Installation of floors in a bathhouse is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wood or concrete-based. And a high-quality solution to the problem related to how to lay floors in a bathhouse will determine the quality of bathing procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bathhouse as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bathhouse can be arranged with our own hands.

Wooden floor

Wooden floors can be non-leaking or leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The most simple design gender and the procedure is as follows:

• Floor beams are usually installed during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs. They usually rest on a foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between pillars in the case of a columnar foundation.
• If this was not done, then the beams can be embedded after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bathhouse independent of the foundation and walls. This will not affect how to lay the floor in the bathhouse.
  In this case, it is necessary to lay separate columns under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as foundation columns.

Attention: The top level of the columns should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and lower is undesirable, this will solve many problems in the future.

• Boards are nailed solidly to the floor beams from below, or 50x50 mm bars are nailed into the lower part of the sides of the beams. The subfloor is laid on these bars.

• After that on rough boards a layer of vapor barrier spreads.
• One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. It could be mineral wool or insulation based on basalt wool.
• Then another layer of vapor barrier is laid.

• A tongue-and-groove floorboard is laid on top of the beams.

If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This tilt should be made towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. For a steam room, it is best to use hardwood, they are softer and high temperature do not emit harmful resins.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), there is no need to make such a slope, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaking floors

Such floors are installed only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in a bathhouse of this type, it is necessary to prepare the soil for the future flooring.

To fix a leaking floor, do the following:

• The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured onto it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
• Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
• The top is done concrete screed, this creates a tilt towards the water receiver. Water should be drained either into a septic tank or further from the bathhouse into the ground, which should absorb water well.
• At the end of the pipe that drains the water, it is necessary to install a special lock that does not let odors into the bathhouse.
• Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one or two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be treated with special compounds to extend the service life of the material.

Bulk floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there are floor beams free space. As a result, in winter the lower part of the room is quite cool, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bathhouse, you can avoid laying insulation or the entry of cold air in case of leaking floors.

This is done like this:

• Floor beams are not installed at all.
• A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is poured onto the ground and compacted.
• Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also in a layer of 15-20 cm, also leveled and compacted.

• A concrete screed is poured on top within 10 cm.

Wooden floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, onto which tongue-and-groove floor boards are already installed. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to allow water to drain. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt it.

Ceramic tile floor

You can do it differently; you can lay it very well on even concrete. ceramic tiles. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: Special, non-slip tiles must be used for the floor in the bathhouse in order to avoid falls.

In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a grid of wooden blocks on the floor.

Compared to wooden floors, concrete-based floors have advantages in that their price is lower and their service life is much longer. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in a bathhouse.

The furnishings in a bathhouse with wooden floors and the same walls allow you to get complete rest, so before laying the floor in the bathhouse, you should think carefully about what will be healthier, and not cheaper.

Replacing the floor

Nothing lasts forever, and no matter how much we would like it, a situation often arises related to how to change the floor in a bathhouse.

There may be several reasons:

• The old floor has become unusable.
• It does not perform water drainage functions.
• He's simply tired of it.
• The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to get. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as if it were new. Either it's done redecorating and new flooring is being laid.

Possible option complete replacement one type of floor to another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is installed.

Conclusion

The floor in the bathhouse has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends on him temperature regime in the room and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.

Supply you additional information our portal can help you on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repairs.

The bathhouse consists of two rooms - a steam room (washing room) and a dressing room. Each of these rooms has its own characteristics, and floor construction technology takes these differences into account. Let's start first with more complex work - the floor in the steam room, and then we will look at the installation of floors in the dressing room.

High temperatures, high humidity and direct contact with water require special care when laying floors. Otherwise, washing will be uncomfortable and the floors will have to be changed frequently. So, we have a ready-made log house, why start installing floors and what they are like.

Photo of the floor in the steam room, already finished and laid
Wooden floor in the steam room

Spilling floors - photo

The simplest option, they are laid only with natural (glued-laminated will not work!) coniferous boards, the thickness of the boards is at least 25 mm, the distance between the logs is no more than 80 cm, the distance between the beams is 1.0÷1.3. The thicker the boards, the greater the distance maybe between the joists. For logs, you can take bars 50x100 mm, the dimensions of the beams are approximately 100x100 mm. If there is a desire, impregnate it with antiseptics; if there is no desire, the floors will last for many years without impregnation. The main difference between pourable floors is that water flows over the entire area into cracks ≈5 mm wide.

Do-it-yourself shower floor. Instructions

Step 1.

The fact is that the water must go into the ground. If the soil is sandy, there are no problems. If your soil is clay or loamy, there will be problems. Baths are built on columnar or shallow strip foundations; they are dug to a depth of approximately 50 cm, sand cushion rarely does anyone do it (but in vain!). Clay soils swell when there is an excess of moisture, and the bathhouse begins to “play” with everyone negative consequences. This means that on clay soils it is necessary to make drainage if the foundations are closed (shallow strip foundations). You shouldn’t be particularly upset, if the builders are responsible, then they should have left ventilation holes in the foundation; they can be used to drain water. There are no such holes - you will have to make them yourself.

Step 2. The floors are laid on joists, the joists are laid on beams. And here a lot depends on the conscientiousness of the builders. They had to lay the beams while laying the timber. Didn't get it? The problem is, you need to make columns for them.

Columns should be filled only with concrete; brick is afraid of moisture and will crumble after a few years.

Stage	Description
	Make markings, the distance between the posts is the same as the distance between the beams. In most cases, 1.0÷1.3 m is sufficient (for beams 100 × 100 mm). Dig square holes 50 centimeters deep, pour 15÷20 cm thick sand onto the bottom and compact it, this will be a cushion that protects against swelling.
	In clay soils there is no need to make formwork, the earth will hold its shape anyway, formwork only needs to be made for the protruding part of the posts. For sandy soils, you will have to make formwork along the entire height of the columns. For formwork, you can use various waste boards, scraps of OSB boards or plywood. The height of the columns should be lower than the floor level (in construction this level is considered to be the zero mark) by the height of the beams, joists and the thickness of the boards. First you need to set up the formwork of the outermost posts, stretch a rope between them and place all the rest at this level.
	Pour the concrete, it’s easy to do, you don’t need any advice.
	After pouring, you need to wait at least two weeks, during this period of time the concrete gains 50% of its final strength, and you can already work with such material. Remove the formwork and check the position of the posts again. If necessary cement-sand mortar adjust the columns, make them as equal in height as possible.

Video - Example of arranging a columnar base for logs

It is advisable to lay the beams on a waterproofing material; it is not necessary to use expensive modern cushioning materials; you can use ordinary roofing felt or several layers of polyethylene film.

The beams are fixed to the posts with corners - with a dowel in concrete, or with a screw or nail in wood. Place beams and joists level, constantly check the spatial position, fix the joists to the beams with metal corners. The same height is also checked with a rope stretched between the outer eiders. If necessary, pieces of boards should be placed under the joists for leveling. Just don’t use wedges, they fall out over time; the stop of the spacers should be across the entire area of ​​the beam.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

Step 3. Laying boards.

The boards are laid across the joists; do not forget to leave gaps between them for water to drain. To ensure that the slots have the same width, you can use a thin river of suitable thickness as a template. After laying the board, it is removed.

You can nail it (quickly and cheaply), or you can use self-tapping screws. The main thing is that the caps need to be recessed flush. Why are nails better? The fact is that the relative humidity of the floors in the steam room changes within significant limits, the boards swell and dry out. The nails compensate for these changes in the thickness of the floor; they pull out a little from the joists; the length of the nails in our case is approximately 70 mm. In general, there is a rule - the length of the nails should be three times greater than the thickness of the board being nailed. The screws hold tightly, the boards break through a little, which is not very desirable.

Video - Preparing boards for laying

Video - Installing beams, laying floorboards, floor insulation

Step 4. Finishing work– nailing skirting boards, leveling and, if necessary, sanding boards. Skirting boards are nailed in the usual way small nails approximately 30 mm long. Specific values ​​depend on the thickness of the skirting boards. Corner cuts should be made at an angle of 45°, there are special devices for cuts. If you have a factory device at hand, it will not be difficult to make it yourself. That's all, the drain floor is ready for “use”.

Do not be afraid that the drain floors are cold and you will catch a runny nose in the steam room. The temperature in the steam room is about +80°C, from such heat the floor also heats up, and large drafts from small cracks will not appear.

Non-leakage floors

Making them is a little more difficult, but the comfort of staying in the steam room increases. They differ from leaking ones in that there are no gaps between the boards, but there is a slight slope for draining water.

You need to make a slope towards one of the walls of the steam room; you should keep in mind that the mesh will have to be cleaned periodically. This means that access to the drain must be free. It is advisable to make a water receiver at the drainage point and immediately remove it beyond the perimeter of the foundation; this is not difficult to do, the water flows in one place (unlike leaking floors).

Concerning preparatory work by device ventilation holes in the foundation and arrangement of stacks, then these works are the same as we described above, but in the future there are differences.

Step 1. Preparing the columns. Marking by distance between posts, depth, pillow preparation and preparation concrete mixture the same. Further differences. The point is that the columns should be on different heights. The floor near one side is slightly higher than near the other. The slope should not be large; two to three millimeters per linear meter of floor is enough. For example, if you have a steam room 4 meters long, then the difference in height of the outer columns should be within 8 ÷ 12 millimeters. It will not be possible to immediately pour concrete with such precision; you will have to adjust it with mortar after removing the formwork. For the initial marking you will need a simple hydraulic level; make marks on the formwork of the outer posts. Next, everything is already familiar - pull the thread between them and level the surfaces.

Step 2. And here there is a lot in common, only the beams and joists will be at an angle, you also need to check their position using a stretched thread. After installing the last log, do not be lazy to check again that they are in the correct position.

Step 3. Laying boards. You immediately need to prepare a drain grate and come up with a drain method. Use hoses or pipe sections of appropriate diameters. Before laying, check the boards for parallelism of the edges; if the curvature exceeds 5 mm, straighten them using a surface planer. To lay the boards you need to have special devices to pull them tightly. There are two options. The first is to buy a ready-made one in the store; it is inexpensive and works quite effectively. The second option is to prepare ordinary metal staples and wooden wedges of various sizes.

Nail the first board against the wall and secure the stops to the two joists. We already said that these could be staples or factory fittings. The distance between the stops and the first board should be several centimeters greater than the width of the second board. You can fix the stops further, and adjust the distance with stand boards - this is faster, but more difficult. Install the second board and, using wedges, pull it tightly to the first, the slight bend will be evened out. Secure the second board with any hardware. That’s it, you have mastered the “main operation”, continue installing the entire floor using the same method.

Don't forget to install a drain grate where the water drains. It can be homemade from galvanized sheet iron or purchased, there is no big difference, both do their functions perfectly.

Prices for floor boards

floor boards

Floors in the waiting room

There are three options - ordinary planks, insulated and heated. The first ones are no different from the non-spillable ones in the steam room, only they do not have a slope and, accordingly, no holes for draining water. Let's look at the two remaining options.

Insulated floors

The simplest option is to use polystyrene foam as insulation, although mineral wool can also be used in the dressing room. The columns, dimensions of beams, joists and boards are identical. The insulation installation technology has slight differences. Let's start with this operation

Step 1. Rough floor. The insulation is placed between the rough and finished floors. The subfloor is attached to the joists from below and is made from scrap boards, slabs, used plywood sheets or OSB boards. This " economical option“If you have extra money, use new materials.

Step 2. Insulating materials are laid on the subfloor; make sure that there are no gaps between the individual sheets of insulation. If mineral wool is used, then you will have to make steam and water barriers; wool is very sensitive to moisture, and when wet, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. But that's not all. Once wet it doesn't dry well. wooden structures are in prolonged contact with wet cotton wool. There is no need to tell what happens to them in such conditions.

Prices for OSB boards

OSB boards

Video - Subfloor

Step 3. Finish floor. We have already told you how to lay it, now you already have construction experience, the work will go faster.

Laying floorboards on top of insulation - penoplex

Electrically heated floors

Enough complex design, requires careful attention and some knowledge not only in construction, but also in electrical engineering. Before you get started, there are a few things you need to know.

1. It is not advisable to use boards, laminate and other wooden coverings for heated floors. Firstly, they have very low thermal conductivity; most of the thermal energy will heat the ground, and not the floor and room. Secondly, the risk of cracks or cracking of the material increases significantly; even the use of boards with a relative humidity of 8% does not always save. The fact is that while you are using and laying purchased dry boards, they will absorb moisture. You can, of course, use artificial plastic boards, but is the “game worth the candle”?
2. It is necessary to accurately determine the heat source. When heating with water, you need to network engineering from home or install a separate boiler in the bathhouse. Both options are questionable from an economic point of view. Remains electric version heating But here, too, problems arise - to be effective, the power of the heating elements should be approximately 140 W per square meter premises. These are quite large values; you need to make sure that the power lines comply with these indicators.
3. Heating electric shock requires installation of the complex electrical wiring. All work should be carried out in strict compliance with the PUE. Do you have such knowledge?

If everything is fine, then you can begin the actual work. In our case, heated floors will be for ceramic coating; this is the most effective option.

Stage	Description
Step 1. Preparing the base.	The site needs to be leveled. Perfect option– use foam concrete. With its help, the site is leveled and thermal insulation of the heating elements from the ground is ensured - increasing the efficiency of using heated floors. But it is impossible to prepare foam concrete at home; you need special reagents (this is still being decided) and a special unit (this is no longer being decided). You will have to prepare ordinary concrete and cement-sand mixtures. The site should be leveled with concrete. To do this, first level the ground manually - the work will go faster and less concrete will be needed. Next, beacons are installed; you can buy them in a store, use even thin slats for these purposes, or make beacons from mortar. The third option is quite complicated, it requires skill and skill, it is better to use the first two. The beacons are installed below the level, try to make the base as level as possible and strictly in horizontal plane. If the horizontal position is a little “naughty”, it’s not a problem, you’ll have time to level it out in the future. It is better to pour concrete over the entire area as quickly as possible, otherwise there will be breaks. Concrete thickness is within 5÷8 cm, if large loads on the floor are expected, reinforce it construction fittings periodic profile Ø5 mm. There is no need to knit any mesh from the reinforcement, just lay it in the thickness of the concrete in rows at a distance of ≈ 30÷40 cm. Let it dry for at least a week, or better yet, two. The beacons do not need to be removed; they will not interfere.
Step 2. Thermal insulation.	It is best to use high-strength foam up to ten centimeters thick. Its physical strength characteristics are quite suitable, it is easy to work with, and its cost satisfies most developers. Lay the foam in even and dense rows.
Step 3. Screed.	It should cover the foam and protect it from mechanical damage. For screeding, you need to use the so-called dry mortar. It is not completely dry, as you might think, it just contains much less water than usual. The moisture content is checked simply - you can squeeze it in your hand, moisture should not seep between your fingers, and the lump should not crumble. Advantages of dry mortar: due to its low density it conducts heat poorly (additional thermal insulation), working with it is very quick and easy, and its strength meets the required parameters. Make the screed in the same way as a concrete screed, thickness 2÷3 centimeters.
Step 4. Laying heating elements.	There is nothing particularly complicated here, it’s not worth taking up time. Read the manufacturer's instructions and follow their recommendations.
Step 5. Laying ceramic tiles.	The tiles can be laid directly over the heating elements, or you can make another screed with cement mortar, but not dry, but regular. The second option is preferable. Decide for yourself, the main thing is that the tiles do not damage electrical cables. The tiles are laid in the usual way. Here you already need to have at least some experience. If you have never done such work, you will have to learn on the go and suffer a little. Be prepared that it may not work out the first time.
Step 5. Connection.	Manufacturers fully equip with all protection and control devices, connect them according to the rules of the Electrical Installation Regulations, select a location for installing the automation.

Video - Screed

In conclusion, I would like to say a few words about the floors in the dressing room. Before you start with warm floors and heated floors, weigh everything carefully. These floors require skill, time and money, and the return on them is minimal. Any work must have logic, only in this case the efforts are justified. Think about how long you need to stand barefoot on a warm field for the insulation to retain the heat from the wooden coverings, return it back and “warm” your feet? How long does it take to warm up the floors (and how much will it cost) just to get undressed/dressed in a few minutes? Isn't it better and cheaper to use ordinary (or warm) slippers in the dressing room? And we described the technology for arranging warm and heated floors in the dressing room only because there is a demand for such types.

The installation of floors in a bathhouse is a very important process and has its own fundamental features. Failure to comply with which will lead to the construction of a cold floor and its rapid rotting. An improperly constructed floor and the drainage of used water underneath it can cause unpleasant odors in the bathhouse.

Everyone wants to spend time comfortably and usefully in a bathhouse, where the floor is properly and evenly arranged, where you don’t have to step barefoot on dirty puddles or jump from grid to grid.

It is impossible to imagine a bathhouse without water procedures. And where there is water, the issue of its drainage or drainage must be resolved. Thanks to this, the floor will prolong its operation for a long time.

For the manufacture of floors in bathhouses, mainly wood and concrete are used everywhere. And how to make it yourself using simple materials, we will consider in different versions.

Both in the dressing room (rest room or locker room), and in the washing and steam rooms, the floors must be warm. Gradually, step by step, we will consider the construction of floors in the best options in these premises and in this article.

Step-by-step guide for installing a floor in a bathhouse

Before you start installing floors in the bathhouse, you need to decide which floor to choose and how to install it: suspended directly along the joists or laid on the ground with insulation. What kind of soil is inside my bathhouse: sandy and dry or clayey and more often wet. And where the water will drain, I need to help the water find a way out of the bathhouse, or it will stagnate and gradually dry out on its own. Here we need an objective approach and the same answer.

In general, it is customary to divide floors in a bathhouse into:

• Leaking wooden
• Leak-proof wooden
• Concrete with insulation and covered with tiles

All other floors are varieties and modifications of the above. Let's consider the design of these floors separately, as well as in a combined version, it all depends on their purpose and operating conditions.

The flooring in the rest room is made of non-leaking wood.

Very often, the relaxation room in a bathhouse combines the concept of a locker room and a dressing room. In this room the interior is always dry, just like in a residential building. To lay the logs, you need to lay 400 x 400 mm columns made of reinforced concrete and brick. The upper plane of the support columns must be at the same level as the upper plane of the strip foundation. If necessary, make alignment.

Consider a non-leaking wood floor like hanging option. In the picture we see a backing beam, it is also called a beam and logs are mounted on it. You can start installation without beams, right along the joists.

Lay 150 x 150 mm logs impregnated with an antiseptic agent on the waterproofing of the support columns and the edges of the foundation. Nail the joist to the bottom edges cranial bars 50 x 50 mm and lay rough flooring on them from edged boards, 25-30 mm thick. Coat the rough flooring boards with antiseptic as well. Let dry.

Lay parchment or unrefined paper on the rough flooring with a 200 mm overlap, if the insulation is mineral wool or roofing felt, if expanded clay of different size fractions is used as insulation.

Then a clean floor of floorboards and a quarter is laid on top of the joists. The boards are held together standard rules. Typically, floor boards are made from coniferous wood, since it is cheaper than larch.

Along the perimeter of the room, the boards should not reach the walls by 2 cm. There should be a distance of 15 cm between the insulation and the top board for ventilation and there should be vents in the foundation walls.

How to make a floor in the washing area and steam room?

About the construction of the floors in these two sections, the most important ones, for the sake of which the bathhouse is being built, it is necessary to talk and show a lot and in more detail. The floors in these rooms can be: wooden, leaking or non-leaking, or concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top.

Currently, thought does not stand still and with its development new proposals appear. The author of the idea proposed below combined washing rooms and a steam room into one common volumetric underground. Both rooms have leaking wooden floors. Let's look at their device.

1. Leaking bath floors:

There have always been leaking or spilling floors in Russian baths. But where does the water go under the floor - this important question is now solved differently, depending on constructive solutions and a smart approach. Let's say right away - in the steam room and in the sink there is a leaking wooden floor with gaps of 5 - 6 mm. In the underground between these two rooms there should not be a strip foundation, but a columnar foundation is allowed.

When the boiler is lit, there is a movement of cold and warm air through the underground. Air moves through open door and through a special window in the interior wall. The bathhouse premises warm up well, the floor becomes warm and you can steam and wash, which means pouring water. Let's watch a video about the movement of wastewater outside the bathhouse.

There are different schemes for releasing wastewater from a bathhouse, and they will be discussed further for comparison and selection.

The basis for a leaking wooden floor is an expanded clay concrete screed placed on the ground and it is consistently done as follows:

• On the base of the steam room soil and washing department first a layer of sand is poured, leveled and compacted, then a layer of crushed stone. Total thickness 250 mm;
• This layer is covered with thick plastic film in 3 layers with lifting along the perimeter onto the walls. The edges of each layer are glued together with frost-resistant tape. This layer serves as waterproofing.
• Lay down metal mesh with cells 80 - 100 mm.
• Guides are installed with a slope towards the drainage ladder. The beacons are fixed with slides. A slope of 3 cm per 1 m of guides is maintained.
• Expanded clay concrete is laid between the guides and leveled according to the rule, observing the slope.
• Make a grout of cement mortar and smooth out all the unevenness well.

Expanded clay was chosen as insulation. He has a number positive qualities- it's environmentally friendly pure material, obtained by accelerated firing of low-melting clays. It has high performance indicators and can reduce heat loss by 50 - 75%. Expanded clay gravel is inexpensive compared to other popular insulation materials.

It is weather-resistant, fireproof, odorless, and does not emit harmful components in the event of a fire. Concrete prepared using expanded clay is much lighter than crushed stone. Different fractions are used from 5 to 30 mm.

For reliable setting, cement grade M400-M500 is used. Experts advise adding a plasticizer. Proportional composition for preparing the mixture: 2 parts expanded clay, 1 part water, 1 part cement, 3 parts sand.

It’s not difficult to mix the mixture yourself. You need to prepare a construction mixer and a large metal container. You can also prepare a concrete mixer.

From practice, it is recommended to soak expanded clay in water so that it does not float. During the mixing process, expanded clay concrete acquires a characteristic grey colour. It is necessary to pour in place immediately after mixing. The solution is poured between the beacons from the corner of the room to the funnel. Complete drying expanded clay concrete occurs in a month. You can check readiness by installing glass jar upside down, it should not fog up.

This is how a leaky wooden floor with a base of expanded clay concrete is made. At the location of the drain, make a shield or cover to access the funnel and clear it of debris and broom leaves.

2. Concrete floor with insulation and tiles.

In this option, between the washing room and the steam room there is strip foundation. Therefore, each room must have its own drain with a drain.

Such a floor is made for both the washing room and the steam room and it is well used. It is made in exactly the same way as a base made of expanded clay concrete, only to increase the thermal performance indicators, dry expanded clay is additionally sprinkled onto the metal mesh and the thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer is increased.

Then ceramic tiles are laid in the usual way with grouting and sloping towards the drain. Additionally, they make a border of tiles on the walls around the perimeter.

The tiles are laid on top of the floor wooden boards, strong and reliably made. Still, the tile floor slips.

Any floor ends in a drain and it is best if it is thought out before the foundation is built in order to lay together boxes made of boards or metal pipes as a case in the body of the foundation. And, objectively thinking about where you will have a well for drainage, outside the foundation, with the location of the drain inside, dig trenches and lay PVC sewer pipes on a slope. Make a slope of at least 3 cm per 1 m of pipe.

Lay special frost-resistant sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, because the pipes are durable and comfortable conditions Over the years, you want more - that means you have a reserve. Maybe in the future you will make a toilet and dishwasher in the recreation room, or install a shower stall with an electric water heater and run cold water through pipes for the summer.

The sewer pipes in the trench must be insulated with ready-made Energoflex foam polyethylene. It is sold in different lengths and different diameters with a cut along the pipe, so you just put it on it and the seam is sealed. Trenches with pipes can be filled with sand, expanded clay, and then earth.

The washing room is connected to the arrangement of drains with ladders PVC pipe with a steam room and then the drains go beyond the walls of the bathhouse into the drainage well. Eat good video about this theme.

This should also be considered life situation when, when installing a drain, you did as described above in the article, but for unknown reasons, the smell from the external well penetrates into the bathhouse and you feel it. No need to be upset, because there is constructive possibility avoid this. This will help special device in the gangway. Look carefully at the pictures with the ladder.

Understanding the structure of this drain, which is installed in the drain hole, is not at all difficult. The second color picture shows how air bubbles from the external well with an odor are trying to penetrate inside the bathhouse, but the water seal prevents them. There is a red cap on top of the outlet and it seems to float in the drain water.

If water gets into the drain from time to time and there is a possibility of the water seal drying out and, accordingly, the appearance of unpleasant odors from the sewer, then to eliminate this problem, drains with a “dry” siphon “Primus” are used. He is in front of you in the picture.

If there is water in it, the siphon works like a regular siphon, and when the water seal evaporates, the drain hole is blocked by the movable upper part of the siphon (cap).

Typically, bathhouses are equipped with drains with a vertical outlet and a non-freezing siphon brand HL310N.2

3. Leak-resistant wood floors

Leak-free wooden floors in the washing room and in the steam room can be made by the bathhouse owner himself, but it is more difficult than the previous options. This is the principle of arranging this floor.

The picture shows two types of non-drip floor devices: with a drain in the center of the room and with a drain closer to the other opposite wall.

The floor slope is created by arranging a notch in the body of the log. A non-leaking floor is made of two layers of flooring: rough and finishing. The boards must be coniferous, and the finished floor is made from better quality boards, without knots or gaps.

The direction of the boards is towards the drain. The drain itself is mounted in different ways, most often from galvanized sheet. And then, as best you can: you can go into a pit, and then into a pipe and a well, or you can make a ladder with a “dry” siphon and also connect it through a pipe to a well on the street. The ladder must be accessible for cleaning and repairs.

The picture on the left shows the presence of all layers of non-drip flooring. This floor is considered suspended, wooden and warm. This is also done, but more often specialists are invited to install it.

If you dare to install such a floor yourself, consult a specialist; it will not be superfluous, but will only give you confidence in your own abilities.

Water can be drained through the drain chute into a pit made of reinforced concrete. Effluent from the pit sewer pipe go into the outer well.

After bath procedures, the floors in the bathhouse must dry in order to prolong their performance for a long time. To do this, someone then heats the bathhouse. But installing a ventilation duct near the wall of the bathhouse with access to the attic will not interfere with the floor and will allow it to “breathe.”

Between the top finished floor and the top waterproofing, which lies on the insulation, there must be air gap up to 150 mm.

The galvanized sheet is simply stuck into the body of the log and secured with an overlap on the floor.

And so on around the entire perimeter of the bathhouse.

The ventilation duct is made from dense boards or from a regular galvanized thick sheet.

I hope the article was useful to you. Build it yourself and strive to improve your living conditions. Good luck!

You can make the floor in the bathhouse with your own hands if you do everything carefully and correctly.

The quality of preparation of the base of your bathhouse, the choice of insulating components and the final coating fundamentally determine the long service life of your floor.

We will provide you with and together consider the installation of bath floors, as well as distinctive features installation and various kinds technical mistakes that should be taken into account and avoided.

Features of the structure of floors in the bathhouse

If you are building a bathhouse and plan to use it for all twelve months or more, then in this case we advise you to make a permanent foundation with pouring a concrete screed.

There is an answer to the question of how to create a wear-resistant and strong floor in a bathhouse - the construction of the bathhouse itself as a whole is carried out taking into account a large number of different nuances. Premises with a rather specific microclimate can provide truly extraordinary operating conditions flooring.

High humidity, as well as changes in temperature threshold and contact of the subfloor with water can significantly reduce the lifespan of your floor.

The choice of a particular method for arranging the foundation in a very humid room mainly depends on the following factors:

Type of wooden floors

The construction of the base using wooden flooring will be optimal for seasonal buildings. Wood itself has little thermal conductivity, which is why it helps retain heat in very humid rooms.

But a very high humidity threshold can provoke the process of rotting of wooden components. In order to avoid this, experts advise using floor joists, and accordingly, flooring, which is made of coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic because they have natural resins in the wood structure.

In general, absolutely all types of wooden coatings can be divided into 2 main categories: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking

The first category is leaky. The boards are placed at a certain interval, which is why water is removed from the entire room as quickly as possible due to various kinds of cracks formed in the coating, the dimensions of which range from three to seven millimeters.

The design of this base is very beneficial for the following reasons:

• Low price of flooring;
• There is no need to install a drainage system;
• Easy installation.

Leak-proof

The second category is non-leakage. So let's say, a monolithic covering, which is assembled from boards. You can use this category in buildings that are used year-round.

But in this option, a water collector should be installed in the base, with the help of which waste water would disappear into the sewer pipes.

The non-leaking coating device itself has the following advantages:

• Excellent thermal conductivity of the room;
• Possibility of collecting heated floors;
• Very long period of use.

Preparation of equipment and tools

The construction of a bathhouse is considered a very responsible, careful, labor-intensive process, but one of the most important points The improvement of the floors is considered. From quality indicators installation work, which are associated with the sewer system, as well as the installation of floor components, generally affect the microclimate of the entire room.

In order to implement all stages of floor construction carefully and correctly, you first need to have the necessary tools for the job on hand.

Construction of a concrete base is only possible if you have the following tools:

For installation wooden covering The following tools will be required:

• Jigsaw – angle grinder;
• Roulette;
• Nails;
• Plane;
• Hammer.

In order to understand how to properly install floors in a bathhouse, we will provide you with step by step instructions laying concrete and wooden floors.

Floor installation

Conventional floor design

The base must be higher zero level by eight to nine centimeters, in particular regarding the base, which is installed in the steam room. In this case, the temperature threshold in the room will remain at the same level for a very long time. At the same time, the base in the wash room should be made a little lower than in the other parts of the bathhouse, which will make it possible to avoid water leakage from the floor into the shower room and dressing room, and so on.

Layers

The usual installation of a floor in a bathhouse is considered a very labor-intensive process:

Features of base preparation

The usual construction of a heated floor in a bathhouse begins with simple preparatory work. To do this, the following is necessary: ​​to ensure a long service life of the final coating; To do this, in the process of preparing the foundation, the following work should be done:

1. The first step is to lay a mineral cushion in the form of expanded clay granules or broken bricks in place of the floors. The usual thickness of such a drainage layer must be no less than fifteen centimeters;
2. After this, you need to pour crushed stone or gravel on top, a layer of ten to fifteen centimeters;
3. Then the laid materials should be compacted.
4. The application of a so-called mineral cushion makes it possible to disrupt capillarity, due to which ground moisture increases and reaches the base, as a result of which it destroys and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture

In order to create a high-quality solution for pouring screed, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratios, as well as the order of attaching the necessary elements.

In order to improve the thermal insulation qualities of this mixture, you can add to its composition sorbitol. The manufacturing process itself takes place in two stages.

The first step will be to fill ten liters clean water into a concrete mixer, then pour about two buckets of expanded sand and mix everything. Then you need to add cement (about five liters), the main point is that the cement must be grade M-300 and no lower.

After adding cement, mix again, then add about five liters of the same clean water, and all that remains is to mix all the components until the mixture is homogeneous.

If necessary, you can improve the mixture, namely, increase its technical parameters by adding perlite. In order to do this, you need to go through the following: add ten kilograms of perlite and two to two and a half liters of water to the already prepared solution. Mix all this very thoroughly until the entire solution becomes free-flowing. After ten minutes, mix everything very well again.

At the very end, you will see a loose composition; its consistency is a bit like simple plasticine. After this stage, a screed is made.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​the rough covering is very small, the screed should be carried out over the entire area. To pour screed over a huge area, the room is divided into strips (conditionally), and everything needs to be processed in turn.

So, in order to lay your first layer of mixture as carefully and correctly as possible, you need the following:

Hydro- and thermal insulation of concrete floors

At the moment the screed hardens, it is necessary to proceed to the stage of hydro- and thermal insulation of the coating.

Before laying all the insulating materials, the concrete itself (surface) is checked for dents, bulges, and cracks. If necessary, defects should be repaired.

As a rule, you can choose for simple waterproofing materials:

• Polyethylene film;
• Rolled roofing felt;
• Bitumen mastic.

After you have already installed waterproofing, you need to insulate the floor.

For these purposes you can use:

• Polystyrene;
• Granulated expanded clay;
• Foam concrete;
• Penoplex;
• Mineral wool.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer must be from ten to fifteen centimeters. As practice shows, the most the best insulation For concrete surfaces, expanded clay is considered. It does not absorb moisture, weighs very little and is soundproof.

Pouring the final screed

Laying the final layer of screed technologically differs very little from the previous option, however, in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from eight to ten centimeters. With all this, it is necessary to take into account that during the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to ensure that the slope towards the drainage basin is maintained.

However, the arrangement of floors in small and large rooms is quite different. For example, if the base area is very large, to give the structure high strength, it is worth laying a simple reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with frequent use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Feature of wooden floor

Wooden flooring is considered a standard type of covering, which was used for arranging floors in bathhouses.

Despite its hygroscopicity, this type The material is still in great demand among consumers, thanks to the following features:

Making a wooden floor in a bathhouse

How to carefully and most importantly, correctly lay a wooden floor? To do this you need to install wooden base, which is actually very easy, but it is necessary to take into account a certain number of technical nuances.

The entire process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

Building a bathhouse, and even with a wear-resistant floor, is a very difficult task, unless, of course, you take into account the specific microclimate in the room.

To increase the period of use of the floor covering, the following points must be taken into account during the installation process:

Improve water repellent property You can screed using dust removal products with the same features.

Conclusion

Installing a floor in a bathhouse is a very long and labor-intensive process; it will require a careful approach from you.

During the installation process, it is necessary to take into account a large number of factors:

• foundation type;
• base area;
• type of flooring materials;
• microclimate;
• and so on.

Only in this situation and compliance with almost all technological rules The floor installed in the bathhouse can serve you for an incredibly long period of time.

Each stage of bathhouse construction has a specific meaning. A special place is given to the construction of the floor in the steam room, since the safety of people when taking bath procedures and the durability of everything depend on its quality bath complex. Correct device floors must ensure the removal of waste water, good ventilation, and also have reliable heat and waterproofing.

What should be the floor in the steam room?

The specific operating conditions of the steam room require compliance with requirements, the fulfillment of which makes visiting the bathhouse comfortable and safe. In order for the floors of this bathhouse to serve their purpose, it is important that they are warm.

When installing floors from planks, it is necessary to adjust them so that the surface is continuous, since the presence of cracks is not allowed. It is necessary to create some inclination towards the drain, and it is advisable to make the flooring light and with the possibility of quick dismantling.

Due to the fact that the level of humidity in the steam room is increased, the risk of floor rotting increases significantly. Therefore, you should use a high baseboard that has waterproof properties.

The use of materials of synthetic origin in conditions elevated temperatures not allowed due to the release of toxic substances when heated. When arranging a concrete floor, a sand-crushed stone base is laid and a layer of thermal insulation is constructed.

Removing moist air and drying floors requires creation in the foundation. Constantly ventilating the floor will prevent the occurrence of unpleasant odor and wood rotting.

Steam room floor

Floor design

The floor in the bathhouse has a temperature that does not exceed 30 degrees Celsius, which makes it the coldest place in the steam room. Therefore, they do not play a significant role in creating the required temperature. Floors traditional bath They are laid out from pine boards, for the installation of which logs are installed.

To protect the wood, logs must undergo antiseptic treatment. The flooring is made of tongue and groove or dry edged boards coniferous trees.

When constructing baths big size To install lags, as a rule, pillars are made of brick or concrete, installed on a base of sand or concrete.

The drainage system is thought out before constructing the foundation for the sauna stove and installing the logs. Its device must ensure water drainage in order to prevent the occurrence of negative phenomena in the steam room.

When building a bathhouse on sandy soil, which absorbs water well, a regular drainage pit is installed. The dimensions of this structure must correspond to the water flow and the size of the bath complex. To fill the bottom of the pit, broken brick, gravel, and crushed stone are used, which are compacted and covered with roofing felt.

To construct a drainage pit in clayey soil, a concrete pit with dimensions of 500x500x400 mm and a wall of 100 mm is constructed. Mounted at the bottom a drain pipe equipped with a water seal.

Types of floors

Leaking

The design of a leaking floor in a steam room is simple and minimal cost. It is made in the form of a plank flooring, the parts of which are located with a gap necessary to remove drains.

The sewerage system in this case is a drainage pit, which is located underground. No floor insulation is provided. The use of such a design is allowed only in regions with a warm climate or when constructing bathhouses in the country, which are used from time to time.

The construction of a leaking floor does not cause difficulties when independent execution works Repairs are extremely simple, since the flooring is not attached to the joists. If necessary, the drainage pit is replaced with a tray installed so that the wastewater is transported to the sewer.

Leaking floor

Leak-proof

To create a leak-proof floor in the steam room, the boards are laid in two rows. The outer row is made of tongue-and-groove boards, which are mounted on the joists as tightly as possible to eliminate gaps.

Most the best option wood is pine or larch. The second row is mounted from below and represents the subfloor. This design is considered dry, so a thermal insulation layer is installed.

The finishing floor must have a slight slope to drain wastewater in a designated place. A siphon is installed in the subfloor, which is inserted into the hole prepared for this. Instead, a tray can be installed, which is located along the entire length. It is placed at a slope towards the place where sewage collects.

Concrete

The construction of a concrete floor in the steam room is carried out in stages. First, the soil in the pit is compacted, at the bottom of which a layer of concrete 50 mm thick is placed. After it hardens, thermal insulation is created from felt or expanded clay.

After this, the reinforcement is installed and filled with concrete solution. The finishing coat is used to create the top layer of the floor.

During soil compaction activities, a slope directed towards the drainage pit should be ensured. Creating such a base will provide the required slope of the entire structure. Before compaction, a cushion of sand and gravel 150 mm thick is placed on the bottom surface. The slope is 10 degrees.

When withdrawing Wastewater Vents should be made into the ground directly under the bathhouse construction, using asbestos pipes to create them.

The thermal insulation layer must be protected from negative influence moisture. For this purpose they use different kinds waterproofing materials. For a comfortable stay in a steam room with a concrete floor, gratings made of wood are laid on it. Such structures can be easily dried.

Installation of concrete floor

The procedure for arranging a wooden floor

Installation of support beams

A beam with dimensions of 150x150 mm serves as supports for the floor structure in the steam room. The support pillars are installed so that their level coincides with the top of the foundation. If height differences occur, the structure is leveled.

Installation of logs must necessarily take place on supports, since they are subject to significant loads. Bricks or concrete reinforced with reinforcement are used as supports. Minimum thickness the racks are 150 mm. They must have additional support on a platform, the width of which is 70 mm greater than the width of the rack, and the height is taken depending on the design of the foundation.

A prerequisite for installing supports is the organization reliable waterproofing. Most often, bitumen or roofing felt is used for this. All wooden parts treated with an antiseptic.

Underground

The method of arranging the subfloor depends on the design of the floor. When constructing a leaking floor, a cushion of crushed stone with a layer thickness of 250 mm is placed at the bottom of the underground. If the soil located under the bathhouse is not able to absorb water well, a special container should be installed to collect wastewater.

When creating a leak-proof floor, expanded clay is used instead of crushed stone. Backfilling should be done taking into account the need for ventilation. This is achieved by creating a layer of material such that the distance from the top to the joists is approximately 150 mm. The resulting layer of material must be thoroughly compacted.

Installation of logs

When constructing a leaking floor, you can start laying logs from any wall; when installing a non-leaking floor, it is carried out taking into account the accepted slope value.

The logs are mounted on pre-installed supports. The structure is fixed using any suitable fasteners.

Scheme

Laying rough and finishing floors

Before laying the flooring, a subfloor structure is constructed. To do this, use low quality boards and insulation.

Leaking floor boards are not fixed to the joists. The floorboards of the non-leaking floor are attached with nails, which are nailed at an angle of 45 degrees. When using a shunted board, the grooves should be directed inside the steam room.

The steam room floor plinth should be mounted so that the resulting condensation does not have the opportunity to penetrate under the slats. That is, the cladding is connected to the baseboard in such a way that the connection does not have a gap.

Wooden floors in the steam room do not require any finishing treatment.

Concrete floor construction

Preparing the base

The construction of a concrete floor in a steam room requires the creation of a cushion, which is made with crushed stone impregnated with bitumen. Creating a layer 150 mm thick will allow the load to be evenly distributed.

Pouring concrete

At this stage, you should decide on insulation. One option is to create a base consisting of two layers with a heat insulator placed between them. The final cladding is applied to this one. Another option involves installing a floor heating system.

As a rule, they resort to using the first option. When constructing the bottom layer, large crushed stone is introduced into the solution. The layer thickness is 150 mm.

When building a small steam room, it is allowed to pour the solution over the entire surface of the base at once. If the room area is large, it is recommended to fill in strips one meter wide. In this case, the use of guides will be required.

To fill the top layer, it involves the use of small fractions of crushed stone. Before pouring it, it is necessary that the previously poured solution hardens and the work on laying the insulation is completed.

Concrete floor

Insulation

Installation of insulation requires the creation of a waterproofing layer on which it is located. To protect against moisture, roofing felt or polyethylene is most often used.

As already mentioned, the thermal insulation layer is installed after the concrete has completely hardened. The following materials have good heat-insulating qualities:

• Expanded clay. The cost of the material is quite high, but its consumption is significantly lower than when using boiler slag.
• Styrofoam. It has good thermal insulation properties, but when working in a steam room it quickly breaks down.
• Mineral wool. It has good performance characteristics, but is not an environmentally friendly material.

Finishing

As a rule, as finishing materials Ceramic tiles or mosaics are used on the floors in the steam room.

If the floor is tiled, then installing a second layer of concrete mortar is not necessary.

It can be replaced by using a self-leveling mixture.

In this case, after laying the waterproofing layer, a layer of this mixture 15-20 mm thick is poured. After leveling the surface it turns out good foundation for tile covering. It is fixed using special glue.