From this article you will learn:

• What are the styling methods? parquet board exist
• How to lay parquet boards yourself

Repairs in Moscow need to be taken seriously. You need to clearly decide on the type of flooring that you would like.

Using parquet as a floor covering is not only good way declare your wealth and status. This is also an opportunity to demonstrate to others that you have excellent taste. In addition, parquet as a covering is very reliable, environmentally friendly and has a long service life. Previously, to lay parquet, you had to work hard and have certain skills. Now, thanks to the advent of massive parquet boards, everything has become somewhat simpler. If you follow the recommendations of specialists, the installation process will not pose any particular difficulties for you. Today we will talk about how to lay parquet boards.

On this moment There are two types of parquet boards on sale: solid and multilayer. The difference between them is the manufacturing method.

• massive parquet boards are made from different breeds wood, both deciduous and coniferous. But to create it, a single piece of wood is taken. Grooves and ridges are made along the ends of the board.
• During production multilayer Several types of wood are used for parquet boards, and each of them has its own advantages. Thanks to this combination, the result is a parquet board with high performance characteristics. Thus, the top layer of parquet is made from hard and valuable species wood, because it is he who will be “responsible” for the appearance of the floor. The middle layer of plates is placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the top, using soft wood. The purpose of this layer is to act as a connecting element both for this particular panel and for those adjacent to it. The material for the bottom layer is plywood, as well as pine or spruce slats up to 4 mm thick.

Parquet boards for laying go on sale only after applying a special coating and impregnation to it, which protects it from rotting and the formation of fungus. Keep in mind: whether the board is multi-layered or massive, its service life depends not only on production technology and storage rules, but also on correct installation. You cannot influence the first and second in any way, but the third point can be easily controlled. Or even lay the parquet boards yourself.

But for such a floor covering to be durable and serve you for a long time, it is not enough to be able to work well with your hands. It is necessary to carry out a certain kind preparatory work. It is also necessary to strictly observe all the conditions of the technological process. What points should you pay attention to here first?

• Firstly, inspect the base on which the parquet boards will be laid. Not acceptable various kinds cracks, crevices and depressions. The base must be level and strong, and also without a significant difference in height. 2 mm per linear meter is the maximum that can be allowed. Substrates that do not meet the requirements must be repaired or completely redone.
• Secondly, the parquet board should “adapt” to your apartment - more precisely, to its microclimate. Therefore, after purchasing a board, it is not recommended to immediately begin laying it. Wait at least two days.
• Third, an important condition for successful installation of parquet boards is the level of humidity in the room. High humidity has a detrimental effect on this material, and therefore you should not lay parquet in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
• Fourth, again about humidity. During work, it is advisable to maintain a certain level (from 35 to 65 percent). The temperature must not be lower than 18 degrees Celsius. Compliance with these conditions will allow the coating to become more durable and increase its service life.
• And lastly by list, but not by value. When laying parquet boards, you should never forget about the underlay and waterproofing. Moreover, the features of the room and the foundation do not play a role here; this must be done in any case.

In addition one little advice: Do not place the parquet board perpendicular to the rays of light. In this case, shadows will be clearly visible at the joints.

How to lay parquet boards in different ways

Well-known manufacturing companies (Barlinek, Tarkett, Kahrs and others) are constantly trying to improve their products. Moreover, they work not only on the appearance of the product, but also on methods that can significantly simplify the installation process. More and more new locking systems are being released. There are several main types:

1. A connection considered classic when the tenons fit into the grooves.
2. The planks are connected at an angle of 10-30 degrees, after which the plates are fastened together by pressing.
3. This is a volumetric fixation system. There are several types of them, names and basic characteristics may not coincide, but the principle of connecting the elements is the same. A “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. In another case, it may simply be an additional insert. Be that as it may, thanks to such fixation, the entire coupling becomes more rigid and durable, and the service life of the parquet increases. Also this system prevents the divergence of the slats due to seasonal change environment.

Depending on what locking system is present on the products, the method of laying parquet boards is also chosen. When purchasing flooring material, be sure to check whether it is in stock. detailed instructions on installation. If the product is of high quality, it must be included with the packaging.

How to assemble multi-layer wood covering?

There are several methods the most popular:

• Laying parquet boards on joists.
• Fastening with nails.
• Laying on a rough wooden floor.
• Method using glue.
• A floating method in which parquet boards are connected using a lock.

Lock system in Lately is used most often. This method of laying parquet boards is convenient for both large and small rooms. Glue, on the contrary, is used less and less in such work. The fact is that laying parquet using this method is a very labor-intensive job, taking a lot of time and requiring perseverance.

Solid parquet is attached to subfloor mostly using nails. But this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past. If you lay parquet boards on joists, the distance between the latter should not exceed 30-40 cm, and this is not very profitable financially. And the process itself is also quite labor-intensive. But one of the advantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards is that all the work can be done with your own hands.

To decide which installation method is best for you, let's take a closer look at some of them.

Floating method

Many people have little idea how to lay parquet boards on a concrete floor using this method. Let's sort it out in order. Initially, plywood sheets 20 mm thick are rigidly attached to the floor. Waterproofing is placed on top, for which 200 micron polyethylene can be used. It is necessary that the entire surface is covered with waterproofing. To do this, polyethylene is overlapped, with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are glued together with tape. The film should also extend onto the walls - approximately 10-15 cm. Thick polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam or cork mats should be placed on top of the waterproofing. In the first case, the substrate, like the waterproofing, is overlapped and glued with tape. In the second and third mats, the mats must be placed end-to-end, but staggered.

Sheets of plywood should also be placed staggered, leaving a distance of up to 5 mm between them. It should be 10-15 mm from the walls. Parquet floors in a room can be installed in two ways: parallel and diagonal. In the latter case, a little more material will be needed. Before you start laying parquet boards, do everything necessary calculations: how much material is needed, which direction will be optimal. You need to plan everything so that the slabs in the last row do not seem too narrow compared to the rest. Connect parquet boards using tenons and grooves intended for them. Remember that between the wall and the parquet you need to leave a distance of 1.5-3 cm for the expansion of the material.

When laying the first row of boards, remove the tenons facing the wall. Direct the tenon of the next die at an acute angle into the groove of the previous one, lay the board on the base and use a hammer (through a block!) to achieve a tight connection with its neighbor. Place wedges between the first row and the wall.

When laying the second row of parquet boards, move the end seams by a third of the length of the dies. This is called staggered installation. To start, make the first board in the second row 1/3 shorter. Assemble the row completely, then join it with the first one. Also insert the tenons of the boards into the grooves at an acute angle and seal the joint by tapping it through the block with a hammer.

By the way, you can choose the take-off step at your discretion. But if you decide to make it exactly like this, then the first board in the third row needs to be shortened by 2/3 of the length. In the fourth row, all the dies are of their original size. In the future, follow the same cycle for laying parquet boards.

Most likely, you will have to saw off the last row of dies on the required width. At the same time, do not forget to leave a distance between the parquet and the wall. After this, remove the wedges and attach the skirting boards, under which the expansion gaps will not be visible.

One important nuance. To make the joints stronger, the grooves between the boards can be glued. But, on the other hand, if you need to replace one of the boards, this will cause certain difficulties.

Adhesive

With this method of laying parquet boards, you first need to firmly screw moisture-resistant plywood to the screed. Then glue is applied to it with a notched trowel, preferably two-component polyurethane. When working with glue, keep in mind that it is toxic, although after drying it is completely safe for humans. Small sheets of backing are placed staggered on a concrete base. The distance between them and the walls should be no more than 5 mm. Next, all the parquet boards are placed on the glue - using the same technology as with the floating installation method.

Before starting work, it is best to draw a diagram according to which in the future you will glue the parquet boards to the plywood. The difference from the previous laying method is that the boards are not assembled in rows, but are attached one at a time. Glue must be applied both to the plywood and to the dies; the grooves at the ends of the boards must also be filled with this composition.

Then we proceed according to the principle described earlier: we attach the board to the previous one using a lock, level it and compact it with a hammer and a wooden block. We additionally strengthen the panels with pneumatic nails into the groove, but in such a way as not to interfere with the connection. Glue will appear on the surface; it should be removed immediately. We fill the distance between the walls and the parquet with cork. Then we prime the entire surface of the floor, cover it with oil and wax or varnish. We attach plinths along the walls.

This method laying parquet boards is used mainly for rooms with a large area.

Using fasteners

How to properly lay parquet boards using this method? Just like when laying using the floating method, waterproofing and insulation of the concrete screed is necessary. The boards are connected according to the same pattern. The only difference is that you can lay dies with a thickness of more than 20 mm. It is permissible to fix the parquet as wooden base lying on the logs, and to the logs themselves. If you decide to use the latter option, keep in mind: the joists must be wide enough so that the joints of the parquet boards can be placed in the middle without any problems. The optimal distance between the logs is from 30 to 40 cm.

They are attached to the concrete base through the insulation strictly horizontally, using self-tapping screws and dowels. The dies are connected to the logs with nails or self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the thickness of the boards by 2-2.5 times. To ensure that nothing interferes with installation, they need to be installed in the grooves of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees.

How to lay a parquet board with your own hands

To work you need to have the following:

1. Waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns.
2. Combined or coniferous PE substrate, 2-3 mm thick. Another one will do, but the manufacturer must be the same as that of the parquet.
3. A block to compact the boards, a mallet.
4. Tool for fixing joints (for laying parquet boards with 5G locks).
5. A metal staple or wringer for laying the last row.
6. Glue-sealant, carpentry or PVA.
7. Plastic wedges for gaps between parquet and walls.
8. Hacksaw or jigsaw.
9. Construction pencil, tape measure and square.
10. Level and hygrometer.
11. Adhesive or strengthening primer.
12. If necessary, use a notched trowel, screwdriver, air gun or hammer.

Preparing the base

First you need to get rid of all the old foundations. Then take measurements and determine whether the floor needs to be leveled. If yes, then there are two options to prepare the surface for laying parquet boards:

• Use gypsum or cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors.
• Assemble a screed from plywood, chipboard or others.

Having prepared the base for laying, check it for humidity using a hygrometer, and with a long strip (more than 2 m) for evenness. Small flaws can be filled with quick-drying mixtures or cemented.

The next step is primer:

• If the parquet boards will be laid using glue, use adhesive compounds.
• If you plan to use the floating method, you need strengthening mixtures.

Is the installation base made of wood? Then you need to cut off all the irregularities from it (you can use a parquet sander). Fill the depressions with elastic putty. If the boards “walk”, tighten the subfloor to the base with screws or nails. If there are many defects, it will be easier to make a new screed from chipboard or plywood with a thickness of more than 16 mm. Treat the surface with an antifungal primer.

Preparing for work

The surface is prepared. The next stage of work will be laying waterproofing and backing material on it. Spread the film overlapping, the overlap should be 15-25 cm. Tape the joints with tape. Attach a backing (sheet or roll) on top. Place it end to end. If you plan to lay parquet boards using the glue method, you should skip this step.

After purchasing the material, give it time to “get used” to the microclimate of the room; this usually takes from 24 to 36 hours. If the apartment has a “warm floor”, then it would be good to turn on the heating system for two weeks, and turn it off 3-4 hours before starting work. This maneuver creates an ideal climate for laying the parquet boards and at the same time prevents thermal damage to the final finish.

One important point. If, when opening packages of parquet boards, you find that some products are slightly different in color and texture, that’s okay. Wood is a natural product, and therefore this sometimes happens. Turn this to your advantage by making an interesting design out of the boards.

Before starting work, be sure to draw up a diagram of the future installation, preferably to scale. The last row must be at least 5 cm wide.

Flooring installation

When laying parquet boards using the floating method, start working from the longest wall, clockwise. Leave space around the perimeter of the room for expansion wedges. According to experts, it is better to do this after laying the first three rows of parquet: move the boards using a bracket and insert wedges into the resulting gaps.

Next, cut off the tenons facing the wall on the boards in the first row. Place the first tile in the corner and begin assembling the ends. If the last die is bigger size than necessary, cut it. Start laying the second row with the remainder of the lamella of the first. If you are planning to lay a parquet board with a classic Click-lock, then after connecting the slabs at the end, fasten them along their length, be sure to tap them with a mallet or hammer through the block.

By the way, work with systems locks Lock and 5G is much more convenient. All thanks to the ability to join them both lengthwise and crosswise.

There are volumetric locks for which you do not need to adjust the plastic insert. Just snap the plates together and it's done.

You'll have to tinker a little with the last row of dies. It is unlikely that they will fit perfectly in size, and therefore they will need to be trimmed. After this, the tiles are fastened at the ends and joined to the last row. Be sure to press the laid parquet boards using a metal clamp or wringer.

It happens that a pipe or something else interferes with the even laying of the parquet board. In this case, mark the cutting line on the die, saw off a piece along it and drill a hole with a margin of 1–1.6 cm. Place the board in the desired place, apply an adhesive compound to the cut and glue it.

After installation is completed, remove the wedges and turn on the “warm floor” system (the temperature must be increased gradually). Secure the baseboards and install the door thresholds. By the way, the required gaps in doorways- Manufacturers' requirement.

As finishing touch it would be nice to treat the floor with special means for parquet boards. The wax contained in these mixtures seals well the joints between the boards.

How to lay parquet boards on heated floors

The parquet floor itself has remarkable thermal insulation properties, plus, the cold is not allowed to pass through by the substrate. But sometimes additional heating is still required. In such cases, the parquet boards are laid directly on the “warm floor”.

True, not every system will fit here. If there are no problems with water heating, then electric flooring is incompatible with parquet boards. Such a “warm floor” heats up too quickly, a sharp temperature change occurs, as a result of which the tile locks begin to crack.

Laying parquet tiles on the “warm floor” should be done only after it has been turned off and cooled to room temperature. Upon completion of the work, the system can be turned on no earlier than a week later, and its temperature must be increased gradually, no more than 2-3 degrees per day. It is also very important that the floor is heated evenly, otherwise the parquet board may “sink.”

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So, the trip to the store took place and the parquet board was purchased. The only thing left to do is put it down, so that you don’t have to redo everything later. The actual installation of parquet boards is not a complicated process, but if this is your first experience, then the first piece of advice that you need to take into account is that there is no need to rush. Everything can be done with your own hands with the same quality as if it were done by masters. But the big advantage in this case is saving money and plus “a couple of points” of life experience.

Necessary tool

Laying parquet boards is also simple because almost every owner has the tools necessary for the job. If you don’t have something, you can buy it or rent it. By the way, the money saved, which would have been used to pay for the work of the craftsmen, is quite enough to purchase this missing tool.

What tool is needed for the job:

• jigsaw;
• difficulties with the first option - then a hacksaw with a fine tooth will come to the rescue;
• small rubber mallet;
• plastic tamping block;
• spacer wedges;
• roulette;
• a clamp is needed to secure the last panel.

Laying process

Video installation rules

The tool is prepared, the instructions have been read, it’s time for active work. Where to start? How to lay parquet boards with your own hands? Let's start in order. The technology for laying parquet boards depends on the quality rough foundation, as well as the material from which it is made. Laying parquet board:

• on a concrete screed;
• logs;
• previous coverings (linoleum, carpet).

But no matter what you have to lay the parquet board on, the base must be smooth and clean. Otherwise, everything will have to be redone. Permissible deviations:

• slope 1-3 mm per linear meter;
• curvature – no more than 1 mm per 20 cm;

Video leveling the base

Advice!!! It is not advisable to install parquet boards at the beginning or end heating season, since this time is characterized by sudden changes in temperature, which wood products do not like so much. Although parquet boards are less susceptible to temperature influences, like piece parquet or solid wood, it is better not to take risks.

Choosing a substrate for a parquet board

Any technology for laying parquet boards requires the presence of a backing. So, before laying the finishing floor covering on a concrete screed or wooden floor, it is necessary to use an underlay. It is needed for:

• leveling small uneven floors;
• increases sound and heat insulation;
• better distributes loads on the floor during its operation;
• protects finishing coat from the influence of moisture;
• increases the service life of the floor covering.

On the prepared base you can put:

• a simple polyethylene foam backing;
• foil backing;
• duplex;
• cork backing;
• polystyrene backing.

Photos of different substrates

The backing itself is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, it should also cover the bottom of the wall by the same 10-15 cm. You can attach the strips of backing to each other with construction tape, but recently manufacturers have been offering customers already ready-made solution– substrates with special “wings” (tuplex) for fastening.

Preparation for installation

Video laying parquet boards

How to lay a parquet board, what direction to choose is decided by the owner of the house. Designers advise doing direct installation along the line of light, since the incoming light from the window will hide the seams between the boards. When laying is done across, it is worth starting from the longest wall. Also, before starting work, all the material must be sorted out, folded according to the pattern, and boards with defects removed.

Types of connections

Actually, before laying a parquet board, you still need to figure out how to attach the elements to each other. Each manufacturer makes its own specially shaped locks, but in general they can be divided into the following types:

• fastening by insertion method;
• lock fastening (click);
• fastening boards using staples or tightening belts.

It is worth noting that each manufacturer provides instructions on the packaging of their products on “how to properly lay parquet boards,” which describes the method of attaching the elements to each other. Also, often in these materials there is also a link to a video to further simplify the process of laying parquet boards with your own hands.

The simplest thing is to lay a parquet board that has a locking joint. In this case, on one side of the element there are grooves, on the other - insertion ridges. To connect two boards you just need to insert the ridge into the groove and that’s it, no more additional measures. If desired, you can tap several times.

Advantages of this method:

• high speed;
• everything can be done with your own hands without the use of special tools;
• if necessary, it is easy to repair and replace a damaged element;
• the boards have the space necessary for expansion under the influence of elevated temperatures.

Laying a parquet board using the insertion method is somewhat more difficult. In this case, it is necessary to constantly use a block and a hammer. Negative point This option is the difficulty of replacing a damaged element, which will be more difficult to do in the future. As an advantage, it is worth noting that laying the finishing coating near the batteries or door frames it will be simpler and easier, besides this, their grooves and ridges are practically never defective.

Laying with staples is only used for products with a thickness of 15 to 21 mm. Plus, the boards are additionally glued together, so it is quite difficult to disassemble such a floor in the future, and there is nothing to say about its repeated use.

Laying methods

Today there are the following methods of laying parquet boards:

• floating;
• on glue;
• with fixation with nails.

Each of the above methods is within the power of everyone and everything can be done with your own hands without much difficulty.

Installation with glue

It’s worth mentioning right away that this method is more labor-intensive and costly and is more often used when it is necessary to lay parquet boards in a room with a large area. However, there is nothing to be afraid of, everything can be done with your own hands, but slowly, since it will be very difficult to correct defects, because the boards are applied to glue, which firmly fixes them.

Laying parquet boards with glue involves fixing the flooring elements to the base. The adhesive is applied to concrete screed, plywood, plaster screed. Considering the previous requirements when applying this method, Special attention given to the subfloor. The base must be perfectly clean and level. You can remove dust from concrete screed or plywood using a primer. And we proceed to the actual installation of the finishing coating:

• then you need to lay out the first row of boards in the order in which they will be mounted. After which you can apply glue to the base, but only to the area that corresponds to the size of the first row;
• you can lay the first board, but do not forget about the gap between the future floor and the wall (about 6-12 mm);
• The second board is tapped to the first one using a special tamping block. Since the glue has a limited setting time, it is necessary to meet this time frame. This is the main reason why glue needs to be applied only to a small area. If necessary, the last board in the row is trimmed, but the remaining piece is not thrown away. The second row will begin with it;
• So, gradually, row by row, the entire area of ​​the room is laid out;
• if necessary, the last row is trimmed.

Video example of installation with glue

Floating installation method

Laying parquet boards using a floating method can be done quite simply and quickly with your own hands. Work can begin immediately after the backing has been laid on the screed. There are two methods of laying a floating floor:

• on glue;
• using a lock.

In the first option, the glue is applied not to the base, as in laying with glue, but to the ends of the elements, after which they are glued together. The second option involves the use of a tongue-and-groove mechanism.

Floating installation steps:

• It is recommended to start work from the left corner of the room, placing the boards with the ridge side to the wall;
• the second board must be inserted at an angle into the lock. When the products are correctly fixed to each other, a characteristic click is sometimes emitted. This means that the adjacent boards are connected correctly. The last board, as in the previous version, can be cut if necessary; the second row will then begin with the remainder;
• When laying near thresholds, it is necessary to periodically check whether the doors open easily. If necessary, the bottom of the boards can be trimmed;
• The last row can also be trimmed if necessary.

During work, so that adjacent boards fit more tightly to each other, you can knock them out with a hammer.

Video - floating installation

Laying on joists

Laying parquet boards can be carried out not only on concrete screed or plywood, but also on logs. This method is also more labor-intensive and costly than the previous ones. After all, here it is necessary to take care of the presence of such elements of the future floor as logs, as well as their fastenings.

Direct laying on the logs can occur in the following order:

• checking the logs for moisture, absence of damage, evenness of installation;
• sheets of plywood are nailed on top of them. You can directly attach boards to the joists using nails, but they must be of the appropriate thickness. In this case, it is recommended to keep the step between the lags small;
• Then the parquet boards are attached using glue or the underlay is laid, and the finishing coating is connected using locks.

Video tips for laying parquet boards

Installing thresholds and laying parquet boards without thresholds

The real finishing touch to laying parquet boards is the installation of thresholds and baseboards. The threshold is a straight strip, the main purpose of which is to hide the joint between different floors when moving from one room to another. Using thresholds also allows you to solve the following problems.

Block parquet, which was very popular in its time, is now being replaced by more modern materials. Among them, parquet boards with an equally presentable, noble appearance make a worthy competitor to parquet. But this flooring is much more affordable, less demanding to maintain, and more resistant to mechanical damage.

One of the indisputable advantages of parquet boards is the ease of installation. If for styling piece parquet Usually you have to invite qualified specialists, whose services are quite expensive, but it’s quite possible to lay a parquet board yourself.

Parquet boards can be laid on different substrates:

• concrete
• wooden, plank or with a screed made of sheet materials
• a second layer on the old floor covering (linoleum, short-pile carpet, tiles)
• on the logs
• on a warm floor

The requirements for the base are the same as for all floor coverings - integrity, strength, absence of significant differences in height. Under the parquet board, the slope should be no more than 2 mm per 1 m (unless other requirements are specified in the recommendations of the floor covering manufacturer), and unevenness, surface curvature - no more than 1 mm per 20 cm. Base errors not exceeding these values ​​can be adjusted using . A heavily damaged concrete or wooden base must be dismantled and re-arranged.

The second layer of parquet board can be laid if there are no swellings, defects, or unevenness of the old coating. Carpet or linoleum will serve as a substrate; installation on top of them is carried out exclusively in a floating manner. Floating and adhesive installation is possible on top of the tiles, Before laying on glue, the surface must be degreased.

Only parquet boards of sufficient thickness (minimum 22 mm) can be laid on the joists. she shouldn't bend. Lag requirements:

• dry, strong without rot
• installed in increments of 40-60 cm.
• with a surface that is at the same level throughout the entire area of ​​the room

You need to stretch a waterproofing film over the joists, fixing it with staples, and screw 2 cm thick plywood sheets with self-tapping screws. The sheets should be staggered so that the seams between them fall in the middle of the beam. It is necessary to leave expansion joints between the sheets of 0.5-1 cm and a gap of 1-1.5 cm around the perimeter. With a significant thickness of the parquet board and a small pitch between the joists, it is possible to lay it directly on them without a plywood backing, with a hidden fixation with nails.

Only water-based heated floor systems are compatible with parquet boards., on the eve of installation the heating must be turned off. It is not recommended to use boards thicker than 8.5 mm over heating systems. For heated floors, the adhesive method of laying parquet boards is better suited.

Preparation for installation

Before you begin laying the parquet board, it is necessary to inspect and prepare the base (leveling, strengthening), check its humidity level (when checked with a hygrometer, it should be no more than 2-3%), thoroughly clean it of debris and dust.

The next step is waterproofing and laying the underlay (if the parquet board is laid on top of the old coating, this step can be skipped).

• The waterproofing film is spread overlapping and taped at the joints and around the perimeter
• If the parquet board will be laid in a floating manner, a soft backing made of polyethylene foam, polystyrene, or
• The rolled substrate is laid end-to-end, the mats are laid end-to-end and apart
• For adhesive installation a solid backing made of moisture-resistant plywood is required, the length and width of the sheets should not exceed 1 m. After fastening, the backing must be sanded and cleaned of dust

The purchased board must be kept indoors where the floor will be laid, but it is recommended to unpack it immediately before installation.

Indoor microclimate requirements:

• temperature 18-24⁰
• humidity 30-60%

• If you have to trim a board in the last row and its width is less than 6 cm, you must also trim the boards in the first row so that the width of the first and last rows is the same
• Trimming the boards to width may also be necessary if the wall along which they are laid is very crooked. It is better that the unevenly cut boards adhere to the wall near which the furniture will subsequently stand
• The length of the last fragment in a row must be at least 50 cm.
• The boards must be laid staggered, offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length, but not less than 50 cm.

Required Tools

• jigsaw for cutting boards (can be replaced with a saw or hacksaw with fine teeth)
• lightweight hammer for tapping, preferably a rubber mallet
• long (1.5-2 m) rule, level
• ruler, square, tape measure, pencil
• for laying on glue - notched trowel
• clamp or bracket for tamping the last boards
• You can use scraps of boards as a tamping block, and spacer wedges can be made from scrap materials.

Methods for laying parquet boards

Parquet boards are produced with locking joints that secure the boards together. It is also possible that they additional fastening to the base. Based on the characteristics of the room, the direction of installation is selected.

Laying technology

Parquet boards can be laid:

• floating method
• hard way (with glue)
• with fixation with nails to the joists

Pros and cons of floating and adhesive installation

Floating installation:

• high speed and simplicity
• possibility of error correction during installation process
• possibility of repair, replacement of individual boards
• When moving, the covering can be completely dismantled and the boards can be reused
• non-susceptibility to deformation due to temperature fluctuations
• no glue costs
• ready for use immediately after installation

Minuses:

• not suitable for rooms with high floor loads and areas larger than 50 m²
• not recommended for heated floors
• sensitive to ground unevenness
• requires the mandatory use of transition thresholds

Installation with glue:

• has no restrictions on area and load
• less demanding on the base, allows you to smooth out unevenness
• goes well with heated floors

Minuses

• time and labor costs increase
• additional costs for glue
• operation is possible only after the glue has completely cured
• Correcting errors, repairs, and maintenance of floors are difficult
• boards cannot be reused

Laying direction and pattern

• in a straight line, along the length of the wall (the simplest and most commonly used method)
• across, usually used to visually expand a narrow room or if the parquet board is laid on an old plank floor (the boards should lie perpendicular to the floorboards of the base)
• diagonally, suitable for square rooms, allows you to make the corner the compositional center of the room, focusing attention on it. A more complex way with a large number waste

Laying parquet boards with your own hands

Before laying the first row, you need to install spacer wedges at the walls and cut the boards in accordance with the laying pattern.

Features of diagonal laying

At diagonal laying boards are cut at an acute angle, usually 30 or 45⁰. It is best to stretch the cord from corner to corner and align the first row of boards along it.

You can start laying from the corner, moving from window to door, or from the center of the room, moving from left to right. The panels are first joined end to end in rows, then the freshly assembled row is joined to the already laid one. The first, central row will be the longest; it is advisable to put it in place after joining the panels at the ends together with an assistant. To prevent it from moving during the process of docking the next rows, it is necessary to place a load on top. It is important that when laying narrow joints run apart.

Floating installation

1. The first row is assembled against the wall, with the groove facing it, close to the spacer wedges. The boards are connected at the ends and, for maximum tightness, they are lightly tapped through a spacer, for example, a wooden block
2. Laying will be faster if you connect the panels to the laid row not one by one, but assemble them in a row, then connect the rows, tackling each board. To prevent the panels from moving apart, you can temporarily fasten them at the joints using scraps of boards, at the same time eliminating height differences
3. As necessary, holes are cut for pipes, and special plugs are installed on top of these places.
4. The last row is tapped through a bracket; in the area of ​​the doorway, the board is trimmed to fit tightly to the frame
5. After laying the board over the entire area, the spacer wedges are removed, baseboards and thresholds are installed

Installation with glue

To lay parquet boards, you cannot use glue on water based. Usually it is enough to apply the adhesive composition only to the base, but in case of intense load on the floor, you can additionally coat the back side of the boards with glue. It is also recommended to glue the joints.

You can use glue to cover the area of ​​the floor under each panel being laid, but if you have the skill, it is more convenient to cover the area with glue along the entire length of the room and 3 boards wide. First, the first row is assembled and pressed to the base; the protrusion facing the wall must be cut off before starting installation. Next, the stacking method is used, the boards are connected to the laid row one by one, each one is carefully pressed. Excess glue must be promptly removed.

Laying on joists

To fix the parquet board to the joists, nails without heads are driven into the grooves at an angle of 45⁰, and the boards are connected to each other with locks.

Laying parquet boards with your own hands: video instructions:

Bottom line

Parquet boards can be laid on a prepared base or old flooring. The easiest way to install is the floating method. Laying with glue is more labor-intensive, but this floor covering can withstand significant loads. Laying diagonally more difficult to install in a straight line, requires careful calculations and is associated with increased waste.

Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. During this time, it managed to establish itself as a practical and durable material. In addition, to master the technology of its installation, you do not need to have special knowledge. In the production of parquet boards, wood is used only natural origin, which ensures impeccable quality and durability of the coating. Let us consider all the features of the choice and method of laying parquet in more detail.

There are two installation methods. To do right choice you need to focus on the desired result.

1. Using a certain laying direction, you can visually increase the size of the room. To do this, the boards should be placed diagonally. The material is placed at an angle of 45°. But this method also has a drawback - excessive consumption of material, which will be 10-12%.
2. If you need to save on the consumption of boards, then you should give preference to the second option, which involves placing it parallel to the wall. Laying is carried out in the direction of the light flow.

Parquet board. Photo:

Determine the required amount of material

One of the first steps when installing parquet boards is calculating the material.

1. First, the width and length of the room are determined. It is also necessary to know the dimensions of the board; they may differ from each manufacturer.
2. The installation method is also taken into account. For direct placement, a material reserve of 5% should be provided, and for diagonal placement - 10%.
3. Next, based on the parameters of the room and the size of the board, you need to perform calculations.
4. Initially, the area of ​​the room is measured.
5. Then the required percentage is added to the resulting indicator.
6. The final result is divided by the footage of one package.
7. If the number turns out to be a fraction, it must be rounded up.
8. You can also contact the seller who will help you calculate required quantity boards

Preparatory stage

Installation of parquet boards is carried out on a flat base. The difference per 1 m2 should not exceed 2 mm. If the boards are laid on an uneven floor, after a certain period of time they will fall out of the locks and become unusable.

There are two ways to level the surface:

• using plywood;
• using a cement screed.

To lay parquet flooring, you need to use only smooth plywood. FK grade material with a thickness exceeding 12 mm is suitable for this purpose. It is also recommended to purchase calibrated plywood sheets. The entire batch of such products has the same thickness. You can find sanded sheets on the market, but their use is not particularly necessary. In addition, this material is more expensive than ordinary plywood. The procedure for laying plywood is as follows:

1. Each sheet needs to be cut into 4 fragments.
2. The choice of fasteners depends on the material from which the floor is made. The sheets are attached to the wooden base using nails, and to the concrete surface using self-tapping screws.
3. Between the sheets you need to leave a space of 3 mm.

Before laying the parquet board, the floor can be leveled using a cement screed:

1. Initially, the previous coating and dust should be removed from the base. If there are cracks, they must be sealed with cement mortar.
2. The joint between the floor and the wall is closed with a damper tape. This will help prevent the formation of cracks and leakage of the mixture. The tape should exceed the screed by 4-5 cm.
3. In addition, a waterproofing compound is applied to the floor surface or a polyethylene film is laid.
4. To determine the thickness of the screed layer and the areas where the beacons will be installed, it is necessary to find the highest point. A mark is placed at a distance of a meter from the floor slab.
5. Further along the perimeter of the room is carried out horizontal line, which will play the role of the base level.
6. Then the distance from this line to the floor is measured and the highest point is determined. The thickness of the screed should not be less than this level.
7. After this, beacons are installed - guiding elements set in accordance with the initial level. Cannot be used for this purpose wooden parts, because They will absorb moisture as the screed dries. Beacons should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the wall and 30 cm from each other. You can fix them using cement composition. But in this case, before you start screeding, you need to wait until it dries.
8. At the next stage, the solution is prepared. You can purchase a special mixture or prepare the composition yourself. To do this, mix cement with sand in a ratio of 1:3 and add water. For stirring, use a drill equipped with a stirrer. The solution should acquire the consistency of thick sour cream. To check the readiness of the mixture, you need to squeeze the lump in your hand - it should not spread or fall apart. If desired, plasticizers can be added to the composition - elements that increase the plasticity and elasticity of the solution.
9. The mixture is placed starting from the opposite side of the outlet. The composition is laid out between the guides for 0.5 m, after which it is pulled together using the rule.
10. It will take 3 weeks for the screed to dry. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten it with a roller. This will prevent cracks from appearing. You can also cover the screed with film for this purpose.

Laying parquet boards: floating installation technology

Parquet flooring in accordance with this method can be laid on a wooden base and screed. The boards are fastened using a tongue-and-groove system. The parquet is not attached to the floor surface. This method has a number of advantages:

1. There is no need to purchase additional adhesive compounds, which reduces costs.
2. Installation work does not take much time.
3. The simplicity of the technology makes it possible to do the installation yourself without involving specialists.
4. If any element is damaged, repairs can be performed in fragments.
5. Replacing one or more boards is carried out without dismantling the covering.

Mounting to wooden floors and joists

1. If you plan to install the coating on a wooden base, you must initially eliminate all existing defects - chips, gouges, cracks, space between the boards.
2. Leveling the old floor will require more time and effort. To do this you will need a grinding machine, screws, and glue. The new floor boards are leveled by hand using a planer.
3. Installation on logs involves fastening to the base using nails. This procedure is performed through the ridges of the connecting board lock.

How to lay a parquet board with glue

This method is used mainly in large rooms. It allows you to ensure strong adhesion of the parquet covering to the base. When choosing this method, you should remember that parquet boards can only be laid using glue on absolutely flat surface. This is the most common method currently used. But it is also quite expensive, since its implementation will require the purchase of additional materials.

To lay parquet boards with your own hands you will need:
hammer;

• hacksaw;
• square;
• block measuring 30 cm;
• pencil, tape measure, ruler;
• thrust bracket;
• wedges;
• drill.

Let's first consider important rules to prepare for the process:

1. During the work and after its completion temperature indicators the room should be at +20°C, humidity should not exceed 60%.
2. If installation is carried out on a heated base, then 48 hours before installation, you need to set the temperature to +18°C.
3. The wood from which the coating is made has the ability to shrink and expand depending on changes in humidity levels. For this reason, a space of 10 mm is left between the floor and walls. A similar gap will be required in the area where the pipes pass.
4. Do not open all packages of material at once. This should be done as work progresses.
5. If the room width exceeds 8 m, the covering is separated by a free seam. The same operation is carried out when moving to another room, in the area where the door structure is located and in the area of ​​corners. The longitudinal seam is not glued; it is covered with a separate strip.

The installation process is carried out in the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the boards are checked for defects. If available, only the undamaged part is used. Such parquet is installed in inconspicuous areas. Having laid the first row, you need to make sure that it is even. The entire subsequent process depends on this.
2. If the surface of the wall from which the installation is made is uneven, then the board is cut in accordance with its curve using a hacksaw. First you need to draw an approximate line with a pencil.
3. Laying the second row begins with the fragment remaining from the previous board. Transverse seams should be spaced 50 cm apart.
4. The adhesive is applied to the upper and lower edges of the groove in a layer of 2 mm. Excess glue must be removed from the surface of the coating using a damp rag. One liter of the composition can treat 15 m2 of area.
5. The boards are connected using a block.
6. If there are pipes in the room where the installation is being carried out, then you need to cut off a fragment from the board that will be laid behind the communications.
7. Next, using a square, two lines are marked on it, corresponding to the diameter of the pipes. The distance from the middle of the communications to the installed board is marked.
8. Then you need to drill holes, the diameter of which should be 20 mm larger than the size of the pipes.
9. Using a hacksaw, passages are cut along the marked lines, after which the board is installed.
10. Glue is applied to the edges of the sawn fragments, and they are installed in the cut area.

When installing parquet boards, it is often necessary to shorten the door frame and trim. To do this, you need to lay a separate board with a backing next to the box. Next, the platbands and the box are cut off with a hacksaw. Special linings are installed in the threshold area. The width of the last board does not always correspond to the required size. In this situation, it needs to be placed on the previous panel (their edges must match) and sawed. You can make approximate marks in advance.

The sawn-off fragment is mounted using a bracket. Wedges are installed for fixation. The seams can be treated with mastic. It will take 4 hours for the glue to dry. After this time, the wedges must be removed and the baseboards installed. This covering can also be laid on carpet or linoleum. But in this situation, fastening can only be done using the floating method. As a result, you will receive an excellent and reliable oak parquet flooring that will fit well into any interior.

Grinding processing

Sanding allows you to hide all coating defects. After this procedure, parquet boards made of ash, larch and other species take on a more attractive appearance. To work you need to prepare:

• a special machine;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• vacuum cleaner;
• wood putty;
• varnish, roller, brushes.

The processing process looks like this:

1. No. 40 abrasive is installed on the machine.
2. First, grinding is performed by tilting the drum at an angle of 45°.
3. Then the procedure is repeated, but in the direction of laying the boards.
4. The work should be carried out until the unevenness and roughness disappear completely.
5. To treat various hard-to-reach areas, a “boot” device is used.
6. At the final stage, the surface is treated with fine-grained abrasive.
7. To check the quality of grinding, you need to run your hand over the coating and check - it should be perfectly smooth.

Parquet manufacturers

Tarkett parquet boards are made from pine, oak and other types of natural wood. The manufacturer offers a wide range of these products. The consumer has the opportunity to choose a suitable parquet flooring from a wide variety color range. The most popular type of product from the Tarket company is a three-strip board, 14 cm thick.

The high quality of this material allows it to be used in premises for any purpose. Lock connections boards are thoroughly tested and meet all quality requirements. The manufacturer provides a fifteen-year warranty on its products. At the same time, Tarkett boards are affordable.

Polarwood parquet board has a multi-layer structure. In each layer, the wood fibers are located in a perpendicular direction, which increases the strength of the material. The middle layer, which takes on the bulk of the load, is made from coniferous species. And the base of the board, which acts as a stabilizer, is made of birch. On outside 5 layers of varnish are applied to the material.

To manufacture its products, Polarwood uses exclusively natural materials. The parquet flooring of this manufacturer is resistant to high temperatures and ultraviolet rays. Polarwood boards retain their performance characteristics for 20 years.

Conclusion

Laying parquet boards can be done in several ways, each of which has its own advantages. The technological process is simple and does not require special training, and a wide variety of materials will allow you to choose best option for your interior.

Laying parquet boards. Video:

Parquet board is a popular floor covering that you can install yourself if you choose the right one necessary materials and spend some time studying existing installation methods. Today we will talk about parquet boards and common technologies for its installation.

Parquet boards - characteristics and design features

The first prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when Sweden came up with a way to replace expensive piece parquet with more accessible board. Initially, the board was two-layer, but after 5 years three-layer boards appeared on the market. facing materials, which have survived to this day practically unchanged.

Currently, parquet boards are produced with various varnishes and oil coatings. Such facing materials make it possible, with a relatively small financial investment, to decorate the floor in an apartment or private house in an attractive and aesthetically pleasing way. They are presented on the market in a wide range of colors, textures and technical characteristics, thanks to which the cladding can be selected to suit almost any interior.

A modern board is a three-layer board made of natural wood, up to 2.6 m long, 13 mm thick and 139–210 mm wide. Specifications finishes vary depending on the manufacturer. The top layer of wood is always coated with protective oil or varnish mixtures, which not only extend the life of the cladding, but also make the board as attractive as possible.

The bottom layer of finishing material is made of spruce veneer 2–4 mm thick. It functions as a stabilizer, prevents deformation of other layers and protects them from negative impacts. The middle layer has a thickness of 8 mm, it is made of pine planks up to 30 mm wide, which are laid out across the entire width of the product. The top or front layer is lamellas with a thickness of 5 mm, made of reliable wood of expensive species. The slats are laid along the entire length of the board and securely fixed to the middle layer using glue. The top layer provides the parquet board with its excellent visual characteristics and long service life.

The top layer of cladding is sanded and additionally treated with protective mixtures. During operation, the board can be re-sanded and re-treated with varnish or oil compounds. Since the material can be sanded and re-coated at least three times, the board can serve the home owner for several decades. The fibers of the layers are placed perpendicular to each other, so that the floor covering is not subject to deformation due to changes in humidity and ambient temperature.

Laying parquet boards can be done independently without much difficulty, since this material has a tongue-and-groove locking system.

3 styling methods – which one to choose for yourself?

Before purchasing finishing materials, you need to understand existing methods its installation. There are three options for attaching parquet panels to the floor surface:

1. 1. On glue.
2. 2. Floating method.
3. 3. On the logs.

All three installation options have their own unique features, advantages and disadvantages. The most common method is floating installation, but it is only suitable if parquet boards with a thickness of no more than 14 mm are installed. The main advantage of the floating method is its simplicity - even people who have no experience in working with facing materials can easily install it, and the floor can be safely used immediately after the repair is completed.

The adhesive installation method involves fixing the boards to the base and simultaneously gluing the elements of the facing layer together. This method is usually used when installing dies whose thickness is more than 14 mm. The disadvantages of installing with glue include the complexity of installation work, as well as the additional costs of purchasing an adhesive composition.

The mechanical installation method is to secure the boards with self-tapping screws on a wooden base or on joists. It is usually used for installing panels with a thickness of more than 20 mm and involves fastening with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the groove of the board at a certain angle. That is, it is necessary to choose the method of installing the board not only taking into account personal preferences and capabilities, but also depending on the thickness of the facing materials used.

How to prepare the base for installation of facing materials

The installation procedure for the coating will largely depend on the condition of the subfloor. Typically, foundation preparation includes three stages of work. First, the floor is restored, then adjustments and cleaning are carried out, after which you can proceed directly to installation.

First, let's look at the preparation procedure for laying a wooden floor. First of all, it is necessary to assess the condition of the foundation. If the floor is new, does not have significant defects and significant differences in height, and the boards are not infected with fungus and mold, then the coating does not require preliminary restoration. If you need to cover the old floor, it will almost certainly need repair. Typically, wood floor repairs involve replacing individual damaged boards.

While repairs can often be avoided, adjustments to the base before cladding are almost always required. Most often wooden covering There are board deflections, knots and cracks. If there are deflections, individual elements must be strengthened, knots are removed by grinding, and cracks are repaired with improvised means. It is very important to check the surface for evenness before installing the finishing cladding. If the base is curved, then before laying the board it will have to be treated with sanding equipment or puttied. After these adjustments, all that remains is to thoroughly clean the room.

If you plan to install parquet materials on concrete base, then the procedure for its preparation will most likely require a minimum of effort. The concrete floor should first be inspected for cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle concrete where it crumbles. Defects found must be corrected. The easiest way to do this is with a self-leveling mixture. If the floor is in very poor condition, then it will be easier to dismantle the old covering and pour in a new screed, which will definitely be level and strong enough for finishing.

Regardless of the chosen installation method, it is best to lay the parquet board on a layer of a special substrate. The substrate between the rough coating and the finishing cladding performs whole line important functions:

1. 1. Smoothes out minor unevenness in the base.
2. 2. Improves the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the cladding.
3. 3. Reduces the likelihood of moisture getting into the finishing wood coating.
4. 4. Evenly distributes the load on all cladding elements.
5. 5. In general, it extends the life of the finish.

Usually foamed polyethylene is used as a substrate, although today substrates are very popular among owners Tuplex, layers of foil materials, polystyrene and cork.

Step-by-step instructions for installing with glue - let's do it together

Glue installation is a rather complex and labor-intensive method of laying flooring. Modern adhesive compositions They harden very quickly, so you can’t make any mistakes during installation, because correcting them will be very difficult. Installation with glue involves installing cladding dies directly onto the base, so the floor must be perfectly flat and clean.

It is not recommended to lay the board directly on the concrete surface, since the floor in this case will be very cold. It is better to first lay moisture-resistant plywood on the surface. The plywood is cut into squares with a length of one side of 60 to 80 cm. The sheets are first glued to the concrete (the glue is spread on both the floor and the plywood sheets), after which they are additionally secured with dowels. Between individual plywood sheets there should be a gap of 3–5 mm so that they do not deform during thermal expansion. Further installation can begin 2-3 days after fixing the plywood, so that the glue has time to dry completely. After drying, the surface is sanded to remove glue residues, burrs and possible irregularities.

Now you can attach the parquet board to the plywood. To do this, we recommend using two-component polyurethane glue; mix it immediately before use. The board is attached first near one of the walls. We carefully coat it with glue and press it to the base so that its groove is directed towards the opposite wall, and between it and the nearest wall there remains a gap of about 1–1.5 cm. To avoid mistakes, first place pegs or thin bars near the wall, which can be removed after installation.

The first board needs to be secured more tightly to the base; to do this, we screw it to the plywood with self-tapping screws. Screw the screws into front side in places where skirting boards will be installed after installation. Then you need to coat the second board with glue and insert its tenon into the groove of the first cladding element, and after that we tap the second board so that it is connected as tightly as possible to the first. In this way we install all the boards of the row up to the wall. If necessary, we cut the last board lengthwise, and after installation we fix it with self-tapping screws, just like the first one. Each subsequent row is mounted in the same way; difficulties may arise only with the last row, which may have to be cut to length.

Floating method - simple and fast

Floating installation technology is rightfully considered the simplest and fastest. It involves fixing facing materials using a dry method using the provided lock system, without glue and screws. Before installation begins, the cladding must be brought into the room and left there for two days. After this, a special underlay is laid on the floor to protect the parquet from excess moisture.

First, the first board of the first row is laid with the ridge facing the wall. Then the second board of the first row is inserted into the lock of the first board until a characteristic click is heard and is securely fixed through several blows with a special hammer. Laying continues until you reach the wall; at the wall, the board is usually cut lengthwise so that there is a 10 mm gap between it and the wall. After this, we proceed to install the next row of cladding.

To increase the reliability of fixation, the ends of the boards can be pre-lubricated with glue. On the one hand, such a connection will be more reliable, but on the other hand, it will deprive the floating installation method of its main advantage, which is the ability, if necessary, to carry out simple repairs to the floor by partially disassembling it and replacing damaged elements.

Features of installing cladding on joists

Laying trim on joists is much more difficult than floating installation. First, you need to install the sheathing, which is made from wooden blocks. To install the logs, bars with a cross section of 50–100 mm are used. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete base, and the insulation strips are connected to each other with tape. The waterproofing should extend onto the walls to a height of about 20 cm. The first log along the length of the wall and with a distance to the wall of no more than 5 cm is laid on the waterproofing. The logs are laid along all the walls in the same way, and then they are connected and leveled. Smaller logs are laid between them, which should form squares. The distance between individual bars should be no more than 35–40 cm.

After checking and leveling the joists, they are secured to the base with dowels. Many experts recommend filling the empty space between the joists with sand so that the parquet does not sag; if you don’t want to use sand, you can simply install the bars at a smaller distance from each other, for example, in increments of 25 cm.

Now you can start installing the board. The first workpiece is placed with a ridge to the wall at a distance of 10 mm and secured to the joists with nails, driving them into the lower base of the board at an angle of 45°. Hats must be sunk into the board with a hammer. The next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one and snapped into place, after which it is secured with nails to the joists. The boards must fit tightly to each other, the permissible gap is no more than 0.5 cm. The last board is cut in width so that there is a gap of at least 1 cm between it and the wall. After this, subsequent rows of cladding are installed using the same technology.

“Warm floor” and parquet boards – can they be combined?

The parquet board is different good characteristics sound and heat insulation, however, you can make living in the premises even more comfortable if you install a heating system of the “warm floor” type. However, not all heating systems are suitable for installation under wood cladding. Professionals believe that it is permissible to install a water-heated floor, but the use of electrical systems must be abandoned, since they create too high a temperature, the impact of which on facing materials can lead to their premature damage, cracking and other defects.

Installation of the cladding must be carried out over a disconnected and completely cooled heating system. After completing the installation work, turning on the heating is possible no earlier than 2-3 days later. After this time, you can gradually turn on the heating, but at a minimum temperature, increasing it by a few degrees every day until it reaches the desired level.

It is very important to pay attention to permissible temperature impact on the cladding before purchasing it. Many types of parquet boards can withstand contact with temperatures of no more than 25-27 degrees. Choose those Decoration Materials that can withstand the temperature effects created by the heating system installed in your home.