The main thing and obvious advantage is the ease of installation of siding; having the necessary set of tools, anyone can install siding with their own hands, even a person who does not have vocational training and experience.

Like all finishing materials, siding will expand or contract under the influence of temperature, for this reason, you should avoid tensioning the panels and do not nail them tightly onto the sheathing. Usually, a 2 or 3 mm gap is enough.

When laying panels, take care to maintain a gap of 6-9 mm for thermal expansion. When installing in frosty conditions, the gap should be approximately 12 mm.

Siding cutting can be carried out at temperatures above -10°. Otherwise, it is better to cut in a heated room.

It is better to fasten siding using galvanized short self-tapping screws that have a round head and do not have a drill. It is also possible to use tar nails. One more important point installation is that the siding should be attached exclusively in the center, and not from the edges.

At uneven walls a sheathing is required. If you perform the cladding without sheathing, then the entire curvature of the walls will be reflected on the siding. But even with perfect walls you can perform lathing - this will ensure ventilation of the facade, which will have a good effect on performance characteristics the buildings.

The sheathing for siding is made of wood or metal

Each has pros and cons. Metal lathing has a slightly higher cost, although only slightly. Wooden sheathing, must be processed using a special composition. For horizontal siding, vertical sheathing is performed, and vice versa.

If you use a special tool to install siding, the job will be done faster and better. In addition to this, you will have to work:

Siding Installation Basics

Below is a plan of work that will need to be done to cover a house with siding:

Preparatory work

The first step is to dismantle all protruding parts: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Next, you should seal all the cracks using polyurethane foam or cement mortar.

The walls should also be cleaned of all contaminants. A wooden house must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic, foam concrete walls processed using a primer.

Sheathing installation work

Since siding is not attached to the walls, sheathing must be installed. For this they use metallic profile or wooden slats. For walls made of concrete and brick, galvanized profiles are used.

You can use a CD profile for drywall. When facing frame or wooden house, you can use wooden slats 60 by 40 mm, having a residual moisture content of 15-20%. Before using the slats, they should be treated with an antiseptic. Using a tape measure and a level, make a straight line marking of the walls until a closed contour is obtained.

Now, the distance from the marking to the foundation is measured at the corners, after which another contour is drawn according to the minimum value. Next stage– installation of vertical guides. They must fit snugly against the walls; to achieve this, you can use pieces of wood or dense foam. The guides should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

In areas of additional load, for example, at corners and near windows, additional guides will be required. There should be no connections between the vertical guides. This is done to provide ventilation, which prevents the growth of fungi.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Waterproofing must be done, unlike insulation.

For this purpose, a moisture- and wind-proof membrane is used. If thermal insulation is performed, the lathing must be done in two layers.

Installation of guide elements

Installation begins with drainage. It is a rigid structure, so it is easy to attach. After that, corner profiles are attached using self-tapping screws. The next stage is fastening starting bar for drainage along the markings. Along the perimeter of the windows, window strips or J-profiles are fastened so that the location of the outer lower edge is slightly lower than the inner one.

The doorway is edged using J-profiles. When H-profiles are installed vertically in previously determined locations, use a level. Here you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the foundation to avoid bending of the planks over time. The top edge of the siding is covered with a finishing strip.

Panel installation work

After installing all the guide elements, you can begin installing the panels. The first row is fastened to the starting bar.

All other panels are fastened in the same way, up to the window or roof. The panels should not be overtightened or tightly secured; they should move a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished using a finishing strip.

The siding can be connected along its length using a special H-rail. When using it, the panels are installed in the H-rail, and you do not have to deal with the so-called “running” - i.e. make sure that the joints are not located along one vertical line.

It goes without saying that the H-rails will be visible from the outside of the building, which can negatively affect the design. This problem can be solved simply - either the H-rails are matched to the color of the siding, or the siding is installed “overlapping”. As already mentioned, this kind of finishing requires a “run-up” so that the seam line is not so noticeable. Usually, they try to direct the visible part of the joints to the side from which the house is viewed less often.

This helps improve visual perception the buildings. Do not forget that using H-rails, you lose in terms of efficiency, due to the greater number of trims. Of course, all this is relevant only when the siding strip is shorter than the length of the wall.

Do not cut the siding ahead of time. It is more convenient to trim during the installation process.

Video: do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies

Many people cannot decide how to improve the appearance of their home. For this reason, this material describes how to decorate a house using best material for performing such work as facing installation - siding. Video instructions are attached.

There is nothing difficult in the process of installing siding; you just need to watch the video and install everything exactly as described there. But before watching, it’s worth reading a step-by-step explanation of this process:

1. Surface preparation.

Insulation

Place insulation boards on the surface of the walls.

The space between the slats should not be completely filled with insulation; there should be at least minimum distance, for ventilation.

Attaching siding (installation is carried out from bottom to top!)

Determine the lower level of the siding plates.

Mark the lower level using twine or chalk.

Install the first row of planks along the marking line.

Install external or internal corners.

Install trim strips on window and door openings.

How to calculate siding for a house

You have decided to cover your house with siding, but the question arises - how to calculate the siding for a house? Yes, very simple! Since siding is a finishing material, with clear geometric dimensions and specific purpose, its quantity can be calculated up to 1 m².

To begin with, during the calculation process you will have to use the following items:

• tape measure - to take initial measurements;
• a leaf and a pencil - for sketching sketches;
• calculator - for calculations.

The amount of siding for cladding the building is calculated in stages. The first step is to calculate how many siding panels are required, and at the second stage of calculations, the required additional elements are calculated.

Before you start making calculations, you should decide on the exact value of the area to be covered. To complete these steps, you should start drawing up a schematic drawing of the building, which you will later measure.

Important point: if the building that needs to be clad has complex geometry, then in your schematic drawing, in addition to the dimensions, the placement of the panels should also be indicated.

Thus, you create the groundwork for correct use material, and reduce the likelihood of encountering unplanned waste and siding shortages.

The following formula will help you in your calculations:

Sр = Sst – So

where, Sр – design area, Sst – area of ​​walls, Sо – area of ​​windows and doors.

Now, we calculate the siding, taking into account the material that will not be used, according to the following formula:

where Sc is the siding area, and % is unused material.

The amount of waste is taken to be 7-10% in the case of cladding rectangular walls. And from 10 to 15% if trapezoidal walls are sheathed, or the walls have a large number of protrusions, recesses, etc. The more complex the configuration of the building, the greater the percentage of waste generated.

The next stage is dividing the resulting area Sc by the usable area of ​​one strip of siding. For example, a strip of siding has a total area of ​​0.89 m², then its effective area equal to approximately 0.777 m2.

By the way, the mathematical approach for calculation is most often used by sellers, due to the fact that their responsibilities include selling as much material as possible.

To avoid possible inaccuracies, it would be appropriate to draw up a plan that will accurately describe the detailed location of each strip of siding on a specific wall. If you use sketches, the calculation will be more accurate and you will get visual diagram installation

This calculation method uses the following formula:

where N – total panels, Sp – useful area of ​​one panel, H – height of the building.

Removing shutters, grilles, drainpipes and other fixtures from the surface on which the siding will be installed.

Installation of sheathing for siding. When using wooden slats, they should be impregnated with an antiseptic, since they have a moisture content of no more than 15-18%. Vertical slats are mounted at fixed intervals of 30-40 cm.

Covering a house with siding photo

In this material, you are presented with examples of how to cover a house with siding - photos of buildings, external finishing which are made using classic vinyl siding, wood siding and facade panels. If you choose finishing material for your home, here you will find a lot of information for yourself!

These instructions provide all the necessary information regarding the installation of Metal Profile siding. Before you begin, please read these instructions carefully.

ATTENTION! Required condition providing a guarantee is compliance with the rules of transportation, storage, loading, unloading and installation!

Transportation

• Siding panels must be loaded onto a flat, solid base of the body. The length of the body should not be less than the length of the packs with siding.
• During transportation, it is necessary to ensure that the products are protected from movement and mechanical damage.
• The recommended vehicle speed is up to 80 km/h. It is necessary to avoid sudden acceleration and braking.

Loading and unloading, storage

• Loading and unloading of siding should be carried out using lifting equipment with soft slings, and for bundles longer than 5 meters - using traverses.
• When manually unloading, it is necessary to involve sufficient quantity workers (at the rate of 1 person per 1.5-2 sheet length), but not less than 2 people.
• The sheets must be lifted and moved carefully in the position as in the figure, avoiding strong bends.
• It is prohibited to throw sheets or drag them.
• Storage conditions when exposed to climatic factors must comply with conditions 3 according to GOST 15150 ( unheated premises without direct exposure of the profiles to sunlight and rain).
• Packs of siding in original packaging must be laid on level ground on 50x150 mm beams with a step of 0.5 m in one row.
• When storing for more than 1 month, it is necessary to open the packaging film on each end side of the packs to ensure ventilation.

Required tools and hardware

For work you will need: a screwdriver, a set of attachments, a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, a square, metal scissors (manual or electric), a hacksaw or a circular saw with a disk for cutting metal, a drill (perforator), a hammer (mallet), a knife thermal insulation, gloves, marker, technical documentation (ATR, PPR).

Tools and Fasteners

	Self-tapping screw ∅4.2x16 galvanized with a press washer. For fastening shaped elements to the cladding, for fastening siding.
	Steel rivets. To connect elements load-bearing frame among themselves, façade products.
Plumb	Roulette	Screwdriver	Level
Square	Metal scissors	Hacksaw for metal	Circular Saw
	Drill attachment and set of replacement knives. Gives conventional drill function of electric cutting shears for cutting steel up to 0.8 mm.
	Cutting shears for metal and a set of replacement knives. For manual cutting steel up to 0.6 mm.
	During work, it is necessary to comply with the current safety and labor protection regulations.
	ATTENTION! FORBIDDEN! When using an angle grinder (grinder), the polymer and zinc coating of the siding is damaged, which can lead to accelerated corrosion.

Types of siding

Siding - decorative metal panels, intended for cladding facades and filing cornices. Production possible three types profile:

“Shipboard”, “Lbrus”, “Woodstock®”, as well as “Lbrus” soffits.
The panel is made of thin-sheet galvanized steel with polymer coating various colors, including imitation of various natural materials.

“Shipboard” siding is the classic, most popular siding profile. Thanks to its shape, it is easy to install and convenient to use. Most often used for wall cladding. Raw material: rolled galvanized steel with polymer coating.

Siding "Lbrus". The groove on the siding resembles the shape of a famous mountain, and the letter “L” stands for Light, emphasizing the advantage of steel imitation timber over its wooden counterpart in terms of weight and ease of installation. It is used as wall cladding (in a vertical or horizontal arrangement) and lining the eaves of buildings when completing roofs.

Steel siding Woodstock®-28x330, having all the advantages of steel siding, is distinguished by its original shape and attractive appearance, imitating a rounded log. Woodstock® will give your home the look of a natural log house and create a feeling of coziness and comfort. Woodstock® from Metal Profile accurately imitates the profile of log masonry and has a deep profile geometry that completely recreates the texture natural wood. The material is protected from corrosion, mechanical damage and fading in the sun by zinc and polymer coating. Woodstock® steel siding is environmentally friendly pure material. Unlike wood, it does not burn, does not rot, is not susceptible to insects, and at the same time allows you to preserve the aesthetics of a wooden structure.

Panel characteristics

Siding name	Metal thickness, mm	Length, mm	Full width, mm	Working width, mm	Profile height, mm	Weight 1m2, kg
Ship board MP SK 14x226	0.4; 0.45; 0.5	up to 6000	260	226	14	3.96; 4.24; 4.71
Lbeam 15x240	0.4; 0.5	up to 6000	264	240	15	5.19; 5.69
Woodstock ® 28x330	0.45; 0.5; 0.7	up to 6000	356	330	28	4.13; 4.59; 6.42

Additional elements

External compound angle plank PUNS-75x75x3000 PUNSW-75x75x3000		External corner plank PUN-30x30x3000 PUN-50x50x3000 PUN-75x75x3000
Internal compound angle plank PUVS-75x3000 PUVSW-75x3000		Internal corner plank PUV-30x30x3000 PUV-50x50x3000 PUV-75x75x3000
Complex docking bar PSTS-75x3000 PTSSW-75x3000		Docking strip PST-50x2000 PST-60x3000
The finishing plank is difficult CZS-30x25x3000		Final plank PZ-65x3000
Initial siding plank PNS-10x20x3000		Universal docking strip PSU-50x18x3000 PSUW-50x30x3000
Initial siding plank PNW-12x15x3000		Z-shaped plank PZ-32x15x3000 PZ-30x23x3000

Preparation for installation

Substructure elements

Reinforced mounting brackets KKU-90 (120, 150, 180, 230) with washer and insulating gasket, t=1.2 and 2.0 mm	Mounting brackets KK-50 (90, 120, 150, 180 and 230), with washer and insulating gasket, t=1.2 and 2.0 mm	Bracket extension enhanced UK-150, t=1.2 mm
Mounting profile L-shaped CNG-40x40x3000, t=0.9 and 1.2 mm	Mounting profile L-shaped CNG-60x44x3000, t=0.9 and 1.2 mm	Mounting profile L-shaped wide KPGSh-60x81x3000,

Substructure materials

Depending on the degree of aggressiveness environment and required service life, substructure elements can be supplied in three options:

• Galvanized steel (Zinc);
• Galvanized steel with powder painting (Galvanized, with software);
• Corrosion-resistant steel (Stainless steel).

Substructure

The substructure is a wall-mounted system steel frame for attaching siding or other facing material. The substructure consists of mounting brackets KK (KKU) with a console overhang from 50 to 230 mm, bracket extensions (used only with extended mounting brackets KKU), L-shaped guide profiles. Ventilated facade systems are also equipped with various types, thermal insulation and films.

Most often, lightweight substructures are used to install siding panels.

Installation

Installation of metal substructure

Before installation begins, it is necessary to clean the surface from elements not connected with the base (peeled plaster, paint, etc.), as well as dismantle the elements drainage system, antennas, signs, etc.

Next, the axes are marked according to the project and the beacons are installed. Brackets with isolon (paronite) gasket are attached to existing wall through the washer with facade anchors with a pitch of 800 mm in height and a pitch of 700 mm in the width of the building. The distance from the edge of the wall is at least 100 mm.

The length of the mounting brackets is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. If the thickness of the insulation exceeds 230 mm, reinforced fastening brackets (KKU) should be used together with a bracket extension (UK), which allows increasing the overhang of the substructure to 350 mm.

After installing the mounting brackets, insulation can be used. Installation of insulation is carried out from the bottom up. In this case, the insulation must rest on the base or other surface to avoid slipping. The insulation boards are laid tightly to each other, preventing voids and deformation. When laying insulation in two layers, the joints of the plates should not coincide. Thermal insulation boards are attached to the base plastic dowels disc type with spacer rods (5-7 pcs. per m2). When working with insulation, you must use protective gloves and a respirator.

A hydro-windproof membrane with an overlap of 150 mm is installed on top of the insulation.

The L-shaped profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the siding panels. For horizontal installation – vertically.

The design of the brackets allows for leveling (straightening) of the sheathing plane up to 30 mm to create flat surface under the siding. If this is not enough, then it is necessary to install brackets of a different length or a bracket extension.

To remove condensation from the insulation in the system, it is necessary to provide a ventilated gap of at least 40 mm.

Installation of additional elements

Additional elements are decorative elements, used for facing walls with siding, at joints, corners, slopes, etc. Additional elements are divided into complex and simple.

Complex strips are installed before installation begins wall panels, therefore, the joints of the siding panels must be determined and marked in advance, taking into account dimensions panels. After fixing all the complex planks, the siding panels are installed.

Installation takes place by inserting the siding panel into the groove in the lock of the previous panel. It is necessary to insert the panel all the way into the corner or joining strip, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between the siding and the edges of the strips (to compensate for the temperature gap); we place the opposite end behind the strip. We fix the panel with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws to the L-shaped mounting profile.

For normal operation of the system ventilation façade It is necessary to leave gaps (40 mm) between the surface of the insulation (hydro-windproof membrane) and the internal structure of the cladding, as well as: at the base, under and above the windows, under the roof eaves.

Installation of simple shaped (additional) elements is carried out after installation of wall panels.

Installation of “Shipboard” siding

Installation of “Shipboard” siding begins from the bottom up. The initial bar (PNS-10x20x3000) is leveled in a horizontal position and secured to the fastening L-shaped profiles with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws. It is recommended to first install the base drip, if required.

For ease of installation, the edge of the siding lock must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees with metal scissors on both sides.

The first strip of “Shipboard” siding is inserted under the lower part of the initial strip, providing a locking grip, top part siding is attached to the guides with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws in perforated holes.

Subsequent rows of siding are hooked onto each other and secured with 4.2x16 screws to the profiles. The self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with some clearance to compensate for temperature deformations. Using a level, check the horizontal installation of the siding slats.

If it is necessary to screw a self-tapping screw into the edge of the hole in order to get into the subsystem strip, then it is recommended to increase the length of the hole. A gap of 1 mm should be left between the screw head and the panel. If the top siding panel larger size required by the project, it must be trimmed to the required size. Install the Z-shaped strip and secure the last siding panel with rivets.

After installing the siding panels, the last row with perforations, the junctions with the roof, and the joints of the window and door opening are closed.

Installation of siding Lbrus

Installation of Lbrus siding is carried out from top to bottom, from left to right. This is due to the geometry of the lock, since when installed from the bottom up, precipitation may enter the siding lock, which can lead to negative consequences.

Installation begins with the installation of the PZS-30x25x3000 strip. The first row of siding is inserted into the strip and fixed with 4.2x16 self-tapping screws to the substructure: the self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with some clearance to compensate for temperature deformations.

Subsequent rows of siding are inserted into each other and fastened in the same way. Using a level, you can check the horizontal installation of the siding panels. If the last panel of siding is larger than the size required for the project, it must be trimmed to the required size, install a Z-bar and rivet the last panel of siding.

Installation of Woodstock ® siding

Woodstock ® siding accurately reproduces the relief of log masonry and has a deep profile geometry that completely recreates the pattern of natural wood.

The Woodstock ® siding lock creates a barrier for water, thereby preventing it from penetrating inside and freezing, damaging the integrity of the structure.

This lock makes it possible to install Woodstock ® siding both from the bottom up and from the top down.

When installing siding panels from bottom to top. The perforation area for securing the panels (lock) must be on top. The number of panels is calculated according to the height of the facade, based on the useful width of the siding panel - 330 mm. If the number of panels is not whole, you need to cut the remaining (topmost) panel to the required size, install a Z-shaped strip and secure the last siding strip with rivets.

Top-down installation option.

The first row of siding is hooked onto the starting strip PNW-12x15x3000. The bottom of the panel is fastened with self-tapping screws to the substructure: the self-tapping screw is placed in the center of the perforation hole with a gap to compensate for temperature deformations.

Subsequent rows of siding interlock with each other and are fastened in the same way. Using a level, you can check the horizontal installation of the siding panels.

If the last panel of siding is larger than the size required for the project, it must be trimmed to the required size, install a Z-bar and rivet the last panel of siding.

In cases where there are any external objects in the wall, such as: drainpipes, electrical wiring - you need to cut a hole 6-10 mm larger than the device itself.

Installation of window and door frames

Adjusting siding around windows.

Framing windows and doorways can serve as: a shaped product or a complex external corner strip; in some cases, external corner strips can be used, which are installed already on top of the mounted siding. A window sill is usually installed on the windowsill.

When installing door and window frames, you must first install the top parts, then the side ones.

Completion of installation.

The final touch is framing the top edge of the cladding. Depending on the situation, it can be done: with a window sill, a fastening strip or an internal corner.

All these elements are fastened with self-tapping screws. Step 300 mm.

Materials for self-finishing There are many facades. However, covering a house with siding with your own hands stands out among them due to its low cost and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl for such cladding of their cottage. façade panels, the installation technology of which we will consider in detail in this article.

Components and start of work

To properly cover a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of the complaints about self-stuffed PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-compliance with the banal rules of its installation.

There are several types of vinyl siding planks:

Types of components

Initial – starting rail, the first lowest element;

The main panel is the basic segment of siding covering a house;

Finish – the topmost stripe;

Connecting (docking) – H-profile for joining short panels;

Hinged - ebb protecting the windows and base of the house from precipitation;

Near-window (wide J-profile) - platband for decorating slopes;

Corner (external and internal) – for covering the ends of siding panels at corner joints;

Soffit – ceiling panel for sewing cornices and gables of houses;

J-trim – narrow universal J-profile.

The variety of plank shapes only simplifies independent cladding. There is a set element for every corner and ledge of the house; you just need to correctly calculate the required number.

Calculation of material for cladding and necessary tools

For calculation Supplies you need to calculate the area of ​​the facade covered with siding, and then divide it by the square footage of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sizes of windows and doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a 10% margin for adjustment so that everything can be finished without problems or restrictions.

To decorate a house with siding you will need the following set of tools:

Level and plumb;

Ladder;

• Screwdriver;

• Scissors and hacksaw for metal.

If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the sheathing. Will not interfere with siding self-cladding at home and grinder. It will make cutting the panels easier and faster.

Insulation and waterproofing of the house

Before you start covering the house, you need to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. Under the siding old paint and the plaster will not be visible, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be attached to it under the sheathing.

The insulation is placed between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the finishing material in question for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.

DIY siding installation

To attach vinyl panels to the sheathing, you can take:

Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5–4 mm

Nails with a stem section of 3 mm and a head from 8 mm

Their consumption when finishing a house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the strips of 30 cm. Fasteners in wooden slats or the metal profile of the frame must fit at least 20 mm. In this case, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and the PVC lining. If this is not done, the vinyl siding of the house will warp and ripple when the outside temperature changes.

Assembling sheathing for cladding a house with siding

The sheathing is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the slats (profiles) of 30–40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl planks. But by definition there should be no crossbars between them. You need to cover the house with siding with your own hands so that there is space under the panels for natural circulation air.

To ensure reliable fastening of the PVC cladding, additional support rails are installed around the openings and along the corners of the building. They are also needed in places where lamps and drains are hung on walls. It is necessary to securely fasten not only the facade panels for the exterior decoration of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.

House sheathing

Installing the starting bar

The first to be fixed to the walls is the starting bar. To do this, a rope is pulled level around the house on nails at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the mounted sheathing. The starting profiles are attached around the perimeter of the building not end-to-end, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of thermal expansion.

Installation of low tide and starting bar. Low tides are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the ebb strip.

When covering houses with siding, it is extremely important to fix the starting strip correctly and evenly. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. Clarity depends on it geometric lines and the general appearance of the siding trim of a private house.

Setting internal and external corners

Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the joints of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting strip already attached to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the top hole for fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.

External and internal corners are installed so that the lower edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and the upper part is 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice

Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The remaining screws are screwed down the bar in 30 cm increments in the middle of the holes and not all the way. This is the only way the PVC cladding of the house can “breathe” and not deform.

The corner elements are built up with an overlap. At the bottom of the top bar, the inner side edges are trimmed by 25 mm. It is inserted into the bottom corner by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of strips on door and window openings

The next stage is covering the house openings for windows and doors with platband. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you will have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles you will have to make cuts in the sides with a bend of the cut part of the panel, and in the lower ones you will have to make an angled cut at 45 degrees.

Trimming the window profile

Vertical strips are cut at an angle at the top, and cut out at the bottom with a similar bend on the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to cover the house beautifully with siding, but to join the platbands so that water cannot seep into the joints anywhere.

Installing the main panels

With basic planks everything is much simpler. The first of them just needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed to the sheathing. The rest will follow one after another. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate your house with siding with your own hands in literally a day.

If there is not enough siding length, we join several planks through an H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and secure the connecting H-profile in advance. The distances below and above are the same as for the outer or inner corner

Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with the finishing profile or molding

Don’t forget to make “hooks” at the top of the panel

The finishing strip is attached to the upper edge of the wind board using “hooks” similar to the molding.

Soffits are installed between the molding and the J-bevel

The planks should be fastened from the middle to the edges, placing the screws exactly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The finishing touch to the vinyl cladding of houses is the installation of the finishing panel with the insertion of the topmost main PVC strip into it.

What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding

The technology of work is such that house cladding can be done all year round. But when sub-zero temperature The siding should be taken outside in advance to allow the material to acclimatize.

If the house is old, then there are problems with the cladding vinyl panels should not arise. But the new building must be allowed to settle completely, otherwise the façade decor will necessarily be deformed. No amount of clearance will help in this situation.

Numerous photos of houses covered with siding are pleasing to the eye. To self-installation everything turned out no worse, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.

Table of temperature gaps

When installing vinyl siding, consider the air temperature according to the table below. For example, if you carry out installation at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the main strip 3.6 m long can lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.

Installing siding is a fairly simple matter. The material was developed with the goal of not only providing beautiful and reliable cladding, but also making the installation process as easy as possible, as well as guaranteeing the correct joining of the material.

However, in practice, there are always moments that the lamella manufacturer is unable to take into account.

Installation difficulties

It would seem that the developers of the material have provided everything to ensure that the lining is reliable.

• The slats are fastened to each other in a special way: such a connection turns out to be much more resistant to gusts of wind, pressure and other mechanical stress.
• At the same time, snapping ensures correct installation: it will not be possible to fasten the lamella at an angle or unevenly. It would seem that in this case there is no need for such a tool as a notch punch for siding.
• To design corners, window and door openings, and join lamellas along the length, there are special prefabricated elements, whose size and shape make it possible to easily and tightly fasten horizontal elements into vertical ones. And finally, special parts have been developed for easy start and finish of installation - the starting and finishing strip.

All this functions perfectly, but only in cases where the dimensions of the facade turn out to be a multiple of the dimensions of the lamellas. And this happens rarely. Much more often, the finishing or window strip has to be cut with your own hands, since its width turns out to be excessive. And they are trimmed at the expense of the part where the mounting holes are located.

As a result, the builder receives an element of suitable length, but not suitable for snap-on joining, since the necessary notches are missing. To form them, you need a notch punch for snapping siding panels, for example, model SL5.

How the tool works

By appearance it resembles ordinary pliers, but unlike the latter it forms U-shaped holes. The tool is suitable for both vinyl and aluminum slats.

The excess part of the plank is cut off circular saw or a grinder - this option is more suitable for siding than metal scissors. Then, at the site, they make a punch required quantity notches. It is necessary to ensure that the number of holes and the distance between them coincide with the slots on the factory material. The photo shows the SL5 model.

How to replace the punch during installation?

Installing siding without a punch is quite possible. Professional devices rarely end up in your hands home handyman, since they are quite expensive, they are designed for long-term continuous operation, and all this is simply not necessary for someone who is cladding the facade of just his building.

So there are quite a lot of ways to do without a tool. What to replace it with during installation?

Use scraps of regular steel pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. The end of the pipe is flattened on an anvil in order to obtain a narrow oval hole. Its edges are sanded down to give them the desired sharpness. This DIY siding punch works quite well with vinyl slats.

The bar is placed on a hard surface, preferably on a work table, the end of the flattened pipe is installed vertically and pressed into the surface of the lamellas with a hammer. The edges cut through the material, and the output is the required slot. This process is much less pleasant than using a special tool, however, the cost of a self-made cutter is much lower. Despite the somewhat atypical shape of the holes, they cope with their role - they ensure snapping of the lamellas.

In the video, a DIY notch punch for siding demonstrates its functionality.

Vinyl siding is a simple enough material that you can work with it yourself. We provide step-by-step illustrated instructions for self-installation.

Siding is installed either directly on the walls of the house or on pre-installed sheathing. If lathing is planned, then installing it yourself will also be the first stage of siding installation.

Siding installation

The entire installation process with your own hands or by workers can be divided into the following installation stages:

We mark and attach the starting J-profiles

When installing siding yourself, especially for the first time, it is better to invest as much time in starting profiles as needed.

Using a building level, determine the lowest point on the lathing, make an indent 5 cm up from it and make a mark on the lathing with a shallowly screwed screw (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1: Starting profiles must be installed strictly horizontally

As you move around the house, continue to mark with screws at the corners of the house where the starting J-profiles are attached - until you return to the first mark.

If everything is measured accurately, the start and finish points will coincide!

Pull the cords onto the screw-marks screwed into the corners (Fig. 1).

Mark the boundaries of the location of the corner profiles on the laths - attach the profile itself to the corner of the sheathing and mark the edges with a pencil (Fig. 2).

Moving along the cord, leave a horizontal space of 6 mm from the border of the corner profiles, attach the J-profiles to the slats.

Do not forget about the technological gap of 10-12 mm between the profiles so that they do not touch during temperature changes.

There should also be a gap between the profiles and nail strips (Fig. 3).

If desired, instead of a 6 mm indentation, you can trim the nail strips with metal scissors so that they do not rest against the starting profile during temperature changes (Fig. 4).

Very important: when working with your own hands, pay maximum attention to ensure that the starting profiles are installed strictly horizontal!

A filled level during DIY installation will result in a number of siding panels also being skewed. Correcting this situation will be very difficult and may result in a violation of installation technology.

It is better to spend any amount of time observing horizontal level profiles - the time spent will pay off!

Installation of external corner profiles

Before installation external corners, install or mark the soffits so you can see where their edges will go.

Attach the profile to the corner of the sheathing so that the distance to the roof or soffit is 3 mm and secure it by installing a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole on both sides.

The corner profile will be suspended with a distance of 3 mm from the soffit; the lower edge of the profile should be positioned 6 mm below the starting profile (Fig. 5).

Check the verticality a couple of times and, if everything is in order, secure the bottom, and then the rest of the fasteners. We recommend not placing fasteners too often in the corner profile.

2 potential issues with DIY installation:

• The height of the house exceeds 3 meters - the profile is shorter
• What if the house has protruding parts (like a basement or porch)?

If you need a length greater than 3 meters: the profiles will have to be overlapped; to do this, cut the top profile so that there is a 9 mm gap between the fastening strips of the joining profiles, and the overlap of the profiles is 25 mm (Fig. 6).

Important: the joints of the profiles are made at the same level on all sides of the facade!

If the base protrudes: everything is simple - the profile needs to be shortened so that it does not reach the 6 mm base.

2 J-profiles (starting profiles) can be used instead of a special corner one - this will help save money when installing it yourself. The disadvantage of this solution is that the corner will be less sealed from precipitation - it is better to glue the surface of the wall behind this corner with a strip roll waterproofing(Fig. 7).

Installation of internal corner profiles

On internal corners the profiles are mounted in the same way as on external ones - leave a 3 mm gap to the soffit at the top, and make the lower end 6 mm below the strata profile.

A 6 mm indentation must remain before the protruding element below, if there is one (for example, a protruding plinth).

In the case of a protruding element at the bottom, the internal corner profile should not rest against it - there should be a gap of 6 mm.

There are 3 options for making internal corners:

If the wall is higher than 3 m, the profiles on the internal corners are spliced ​​absolutely identical to the external ones - this is very easy to do with your own hands.

A space of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips (excess vinyl is removed using metal scissors), the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fasteners are placed every 40 mm, in the center of the mounting holes, fasteners in the very top point is placed in the upper part of the mounting hole.

Installation of opening frames

When installing siding with your own hands, the framing of openings, as a rule, raises the most questions. Let's consider 2 installation options:

• Openings are in the same plane with the walls or protrude from the walls
• The openings are in the niches of the walls

If window or door openings are in the same plane with a facade, starting J-profiles or platbands are attached to them.

You must first waterproof the openings!

You will need 2 horizontal and 2 vertical trims per opening. To calculate the size of the platband, take the length of the side of the opening and increase it by twice the height of the platband - this additional distance will be required so that the platbands are beautifully and imperceptibly connected at the junction points.

The profiles (platbands) are connected as follows (Fig. 9):

• Make bridge cuts on the top profile on both sides (which are equal to its height)
• Bend these bridges down - precipitation and moisture should flow along them from the upper profile to the lower one
• Remove any pieces of vinyl on the side profiles that interfere with the connection to the top
• Connect the top and side profiles (the bent bridges will be inside the profiles)

The lower casing is connected in the same way, only the bridges are cut and bent not on the lower, but on the side profiles in order to put them on the lower profile.

If the facade and the framed opening are in the same plane, then the cut pieces of vinyl are folded inside the lower profile or simply removed.

If the framed opening, on the contrary, is recessed, then when installing the near-window profile with your own hands, adhere to the same principles as with the platband - cuts are made in the profile equal to depth opening niches that are folded and inserted into the finishing profiles (Fig. 10-12).

In order not to get confused when installing siding with your own hands, it is important to understand the meaning of bending such tabs - they should always cover the joint of the profiles, so that moisture flows through them and didn't get inside. This logic will help evaluate the correctness of the connection.

Installation of the first panel

When installing siding with your own hands, installing the first panel requires maximum attention, just like installing the starting profile.

We recommend that you start installing siding (especially with your own hands) from the least visible side of the house - in order to get the hang of it and work out possible mistakes.

The panel is inserted into the lock of the starting strip and into the corner profile - it is necessary to leave 6 mm of space to the bottom of the lock of the corner profile, in case the dimensions of the panel change (Fig. 13). After this, attach the panel to the sheathing without tension.

Technological indentations must be strictly observed: when installing it yourself in winter, the panel (solid) can increase in size by 18 mm (maximum value).

Under the influence of the sun, the panel will also change its size, and then winter time will jump out of the lock of the adjacent profile if too much space has been left for thermal expansion.

• In summer – 6 mm
• In winter – 9 mm

Extension of panels

The panels are built up either with an H-profile or with an overlap.

When installing overlapping siding panels with your own hands, trim the fastening frames and panel locks so that the overlap length is 25 mm (as is the case with profiles) (Fig. 14).

Attach the H-profile in the same way as external and internal corner profiles– at the top the distance from the soffit is 3 mm, and at the bottom lower it 6 mm below the starting profile. In case of protruding obstacles on the façade, leave a 6 mm gap to the obstacle so that the H-profile does not touch it (Fig. 15).

The H-profile is built up with an overlap, according to the same principles as internal-external corner profiles.

Installation of other panels

When installing siding yourself, check the siding surface for horizontalness on every third row of panels.

When you reach the mark of the opening, on the panel that falls on the opening, calculate and remove the unnecessary part of the vinyl - you need to cut off the width of the opening from the panel, increased by twice the technological indentation of 6 mm.

By removing excess sections of vinyl from the ends of the panel, you will ensure a minimum vertical technological gap of 1-2 mm, and the cut ends of the panel will be able to move in the lock of the near-window profile if necessary (Fig. 16).

In order for the panels to be securely fastened, “hooks” are needed - you will need a special punch (punch).

IN bottom trim An additional finishing profile is inserted into the opening to level the siding in the plane, since the depth of trimming the panels depends on the height of the opening on the facade and can vary.

Rice. 17: Installing the finishing siding panel on the wall

Further steps when installing siding yourself:

1. Measure the distances in different places between the lock of the penultimate siding panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile
2. Subtract a technological indent of 1-2 mm from this value
3. Mark the entire siding panel, remove the top part with the lock
4. Make “hooks” and bend them to front side, on the top of the panel (step 20 cm)
5. Insert the trimmed panel into the penultimate panel and snap it into the lock of the finishing profile upwards

Installation of the pediment

Sheathe the perimeter of the pediment, placing the fasteners as follows: the top fastener at the top of the fastening hole, the rest in the center. Both J-profiles and internal corner profiles can be used.

Installing the panels yourself is identical to the walls. The edges of the panels are trimmed and inserted into the locks of the receiving profiles. Don't forget to make a technological indent here too.

The amount of space between the siding and the bottom of the lock (gutter):

• 6 mm – in summer
• 9 mm in winter

The final (last) gable panel is attached directly through the vinyl - this is absolutely the only place where it is possible to attach siding in this way.

The only time you can attach a siding panel directly through the vinyl is the last panel