If you decide to repair the toilet with plastic panels, do it yourself. Sheathing walls and ceilings with these materials is not at all difficult, and even a non-professional can do it. As a result you will get a large number of advantages, and the finish itself will cost you several times cheaper than using ceramic tiles.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in the bathroom in 15 minutes

What is a plastic lining?

Plastic panels intended for the toilet are a lining that is light in weight and is made of PVC materials. It can be used to decorate both walls and ceilings.

The outer surface of the lining is smooth, and can be matte, glossy and even mirror. A wide range of materials, a variety of color solution, allows you to apply any design to design a bathroom. In this case, the plastic surface can be:

• white color, matte;
• white, glossy;
• with imitation of wood, marble and other expensive finishing materials;
• with a pattern that is applied to the surface using a special film.

Inside, these toilet modules have a porous structure. Their thickness is from 8 to 12 mm, length - from 2.5 to 6 m, and width - from 0.1 to 0.3 m. Such a variety allows you to apply any design when decorating the toilet.

Advantages and disadvantages of this material

Toilet finishing plastic panels allows you to get a lot of benefits:

The main disadvantage of this material is its low resistance to combustion. Most often, plastic is not flammable. But when exposed high temperature or fire, it begins to smolder and melt. In this case, toxic gases are released, which are very dangerous.

Also, finishing the toilet with plastic panels will steal at least 3-4 cm on each side. If there are large irregularities, the width of the room decreases even more. Therefore, this material is not suitable for a bathroom with a small area.

What design solution can be applied to the bathroom?

The design of the room when using plastic modules can be varied. This material can be revetted as all surfaces from the ceiling to the walls, as well as a small part of them. For example, install panels on the wall from the floor to half the height of the wall. On the upper part, you can apply cladding with putty. Thus, the room can be easily cleaned. The lower part, which gets the most dirty, can be easily cleaned with detergents and disinfectants.

You can also use modules that, after installation, form a pattern. In this way, it is easy to create a cozy atmosphere by applying any design of the room. Panels that imitate expensive wood, granite or stone cladding look good. In this case, the design of the bathroom will be very successful.

Necessary materials

Do-it-yourself repair of the toilet with plastic panels is very simple. The design of the room must be thought out in advance, since the choice of specific materials depends on it.

In this case, you need to purchase:

• required amount PVC panels;
• edging elements;
• accessories for decorating the surface;
• slats for creating a frame - wooden, aluminum, plastic;
• dowel;
• self-tapping screws - you need to choose with wide hats at the rate of 2 pieces per 1 running meter of the profile.

It is also necessary to prepare tools that will help to carry out the installation as quickly and correctly as possible. To do this, take a building level, tape measure, jigsaw or hacksaw, screwdriver, drill.

Surface preparation

Before installing PVC modules, it is imperative to remove old finishing materials from the walls and ceiling. This will help increase usable area indoors, which is significantly reduced in the future.

Also be sure to repair the plumbing, sewer system and electrical wiring. Replace old pipes, cables, check the quality of the connecting elements. This will help prolong the life of the finish. In the event that an emergency occurs, it will be necessary to completely dismantle some of the panels, which most often become unsuitable for further use.

To prevent the formation of fungus and mold on the surface of the walls, be sure to treat them with a primer. The design of the room must be thought out in advance, since additional planks must be fixed at the installation site of the washbasin and cabinets.

Frame installation

Making a frame for this design is very simple if you follow the following recommendations:

• When using wooden slats, treat them with an antiseptic solution. This is best done the day before the frame is installed. Treat it outside with a liquid that prevents the formation of fungus, and wait for it to dry.
• Along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 2-3 cm from the ceiling, you need to attach rails or a UD profile. In the latter case, you need to use dowel-nails. Fasten the profile every 0.6-0.7 m.
• In the direction of the floor, fasten the following rails in a horizontal position. Install them every 0.5 m. Attach to the wall in the same way with dowels.
• On top of the crate, install a U-shaped profile in the corners of the room.

Toilet cladding

It is very simple to make a reliable covering from plastic panels. Before installation, cut each element so that its length was 1-1.5 cm less than the height of the room. This shortage of material is compensated for when installing decorative strips.

The lining process consists of the following steps:

• Install the start panel in the right place, while the narrow shelf should be inserted into the profile, which is located in the corner of the room.
• Using self-tapping screws, attach the panel to the frame in the place of a wide strip on the surface of the lining.
• Thus, install all plastic modules.
• Near doorways and in the corners of the room, additionally install finishing strips.

Only after facing the walls, you can proceed with the installation of panels on the ceiling. The installation of the frame in this case is carried out in the same way. At the same time, along the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to attach a special bar for mounting the plinth.

The panels are interconnected using a special lock and self-tapping screws to the frame. In this way, you can do the installation of plastic lining in the toilet with your own hands.

Video: Plastic toilet design and decoration

It is not difficult to organize the decoration of the toilet with plastic panels with your own hands, if you have at least minimal experience installation work. But first, it is worth understanding the features of the material, the rules for installing the frame and other subtleties of the skin. But, following the advice of experts, everyone can independently repair the bathroom.

To decorate the toilet with panels with your own hands, it is enough to know the main technological points. To the special advantages of PVC panels can be attributed:

• convenient and simple installation, which everyone can handle;
• low price, in comparison with other types of cladding, plastic finishing is much cheaper;
• during repairs, alignment of the walls is not required, and this allows you to save money on building materials;
• plastic panels have good waterproofing, which means that you can not be afraid of moisture;
• easy to clean, it will be enough to wipe the panels with a damp cloth from time to time;
• long operational period.

It should be noted that in the event of a breakdown of one element, the structure can be easily dismantled. Thanks to these positive qualities, PVC panels are leaders among all facing materials.

But, despite the large number of advantages, the material has a number negative qualities, which include the following:

• flammability: when ignited, the panels emit compounds harmful to the body;
• it is extremely difficult to work in small rooms, since there is no possibility to turn around;
• subjected to mechanical stress, even a slight blow can cause the bar to break or crack;
• hides a few centimeters of area, so that in small room their use is not recommended.

Plastic panels are very light, they are quick and easy to install. The material is used for wall and ceiling decoration, so they can be used to hide electrical cables, ventilation pipes and defects in the form uneven walls, cracks.

Preparatory work

If the walls are even, then you can lay the material directly on the bearing surface. Although this option is extremely rare, therefore, most often most of the time is spent on installing the frame. Do-it-yourself plastic toilet decoration begins with the installation of the frame, for this you need:

1. First you need to remove old finish to a concrete or brick base. The tiled lining must be removed, if the tile is not removed, then over time it will fall off, but already under the new lining. If the walls are painted and the paint is holding firmly, then it does not need to be beaten off, it will not interfere.
2. Inspect the surface for cracks, if any, they must be embroidered, cleaned of debris, and then filled with a repair compound. Can be done with cement mortar Or use inexpensive tile adhesive.
3. To protect yourself from the appearance of bacteria or fungi under the panels, you need to treat the surface with any antiseptic. Experts recommend doing two impregnations with a time interval of 6 to 12 hours. During this period, the walls just have time to dry well.
4. If it is planned to lay sheets on the ceiling, then pre-stretch the wiring for lighting fixtures. The cable is placed in special protective casings that will protect the wire from moisture. Then they are fixed to the base ceiling with plastic clamps or using wire hangers.

After preparing the walls and ceilings, proceed to the manufacture of the frame. To do this, you can use metal or wooden profiles.

For rooms with high humidity, it is best to use wooden bars, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic. This option is much cheaper than a metal structure.

To mount the frame, you need to do the following:

• the bars on which the plastic panels will be fixed are treated with antiseptic impregnation, then they need to be dried and cut into the required sizes;
• now you should attach the bar to the surface of the wall, drill holes in it with a drill and put marks through them, and after that make sockets for fasteners with a puncher;
• since the plastic panels will be stacked vertically, then load-bearing structure must be mounted in a horizontal position, making a step of 50 centimeters;
• it is best to lay the crate at the height of the knee, belt and shoulder, in which case the plastic sheets will not be damaged during awkward movement;
• plastic dowels are hammered into the nests made, then wooden blocks must be attached to them and fixed with locking screws, moreover, so that the hat is buried in the wood;
• now it is necessary to fix several thick boards on the wall, fix them with anchors;
• after that, you need to mark the exact location of the boards on the drawing, since later it will be possible to attach a mirror, bedside table or shelf to them;
• the ceiling frame is mounted according to the same scheme;
• to lay casings with electrical wiring in the bars, special grooves are cut out required size so that the cable is not pinched.

To disguise sewer pipes, it is necessary to install a vertical beam and fix it on the floor and ceiling with a metal corner. After that, already mount the crate under the plastic panels. In order to have access to the pipeline, it is required to mount a wooden square at the very bottom, and already fix it on it inspection hatch. The installation of a metal profile is carried out according to the same scheme, but it is much more difficult to work with such material, so it is better for beginners to use wood.

Sheathing and finishing

After the frame is assembled, you can proceed directly to the skin. Since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom is usually small, installation will not take much time. To sheathe the structure, it is necessary to act according to the following scheme:

• the starting profile is laid on the corner, moreover, it must be leveled with the help of a building level, and then fixed with glue or self-tapping screws;
• attached around the perimeter ceiling profile, with the help of it vertical and horizontal elements will be connected;
• the first wall panel must be cut in height, this gap will help ensure unhindered temperature deformation;
• now you can insert the element into the start profile and align it vertically;
• fix the sheet to the frame with self-tapping screws, and the upper edge is inserted into the plinth groove;
• the next sheet is inserted into the previous groove, the panels are assembled to the next corner;
• the last sheet is cut lengthwise, if the plastic is soft, then this can be done with a paint knife, if the material is hard, then you can use a fine-toothed file, the panel is inserted into the starting profile;
• according to the same scheme, the entire space of the bathroom is sheathed.

At the very end, holes for built-in lights are cut out and installed decorative skirting boards, which mask the bottom edge of the panels. All gaps and cracks are sealed with moisture-resistant silicone. This completes the lining of the toilet with plastic panels. Self-assembly It's easy if you follow the sequence of steps.

Repairing a toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those who want to make budget repair in the apartment. This method has several advantages. First, you can purchase enough inexpensive material. Secondly, it is very easy to install it yourself, which will save a lot of money on paying for the masters.

Plastic panels - features of choosing a reliable material

Before finishing the toilet, you need to choose high-quality panels. There is a huge range of these products on the market, but not all products meet the requirements of modern quality standards. It can be quite difficult for the buyer to visually determine the reliability and safety of the products offered. So that you do not "run into" defective panels, we will reveal to you a few secrets. They will allow you to choose really high-quality material that will last a long time.

The composition of PVC panels should include additives designed to improve the elasticity of the material. Due to the presence of these components, the products are easily bent and are difficult to accidental mechanical damage. If you are offered plastic on which dents remain from pressing with a finger, then you should refuse such products. This material is not able to last for a long time. In addition, in a year he will lose his original appearance.

To easily check the quality of the material, you should do the following. First, grab the edge of the panel with two fingers and lightly squeeze the product. As a result, the ribs that are inside should not be deformed or bent. In addition, the appearance of dents in the upper and lower parts of the panel is not allowed. Then try to bend the mounting strip of material. It is located on the edge of the product and forms a docking lock. As a result, this part of the material should not break or crack. In high-quality materials, it quickly returns to its previous position, and there are no traces left on the bending lines.

To check, attach the panel to the nose. The product must not emit any unpleasant odors. If you feel a strong chemical smell, then it is better not to use such material for. Most likely, this plastic was created from cheap raw materials or with violations. technological standards production. If you buy these panels, then in the toilet trimmed with them there will be bad smell vapours, hazardous to health.

In stores you can find panels of various widths. In small rooms, it is worth using not too wide products, since after work a large amount of unusable waste will remain. Therefore, in order not to guess with the desired batch of finishes, before you should measure them and calculate the required amount of material. Another important nuance when choosing a product, it is the presence of a certificate from the seller. The document must indicate the country of origin and the compliance of the products with all sanitary and technical standards.

How to buy material and take the necessary measurements?

In order to finish the toilet with plastic panels with your own hands without problems, you need to prepare for work. First of all, take all measurements and buy materials. A mandatory event will also be the preparation of tools and surface treatment. The purpose of taking measurements is to find out how many panels will be needed for the job. It is also important to calculate the number of profiles that will be useful for the design of external and internal corners. In addition, profiles will be needed to mount the panels to the floor and ceiling lines. Often these finishing elements are needed to install doors, windows and cabinets, if such work is also included in the planned repair.

The choice of profiles depends on design idea, the size of the toilet and the technique of installing panels in some areas of the room. As for the base material, its quantity should be 15% more than the measurement result. A certain part will go to trim. Do not exclude cases of improper cutting or accidental damage to the panels.

Remember that you will also need material to install the batten. In most cases, homeowners need to save every centimeter of the apartment, so the toilet has a small area. In this regard, wooden slats or a metal profile with a cross section of 50x20 mm are suitable as a frame. To calculate the number of rails, you need to take into account that the guide battens will be located at a distance of 50–60 cm from each other. In addition, calculate the number of parts of the ceiling frame lathing and decorative box, which will hide the pipes. But this is only if you plan to finish on these parts of the toilet.

In order to fix the frame on the wall surface, you need to purchase dowels of such a length that they can be screwed into the wall by 40–50 mm. To find out the number of fasteners, take into account that their installation step will be 40-45 cm. To fix the panels on the frame, you need to purchase self-tapping screws no more than 20 mm long. If wooden slats are used as battens, then it is better to use 10 mm long staples for fixing. If your toilet has perfectly even walls, then you can not do the crate. In such situations, plastic panels are glued directly to the walls. liquid nails or tile adhesive.

Preparing the room - how to level the walls before finishing?

As is the case with other types repair work, finishing the bathroom with plastic panels requires the necessary tools. Having them at hand, you will not be distracted looking for the right equipment. For work you will need:

• screwdriver and a set of bits to it;
• electric drill or hammer drill;
• drills of different diameters;
• manual or electric jigsaw;
• scissors for working with metal, if a metal profile is used;
• stationery knife;
• hammer;
• square and tape measure;
• marker or pencil;
• stapler and building level.

To prepare the wall surfaces, you will also need a building hair dryer, spatulas, a brush and a primer roller. Special attention should be given to the construction level. It must have a horizontal and vertical pointer. This tool will help to achieve the most even surface of the walls in the toilet. If you are going to specifically buy both a drill and a hammer drill, then you can get by with just one drill. It is important that it has a perforation function. Such a tool will cost a little more than usual, but you will save money on buying a separate hammer drill.

To level the walls in the toilet, you first need to remove all the old finishes. This will help eliminate the appearance of mold and mildew in the space between. To remove old wallpaper or other types of finishes, use a metal spatula. If you need to clean the walls of worn wallpaper, but they have already managed to firmly grasp the surface, then for cleaning you can apply several times to the old finish hot water using a roller for this. You need to remove the material in those places where it began to separate from the wall. If the walls in the toilet were previously painted with paint, then it is not necessary to completely remove it from the surface before repairing. The main thing is to remove the dried composition where it began to flake off.

After cleaning the surfaces on the walls, make markings. This is necessary in order to determine the size and number of battens for the crate. If you chose wooden slats as the last one, then in the next step prepare them for installation. First, they are cut to size, after which they are impregnated with an antiseptic composition. It is best to do this on the balcony or in any other room where there is a draft. While the slats are not dry, a primer can be applied to the walls and ceiling of the toilet. It is best to apply 2 layers of this composition. If you use a white primer, then marking the walls should be done only after the material has dried on the surface.

Making a crate - an option for uneven surfaces

Toilet finishing PVC panels- this is one of last stages indoor renovation. First of all, you will need to fix the guide rails. This should be done only on dry, even walls. Before installation, drill holes in the rails, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameters of the dowels. After that, the rails are applied to the markup. Insert a drill into each of the holes in the rail and mark the drilling locations in the wall. Then the rail is laid aside, and the place marked in the wall is drilled to the length of the dowel.

To fix the rail, it must be attached to the markup again so that the holes in it and the wall coincide. After that, we take dowels with screwed screws and, in turn, drive them into the walls through wooden guides. All elements of the crate are installed in a similar way.

Before you sheathe the walls in the toilet with plastic panels, you need to make a decorative box. It is made of a metal profile and serves as a place where pipes and other communications will be hidden. To make the structure, install vertical racks under the ceiling so that they are located on the sides of sewer riser. After that, the vertical elements are fastened with horizontal guides. To hide all the pipes, the frame of the box must pass along the sides of the communications so that after installing the panels they are not visible.

Installation of panels - how to sheathe the walls with plastic yourself?

Next, we proceed to the decoration of the walls. It is best to start from the far corner. All vertical panels that are installed to repair the toilet must be leveled with a level. Only then can they be screwed on. Remember that the correct position of the first panel determines how evenly the other products will be screwed!

If one or more walls in your toilet are perfectly even, then it makes no sense to mount the crate on them. In such a situation, it is better to glue the panels directly to the surface. To do this, we take liquid nails and apply them in a thin layer to the wall covering. After that, we apply a plastic lining and, until the glue has dried, we align each of the panels. After you complete the wall decoration, carefully place the material on the decorative box. To do this, take the first panel and apply it to the frame. We mark the places of cutting and shorten the product along the indicated lines.

Next, we fasten the lining with self-tapping screws and repeat the procedure with the rest of the material. In the corners and joints, use special ones that will make the finish more accurate. If finishing your toilet with plastic means installing the material on the ceiling, in this case, do not forget to make holes in the panels for the illuminators. If you are using spotlights, then you need to cut out circles, the diameter of which will be the same as the diameter of the lamps. If you have a small ceiling, then the hole should be of such a size that you can put the wires you need to connect the light bulb into it.

Plastic panels are becoming more and more popular due to the combination of their positive qualities that suit most consumers. These include aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, the possibility of easy cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finish is especially well suited for places requiring strict sanitary norms such as bathroom and toilet. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Finishing the toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are starting repairs, but at the same time are faced with a limited "budget". There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material belongs to the public price category, its installation can be done on your own. Absence of necessity additional costs at the invitation of craftsmen is also an important advantage of plastic panels over other types of finishes.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material is used in great demand It is commercially available in a wide variety. At the same time, the assortment of stores may contain both high-quality products and products of not particularly conscientious manufacturers. Just looking at the plastic panels "with the naked eye", it is quite difficult to determine their quality, therefore, when choosing this material, it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will meet the declared characteristics and service life.

• The material used for the manufacture of finishing panels must contain additives that improve the elasticity of products. Thanks to them, the panels are relatively easy to bend and it is quite difficult to accidentally damage them with a careless movement. If the plastic is brittle and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are poor-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during operation.

- Try pressing on the edge of the panel by grabbing it with two fingers. Internal stiffeners must not bend or deform, and visible dents are not allowed on the surface.

A high-quality panel, when squeezed with your fingers, should not bend, and the internal stiffeners should not deform

- It is necessary to try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in high-quality panels, this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a trace along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

- It is necessary to carefully examine the outer plane of the panel. Across upper layer plastic should not be translucent or protrude internal stiffeners, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

• Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to refuse such panels immediately. Surely the manufacturer, in order to reduce the cost of production as much as possible, used low-quality raw materials or violates established technology production. During operation, such a finish will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of residents of an apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be attributed to low-quality products.
• PVC panels are produced in various widths. For small room the toilet is unprofitable to purchase too wide panels, as there will be a lot of waste. However, a lot depends on the specific dimensions of both the panels themselves and the toilet, on the need to install a decorative box to hide communications, and on other specific conditions. If the owner has a spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

• When choosing finishing material it is recommended without any hesitation to request a certificate from the seller, in which the manufacturer is indicated and the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards is noted. If the retail outlet personnel cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, then right decision will go to another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before carrying out the installation itself, you will need to take measurements and purchase necessary materials, prepare the necessary tools, perform some measures for processing wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to measure the space. The goal is to determine the area of ​​the surfaces to be trimmed, the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for registration of internal and external corners;

- for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and the floor;

- for mounting cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if it is intended by the finishing plan.

The choice of these profile elements will depend on design idea, the size of the room, as well as the technique of installing panels in certain areas.

The finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, is recommended to be purchased 15% more than the measurements of the area showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

• You will need material for mounting the crate. Since the toilet usually has small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of rails is easy to calculate in place, based on the height and width of the walls, bearing in mind that the guide battens should be located in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition, the elements of the crate are calculated separately for the decorative box that hides the pipes (if it is conceived), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there as well).

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide crates will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

• To fix the plastic panels on the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15 ÷ 20 mm long (depending on the type of crate - for wood or metal). When installing panels wooden slats often used and construction stapler with staples 10÷12 mm.
• In the case when the walls are perfectly even (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without crates at all. Panels in such conditions can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as "liquid nails" or even one of the tile adhesive compositions.
• If used wooden crate, then it will be useful to purchase a tool for pre-treatment of structural parts, which will protect them from decay.
• You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces, reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests in closed space between the main wall (floor) and the finishing material.

Assembly tools

To carry out preparatory and finishing works you will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

• with a set of bits.
• Hammer drill or electric drill with punching function.
• Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
• Electric or manual jigsaw.
• Scissors for metal, if a metal profile will be used in the design.
• Hammer.
• Construction (stationery) knife.
• Roulette and construction square.
• Pencil and marker for marking.
• Construction stapler.
• Building level with vertical and horizontal pointer.
• For the preparation of wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a building hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying a primer.

When everything you need for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

The preparation of the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

• So that under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold spots is not created, it is recommended (if any) and exfoliated paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from wallpaper, and they are securely fixed on the surface, then it is recommended to apply them with a roller warm water, and you need to do this several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin to remove them.

• It is not necessary to completely remove the paint, the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off the wall surface.
• Further, the marking of the cleaned walls is carried out and at the same time the number and height or length of the lathing laths are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the beam under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. In the case of a horizontal installation of the finishing material, the frame guides are fixed vertically to the wall. Necessarily, the details of the crate must be installed at the bottom of the wall, 20 ÷ 30 mm from the floor and along the upper part of the wall along the line of fixing the crate under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

• If the crate will be mounted from wood, then the frame slats are prepared as the next step. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces must be processed, including the end sides, that is, slices. After applying the composition, they must be left to dry completely. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is air access, and the space is somewhat larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet.

• While the wooden frame elements are drying on the balcony, you can do antiseptic treatment of the walls and ceiling of the toilet. Priming is carried out using a roller with a fluffy nozzle or a wide brush. In hard-to-reach places, a narrower brush may be required.

The primer absorbs and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition to guarantee and wait for them to dry completely.

primer prices

primer

• The primer can be transparent or opaque. If a thick white composition is chosen, then the marking of the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
• If during the repair it is planned to replace the toilet bowl, then it is more expedient to dismantle the old one before fixing the crate.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fixing the crate, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is that the guides are always fixed to flat sections of the walls, and only after that the vertical and horizontal frames around areas of passage of communications, as well as protruding corners. In laths (beams), at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other, with the help of electric drill and wood drills, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Further, a beam with holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through a hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a drill for concrete marks the place of attachment. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After that, the timber is attached back to the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the beam can be leveled.
	Next, the beam is leveled at the building level and the remaining attachment points to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are hammered into them. Similarly, on flat sections of the wall, all load-bearing elements crates.
	If distortions are found during marking on the wall surface, then the crate is leveled with the help of additional linings installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms in the upper part of the wall there is a window for natural light. If it is not planned to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the frame parts (platbands) are dismantled from it, and frame guides can be fixed on the wave frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration shows well how the guide battens should be fixed on the even walls of this small room.
	Probably, in order not to violate the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and laying of ceramic floor tiles. So, after fixing the elements of the crate, the old coating is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a puncher with a specific nozzle in the form of a chisel. Together with the tile, the solution on which it was laid is also removed. After cleaning from the floor construction debris, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible from various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next step is to erect a crate for a decorative box around a vertically passing sewer riser, as well as a sewer pipe running along the back wall of the toilet. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short pieces of timber, connected at right angles, and fixed on straight sections of the walls of the crate.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be erected from a metal profile. Vertical racks are installed and rigidly fastened together by horizontal jumpers. The design is displayed in the form of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	Jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to the bar fixed on the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from a vertical bar, which is fastened together by horizontal lintels and connected to a crate fixed on the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to fix the finishing material on wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are mounted in them. The horizontal crate is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another version of the design of the box from a metal profile and timber. In this case, the beam is a material that stiffens the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. It can be cut and constructed from it into a more compact box by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections are required at angles other than right.
	The illustration shows what this version of the box frame looks like without decorative panels. This design is well suited for sheathing, in which a fitting corner will not be used - the panel will smoothly go around horizontally installed elements metal crate.
	Horizontal box frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, it is best to do it together with the entire crate. However, some craftsmen work on their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been fixed to the main frame.
	This frame is made of a wooden beam, necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is a frame on which the decorative trim will be fixed.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture can appear during temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden bars, so wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and bounded by horizontal and base vertical frame, you can proceed to tiling the surface with tiles. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid out tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Further, according to the marking made, the tile is laid on the tile adhesive. To maintain a single width of the seams, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying a tiled floor, its surface must be constantly monitored building level to keep it in the horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with grouted tile joints. The floor is over - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before starting installation, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if any).
	It is more difficult to match panels with individual fragments of a pattern, the parts of which are located on different panels and, when joined, are assembled into a whole element. In order for the finish to look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine the floral or geometric ornament, as well as the border lines.
	Installation of trim on the crate can be carried out using fittings corner profiles or without using them. Starting guides are mandatory in any case, since without them general form finishes will look sloppy. Are fixed plastic profiles to the crate beam using stapler staples. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of the finishing material, and therefore some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows the option of joining two panels in the corner of the room, which are perfectly matched to each other without the use of corners.
	If a decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame crate of the box, is first fixed on “liquid nails”, and then screwed on with 15 ÷ 20 mm self-tapping screws with wide caps.
	Installation of panels starts from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in a row, before its final fixing, is carefully verified according to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the crate beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is leveled. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the rest of the elements of the crate. The evenness and accuracy of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has a completely flat surface, and the panels will be mounted on it without a crate, then they can be glued on “liquid nails” or on cement-based tile adhesive.
	"Liquid" nails are applied to the wall in strips 10 ÷ 15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a comb height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If the whole panel falls on the junction of the lathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to the previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process must be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting exactly along the measured lines of the excess part of the panel (without a real fit “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the crate.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to the "liquid nails". Another option - it is masked by the so-called outer corner molding, which has special grooves. On them internal surfaces glue is applied, and then the edges of the joined panels are inserted into the grooves.
	The pipes located on the side walls are closed with short sections of panels. Often, craftsmen prefer to close them with sliding doors, which will be discussed later.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then it is impossible to close them completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - this is either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and when emergency, it can be eliminated without disassembling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there may be two or more) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free circulation.
	For the convenience of moving such sashes, they are equipped with ordinary internal plastic doorknobs, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	A decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be sheathed with plastic lining panels of the desired length. To make the finish look neat, it is glued to the lower beam of the front frame, and then the starting molding is fixed with a stapler and staples.
	The next step is to cut out a cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then glue "liquid" nails is applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, it must first be installed and “packed” flexible eyeliner(hose) for drain tank, and threaded through the hole in the lid.
	Further, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for facing the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single canvas, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the exit of the sewer pipe pipe to be connected to the toilet. After that, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, a window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. From the extreme left or right panel, the protruding edge of the lock is cut off so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	In the next step, the panels are installed in the starting bottom bar, screwed to wooden elements boxes. The junction of the horizontal and vertical panels is covered with a decorative corner, which is glued to the "liquid" nails. After that, a finished frame with a door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it should be said about the design of the vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case auxiliary corners are not required, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small segment of it installed on the racks of the metal frame of the box.
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, the sides of the box are removed exact dimensions, that is, their width is measured. Then these parameters are transferred to the back side of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. From the marked points, 15 mm are measured on both sides, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel, along which cuts are made using a clerical knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, and the front remains intact. After that, together with the ribs, the cut strip is completely removed, while on reverse side 3÷4 mm of ribs are left on the front panel. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully, without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	After such cutouts are made, the panel will easily bend along the marked lines. After fixing it on the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints and corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high quality panels are selected.
	Another point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, mounted on top of the masking tube of the rear box structure, then in order for the cutout to be done neatly, an exact template of a smooth rotation of the corner is first adjusted from the paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box cover will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cutout is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling sheathing with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after the wall surface has been covered with plastic panels. The crate can be fixed directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the beam, fixed to the walls, will become the basis of the false ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the elements of the crate for wall cladding. It is fixed along the top line decorative finishes walls.
	In a toilet room, common for city apartments, a similar design may look like this illustration.
	The next step is to apply “liquid” nails to the lower part of the beam, on which the starting profile is glued, into which the sheathing panels will be installed. The starting profile is fixed on three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of the panels will begin. This can be both the back wall and the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the timber using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	When the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin to prepare and install the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the desired size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting spike) is cut off so that the panel fits snugly, over its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with the ends into the side profiles, and the side with the cut spike - into the one that is fixed on the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the lathing bars with wide-headed screws.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed fixtures, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	In order to make holes in the ceiling lining for installation spotlights, a crown drill is used, having a diameter corresponding to the size of their legs. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the luminaires in the sockets cut out in the panels, they are connected to the power supply cable.
	Lighting devices are installed in the holes of the plastic trim, and then assembled into a single circuit. Connection to the power supply should be made only after the installation of the entire finish has been completed.
	The problem is always the installation of the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own way of its installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it across the width of the already remaining distance - by 10 ÷ 15 mm. Then, on the edge, which will be fixed on the frame beam, the starting profile is put on. Glue "liquid nails" is applied to the timber. After that, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and the ends are inserted into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to the strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to the general electrical system of the apartment. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if there is not enough experience in electrical work, is best entrusted to an experienced specialist.
	If we are talking about a toilet, then a few words should be said about the installation and fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed right next to back wall or to a box mounted along it. In addition, during the preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe is opposite the outlet pipe of the toilet.
	Further, on the tile with a marker, the exact location of the toilet is marked, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step, the toilet bowl is temporarily removed to the side, and holes are drilled along the marked marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60 ÷ 70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are hammered into the holes in the floor. Installed in place of the toilet. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at the same stage it is necessary to immediately dock the outlet of the toilet bowl with the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramic from the metal. If you do not install the gaskets, then when tightening the screws, the toilet leg may crack.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the fixing screws, as this will create stress in the material, and it may crack or even chip over time. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fasteners are closed with special camouflage caps, which are usually included in the kit that is attached to the toilet by the manufacturer.
	After fixing and attaching the toilet bowl to the sewer pipe, assembling the drain tank and connecting a flexible water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is a tricky business.

The table above short description the installation of the toilet bowl was given only to demonstrate the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, things can be a bit more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules of all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication of our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the best solution

About the ceiling in this article was also discussed only in an overview. This is because detailed information about it is placed in other article of a portal which is specially devoted to this question.

For those who carefully read this publication, we hope it became clear what to finish the toilet plastic clapboard- not so easy, so it is quite possible to do it on your own, saving some amount. The main thing is not to rush, and always adhere to the folk wisdom "measure seven times - cut once." As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, outwardly beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment