It is sad to observe the appearance of brownish, yellowed branches of evergreen thuja covered with a grayish bloom. Why did thuja turn yellow after winter and what to do. The gardener or the owner of the site where the tree grows should be responsible for the manifestation of a painful condition in the spring or autumn period of the year. The article provides information on what could have caused the yellowing of thuja and how you can help the tree to regain strength and return to its former beauty. More details will help you to get acquainted with the material video, which is at the end of the article.

Natural causes of yellowing of thuja

Loss of decorativeness and yellowing of thuja twigs happens due to a number of reasons. This condition is typical for plants that do not receive proper care, a deficiency of nutrients is formed in the soil and problems with the root system appear. The plant can have an unsightly appearance when it suffers from a disease or pests, and improper planting of thuja in open ground can also have a negative effect.

Healthy ! In autumn, thuja needles can turn yellow for a natural reason - due to the loss of chlorophyll, which provides nourishment for the needles.

The needles turn yellow, dry out and die off, after which new young needles appear in the same place. This process occurs with the plant every 3-6 years and is the natural life cycle of the thuja.

Thuja have yellowing of the needles associated with a natural defensive reaction to cold snap in the autumn, after which the twigs turn green again.

The article below provides a description of each reason why the twigs thuja turned yellow after winter or at other times of the year. It also provides information on the measures that need to be taken to save and restore the decorative effect of the plant.

Important! Despite the reason why the top of the thuja turned yellow, and the needles are dry, the affected areas should be cut out. It is necessary to remove only the dried needles of the plant, since the twigs can still be covered with fresh greens. It is not recommended to leave yellow needles on the plant, as this can lead to the death of the tree.

Causes, why did the thuja turn yellow and what to do

Recommendation! Every spring, prophylactic treatment of thuja with a growth stimulant should be carried out, you can use Epin or Zircon. Also, this procedure must be carried out if the plant has suffered from sunlight and received burns.

It is possible to rid the plant of a fungal disease with the help of a foundation solution. To prepare it, you need to take the drug in a proportion of 10 grams per 10 liters of water. The first time it is recommended to process thuja immediately after planting. The procedure must be repeated further for preventive purposes.

Advice! If the branches are affected by the fungus, pruning of the shoot should be done 3 cm above the site of infection. After that, the cut must be treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.

1. Thuja newly planted are at high risk of infection with brown shute immediately after winter when the snow melts. The disease is manifested by a change in the color of the needles to brown, subsequently the branches are covered with a gray-black bloom. Therefore, in early spring, for preventive purposes, the plant should be treated with phytosporin.

Watch the video! Why does thuja dry in spring? What to do in this case?

Thuja pests

1. Some types of mites that inhabit the needles of a tree can only be seen with a magnifying glass. If small red insects are visible on the shoots, then we can say with confidence that the plant is affected by ticks. You can get rid of pests by spraying the needles with "Fufanon" or "Aktellik".
2. The needles in the spring season can acquire a reddish-brown tint and even become covered with a grayish bloom when they are attacked by sucking insects, such as thuja aphid, thuja false scutellum, mealy worm, moth, speckled, juniper scabbard.

In order to rid the plant of these pests, the thuja should be treated with karbofos in the spring.

After that, in the summer, as a preventive measure, spray with "Rogor" or "Aktellik". Abiga Peak is also suitable for these purposes.

1. Also, the plant can be susceptible to attacks by leaf roll larvae, which provoke yellowing of the needles due to the fact that they form cocoons on the shoots.
2. The mayfly bagworm caterpillars eat greens.
3. Weevil beetles also cause significant harm to the plant, as they gnaw and damage the bark and needles of thuja.
4. Thuy bark beetle, similar to the spruce bark beetle, makes holes in tree trunks, which causes significant damage to the tree.

In order to get rid of these pests, the ephedra should be sprayed in late spring - early summer. For the procedure, you will need drugs: "Fufanon", "Actellik", "Confidor".

Processing, which will allow the destruction of pests, should be carried out 2-3 times a month, observing an interval of 1 week. Spraying is best done in the morning or evening. You should also be careful about safety measures during spraying. This operation should be carried out in a special protective suit and a mask with a charcoal filter.

As a top dressing, you can use both home and commercial fertilizers. Manure from cattle or bird droppings is used as organic feeding.

A solution for treatment can be prepared from manure, while it is required to dissolve 2 kg of manure in 10 liters of water, and then remove the resulting composition in a dark and warm place for 14 days. After that, the solution must be diluted with water again. It is recommended to water each tree with the resulting liquid, pouring out the product at the very root.

Conclusion

The yellowing of thuja needles can be associated with several of the most serious reasons, such as: improper plant care, attacks of viruses and insects, and a natural age-related reaction. The tips presented in the article will surely help you cope with all the ailments that a tree suffers from.

Watch the video! Why does thuja turn yellow and how to save it?

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Many gardeners ask the question: "Why do thuja turn yellow and what to do?"

There are many reasons for the yellowing of thuja needles. This may be due to both various fungal infections and other factors that are completely unrelated to diseases. Thuja pests and other reasons for its yellowing will be discussed in this article. Also. we will look at how to prevent yellowing of needles and how to deal with pests.

Thuja yellowing, not associated with diseases and pests. It should be remembered that for the winter thuja produces a special protective red pigment in the leaves in the leaves, which changes the color of the plant from slightly brownish to intensely brown and even pinkish-bronze (depending on the type and variety of thuja).

Yellowing of the thuja top indicates that it does not receive enough nutrients due to damage to the root system. This may be due to two reasons. The first reason is the wetting of the roots in conditions of stagnant water or high groundwater levels (read below). The second reason is the defeat of the roots by fungal diseases (read on the page: thuja diseases).

Sometimes we observe that the thuja has turned yellow due to excess moisture in the soil. For example, it is dangerous to plant thuja in low places, where there is often water that accumulates there after melting snow or heavy rainfall. If you know in advance about the tendency of the soil to waterlogging and stagnation of moisture, you need to either immediately choose another place for planting, or make good drainage in such soil in advance for the outflow of water. In conditions of overmoistening, the needles of the thuja turn yellow, as the roots become damp and rot. The decay process spreads to the base of the skeletal branches and the plant inevitably dies. If the thuja began to turn yellow in conditions of waterlogging, it is better to immediately transplant it to another place. According to one of the experts, thuja Smaragd is able to withstand spring stagnation of moisture in a layer of water of about 10 cm for a week. True, in such conditions, about 5 - 10% of thuja Smaragd perishes. However, the surviving plants still suffer in the future and are distinguished by slow growth. A fungal soil infection that causes fusarium or root rot is often added to root locking. From preventive measures on stagnant soils, drainage of the site is used or the right place for planting is chosen. Diseased plants are transplanted, treated with Bordeaux mixture or special preparations of a similar effect. In professional nurseries, spraying with a 0.2% solution of foundationol is used against root rot.

The next reason for the yellowing of the needles is its damping. We talk about damping needles in cases when the needles of a thuja turn yellow and die off due to poor air permeability and a lack of light in places where nearby plants touch each other or with a massive fence (solid wall or fence). In some cases, damping of needles is also associated with too late removal of the winter shelter. When covered with lutrasil, thuja will also flutter. The needles in such places turn yellow, dry and easily crumble. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to plant the plants on time, observe the correct interval in advance when planting them, monitor the condition of the covered plants as the spring warms.

Do not plant thuja too close to cast supports, walls or fences that do not have free gaps and thus create continuous shadow and drafts. The crowns of plants from the side of such supports turn yellow from the effects of winter drafts and lack of light.

Often we are faced with the fact that thuja turns yellow inside, only around the trunk. Outside, the color of the shoots is normal. The yellowing of these areas is associated with an insufficient supply of light to them, as well as with a limited life cycle of needles (it lives up to 3 - 5 years). The yellowing of thuja inside has practically no effect on its appearance, since outside this deficiency is hidden by densely located healthy shoots. The process of yellowing of thuja inside is natural and is not associated with any diseases.

We can often observe that our thuja turned yellow under the rays of the spring sun. Then we can talk about sunburn needles. Thuja burns are observed in early spring, with the beginning of the growing season, when the plant has already woken up and started to grow, but the developing needles have not received enough moisture due to the fact that the frosts are still holding and the earth has not had time to thaw. To prevent spring burns, it is recommended to shade sensitive species in the fall, especially on the south side, and also do good watering before winter so that the needles absorb enough moisture. In addition to the above, it should be noted that different types of thuja are prone to sunburn to varying degrees. The western thuja is the most resistant in this respect, and the eastern thuja is the least resistant. If burns have already appeared, it will not be superfluous to shade before the ground thaws. You can also sprinkle with warm water and spray the needles in the absence of sunlight. Spraying with zircon gives a good effect.

An increase in the dose of fertilizers recommended by the manufacturer leads to oversaturation of the plant with microelements and also causes yellowing of thuja needles and burns of roots. Don't overdo it! Use only special fertilizer for ephedra. However, it is recommended to use them only when necessary.

Insufficient iron content in the soil also leads to yellowing, sometimes to whitening of thuja needles on various independent shoots. Likewise, red-violet color of needles can signal a lack of phosphorus in the soil, and chlorotic needles and slow growth of thuja - about a lack of nitrogen in the soil.

Frost holes and winter drafts can also lead to damage to individual thuja branches and, as a result, to yellowing of the needles. Frostbites are cracks in the bark that appear on a twig or trunk when they are simultaneously exposed to frost and sun. Frost cracks are treated with 3% solution of copper sulfate or another antifungal agent, then covered with wood balsam or garden varnish. Winter drafts lead to frostbite of plant parts, after which the damaged branches turn yellow and die off. Plants growing along solid walls or fences will be more likely to suffer from winter drafts.

If your thuja grows along the road and in winter the tips of its needles have become yellow or brown, and, moreover, this mainly happened on the lower parts of the plant, then it is time to assume that it was influenced by special mixtures that road builders pour during this period in order to eliminate icy conditions.

Mechanical damage to branches can be caused by the weight of snow or ice adhered to them, when branches bent to the ground not only deform the crown, but also break. It happens that large trees lose whole branches. This happens after heavy rainfall in the form of sleet or freezing rain. The accumulated snow must be gently shaken off with a long wooden stick. Broken thuja branches will turn yellow.

The next reason why thuja needles turn yellow is a lack of moisture in the soil. During a long dry period, all thujas need watering. Young and not so long ago planted plants are especially sensitive to drying out of the soil. At first, the thuja fades due to moisture loss, and then begins to turn yellow and dry (read below).

There are several reasons for this:

1. Insufficient watering. Thuja at any age loves medium - moist soils and at the same time does not tolerate excess water. Ideally, the soil for it should always be moderately moist. So thuja develops better and grows faster. However, according to the definition of experts, thujas need mandatory watering after transplantation, during a prolonged drought and at a young age. This suggests that the threshold of drought resistance is lowered in young and recently transplanted plants. As a matter of fact, it is so. By the way, plants that have successfully taken root after spring planting may not survive the dry summer and require more attention. It is enough to assess the state of soil moisture by touch and prevent it from overdrying.

2. Violation of the landing technology. With insufficient deepening, the roots will suffer from drought and this can cause not only yellowing of the thuja, but also the death of the plant. During the planting procedure, the plant needs abundant watering. Not only the planting hole is poured abundantly, but containers with plants are spilled over and over. A clod of earth is also watered until it is moist, in which it does not fall apart. Some sources write that excessive deepening can lead to yellowing of the lower branches of the thuja, poor growth or fading of the plant, and even decay of the roots. Such problems do not always occur, but the situation can be corrected by freeing the root collar in a circle from an extra layer of earth.

3. Broken branches during transportation. The damaged branches of the thuja will soon turn yellow and will have to be removed. Thinned sections of the crown will overgrow on their own over time, but they can also be closed with adjacent branches, securing them with wire in the desired direction. To prevent such damage, plants must be properly positioned in the vehicle. Also, the crown of the plant can be tied before transportation, although for many varieties of thuja this is not necessary and depends on a number of factors.

4. Too long waiting for planting from the moment of digging the thuja out of the ground. During such a pause, in the absence of watering, the roots may dry out. When the roots dry up, the result will not be long in coming: planted after a long anhydrous pause, your thuja will turn yellow partially or completely. The plant may not die, but it will be much more difficult for it to take root. There is only one conclusion: the clod of earth should not dry out before planting, therefore it requires watering and proper storage. If the branches are still alive, and only the needles have suffered, remove the yellowed needles with your hands. Such twigs can eventually become covered with new shoots.

From animal feces, thuja needles turn black. In the photo, you can see the typical manifestations of exposure to animal urine.

Thuja pests: photos and the fight against them. The activity of thuja pests greatly weakens the plants and often causes their death. The pests of thuja are thuja aphids, which are bred by ants, a spider mite, a gray larch leafworm, a moth moth, click beetles, bark beetles, a thuja false shield, a thuja bast beetle (stem pest).

Thuja aphid has a gray-brown color and is covered with a silvery bloom. On close inspection, this aphid on a thuja can be seen from the underside of the shoots. Aphids are an insect that sucks out plant sap, living in numerous colonies, therefore, over time, its activity causes yellowing and falling off of the needles.

You can treat aphid from aphid with a soapy solution. The treatment with such a solution is repeated at least two to three times every 7 to 10 days. If aphids are too numerous, insecticides should be used to control them. Be sure to destroy the anthills on the site, as the ants are colonizing the aphids.

Moth larvae - variegated gnaw through the tissue of the tips of the shoots of the thuja, making moves in them. On close inspection, inlets and outlets, as well as tiny caterpillars, can be seen on the affected parts of the plant. The butterfly itself is also very small (up to 4 mm), emerges at the end of May. The speckled moth is a miner moth, it lays its eggs in the apical shoots of the thuja, from which larvae emerge again in the spring. So the life cycle of the pest repeats again, from year to year. Affected thuja needles turn yellow and die.

If butterflies or larvae are found, it is necessary to mechanically remove them and the parts of plants damaged by them. Chemical insecticides are also used to control insects. To prevent the spread of the pest, in July, you should carry out a double treatment with special agents containing pyrethroids. The interval between treatments should be 8 days.

Gray larch leafworm is a small dark caterpillar. Affected shoots are characteristically entwined with cobwebs. In some places, the spider web connects the needles into a cocoon, inside each cocoon there is a caterpillar. Caterpillars emerge from eggs and after 3 - 4 weeks turn into pupae, and then into butterflies. The wingspan of the butterfly is 20 - 22 mm. Pine, spruce, and larch are most often affected. With a large number of insects, the plant may die.

For prevention, plants are sprayed with insecticides in May - early June. If there were too many caterpillars, they are re-cultivated in the summer.

Beetles are clickers, or rather their larvae are root pests in the ground. Eating the roots, they cause general weakness in the thuja, an arrest of growth, then the thuja turns yellow and dies. In the people, the larvae of click bearers are called wireworms. Grown from the larvae, the clicker beetle differs from others in the ability to roll over from back to feet, making a characteristic sound when jumping. The larvae develop in the ground for 3 - 5 years, grow up to 2.5 cm and, as they mature, begin to eat the thicker parts of the roots.

To destroy the larvae, the earth is watered with products containing diazinon. The appearance of the larvae of click beetles is promoted by acidification of the soil and its waterlogging, therefore, these factors should be eliminated. It is useful to carry out preventive digging of the soil in the fall.

Spider mite it is easy to differentiate from other pests by the presence of a thin spider web, which over time draws on a large area of ​​the crown. This pest is most often found on Canadian spruce trees. Insecticides help in the fight against spider mites.

The bark beetle is a very dangerous plant pest that affects not only thuja. The pests themselves and their larvae eat wood, gnawing through many passages in it. Plants affected by bark beetles die within a month. The size of the bark beetle is 0.8 - 9 mm and it has a lot of varieties.

When thuja beetle appears, the plant must be treated with special insecticides. If there is little sense from them, it is better to destroy the plant by burning. This pest is somewhat similar in appearance to a bark beetle and makes small holes in the trunk. Sometimes in the bark you can see curved passages and small pieces of wood crumble from the tree.

If your thuja was struck by a false shield, then when examining the shoots of the plant, you will find on them rounded dark or light brown growths, very similar to buds. These are adult pests and their larvae. Adult false shields spend the winter in litter, and their larvae hibernate in the bark of young shoots. The size of the false shield is about 3 mm. Thuja does not die immediately, but it always significantly weakens its growth, and its needles at first look dull, lethargic, then turn yellow, dry.

How to treat and prevent. To prevent infection, in early spring, as soon as the ground has thawed, a special caterpillar glue is applied to the base of the trunks, blocking the way upward for insects. For the same purposes, you can wrap burlap around the trunks, since it plays the role of a trap. If there are few insects, it is enough to clean off the shoots from them by any mechanical means. With extensive infestation, insect pests are destroyed with insecticides. A good result is obtained by Aktara's solution, which needs to be processed twice with an interval of 10 days. You can use Actellic in the same way. The treatment should be repeated in the summer (in the middle of July and in August) in order to prevent the development of a new generation of larvae. There is no need to list all the names of insecticides, since any garden center will help you choose the right one.

Now thuja requires resuscitation measures to restore its health - these are mineral fertilizing, regular watering, as well as spraying and watering with growth regulators (zircon, epin give good results).

The mole is able to destroy the thuja "in the bud". Sometimes the cause of the death of thuja can be this small animal, which damages the roots of plants in the course of its life. In fact, it does more than just harm. However, neither gardeners, nor gardeners, nor owners of professional plant nurseries like it. Then you can watch an interesting video on the link: how to catch a mole (without special improvised means).

Diseases also cause yellowing of thuja. Read about them on another page

Thuja is a durable and unpretentious plant that, with its strict beauty, is ideal for any garden and will delight more than one generation of people. But even in caring for unpretentious green pets, some difficulties can arise. Let's deal with one of these problems - why the thuja turns yellow.

It may happen that scaly needles suddenly begin to turn yellow on your beautiful thuja. What to do? First of all, you need to find out the reason for the yellowing, and in our case, the reasons may be different.

Although thuja is a long-liver, its needles-scales have a shorter lifespan, namely, from three to six years. Having lived the period allotted to them, the needles grow old, lose chlorophyll grains, turn yellow and fall off, and young ones grow in their place. This is a normal, natural process and should not cause any concern.

Also a natural process is the seasonal change in the color of the needles of some types of thuja. This is due to the plant's adaptation to frosty winters and lack of light. In spring, when daylight hours increase and the process of sap flow begins, the color of the needles is restored.

For example, the basic (wild) varieties of folded thuja (Thuja plicata) and western thuja (Thuja occidentalis) become golden-bronze in winter. The decorative varieties Holstrup, Columna and Brabant take on a light brown tint. But the Smaragd variety remains deep green even in severe frosts.

Thuja folded
Thuja western "Columna"
Thuja western "Smaragd"

Incorrect fit

Thuja often turns yellow when the soil and planting site are incorrectly selected. Let's dwell on the main points that can cause yellowing.

When planting a thuja, it is very important to choose the right soil mixture. On clayey, heavy soils, the roots will not receive oxygen and will not be able to develop normally. Sandy soil allows moisture to pass through itself very quickly, and the plant does not receive enough water. The most suitable soil for this plant should be nutritious and light (a mixture of turf, sand and peat). Drainage is very important, as stagnant water is harmful. For the same reason, it is impossible to plant thuja in places where groundwater is located close to the surface.

An important point is the planting level of the thuja. With a strong deepening of the root collar, the trunk will begin to rot, and if it is not deep enough, the roots dry out.

It happens that a young thuja immediately begins to turn yellow, here the reason may be in a bad seedling. When buying, you should pay attention to the moisture content of the earth coma, the branches should be elastic and flexible.

When planting these plants in groups (for example, a hedge or a high curb), you must strictly maintain the distance between them. The minimum gap between thuja is 1 meter. With strongly compacted plantations, thuja begin to hurt.

If you see the reason for the yellowing of your thuja in the wrong planting, then it must be urgently transplanted in compliance with all the necessary conditions, and then the tree will not disappear.

Improper care

Another reason why thuja turns yellow is mistakes in caring for it.

Diseases

Some fungal diseases may be to blame for the fact that your thuja has turned yellow. They are most often affected by thuja. In the course of the disease, they form brown-black growths or round spots on damaged tissues, in which spores develop. These diseases affect the trunk, branches and needles.

Schütte brown

For example, shute brown in early spring, it envelops the branches of thuja with cobweb, dense mycelium of brown or gray color. The needles also become brown, they do not fall off immediately, as they are glued together by this bloom. If urgent action is not taken, then the whole plant will undergo infection and die.

Another type of fungal disease destroys the tissues of the cortex. This leads to necrosis... Absolutely all of its parts are affected, while the bark often begins to fall off. The needles also change color. The change occurs first in separate spots, which then merge. Most often, trees weakened by unfavorable weather conditions (severe frosts, drought) are affected by necrosis. Diseased trees attract stem pests.

Some types of fungal diseases affect old, low-lying branches, while others - an exceptionally young growth. The fight against them consists in carefully removing damaged branches and treating them with fungicides. Moreover, it is necessary to spray it repeatedly with an interval of two weeks.

Root rot

A very dangerous disease of thuja is root rot... In this case, the fungus Phytophtora cinnamomi destroys the surface tissue of the young roots. The plant turns pale yellow and then dries up completely. The main symptom of this disease is changes in the trunk in the area of ​​the root collar. The bark in this place becomes softer, a plaque appears with light dots, and the trunk under the bark turns from cream to brown. Young thuja dies from this disease in one season. In a hedge, after a disease of one plant, a massive infection is possible. Therefore, at the first sign of illness, the entire plant must be dug up and burned. And it is better to replace the earth in this place, since the spores of the fungus remain in the ground. Phytophthora fungi affect thuja, weakened by heavy soils, so you should definitely take care of proper planting and caring for the plant.

Conifers in the garden are a true decoration, bringing grace and severity to the landscape, possessing a magical ...

Pests

Thuja, like other conifers, have insect pests that form two main groups.

1. Sucking

A distinctive sign indicating the defeat of thuja by this species of insects is the appearance of a gray coating on the needles and a massive movement of ants along the plant.

- Thuye false shields they look like brown buds, and the juniper scutes form growing yellowish ulcers. They are attached at the base of the shoot. BI-58 is well cured, as well as drugs such as Aktara and Lufoks.

- Speckled moth... It becomes more active in May. Its larvae gnaw through the passages in the thuja scales, which leads to a color change and the death of shoots (the tip is most often affected). To combat moths, drugs are used that include pyrethroids.

- Thuvaya aphid... It lives most often at the bottom of the trunk. It sucks the juice from the needles, this leads to yellowing and falling off of the needles. It is necessary to spray with Karbofos.

Speckled moth
Thuvaya aphid

Mayfly bagworm

- Mayfly bagworm... Its caterpillars feed on needles and thuja twigs. A characteristic sign of damage by this insect are silky yellow sacs (about 5 cm) hanging from the branches. This insect causes massive loss of needles, greatly weakens the plant, which makes it more accessible to other pests.

- Larch roll... The larvae of this insect damage the thuja needles, weaving them into small cocoons. The needles then turn yellow and fall off.

- Spider mite... A defeat by this pest will be indicated by the presence of a thin cobweb and small light dots on the needles of a thuja. If the lesion is very severe, then the plant turns white and becomes covered with cobwebs. You can fight the tick by repeated spraying with insecticidal and acaricidal preparations (for example, Aktellik, Envidor, Akarin, Fitoverm and others).

Weevil beetles (skosari)

- Weevil beetles (skosari)... In spring, these insects eat up the needles and bark of young plants. And the larvae living in the soil feed on the roots. This causes browning or yellowing of the needles. To fight the larvae, the soil should be watered with an insecticide (for example, "Aktara", "Antichrushch"). It is also effective against beetles and larvae pollination of the soil around the plant with the drug "Confidor".

2. Stem

Thuy bark beetle

If the bark exfoliates on your thuja, and under it you find intricate holes and passages, it means that the plant is attacked by stem pests (bark beetles). In our case it is thuy bark beetle(Phloeosinus). It damages the bark so badly that the plant dies. In the damaged areas, small holes are visible, gnawed by the bast beetle.

The fight against bark beetles is very difficult. One of the means of struggle is pheromone traps. They attach to the tree and are used to attract these insects. When they flock to the trap, the tree is uprooted with them and burned. Antiferomones are also used; on the contrary, they scare off beetles. These substances are safe for humans and animals.

To combat stem pests, you can use drugs such as "BI-58", "Actellik", "Clipper", "Fufanon" and others.

Try to gently, effortlessly bend the thuja twigs with your fingers in different parts of the crown: dead dry twigs break easily; live branches are elastic (even if the needles have dried on them); the tree's main trunk (in whole or in part) and roots may still be alive. It is a pity that you did not contact us with a question about room overwintering of thuja earlier, when the tree has not yet suffered very much, but now you must definitely try to help it, even if it outwardly seems completely lifeless (if it is still alive, it will move over time in growth).
In winter, thuja in the living room with sufficient watering dries out from excessive dryness of the air and from warm content (thuja is desirable for a wintering temperature of 6-10 degrees in a cool, bright room or close to window glass on a cool window sill, with regular maintenance of the humidity of the earthy coma and air, with daily spraying the crown).
I recommend that you buy "Epin" (an excellent remedy for restoring plant immunity) and start daily sprinkling the crown of the affected thuja with soft water, adding "Epin" to the water according to the instructions; after the water on the branches dries up, place the thuja in a "mini-greenhouse" (the greenhouse will help prevent further drying of the crown in room conditions) and place the thuja on a cool windowsill. In the spring, you can put the thuja on the balcony, protecting it from the sun's rays; in warm weather, you can spray the thuja crown twice a day (morning and evening).
After transferring the thuja to the garden, cover its crown with gauze or covering material. Do not rush to cut the bare branches of thuja, be patient: young shoots may appear on them (perhaps the tree will recover slowly).
Once I planted a thuja in the garden in the fall, suffered during the overwintering and met the spring completely naked; after regular spraying and careful maintenance, the thuja soon put on a new outfit and has been growing happily for several years now.

Ziborova E.Yu.

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Thuja turns yellow - this is a problem that worries so many gardeners and owners of this coniferous plant. In many cases, after yellowing, the plant simply dies away, then nothing can be done. The reasons why thuja can turn yellow is quite problematic to establish.

But among the reasons there may be natural ones, because in the fall they turn yellow, since their life has simply expired. It's just that after a certain age, some branches begin to die off and it is completely useless to worry about this, because the dead branch will definitely be replaced by a new, young one. This is a natural process that will not bring anything dangerous to thuja, but, on the contrary, will renew the tree. This process takes place after three to four years of the needles' life.

Also, the color of the thuja can change depending on the season. Some types of needles during the winter period slightly change the color of the needles to yellowish, or slightly brown. This can be regarded as a defensive reaction to frost and cold snaps. After winter, the needles will turn green with double strength and you will not even remember that once it was yellow or brown. But it also happens that after the winter period it does not come into shape, but remains the same yellow, or darkened. In general, we can say for sure that a noticeably unhealthy tree will be immediately. By the way, in the spring there may still be such an option as a burn of needles.

If the needles turn yellow in the summer, then the reason may be in the care that is being done incorrectly. You need to pay attention to the soil. It may be that there are not enough elements in it that are necessary for the enhanced growth of needles. Or maybe the soil just isn't right for her. Sandy soil, clayey soil adversely affects it, if the water stagnates on the site, it is not surprising that the thuja simply turned yellow, because growth and development can be seriously impaired. It is also impossible for it to interact with animal urine, because it, as it were, burns it - in places where it touches, the thuja becomes black.

Also, be sure to monitor watering, which should be regular and abundant. It will somehow survive the increased humidity, but if it is not watered, then most likely it will turn yellow and dry. On the soil with elevated peat, the roots are often very rotten and disappear. In the evening, or in the morning, the thuja can and should be sprayed. It will be like a breath of fresh air for her, because spraying is an integral part of the active development of the plant.

By the way, treating with an antifungal agent will not be harmful at all, but for prevention this is the very thing, because it is better to prevent the appearance of a problem than to solve it later.

If the thuja is already drying up and you understand that these are the consequences of drought, then you need to act this very second. First you need to prune dry branches so that the plant is cleansed and renewed. Fear not, this plant can tolerate pruning very well. Then you need to remove the point, which is called growth - that is, the top of the needles needs to be cut off by about ten to fifteen centimeters. The plant on the soil must be fertilized with acidic peat, that is, a thick layer should cover the soil, mix with a layer of the upper soil. This is followed by the application of fertilizer, which is specially designed for conifers. There is such a remedy as "Epin" - so they need to spray the tree, after ten days have passed, they need to add such a remedy as "Zircon", it also needs to be applied by spraying. And after another ten days, you need to spray with such a product as mullein.

These resuscitation actions must be carried out before the end of June, that's for sure, otherwise the plant simply cannot be saved. Even before the end of summer, you will be able to observe a real revival, there will be no trace of a sick thuja. And next spring you simply will not recognize it - a completely renewed, fragrant thuja will give you beauty and coziness on the site.

In general, thuja is an ornamental plant that should always look good. If it turns yellow, in any case, the owner's jamb. After all, yellowness can depend on many factors, mainly questions about caring for it. If the thuja has turned yellow in the summer, then most likely this is a matter of drought. In this case, it cannot be postponed, if the thuja can be saved, then this should be done immediately and on the same day. In general, the actions are not complicated and if you do everything right, you will quickly bring the thuya back to life. But it should be warned that recovery can take a long time. If you see that all is not lost, then do not despair. The main thing is to follow the rules of care and everything will be fine.