A bathhouse with an attic is convenient and practical. This bathhouse has an additional room; it can be used as a rest room or even for an overnight stay. An excellent option would be to insulate the attic; in this case, it will become a full-fledged room where you can stay overnight not only on a summer day, but also in winter.

It is especially important to have a residential attic with insulation if the bathhouse is located on summer cottage, where there is no full-fledged home. It will eliminate the need to build an additional building.

Bathhouse with attic

To insulate the attic, you can invite specialists or do it yourself. The first option is suitable for people who do not have time or enough knowledge. If you are confident in your abilities and want to save money, then it is better to use the option of insulating the attic yourself.

But before you start any work, you need to decide what is the best way to insulate the attic.

How to insulate an attic for winter living? Which material to choose?

When choosing how to decorate the attic from the inside, you need to focus on the winter in the region: if it is not too long and not severe, then you can limit yourself to not too expensive and thick insulation. If you live in a region where Cold winter, then it is better to use quality material and lay it in several layers.

You can insulate the attic with one of the following materials:

Mineral wool in the form of slabs based on basalt fibers is the most popular material for thermal insulation. Mineral wool is sold in the form of rolls, mats and rectangular slabs. This material is fireproof, does not contain harmful impurities, and has high heat and sound insulation properties. But it absorbs moisture, so it is better to use mineral wool for wall insulation, and it is recommended to choose a different material for the ceiling and floor.

Mineral wool

Polyurethane foam is a viscous, self-foaming composition; it is sprayed onto walls and roofs, fills all gaps and provides effective protection from the cold. Polyurethane foam has good thermal insulation properties. The disadvantage of the material is that you need to use a special sprayer to cover it, so if you want to insulate the attic yourself, this option is not suitable.

Polyurethane foam

Glass wool is a budget material. It is environmentally friendly, fire resistant, has good thermal insulation properties, does not contain toxic compounds. The main disadvantage is that it contains glass, so self installation quite difficult. In addition, if the material is poorly fixed to the inclined surface, the thermal insulation material may begin to move away from the walls, and this will lead to the room becoming cold.

Glass wool

Ecowool is a material consisting of cellulose and antiseptic. Ecowool itself is afraid of fire and is susceptible to rodents, so it is covered with special protective equipment. The insulation material is absolutely safe for humans, but its use requires the use of special equipment.

Ecowool

Penoplex is an environmentally friendly, safe and durable material. It is resistant to moisture and fire, and has a low price. This material can be installed with your own hands.

Penoplex

Styrofoam - cheap material, but it is completely unsuitable for a bath. Polystyrene foam is toxic, a fire hazard, and rodents often breed in it. Its advantages include light weight and ease of installation.

Of course, it is impossible to say unequivocally what is better to sheathe the inside of the attic. Everyone decides for themselves. But to help you decide what to cover the inside of the attic with, we can give one more piece of advice.

Usually the attic does not have rectangular shape, so the insulation must be laid at an angle. For this reason, it is better not to use flexible and soft materials for thermal insulation. When deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is better to choose a tiled material that is easy to install.

How to insulate an attic? Methods

There are several ways to sheathe an attic.

Installation of thermal insulation material between rafters

This option has the advantage that there is no need to create a ventilation gap between the roof and the thermal insulation layer. But in this case, an additional requirement is imposed on the material: it must be as thick as rafters.

Installation of thermal insulation material between rafters

Installation of thermal insulation material above the rafters

In this case, the area of ​​the room will not be reduced due to the thermal insulation material, and the beams can be used as a decorative element. But it will be necessary to make high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier.

Installation of thermal insulation material above the rafters

How to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands: instructions

Insulation of the attic from the inside should be carried out correctly at the stage of construction or major repairs. But before moving on to thermal insulation, you need to prepare the surface.

Step 1. Preparation for insulation of the attic floor

First you need to clean the wooden rafters from dust and treat them with an antiseptic.

If the attic dimensions are large, then you can equip a standard rectangular room with ceilings and partitions.

Preparing for insulation attic floor

Step 2. Insulating the attic floor of the bathhouse

Need to make a bed waterproofing material on wooden logs. If in the bath reinforced concrete floors, then it is necessary to fix an additional layer for sound insulation and make holes in the corners for ventilation.

On next stage work, it is necessary to prepare the subfloor: install wooden logs 15 cm high.

Place thermal insulation material between the beams. Expanded polystyrene is suitable for self-leveling floors, and mineral wool for wooden floors.

After this, you can proceed to the installation of the finished floor and finishing coating.

If you will lay thermal insulation material in several layers, then you need to lay them in such a way that the seams different rows do not match, in this case you can avoid drafts.

Insulation of the attic floor of a bathhouse

Step 3. How to insulate an attic roof from the inside?

The greatest heat loss in a room occurs through the roof, so it needs to be given special attention.

Before you start insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands, you should check the roof. If leaks are detected, the roof must first be repaired and only then proceed to laying insulation.

When we insulate the attic, when working with the roof, we need to start with the waterproofing layer and lay the material from the bottom to the ridge along the rafters. The next step is to select and attach with slats a windproof vapor barrier to the ventilation gap above the rafters.

Then you need to fill the entire space between the boards with insulation. Seal the joints between the wall and rafters with sealant.

Make sure that the layer of thermal insulation is equal to the thickness of the beams. If the material is thinner, then the insulation of attic roofs should be done in several layers, and if the beams are thinner, then fill it with wooden slats.

The next layer when insulating the attic roof will be a vapor barrier membrane; it can be attached using a construction stapler. The joints must be overlapped by at least 10 cm and the material must be secured with metallized tape.

Insulation mansard roof from the inside with your own hands

Step 4. Insulating the attic walls from the inside with your own hands

This step is not always relevant; there are attics where the roof reaches the floor. But if you have a different structure, then you need to know how to properly insulate the attic and its walls.

To do this, it is necessary to attach the waterproofing film well to the walls, install wooden frame around the window niche. Mount the beam below. Place a heat insulator between the timber and the sheathing. Fix the vapor barrier membrane to the wall.

Do-it-yourself insulation of attic walls from the inside

Step 5. Insulating the attic gable from the inside

The pediment is considered the least protected part of the building, so special attention should be paid to its insulation.

If we talk about how to insulate the gable of an attic from the inside, then, in fact, the process of work is similar to insulating the remaining parts of the bathhouse (wall, roof, floor): you need to clean the surface, cover it with a waterproofing membrane, make a sheathing, put a layer of thermal insulation and vapor barrier.

The attic in the house is a space with great potential. It has a spacious area to serve as a place for storing things or seasonal recreation, and a non-trivial shape that can become the basis for the implementation design ideas. Not using its capabilities is a big omission.

You can organize the space of the attic floor in different ways. But the most rational of them is arrangement for living quarters. Insulating the attic from the inside yourself will help with this. The choice of material and the order of work will also not be difficult after a detailed consideration of the characteristics of the materials and the insulation process.

Why insulate?

A nice, warm attic has whole line advantages over an uninsulated floor:

• Can be used as a living space all year round.
• An uninteresting shape is suitable for interior design in an unusual style.
• The upper floor, due to its isolation and unusualness, can serve as a bedroom, office or children's room. Children especially like it in the attic, of course.
• Dormer windows are designed differently than regular ones and let in a lot of light. This is useful if there is a children's room there, and is also suitable for other purposes, because daylight always better than artificial.
• When transferring the function of any room in the house to the attic floor, a lot of usable space is freed up.

At the same time, insulating the attic, despite the name, also works in the opposite direction. Summer stuffiness and heat concentrated under the roof of a house are not the best companions for comfort. To prevent the air in the attic floor from heating up because the sun heats the roof all day, thermal insulation is needed.

Many people forget about this when choosing insulation. attic space from the inside, and instead of a room for all-season use, they get an option for wintering. In summer it is impossible to be there due to high temperatures and stuffy air.

Why insulate the attic is clear: increase the usable area of ​​the house by turning the attic into a living space. The exact type of room this will be depends on the individual needs of the family. There can be a greenhouse, a dining room (which is very convenient, since it will be easy to arrange a hood, and the smells of food will definitely not penetrate into other rooms), a children's room, a bedroom, an office, a room for pets, a dressing room, a guest room.

Roof design options

The convenience of an attic for living largely depends on its size and the shape of the roof, which forms the walls and ceiling of the room. The complexity of the insulation procedure is also influenced by the shape. The type of roof is laid during construction in accordance with the design of the building.

In total, there are about a dozen types of roofing, to one degree or another suitable for arranging an attic:

• Single-pitch. The slope can be on the left or right side. This is determined by the scheme of the future house, developed in accordance with building codes. This type of roof is not the best, but also not the most inconvenient option for a living space. At least one half of the attic is suitable for a person to fit in it full height and could move freely. The second can be reserved for organizing storage systems or a bed.

• Gable or gable. Available in both symmetrical and asymmetrical versions. In an attic of this type, all free space is concentrated in the place where the roof has the highest point. There is less and less of it under the slopes, and if the slope is flat, then most of the area will not be used.
• Hip. A roof with four slopes: two in the shape of a trapezoid, two in the shape of beveled triangles.

• Tent. Variety hip roof, which is erected above the base of a square-shaped house. All 4 slopes in this case have the same appearance of beveled triangles.
• Half-hip. This is a type of two pitched roof, in which, for practical purposes, the side slopes on the pediment part are cut off. It is more convenient for arranging the attic floor than the previous two options.
• Half-hip is slightly less common hipped roof. Its pediment parts are formed by windows, and slopes are located under them.

• Mansard roof. It is considered optimal because it is closest to the cherished U-shaped shape of a living space. Such a roof does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement functional zones inside the attic floor. It can easily accommodate a child’s room, which can later be converted into his own office or bedroom.
• Broken or multi-pincer. These are options for complex design ideas. It is impossible to say unequivocally how suitable they are for arranging a warm attic, since their shape can be very diverse. But those types that are most similar to the U-shape are definitely suitable for this purpose.

Load calculation according to SNiP

When it comes to attic insulation, it is necessary to consider several types of SNiP: general rules for the arrangement of residential premises and the rules for choosing materials for thermal insulation of a residential building.

• Calculation of the load on the load-bearing structures of the building. The dead weight and thickness of materials, decorative finishes, and interior design of the attic significantly increase the load on supporting structures in any type of house. Each option has its own maximum permissible load, but planned changes should not exceed it.

• Correct assessment of erected structures. For the reconstruction of a house, which in many cases will include the conversion of an attic into a residential attic, legal grounds are needed. Each case is individual.

In one, if the documents are completed correctly and the construction of the house occurs immediately with the attic, it can be remodeled in any way without unnecessary red tape.

In a private house, the construction of an attic depends only on the height of the floors and compliance with load standards on supporting structures, in apartment building it is important to consider its status. If this is an architectural monument, the construction of an attic will not be legalized.

• Compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. They regulate the minimum height attic room, the degree of its illumination and insolation - protection from ultraviolet rays.
• Number of floors in the house. Building codes allow a maximum of three floors, with basements and basements that protrude more than a meter above the ground also counting. If, after insulating the attic, it becomes a full-fledged living space and the fourth floor in the house, then such a building will be considered illegal. In theory, it is subject to demolition.

• Fire resistance level. It is measured in minutes and in most positions is:

1. for lower floors 60 minutes,
2. for the attic - 30, since the fire spreads upward and the risk of fire on the lower floors from the attic is less.

When arranging an attic, especially a wooden one, as a living space, you need to meet all the requirements: treat the wood with special impregnations that prevent the spread of flame, choose fire-resistant materials, and lay out communications in a high-quality manner.

It is also important to calculate which layer is needed when using different materials. As a rule, the recommended thickness and density of polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or foam glass is indicated by the manufacturer or GOST for a specific material.

Review of materials: pros and cons

The materials themselves construction market offers in abundance. However, insulation alone is not enough, since The technology involves the layer-by-layer use of materials for various purposes:

• Material for roofing and walls. These are the elements from which the base of the attic space is formed. The walls of the house can be wooden, brick, block. For the roof, choose corrugated sheets, ondulin, slate, metal tiles or ceramic tiles.
• Bars for counter-lattice. The timber used is wooden and mounted on the rafters. The counter grille is necessary to create air circulation so that condensation does not form under sheet material roofs.

• Windproofing and waterproofing. Polypropylene and polyethylene films and various non-woven roll materials are used. Priority is given to films with anti-condensation coating. They are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm between the beams and the roofing material, and glued together.
• Thermal insulation. Various types of insulation, which are laid at a distance of 25 cm from the waterproofing film under slate or tiles, and 45-50 cm under sheet materials.
• Vapor barrier. It is necessary on the outside of the insulation to protect it from vapors and moisture contained in the indoor air. Various film and foil materials are used to prevent the formation of condensation and the greenhouse effect.

• Internal lathing. Decorative finishing ceiling and walls. In some cases, when the height of the roof allows, you can “hem” the ceiling. The air space between it and the roof will make thermal insulation more effective.

If there are no questions with most of the points, then the choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. Its choice is wide, which is both a plus and a minus, since it is necessary to evaluate a large number of options.

Insulate the attic:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• basalt type of wool;
• polyurethane foam plates (PPU);
• extruded foam;
• penoplex;
• foam glass;
• construction foam;
• foil and heat-reflecting material.

Using sawdust for thermal insulation is a proven and effective method. It is cheap, the mixtures are prepared by hand, but if available alternative materials the method is already outdated. A lot of time is spent, working with sawdust is clean, but unpleasant, and the flooring will not be durable. Ecological cleanliness in this case is most likely not beneficial, because wood fibers are an excellent medium for the reproduction of organisms.

Ordinary polystyrene foam is also a thing of the past. It has a number of advantages: light weight, low price, ease of installation alone, fairly long service life, good insulating properties. But the disadvantages are still significant: fragility and fragility, retains moisture inside, a suitable environment for the reproduction of living organisms, a thick layer of material is needed.

Mineral wool is a more relevant insulation material. Its advantages:

• high thermal insulation coefficient;
• resistant to moisture, chemicals and alkalis;
• provides good ventilation in room;
• helps improve sound insulation;
• high fire resistance coefficient;
• long service life;
• strength;
• safe for residential use.

Flaws:

• If the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers are poorly organized and precipitation gets on the material, mineral wool loses several percent of its thermal conductivity.
• Capable of accumulating dust over time.
• High-quality mineral wool is quite expensive, but is environmentally friendly. There are often fakes on the market in which the formaldehyde content exceeds the norm. They are harmful to health and are prohibited for use in residential areas.

Ecowool is essentially cellulose fibers, three-quarters of the composition, and the remaining share consists of substances that allow the use of cellulose as a building material - these are borax and boric acid. They increase the fire resistance of cotton wool and prevent the appearance of microorganisms, fungi, and rot.

The advantages include the good ability of the insulation to retain heat in the room, not to interfere with ventilation, high-quality insulating properties, natural and safe raw materials based on ecowool.

The material also has a disadvantage, and a significant one. Ecowool is not produced in the form of slabs or sheets, it is a loose fiber that must be applied wet method when using special equipment. And to work with the equipment you will need qualified installers.

In addition to ecowool, foreign manufacturers also offer other types of insulation based on plant fibers: eco-leen and cotton fabric insulation.

Another type of cotton wool is basalt. It is related to mineral. Since its components are present in the composition, but the basis of the material is basalt rock. Basalt imparts unique qualities to the material.

Its advantages:

• components of organic origin without formaldehyde and harmful resins;
• thermal insulation qualities, noise insulation;
• does not ignite, does not support combustion;
• biostable;
• the plates are convenient and easy to use;
• serves for decades.

Flaws:

• high cost of insulating a square meter with basalt slabs;
• absorbs moisture well.

The third type of wool – glass wool – has similar characteristics. It is more convenient to use because the material is rolled.

Extruded polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam combines the qualities and advantages of mineral boards and conventional foam plastic, thanks to a special production technology.

His performance characteristics mostly positive:

• lightweight but durable - this allows you to use it for insulation in large quantities, or simply work with it alone;
• the closed pores of the material are moisture resistant;
• easy to cut into fragments, it is unbreakable and does not crumble;
• does not arouse interest as a habitat for either fungi or rodents;
• low cost.

The disadvantages include: vapor permeability, low fire resistance.

The group of new generation gas-filled plastics also includes polyurethane foam (PPU). Its advantages make the material one of the best for insulating the attic floor: it is lightweight, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant, does not accumulate dust, does not attract living organisms, and is very durable.

There are two types: sheet and sprayed. Sheet material is very convenient in that it does not crumble during the cutting of fragments and the part fits closely to the part. The sprayed type of protection creates a monolithic layer under the roof, due to which it is not afraid of precipitation and cold. It also has good adhesion to various surfaces, is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms and allows installation work to be carried out in the shortest possible time.

The sprayed material creates better thermal insulation and helps muffle extraneous sounds, but it has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, application will require the expensive service of professionals with special equipment. Secondly, it is so dense that it “does not breathe.” Humid and stuffy air will accumulate in the room if it was not possible to organize additional ventilation.

It is advisable to use both types of polyurethane foam simultaneously. Large areas are covered with sheet material, and hard-to-reach places and crevices are sprayed. This will completely solve the problem of even the coldest attic.

Foam glass is a rarely used and unfairly relegated material to the background. The reason for this is simple - the very high price. Foam glass, as the name suggests, is produced by foaming glass fiber. The result is a porous (cellular) material that is absolutely insensitive to fire, safe, durable and meets all the requirements for insulation. If financial capabilities allow, then foam glass as thermal insulation should be considered first.

A separate group from plastic and glass derivatives are foil materials for insulating rooms from the inside. By themselves, they have a small thickness, so they are often combined with various variations of foamed cellular materials, which are located inside between two layers of foil.

The advantages of reflective materials are obvious:

• Light weight and small thickness. There is rarely an attic large sizes, especially considering that its dimensions are concealed by the shape of the roof, and a 20 mm foil sheet is much more practical than 200 mm foam.
• The material is easy to cut, does not crumble, and does not slip on the surface.
• There are options for self-adhesive sheets, in which one side is covered with a reflective layer and the other with an adhesive adhesive. They greatly simplify installation work.
• Foil is an excellent heat reflector. Thanks to its abilities, in the cold season the heat does not escape from the room, and in hot weather it remains outside.
• Reflective coatings are hydrophobic; they simply repel water.
• This is at the same time insulation from precipitation, dust, wind, and cold.
• Despite minimum thickness, copes with the function of sound insulation.
• Elastic and flexible.
• Biostable.
• They do not release toxins or formaldehyde when heated.
• Durable.

How to choose?

Choosing suitable insulation is an important stage in arranging a living space on the attic floor.

There are several important factors to consider:

• Taking into account climatic conditions. If the region is raging very coldy in the cold season, the insulation should be cellular or porous. Its structure allows warm air fill empty spaces and keep the room warm. This works like PVC profiles and double glazing on windows. The more layers of cells, the better material, so the layer thickness should be more than 1-2 cm.
• For regions with high humidity, the hydrophobicity of the material comes first. All types of cotton wool are undesirable here, but derivatives of polyethylene and plastic will be just right. You can safely use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
• At large quantities precipitation in winter, which puts a load on the roof, lightweight materials are preferred. For example, foam and foil.

• Accounting for moisture and fire resistance indicators. Even if the climate is not full of rain, protecting the insulation from moisture is very important. Wet material ceases to perform its functions, as its thermal conductivity changes, and gains weight.
• As for fire safety, it is rather compliance with all SNiP standards. Choosing a fire-resistant material is not difficult. Most manufacturers add substances called fire retardants to organic raw materials for the production of insulation. They prevent the spread of fire.

• The ability of a material to hold its shape. Measured as modulus of elasticity and resistance to deformation. It depends on this whether it will create monolithic, reliable protection or will begin to sag and drafts and ventilated places will appear in the room. The undisputed leaders in this regard are not sheet materials, but sprayed materials.
• Material coefficients for several characteristics: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, sound insulation index.
• Composition of the substance. To furnish a living room in the attic, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly materials, without resins, formaldehydes and toxic substances. Various impregnations are acceptable if their availability meets the requirements of GOST.

The type of materials used to finish the roof also matters.

Under metal tiles

It is correct to insulate the attic ceiling under such material using a layer that is not afraid of moisture. The design and installation features of metal tiles are such that water can get under them. It is optimal here to use foam materials based on plastic or glass, but if the choice fell on mineral wool, it is important to take care good layer waterproofing.

It is also necessary to choose a material with an anti-condensation coating. After condensation reaches a certain temperature, it will also turn into water, which is dangerous for the insulating layer. The problem can be solved using polypropylene films, geotextile coatings and superdiffuse membranes.

The disadvantages of metal tiles include the fact that their unusual shape allows precipitation to accumulate between the layers of the coating, which is almost impossible to make completely airtight. This will help mitigate the damage as much as possible. high-quality ventilation under the roof. Natural in this case may not be enough; it is necessary to arrange a forced one.

Such problems also apply to ceramic relief coating and slate sheets. They all have the same shape, which does not allow the sheets to fit tightly.

Under corrugated sheets

It is less problematic in terms of leaks and condensation, since the sheets fit more tightly, and the joints are treated with sealant and paint. But the material has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is very cold and the insulation must be of high quality and impressive in thickness. Secondly, when it rains, it is very noisy under a corrugated roof; you need a material with high sound absorption rates.

From the list suitable materials It is necessary to exclude thin foil sheets, fiberglass, and cellulose insulation of the eco-friendly type. Their thickness and sound insulation performance are insufficient to ensure comfortable living in the attic under corrugated roofing.

For the attic above the bathhouse

Along with the type of roofing materials, you need to take into account the location of the attic: either it is located above all the living spaces, or above part of the house.

One of the problematic options is the attic above the bathhouse. With this location, it is difficult to arrange a living space in it. It is more suitable for a relaxation room, a small living room or a play corner, which is necessary after bath procedures.

The main difficulty when choosing materials lies in the microclimate of the room above the bathhouse, which is different from the microclimate above living rooms. The temperature and humidity conditions in it are unstable, and the possibility of condensation is very high. Of course, under such conditions, neither sawdust, nor cotton wool, nor environmental insulation based on cellulose are suitable. This requires hydrophobic materials such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, foil coatings, good vapor barrier and forced ventilation.

Winter living houses

A universal solution for attic insulation winter accommodation does not exist. It all depends on the climatic conditions and materials used in the construction of the house.

Long and harsh winters - solid, porous, temperature-resistant insulation. Warm climate - any suitable roofing material.

In private wooden house Due to the properties of wood, thin insulation is sufficient to retain heat. Materials based on cellulose, glass or plastic are also suitable. You can use foil ones with a minimum thickness.

In brick houses with roofs made of corrugated sheets, tiles or slate, additional insulation in the form of air spaces is required. These can be dense porous materials and several layers between them. Insulation frame house does not require special effort, since its design already provides for all the features of specific climatic conditions. Any moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are suitable here.

How to insulate with your own hands?

The technology for creating thermal insulation in the attic is also available to non-professionals. The key to success is not experience installation work, but in the correct selection of material, sequential execution of actions to create a continuous insulated contour and accuracy.

The procedure is as follows:

• Calculation permissible load and optimal material thickness.
• Selection of materials and necessary tools (including safety equipment).
• Preparation of the premises: cleaning, dust removal, treatment of wooden structures with protective impregnations.
• Installation of sheathing. This is an important and mandatory step that amateurs skip out of ignorance. Thermal insulation of an attic without sheathing and counter-lattice is considered a gross mistake. It is nailed from the inside over the entire roof area.
• Laying a waterproofing film or diffuse membrane. The fastening should not be tight; it is better to let the material sag a little. The sheets are overlapped (15-25cm) and secured with tape or foil. A gap of 20 to 50 cm is required between the membrane and the sheathing.
• Installation of insulation. The methods are different, depending on the type of material and the location of the rafters. Rolled material can be attached with a slight overlap and fixed with tape or a stapler. Sheet insulation for finishing the roof and walls is laid closely, taking into account slight shrinkage in the future. The connection is made as close as possible, the seams are treated with tape. You can use screws and nails for very dense materials.

It is important to fit well in the corners of the gable and in such difficult areas as the ridge, valley, and overhangs. To do this, small parts of the material are used, separated by hand.

Particular attention is paid to the contour of the windows. The room will remain cold if warm air escapes through the cracks near the window.

The sequence is as follows: insulation of the roof, ceilings, pediment, partitions, walls. The floor can be insulated both before and after.

Floor insulation is more variable, since it is less affected by precipitation, winds and frost.

This can be dry backfill, sawdust, or mineral wool:

• Installation of vapor barrier. It is laid overlapping, like a membrane, and fixed in different ways. As a rule, there is a line on the material marking the width of the junction of two sheets.
• Lathing if necessary.
• Decorative finishing.

Common mistakes

The correct thermal pie for roof insulation is installed in compliance with many nuances.

Non-professionals often make the same mistakes that affect the quality of attic insulation:

• lack of ventilation gap from the ceiling to the membrane. As a result, the insulation freezes and stops working;
• severe sagging of the membrane - this reduces the gap required for ventilation and leads to the formation of condensation;
• attempts to save on insulating materials, laying them without the necessary joints, as a result of which gaps are formed and heat comes out, warming the roof, not the room;

• compacting the material to such an extent that it warps and wrinkles, losing its properties;
• unlined cornices - this leads to the fact that precipitation has free access to the insulation and saturates it with moisture;
• lack of ventilation;
• absence of adhesive tape or tape at the joints of sheet material.

1. Use hard and dense materials or spraying. They are better fixed and do not deform in the process.
2. Increasing the distance between the attic ceiling and the top point of the ridge will create an “air cushion” and improve the quality of the warm circuit.
3. It is better to leave a gap for ventilation not only between the sheathing and the membrane, but also between the membrane and the insulation.

There are many people who strive to create a high-quality and comfortable attic. But it is impossible to achieve this task without reliable insulation. And therefore, special attention should be paid to various options for insulating materials and the features of their application.

Peculiarities

At the dacha and in country house We always try to provide maximum comfort and convenience. Therefore, quite often rooms for winter living are equipped in the attic floor, which was initially not intended for human life at all. And this creates a number of differences from an ordinary wooden house with a cold attic.

Unlike any other rooms in a private frame house, the attic gets very hot in the summer and cooled in the winter. Not a single room, even one with a large glass area, has such a problem. The geometry of the walls duplicates the external contours of the attic roof with all its slopes, and therefore you will have to abandon the use of any bulk insulation. Yes, and soft roll options, prone to rapid rolling, are also not suitable. It is very important to use the most effective insulating material so that a relatively thin and light layer of it fulfills its purpose without putting excessive pressure on the rafters and walls.

In case of unheated room there are some additional nuances. The subfloor is attached to the joists from below, and you will have to agree with this circumstance - after all, the front surface of the floor will be attached to the top. Next comes the vapor barrier and, in fact, insulation material. Even experts cannot finally come to a consensus on whether to install waterproofing. Floor boards thinner than 4 cm simply do not make sense; even under the slenderest and lightest people they will sag.

Which insulation to choose?

There is a huge variety of insulation on the market, and while not all are suitable for protecting attic walls from the inside, almost any can be put into the floor “pie”. But you need to take into account the properties of a particular substance and the structures created from it, first of all, the level of thermal protection.

The choice of insulation for the attic is very complicated, and if you have the slightest difficulty with it, you should consult with professionals. However, taking into account the well-known properties, pros and cons of each option, you can make a decision in most cases on your own.

For many decades now, foam plastic has been widely used to insulate various structures. Under normal conditions this component:

• does not saturate the air with toxic substances;
• eliminates contamination by microorganisms and their biological decomposition;
• simultaneously performs the function of vapor barrier in the room;
• has very low mass;
• It has an affordable price and lasts as long as insulated buildings.

But we cannot fail to mention the weaknesses of such thermal protection. Thus, low density results in insufficient mechanical strength. If nitro paint gets on the surface of the foam, it is destroyed quite quickly. This material is not ventilated, which can create a number of problems in the attic. It can also harbor mice or other rodents; Only a reliable outer layer helps to resist their invasion, but it burdens the structure and makes it thicker.

A considerable part of people use polyurethane foam (PPU), which is better than conventional polystyrene foam in a number of respects. But the use of this insulation will be correct only if a number of harmful myths. The experience of using it in this capacity goes back more than half a century, and during all this time, residents of houses with polyurethane insulation have no reason to be angry. Any person, unless he has an extremely large build, can easily walk on a floor insulated with polyurethane foam. The main thing is that the shoes are soft and do not have sharp heels or other protruding elements.

Do not confuse polyurethane foam, which is placed in “pies” of floor coverings, with polyurethane foam. Chemical composition they are close, but that’s where the similarities end. When a rigid material polymerizes, closed cells are formed in it, allowing a phenomenally high level of thermal insulation to be achieved. It will not be possible to provide the same with improvised materials or even with any other factory products. There are, however, factors due to which polyurethane foam has not yet replaced (and will never replace) other types of insulation:

• it should not be placed where ultraviolet radiation may act;
• It is unacceptable to use even the best types of polyurethane foam in contact with very hot surfaces or near an open fire;
• Heat loss figures promised by manufacturers refer to an ideal product highest density(and it’s very difficult to create one);
• over time, the effectiveness of thermal protection decreases due to the replacement of the gas filler with air;
• The highest adhesion is guaranteed, but not for surfaces that are completely unprepared.

Other insulation materials are often used for the attic. If polyurethane foam is the result of progress, then sawdust insulation has been practiced for many centuries. The obvious advantages of this method are its accessibility to people, the low cost of the material and the ability to independently control the quality of the finished layer.

To improve the quality of the material, it is treated with boric acid or a solution copper sulfate, mixed with lime, gypsum and cement. Then there will be no harmful animals inside, and the risk of fire will also be eliminated.

Natural origin sawdust insulation allows us to consider them as safe as their “progenitor” - wood. Pre-conditioning for 12 months and thorough drying of the material is required. If wiring runs through insulated walls, floors or ceilings, it is placed in fireproof enclosures. The big problem is that even properly processed sawdust will crumble over time. Therefore, they are not very suitable for insulating walls and other vertical surfaces.

The use of mineral wool for a residential attic is attractive simply because this method of thermal protection simultaneously reduces the penetration of extraneous sounds from the outside. Such insulation does not burn and does not change its configuration when the temperature changes sharply. Mineral wool has no tendency to be destroyed by caustic substances; it is not eaten by animals and bacteria.

When the insulation comes into contact with metals, corrosion does not occur. It is relatively easy to process the material, but if condensation forms, all of it will end up in the insulation layer.

Ecowool also competes with mineral (basalt) wool. It is produced from pulp industry waste and recycled materials, so this method of thermal protection is quite acceptable in terms of environmental characteristics. Fresh ecowool holds heat well, but after a short time its quality deteriorates. This is caused by mechanical settling of the material, so it is advisable to lay it in excess. Extruded polystyrene foam is completely free of such drawbacks.

In the vast majority of cases, it is combined with plasterboard sheathing. From the outside, this material is protected using:

• siding;
• brick;
• aluminum or steel profiles;
• ceramic tiles laid in a joint.

Polystyrene should be used with caution - it can easily catch fire if in contact with an open flame or at high temperatures. It is advisable to choose those options that are treated in production with special components that effectively suppress ignition. But when using penoplex, as the manufacturer promises, water absorption is excluded and maintenance is guaranteed. comfortable conditions in room.

The strength and uniformity of the coating allows it not to crumble or collapse even under strong mechanical stress. Builders can forget about using protective masks and gloves (which is unthinkable when working with glass wool).

Returning again from the latest technological advances to traditional materials, we cannot help but say about expanded clay insulation. In terms of its composition, it is represented by oval-shaped granules obtained from baked clay or expanded clay sand. Depending on the production technology, expanded clay with a density of 250-600 kg per 1 cubic meter can be obtained. m. It retains heat perfectly and, in addition, prevents the development of microorganisms and the establishment of rodents.

U-shaped pierced mats are made mainly on the basis of stone wool. They inherit its positive properties: zero fire danger, resistance to harmful substances, excellent heat retention and resistance to extreme heat. Thanks to the adaptation to the type of surface, this roll material is perfectly combined with flexible tiles. Even glass wool is not capable of holding the same amount of air per unit volume as tufted mats. Its reliability is evidenced by its constant use at nuclear power plants.

Continuing the review, it is impossible not to mention different types foil insulation. Most often in practice you can find foamed polyethylene - this self-adhesive coating will help protect chimneys, smoke and ventilation pipes in the attic from heat leakage. Mineral wool is sometimes combined with foil; it is also intended for insulating smoke ducts and roofing.

If such a shell is used for polystyrene foam (necessarily double-sided), it can withstand heating up to 170 degrees. Mainly it is intended to reduce heat losses in heated floors.

Another type of foil insulation is penofol. With its help, it is easy to stop heat loss through the floor, walls and roof. Reflective insulation only works effectively when redundant free space, and there must be at least five layers of air. But you should be careful about using polynore. This material is essentially no different from polyurethane foam, although some manufacturers say that it is of the same quality as foil options.

Its vapor barrier and waterproofing properties are zero. It is much more practical to use fiberglass. It must be taken into account that its panels should not move under their own weight or under the influence of other factors, therefore the thermal protection will have to be installed very carefully.

If we return to foil materials, it is difficult to ignore foil isolon. It allows you to leave 95% of the heat inside, does not freeze in winter and is not prone to drying out in summer. If the installation is done correctly, the service life of the material is very long.

The selection of insulation for metal tiles has its own characteristics. To solve this problem they widely use:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool.

It is advisable to work just at the moment of building the roof. After all, you need to stuff and attach the material from the inside. An alternative to the three listed means is an insulating board, also known as soft fiberboard. This coating will provide reliable sound insulation (in addition to the main function). Air accounts for up to 4/5 of the total volume of thermal protection.

How to calculate?

Having chosen one or another material, you need to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The standards for such calculations are defined in SNiP 02/23/2003. The lowest value of thermal resistance established for a specific area is reduced by the value of the thermal resistance of the material. You can calculate it by taking the coefficient from the table and the required thickness. When the walls are formed of several materials, what the thermal insulation should be is calculated by summing up their indicators.

Methods

Seamless insulation involves the use of sprayed materials. Most often, polyurethane foam is used in this technique. It is necessary to combat the appearance of dampness. Spraying polyurethane foam near open fire or heat sources can be life-threatening! These disadvantages are offset by resistance to chemicals, extreme cold and mechanical stress. Combined attic insulation can be carried out using both sprayed and slab and roll materials.

Additional double insulation is a type of combined insulation; it is used if it is necessary to enhance protection against heat loss. Then the existing sheathing is turned into a base, a ventilation gap is left after it, and then a membrane is placed, an insulating material. Then comes the turn of new vapor barrier and sheathing options. As an option, you can make a warm film floor under the casing.

It is important to check that the roof “pie” does not have cold bridges or other deviations from the norm.

How to insulate?

For external insulation attic (increasing the thermal protection of its roof), it is allowed to use only dense slab materials. Most craftsmen recommend using penoplex in this case, since it performs very well in this capacity. By nailing a board equal in width to the insulation to the rafters, you can prevent it from sliding down. The layout of the slabs should be done in a checkerboard pattern. To create the sheathing, bars are used; their thickness cannot be less than 4 cm.

Experienced repairmen have long developed a technology for insulating the attic from the inside and strictly follow it. In order for the top of the thermal insulation to be covered from moisture, you need to go around all the wooden beams and attach a special film using a stapler or vertically directed slats. It is laid in layers with an overlap, fastening is done with special tape. Then a sheathing is created, which is made from slats 80-100 mm wide placed parallel to each other on the rafters.

When working, it is recommended to monitor whether the rafters sag under load and whether the surface is smooth. Deformations are detected during inspections building level, and if they are, you need to take a plane. When the sheathing is ready, you can insulate it yourself by placing basalt mats inside. The width of an individual mat should correspond to the gap between the rafters, and the thickness should correspond to their width. If the mat is very thick, the thermal insulation is placed in several layers.

Next comes the vapor barrier of the ceiling - it is provided by polyethylene films, glassine or roofing felt. When attaching such materials to the rafters, glue is applied or slats are stuffed in increments of 0.4-0.5 m.

It is recommended to seal each seam of the film with construction tape. Where the climate is very cold, it would be correct to install a vapor barrier in the gaps of the insulation itself. When all this work is completed, it’s time for installation. decorative panels, becoming the front decoration of the walls.

Sometimes the sheathing is neglected. In such cases, you should screw the following to the bars themselves or to the steel profile stuffed from the inside onto the rafters:

• plywood;
• siding;
• drywall;
• other selected material.

In cases where the walls of the attic are also parts of its roof, there is no particular need to insulate them. The difference between insulating walls and working on the ceiling is the need to always do lathing. The thermal protection scheme for the floor covering forms a whole “pie”: vapor barrier below, insulation above. In this case, there is no way to do without waterproofing; there is insulation above it, occupying the space between the beams. The work is completed by attaching chipboard or high-quality boards.

It is necessary to protect the attic from heat loss, even when it is used only in the warm months. Since even the most reliable structures can fail, you need to take care of selecting waterproof material. Then suddenly leaky roof fragments will no longer be a serious danger to the house and the property in it. An equally significant circumstance is resistance to fire, especially for insulation in heated attics and near chimneys. According to experts, the best solution for a warm attic room is glass wool.

Plasticity allows it to fit into the gaps between the rafters, without leaving the slightest free areas. Accordingly, streams of cold air will not rush down, depriving the residents of the house of much-deserved warmth. IN middle lane RF cotton materials must be laid in a layer of 15 cm, and construction rules in cold climates require doubling this value. Any type of “cotton wool”, according to the unofficial procedure developed among developers, should be installed only together with a vapor barrier.

The first step when working will be tensioning waterproofing membrane, which is held on the rafters using slats. The gap between stretched films and roofing materials is at least 30 mm; any wrinkles or folds on the membrane are unacceptable. Particular mention should be made of the installation of gable insulation in the attic mansard type. It is advisable to produce it not inside, but outside. At internal insulation the dew point will be shifted into the internal space, and the whole meaning of the work will be lost - the wall will freeze deeper and stronger than before.

Preparing the walls of the gables step by step begins with cleaning them from dust and dirt, then the base needs to be primed. A special primer will improve the adhesion of the glue to the surface. Experts recommend applying it in a couple of layers.

Not a single residential attic can do without a counter-lattice - if builders start saying that you can refuse it, this immediately speaks negatively about their professionalism. Both in the gables and in the main part of the attic, it is necessary to insulate the windows and the places where they adjoin the walls.

Every homeowner should know the specifics of this work, because many performers violate the sequence of actions and get a bad result.

There is very little space in the slopes (upper and lower) for laying thermal insulation material. It is advisable to order windows that go deep into the roof. Many experts consider the best solution stone wool and other insulation materials with the highest level of thermal protection. Regardless specific choice, it is necessary to install waterproofing.

Another problem area on the second floor is the corners. At oblique angles, the heat insulator is attached, giving it the required shape in advance. When the work is completed, the insulated surface is carefully checked to promptly notice the appearance of cracks. If they are detected, a strip of insulation, which is 10 mm wider than the identified defect, should be placed flat on the problem area. Insulation between the first floor and the attic bulk materials implies filling with them the free space between beams or beams to the very top. A film is installed on top and attached to the structural elements.

Instructions for effective attic insulation allow you to install everything necessary materials and designs for the owner of the house himself. You can only work outside in warm and cloudless weather, because the slightest moisture that gets on the roofing elements and parts of the “pie” can lead to unpleasant consequences. If roll materials are chosen, it makes sense to wait until summer and start repairs. Mounting them from below is very inconvenient and impractical; the number of errors inevitably increases.

Insulation of complex structures

Thermal insulation of a sloping attic roof has its own characteristics. 100% wood must be impregnated with special antiseptics and fire retardants. Each part located on the street side should be treated only with compounds for external use. But these mixtures are not suitable for impregnating wood indoors - if they are used, it will be possible to fight the bad odor for many years. The space under the roof must be equipped with ventilation gaps to prevent moisture stagnation.

In many cases, waterproofing under broken roofs is not applied until it is even, but rather, allowing it to sag by 30-50 mm. The choice between such approaches is a matter for professionals who know when it will ensure water flow and when it will not.

At independent work you need to do everything in the usual way and not try to invent original schemes. Care should be taken to ensure that all insulating materials are correctly laid in several planes at once.

Common mistakes

Even qualified builders are not 100% insured against mistakes, and if a particular team has only positive reviews, you still need to carefully monitor its work. If, nevertheless, mistakes were made, very soon they will appear characteristic features improper insulation of the attic, and the first enemy of any homeowner is condensation. It is unacceptable to interrupt the vapor barrier line along the entire outer surface attic, and each area where its fragments meet must be glued with masking tape. The biggest mistake when condensation appears is to seal all the cracks.

If you do this, it will stop dripping and will begin to flow in full-fledged streams. It is useless to deal with the problem of a leaking roof and accumulating liquid, blocking the path of water.

You need to turn to professionals for help and not just consult, but call them to inspect the attic, preferably with a thermal imager in hand. If a return pipe of the heating system is laid in an unheated attic, insulation and waterproofing should be done, and a vapor barrier is necessary in exactly the same way as in a heated space.

Well, for those who still decide to insulate the attic themselves, a set of recommendations and tips presented in the following video will help.

not uncommon today. Increasing useful square meters using the attic is the easiest way. But in order for it to last throughout the year, the roof will have to be insulated. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to insulate an attic from the inside if the roof is already covered with roofing material. Let's figure out what thermal insulation materials can be used for this and what technologies to use for this.

And although many people believe that the attic is a type of attic, in fact, it is a completely different room, which differs in size from the first. And the main one is height. It must be at least 2.5 m.

In all other respects, this is an attic space, enclosed by a rafter system with a roof laid on it. If the roof is gable, then the attic is enclosed on both sides by gables - vertical walls supporting the rafter structure. It is in them that doors with access to the adjacent balcony are made. But the main walls of the room are the roof of the house with a certain slope of the slopes.

The technology for assembling the rafter system and roofing material is that it is necessary to lay between them, protecting wooden structures from unexpected leaks from the side of the roofing. This is a kind of safety net. On roofs, roll-type waterproofing material is mainly used, which is laid in strips from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 20-30 cm and attached to the rafter legs. The film is laid with a slight slack in case of thermal tension or expansion, plus the edges of adjacent strips must be secured with tape or self-adhesive tape.

Then they are stuffed along the rafters wooden slats, which are called counter-lattice, and transverse slats, called lathing, are mounted on them. It fits on the latter roofing material with fastening.

View from the inside of the attic - these are the rafters covered on top waterproofing layer. This is the design that will be needed. The question of how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands, we emphasize - with your own hands - requires first of all the determination of the insulation, or rather, its selection. Because not all modern thermal insulation materials can be used independently. But we will deal with them all, and we will definitely identify the best one.

Insulation for attic roofs

It should be noted that the slope of the slopes that define the walls of the attic is a cellular structure formed by rafter legs. It is between them that the thermal insulation material will need to be laid. Therefore, the main requirement for the latter is to be dense with clear shapes. This means that to insulate the attic roof of a private house, you will need to choose a slab material. Such insulation materials include mineral wool in mats and polystyrene foam boards, also known as high-density foam.

But, as mentioned above, today the market offers completely unique insulation technologies that do not use dense materials. One of them, which has shown itself on the most positive side, is liquid polyurethane foam. Let's start in order and consider each insulation separately.

Mineral wool

The definition of mineral wool includes several varieties of this building material: glass wool, slag wool, stone variety. When the conversation turns to attic insulation, we should talk specifically about the basalt variety, as the best today. It is its technical characteristics that we will consider.

Basically, basalt wool is divided by density. There are four positions here:

• P-75– used for insulation of pipes and horizontal surfaces;
• P-125– this is exactly the same material that is used to insulate attic walls from the inside with your own hands;
• PZh-175– for thermal insulation of metal and structures;
• PPZh-200- Very dense material, used for thermal insulation of rigid load-bearing structures.

Expanded polystyrene boards

This material is often called polystyrene foam, which is true. It’s just that polystyrene foam boards differ in density from the type that is used for packaging. Therefore, the material itself is very hard and durable, resistant to mechanical stress and humidity.

Let us immediately make a reservation that such material is not recommended for insulation due to its high flammability and love of rodents. But if you still intend to use it, then to insulate the attic roof it is better to take polystyrene foam boards with a density of at least 25 kg/m³.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is a two-component thermal insulation material consisting of a polyol and a polyisocyanate. The two components are supplied separately in different containers, but during the application process they are mixed in one container and applied under pressure to the insulation areas through a hose and sprayer. In essence, polyurethane foam is liquid substance, which quickly hardens in air, turning into a hard and fairly durable coating.

The quality of insulation is based on the thermal conductivity characteristic. Comparing the three types, it can be noted that the weakest among them is mineral wool, the most ideal is polyurethane foam.

But this does not mean that everyone should use PPU. This material is not the cheapest and requires special equipment to apply it. However, it should be noted that equipment manufacturers today offer mini-stations that weigh only 30 kg. It contains two containers with components, hoses and a nozzle. The compressor will need to be purchased separately, but it is better to rent it from friends or rent.

And several more types of thermal insulation materials, which are used less frequently when insulating a roof from the inside with your own hands.

Glass wool

Ecowool

Penofol

How to insulate an attic for winter living - video and nuances of the process

So, we’ve decided on thermal insulation materials. Now let's look at how to properly insulate an attic roof.

Attention! When insulating an attic, it is necessary to adhere to two main nuances: the thickness of the layer being laid should be equal to the width of the rafter legs, the width of the insulation should be equal to slightly greater than the distance between the rafters.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside: video and photo instructions

Photo	Description of work
	The mineral wool is laid out on the attic floor. The required width is measured, which corresponds to the distance between the rafters, plus 2-3 cm. This is done so that the insulation fits tightly between the elements of the rafter system without leaving.
	Now a piece of insulation cut to the required dimensions must be laid between the rafter legs. If the slope of the roof slope is sufficiently flat, then the heat-insulating material under its own weight may fall out of the cell.
	Therefore, transverse slats are placed along the rafters from the inside, which are temporarily attached to the rafter legs.
	Instead of slats, you can use a strong thread, which is pulled over nails driven in a checkerboard pattern along the inner planes of the rafter legs.
	Insulation is laid under the padded slats.
	All that remains is to close the insulating pie waterproofing film. Its purpose is to keep moist air vapors from penetrating the thermal insulation layer. Because mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, and under the influence of humidity it begins to lose its properties.
	The waterproofing membrane is nailed with nails or metal staples to the rafter legs. Laying is carried out in overlapping stripes, starting from bottom to top.

Attention! If one layer of mineral wool for insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands is not enough to cover the width of the rafter legs, then a two-layer installation is performed. In this case, the slabs of material must be laid offset relative to each other. The joints between slabs in one layer should not be allowed to coincide with the joints in the second layer.

Insulating the attic with foam plastic

As mentioned above, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam boards to insulate the attic. One of their main advantages is low, almost zero, water absorption. Therefore, there is no need to install protective layers for this insulation. That is, if during the construction of the roof a hydro- or vapor barrier membrane was not used under the roofing material, then PP slabs are the cheapest option for thermal insulation.

Photo	Description of work
	As in the case of mineral wool, polystyrene foam boards are cut to fit the distance between the rafters.
	The slabs, cut to size, are laid in the rafter system. It is necessary to indicate that there should be a space between the insulation and the roofing material, which will be used in the future as a means of removing not only moist air vapors, but also some harmful components of the heat-insulating material itself. Without forming this gap, PP cannot be laid.
	Another layer is laid on top of the rafters. Its main task is to cover the entire surface and prevent cold air from passing between the first layer and the rafters, because it is very difficult to lay PP boards tightly to the rafter structure. The second layer is attached to the rafters using self-tapping screws with a wide metal washer.

It is very important to mix the insulation components correctly; their ratio should be 1:1.

Insulation of roofs of different geometries

The methods of thermal insulation of a pitched roof, in which the slope is one plane, were described above. But attics are also formed under sloping roofs, so the question of insulating a sloping roof from the inside is no less relevant today. In principle, there are no serious differences in the technology itself, especially when it comes to the use of polyurethane foam. It is simply sprayed in one layer, without joints.

A sloping roof has a junction of two types of rafters, which form a hall. It is this area that is the most dangerous in terms of the penetration of cold air from the outside. Therefore, in the area where the two systems are connected, it is necessary to lay insulation materials without butts. This works best if mineral wool is used. It is flexible, so it can be shaped into a bend, that is, a transition from one slope to another.

With a sloping roof, the attic space is rarely left without a ceiling. It is built precisely at the transition level. Therefore, two slopes located in the same transitional plane are insulated, and then the ceiling itself is necessarily insulated. In some cases, if it is difficult to carry out thermal insulation of the upper slope or the goal is to save money, then the thermal insulation of the upper slope is not carried out, limiting itself to insulating the ceiling.

What mistakes can occur when insulating an attic from the inside?

When answering the question of how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside of an attic space with your own hands, you need to understand that in itself this process simple (except for the use of polyurethane foam). But in order for the final result to correspond to a high degree of quality, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the technology and strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. So, what to pay attention to:

1. Mineral wool should only be laid if there is a vapor barrier underneath the roofing material. Its main purpose is to remove air vapors that are located in the insulation itself.
2. Between the insulation cake and roofing covering There must be a gap left, which is used for ventilation of the roof. Therefore, the roofing material is laid on the sheathing, which is mounted on the counter-lattice.
3. If the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 13°, then it is better not to organize an attic under such a roof. at this angle it comes off weakly, so there is a high probability of leaks.
4. If roof windows are installed on the roof slopes, then you need to take care of them sealed installation. It’s better not to do this yourself; call specialists.
5. If the thickness of the purchased insulation is greater than the width of the rafter legs, then slats can be punched along the lower edges of the latter.

So, we looked at how to properly insulate the roof of a private house from the attic side. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments. The editors of our site will definitely answer them.

The attic is the favorite home of poets, artists, artists and creative people. Thanks to new building materials, the attic floor can be used as a room under the roof as a living or utility room(zones) not only in summer, but also in winter (for winter living). Abroad, well-designed and decorated attics even fall into the category of bohemian housing.

In modern housing construction, an attic is not just an equipped warm attic, it is effective method increase the functional space of a residential building. It is noteworthy that, in accordance with urban planning standards, the attic is taken into account when determining the number of storeys of a building.

Advantages of an insulated attic:

• saving on the cost of materials during the construction of a residential building;
• arrangement of functional additional space;
• original appearance of a private house with an attic;
• reduction of heat loss through the under-roof space.

Disadvantages include: sloping ceilings, the need for additional insulation, difficulties with rational organization living space.

Most of the disadvantages of an attic are completely removable and, with the right approach, become advantages.

Preparing to insulate the attic

A specific feature of the attic is the presence sloping ceiling. Moreover, according to SNiP 2.08.01-89 “Residential Buildings”, the height of the attic floor cannot be lower than 2.5 m. It is allowed to reduce the height in an area not exceeding 50% of the total area of ​​the room.

Other features of the attic include:

• dependence of heat loss on the material from which the house is built: wood, cellular concrete, brick or a combination of them;
• addiction engineering systems attics from existing ones in the house. This leaves imprints on technical solutions on the arrangement of communications;
• diversity architectural forms: sloping, single, gable roof;
• diversity constructive solutions. Material for production load-bearing elements attics can be wood, metal, reinforced concrete;
• specifics of the location. The attic can be located within the building area or extend beyond its boundaries, supported by columns or a cantilevered extension of the interfloor ceiling.

Thus, when deciding how to insulate an attic for winter living, you need to proceed from the design features.

Please note that it is correct to carry out work on insulation of a residential building or apartment outside the premises, because... This approach ensures that the freezing point shifts towards the insulation mounted on the outside of the wall.

However, insulating the attic from the inside is a widespread option, because... all surfaces that are subject to insulation are located inside the attic (room) floor - ceiling, floor and walls. The exception is the pediment, which can be insulated as part of the attic insulation or along with the insulation of the entire house.

Factors affecting the thermal insulation of the attic

Professionals identify two key factors that have a significant impact on the level of heat loss and operational characteristics of the attic after insulation work has been completed.

• Firstly, it is a thermal insulation material. Taking into account the fact that the attic floor is the coldest room in the house, and it is intended to insulate the attic with your own hands, you need to carefully approach the choice of insulation.

• Secondly, it is a waterproofing film. It is precisely this that is designed to protect the insulation from moisture entering the attic premises from the outside (outside), through the roofing material, and from the inside, through the floor.

Which insulation for the attic is better to choose?

To insulate the attic of a house, you can use any heat-insulating material that has proven itself in practice.

Among the most popular materials are: cotton wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and their varieties. It should be remembered that insulation for the attic is selected taking into account factors inherent to a particular house and taking into account the level of skill of the person who will install the insulating material.

The characteristics that determine the suitability of insulation for use in a particular case are given in the table.

Insulation	Stiffness (compressive strength)	Thermal conductivity	Hygroscopicity	Shrinkage	Weight	Installation on a broken roof	Price
Mineral wool (basalt insulation)	-	-	+	+	-	+	100-140 rub/sq.m.
Glass wool (synthetic insulation)	-	-	+	+	-	+	70-80 rub/sq.m.
Penofol (foil insulation)	-	-	-	-	-	+	40-50 rub/sq.m.
Ecowool (cellulose insulation)	-	-	+	-	-	+	23-35 rub/kg
Polyurethane foam (PU foam)	+	-	-	-	-	+	170-212 rub/kg
Styrofoam	+	-	-	-	-	-	2560-3200 rub/m3
Expanded polystyrene (penoplex)	+	-	-	-	-	-	3500-5000 rub/m3

Material prepared for the website www.site

How to insulate an attic from the inside

Features of the use of insulation of different types and types.

Soft thermal insulation materials:

• Insulating an attic with mineral wool requires careful selection and use of films. Thus, the main disadvantage of cotton wool can be eliminated - its hygroscopicity. The second, less significant disadvantage is slight rigidity, which can be eliminated by securely fixing the cotton wool, as well as the use of denser varieties. This prevents sagging of the wool. Nevertheless, thanks to the environmental friendliness of the components, insulating the attic with mineral wool from the inside continues to hold its leading position;

• Insulating an attic with glass wool is rarely done due to the fact that glass wool is an unsafe material from an environmental point of view. Plus, it creates installation difficulties;

• insulation of the attic with penofol. It is used when it is necessary to insulate without significant losses in the height of the room. In order for penofol to perform its functions, the material must be oriented with a foil layer into the room.

Rigid thermal insulation materials:

• insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam. An excellent and easy-to-install option, which has the disadvantage of incomplete adhesion of the sheets to the sheathing. Due to this, a space unfilled with insulation appears and the insulation efficiency decreases. In addition, polystyrene foam is flammable and releases toxic substances when burned. And finally, rigid insulation does not allow steam to pass through well. The popularity of polystyrene foam is due to its low price;

• Insulation of the attic with expanded polystyrene (penoplex) is similar to insulation with polystyrene foam. The difference lies in the presence of a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which, in fairness, does not play an important role in insulating the attic. And also in the greater density of the material itself.

Note that breathable soft insulation will good option, if necessary, insulate the wooden attic.

Sprayed thermal insulation materials:

• insulation of the attic with ecowool. The material is 80% cellulose and 20% wood. Contains a natural antiseptic. This is a completely environmentally friendly material;
• insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam (PPU).

The widespread distribution of sprayed insulation is hampered by their high price, as well as the need to attract specialists and use special equipment. At the same time, as consumer reviews indicate, the price is justified high level thermal insulation. After all, the sprayed material fills the smallest cracks and eliminates sources of heat loss.

The thickness of the attic insulation depends on: the type of roofing material, the height of the room, the availability heating system, location of insulation and its type.

Recommendation. If a chimney passes through the attic roof, basalt wool should be used. It begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 °C, and does not smolder like ecowool and does not melt like rigid insulation materials (foam plastic, penoplex).

Waterproofing and vapor barrier under insulation

Since cotton wool is the leader among materials for attic insulation, and at the same time it is hygroscopic, there is a need to take care of the wool itself, protecting it with a hydro- and vapor barrier film. Otherwise, the cotton wool will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties.

For insulation insulation the following are used:

• isospan (20-25 rubles/sq.m.). The vapor barrier film (membrane) has a double layer and surface roughness, due to which condensation is retained;

• polyethylene film (3 rubles/sq.m.). The most affordable waterproofing material in terms of price. But this film does not have the ability to transmit steam;

• waterproofing membrane (30-45 rub./sq.m.). Many manufacturers offer roofing membranes that are distinguished by their ability to simultaneously retain moisture and allow steam to pass through.

• penofol (40-50 rub./sq.m.). Foil insulation.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology from the inside

Complex thermal insulation involves performing the following types of work:

1. insulation of the attic roof;
2. insulation of the attic ceiling;
3. insulation of the attic floor;
4. insulation of attic walls.

Each stage has its own characteristics, which we will dwell on in detail. Insulation of the attic from the inside is carried out if the roof is already covered.

Insulating the attic roof

It doesn’t matter what roofing material the rafter system is covered with. The main thing is that it effectively copes with the task of preventing water from entering the attic space. From the point of view of insulation, the type of roofing material does not matter - their thermal insulation properties are close to zero. This means that the most significant heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, work on insulating the room begins from the roof of the attic floor.

How to insulate an attic roof from the inside - step-by-step instructions

• installation of waterproofing film or membrane. This is a film that prevents water from entering the insulation, but does not prevent moisture from leaving it. Thanks to this, the insulation does not get wet. The film is mounted from the ridge to the eaves in such a way that water, if it gets through the roofing material or condenses on it, flows out over the film. Before installing the film, it is important to treat the wooden parts of the rafter system with a deep penetration primer;

• air gap. It is obtained by arranging the lathing. Allows the material to “breathe”;

• installation of insulation. Mineral wool (or rigid insulation) is laid between the rafters of the attic roof. If the rafter pitch is more than 600 mm. it is necessary to make additional lathing even before the stage of laying the waterproofing film.

  The wool is placed between adjacent beams or metal profile end to end, so that there are no gaps. If any appear, you need to cut out a piece of cotton wool and close the gap.

  Craftsmen recommend using mineral wool mats rather than rolled material, because... they are more dense. It is also recommended to lay the wool in two layers with an offset. To ensure that the cotton wool sits tightly in the intended place, it can be strengthened with rope or nails;

  Advice. If you are insulating an attic ceiling with a slope length of more than three meters, you need to make wooden jumpers between the vertical beams of the sheathing. Because The cotton wool can “slip”.

• installation of vapor barrier film. The purpose of this film is not to let steam into the insulation. The optimal level of humidity is achieved by ventilating the room;

  Note. To insulate the rafters, some craftsmen install thin insulation between the vapor barrier film and the finishing material.

  When laying layers in a given order, it is important to ensure reliable adhesion of films and insulation to the ridge, valley, walls, window openings, etc.

• finishing material. Most often, sheets of plasterboard, MDF or wood (board, lining) are used to decorate the attic. Facing material attached to rafter system or a frame made of profiles.