I was not the only one who saw apple trees at the beginning of summer, completely entangled web. And caterpillars, hanging down, like paratroopers landing.

And often we hear: "Guard! What to do? They ate half an apple tree. Some things can be saved. But sometimes it's too late.

And for you it is necessary that and the harvest was, and do not eat pesticide kit. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of when to treat apple trees from pests so that this processing is the safest and most effective.

I have friends, so they want to process once and solve everything.

Experienced gardeners believe that it is ideal if you make about 15 treatments various drugs. And even after that, the damage will be within 10-15 % . So it is necessary to choose the minimum number of necessary treatments.

And here residents of the southern regions and the forest-steppe have to carry out cultivation more often for the prevention and control of pests. Or look for stronger drugs.

Pests hibernate better, multiply more, get used to the drugs (last year it was effective, but this year, as I ironically, already as top dressing). Already one drug is not enough, but a tank mixture is needed.

Since the processing must be done practically all year round need a systematic approach

Before you fight a pest, you need to know it.

• What does the pest love, and what does he hate;
• When does it appear and how does it hibernate;
• When, how much and how best to present it to him, for breakfast or for dinner.

There are at least 30 different types of pests wishing to eat not only an apple. But also roots, and bark, and leaves. That's such a variety. And below we will dwell on their characteristics in more detail.

Watch the video on how, when and why to spray fruit trees in the garden:

Preparations

A garden without chemistry is ideal. BUT biological agents are a good way. And the “good” bacteria and viruses help, destroying harmful insects and pathogens of the tree.

But we often use chemical:

• Faster and longer acting;
• Easier to prepare
• More available.

And here they are more dangerous for health:

• Dosage;
• Compliance with security measures.

But do not forget about folk remedies!

Terms by growth phases

The timing of garden processing depends entirely on the growth phase of the apple tree, the presence of a pest and the weather.

1. February to March:
   • sleeping bud: treatment of pests that overwintered in the bark, tree trunks, soil.
2. April to May:
   • green cone (bud break period);
   • pink bud - before flowering;
   • fall of flower petals.
3. End of May - June- the formation of the ovary, the growth of fruits (1-2 treatments);
4. June to July- fruit growth (2-3 treatments);
5. Aug. Sept- fruit ripening (1-2 treatments as needed);
6. October November- after harvesting and falling leaves;
7. Winter- Rodent protection.

ADVICE! The number of treatments depends on the age of the garden, each tree:

• 5-7 years - 7-8 treatments;
• 8-15 years - 8-9 treatments;
• Over 15 years old - 10 treatments.

Spring apple tree spraying calendar

A lot of people don't want to think. And so, have a leaf on hand on which it is written - what and on what day (number). You can write. But they will be indicative and depend on the terrain and the weather (the Kuban is not the Moscow region).

The main thing is:

• The growth state of the tree;
• Presence of a particular pest.

First spraying

Before charging the sprayer, remember:

• Have you done a pruning?
• Have the trunks been cleaned of the affected and exfoliated bark, lichen?

And spend the first spraying with sleeping buds and an average temperature of about 5 degrees Celsius.

Options and more:

• Preparation 30V, blue vitriol;
• DNOC;
• Khom and Fufanon.

During the growing season (April-May)

When the kidneys swell (the period of the so-called green cone):

• Aktara or Engio with Horus;
• Copper vitriol;
• Urea;
• Nitrofen.

Before flowering (so-called rose bud):

• Engio with Horus and Thiovit Jet;
• Bordeaux mixture.

Attention!

• Do spraying with complex preparations or tank mixtures (well compatible preparations);
• Do not process apple trees during flowering.

When the leaves turn yellow

Try determine the cause and act without delay:

• - water;
• Lack of fertilizers (nitrogen) and microfertilizers -;
• The appearance of pests or diseases - treat with insecticides and fungicides;
• It's even better if you do everything together.

After flowering

Spray in May:

• From the caterpillars of the codling moth and leafworm;
• Weevils;
• sawflies;
• Ticks.

For disease prevention:

• Engio and Horus;
• Karbofos;
• benzophosphate;
• Chlorophos.

After 2-3 weeks, carry out another treatment. Spray apple trees with an ovary 7-10 days after the flower petals fall.

Is it possible to spray when there are already fruits?

For clarity:

• During the formation of the ovary (2nd and 3rd decade of May) appears butterfly and lays eggs, and in late May - early June, its caterpillars appear:
  • Skor (Topaz);
  • Lufox (Match).
• At the end of June - beginning of July appears second generation of codling moth caterpillars;
• And 2-3 more treatments.

Spraying apple trees with fruits.

Remember! Processing is stopped 20 days before the fruit ripens.

Processing in autumn

Meaning:

• Disease prevention;
• Destroy the pest in the soil, in the bark, and on the branches.

Not only spraying, but a whole range of activities:

• Collection of foliage and spindles from under the trees;
• Digging of tree trunks and soil;
• Sanitary pruning;

When you need to spray apple trees from pests:

• After harvesting and falling leaves;
• In calm weather and without rain:
  • Carbamide (urea);
  • Fufanon;
  • Inkstone.

Terms of spraying with different preparations

A few words about drugs:

• Insecticide– against harmful insects;
• Fungicide- against all diseases;
• Contact:
  • got on a pest and he is not a tenant, and quickly;
  • works for about a week, the rain washes away immediately.
• Systemic (complex):
  • are valid for about two weeks;
  • penetrate into the tissues of the tree;
  • act on larvae and eggs.

Fungicides

Ferrous vitriol (ferrous sulfate)

• For the prevention, treatment and fight against scab, lichen, rot, moss;
• Gives the much-needed iron for the growth of apple trees and tree trunks;
• Pest control (destruction of laid eggs).

Use 3-5% solution:

• Early before bud break;
• Late autumn how the leaves fall.

Be careful with deadlines! May scorch emerging buds and leaves.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate)

• Use for prevention and control fungal diseases(scab, black cancer, fruit rot, moniliosis);
• Disinfects wounds on trees during debris and sawing;
• Disinfects the soil.

Apply in spring before bud break, after flowering and in autumn.

Bordeaux liquid (a mixture of lime and copper sulfate)

• For prevention and treatment fungal diseases:
  • you can cook either 1% or 3%;
  • use immediately after cooking (flakes may form).
• Carry out preventive treatments after 10-12 days;
• Effective with 2-3 treatments.

Little inconvenience! It requires compliance with the cooking technology, and additional time.

From scab with urea (this is urea)

Apply:

• For prevention and treatment from scab, spotting;
• Against aphids, apple beetle, weevil, sucker;
• Increases productivity thanks to nitrogen.

• With a strong accumulation of pests, increase the concentration to 7%;
• Application - early spring and late autumn.

Horus

• Very much in demand;
• Universal:
  • a lot of diseases do not tolerate it;
  • improves even the quality of fruits and their safety.
• Reliable:
  • works after a few hours and at low temperatures.

Apply:

• Before flowering.
• After flowering.
• 2 weeks before fruit maturity.

Boric acid

The absence (deficiency) of boron is reflected in the leaves ( wrinkle), fruits ( necrosis).

Apply for:

• Increase in productivity (more ovary);
• Increasing resistance (resistance) to diseases and weather conditions;
• For spraying leaves.

Boron is contained in boron fertilizers (boric superphosphate, boric acid).

Fitosporin

• For prevention powdery mildew, wilt, scab and other fungal diseases;
• Soak roots and seeds;
• Spend once every two weeks during the growing season.

Preparation prestige (insecticide-fungicide)

It is also called a protector:

• Vs. burrowing and sucking pests, May beetle larvae, bears;
• From diseases.

May beetle larva.

In the garden and for the apple tree, it is valuable when planting seedlings:

• Refuel into the landing pit when landing;
• Water after planting.

Attention! After 40 days, it decomposes completely and then it is no longer dangerous.

Hom

• Prevention scab and moniliosis;
• Contains copper;
• Low toxicity to bees;
• Treat during the growing season:
  • no more than 4 treatments;
  • 20 days before maturity.

Insecticides

Fufanon

Use against:

• Ticks;
• codling moths;
• Leaf rollers;
• sawfly;
• weevil;
• Shchitovok;
• Copperheads and others.

Handle:

• AT growing season;
• No more than 2 treatments in 20 days;
• 20 days before fruit maturity.

Fitoverm

Pests:

• codling moth;
• leaf roller;
• Mite.

Apply during fruit growth one or two treatments.

Karbofos

Pests:

• weevils;
• Ticks;
• Shchitovka;
• codling moth;
• Leaflet.

Attention!

• Potent(use with severe lesions);
• Dangerous for bees.

Intavir

Pests:

• codling moths;
• Leaf rollers;
• Flower beetle;

Apply:

• After flowering(7-10 days after the start of flowering);
• No more than 3 treatments.

Attention! The result will be good if there is no rain in 4-5 hours.

Alatar

Pests:

• leaf roller;
• Flower beetle;
• codling moth;
• moth;
• Copperhead;
• Sawfly.

Apply:

• During the growing season;
• 2-3 treatments;
• 30 days before fruit maturity.

Spark ("Double Effect")

Pests:

• leaf roller;
• codling moth;
• whitefly;
• Flower beetle;
• Weevil;
• Sawfly;
• Thrips.

Properties:

• Versatile and fast action;
• Double action (has a potassium component as top dressing).
• Apply after 10-15 days;
• 3-4 treatments.

Imidacloprid (Confidor, Admir)

• Systemic, intestinal and contact;
• Validity -15-20 days;
• The result is valid 3-5 days after treatment.

Aktara

• No smell, dissolves well;
• Long period of action;
• Works in hot weather
• Good compatibility with many fungicides.

Pests - sucking and chewing insects:

• Shchitovka;
• Whitefly.

Best used with adhesives once during the growing season.

California scale insect on an apple tree.

Decis pro

Pests:

• codling moth;
• Leaflet.

Attention! Poor compatibility with drugs that have an alkaline reaction.

Treatment by pest type

In order to avoid wormy apples, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures to combat codling moth from the appearance of butterflies until autumn (see below).

From the scab in the spring

• After spring pruning (but before the appearance of leaves) - urea 5%;
• Before the appearance of fruits - preparations containing copper (copper oxychloride, etc.);
• After harvesting - 1% Bordeaux liquid;
• When infection occurs - a complex of minerals (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, potassium salt).

Scab on an apple tree.

From the codling moth and so that there are no wormy apples

• Caterpillars appear 12-15 days after the early apples bloom;
• In winter are under the bark, in hollows, in the soil.

• Clean the trunks of dry bark on the film and burn;
• Dig the soil around the trunks;
• Install and clean trapping belts;
• Carry out spraying:
  • after shedding the petals of winter apple trees;
  • repeat in two weeks.

Apply karbofos, chlorophos, trichograms.

Apple flower beetle (fruit weevil)

In winter is in fallen leaves, under the bark.

Spray:

• When buds open;
• When falling off the ovary against young beetles.

Chlorophos is very effective.

From fruit rot (or moniliosis)

The disease is infectious and contributes to it:

• Uncollected sick apples, both fallen and on a tree (including last year);
• Damage by various pests.

• Collect and destroy affected fruits;
• Process the tree:
  • from pests with insecticides (primarily codling moths);
  • from diseases - Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.

From leaflet

• Hiding in winter in bark, on branches near buds;
• Appears with swelling and opening of the kidneys;
• Rolls the leaves.

Process:

• Nitrafen in early spring;
• Infusions of tobacco;
• Karbofos;
• Chlorophos.

Install:

• Trapping belts;
• Jars of fermenting molasses for catching butterflies.

Leaflet.

From insects (and there are many)

• Pests bark- bark beetles, scale insects, ticks.
• Pests foliage, ovaries, flowers, buds- caterpillars and beetles of leafworm, hawthorn, sucker.
• Pests fruits- caterpillars of leafworms and codling moths, sawflies.
• sucking pests -.

To make them smaller:

• Collect and destroy fallen leaves and fruits;
• Dig near-stem soil;
• Whitewash the trunks with lime;
• Install trapping belts;
• Spray trees with insecticides.

The whole garden, not just the apple tree, can be helped by planting plants, which, if not destroy, then repel harmful insects: garlic, calendula, tobacco, celery, sage, mint, chamomile, rosemary, dill, elderberry.

I would call this word everyone who harms the apple tree. We have listed the most dangerous ones (including when and how to defeat them). Make sure they do the least harm.

From ants

At one time I was an ardent supporter of their usefulness for the garden, but time is running out. Now for me an ant colony is aphid carriers:

• You can make dippers with water if you have a lot of old tires;
• Build trapping belts and clean them periodically.

Still use drugs Antimuravey and others.

From caterpillars

It could be leafworm, and codling moth(which we have already covered above), and hawthorn, and apple sawfly, silkworm and others:

• Therefore, the fight against them must be carried out not only when they are already crawling, but even at earlier stages and in a complex;
• Agrotechnics and spraying.

From lichen

Appears on old apple trees. Prevention is done early in the vein and in the fall:

• In a timely manner ;
• Strip the trunks hard nylon or metal brush:
  • from growths;
  • from exfoliating bark.
• lubricate cleared places:
  • clay mixed with lime;
  • a thick solution of lime and copper sulfate;
  • strong 10% concentration of ferrous sulfate.

It is believed that the lichen even protects the tree.

From the whitefly

This quarantine pest can be a vector viral and fungal diseases.

Handle:

• Biological: Bitoxibacillin, Aktofit - 2-4 treatments at the vegetation stage;
• Chemical: treatment with one drug is not enough. You already know insecticides (Fufanon, Preparation 30V, Aktara, Confidor maxi, Iskra m, Karbofos and others);
• Folk remedies: infusions of onion peel garlic, yarrow (treatment every 2-3 days).

Whitefly.

I remember a time when remedies for garden pests could be listed on the fingers. Now even an experienced gardener is not easy to understand the proposed preparations.

There are specialized shops. Experts can advise. Since the market that is not a drug, all in one word "Bomb".

I'm sure it all depends on you!

In contact with

- one of the most unpretentious orchids, which is easy to grow at home.

You can buy it in almost every flower shop and large supermarkets.

One of the controversial issues in the care of an orchid is whether spraying a plant is useful?

It is possible and necessary to spray the plant, only it must be done correctly in order to prevent harm.

Spraying phalaenopsis orchids at home

Tropics with a humid and warm climate - natural plant habitat.

In order for phalaenopsis to grow well and delight in flowering, it is important create a suitable microclimate in the apartment and stick to the ground rules.

Tropical plant - Phalaenopsis orchid.

Among them - maintaining high humidity, the optimal level of lighting and temperature conditions.

During the summer temperature should be kept at an average of 20-25°C, and in winter - 18-20°C.

Phalaenopsis doesn't like drafts and hot scorching sun.

In summer you can arrange air baths for the plant, for this it is taken out to the balcony or to the street.

Taking into account the climate to which they are accustomed in natural habitats, humidity level the room should be at least 40%, and preferably 60%.

In winter such indicators are more difficult to achieve than in summer, due to heating.

You can use the following ways to maintain the required level of humidity:

• To prevent access of hot air to phalaenopsis, you can install a barrier above the battery;
• Installing a pot with a plant on a pallet with expanded clay and water, it is important to ensure that the roots do not come into contact with water;
• Daily spraying of phalaenopsis.

The room in which the plant is located it is important to ventilate well, even in winter.

In this case, air should not fall on the flower.

No drafts allowed.

Phalaenopsis after airing should be sprayed.

If the humidity is too high, good ventilation required Otherwise, spots may appear on the leaves, and the roots will begin to rot.

Low humidity can cause dropping of flowers and loss of leaf turgor.

Technology

Do I need to spray the Phalaenopsis orchid? Certainly!

Spraying is an important component behind Phalaenopsis, as all members of the Orchid family love moist air.

It is important to properly spray phalaenopsis.

Too dry air you can use a humidifier. If the air is not too dry- constant spraying is enough.

Advice! Every month, the orchid should be bathed in the shower, after the procedure, you need to wipe the leaves dry.

In winter time orchids are sprayed daily. At low temperature air, the number of sprays should be reduced to prevent hypothermia.

Summer humidity is higher, so you can spray not the flower itself, but the air near it. For spraying and it is necessary to use water settled for two days.

Preference is given melt or rain water. She is should be warm, 2 degrees above the room temperature.

If the tap water is hard, then you can take boiled or distilled. Spraying the plant is desirable spend in a dark place.

In this case, the jet must be directed from the bottom up or perpendicular to the barrel. After spraying the flower is placed on the windowsill, if there is no sun, or shaded from the sun's rays.

Do not spray leaves if the plant is in direct sunlight. This can lead to sunburn.

After spraying blot the core with a cotton swab to remove excess water.

On hot days the aerial roots of the plant must be sprayed, as well as the leaves. Their purpose is to receive additional oxygen.

The jet must be directed from the bottom up or perpendicular to the trunk.

But dry air they can help the plant get moisture by taking over the functions of the main roots.

Phalaenopsis sprayed in the morning so that by the evening the moisture has time to evaporate. For the night spraying the plant is undesirable.

Since by the evening the temperature in the room may drop and remaining on the plant water can cause hypothermia and various diseases.

top dressing

In order for phalaenopsis to develop normally, throughout the year it should.

Depending on the stage of development different feeds are required :

• Stage of active growth - nitrogen;
• Aging stage - potassium and phosphorus;
• Flowering stage - phosphorus 2 times a month.

Important! It is better to underfeed an orchid than to overfeed it. The spray solution must be of low concentration, otherwise you can get a burn on the leaves.

Summer plants are fed once a week, in the rest of the period - 1-2 times a month.

in winter the number of top dressings should be reduced to 1 time per month, while increasing the amount of potassium and phosphorus.

Growth stimulants and vitamins

When growing phalaenopsis adaptor can be used enes and growth regulators- epin and ecosil:

• Appin increases plant resistance to adverse conditions and diseases. The solution is sprayed on the plant after, during and after pest control, in case of flooding or frostbite of the plant. 1 ampoule in a volume of 1 ml of the drug is diluted in 5 liters of water. epin plant is not allowed!
• Ecosil- growth regulator with fungicidal properties. They can be sprayed with orchids during the growth period to increase the plant's resistance to adverse conditions. A solution is prepared for spraying: 20 drops of the drug per 3 liters of water.

Spraying orchids with vitamin B1- thiamine is aimed at increasing the size of flowers, accelerating budding, protecting orchids from aging, improving the movement of juice in cells.

To prepare the solution, 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water is used. Phalaenopsis are sprayed 1-2 times a month during active growth.

Pest control

Sometimes phalaenopsis can suffer from harmful insects:

• Shchitovki;
• mealybug;
• Green aphid.

Insects that harm phalaenopsis.

You can get rid of them spraying the plant with special preparations:

• Intavir,
• Karbofos.

When yellowish or reddish spots appear on the leaves - rust, the plant should be sprayed with topaz.

Important! Orchids may not tolerate chemical treatments well. Therefore, if treatment is necessary, check the effect of the drug on one sheet.

If there are no negative consequences, then you can process the plant completely. Otherwise, use traditional methods of treatment.

In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases and pests monthly it is necessary to spray orchids with foundationazole or oxycom.

Snails and slugs are the most dangerous. When they appear it is necessary to treat the plant with mesurol.

Useful video

Watch the video on how to deal with pests:

Watch the video, is it possible to spray the phalaenopsis orchid?

Watch the video on how to fertilize phalaenopsis:

Watch the video for the basic rules on how to successfully grow phalaenopsis:

Conclusion

It is not so difficult to care for: how to spray a phalaenopsis orchid and create a microclimate.

It is important to comply with the conditions of their content:

• Lots of scattered light
• Fresh, humid air.

Phalaenopsis will delight you with its lush flowering.

Thanks to such conditions and the implementation of simple rules, phalaenopsis will delight you with its lush flowering up to 9-10 months during the year.

In contact with

If the trees are not given due attention, even with excellent seedlings and varieties from the orchard, it is hardly possible to wait for a good harvest. One of the most important care activities is spraying fruit trees in the spring.

Timely and well-executed procedure:

• will help to build reliable protection against a mass of dangerous plant diseases;
• prevent pest infestations;
• will create a reserve for future flowering and harvest.

One of the most important events that opens the new summer season is aimed at the destruction of pests that are still hidden from the eyes of the gardener. Many of the worst enemies of fruit trees overwinter and develop inside the bark, in the surface layer of soil under the trees, and even inside the buds.

At what time in the spring will the treatment of fruit trees from pests bring the greatest benefit? To prevent the mass appearance of an army of insects, the first battle with it is carried out when the average daily temperature overcomes the barrier of +5 ° C, and the main snow cover comes down. It is impossible to give exact dates, because much depends on the climatic features of the region and the conditions of a particular year.

Spring processing of fruit trees before bud opening

In most areas of the middle lane, preparations for spraying should begin from mid-March.

What is this preparation? Before proceeding with the spring processing of fruit trees from pests:

• plants are inspected for damaged and dead shoots, cracks and wounds on the bark, grinding of branches and other problems;
• carry out the detected dry shoots;
• they clean the trunks and skeletal branches from lichens and exfoliated bark damaged during the winter;
• under trees and shrubs, they clean up last year's foliage and other debris in order to exclude the reproduction of soil pests and not only treat pests of fruit trees in the spring, but also clean the trunk circles under the plantations.

All of these measures are aimed at reducing the risk of spreading infections from dead parts of plants to healthy ones. Therefore, after filing and cleaning all wound surfaces and cuts on shrubs and in spring, using a 1-3% solution of the substance in water. And only then is the incorporation of garden pitch carried out.

How to spray fruit trees in spring?

The choice of drugs for pest and disease control today is so wide that when visiting a store it is difficult to navigate in colored packages. What means are suitable for spraying fruit trees in spring?

The most popular tool among gardeners in Russia can be recognized. Copper sulfate is a fungicide that successfully resists such common diseases of fruit trees and berry bushes as powdery mildew and scab. It can be used in any weather throughout the year.

To make the processing of fruit trees in spring with copper sulphate more effective, they are prepared on its basis. To do this, vitriol is mixed in equal proportions with slaked lime.

The resulting blue liquid not only has the properties of a fungicide, it:

• fights bacterial infections;
• helps to cope with certain types of insects.

Spring spraying of fruit trees with iron sulphate is also aimed at combating plant diseases, but at the same time it is used as foliar fertilizing with an iron preparation. As in the case of copper sulfate, two treatments of the garden with iron sulphate are required to achieve a lasting effect.

In early spring, diesel fuel is effectively used to treat trees from pests wintering under the bark. Forming a thin film that does not allow air to pass through, it is deposited on the surface of the bark and does not allow insects to breathe. Usually the effect comes in a few hours. The larvae and eggs deposited in the kidneys and under the bark die without developing into an adult insect.

Spraying fruit trees in spring before and after flowering

The second stage of the attack on diseases and pests is carried out when the plants are preparing to bloom, the buds have already opened, and also at the stage of the appearance of the ovary. At this time, the main emphasis is on the extermination of pests, as well as consolidating the results of the fight against diseases and infections.

How to spray fruit trees in spring in order to harvest a full-fledged healthy crop in summer? Garden processing is carried out in two steps:

• when colored buds are just emerging on the trees;
• when most of the petals fly around, and the first signs of the ovary become visible on the branches.

At this stage, complex insecticides are used in combination with fungicidal agents. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the foliar treatment of trees or urea. The chemical drug perfectly copes with several tasks at the same time:

• fights most diseases of apple, pear and stone fruits, including all kinds of rot;
• destroys pests at the stage of eggs and pupae;
• is a nitrogen supplement that simulates the growth of green mass.

In large gardens located far beyond the boundaries of residential properties, spring treatment of fruit trees from pests is carried out using the DNOC preparation, which simultaneously acts against ticks, insects and pathogens.

The drug is toxic, so when using it, serious safety measures are needed. The treatment is carried out in very early spring or autumn, when the plants do not show signs of active growth.

Recently popular drugs of biological origin are good for disease prevention. If the tree is already sick or damaged by pests, such remedies, although they are safer for the plants themselves and humans, will not help much, or may not cope with the problem at all.

How is fruit trees sprayed in spring?

How to spray garden plantings? How much solution may be required to irrigate a particular tree?

If you refer to the instructions attached to the chemical plant protection products, there are always the proportions of dilution of the drug, as well as the approximate flow rate of liquid per square meter. But how to be guided by these figures, when the spraying of fruit trees in spring is carried out not only on the ground, but primarily on the crown?

That is why it is extremely important to prepare a high-quality sprayer before the beginning of spring, which allows using a directed jet to moisten the most inaccessible areas of the tree. As a rule, a good apparatus saves chemicals, avoiding waste and providing a powerful fine jet. A video about spraying fruit trees in the spring will help you master the technique of competent selection of drugs and irrigation of plants. Processing can be considered completed when the crown of a tree or shrub is wetted from all sides, the trunk and root area of ​​the soil are processed, where insects can hide and fungal spores hibernate.

Spraying fruit trees in early spring - video

If someone believes that by planting an apple tree in the country, he is guaranteed to provide himself with a plentiful harvest of apples for the rest of his life, then you can be very disappointed.

Planting a tree (like giving birth to a son) is just the first small step on a long journey that you have to go through before the first results of your labors make themselves felt. A tree, like a child, must be taken care of constantly, otherwise diseases and pests can cause irreparable harm to your offspring.

Why you need to spray trees and shrubs in the spring

The beginning of the season, that is, the period when garden trees and shrubs, waking up after the winter cold, begin to accumulate strength to form a fruit mass, is exactly the time when you need to take maximum care of their protection. That's why processing trees in the spring from pests and diseases is an important stage in gardening.

In fact, spring is an insidious period. On the one hand, the tree needs time to recover after a long stay in extreme conditions of severe frost, on the other hand, various pests, having also woken up from hibernation, begin to actively feed, with pleasure attacking barely blossoming leaves and flowers. It is not surprising that tree care in the spring includes mandatory pest control, because if you do not intervene in the process, you may not wait for the harvest. Of course, it will not be possible to destroy all harmful insects in the garden, although such a task is not set. It is much more important to drive uninvited guests out of the garden, to make your trees and shrubs as unattractive as possible for such pests, both from the point of view of nutrition and from the point of view of “living”.

Another important argument in favor of the spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases is that this period excludes the direct effect of pesticides on the ovaries and fruits (simply because they have not yet formed), therefore, the fight against garden pests in the spring minimizes the risk of subsequent poisoning with such drugs as a result of eating processed fruits and berries.

Thus, the main task of spraying the garden in the spring is to prevent pests and diseases that will lie in wait for your site throughout the season, including when the use of fungicides and insecticides will negatively affect the ecological purity of the crop.

Of course, ideally, we all want to show off fruits and berries grown “without chemistry”. However, it is very important to maintain a healthy balance and sense of proportion. Breeders all over the world are struggling to create plant varieties that are resistant to certain diseases, but it has not yet been possible to develop a species that is completely immune to harmful external influences, and it is hardly possible at all, since nature itself has conceived a scheme in which “everyone eats everyone ". Therefore, we should expect that the fruits of the tree, which are not affected by any pest, will also be inedible for humans, because we are also part of the animal world.

In addition, even if the manufacturer assures you that this particular variety (for example, apple trees) is absolutely not affected by scab, you should treat such statements with a healthy dose of skepticism. And this does not mean that you are being deceived. The fact is that the development of certain diseases, as well as the spread of various pests, largely depends on specific external conditions that are constantly changing. In addition, insects and carriers of infectious diseases tend to mutate and adapt to new realities. No wonder they say that you can not use the same fungicide in the garden - the preparations must be constantly changed to ensure the best result.

The main enemies of fruit trees, against which spring spraying is directed, are caterpillars, butterflies, various beetles and aphids. So, if you do not spray the apple tree at the very beginning of the season, the aphid begins to actively suck the juice from the greens and flowers, and also deforms the bark of the tree, forming ugly growths on it, which then crack and turn into gaping wounds. As a result, the tree may stop growing and die. The same danger awaits pears, plums, apricots, cherry plums and other fruit trees.

The cockchafer is very fond of eating leaves and ovaries, and its favorite delicacy is the plum tree. While an adult is rampaging on the surface, its numerous larvae infect the root system of trees, which is especially dangerous for young seedlings. Timely spraying can help rid the garden of such a scourge.

Caterpillars and butterflies are also happy to eat the greens and fruits of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, so the protection of such trees in the spring will save the future harvest.

The above fully applies to the processing of shrubs (black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.), since it is in the spring that the main measures should be taken to protect all plants from pests and diseases.

How to spray trees in the spring from diseases and pests

Currently, there are many options for how to treat fruit trees from pests in the spring. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

• biological preparations;
• chemicals;
• "improvised" means, which are usually used by ardent opponents of the first two options, considering this method to be safer for health (and, of course, more economical).

Thus, the choice of a protective agent depends on the personal preferences of the gardener, but, in addition, on the condition of the garden (there are cases when the use of radical processing methods is vital in order to save the garden from imminent death).

Biological agents

Biological garden treatments are gaining popularity as a direct alternative to chemicals.

Their effect on harmful insects and carriers of diseases is exerted not by an artificially synthesized toxic substance, but by living organisms (bacteria, bacterial viruses, antagonist fungi, and even insects). Also, as an alternative, not the living being itself is used, but the toxin (biotoxin) it secretes.

Such biological agents can be “started” on the site on their own, creating conditions that attract beneficial insects. This role can be performed, say, by mustard, buckwheat, dill and other honey plants planted in the country. However, such preventive measures are usually not enough to reliably protect the garden, so scientists have developed numerous preparations based on the action of beneficial organisms. Let's consider some of them.

is an excellent antagonist of a number of pathogenic fungi (including pathogens of scab, various types of rot, late blight and other unpleasant diseases). The plant itself does not experience any harm from the action of Trichoderma, on the contrary, this fungus releases substances that make the plant more resistant to related diseases. Treatment with the drug can be carried out from the moment the buds open and continue throughout the season.

"Planris" is a soil bacteria that protects the garden from powdery mildew, root and root rot, leaf rust, septoria (often affecting raspberries), as well as lepidopteran pests.

"Pentafage" - a proven way to prevent diseases of fruit crops with bacterial cancer, damage by perforated spotting of stone fruits. In addition, it is a good prevention against scab and powdery mildew.

"Phytodoctor" inhibits the development of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, in particular, protects fruit trees from late blight, bacterial cancer, root and fruit rot, mold, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, etc.

protects the garden from such fungal and bacterial diseases as scab, wilting, late blight, root rot, powdery mildew, leaf rust and others.

"Mikosan" protects fruit trees from fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Its action is based on covering the organs of the plant with a protective film that prevents the pathogen from infecting them. The drug strengthens the immunity of the tree and helps it cope with the disease on its own. This tool should be used separately from any other drugs, at the rate of 0.1 kg of the substance per 4-8 liters of water.

"Gaupsin" proved to be an effective remedy against aphids, codling moth, leafworm, cherry and plum flies. Of the diseases, the zone of influence of the drug is powdery mildew, late blight and others. Also, the tool saturates the plant with the nitrogen it needs.

"Bitoxibacillin" also well protects the garden from gnawing and lepidoptera pests (spider mites, cabbage moths, hawthorn, silkworms and others). Its action is based on a violation of the intestinal function of the insect, as a result of which the larva dies.

"Aktofit" destroys caterpillars, ticks, whiteflies, aphids.

provides protection against various fungal diseases and, like gaupsin, releases nitrogen molecules from the air. A distinctive feature of the drug is its very fast, in comparison with other biological means of protection, action (the active substance reaches the root system of the tree in less than half an hour after spraying).

"Healthy Garden" - another means to protect trees from aphids, codling moth, powdery mildew and other pests and diseases.

From ticks and codling moths, the drug "Fitoverm" can help get rid of silkworm caterpillars, leafworms, scoops, moths, cabbage, etc. - Lepidocide.

Biological products have a number of unconditional advantages: they do not accumulate in the soil, do not harm the plant, and their consumption is much lower than that of other drugs. But there are also some disadvantages. In general, such compounds take much longer to achieve a beneficial effect, while a chemical poison acts much faster.

Important! The use of biological preparations can be started only when the average daily temperature is at least +10° C. At this time, pathogenic bacteria and pests, which are the food of the organisms presented in the biological product, awaken and begin to develop. Otherwise, such biological weapons are powerless, so that the earliest treatment of the garden can be carried out only with the help of chemistry.

Chemicals

Treatment of the garden with chemicals (pesticides) is considered the most effective way to protect trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.

Did you know? The word pesticide comes from two Latin words: pestis (contagion) and caedere (kill). The concept of "pesticides" includes the following groups of poisons: herbicides - act against weeds, insecticides - against harmful insects, fungicides - against pathogens of fungal diseases, zoocides - against warm-blooded animals (for example, rodents). Most often, pesticides, as their name suggests, kill one or another pest, but there are also sterilizers that cause sterility, as well as growth inhibitors that inhibit the development of insects..

Modern pesticides act very quickly and retain their effect for a long time, but, unlike biological products, they can be addictive to pests.

As mentioned above, treatment of plants in early spring does not pose a risk to human or domestic animal health, since after a certain time after application, most pesticides completely decompose. Another advantage of chemicals is that they dissolve well in water and are mainly sold in packages that are convenient for quick use.

At the same time, unlike biological products, the correct dosage of pesticides plays a decisive role: exceeding the recommended dose can lead to plant damage (burn, reduced pollen viability, destruction of pistils) and environmental damage, while a “lack” provokes the production of harmful pesticides. organisms immune to the corresponding poison.

Important! It is necessary to work with chemicals only following the safety rules as much as possible, since the toxin can harm humans and pets not only when swallowed, but also through the skin and respiratory tract.

It is best to carry out spring treatment of trees and shrubs with special complex preparations, which are a mixture of fungicide and insecticide. In this case, the plant is simultaneously protected from both diseases and pests.

A possible replacement for such a complex preparation is ordinary urea. The first treatment of the garden in early spring is recommended to be carried out with a higher concentration of carbamide (urea), adding a little copper sulfate to the mixture. An additional advantage of this composition is its ability to briefly (for a week or two) slow down the awakening of the tree, and as a result, it is protected from unexpected frosts during flowering (this is especially true for plum trees).

After flowering, the trees should be sprayed with a less concentrated solution of urea. Such treatment will save the garden from aphids, leafworms, apple beetles, suckers.

An overdose of urea can lead to burns on the leaf plate, therefore, when diluting urea with water, you need to be extremely careful.

Spring spraying of fruit plants with copper sulphate is also popular. The procedure is carried out in early March, before the first buds appear, since this pesticide in the concentration necessary to achieve the effect causes a burn on young leaves. An exception is the situation when it is necessary to disinfect a wound on a tree.

Copper sulphate has a detrimental effect on pathogens of curliness, moniliosis, coccomycosis and clasterosporosis, phyllosticosis, scab and other diseases. The drug is recommended to process plums, pears and apple trees.

Important! Copper sulfate is very poisonous! Therefore, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of the drug or its residues into water bodies or other sources of water supply, as this can lead to the death of fish, animals and create serious health problems for people.

Most often, copper sulfate is mixed in equal parts with lime. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux liquid and protects the garden from most diseases and pests, while being relatively harmless.

These and other copper preparations such as (copper oxychloride), (copper oxychloride and oxadisil), etc. well protect trees and shrubs from fungal diseases, but they should be used no more than once a year. Therefore, if such spraying was carried out in the fall, in the spring you need to choose a different type of treatment.

Until the buds have blossomed on the trees, you can treat them with iron sulphate. In addition to protecting against pests, this drug has another function - it saturates plants with iron necessary for their proper development, this is especially important for trees with iron-containing fruits, such as apple trees, pears and plums.

"Drug 30 V" during early spring spraying, it is aimed at the destruction of pests that overwinter on the bark of fruit trees. First of all, it is a leafworm, a worm, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and false scales, moths, suckers, fruit mites. The drug forms a film on the bark, which kills the larvae "lurking" inside and destroys the eggs of insects. The disadvantage of the pesticide is a very long decay period, in connection with which the manufacturer warns against using it more than once every three years.

Some summer residents treat the garden with diesel fuel, but this oil product has a very destructive effect on the ecosystem. Therefore, if you do not work at a car depot, where “shoe polish is just heaps up,” use less aggressive chemicals in the garden. But if you still decide to take a chance, then the drug, firstly, can be used very early (even before the kidneys swell), and secondly, its concentration should be minimal, and to enhance the effect, it is better not only to dilute it with water, but also to mix it with other chemicals. There is one exception: diesel fuel can really help protect an apple or plum tree from rotting, for example, in the event of a fracture.

Folk remedies

For opponents of chemistry, a number of folk remedies used for spring gardening can be recommended. Here, however, it should be noted that many pest-damaging plants that form the basis for spraying cannot physically be obtained in early spring. In this case, it is sometimes possible to use stocks dried from last year, but if the “recipe” suggests the presence of fresh grass, it can be used at later stages, and in early spring the trees can be protected with chemistry. Actually, this approach looks quite logical: until the bud has blossomed, we use a more “heavy” and dangerous protection for the tree itself, and after the leaves bloom, flowering and ovaries appear, we use the “light option” as a “control shot”.

For spraying the garden, pest-intolerant plants such as: field thistle (it is recommended to take freshly picked), chilli pepper (you can take dried), walnut (dry leaves), sweet and bitter nightshade (you need fresh stem tops with leaves, buds and flowers), tansy (dried inflorescences), wormwood (you can take dried), chamomile, Dolmatian, Caucasian (you can take dried), sarsazan (you can take dried shoots), tomato tops (you can use dried or take from last year's compost), garlic (crushed cloves), coniferous needles, bird cherry (you can take dry branches with leaves), leaf-tailed or thick-fruited sophora (dried greens collected during the flowering period), tobacco (shag) and many others.

The principle of preparing the solution is approximately the same: the raw material is crushed, filled with water, infused and filtered. Proportions, if desired, can be peeped on the network. In addition to herbal preparations, spraying is also carried out with saline or a solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride (the latter helps to get rid of aphids and leaf-eating caterpillars).

Aphids and suckers are also driven out by fumigating fruit trees with tobacco dust (it is poured on straw, which is set on fire in the garden).

In general, we can say that folk remedies for gardening are certainly not as harmful to the environment as pesticides (although some concentrates can burn a tree), but their effectiveness is incommensurably lower.

Therefore, when choosing one or another method of protection, one should proceed from a lot of factors: from the weather to the condition of your garden, the age of the trees, the prevalence in the region and the infestation of a particular area by one or another pest, etc. It is also important to choose the right time exactly when you are going to process fruit trees from pests: in early spring, at the beginning of flowering or after it.

When you need garden treatment from diseases and pests

The timing of the processing of fruit trees from pests in the spring, as we already understood, can be different. Some drugs should be used as early as possible, due to their particular aggressiveness, others can be used even during flowering and after the formation of ovaries.

In any case, competent garden processing in the spring includes four stages:

Only such comprehensive work will allow us to protect the garden as much as possible, because if in early spring we first of all destroy microorganisms, then in April the main goal of spraying is to protect the buds from fungal diseases, scab, powdery mildew, leafworms, weevils, apple flower beetle and other beetles, and in May - protect the ovaries from later pests.

Features of processing the garden in early spring

The very first cultivation of the garden is considered perhaps the most important. Pests and carriers of diseases that have overwintered in the bark and tree trunks should be destroyed preventively before they have recovered from hibernation and have not begun their dirty work.

The snow has melted, the temperature has risen above zero, it was a windless day - and for work!

We already know how to spray trees in the spring before bud break: we use pesticides, the aggressiveness of which is not yet terrible for a tree, but deadly for pests.

We use Bordeaux liquid for the first spraying at a concentration of up to 3%. You can buy a ready-made kit with properly selected components, or you can make the drug yourself by mixing 0.45 kg of lime and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate in a bucket of water (10 l).

You can also spray the trees with Nitrofen or a mixture of urea and copper sulfate (0.7 kg and 0.05 kg, respectively, per bucket of water). Instead of urea, some gardeners use nitrogen or potash fertilizers, but not chlorine-containing ones. In any case, the fertilizer should be used immediately after dilution, otherwise it will lose all its effectiveness.

Trees and shrubs should be treated completely - from the trunk (especially in places of cracks) and the near-stem circle to the tips of the branches. Before spraying, be sure to thoroughly clean the trunk with a brush.

In addition, you need to keep in mind that different plants do not wake up after winter at the same time, so if you tighten it with the first treatment, especially early trees and shrubs can be burned. So, if apples, pears and plums are sprayed in mid-March, then, say, the growing season for blackcurrants may begin earlier. Accordingly, it is better to divide the procedure into several stages than to try to do it in one day and, as a result, rinse young kidneys with poison.

Spraying trees and bushes before flowering

As it was said, before the beginning of flowering, after the swelling of the buds, and also right on the buds (before they blossomed), the garden is re-treated. If spraying is carried out with pesticides, a weaker concentration of them should be used (for example, if we diluted the Bordeaux liquid to a 3% solution during the first treatment, now we use 1% solution).

However, it is preferable at this stage to use more modern drugs that can be purchased in specialized stores. For example, by mixing the Horus fungicide and the Aktar insecticide, you will simultaneously protect the garden from both fungal diseases and insect pests. The same mixture can be reapplied after flowering trees. Such drugs as "Fufanon", "Decis" and others have proven themselves well.

The nuances of processing the garden during the flowering period

The question "Is it possible to spray trees during flowering?" is quite debatable. Many gardeners categorically do not recommend doing this, since you can damage the inflorescences and disrupt the entire subsequent process of fruit set.

In general, there is no doubt that during the flowering period it is definitely impossible to use strong pesticides that can harm not only flowers, but also bees actively “working” in a blooming garden.

If, for one reason or another, you did not have time to process the garden before the flowers appeared, then it is still better later than never. Processing the garden during this period will protect the tree from aphids, mites, leafworms, suckers, sawflies and other pests, as well as from many insidious diseases. You can use phosphorus-containing organic preparations, for example, "Fufanon" or "Aktellik". In warmer times, use Fitoverm, Akarin, Iskra Bio, Entobacterin and other biological preparations, because we remember that they are safe for wood, but deadly for pathogens and harmful insects.

Treatment of trees and shrubs after flowering

Spraying fruit trees and shrubs after flowering is the final stage of the spring protection of the garden from diseases and pests . Its main goal is to destroy leafworm caterpillars, apple codling moth, weevils, moths, aphids, mites and prevent possible garden diseases.

Processing should be carried out no later than three weeks after the trees and shrubs have faded.

There are a lot of modern garden preparations during this period, so there should be no problems with choosing the most suitable one. But what you definitely shouldn’t spray trees after flowering is pesticides in high concentrations. It is better at this stage to give preference to biological products or more gentle chemical agents. For the May spraying of fruit trees, for example, you can use the following preparations: Brunka, Blue Bordeaux, Fital, Delan, Saprol, Fury, Fastak, Talstar, Fufanon, "Decis", "Karate", "Confidor", "Apercut", "Koragen".

The fungicide "Skor" recommended for use at this stage is also effective and low-toxic. The choice depends on many factors, in particular, each drug is aimed at combating certain pests, which, in turn, have their own preferences among fruit trees. Therefore, read the instructions and select the optimal mixture.

So, for example, for apricot, the greatest danger is perforated spotting and monilial burn, of pests - aphids, leafworms, moths.

Peach, fading, is often affected by curly foliage and clasterosporium, and it is also often attacked by the codling moth. Plum trees are prone to moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, polystigmosis, among insects their main enemies are mites, aphids, leafworms, codling moths. Cherry and cherry orchards after flowering can affect klesterosporiosis and coccomycosis. Cherry flies are very fond of laying eggs under the skin of fruits at the moment they are set, and these trees also infect aphids and leafworms.

Apple and pear trees suffer from scab and powdery mildew, among pests, apple codling moth, mites, aphids, and sawflies are dangerous for them.

Important! At this stage, it is better to spray the garden in the evening: caterpillars hiding in the foliage by night get out to feast on ovaries and green mass, on which poison is already waiting for them. If the drug has worked, in the morning you will be able to observe a mass phenomenon: a huge number of dead caterpillars hanging from branches on thin cobwebs.

How to properly treat trees and shrubs from diseases and pests

By and large, you can act as you like, but for the safety (of yourself and those around you), as well as to achieve maximum effect, it is better to follow certain rules and recommendations.

You need to start spraying from the crown, gradually moving down. The final stage is the processing of the near-stem circle (it is very important not to forget this area). With the exception of the last spraying, which is carried out during the active "work" of the caterpillars, it is better to treat trees in the early morning.

For the procedure, you need to choose a calm, dry day. Take an interest in the weather forecast and if rain is expected in the next day, postpone the procedure for a few days. With minimal humidity, the active substance will be absorbed faster and cause less damage to the plant. An exception may be some biological products, which, on the contrary, need moisture, so read the instructions before using them. It is also important to correctly calculate the required amount of the drug, since its reuse after a while is absolutely unacceptable: you need to dilute exactly as much as you need for today's processing. In this case, it follows from such calculations: about 5-6 liters of solution “leaves” for an adult tree, from 0.5 to 1.5 liters for shrubs and young trees, depending on their size.

Finally, to make it convenient to work, you should not lower a broom into a bucket and spray it on a tree - better buy a modern sprayer. Today, manufacturers offer the widest selection of models that will allow you to choose the best option depending on the size of your garden (they differ both in volume and power, and, accordingly, in price). Small trees and young seedlings can be sprayed with an ordinary plastic sprayer, and for large gardens, it may be worth investing in an expensive but very reliable electric pump.

Do not forget about personal safety. It is necessary to clearly understand how toxic the drug you are working with is and, depending on this, already adjust your behavior. In any case, the face should be covered with a respirator or gauze bandage, hair should be covered with a scarf or bandana, and eyes should be protected with goggles. Work with gloves and in general it is better not to leave exposed skin. Keep households (especially children) and pets away.

In large garden farms, in order to obtain a large harvest of fruits and berries, 10 to 16 sprayings of trees per season are carried out. Business owners are interested in producing fruits of the most beautiful, “commercial” quality, and the environmental friendliness of this method of agricultural technology is secondary.

And for summer residents, on the contrary: the crop needs environmentally friendly. Everyone has their own priorities. But besides us, a lot of pests also claim the harvest.

Spraying trees in spring in home gardens is carried out 4 times. This is quite enough, the main task is not to miss the moment.

Wake up and begin to fly pests, pathogens at completely different times. And in this case it is important not to miss the first "swallows". And they show up very early. at a temperature of +5 degrees. And in some latitudes it is the month of January!

What reduces the effectiveness of the treatment of trees from pests and diseases

• Precipitation
• High humidity
• Fog
• temperature fluctuations

Spray the tree for the first time before the buds awaken

When to start spraying trees

No one will tell you the exact date. Firstly, the timing depends on the climate, and secondly, on the weather conditions this year. After all, winter can be harsh one year, and the next - warm and with minimal rainfall.

Main landmark:

• Dry sunny weather.
• Plus temperature at night.

First spraying of trees in spring

The first time the trees are processed on dormant buds or bare tree. It is important that the kidneys are even did not start to swell. During this period, spores of fungal diseases scatter. Insects have yet to show up.

The first spraying in the spring is carried out from moniliosis who especially loves stone fruits (cherries, cherries, plums, peaches). It is easily recognizable by the brown withered tips of the branches on the tree, as if the leaves were scorched. The disease is called monilial burn.

And on apple trees and pears (seed crops) they begin to actively multiply scab spores. Source of the disease: withered fruits, leaves left on the tree since autumn. Spores of this disease live under the bark and in fallen leaves.

Preparations for the first spraying of trees

You need to spray with ONE of these drugs!

• Bordeaux mixture 3%
• Pharma Iodine (suitable for organic farming)
• Abiga Peak
• Oksikhom
• Chorus (works at +5 degrees, and at a higher temperature it quickly decomposes)
• inkstone
• Nitrafen
• Carbamide (urea) in a large dose: 700 g per 10 liters of water + 50 g of copper sulfate.

green cone

How to spray trees on a green cone

The second processing of the garden is carried out during the period when the kidneys are already swollen and burst but the leaves haven't started to open yet. The kidneys have tapered view.

This is a critical moment in the fight against apple flower beetle(weevil). Apple trees and pears suffer greatly from it.

The flower beetle lays its larvae in an unopened bud, which turns brown and does not open. Insects feed on the juices of the kidneys, sometimes you can see how the kidneys “cry”: droplets of juice stand out on them.

Pest control products:

• Decis Profi
• Spark
• Inta-Vir
• Fufanon
• Kinmix
• tanrec

Simple, highly effective and safe from apple beetle: lay a film on the ground under a tree. Wrap a cloth on a long stick and knock it on the branches and shake the whole tree. Insects fold their legs and fall down onto the film. They need to be collected and destroyed.

From diseases apply:

• Bordeaux mixture 1%
• Oksikhom
• Horus (if the air temperature is not higher than +5).

During this period hang trapping belts on a tree pole, glue plates, pheromone traps for catching adult females of various pests.

Rosebud phase

Spraying trees in the rosebud phase

Spray BEFORE buds open! At this moment already codling moth flies all over the garden and lays its eggs on the leaves next to the flowers or right in the flower. The larva penetrates the fruit and results in wormy apples.

It is important to treat the entire crown, so you will need a good sprayer with a long hose. With high-quality and TIMELY spraying against the apple codling moth, there will be practically no carrion.

In the spring, be sure to several times necessary.

Pest control products:

• Spark
• Inta-Vir
• Fitoverm (biological, operates at temperatures above 12 degrees)
• Bitoxibacillin (also biological).
• Decis Profi
• Fufanon
• Kinmix
• tanrec

From diseases, if you did not have time to spray in the previous phase, the same preparations are used as for the second spraying.

Important: some drugs can be mixed, read the packaging carefully. It doesn’t matter what to spray first: from diseases or pests. 1-2 days should elapse between treatments.

Rules for spraying trees in spring:

• Spray for the first time for diseases.
• The second is from pests.
• The third - from pests and diseases, if not sprayed earlier.
• Biological preparations should be used at a temperature of +12 degrees and above.
• Horus makes sense to spray only at low temperatures (from 1 to 6 degrees Celsius).
• Process the entire crown and trunk from all sides.

The ovary has appeared - it's time to spray the garden

Fourth tree treatment

The last time the trees are sprayed is when fruitlets the size of peas will be tied. At this moment begins the second wave of moliniosis, and the codling moth again wielding at full strength. By the way, she flies at dusk and at night. A good way to get rid of it is compote bait.

Make apple compote and hang small buckets of compote on a tree. The codling moth will fly to the smell of an apple and thus it will be possible to collect adults. Preparations for spraying are the same as for 3 treatments.

Currant, blackberry, gooseberry sprayed off.