Garden stove from the bathtub. How to make a stove from an old cast-iron bathtub with your own hands How to make a stove from a cast-iron bathtub

Cast iron is an ideal material for making your own personal plot build a stove from a cooking bath various dishes. But since cast iron can only be processed in industrial conditions, to make something from it with your own hands you should use ready-made cast iron products, for example, old bath.

Advantages of cast iron:

resistant to high temperatures;
has a high heat capacity;
not subject to corrosion.

Make a stove from cast iron bath quite difficult, this process requires attention and patience, since the bath itself is strong, but has a fragile structure.

Making from an old bathtub

This type of oven consists of two halves connected to each other. old bath, located on top of each other. Therefore, you will first have to cut the bathtub in half.

Attention! Before you begin, remember that cast iron is a very fragile material, and any, even minor damage, can ruin it and make further processing impossible.

To divide the bathtub into two equal parts, it is best to use a grinder, drawing a cutting line in advance and accurately measuring the distance to the edges. Only after this can you carefully begin cutting the bathtub. Stock up on several cutting discs, as one may not be enough.

The most important thing to remember is: take your time. If you want to achieve an even and smooth cut edge, there is no need to rush anywhere.

Main stage: installation of the furnace

Most reliable way fix the stove and give it stability - . It must be massive enough to ensure the immobility of the entire structure.

After fixing the lower part of the furnace, a sheet of steel about 6-10 mm thick is placed on it.

But keep in mind that the speed at which the oven warms up will depend on its thickness. It is this that will serve as a separation between the firebox and the oven, as well as hob. You also need to make a hole in it for the chimney, which will be welded to it later.

Sooner or later, there still comes a time when you have to replace the bathtub with a new one, and an old cast-iron vessel, still made in the Soviet Union, is usually sent to a landfill and to a ferrous metal collection point. However, there is no need to rush - it can be used a second time, giving “ new life" Some owners of private houses make ponds out of bathtubs, others use them as garden benches, dividing the bowl in half lengthwise, finishing the edges and adding legs to each half.

But some craftsmen can make a stove from a cast-iron bathtub with their own hands, sawing it across. Such an original stove can be installed in a garden plot, or its cast iron parts can be used for the combustion chamber and cooking chamber of a conventional stove large sizes or for arranging a fireplace.

If you have skills in working with plumbing tools, without which this process You can’t do without it; you can save money on some materials for building a stove.

Most often, an old cast iron bathtub is used to make garden barbecue ovens, which at correct design become helpers in preparing food for the entire warm season. Cast iron has a high heat capacity, so a chamber made of it will help not only prepare everyday dishes, but also bake bread products, as well as make preparations for the winter.

Materials and tools for work

To make such a stove, you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials. Since sawing a cast-iron bathtub, especially a Soviet-made one, when they really didn’t spare the metal, is not so easy, and “disposable” Chinese appliances may not be able to cope with such a task. For this work you need a reliable German or Russian tool.

Tools:

A small angle grinder - “grinder”.

The grinder must be reliable - low quality tool may not even cope with such a task

Circles for cutting metal, 1 mm thick and 125 mm in diameter, you will need 3÷4 of them, depending on the thickness of the cast iron.
Grinding wheels - for processing cut sides of metal, files.
Electric drill with a metal drill Ø 9 or 11 m (depending on the selected bolts). It is necessary for drilling holes in the sides of the bathtub to connect its two parts with bolts.
Trowel and spatula for masonry and finishing work.
Construction gun for sealant.
Plumb and building level.
Hammer.

Prices for angle grinders

Materials:

The cast iron bath itself.
Sheet metal, at least 5 mm thick.
Two-burner cast iron hob. Instead, a regular metal sheet can be laid.
Brick for building walls that will cover the lower part of the bathtub, which will be the combustion chamber, on three or even four sides.
Grate placed in the firebox.
Clay and sand for masonry mortar.
Ready-made heat-resistant glue mixture for finishing walls outside with ceramic tiles.
Heat-resistant sealant (material -).
Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening the structure.
Metal mesh “chain-link” for reinforcing clay mortar laid on top part bathtub, which will act as a cooking chamber.
Ceramic tiles (possibly broken) for finishing.
A metal corner, which may be required for the manufacture of brackets - for installing a grate separating the firebox and the blower.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of about 110 ÷ 120 mm.

To ensure personal safety, work should be carried out in safety glasses, a respirator and construction gloves.

Prices for heat-resistant sealant

heat resistant sealant

Cutting a cast iron bathtub

The most difficult and responsible process in making a stove is, perhaps, cutting a cast-iron bathtub, and many even believe that it is almost impossible to carry out this process.

Perhaps the most important stage is a high-quality cut of a massive cast-iron bathtub

Masters who have carried out this work more than once recommend doing it as follows:

If cutting the bathtub will be carried out indoors, then first you need to carry out preparatory work, since cast iron dust, flying in all directions, can damage objects and things contained in it. Therefore, the room needs to be cleared of them. If the apartment is being renovated and the door from the bathroom is removed, then the opening must be closed plastic film or an unnecessary cloth (best of all, dampened), because cast iron dust is quite greasy, and it will be extremely difficult to wash it off walls and furniture. It is better to take care in advance that it does not get into living quarters.
Next, the future cut is marked on the bathtub, since it needs to be divided exactly in half.
The bathtub is covered with enamel, a layer 1.5÷2.5 mm thick, and first of all you need to cut it along the entire line of the future cut, otherwise chips will form at the edge of the coating.
Then, the cast iron itself is carefully sawed, using small cuts of 100÷120 mm. Moreover, it is recommended to make the cut under small angle so that the reverse motion of the disc does not peel off the enamel. You need to make sure that the grinder does not overheat - if necessary, interrupt the work and give the device time to cool down.
Having cut half of the bathtub, you must put supports under each of the future halves, for example, from stacks of bricks. Otherwise, at the final stage of work, the halves of the bathtub along the sawn line may close together, pinch or even rupture the disk (which is extremely dangerous) or damage the tool.
Having a quality tool, you can do this kind of work in about an hour.

If the bathtub is taken to a summer cottage in its entirety, then it is best to cut it outside, turning it upside down in advance. In this position, it will be much easier to carry out work.

You may be interested in information about what to consider when choosing

How to make a garden stove from a cast iron bathtub?

When the cut bathtub is delivered to the installation site, you can proceed to the process of constructing the stove.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	At the chosen location garden plot a foundation is laid for the installation of the furnace. It is necessary, since the structure will be quite heavy, and without solid foundation will constantly shrink, which means the entire structure may become deformed. Then the lower part of the bath is placed on a finished, well-dried foundation. If it is necessary for the stove to be a little higher, then it is raised on supports and also secured to the concrete mortar. While the concrete solution under the bottom of the bathtub gains strength and matures, you can start preparing the remaining structural elements. It should be noted here that the stove can be made in two versions, and each master chooses the one that is more acceptable to himself. In the first option, the facade of the stove is completely decorated with metal walls, and in the other case, the firebox and ash pan are covered with a brick wall into which cast iron or metal doors are built. After the solution has hardened under the lower part of the furnace, it is best to immediately attach brackets for installing the grate to the walls of the lower half-cylinder. This structural element separates the firebox and the ash pan, so it must be raised above the bottom of the bath by about 150 mm. Metal corners are attached to the marked walls of the bathtub, on which the grate is laid.
	To assemble the furnace structure, a metal sheet is cut out, which will completely cover the lower combustion chamber. The chimney pipe can be welded into a metal sheet and passed through the cooking chamber, that is, the upper part of the bath, to the outside. To cut a hole for a pipe in cast iron, small holes are first drilled along the marked contour of the circle, which are then carefully joined together with a grinder, and then the resulting opening is brought to the desired configuration with a file. Or you can choose another option, less labor-intensive - installing a chimney pipe through back wall ovens. In this case, the pipe will have to be connected to the bathtub opening intended for the drain-overflow system.
	The next step is to coat the furnace part of the furnace along the contour with a fire-resistant sealant and cover it with a sheet of metal with a chimney pipe installed in it. Some craftsmen make a cutout in a metal sheet the right size and install a cast iron, more heat-intensive, hob on it.
	Next, you need from above metal sheet install the second part of the bathtub, which has a hole for the pipe. Before its installation, the sheet of metal in places of future contact with the side of the bathtub is also coated with sealant. It turns out that the upper part is put on the pipe, and then the chimney is increased to a height of 1000÷2500 mm, depending on the openness of the space in which the structure is installed.
	The next step is to twist the upper and lower parts of the bathtub, as well as the metal sheet installed between them, using bolts with a diameter of 8÷10 mm. To do this, through holes are drilled in the sides of the bathtub with a pitch of 150÷200 mm, through which all the elements assembled into a single structure are fastened together.
	In this figure you can see how the structure should look from the side after it is fastened.
	Here is a view of the cast iron stove body from the facade and it is clearly visible how the chimney pipe should be installed in the metal sheet and in the “ceiling” of the combustion chamber.
	Then, the combustion and ash chambers are separated by a grate. The grate is placed on metal corners fixed to the walls. But, in principle, it can be placed in a cylindrical chamber without brackets - if a suitable size is chosen that provides clearance at the bottom point of about 150 mm.
	Next, you can move on to masonry work. As mentioned above, walls can be erected only on three sides of the structure - on the sides and back, or along the entire perimeter of the cast-iron chambers. First, the masonry line is marked along the foundation, and then the walls are laid out.
	If on the front side the firebox and the ash pan are closed with a brick wall, then the blower door is mounted in the wall at the level of the bottom of the lower part of the bath, and the firebox door is mounted at a level just above the grate.
	Having folded the walls to the level of the cooking chamber, it is necessary to expand them inward so that the brick fits closely to the outside of the bath. Otherwise, the stove will not only look sloppy, but the heat created in the firebox will very quickly be blown out by the draft.
	In this option, to close the cooking chamber, which can also serve as an oven, a damper is made from a metal sheet. This structural element must close the oven as tightly as possible, otherwise baking bread or pie in it will be problematic. In order for the shutter to tightly close the camera, you need to secure it in front of the latter metal corner. The distance between it and the front cut of the bathtub should be 1÷2 mm greater than the thickness of the metal sheet of the door. The damper handle must be protected from overheating, otherwise there will be burns, so most often its gripping part is made of wood.
	The second design option for the front part is to cover the fuel part of the stove with a metal sheet, in which a hole is cut for installing the combustion door. To design the cooking chamber, a shaped element of the desired shape is cut out of the same metal sheet, which is fixed with outside to the walls of the cast iron container using corners. It should be noted that this method of closing the furnace chambers is more labor-intensive and less effective than the first, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to save money by using metal instead of brick.
	After the lower combustion part of the stove is partially or completely covered with brickwork, you can proceed to insulating the cooking chamber. Since clay mortar has low thermal conductivity and adheres well to surfaces, it is perfect for creating a “fur coat” for the top of the stove. To do this, prepare a thick and plastic clay mixture with the addition of sifted sand, in approximate proportions of 1:2 or 1:3, depending on the fat content of the clay. Sometimes, in order to make the hardened solution crack less after drying, a little lime is added to it. While the solution is infused, the external cast iron surface the cooking section is tightened metal mesh“chain-link” with cells 15÷20 mm - it reinforces the insulating layer well, and will also help to delay the solution until it hardens on a fairly smooth surface. The mesh is fixed to the brickwork located on the sides and back of the combustion chamber. Then, a clay solution is applied on top of the mesh. You can lay it in two layers, the first of which does not need to be smoothed to perfection, and the second is leveled using a trowel moistened with water, a wide spatula or a trowel. In total, the thickness of the layer after drying should be approximately 50÷70 mm.
	When the stove is ready and insulated, it needs to be given the most aesthetic appearance possible, that is, to make it not only a functional appliance, but also decorative decoration landscape design. Some plot owners prefer to leave the brickwork in natural form, and cover the clay “coat” with whitewash in several layers.
	Another option would be to finish the entire structure with ceramic tiles. Moreover, for this case, leftovers and even scraps from tile materials of different colors are suitable, and this will help significantly save on finishing. If you break the tiles into small pieces, they will make an excellent original mosaic. Sometimes finishing is carried out and natural stone, cut into plates 10÷12 mm thick. The finishing material should be laid on a special heat-resistant composition.
	The result is an excellent stove in which you can cook every day in the summer, saving electricity or gas. Moreover, food cooked in an oven is always more aromatic and tasty than food cooked on a gas or electric stove.

Thus, by building a stove from an old bathtub, you can get several benefits at once:

Attach old thing with maximum benefit.
Decorate your landscape design with an exclusive and, most importantly, very functional accessory.
Save on building materials, and later - on fuel (energy source) when cooking.
Get the opportunity to cook a variety of not only tasty, but also healthy dishes every day.

You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions

How to reuse an old cast iron bathtub?

In addition to a barbecue stove for a summer cottage, an old cast-iron bathtub can also be used to make several other useful things.

Part of a cast iron bathtub will make an excellent fireplace insert. The convenience of this use is that there is no need to make complex semicircular shapes of the hearth out of brick. To build a neat fireplace with a firebox that has an arched vault, you will have to make a template from boards or plywood, and then perform complex manipulations of lining it with brick. The cut-off part of the old bathtub already has the required form, moreover, capable of easily supporting the weight of the masonry. All that remains is to make a smoke exhaust hole in its “ceiling” and line the cast-iron firebox brickwork, and then decorate the outside with a fireplace portal.

You can also make a combustion chamber for a sauna stove from a sawn cast iron bath. In this case, it is installed in the same way as when making a fireplace - with the dome up. Part of the bathtub is installed on concrete base, located in the steam bath, and the edge where the bathtub section is located is built into the wall and taken to another room, from where the stove will be fired. Then, the cut hole is covered with a brick wall into which the combustion and blower doors are installed.

In the steam room, along the entire perimeter of the bathtub, at a distance of 80–100 mm from it, a wall is also erected, the height of which should be equal to the height of the cast-iron container. Next, the entire resulting space around the bathtub and the brick wall is filled with stones, which will warm up while the stove is heating and provide the necessary heat to the steam room.

Another use for old cast iron bathtubs is to make outdoor furniture that is reliable and durable and will last for decades. By carefully cutting the bathtub lengthwise, you can get a comfortable “sofa” that can be installed in a gazebo or near a barbecue stove. In this case, you will get a whole set for decorating the landscape design of your garden plot. This “sofa” is not afraid of rain, snow, high and low temperatures. It does not require special care - just wipe it with a damp and then dry cloth. The smooth surfaces of the sofa are easy to paint, both inside and outside, and sewing soft pillows, you can relax on it not only while sitting, but also lying down, stretching out to your full height.

In addition to “sofas,” you can also make two comfortable “armchairs” from any bathtub by cutting it across. By equipping such “chairs” with beautiful legs, you can get an exclusive and almost eternal thing. The only drawback of cast iron “furniture” is that it heavy weight, since moving it from place to place will be problematic.

Some craftsmen manage to make a set out of a bathtub, consisting of a designer chair and an original coffee table with a built-in lamp or even a floor lamp.

Most often, old cast-iron bathtubs transported to suburban areas are used as containers for constructing an artificial pond, which will certainly become an excellent decoration for the area. The bowl is installed in a prepared pit, to which a waste pipe is connected, and its ground part decorated to the taste of the dacha owners.

Another use case is artificial pond in the garden plot

In this case, you will not have to cut the bathtub, and the labor intensity of the work will consist only in earthworks, lowering the container into the pit and connecting it to the drain.

You might be interested in information about how it works out

Russian summer residents very often surprise with their ingenuity, and seemingly completely worn out old things on their plots get a “second life.” Perhaps, after studying the presented options, someone will have the desire and inspiration to come up with their own model of a stove or other thing that is useful in dacha conditions. There will be slaves if such an inventor shares his achievements on the pages of our portal.

Video: a clear example of constructing a garden stove from an old bathtub

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 13.01.2016

When it's time to replace your bathtub, don't rush to throw it away. A stove made from a cast iron bathtub will be a worthy continuation of the life of the old Soviet plumbing element.

Advantages

The material from which the bathtub is poured deserves special attention. Cast iron has always differed from steel in its ability to retain heat at water procedures. Over the years, this property has not changed. Due to its good thermal conductivity, an old cast-iron bathtub is often used in the construction of a stove.

Cast iron is ideal for creating a stove

Cast iron products do not have an expiration date. They are not subject to corrosion and have high strength. It accumulates and releases heat well. Today industrial enterprises They produce fireboxes and grates from cast iron, because they do not burn out. We will simply use old material for new purposes. The only drawback of cast iron is its fragility. It is important to remember this when performing any work with this heavy material.

Video “Stove from a cast iron bath”

From this video you will learn how to make a stove from a cast iron bathtub with your own hands.

What can it be used for?

This material is used in the construction of stoves for various purposes:

For a bath or sauna. When turned upside down, it will serve as a firebox (stove).
For the garden, two transversely cut halves are used: the lower one as a firebox, the upper one as a place for cooking food.
For small room made in the form of folded two halves will be a good fireplace.
Barbecue using one half of the bathtub, bottom down.

Preparatory stage

To make a stove from an old bathtub, you will need the following materials:

the bath itself;
Red brick;
cement, sand, clay;
crushed stone;
steel sheet thickness of at least 4 mm;
lattice or perforation;
finished door with frame and hinges for the firebox;
steel pipe for chimney;
boards for formwork;
roofing felt or polyethylene for waterproofing.

The cast iron bath for the stove needs to be sawed in half

Necessary tool to perform work:

shovel, trowel, spatula;
metalworking tools;
electric drill with drills;
grinder with high-quality cutting discs;
measuring and marking tools;
mounting gun for working with sealant;
welding machine.

In preparation for work, it will be necessary to transport the old bathtub to the place where the stove is manufactured. Considering its large weight and the need to cut it in half, it would be more correct to make the cut before transportation.

Correct cut

The material of the font, which is to be sawed in half, is very fragile. Therefore, we must take this stage of work very responsibly:

Turn the bathtub upside down and secure it in a stable position.
Mark the cutting line taking into account the width of the cutting tool.
Slowly, strictly according to the markings, make an incision along the entire line. This will destroy protective layer enamel, and when cut, it will protect the cut end of the cast-iron font from chipping.
Carefully, slowly, taking pauses for the tool and the cast iron being processed to cool, we will cut the bath in half. When carrying out such work, it is important to remember safety measures: use safety glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage.

It is advisable to install such a heavy building on monolithic foundation

Technological process

Now that raw material ready, define design features the furnace being built, the installation location, and we begin construction.

Creating a foundation and installing sheets

To build a furnace, the foundation can be made as a strip by digging a trench around the perimeter future design. But given the large weight of the font and the bricks with which the outer part will be laid, it would be better to make a monolithic foundation.

Step-by-step instruction:

Let's mark the selected location. The marking boundaries should be 10–15 cm larger than the area of the future structure.
We will dig a pit to a depth of 30–40 cm.
Let's execute the device sand and gravel base. To do this, cover the bottom evenly with crushed stone, then with sand. Let's moisten and compact all this.
We will build formwork around the perimeter of the pit. The height of the future foundation is no more than 30 cm from the ground.
Using scrap metal, we reinforce the internal cavity of the pit. We tie with wire hardware inside the pit.
Fill the inner cavity of the pit with concrete. Using the level rule we do upper layer horizontal.
Let the foundation dry completely.

After pouring concrete into the foundation, you need to let it dry for several days.

While the frame hardens, we will select the required sheet profile for the partition. Its thickness must be at least 4 mm. The main requirement for a sheet is its straightness. If it has any defects, it will be impossible to install the upper part of the stove evenly.

Apply the sheet to the outline of the upper part of the sawn bathtub and draw it. Let's cut out the future partition. Mark and cut a hole for the chimney pipe. It is placed opposite the drain hole of the second half of the font.

After the foundation hardens, we will prepare the installation site. To do this, we will lay out several brick stops that will support the side walls of the bathtub. Let's install the font on the foundation. For the bottom of the oven, you must use the half that does not have a drain hole. If the bathtub is not very stable, then we will put temporary supports around the perimeter. Let's make them from timber.

Before installing the sheet, it is necessary to degrease the surfaces that will be in contact. After this, you need to apply sealant to the upper surface of the bathtub. The sealant used must be heat resistant. The use of other adhesives will compromise the tightness of the joint. It is this surface that will be exposed to high temperatures.

Chimney pipe

We have already cut a hole in the steel sheet for the chimney. Now let's do the same in the bathroom. Considering the high strength and fragility of cast iron, this work is no less important than cutting:

Around the drain hole we will mark the diameter of the future chimney. On a steel sheet, this size corresponded to the diameter of the pipe. In the upper half of the stove, a hole for the chimney is cut out 1–2 cm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe.
We carefully drill holes along the intended circle line, pausing to allow the cutting surfaces to cool. Drilling should be done as tightly as possible.
Slowly, using a good quality small diameter cutting disc, connect the holes with slits.
Use a file to clean out the unevenness of the cut line.

It is important to cut the hole for the chimney as carefully as possible

Now let's weld the pipe to the sheet. The length of the pipe must exceed the structure of the stove assembly by at least 1 m. When carrying out welding work, we control the verticality of the future chimney. It is important to remember safety measures: use a working machine, protective clothing and special glasses or a welder’s shield.

Before installing the second half of the font, degrease the joint surfaces and apply heat-resistant sealant. Lift the top half upside down over the chimney and place it in this position on a steel sheet. Align the edges of the lower and upper parts, remove excess sealant with a rag. Allow the assembled structure to dry.

To create greater rigidity of the structure, we will fasten the two halves of the bathtub in adjacent surfaces bolted connections. Drill holes for bolts carefully, remembering the fragility of the material. Seal the gap between the chimney pipe and the hole in the upper half of the stove with sealant. If there is a large gap, make a metal sealing ring.

Lattice

Now we install the grates on the bottom of the future furnace. They are made of cast iron or high carbon steel. The surest solution would be to install a cast-iron grate, which will be slightly wider in width than the lower part of the bathtub. If necessary, adjust the size of the grate so that the grates are installed at a height of 10–15 cm.

The most the best solution for the bottom of the oven there will be a cast iron grate

In the case where the grate size is smaller than desired, it is necessary to weld a couple of corners on required height and install grate bars on them. Welding work in the lower part of the furnace it is better to carry out before assembling the entire structure. Therefore, ensure that the grate is the correct size for the grate before installing the sheet on the bottom half of the font.

Masonry

In this form, the oven can already do its job. functional purpose. But a large number of heat is transferred through the external walls and is not used. In addition, the appearance of such a design does not give positive emotions.

Let's get started finishing works. Let's start with brick laying. The brick must be solid, solid red. We lay out the bottom row the width of a brick. Using the terminology of masons - a poke. Then, laying bricks around the perimeter, we will make half-brick masonry. Each subsequent row should be staggered. The solution used is supplemented with lime to eliminate the possibility of cracks.

If necessary, we will strengthen the rigidity of the furnace structure with internal brickwork and remove temporary supports. When laying the lower front part of the stove, we will fix the prepared door with the frame into the masonry itself.

For greater functionality, the stove must be lined with bricks

Usually there are two such doors: the upper one for storing firewood, and the lower one for adjusting the draft. We will finish the laying at the height of the first half of the bathtub.

Decor

To retain heat in the roasting pan and improve appearance We will finish the upper part of the structure with several layers of sand-clay mixture. This mixture must be prepared in advance. It is best to soak the clay in a bucket two weeks before use. Periodically add water and stir. Before use, add sand and a small amount of lime.

We will cover the upper part of the stove with a metal mesh, firmly fixing it at the edges. Apply the first thick layer of the mixture, and after drying, apply a finishing layer. The resulting thickness should be 6–8 cm. Roughness and unevenness will be rubbed off. Let's whitewash the top part of the structure.

To increase the cooking capabilities of the new unit, we will cut a damper out of metal. Its size should match the end of the fryer. The thickness of the damper is made small - 0.5–1 mm. We weld the handle to the damper and paint it, along with the doors of the lower half of the stove, with black fireproof paint in several layers. This will give contrast.

Our oven is ready for use. Let's start cooking fresh air and evaluate the possibilities of its use.

Do-it-yourself sauna stove from a cast iron bathtub

Old cast iron bathtubs are made of durable material that can withstand any loads and temperatures, so not using it a second time is for the benefit of your health. big mistake. In addition to its strength, cast iron is also environmentally friendly pure material, so during heating, you can rest assured that there will be no harmful substances Doesn't stand out in the bathhouse.

How to make a stove with your own hands?

Of course, after using the bathtub, it may not be in the best condition, but all its qualities remain at the same level, for example, it still remains strong and durable, so it is quite possible to give it a second life. Naturally, many who have summer cottages use bathtubs such as a water container, and those who are great at imagining can come up with many other interesting things. If you have summer cottage If you have a bathhouse, you can make a stove out of the bathtub with your own hands, which will be very expensive in the store. A material such as cast iron is excellent for creating a stove, because it has such advantages as:

Great durability.

Excellent thermal conductivity.

Withstands even the most high temperatures and high indoor humidity.

Easy to operate and does not require special care.

You can use an old bathtub to build such types of cast iron stoves as: an outdoor one, which will be located in the garden, as a fireplace for country house, and, of course, for the bath. Such options can be brought to life using own hands.

Making a stove, how to properly prepare a bath?

It will not be possible to use the entire container, so it will need to be cut. To make a cut correctly, you need to approach this issue with great responsibility. You will have to work with a grinder, and you will also need to prepare several metal discs in advance. It is imperative to take care of safety precautions, so special glasses, a respirator and gloves are worn. All actions must be performed correctly according to the recommendations given below:

1. Before you start sawing, you will need to make calculations and make markings for the future cut.

2. First of all, the enamel layer is cut, this is done in order to prevent chipping along the edges.

3. The cast iron itself is cut into small pieces, while taking breaks.

4. When half of the bathtub is cut, it is necessary to place supports under both parts, which will prevent further damage to the tool and the material itself.

Experts say that cutting is best done at an angle, then the enamel will not flake too much.

Rules for making a sauna stove from an old bathtub

The process of making a sauna stove is very complex, because you have to worry not only about quality, but also about safety. The fact is that the stove will be located in the bathhouse building, so there are parameters for installation, for example, it is worth taking into account the thermal power and its change, the ability to produce steam, as well as the ability to regulate convection flows. As soon as the bathtub is cut, you can begin to build a stove in the bathhouse. You will need one half of your cut, but sometimes you can use two parts of the tub.

To properly build such a furnace, you must follow the following expert advice:

To make a stove yourself, you initially need to prepare a foundation; it is made from concrete mortar, sometimes filler is used; broken brick is excellent for this, which can withstand even a large load.

One part of the bathtub is laid on the foundation, and it is important to ensure that it faces the curved part upward. The cut should be built into the wall with access to another room, where the sauna will be fired directly. For safety reasons and for the purpose of implementation design idea, the hole is closed with brickwork, then a combustion and blower door is installed.

When half of the bathtub is installed properly, then at a distance of 10 centimeters, walls made of refractory bricks are also erected, which will be equal to the height of the cast iron container. The space that is formed around must be filled with stones, it is they that will warm the room to desired temperature.

As an option, you can build a regular sauna stove, which will consist of two tiers, with all the heat going to the upper tier. The operating principle of such a furnace is based on the passage of gas through the bath, due to which the stones are heated, and then the heat flows down and returns up again, after which it exits the pipe.

One cannot but agree that the decision to create a stove for a bath in this way at your dacha from a bathtub is creative, but it is also considered rational from the point of view extra costs. For construction, there is absolutely no need to use any material other than an old cast-iron bathtub; you can also make a stove yourself without involving outside specialists; of course, this option should be considered if you have at least some experience in building baths. It is important to note that another advantage is the durability of this equipment, because cast iron is a durable material that can withstand high temperatures and moisture, which means that you can enjoy a hot bathhouse for a long time. In addition to saving Money, you also get in addition a durable stove, which is difficult to find on construction markets, because most materials today do not meet the quality.

After repairing and replacing an old bathtub with a new one, it often happens that you don’t have the courage to throw out another good-quality cast-iron product. But what to do with it next? People who have a dacha usually take out things that have become unnecessary to their suburban area, doing so with the expectation that they will definitely find some use in the future. We will tell you how to make a sauna stove from an old cast iron bathtub.

Cast iron bathtub, which had to be replaced with a more modern version, may no longer look very fresh in appearance. But it still remains a strong and durable container of sufficiently large volume that you want to somehow adapt for your economic needs.

In the countryside, a cast iron bathtub can be used for many purposes.

Most often in the countryside, a bathtub is used as a reservoir for water used for irrigation, or as a container for preparing compost. But there are other ideas. For example, from a bathtub you can make an original garden furniture or build a small artificial pond, which will become a real decoration of the site. And here a lot depends on the imagination of the dacha owner. And looking at photos of options that have already been implemented will help you navigate the situation and find something extraordinary for yourself. But you can also make a stove from a cast-iron bathtub, because they are quite expensive in the store. Cast iron is a perfectly suitable material for this purpose, which differs:

high strength;
good thermal conductivity;
resistance to high temperatures;
unpretentiousness in operation.

Decorated cast iron bathtub for collecting water in the country

Of course, all cast iron products, despite their strength, are quite fragile. Therefore, you need to handle them carefully and avoid applying excessive mechanical forces to them. But still, an old bathtub will make a good stove structure. From it you can make one of several options for stoves for your summer cottage:

street garden;
fireplace for a country house;
for a bath.

All of these options are completely doable with your own hands, and watching a video on this topic will help you better understand the process of actions that will be required to build a stove yourself. The bath itself will have to be cut into pieces. But cutting cast iron is not an easy task, requiring certain skills, effort and time.

How to properly cut a cast iron bathtub?

This operation must be approached with full responsibility. You need to act very carefully so as not to damage the cast iron product. For cutting you will need a grinder and several metal discs. If possible, it is better to carry out work not indoors, but outdoors, doing it in a respirator, safety glasses and construction gloves. The following sequence of actions must be followed:

First of all, the future section is marked;

Sawing the bathtub carefully to avoid chipping

then, along the entire intended line, a layer of enamel covering the cast-iron base of the bathtub is first cut to avoid chipping along the edges;
after this, they begin to saw the cast iron itself with cuts of 10-12 cm, taking breaks when the tool overheats;
Having cut about half of the bathtub, you need to put supports under each of the parts, otherwise at the end of the work they may close and damage the tool.

Advice. It is advisable to cut the cast iron base at an angle. In this case, as a result reverse The enamel of the disc will not peel off, and the cut itself will be smooth. WITH good tool With your hands, the job of cutting a cast iron bathtub into pieces can be done in about an hour.

A stove for a bath from a cast iron bath: how to make it yourself?

Building a sauna stove is much more difficult than installing an ordinary garden stove on a site. After all, it must be not only effective, but also safe. Therefore, you need to take a responsible approach to installing a stove indoors. And in order to quickly navigate the process of necessary actions, you can look at the photo or get acquainted with the corresponding video material.

Attention! The construction of a sauna or any other stove requires compliance with the rules fire safety. For her the right equipment you need to have at least minimal knowledge and experience. It is better, even before starting work, to first consult on this issue with a specialist, finding out all the subtleties and nuances.

The stove structure in the bathhouse must meet the following parameters:

sufficient thermal power with the possibility of changing it;
ability to accumulate heat and produce steam;
the ability to regulate convection currents.

A cast iron bath is suitable for building a stove. standard sizes

After cutting the bathtub, you can begin building the stove structure. In this case, you can use only one half of the cast iron container for the combustion chamber equipment. But they do sauna stoves and a two-piece bath. The second half can be used to build a heater or to add a compartment for heating water.

Those who love to make things with their own hands can build such an unusual sauna stove on their own. To do this you need:

Pour the foundation for the furnace structure from concrete mortar with or without filler. You can use, for example, broken brick as a filler.
Place half of the cut bathtub on the foundation with the curved part up. With a cut, the cast iron container must be built into the wall and removed to another room from where the furnace will be fired. The hole is blocked on this side brick wall and install a combustion and blower door in it.
Around the installed half of the bathtub, at a distance of about 10 cm, red brick walls are also erected, equal in height to the cast-iron container. The resulting space is filled with stones, which, when heated, will heat up, then giving off heat to the steam room.

Construction of the furnace

A fairly simple sauna stove can be built in two tiers. Heat will accumulate in the upper chamber. The principle of operation is this: the gas, passing through the bath, warms up the stones, goes to the opposite side, then goes down, and then up, after which it exits the pipe.

This non-standard solution, like a sauna stove from an old bathtub, is not only original, but also quite simple. Its construction does not require the use of any special materials. A stove structure made independently will last as long as a purchased product. In addition, this option requires a significantly smaller investment than purchasing a ready-made stove.