When starting to renovate a house, you need to immediately solve a number of problems: think through the design, calculate the estimate, select materials. The same questions arise during renovation of the toilet.

If previously it was almost universally used for wall decoration tile then today construction market offers everything more cladding options. And one of the most in demand today is plastic.

How to finish a toilet with plastic panels, restroom design, the pros and cons of such coverage - we will consider all this in this article.

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What are PVC panels

PVC panels They are a hollow structure made of two layers of plastic connected by stiffening ribs. There are locks on the sides that are firmly connected to each other, remaining invisible in the finished finish. The result is perfectly flat surface.

Because the range of applications plastic sheathing is wide enough, there are many design options:

• Standard options lengths: 2.7 m, 3 m and 5.95 m. Thanks to this choice, you can finish large rooms without unnecessary joints.
• Width varies from 0.1 to 0.5 m. In this case, elements with the smallest width are produced as imitation wooden lining, so they have emphasized joints. How greater material width, the less noticeable the seams.
• Thickness. The thicker the slab, the stronger it is considered. Therefore, for a ceiling where special strength is not needed, a sheet with a thickness of 5 to 8 mm is sufficient. For walls, slabs with a thickness of up to 10 mm and a large number of stiffeners are used. This allows you to maintain the integrity of the finish if someone leans on it or accidentally hits it.

In addition to the difference in dimensions, plastic materials for the toilet there are many decorative solutions.

Advantages of PVC panels for wall decoration

On the one hand, special requirements for there is no wall cladding in the toilet, since there is no high humidity, such as in the bathroom, or there is no frequent contamination, as in the kitchen. Therefore the question arises: “ What to cover the toilet with?“After all, in this case it is not necessary to use expensive tiles. Plastic – suitable option, satisfying all practical and aesthetic requirements.

Advantages of PVC panels:

1. Variety of design solutions. Modern plastic is not limited to one modest coating; on the contrary, many colors and patterns, imitation of various textures will help create an unusual design.
2. Hygiene. Plastic does not absorb dirt and odors, it is easy to clean, and there is no need to use aggressive cleaning agents.
3. Economical. The price, even taking into account the necessary components, is lower than the cost of tiles.
4. Easy to install. To decorate walls with materials with your own hands, you do not need to have much experience in construction industry or a special expensive tool.

Important! Choosing wall materials for a toilet, you need to understand that plastic also has disadvantages, such as flammability or susceptibility to mechanical damage. However, basic caution will protect you from unpleasant consequences in the form of damaged cladding.

How to choose PVC panels

Since PVC panels- a product that is in demand and popular, some manufacturers, in an effort to make money, release low-quality products to the market. Therefore, you should approach the choice of finishing material responsibly so as not to become a victim of scammers. Otherwise, bathroom renovation with PVC panels will turn out to be an unpleasant surprise.

Simple tips will help you choose quality materials:

Materials and tools required for installation

For high-quality and fruitful work before finishing the walls, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools in advance. A preliminary list of materials might look like this:

• Plastic panels for a bathroom based on required quantity with a reserve;
• Auxiliary and fastening materials: corners, baseboards, guides;
• Basis for lathing– wooden beam or metal profile;
• Wood processing composition, primer for walls;
• Fasteners: dowels, screws, staples;
• Glue for installation of plastic corners;
• Film or fabric for protection plumbing from pollution;
• Hammer, drill, construction stapler;
• Hammer;
• Pencil, tape measure, building level.

You always need to purchase materials with a small margin– up to 10-15%. If during work any part of the material is damaged, or it turns out that there was an error in the initial calculations, they will become good insurance. Moreover, if not taking care of a sufficient supply, may not be found similar material in the shop.

Installation procedure

So that the results of labor last time to please the owner, facing the toilet with plastic panels should begin with preparatory work. The first thing you need to do is remove the residue. old decoration and paints. For this you will need spatula and small hammer.

Preparing the walls

Walls treated with a special primer with antiseptic properties. This will protect against the occurrence of fungus and mold in the future. Now you need to wait until the primer dries: about one hour.

Creating a wireframe

Next is made frame installation. If a wooden beam is chosen for the sheathing, it must be pre-treated with impregnation to protect it from moisture and rot. This step will extend the deadline cladding service for a long time.

It is advisable to do processing for fresh air , and bring the material into the house only after completely dry composition.

To create a sheathing, base bars are installed to the wall around the perimeter of the room: slightly above the floor and under the ceiling.

For strong fastening, the rail is applied to the surface and drilled. Wherein resulting hole should go 5-6 cm into the wall. Next, dowels are driven into it. There should be a distance of 30 to 50 cm between them.

Once installed upper and lower level of slats, the distance between them is measured, and another row of sheathing is attached exactly in the center. The same should be done with the remaining sections until there is a distance of up to 50 cm between the slats.

According to the same principle the frame is produced when finishing the ceiling with plastic materials.

Important! Knowing the expansion capabilities of wood, when installing the sheathing, you need to leave small gaps on the sides, i.e. the length of the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the length of the wall.

Installation

Before as install PVC plates, a guide profile is attached to the ceiling and corners of the room. Installation is carried out to wooden blocks using a construction stapler. Important Special attention Pay attention to the installation of the first panel: it must be adjusted strictly according to level. The rest of the finishing fragments will be oriented specifically towards it. The comb of the first, and each subsequent one, the plates are fixed with brackets on a wooden slate.

The final stage

When toilet wall decoration plastic panels are completed, the stage of surface decoration begins. For this purpose they are used outer corners, since they are the most convenient in installation plan.

To fix the corner, you need to cover it with a layer of special glue for plastic, and press it tightly to the junction of the panels. The action must be fast and confident, since the setting time good glue is only a few seconds.

Skirting boards are attached similarly near the floor and ceiling. Excess glue can be easily wiped off with a soft cloth.

Lighting issue It’s worth thinking about in advance, because for installation spotlights, lathing for plastic panels must be mounted 15 cm below the ceiling.

Color solutions

Now, knowing how to sheathe a toilet DIY plastic panels, you can start developing a design and choosing a color scheme.

Thanks to variety of decorative solutions in an assortment of plastic panels, create original design in the toilet room will not be difficult. Therefore, when choosing materials, you need to focus on the design solution and your own taste preferences.

A universal solution monochromatic materials are considered that will fit into any interior and become a suitable background for other items.

In addition, one must take into account room dimensions– for a small room it is better to choose light shades, and for spacious room Rich and dark colors are suitable.

For more originality and expressiveness You can choose panels with a pattern. The most popular are geometric patterns, abstractions, and floral motifs.

Nautical themed decor(shells, sandy beaches and paintings underwater world) suitable for finishing a combined bathroom.

The design looks impressive and expensive imitation of natural texture: wood, marble, stone. But when choosing such decor, it is important to ensure that the quality of the design is at the highest level. high level, otherwise the overall perception of the interior may be spoiled.

Plastic panels are becoming increasingly popular due to the combination of their positive qualities, which suits most consumers. This includes aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, easy cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finishing is especially suitable for places that require compliance with strict sanitary standards, such as the bathroom and toilet. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Finishing the toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are undertaking renovations, but are faced with budget limitations. There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material belongs to a generally accessible price category, its installation can be done on your own. Absence of necessity additional costs inviting craftsmen is also an important advantage of plastic panels over other types of finishing.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material uses in great demand, it is available for sale in a wide variety. At the same time, the assortment of stores may contain both high-quality products and products from not particularly conscientious manufacturers. Just looking at plastic panels with the naked eye, it is quite difficult to determine their quality, so when choosing this material it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will correspond to the declared characteristics and service life.

• The material used for the manufacture of finishing panels must contain additives that improve the elasticity of the products. Thanks to them, the panels bend relatively easily and are quite difficult to accidentally damage by careless movement. If the plastic is fragile and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are low-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during use.

— Try pressing on the edge of the panel with two fingers. Internal stiffeners should not bend or deform, and visible dents on the surface are unacceptable.

A high-quality panel, when compressed with your fingers, should not be dented, and the internal stiffeners should not be deformed

— You should try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in high-quality panels this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a mark along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

— It is necessary to inspect the outer plane of the panel very carefully. Through upper layer The plastic should not be visible or the internal stiffeners should protrude, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

• Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to discard such panels immediately. Surely the manufacturer, in order to minimize the cost of production, used low-quality raw materials or violated installed technology production. During operation, such finishing will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of the residents of the apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be classified as low-quality products.
• PVC panels are produced in various widths. For a small toilet room, it is not profitable to purchase panels that are too wide, as a lot of waste will remain. However, a lot depends on the specific dimensions of the panels themselves, the toilet, and the need for installation decorative box to hide communications from other specific conditions. If the owner has spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

• When choosing finishing material It is recommended without any hesitation to request from the seller a certificate indicating the manufacturer and indicating the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards. If the staff point of sale cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, thereby the right decision will contact another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before the installation itself, you will need to take measurements and purchase the necessary materials, prepare necessary tools, perform some measures to treat wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to take measurements of the room. The goal is to determine the area of ​​surfaces to be finished and the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for the design of internal and external corners;

— for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and floor;

- for installation of cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if this is intended in the finishing plan.

Selecting these profile elements will depend on design idea, the size of the room, as well as the technique of installing panels in certain areas.

It is recommended to purchase 15% more of the finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, than the area measurements showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or an incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

• You will need material for installing the sheathing. Since the toilet usually has small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of slats can be easily calculated locally, based on the height and width of the walls, keeping in mind that the guide battens should be positioned in increments of 500÷600 mm. In addition, the sheathing elements for the decorative box hiding the pipes (if it is planned), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there too), are calculated separately.

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall 50÷60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide battens will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

• To secure the plastic panels to the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long (depending on the type of sheathing - wood or metal). When installing panels according to wooden slats A construction stapler with 10÷12 mm staples is often used.
• In the case where the walls are perfectly smooth (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without lathing at all. In such conditions, panels can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as “liquid nails” or even one of the tile adhesives is used.
• If used wooden sheathing, then it would be useful to purchase a means for pre-treatment of structural parts, which will protect them from rotting.
• You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces, reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests appearing in closed space between the main wall (ceiling) and the finishing material.

Tools for installation work

To carry out preparatory and finishing works You will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

• with a set of bits.
• A hammer drill or electric drill with a perforation function.
• Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
• Electric or manual jigsaw.
• Metal scissors, if a metal profile will be used in the design.
• Hammer.
• Construction (stationery) knife.
• Tape measure and construction square.
• Pencil and marker for marking.
• Construction stapler.
• Building level with vertical and horizontal indicator.
• To prepare wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying primer.

When everything necessary for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

Preparing the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

• To prevent the creation of a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold stains under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, it is recommended (if any) to remove peeling paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from wallpaper, and they are securely fixed to the surface, then it is recommended to apply it to them using a roller. warm water, and this needs to be done several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin removing it.

• It is not necessary to completely remove the paint; the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off from the wall surface.
• Next, the cleaned walls are marked and at the same time the number and height or length of the sheathing slats are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the timber under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. When horizontal installation finishing material, the frame guides are fixed to the wall vertically. Be sure to install the sheathing parts at the bottom of the wall, 20–30 mm from the floor and along the top of the wall along the line of fastening the sheathing under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

• If the sheathing will be mounted from wood, then the next step is to prepare the frame slats. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces need to be processed, including the end sides, that is, the cuts. After applying the composition, they must be left until completely dry. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is access to air, and the space is slightly larger than the area of ​​the toilet.

• While the wooden frame elements are drying on the balcony, you can begin antiseptic treatment of the walls and ceiling of the toilet. Priming is done using a roller with a fluffy attachment or a wide brush. IN hard to reach places A narrower brush may be required.

The primer is absorbed and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition and wait for them to dry completely to guarantee.

Primer prices

primer

• The primer can be transparent or opaque. If a thick white composition is chosen, then marking the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
• If during the renovation it is planned to replace the toilet, then it is more advisable to dismantle the old one before fixing the sheathing.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fastening the sheathing, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is always to attach the guides to flat sections of the walls, and only after that the vertical and horizontal frames around areas where utility lines pass, as well as protruding corners. In slats (beams), at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other, using electric drill and wood drills, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Next, the timber with the holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through the hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a concrete drill is used to mark the location of the attachment. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After this, the beam is placed back against the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the beam can be leveled.
	Next, the timber is leveled to the building level and the remaining points of attachment to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are driven into them. In a similar way, all load-bearing elements of the sheathing are fixed on flat sections of the wall.
	If, when marking, distortions are found on the surface of the wall, then the sheathing is leveled using additional pads installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms there is a window in the upper part of the wall for natural light. If you do not plan to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the framing parts (platbands) are removed from it, and frame guides can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration clearly shows how guide battens should be secured to the smooth walls of this small room.
	Probably, in order not to disrupt the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and installation of the floor ceramic tiles. So, after fixing the sheathing elements, the old covering is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a hammer drill with a specific attachment in the form of a chisel. Along with the tiles, the mortar on which it was laid is also removed. After cleaning the floor construction waste, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible from various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next stage is the construction of a sheathing for a decorative box around a vertically extending sewer riser, as well as running along the back wall of the toilet sewer pipe. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short lengths of timber, joined at right angles, and fixed to straight sections of sheathing walls.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be constructed from a metal profile. Installed vertical racks and are rigidly fastened together by horizontal jumpers. The design is derived from the shape of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	The jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to a beam fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from a vertical beam, which is fastened together by horizontal jumpers and connected to the sheathing fixed to the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to attach finishing material to wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are installed in them. The horizontal sheathing is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and, if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another option for the design of a box made of a metal profile and timber. In this case, the timber is a material that imparts rigidity to the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. You can cut it and construct a more compact box from it by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections at angles other than straight are required.
	The illustration shows what this version of a box frame looks like without finishing with decorative panels. This design is well suited for cladding in which a corner fitting will not be used - the panel will smoothly bend horizontally installed elements metal sheathing.
	Horizontal box-shaped frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, it is best to do it together with the entire sheathing. However, some craftsmen work according to their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been attached to the main frame.
	This frame is made of wooden beams, necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is the frame onto which the decorative trim will be attached.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture may appear due to temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden blocks, so wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and limited to horizontal and base vertical frame, you can proceed to tiling the surface. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Next, according to the markings made, the tiles are laid on tile adhesive. To maintain a uniform seam width, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying a tile covering, its surface must be constantly monitored. building level so that she stays in horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with the tile joints already grouted. The floor is finished - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before installation begins, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if there is one).
	It is more difficult to match panels with single fragments of a pattern, parts of which are located on different panels and, when joined, are assembled into a whole element. To make the decoration look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine floral or geometric patterns, as well as border lines.
	Installation of finishing on the sheathing can be carried out using fittings corner profiles or without using them. Starting guides are required in any case, since without them general form the finishing will look sloppy. Are fixed plastic profiles to the sheathing beam using staplers. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of finishing materials, and that is why some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows an option for joining two panels in the corner of the room, which fit perfectly to each other without the use of corners.
	If the decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame sheathing of the box, is first fixed with “liquid nails” and then screwed with 15÷20 mm self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	The installation of panels begins from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in the row, before its final fastening, is carefully verified to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the sheathing beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is adjusted to the level. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the remaining elements of the sheathing. The evenness and neatness of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has a completely flat surface, and the panels will be installed on it without lathing, then they can be glued using “liquid nails” or with cement-based tile adhesive.
	“Liquid” nails are applied to the wall in strips 10÷15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a ridge height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If a whole panel falls at the junction of sheathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to a previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process needs to be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting out the excess part of the panel exactly along the measured lines (without real adjustment “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the sheathing.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to “liquid nails”. Another option is to disguise it with the so-called molding external corner having special grooves. on their internal surfaces Glue is applied, and then the edges of the joining panels are inserted into the grooves.
	Pipes located on the side walls are covered with short sections of panels. Often craftsmen prefer to close them and sliding doors, which will be discussed below.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then they cannot be closed completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and if an emergency occurs, it can be eliminated without dismantling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there can be two or more of them) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free movement.
	To make it easier to move such doors, ordinary internal plastic door handles are installed in them, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	The decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be covered with plastic lining panels of the required length. To keep the trim looking neat, starter molding is glued to the bottom timber of the front frame and then stapled and stapled into place.
	The next step is to cut out the cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then “liquid” nails are applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, a flexible connection (hose) must first be installed and “packed” for cistern, and pulled through the hole in the lid.
	Next, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for lining the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single piece, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the outlet of the sewer pipe for connection to the toilet. After this, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, the window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. The protruding edge of the lock is cut off from the extreme left or right panel so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	The next step is to install the panels into the starting bottom bar and screw them to wooden elements boxes The joint between horizontal and vertical panels is covered decorative corner, which is glued to “liquid” nails. After this, the finished frame with the door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it is necessary to say about the design of a vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case there will be no need for auxiliary corners, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small section of it mounted on racks metal frame boxes
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, exact dimensions are taken from the sides of the box, that is, their width is measured. These parameters are then transferred to the back of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. 15 mm are measured from the marked points in both directions, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel along which cuts are made using a utility knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, while the front side remains intact. After this, the cut strip is completely removed along with the ribs, while back side the front panel is left with 3÷4 mm of ribs. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	Once these cuts are made, the panel will easily bend along the intended lines. After attaching it to the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints or corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high-quality panels are chosen.
	One more point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, installed on top of the masking pipe of the rear box-shaped structure, then in order for the cut to be made accurately, first an exact pattern of smooth corner rotation is adjusted from paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box lid will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cutout is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling cladding with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after covering the surface of the walls with plastic panels. The lathing can be attached directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the timber attached to the walls will become the basis of the suspended ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the sheathing elements for wall cladding. It is fixed along the top line decorative finishing walls
	In a toilet room, common in city apartments, a similar design may look like the one shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to apply glue and “liquid” nails to the lower part of the beam, onto which the starting profile is glued, into which the sheathing panels will be installed. The starting profile is attached to three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of panels will begin. This can be either the back wall or the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the beam using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	Once the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin preparing and installing the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the required size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting tenon) is cut off so that the panel fits tightly, throughout its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with its ends in the side profiles, and the side with the cut tenon - in the one that is fixed to the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the sheathing bars using self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed lamps, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	In order to make holes in the ceiling lining for installing spotlights, a core drill with a diameter corresponding to the size of their legs is used. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the lamps in the sockets cut out in the panels, the power cables are connected to them.
	Lighting fixtures are installed in holes plastic trim, and then assembled into a single chain. Connection to the power supply should be made only after complete installation of all finishing.
	The problem is always installing the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own method of installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it slightly wider than the remaining distance - 10÷15 mm. Then, a starting profile is put on the edge, which will be fixed to the frame beam. Liquid nails glue is applied to the timber. After this, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and its ends into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to a strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to the general electrical system of the apartment. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if there is not enough experience in electrical work, it is best to entrust it to an experienced specialist.
	If we are talking about a toilet, then a few words need to be said about installing and attaching the toilet to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed close to back wall or to a box mounted along it. In addition, during preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe is opposite the toilet outlet pipe.
	Next, use a marker to mark the exact location of the toilet on the tile, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step is to temporarily remove the toilet to the side, and drill holes according to the marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60÷70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes in the floor. The toilet is being installed. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at this same stage it is necessary to immediately connect the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramics from the metal. If you do not install gaskets, the toilet leg may crack when tightening the screws.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the mounting screws, as this will create tension in the material, and it may eventually crack or even chip. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fastening elements are closed with special masking caps, which are usually included in the kit supplied by the manufacturer to the toilet.
	After fixing and connecting the toilet to the sewer pipe, assembling the flush cistern and connecting the flexible supply line from the water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is not an easy task

In the table above short description installation of the toilet was given only to demonstrate the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, everything can be somewhat more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication on our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the optimal solution

This article also spoke only briefly about the ceiling. This is because detailed information about it is posted in another portal article specifically devoted to this issue.

For those who have carefully read this publication, we hope it has become clear that finishing the toilet plastic lining– it’s not that difficult, so it’s quite possible to do it on your own, saving some money. The main thing is to take your time and always adhere to the folk wisdom “measure twice, cut once.” As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, visually beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment

When choosing cladding for the walls and ceiling of a toilet, one must be guided by considerations not only of aesthetics, but also of hygiene: ideally, the coating should be smooth and easy to clean. Accordingly, moisture resistance is also required.

Today, in addition to expensive ceramic tiles, only PVC plastic panels for the toilet satisfy these requirements.

As for the ceiling, here they are generally the only truly acceptable cladding option. Let's see how the toilet is finished with plastic panels ( PVC plastic) and how to choose the right material.

Cladding with plastic panels can be done in two ways:

1. The material is glued to the wall and ceiling like ceramic tiles. In this case, the room almost does not lose volume, but you can resort to this method only when ideal flat surfaces. Tile adhesive or “liquid nails” are used.
2. The panels are attached to the frame. A method in demand for uneven walls. The cladding will turn out to be perfectly smooth without labor-intensive “wet” processes - plastering, putty, etc. But the volume of the room will decrease more than in the first option.

The toilet is paneled

We will consider the option with a frame - as it is more complex.

Preparation for finishing work

So, there is no need to level the walls and ceiling. However, you still have to do some work in advance. Let's look at them all in order.

Taking measurements

First of all, you need to find out what and how much you need to purchase to complete the cladding. Let's go through the list:

PVC panels

The amount of base material is determined quite simply: the area of ​​the walls and ceiling to be finished is calculated, after which a margin of 15% is added to the result obtained. It is necessary to provide a reserve: when trimming, some of the panels will go to waste, some of them may be damaged.

Ready-made repairs with plastic panels

It would seem that if something happened, the missing elements could be purchased in addition, but there is one thing: parts from another batch will most likely have a slightly different shade in comparison with those already purchased. Therefore, everything needs to be purchased at one time in a known sufficient quantity.

Profiles

This additional elements, with the help of which the corners and edges of the finish are formed. There are several varieties:

1. Starting bar: frames the finish in the place where it adjoins the surface without finishing, and forms an internal angle with it.
2. Ceiling plinth: This is the same starting bar, only with a more interesting shape. Used to frame ceiling cladding.
3. F-profile: frames the edge of the finish in the place where it adjoins the uncoated surface, and forms an outer corner with it.
4. Corner: It can be external, internal and universal. This detail forms the junction of two lined surfaces.
5. H-shaped profile: used for extending the length of short panels.

Accessories for plastic panels

In general, the total length of the ceiling plinth is equal to the perimeter of the toilet ceiling. You will need an internal corner; the total length is equal to the height of the room multiplied by 4. Other details must be selected according to the situation.

Frame details

The frame for mounting plastic panels is assembled both from profiles specially designed for them, and from profiles for mounting plasterboard structures. In the first case, the profiles can be structural elements, to which the plastic panels are snapped - then they will not need to be screwed in with self-tapping screws.

When assembling the frame, two types of elements are used:

1. Guide profile (U-shaped): It is screwed around the perimeter of the surface to be finished and is used for fastening fittings (starting strip or corner) and intermediate frame profiles.
2. Rack profile (C-shaped): It is used to make the very intermediate elements that are installed at equal intervals over the entire surface and to which the plastic panels will be screwed.

The required number of rack profiles is taken on the basis that they will be attached in increments of 50 - 60 cm.

Suspensions

Used for ceiling cladding. The hangers are screwed to the ceiling, after which intermediate frame profiles are attached to them. It is impossible to screw the profiles directly to the ceiling - there will be no space behind the cladding to install built-in lamps.

Suspensions are installed along each intermediate profile in increments of 45 - 50 cm.

Dowels and screws

• Dowels. With their help, hangers and frame profiles are screwed to permanent structures. We calculate the quantity based on the installation step of 40 - 50 cm.
• Self-tapping screws 15 - 20 mm long. With their help, the panels are screwed to the frame. The optimal pitch is indicated by the panel manufacturer.

Selection of material for construction

First of all, you need to know that plastic panels are divided into two types:

1. Wall: they are characterized by increased strength and cost accordingly.
2. Ceiling: they are less durable, since it is almost impossible to damage the lining on the ceiling through negligence. They are cheaper than wall ones.

The panels also differ in size. In a small room, narrow panels called slats or plastic lining should be used. If you do the opposite and use large parts, the toilet will seem very small and cramped.

The toilet walls are lined with PVC

Those who pay special attention to design will probably find it interesting option with the installation of special decorative inserts between the panels.

An important issue is the quality of the panels. Here's what you need to pay attention to:

1. Stiffening ribs inside the product should be located as often as possible.
2. The front side must be absolutely smooth. If you can see stiffening ribs underneath, you are looking at a low-quality material.
3. The thicker the plastic, the better. Please note: we are not talking about the thickness of the panel as a whole, but specifically about the thickness of all its components - the outer sheets and internal ribs. To check, you need to squeeze the panel with two fingers. If the ribs are bent and dents remain on the surface, it is better to refuse to purchase this brand.
4. Plastic should not be brittle, for which special additives are added to it. Manufacturers of cheap types strive to save money on such an additive. Fold the strip to the edge of the panel, which is used to snap the adjacent piece in place. If there is a dent in the bend area, and even more so if the plastic is cracked, it is clearly of poor quality.
5. Immediately discard material from strong odor. It indicates that the plastic gases, that is, it emits volatile substances that negatively affect health.
6. The appearance of the panels must be impeccable: the color is uniform, the pattern is clearly printed.

If you have any doubts, do not hesitate to request to see the certificate.

Required Tools

In addition to the finishing material for work, you need to prepare the following:

• plumb line;
• level: it is advisable to have both bubble and water;
• hammer drill or impact drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• metal scissors;
• roulette;
• roller and brush;
• a spool of nylon thread;

Have a marker or pencil.

Preparing the surface for finishing

The purpose of this stage is to prevent the development of mold and mildew on surfaces hidden under the cladding.

Here's what to do:

1. Previous finishes that may pose a potential hazard are removed. This concept refers to any wallpaper, areas of painted surfaces on which the paint has peeled off. If the wallpaper is still holding tightly, it needs to be soaked warm water(this is convenient to do with a roller), after which it will be quite easy to remove them.
2. Next, an antiseptic primer is applied to the surface with a roller.

Carrying out the cladding

How to sheathe (finish) a toilet with plastic panels?

The finishing is installed as follows:

1. First, the frame is installed. To cover the ceiling, a guide profile is screwed onto the walls along the entire perimeter, departing the required distance from the ceiling. These elements must be in the same horizontal plane, so markings for them must be applied using a water level.
2. Next, nylon threads are pulled between the guide profiles to indicate the horizontal plane, and then, guided by them, intermediate profiles are installed on hangers.
3. When finishing a wall, you first need to use nylon threads to mark a vertical plane, for which you use a plumb line. Next, sections of the rack profile are screwed to the wall so that their edges lie in the designated plane. In places where the wall surface has deflections, pads must be installed under the profile.
4. Next they attach to the frame starting bars(when facing walls) or ceiling skirting boards(for the ceiling).
5. Having freed the first plastic panel from protective film and having been cut to length, one side is brought under the starting profile and screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
6. The remaining panels are installed in the same way. Lamps must be installed and checked during installation, so that later if the lighting system does not work, you do not have to disassemble the ceiling.
7. The last panel is also cut in width, after which the starting profile is put on one side of it. The length of the panel must be cut so that it can be inserted with its ends into the starting profiles without bending. Next, the guide profile is lubricated with “liquid nails” glue, the last panel is installed in place, snapped to the previous one, and the starting profile put on it is glued to the guide profile of the frame.

An example of decorating a toilet with plastic panels with your own hands

Before cutting each panel to the required length, you should check the actual size between the profiles in the location where it will be installed.

Video on the topic

When it comes to choosing a material for renovating a toilet, many people wonder how to decorate it: tiles, wallpaper or plastic.

Let's consider the last option - decorating the toilet with PVC panels yourself.

There are many reasons for choosing this material. It is highly permeable and easy to clean. Low cost makes it accessible to a wide range of consumers.

In addition, plastic can be used even with uneven walls and ceilings. It is easy to install and install, and is also characterized by good wear resistance and practicality in operation.

Despite all the advantages, this material has its disadvantages; you should familiarize yourself with them before making a purchasing decision. When ignited, plastic can release toxic substances, despite all the manufacturers' assurances about fire resistance.

Despite the fact that the cladding process itself is quite simple, the quality of the work done depends on many points, from the choice of material to the carrying out of all the main work.

They reduce the space by about 3 centimeters and this must be taken into account when installing plumbing fixtures, doors, and if the room does not have significant dimensions.

Selection of finishing products and fasteners

Before choosing panels based on pattern, color and aesthetic perception, you need to pay attention to their rigidity, design and size.

Rigidity or strength is important because the walls will most likely be loaded with loads in the form of shelves and various accessories. Ask the seller to show more durable models; the higher the rigidity, the better.

Now let’s talk about how long and wide the panels should be. The average width of plastic panels is 12-25 centimeters. For a beginner with no masonry experience, it is recommended to take products about 14-15 centimeters wide. The length is always standard and equal to 3 meters.

For this type of material, endings and plastic corners. You cannot save on this purchase, since fasteners complete the overall look of the repair. It's better to take extra.

On average, plastic trim lasts about 10 years, so choose panels to your liking, but better neutral colors, with patterns you like, because you won’t be using the room for a year.

The next important purchase is slats. It is recommended to buy slats with a square cross-section, this will provide additional strength to the frame. The slats should be straight, compare the entire stack you are going to buy. If you don’t have self-tapping screws, screws and nails like tar paper at home, you’ll have to purchase them.

Surface and sheathing preparation

This is the second stage from which you begin finishing the toilet with PVC panels yourself. Read the instructions supplied with the products; usually the manufacturer gives his recommendations for installation.

There is nothing complicated in preparing the surface: the main thing is that it is dry. If there was wallpaper in the toilet before, it needs to be removed. But if there were originally tiles, drywall or plaster on the wall, then you can sheathe over them.

If mold is present, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.

The lathing can be made of metal, plastic, wood. Which lathing is better? If there is high humidity in the room, then the wooden sheathing may not last long, but there is a way out - treat it with an antiseptic.

Plastic and metal battens are easier to work with because they are attached with clips. The slats should be perpendicular to the panels. The distance of the structural elements can be about 30 centimeters, but if necessary, you can safely increase it to 1.5 meters.

For any unevenness on the wall, it would be correct to place a wooden, plywood, or plastic spacer under the slats to secure it. You can insert insulation into the frame.

Panel installation work

The frame is mounted from one of the corners. The first guide is installed here, vertically. This important point, in which no mistakes should be made, otherwise in the future everything will look crooked.

Next, plastic strips are attached to each other’s grooves. Check that the elements of the pattern match completely and that the edges are even.

Important points you need to know when decorating a toilet with PVC panels yourself

It will be better to cut plastic with a hacksaw, a special cutter or a stationery knife.

Before renovations begin, the room must have a floor tiled and a toilet installed.

If the slats are treated with an antiseptic a day or two before starting work, then the entire slatted base will serve for a very long time, it will not be afraid of moisture, fungus and rotting.

After completion of the work, it will be necessary to install toilet accessories and shelves. You need to think about this in advance: plastic does not hold objects larger than one kg well. Where they are expected to be located necessary elements, it is necessary to strengthen the frame sheathing.

Such, it would seem, simple work, as installation of panels cannot be rushed. Until there is reliable fastening, the material can quickly deform under significant mechanical stress.
After completion of the repair, the surface should be treated with an antistatic agent and cleaned of dirt and dust.

That's all the advice on finishing plastic panels in the toilet. In conclusion, I would like to note that when the right approach There is nothing complicated in the installation process.

Step-by-step video on how to cladding a bathroom with plastic:

This cladding option is an inexpensive alternative to tiles, but is in no way inferior to it in both decorative and performance characteristics.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Not everyone can install tiles in the bathroom themselves. home handyman. This is why many people prefer to resort to more simple way improve this room - make it with plastic panels. The main advantage of the designs of this type– assembly according to the design principle, which allows you to easily and without loss disassemble the panels if necessary. Design features This type of finish allows oxygen to circulate freely, which is fundamentally important in conditions of high humidity.

Advantages of choosing PVC panels

• Low price, which varies depending on the quality of the material and the prestige of its manufacturer, but generally remains affordable.
• If the installation work is not carried out independently, then you will have to pay much less for the services of a specialist than for laying ceramic tiles or, for example, natural stone.
• Resistant to humidity fluctuations. Plastic is not afraid of drops of water, temperature changes, mold, fungi. Even if the material is used in unheated room, there will be no deformation or loss of brightness of colors.
• Reliable manufacturers guarantee that their products will retain all their properties for a quarter of a century.
• Easy to use and maintain. Plastic panels can be easily washed from dirt using a soap solution.

The plastic finish also has several disadvantages:

• Installing plastic panels will still steal some space from the toilet, which does not happen when painting or wallpapering.
• Vinyl does not burn easily, but if it starts to melt, it emits acrid, toxic smoke.
• By choosing plastic trim from unscrupulous sellers, you can purchase a low-quality product that will be very fragile and brittle.

In the video you can see the results of repairs in the toilet when finishing it with PVC panels:

Examples of DIY toilet repairs using plastic panels are shown in the photo below.

Cost of repairing a toilet using plastic panels

If you have not decided what is better - to renovate the bathroom yourself or order a turnkey toilet repair service, keep in mind that in Moscow such a renovation with plastic panels will cost you 11-13 thousand rubles, in St. Petersburg – 9–11 thousand rubles. In regions, prices may differ quite significantly.

Choosing panels for finishing the toilet

1. PVC is an incredibly flexible material that bends at an angle of more than 90⁰. You can check the quality of the material by taking the panel from different ends with your hands and starting to bend it. High-quality plastic will bend into a ring.
2. Take a sniff of the material you buy. Your nose should not smell anything, because high-quality plastic is devoid of any odors.
3. Narrower panels are easier to correctly level; wide ones will leave a lot of unnecessary trimmings.
4. All quality products have appropriate certificates. Their absence from the seller should make you suspicious.

Advice. When purchasing PVC panels, always take a small supply of several elements. After all, if during the installation process it turns out that your initial calculations were erroneous, it may turn out that this particular model is no longer available.

We install plastic panels in the toilet

Covering a toilet with your own hands using plastic panels is not at all a difficult task if you have the desire and a supply of free time.

Before going to the store, recalculate the area of ​​future installation, add another 15% to the resulting figure for the cuts.

Required materials and tools

Before installing plastic panels in the toilet, you need to stock up on useful equipment. You will need:

• PVC panels, as well as the edging profile for them;
• aluminum or plastic profile;
• hydraulic level;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver and drill;
• cutting tool;
• drawing tool.

Preliminary work

Before installing the plastic trim, perform the following steps:

1. We remove old finishes from the walls.
2. If possible, we replace old wiring and water pipes.
3. We treat the walls with a primer mixture.
4. If you plan to install cabinets, shelves, and accessories in the room, we install additional strips under them.
5. The material must be brought into the apartment several hours before the start of work so that its temperature is equal to the temperature in the room.