A great way to complement the interior of your home or cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We talk about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. This piece of furniture will become a real decoration for your living room, kitchen or office. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered boards and beams or from leftover materials. To do this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. But there may be no experience in making homemade furniture. We offer you a very simple project to build a strong and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture using this pattern.

It all starts with an idea

How to make a table? You need to start work by selecting a ready-made furniture project for the living room or by drawing up your own diagram of the future product. You don’t have to limit your imagination, but you should remember that the degree of complexity of the drawings should correspond to your level of skill. In the absence of sufficient experience, it is better not to try to collect very complex design.

The design of a table for your home can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First you need to draw a structure of the desired shape, and only then indicate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for the living room is made square or round, but for the kitchen or office (or any small premises) a compact corner or adjustable-size table will do.

The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any; when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be purchased. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small reserve (just in case).

If you are a beginner who is assembling furniture at home for the first time, then it is better for you to give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).

Such materials are very pliable and do not split during assembly. If you are making furniture for the living room and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If the homemade table will be used outside the home, it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.

A forged table with a wooden top will also be durable. A piece of wood decorated with wood will add charm to your yard. forged elements.

To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:

• edged or tongue-and-groove boards, beams with a square cross-section (for legs) and with a rectangular cross-section (for the frame);

• white or yellow wood glue;
• screws (it is advisable to take self-tapping screws measuring 4x60);
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• set of clamps;
• sandpaper or sanding machine.

Making a countertop right

We begin the work with a description of the countertop manufacturing process. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of one method or another? First of all, it depends on the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:

1. Production from boards. This material is characterized by relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice craftsman, then you can make a table with your own hands from tongue-and-groove boards (that is, blanks with ridges and grooves.

An experienced craftsman can assemble living room furniture from edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a short soil carrier. These will be used to connect the boards to each other.

1. Made from a single piece of wood. In this case, you don’t even have to worry about how to make a table with your own hands with a sufficiently strong and beautiful table top. The best option is to purchase plywood made from hard wood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
2. Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is a very cheap way of making furniture for the home, but quite difficult to implement. It will be necessary to select pieces of wood that will harmoniously combine with each other and will not create problems during installation and further use of the product. Putting the leftovers together is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large number of glue or create a base (stiffening ribs).

In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connected with screws and glue. Since all boards are different sizes, the finished product will need to trim off any protruding elements and do a thorough sanding. The result is an original and comfortable table.

The second method involves fastening the remaining materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws), followed by strengthening the structure by installing a subframe or stiffening ribs. This DIY table will be stable and durable.

If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special flavor and originality to the product.

When the countertop is ready, you can leave it overnight to dry thoroughly. The manufacturing technology for this part of the table is approximately the same, regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between the projects in this case lie in the shape that needs to be given to the edges of the boards or a single sheet of wood.

If you are making original corner table ik, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.

However, if unevenness does result, the edges of the table will need to be sanded properly. You can also first fasten the boards together, and then draw a triangle on the workpiece and cut out the finished product.

If you are making a round table for the living room or a product with rounded edges, it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product together, and then draw the lines of future cuts on the workpiece with a pencil or chalk.

The finished countertop for such a project will look like this:

Frame as the basis for a reliable table

The next step is to make a frame for the living room table. The frame is a wooden square (for square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is attached to the tabletop and ensures the fixation of the legs.

Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult even for a beginner. To do this, you need to turn the tabletop upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters in depth and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square using the marks.

After this, you need to cut four pieces of wood of such sizes that correspond to the drawings on the tabletop. To make the frame, it is recommended to take timber rectangular section. A frame made of boards may not be strong enough. Then the frame needs to be attached to the tabletop using glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides higher reliability of the design, however, in this case, the screw heads will be visible on the surface of the tabletop.

We make strong and reliable legs

At the next stage of implementation unusual project I need to make table legs. You can cut off one leg first required height(for the production of legs it is recommended to use a square beam), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4 legs, but 3. After completing the cutting process, you should clamp all the legs together and cut them off so that they are the same length.

At the next stage of work, the legs need to be sanded using a grinding machine or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as this can ruin the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.

The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame so that the top cut touches the table top, and the two sides of the leg are adjacent to the frame. Then the contact lines of the parts must be generously lubricated with glue and connected using fastening screws, which are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that during the screwing process the screws do not split the wood.

It is better to avoid using nails and a hammer when making a standard or corner table, since nails can split the wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.

Be sure to ensure that the legs are attached to the table at the correct angle. One of the advantages of screws is that they are easily adjustable. If necessary, their position can be easily changed. Then the same operations should be performed with the remaining legs. You can also screw the legs through the tabletop, but in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. And the aesthetics of the living room table will suffer from this.

When the glue is completely dry, you need to check the product for stability by shaking it vigorously. However, if you have made a corner table, then you can skip this step. It will touch two walls of the living room or office, and this will give it additional strength. Then all that remains is to sand the surface of the finished product and coat it with wood varnish or special paint. This completes the work. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.

Of course, today everyone has the opportunity to buy any furniture in the store, including a table. But why not make it yourself, with your own hands?

It's not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In addition, you have the opportunity to make a table that will be ideal in size and appearance for the interior of your kitchen or other room.

In addition, hand-made furniture is not only saving money, but also a reason for pride, since not every man knows how to make something these days.

What types of tables are there?

If you decide to make boards yourself, then you need to figure out what types of tables there are and decide what exactly you need.

Simplest - regular table with four legs, table top and frame. Making it will not be difficult even for those who are not experienced in woodworking.

If you are experienced enough in this matter, you can do dinner table round or oval, decorate it with carvings, paintings or burn drawings and patterns onto the surface.

More difficult option is made of boards. In essence, this is the same ordinary table, but quite thick and long crossbars are attached to its legs, on which seat boards are laid on top. This is how we get a table with benches on both sides. Such furniture is well suited both for the kitchen and for installation in the courtyard of a private house or cottage.

If the room only has free space in the corner, make a corner table that will fit perfectly into this unoccupied space. It may not be as convenient to dine at it as at classic table, but you can put a TV, microwave or kettle on it - there will be enough space there.

Another interesting option could be a window sill table.

In essence, this is the same window sill, but significantly expanded and adapted, for example, for a comfortable workplace for a schoolchild.

The advantage of this solution is that the table will be well lit most of the day.

There is also a downside: sitting at such a table in winter, your feet will have to rest against very warm, even hot battery heating, which is not very convenient.

Materials and tools

Buying everything you need to make a table with your own hands is quite simple and will not be difficult or costly. The main material for the dining table is wood, or more precisely:

• Boards from 25 to 50 millimeters thick, 100–150 millimeters wide, quite long.
  The thicker the material for the tabletop, frame and legs, the heavier, but at the same time the more durable they will be.
  Choose boards from good wood, without any defects.
• Beam. It is necessary for making table legs, so choose fairly thick and strong samples. The timber can be replaced with the same boards, if you arrange them in the letter “L”, or use purchased aluminum table legs. You can also use balusters (curly carved wooden posts that support the railings on some stairs) as legs.
• Sheets of chipboard or plywood, which can be used as countertop materials. Choose samples that are thick and strong enough to withstand daily abuse.

As with materials, And Do-it-yourself tools and fasteners are easy to obtain; most homes have them. If something is missing, you can buy it at the nearest hardware store.

• pencil, corner, roulette and ruler;
• jigsaw or hacksaw on wood;
• screwdriver with a set of attachments and drill;
• plane, if it is necessary to pre-treat the boards from unevenness and defects;
• kit self-tapping screws, furniture bolts and nuts;
• sandpaper or Sander;
• varnish or stain, roller or tassel for processing the finished table.

Attention! When working with a jigsaw, always remember the safety rules and keep small children or pets away!

Simple kitchen table made of planks

First we need to make a tabletop.
There are several options here:

• Cut out chipboard sheet or a piece of plywood of the required size using a jigsaw;
• Lay several fairly wide boards and subsequently secure them to the frame;
• Take a large number of relatively narrow boards, place them side up and glue them together using wood glue.
  The result is a fairly thick, heavy and durable tabletop.

Stages of work

Step 1. Assembling from boards table top.

Step 2. We make a frame from boards or their wooden bars. It can be made equal in size to the tabletop or with a slight indentation, approximately 2–2.5 centimeters on each side of the table. Having fastened the parts of the frame with screws, use them to connect the frame to the tabletop.

Step 3. After we With We put the frame and tabletop together, half of the table is already ready. All that remains is to make his legs. If you use timber for this, drill two holes in it for furniture bolts. Moreover, they can be made either on one side, one above the other, or on two different ones for more secure fastening to the frame.

Important! Carefully check the length of the table legs; they should not differ from each other. Otherwise, the table will not stand level and wobble. If you do not want it to spoil the floor material, attach rubber “boots” to the bottom of the legs.

Then make similar holes in the table frame and fasten the legs and frame with bolts and nuts. The legs can also be secured from above using screws, but over time this fastening may become loose.

If you want to make table legs from boards, fold two boards in an “L” shape on the outer or inner corner of the frame and secure them with the same furniture bolts or screws.

To prevent the legs from becoming loose, connect the folded boards together in the lower and middle parts using screws or nails.

That's all, simple and reliable, made by yourself, ready!

Advice: Before you start, do simple drawing, preferably from several sides. Constantly check the dimensions of the parts. Some parts of the same size can be cut out at the same time if you secure the boards or beams with clamps.

Pallet table

Wooden pallets widely used in shops and warehouses as pallets for cargo.

If you wish, you can get a few pieces for free and use them as a basis for making an original and unusual kitchen table.

If at least on one side the surface of the pallet is solid, then you no longer need to make a tabletop, it is ready.

You just need to process it and, if desired, round the corners.

Note! Since the pallets were originally intended for warehouses, no one sands and cleans them. Therefore, before making a table out of them, carefully sand them and remove all burrs. Irregularities and defects in the boards can be hidden using putty.

Stages of work

Step 1. Most pallets are open and there is quite a lot of space between the boards. distance, due to which the surface of the pallet can be used as table top not very convenient. There are two ways to solve this problem: either make boards appropriate size and secure with their screws between the pallet boards, or install a sheet on top plywood or chipboard.

Step 2. As for ordinary table, table legs from pallets can be made from timber or boards. The best thing fasten them with quite thick and strong pallet timber using nails, screws or furniture bolts.

To prevent the legs from becoming loose, connect them together with crossbars.

The one that is most memorable is the poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free space for legs, which has too little room. To help you design a table that will be remembered only for its attractive appearance, we will provide basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the legs. Minimum distance– 60 cm.

KNEEL ROOM. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for your knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal distance is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed towards the table. Minimum – 15 cm.

ELBOW ROOM. Side space on the table for each person sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each person seated. Less than 30 cm will not be enough, and more than 45 cm will be too much.

SPACE FOR A CHAIR. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away when getting up from the table. Architects claim that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table as the one pictured here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original ones. In the simplest version, the table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and tsar belt form a strong, yet open, support structure. In a structural sense, many tables are tsar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called by their functional purpose or location: dining table, kitchen table, bedside table, desk. As you look further through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this “basic” table. This type of table can usually be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness creates the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the reasonable dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of a table with a tsar belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, turned, tapered or carved. Even the drawers can influence the appearance of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same turned legs as the base table looks completely different. The square tsar belt with the round lid gives it this distinct look. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the Queen Anne style, the massive drawers make it a work desk. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room for the occupant.

Country style table

This table is called by different names - country style table, retro style table, bar table - and presented in different ways. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive base with turned legs and legs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawstring belt and legs. Legs, especially those as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the legs can increase the service life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th-18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. Surviving examples of such tables actually have massive legs - although they are heavily worn out by many feet. The table shown here is equipped with one middle leg instead of two longitudinal ones, to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is simple. The drawbars and legs are cut into the legs with spikes and reinforced with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “at the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our “original” table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the frame-to-leg joints. On a country-style table, you can also change the legs - depending on the appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer and drawer

The name “table with a tsar belt” refers not to the style, but to the design. This type of table is the base for kitchen tables, library tables, desks, etc. Even a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table as the tools that go into using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, while in others you need the largest one possible. There are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a box into the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut out a drawer opening in the drawer frame. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Tenon joints provide rigidity. A design with two bars - supraglottic and subgular - is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you need to be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer.

An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low legs that diverge to the sides. Here, drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have plenty of knee and hip room, its "creepy" legs tend to get in the way of the sitter's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more and you risk knocking over the table by leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks that taper downwards, and the racks are connected to the tabletop brackets with double tenons into the lugs. These intermediate assemblies are in turn glued onto a square core lath to form a central support that flares upward.

The pedestal table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased resistance to tilting. Although the support area may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Place a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been significantly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the trestle consists of a fairly wide stand, embedded at the bottom into the leg, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists swaying from side to side. There is a long, massive rod embedded in the racks. The tabletop is attached with screws to the trestles, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is enough space for your feet under the tabletop, you should not forget about the footrest so that when sitting at the table you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude beyond the trestle by 35–45 cm to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common methods of fastening parts collapsible table are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the trestle posts and legs is the easiest way to change the appearance of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses were similar to sawhorses, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found around picnic tables. Today the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful legs with “high rise”

The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to accommodate guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special runners. The runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each table cover must be at least 60 cm – optimal location per person sitting.

Design options

The design of an extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and tabletops has virtually no effect on general design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with sliding option work as usual. As the extension range increases, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And don’t forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching drawers to the table top

Extendable table on one support

A table with a single support is a basic form of table that has some advantages over a table with a tsar belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. Such a table can easily have a sliding, folding, or hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the lid is divided into two and its halves are connected by special sliding runners. Thus, these two lid panels can be pulled apart and an additional board inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the support area must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is attached to a corresponding cover panel. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small expansion, say 30–40 cm, is acceptable, then extendable table It can also be done on a non-split support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is a system with sliding sections. It is easy to make and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawer and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapered runners, are laid on the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the drawers. The existing central board separating the side sections is secured with screws to the frames. The table cover is placed on top of the central board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops that prevent the section from being pulled out too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won’t have to search through closets and closets for them when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You simply pull out a section or two – even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with retractable sections is compatible with any type of table support, provided that drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-legged table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with shapes other than rectilinear. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look quite strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section located under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the drawers.

Double-support table with extensions
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the “main” lid; this section is connected to the lid using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is not difficult. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during high humidity ridges may jam in grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. When unfolded, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the tabletop, which creates sufficient space for people to sit under the table. The Y-shape of the legs will provide sufficient space for the legs of those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look strange with a small tabletop overhang. Good options Such applications include a side table (as a base table), a side table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding tops are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However, the sliding mechanism will work here too.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the tabletop are connected to each other by hinges. It is a common species and has been present throughout American history. In any style of furniture, from William and Mary style to modern, you will find a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered into a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and slide out the support brackets from underneath it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, a table with swivel legs, a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by retractable or swivel/hinge arms. Make the folding boards relatively narrow - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections, see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. Incidentally, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which applies to a relatively long, utilitarian table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as “suffering,” creates in the conscious mind a picture of a large table laid out,” laden with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a clapper table or a folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion and shape. The table top (tabletop) may have folding boards of a round or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Book table is the Russian name for a table with rotating frame supports, which are hinged to the frame-leg-leg assembly. The support post is connected to the rotating post by an upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel support became the predecessor of the swivel leg. There's a lot in it structural elements, reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, tables were usually very narrow and saved significant space. A large table with two swivel legs on each folding board can be made so that the legs swivel both towards each other and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the supporting posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support posts will be positioned side by side, creating the appearance of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex turned profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book-table is the ability to support very large additional sections. Reliable support under the folding board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. When unfolded, it has a huge tabletop

This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg sets it apart from others of its kind. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lighter appearance. It is the size rather than the assembly of the swivel leg that characterizes this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called a "breakfast table" and was used both for actual breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs to provide better support for the tip boards. A hinge joint—essentially a wooden hinge—makes a swivel leg feasible. A fancier version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a rotating table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as the “basic” one, the swivel leg was used in tables different styles. The profile of the leg will generally be an indicator of style. Chippendale style swing leg tables often have cabriole designs, but always with a claw-and-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite style tables had tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables had turned, often embossed, legs.

The unfolded folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel support over a table with a swivel leg is the stability created by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with swing legs also has this advantage over a table with swing legs, but also has one advantage over a table with frame swing legs. Like the swing leg table, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are pulled out through the cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the folding board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can support very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to the additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and placed against the wall, the additional leg is not noticeable. By unfolding the gaming table and extending the additional leg, you will have support at each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Retractable legs will also be a great addition for long table with folding boards. If you make two extendable legs for each board, the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its appearance to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was made with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down it is a table. With the lid raised there is a seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more advanced in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has an under-seat drawer for more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is attached with a dovetail mortise.

Let's look at practical tips that make it easier to assemble a table with your own hands and help you achieve best results. The construction of a country house is divided into several stages. A serious step is the arrangement of the dacha. Furniture plays an important role in the comfort zone. Wooden table complements general interior and improves the functionality of the room. But buying one may not always be successful, so we suggest considering a homemade option. It can be placed outdoors or in the house. Such furniture plays an important role in the arrangement.

As building materials we use either pallets or wooden boards. An unforgettable requirement for the material is the absence of moisture. With sufficient funds and desire, new boards will be very effective in construction. The quality and long service life of any furniture depends on the quality of the purchased materials for its assembly; how well they are treated before use. After successfully purchasing the necessary materials, and in this case these are wooden boards, stack them in rows and leave them to ventilate. This type The longer the materials stand and ventilate, the better they will serve in the future.

Any furniture is primarily made only from dry wood.

As mentioned above, tables are suitable for a variety of places and serve as a complementary element of furniture literally anywhere. Individual manufacturing methods are selected for each table. For example, you set out to decorate a gazebo with a wooden table. And this is quite convenient and correct, since spending time in a gazebo without a table in the summer is somehow uncomfortable. Just homemade furniture won't hurt at all. It is not necessary to glue the boards together during the work. It is enough to secure it using special fasteners. This approach greatly simplifies the manufacture of outdoor countertops. Or you can purchase them on the website https://stone-fortress.ru/. Firstly, you don't spend a lot of time assembling. Secondly, it is quite possible to replace glue with other effective means, which means financial costs will be reduced.

Pallets like wooden parts, are very distinguishable by color. Accordingly, you visually decorate the table the way you want. Pallets have side parts. They are used as a frame. However, before this, the material needs to be sanded properly. It is worth considering that all the material will not be used up. The remaining planks can serve as fastening elements of the countertop. The fastening point is in the area of ​​the board joints. To join the board you only need two self-tapping screws. For the last solid one - one.

The sides and two boards will be used to build the frame. We secure the frame parts to the end using self-tapping screws. The frame does not need to be attached with self-tapping screws, just gluing it on is enough. Since the screws are long, we drill separate holes.

Our table will soon be released. All that remains is to turn it over and start sanding. Use coarse-grit sandpaper at first, and fine-grit sandpaper later. The next step is to install the legs. To do this, you will need four boards with exactly the same size. If necessary, of course, you will have to adjust the wooden boards in order to achieve the overall positive result. In this case, grinding is also an integral part of the work. Then each leg needs to be screwed on. To do this, you will need two self-tapping screws, which are important to be positioned diagonally from each other. Installing a jumper will help ensure maximum stability. The distance between the floor and the jumpers should be at least 10 cm. When everything is fixed, we begin to drill holes for the screws. This way we will secure the material so that it does not crack.

Now you have a complete design. Naturally, it doesn’t hurt to decorate it somehow. For example, start with painting. Of course, the first time a hard pile will appear. There is no need to be afraid, it is in the order of things. We take up the sandpaper again and begin to sand the surface until it becomes smooth. This amount of work will definitely create dust. Accordingly, you will have to get rid of it. Then we take up the varnish again and cover the surface with it. You may need to sand a third time, since the varnish will not lie flat the first time. In general, it all depends on the type of wood. So it’s better not to neglect unnecessary sanding, but to provide your wooden product with beautiful view. Having completed all of the above necessary procedures, we get a beautiful wooden table made by ourselves.

We will accept the option of making it from a newer material if you do not want visible traces of nails to remain or the boards will be frightening due to their heterogeneity. The tabletop is made in a variety of shapes: rectangular, square and round. The result depends on your personal preferences.

Table made from leftover materials

Sometimes it happens that at the time of construction or the next renovation of a dacha, extra boards of various types remain. Instead of throwing them away, it is better to use this remaining material for more significant tasks. Make the same table. To do this, we select pine boards that will go on the frame (thickness 25 mm, width 50 mm). For the legs, we will leave planks 15 mm thick and 50 mm wide. As for the size of the frame, everything is purely at your personal discretion. This table is well suited for the veranda. And since this room is not large, it is advised to make it narrow (60 cm width, 140 cm length, height 80 cm). Of course, if family members are not tall, it is quite acceptable to play with the size of the tabletop.

Next you need to assemble the frame and secure the boards that act as legs. It is necessary to cut two boards 140 cm long. The width parameters are 60 cm. You need to subtract twice the thickness of the used board - 5 cm. That is, the used bars should be 55 cm. Now fold the frame by twisting the screws. How the bars were folded, everything needs to be double-checked. The diagonal arrangement of the bars is worthy of attention. If something doesn’t add up, you should definitely pass it on, since the design of the tabletop itself will suffer in the future.

Cut four boards and secure them inside the frame (80 cm long). Use four screws for each board. The bottom shelf can become a complementary element to the tabletop. To equip it, attach a crossbar in the middle of the two legs. It will serve as a frame for the future shelf. The work is done in a similar way with other pairs of legs. In addition to the fact that the shelf will provide more convenience, two jumpers significantly increase the level of rigidity of the structure as a whole. The fastening of the jumpers should be done strictly at a right angle (check with a special square).

Now the frame is ready, all that remains is to check it. If the structure is made correctly, the frame does not wobble. All that remains is to polish it. Next comes the assembly work. You may have some boards left different colors. Why not put them to good use. For example, arrange the boards on the surface in such a way that they alternate in color.

The last stage of making the tabletop involves fastening the boards with nails. We secure the shelf from below with nails or self-tapping screws. Again, you need to polish the assembled product. And finally all that remains is to paint. But it happens that you made a mistake with the choice of varnish or paint. So what should we do then? If you want to change the appearance, you will have to re-sand the surface. Next you need to start painting again with a new color.

Table with glued surface

The difference between the previous options is that the legs of this design go in the letter “L”. They are assembled from boards of the same width and thickness (20 mm thickness). Since the volume of the legs here is larger than the previous ones, more screws will be required (5 pieces). You need to drill holes with a diameter of 1-2 mm in advance (the hole should be smaller than the diameter of the screw itself). The second time you need to drill a hole with a larger diameter. It is intended for the screw head, which is then covered with a furniture plug. In other cases, it is preferable to choose a furniture-colored rod.

Another great idea is furniture putty. Add wood dust to the mixture you will use to putty (take the leftover sanding). When the putty dries, traces of holes will be difficult to find.

Working on the legs

When assembling the legs, you need to carefully ensure that the angle is 90 degrees. If there is no pattern, use ordinary timber. To join two boards, coat one and the other with wood glue. Install the screws in the required places. When the glue dries, coat each leg with varnish. But before that, don’t forget to sand it.

Assembling the tabletop

As the legs are done, the turn goes to the top of the table. The tabletop is made of boards of equal thickness. Choose the sizes you want. Boards can be of different widths. It is important to maintain an organic appearance. It is important that the side parts of the boards align smoothly with each other without gaps. We also lubricate the side of the boards with glue. Next, lay them flat on the surface.

To avoid possible gaps, tighten the boards with clamps. Leave the table surface overnight. After a day has passed, remove the clamps - the tabletop is already ready. As before, sand the surface and smooth out the edges. Using a jigsaw or saw, start trimming. Sometimes a grinder is also used, but in this way it is difficult to ensure an even line. And now the sanding stages are over, and you get a completely flat tabletop with a diligent appearance.

Glued board table top

Using the above method, make a round, oval or any other shaped tabletop. Of course, you can achieve evenness of the cut tabletop if you draw in advance the lines along which its shape is cut out. Frames can give an attractive look and make them look better with my own hands. Take a thin strip and sand it. Fasten according to the perimeter of the tabletop. Finishing nails and glue are suitable for fastening (first of all, you need to treat the planks with glue). The glue will dry, and the plank will need to be sanded at the joints.

There is no table without legs

The tabletop is ready, which means it remains to put the table on its feet. To attach the legs to the main part of the table, you will need a frame made of boards. It is attached to the back with glue. But this is not enough, because you need to secure it from above using confirmations. First, you need to drill holes on the tabletop with a diameter for the hat. And then mask them off like you did the previous holes. Now the table frame is firmly secured, begin attaching the legs. The connection point must be inside the frame. For fastening we use ordinary self-tapping screws. The table is ready!

Table and benches in the garden

When making tables and benches, boards of different sizes can be used. To connect the benches to the table, 16 cm studs are used (in addition to them, washers and nuts). Other connecting fasteners - no longer than 80 mm. So, each part of the garden table is installed in its right place. Then through holes are drilled with a drill. And then, as you yourself already understood, it’s time for the washers and nuts.

When tightening nuts with washers, it is better to use wrench. Thanks to this approach winter period you can easily unwind the structure and take it to a warehouse, garage, shed or any other place for storing similar things.

Each board should be carefully sanded and trimmed. To fasten the three boards that are intended for seats, you need to cut short bars. We cut each of them at 45 degrees. The first step is to start assembling exactly that part of the structure that is located below. We take one large board (160 cm in size) and attach small bars to it. At the moment of joining, they should be fastened in the middle of one large one. Now we add legs to this structure (fasten with nails). Add short boards again. All these elements need to be tightened with studs, bolts and nuts. This creates a support unit that secures the seat from below.

All that remains is to attach the boards for the seats. By the way, if this design is intended for the street, it is not at all necessary to create a narrow gap between the boards. At least 5 mm is sufficient. The planks are attached to sawn supports. We have formed two shops. It wouldn’t hurt to secure them with four 160 cm long boards. To secure all four legs, use 2 pins for each leg. Install them either at the same level or diagonally.

Table for kindergarten

The principle of assembling the table is completely different from previous options. The tabletop is supported on boards that are cut at 52 degrees on the sides. The sawn supports must be positioned in such a way that the legs for the table can fit between them. Secure them with finishing nails. If you do not want to allow the caps to be clearly visible, drive them deeper. Simply coat the surface with a special lubricant as a mask.

The table legs here are not standard, but look like crosspieces. To assemble them, take two boards and cross them in such a way that at the bottom the gap between the objects is 65 cm. In the middle of the boards, leave a mark for crossing the boards. The mark is drawn in the shape of a square and half the thickness of the board itself. The same thing needs to be done on the other board. We get two materials of the same plane. The joining process takes place using four nails. The second pair of legs is made by analogy.

Now we have to assemble the table as a whole. First of all, the most important thing is to secure two pairs of legs into the main structure on which the benches are placed. We place the legs parallel to each other in the middle. Naturally, they need to be secured with pins so that they do not fly off in the future. The tabletop is attached using a similar method. Once the studs are screwed in, start sanding and painting. Paint the structure in any color that suits you. In addition to this design, those options that involve a separate table from the benches are also acceptable. The structure is assembled in a similar way. Of course, except for the seats.

Making a wooden table with your own hands, as it turned out, is not so difficult. There are moments that require utmost attention to some things during manufacture. If you follow the above recommendations, your table will turn out perfect. The choice of good materials and competent execution of the work will ensure the product for a long time services. The design will impress with its functionality and decent appearance.

Video: DIY wooden table

Photo gallery: DIY table

A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.

For example, find a suitable finished model table for a kitchen that is extremely small in size does not always work. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show one’s creative abilities in a summer cottage, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo in a suburban area. If you have it on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, you must prepare appropriate tools, which will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use regular, traditional hand tools, which carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

1. A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
2. Chisels for selecting various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriver Set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.

Rating of jigsaws

• A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, you can use it to decorate a table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Anyone can make a table like this

Necessary materials

For such a country house, which has a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too many wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:

1. Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Wood glue.
4. Board size:

• 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
• 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
• 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
• 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, the top is carefully sanded with a sanding machine. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.

Frame or “box” of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.

The elements can be connected in different ways:

Connection with "quarter" selection and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the simplest and reliable way;

- the insertion method is a more complex method, as it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle

- “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;

- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.

• All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
• If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

• After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

The next step is installing the legs

• The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After this, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in dacha gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.

If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
2. The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
4. In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Diagram of the table with the numbers of assembly parts marked (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

Part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Material of manufacture, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top of the cabinet.	1	600×475	Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding table top.	2	530×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
7	A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet.	2	120×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table cabinet.	2	720×520	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the cabinet.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the cabinet.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	Cabinet drawer front panel.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Drawer bottom panel.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Handles for drawers and cabinet doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80×80×18	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture door hinges.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)
Separate components of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools who are able to bring workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the tabletop. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm, from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or circular saw.
	Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve correct form semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are being made for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges may have different shapes, so they should be placed in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of ​​the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue.
	Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet.
	The cabinet elements do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a regular iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and find a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from negative influence specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried in the center façade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the drawer side by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and on the leg side by 120 mm.
	Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then do not delay self-made. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting option round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:

Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design