The construction of polypropylene pipes is different availability and reasonable cost of the material, which, moreover, is light in weight and durable, does not rot like wood and is not susceptible to corrosion like metal.

To these indicators we can add a whole a number of features inherent in a plastic structure:

• simple installation;
• the ability to be moved to another location if necessary;
• the greenhouse can be built in almost any shape and size;
• the material is not affected by high and low temperatures and high humidity;
• polypropylene is environmentally friendly to soil and plants;
• PVC pipes are different for a long time service, thanks to which a greenhouse frame made of this material will last for many years.

How to make a simple greenhouse for your dacha yourself using available materials?

Types of frames made of plastic pipes

According to the shape of the structure, the frames can be gable and arched. Each option has both positive and negative sides.

Arch frame

TO benefits This structure includes the following indicators:

• the quality of lighting is better than in other types of buildings;
• stability in strong winds, snowstorms and other atmospheric phenomena. The securely reinforced structure confidently withstands snow loads and gusts of wind;
• the ability to increase the length of the greenhouse by adding additional sections;
• ease of installation of the coating, which can be used as either film or polycarbonate. The coating can be continuous or in the form of separate fragments in the form of large sheets;
• the presence of a minimum number of seams requiring high-quality sealing.

You can build this very simple greenhouse with an arched frame with your own hands in the country house and in the garden (photo above).

Flaws:

• if it is necessary to equip a greenhouse with multi-tiered beds, it will be very difficult to install racks and shelves in it;
• difficulties with arranging a ventilation system. For high-quality ventilation of a greenhouse, it is often necessary to have side transoms in it, the installation of which entails some difficulties due to the peculiarities of the arched structure;
• limited possibilities for choosing covering material. Only soft and flexible products are suitable as a coating.

Gable frame

pros:

• during heavy rainfalls, water flows freely along the pitched roof;
• the room can easily be equipped with high-quality ventilation by installing the required number of vents, which will ensure the release of hot air accumulating under the roof;
• the ability to grow tall crops, planting them even along the side walls;
• the gable roof prevents the accumulation of snow, and when the snow cover slides down, it does not put pressure on the frame and covering.

Minuses:

• assembly gable construction represents more difficult option compared to an arched structure;
• For installation, a larger amount of building materials is required, which, accordingly, entails higher costs.

Covering material

There are many coating options available today. But to keep within the limits budget project, it is worth considering the most suitable materials for this purpose, namely - polyethylene and thin thickness cellular polycarbonate .

Film coating

Want to the simplest greenhouse with your own hands? This material is characterized by high elasticity and tensile strength.

It stretches well in width and length and has good transparency, allowing up to 80-90% of sunlight to pass through.

The film must be sufficient to withstand natural phenomena density, so it is advisable to use high-density material.

Film coating also has its own flaws:

• simple unstabilized polyethylene is subject to aging and destruction under the influence of high temperatures and ultraviolet rays;
• when the humidity in the room increases, the film becomes covered with condensation, which creates a reflective screen, as a result of which the light transmittance of the material deteriorates;
• falling drops of condensate cause damage to plants, and the wet surface of the film becomes covered with dust, which also causes a deterioration in the transparency of polyethylene.

Cellular polycarbonate up to 4 mm thick

In a greenhouse covered with 4 mm thick material, it is only possible seasonal growing of plants. The service life of the structure is limited in this case late spring and in summer. However, it is the most transparent and inexpensive polycarbonate. It is good to grow early vegetables in such a room, but it is not suitable for forcing seedlings.

Design with thin polycarbonate coating– an excellent option for those who do not plan to plant crops in the cold season.

You should not use the "four" for cover winter greenhouse, since it is not able to protect the room from the cold.

As for thinner polycarbonate (3.5-3.8 mm), it is not classified as a construction material, so it is only suitable for vertical installation.

Preparation for construction

It all starts with choosing a place for construction, which should be well lit and protected from drafts. It should be taken into account that it is better to arrange buildings in such a way that so that its ends face north and south. This will provide more quality lighting and natural heating of the room.

• type of foundation;
• type of construction (portable or stationary);
• step size between load-bearing elements.

If planned construction of a winter greenhouse, then for such a structure it is important to have a solid foundation, which will provide the structure with reliable stability during heavy snowfalls.

For temporary structure quite suitable as a foundation wooden base. Below - in more detail about each type.

Types of greenhouse foundations

Timber base. The material used for constructing such a foundation is timber with a cross section of 120x120 mm.

Before laying the timber, you should dig shallow grooves (5-10 cm) under it, into which the roofing material is laid. It will protect the wood from ground moisture.

The advantage of such a foundation is the possibility of dismantling the structure with the onset of the winter season. The disadvantage is that after a few seasons the timber will become unusable as a result of rotting.

Block foundation. It is a reinforced version that is quite suitable for non-removable winter structures. The construction of this structure includes the following steps:

A gravel cushion about 10 cm thick is laid on the leveled soil.

The laid block is leveled using a level.

All other blocks are placed in the same way.

Upon completion of installation, the joints between the blocks are sealed with mortar.

Hollow blocks, which after installation are filled with cement mortar, are quite suitable for a greenhouse foundation.

Whatever goals the owner pursues summer cottage when, whether seasonal or year-round cultivation of crops, use of PVC pipes will allow significantly reduce construction time and save money.

50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.

Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid

How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground (Shockingly simple way!!!) The method is that we place PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season) Click on the photo to enlarge

How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

A very simple greenhouse design. Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also do. The branches are tied together with a nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to create an arch different shapes. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step by step photos, to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.

DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

• 2 photos - cut out square holes with a jigsaw to 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
• 3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
• 4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
• 5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
• 7-12 photos we attach the film.
• 14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted green to blend in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when there is a need to cover some weak plants during a cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

A very interesting and simple design for automatically opening the window depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that with a minimum amount of water in it, the window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. water due atmospheric pressure moves into a small jar, opening the window

A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to a new house, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from a glass door (double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. Everything is very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

In summer, in hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! An important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof should be made folding (lifting upward), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap, all the warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: optimal inclination slope of the roof of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) – φ, where φ is the geographical latitude of the place; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables in early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and a glass cover. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and there must also be made a fixing mechanism open lid on different angles(see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its design, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, there are five crops: spinach, green onions, mache, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnip.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When sunlight enters such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up. and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the process of seedling ripening.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden gratings

The advantages of such a greenhouse:

• - quickly erected
• - stable
• - easy to manufacture

Minuses:

Not suitable for tall plants, can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuel

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are rotating flat screens painted white, which allow maximum use of solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: You can use any flat panels covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of a frame around the perimeter of the greenhouse made of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The northern side of the frame should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the trim to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls do not need to be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be closed wooden shields, facilitating approaches.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower sashes.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow manure.. Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket of hot water into each, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made 3-4, which ensured year-round use: While 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing production. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits with a clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. Soil is poured on top of the heated manure - garden or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?

A greenhouse is a special zone, the internal climate of which is not affected by any vagaries of weather or negative factors. environment. Crops growing inside the greenhouse are not afraid of cold or heat, wind, snow or hail. Thanks to the microclimate created there, plants receive everything they need in sufficient quantities.

Everything that is done by hand is much cheaper than alternative options.

Creating a greenhouse with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. The main thing is to know about the main elements of its design, general rules normal functioning and desire.

What to consider at the initial stage

First you need to choose a location and decide on the crops grown in it. Choosing a greenhouse location is extremely important stage, because in one place the soil may be too wet, and in another there will not be enough sunlight for the plants.

Choosing soil

The building must have the highest quality soil available on the site - with flat surface and moderate humidity. A hole should be dug in the marked area to check the quality of the soil. If clay appears in the recess, the place is not suitable for us. To construct a greenhouse, you need to choose soil that has a layer of sand.

If there is no suitable plantation on the site, then you can dig a pit yourself, fill its bottom with gravel and make a layer of sand. Fertilized and disinfected soil is already placed on this drainage.

Choosing a place

The place should be sunny. Most often, greenhouses are used in the spring and summer, where there is no heating system, and the greenhouse is heated by the sun's rays. You need to choose a place on the site where the sun shines all day long and the shadow of trees or nearby outbuildings does not fall on it.

Wall greenhouse

Drafts are a big enemy of greenhouses. An incorrectly or weakly installed covering will result in wind getting inside the greenhouse. But even if everything is done correctly, the wind will cool the coating, and cooling walls, as is known, absorb some of the heat in the room.

The best option for steppe regions, which are characterized by the presence of constant gusty winds, would be wall greenhouse, the structure of which is attached to any non-residential building on the south side.

Once you have decided on the location of the building and its area, it’s time to think about its configuration.

What are greenhouses?

Before making a drawing of the future greenhouse, you should decide on its configuration and appearance. Wide choose modern building materials allows you to create unimaginable masterpieces of various forms in this direction. The design can be of two types:

1. Collapsible. It is constructed if the greenhouse is planned to be used seasonally.
2. Non-separable. Built for year-round use.

According to the configuration of the greenhouse there are:

• Wall single-pitch
• Traditional
• Polygonal

Other variants of forms are mainly various combinations of these three basic forms: tent or arched greenhouses, the frame of which is based on a traditional or polygonal variety.

Design elements

In order to build a greenhouse with your own with my own hands, you need to know about it structural elements. Any greenhouse consists of three main elements, which differ in shape and materials of manufacture:

Greenhouse base

Whether you are building a temporary or permanent structure, almost any greenhouse requires a foundation. The only difference is that you don’t have to make a particularly strong base for a temporary greenhouse (some even use plastic bottles for it). For a greenhouse that is planned to be used all year round, a more solid foundation is needed. Thanks to reliable support, the structure will serve for a long time. The base of the foundation must be below the freezing level of the soil. He will tell you about the foundation for the greenhouse .

DIY greenhouse (video)

Greenhouse frame

Construction of the frame is perhaps the most difficult stage of greenhouse construction. You can purchase ready-made metal carcass, you can order a metal-plastic or aluminum glazed structure, when assembled you will get a finished greenhouse, or you can mount the frame yourself. The frame is the main part of the entire structure. When planning the shape of the frame and choosing materials for its construction, you need to take into account that the strength of the entire structure will depend on the strength of this element. For the manufacture of the frame, the following materials are most often used:

Wooden beam

A wooden frame is easy to assemble, but wood is not durable, therefore, when constructing a permanent structure, a wooden frame requires careful processing and regular maintenance during the operation of the greenhouse. But if you decide to build a greenhouse based on this material, then the information contained in the article will be useful to you.

Steel

The steel frame will be strong and wear-resistant, withstanding any load. Often, instead of a steel corner, it is used to build a greenhouse frame. If your choice falls on a steel frame, you should remember that the metal is subject to corrosion, so the material requires pre-treatment.

PVC

The degree of strength of a PVC frame directly depends on the strength and thickness of the profile used. The main advantage of polyvinyl chloride is its flexibility, which allows you to create structures of any shape that are completely sealed, allowing the owner to regulate the microclimate inside the greenhouse with his own hands.

Greenhouse covering

To protect cultivated crops from negative impact external environmental factors, care should be taken to provide a durable covering for the greenhouse being constructed. Today's construction market is overflowing with a variety of relevant products, so it will not be difficult to find a coating that best suits the given selection criteria. The most commonly used materials for covering greenhouses are:

Glass

To cover a durable greenhouse, the operation of which is planned for many years, high-strength glass is used. Many people choose tempered glass or triplex for their greenhouse. If it is not possible to use durable glass to cover the greenhouse with your own hands, you can install ordinary glass in several layers. You can protect glass from wind loads and possible exposure to precipitation, such as hail, by installing an unbreakable protective coating on top of the glass.

Glass perfectly transmits the sun's rays, and with them ultraviolet radiation.

Foam

For covering greenhouses for seasonal purposes, film is the most inexpensive and popular material.

It perfectly transmits the sun's rays, scattering them, and prevents the plants from burning. At the end of the season, the film is carefully dismantled with your own hands and, if there are no obvious flaws on it, it can be left for reuse.

Polycarbonate

This flexible high strength roll material looks aesthetically pleasing, protects crops from ultraviolet radiation, letting them through maximum amount sunlight. The material is durable and therefore resistant to precipitation and wind loads. The polycarbonate coating is designed for long-term use, its transparent color remains unchanged for many years.

Some professional advice will help you build a high-quality greenhouse on your own:

1. Construction of a permanent greenhouse begins in the fall, so the selected area should be properly prepared: use a shovel to remove the soil, removing plants from the top layer, and put it in separate place for storage until next summer. Using any sheet material, we make sides to protect the soil from weeds.
2. With collapsible frame made of pipes are easy to transport, but difficult to install. Quick assembly will be ensured only by a frame made of ready-made welded modules. The fewer connections in the greenhouse frame system, the less play and other defects that reduce the strength of the building.
3. If you are installing a polycarbonate greenhouse, there is no need to dismantle the covering for the winter. Polycarbonate is not afraid of stress. You can only remove the irrigation system and windows.
4. The reliability of fastening directly depends on the choice of fasteners, good option- a design with a frame with welded hinges that allow it to be attached both to the ground and to the foundation.
5. If the greenhouse is fixed using pipe piles, they should not be driven in completely, since the soil floats and settles over time, and the fastening may weaken.
6. The greenhouse should be equipped with transoms on both longitudinal sides for ventilation. In addition, you can install plastic partitions that eliminate cross pollination, system and automatic vents.

Knowing the structure of the greenhouse, relying on the advice of experts and following the rules for selecting a location and soil for the future greenhouse, you can easily make a greenhouse yourself and grow plants in a microclimate favorable to them.

To avoid losing the material, be sure to save it in your social network VKontakte, Odnoklassniki, Facebook, just click on the button below.

If you want to diversify your personal diet, and please your family with real natural vitamins before the next seasonal harvest appears, and if the right approach– to deliver fresh berries and vegetables to the table throughout the year, it is optimal to purchase a greenhouse or greenhouse from us, and if you have certain skills and free time, you can build a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself. How to make a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself?

Of course, before you get down to business, you should think through the various parameters and nuances of the potential process, and thoroughly understand the question of how to create a greenhouse with your own hands:

• you need to decide how much area of ​​the site can be free;
• solve the issue of the functionality of the design, that is, will the greenhouse be relevant throughout the year or will it be used only in the spring. The year-round option requires a lot of effort and materials, because you will have to additionally provide heating, lighting, water and equip high-quality ventilation;
• then the type of structure and the materials from which it will be built are determined.

In order not to make a mistake in this case, it is better to consider the variations of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Types of greenhouses and greenhouses

Now there are many modifications of greenhouses and greenhouses, moreover, based on general principle their arrangement, craftsmen create personal options, sometimes individual details for a given agricultural structure. Greenhouses are usually divided according to different criteria, for example, according to the forms and materials of release, stationarity, and also the time of construction.

Design features of greenhouses and greenhouses

The frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is usually made of boards, and the useful volume is formed thanks to a lid in the form of glazed frames; they can be opened if necessary. This solution is optimal for growing seedlings and herbs, so that all this appears on the table as early as possible.

A temporary type of greenhouse, installed only for the period from spring to summer, is considered to be a combination of a wooden frame, plastic film, and also fiberglass reinforcement. This solution will last for quite a long time if you disassemble the structure into parts in winter and store everything indoors. As a result, you will simply replace the film with a new canvas; it is not difficult and not expensive.

Some craftsmen install a greenhouse in a large old barrel, it is also used in the spring, but it is not necessary to remove it from the site in winter period, because the structure can serve as a flowerbed, or even an open garden bed.

The next solution requires forced heating, and is used immediately after the snow has melted. The structure is made of boards, metal-plastic reinforcement, covered with plastic film, and in order to look after the plants, you can go right inside.

A capital greenhouse is equipped with different necessary details, create a certain microclimate inside it, which guarantees the operation of the structure throughout the year. To do this, it is enough to make a not particularly deep foundation, then a brick base, and thoroughly insulate everything.

Such a greenhouse can even be attached to one of the walls of the living space, then it will be easier to connect the system to communications. It is convenient to care for plants throughout the year if you have access to the greenhouse from your home.

In order to save on heating in the winter season, you can install a kind of greenhouse-thermos; a pit is dug for it, the depth of which is 1.7-2 m, then everything is covered with a transparent roof. The solution is interesting, but the main thing is to take care of the ventilation system. Of course, this option is labor-intensive in its own way, but the resulting design guarantees savings in energy costs.

What should the roof shape be?

Before you make a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands, you need to determine its shape; do not forget in any case that you will also need to install a roof, and this is an effective detail in growing plants. The most popular solutions:

• gable roof, greenhouses of this type are in demand, because they are really spacious and comfortable to be in, moreover, for both plants and gardeners. With proper design, installation and choice of material, the room will be illuminated by sunlight throughout the day. Greenhouses of this type are equipped for winter gardens, planting them not so much with vegetables, but with exotic plants. Of course, this option will be realized only when the proper conditions are organized, there are reliable heating systems, lighting and irrigation;

• arched roof, this solution for an arched greenhouse is extremely easy to install when compared with its gable counterpart. The bottom line is that a form covered with polycarbonate, or, alternatively, plastic film, ideally diffuses sunlight throughout the room, so the plants will receive maximum natural heat. Another important point in this case is that due to the arched shape, no precipitation in the form of snow remains on the roof, that is, it will not be deformed or damaged due to the increased load in the winter season;

• a pitched roof is ideal for greenhouses, which have one wall adjacent to a massive building, for example, a house, or even a large stone fence, always on the south side. You can really save money on the construction of this greenhouse, because one of its sides will be finished wall, the base itself will be attached to it. In addition to all that has been said, it will be extremely easy to carry out communications into the greenhouse. When designing a greenhouse with a pitched roof, you should choose the slope of the slope correctly, this is the only way snow will not lie on the surface of the roof, because the increased load will only damage the coating.

Basic material for greenhouse covering

When making a greenhouse at home, you need to understand that for certain designs greenhouses are needed different materials, but usually they are united by one feature - the material for covering the walls, as well as the roof, must be transparent, permeable sufficient quantity Sveta.

The table below contains information about the current physical, as well as technological, and, moreover, performance indicators of the three most popular materials. Namely polycarbonate, polyethylene film, and also classic silicate glass.

Technical and operational parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Difficulty of installation and weight	Light weight, self-supporting material. It makes it possible to reduce the number of frame parts and even completely abandon the foundation	Glass - heavy material, therefore, if it is chosen for the coating, the building must have a strong frame and a reliable foundation (foundation)	A very light material that needs to be securely fastened to the frame.
Durability	The practice-proven operational period of the coating is about 20-25 years, the manufacturer provides a guarantee for 10 years of its service. Polycarbonate, due to its rigidity, is itself an element of the load-bearing structure. Once secured, it does not cause deformation or distortion.	The material is durable if protected from the mechanical effects of heavy loads (snow and hail).	The service life of the film is very short, at best - 2-3 years, since it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
Noise insulation	The material, thanks to its cellular structure, dampens wind noise well.	If the installation is poor, the wind can penetrate into the greenhouse, and the glass can make ringing or rattling noises.	Creates almost no sound insulation, and when strong wind, itself rustling in the wind.
Appearance	The aesthetic and modern appearance of the material creates a greenhouse even to a certain extent decorative element suburban area	The glass has a fairly neat appearance if installed according to all the rules.	The material looks neat only in the first year after it is fixed, then the film becomes cloudy and collapses, especially if it is left on the frame for the winter.
Safety	Polycarbonate is safe and does not break when dropped. It is 200 times stronger and at the same time 15 times lighter than fragile and quite heavy glass.	Glass shards are very dangerous if they fall into the soil, as they can cause serious injury. Therefore, for safety reasons, glass installation must be carried out in strict compliance with all safety rules.	From the point of view of causing injuries, it is completely safe.
Care	Dust is practically invisible on the surface of the material, and if it is heavily soiled, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.	Raindrops can linger on the surface of the glass, and then, when dry, they leave cloudy marks. To wash off these stains from the surface, you will have to make a lot of effort.	It is not recommended to wash the film, as cloudy stains will remain on it, which will prevent the penetration of light.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate perfectly insulates the room. Droplets formed as a result of condensation of rising evaporation flow down the walls of the greenhouse and do not fall on the plants or on the gardener’s head. The material transmits and diffuses sunlight very well. The heat generated by plants and soil does not escape through the greenhouse coverings, and therefore the necessary greenhouse effect is formed.	Glass does not provide the same high thermal insulation as polycarbonate, so the greenhouse effect is significantly reduced. The material transmits light well, but does not scatter it, and low-quality glass often begins to act like a lens, which is undesirable for plant leaves.	The new dense film creates good thermal insulation, but after working for one season, it becomes thinner and cloudy, so it loses its ability to completely retain heat and transmit light.

Taking into account the indicated parameters, it is possible to determine the best material for a particular greenhouse or greenhouse, which will be more consistent with their design.

Careful preparation for the construction of a greenhouse, its placement on the site

In order for the planting in the greenhouse to receive the light it needs for development, and to receive it throughout the day, the structure should be correctly distributed and oriented on the site. The final harvest largely depends on how long the beds are illuminated with natural light. For this reason, it is customary to install greenhouses in open space, alternatively with a transparent plane to the south.

Having decided on the type of greenhouse or greenhouse, and having found the optimal place for it on the site, plus, having distributed personal forces and capabilities, you can proceed to drawing up a sketch, and also a small drawing.

Designing a greenhouse or greenhouse

It is not at all necessary to draw every detail using a ruler, given the strict rules of drawing art. If you are the owner and want to do everything on your own, the project is intended for you and your assistants; you can simply draw a greenhouse by hand in a projection in which you can see all sides of the building, then indicate the dimensions of the main parts on them. Marking is usually done using rope and pegs; they are simply driven in around the perimeter of the potential pit.

What do you need to know about the pit and foundation?

If you have chosen a thermos greenhouse that will function throughout the year, then before digging a pit, it is best to carefully remove the top fertile layer of soil from the area. This soil is transferred to an individual pile, then it will be placed in the beds of the greenhouse. When deepening a pit, you suddenly come across layers of clay located under the fertile base; it is also better to put it aside, separately from the mixed soil.

Clay will pay off when adobe bricks are produced; they will be used to insulate the greenhouse. The depth of the pit should reach at least 1.7 m, but most often it is deepened to 2 m. It is at this distance that the natural geothermal heat that comes from the ground is preserved, thus the soil never freezes. Naturally, if a greenhouse is not equipped in the northern regions of the country, there is always permafrost there, even at shallow depths.

As for the width of the pit, the optimal figure is 2-5 m, and the length is determined based on desire. You cannot make the greenhouse wider, because it will quickly cool down, and heating and lighting will require a huge amount of electrical and other energy. Apart from the pit itself, a smooth descent is made, where as a result the entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed. If the place is marked for an all-season version of the greenhouse, it is optimal to dig a trench there for a strip foundation, up to 0.3 m wide and deep.

This is really enough, since the structure is not heavy, so there is minimal load on the foundation. In height, directly above the ground, it is optimal to raise the foundation by 0.2-0.5 m, although sometimes only 0.1 m is poured, the rest of the wall is built from brick if necessary. Then sand is poured into the trench and compacted in a layer of 0.5-0.7 m, then crushed stone in an identical layer. Afterwards, formwork is installed along the trench, with a slight recess into it, and as a result it is filled with concrete mortar. You should make sure that the concrete lies tightly and there is no air in it; to avoid problems, it is optimal to carry out bayoneting by piercing the poured mortar with a bayonet shovel.

Sometimes it happens that support posts made of metal pipes, other parts of the greenhouse or greenhouse will eventually be attached to them. It is possible that the basis for the greenhouse can be a wooden frame made of timber; it is treated with an antiseptic and installed on a sand cushion.

Installation of greenhouses

Everything is clear with the base, you can move on to installing the option you like.

Greenhouse or greenhouse on a wooden frame

A greenhouse that doesn't need to be there concrete foundation, where the basis is a durable wooden frame, it is mounted without any particular difficulties:

A base box made of timber, with a cross-section of 20x15 cm, is laid on a smooth, prepared platform, covered with sand. The base should be in close contact with the surface of the earth over the entire area. For this reason, if, when laying the frame, a gap appears between it and the surface, it is better to seal it with a stone lining. It is imperative to level the frame, otherwise the greenhouse will be uneven and its operation will be unstable.

After you level the box, according to it internal corners You need to drive pieces of reinforcement into the ground, the length of which is 0.7 m; this measure is important in order to fix the base in one place.

The next stage is driving in the reinforcement along long side boxes, moreover, 0.7-0.8 m should go into the ground, and 0.6-0.7 m should remain on the surface. The reinforcement should be located at a distance of 0.5-0.7 m from each other, and opposite similar ones rods installed on the other side of the box, as this is the basis for securing the pipes.

Pre-prepared metal-plastic pipes required length. A kind of arcade is formed, which will serve as the basis for a transparent coating.

To ensure that the pipes stay tightly in one place, it is better to strengthen them metal loops, which are screwed with self-tapping screws to the box.

If the structure is voluminous, it is better to strengthen it well at the end sides; they should stand rigidly. This frame not only guarantees rigidity, but also forms the doorway.

To do this, you need to place the bars vertically, the cross-section of which is 5x5 cm, then fasten everything in several places with horizontal crossbars. Sometimes, assuming that transverse fastenings are indispensable, pipes for arches are connected with cross adapters, and horizontal sections of pipes are installed in them.

Another option for imparting full rigidity to the structure is to fasten the arcade at the top of the vault with a single pipe.

Fastening can be done with wire or plastic clamps, construction tape or “ties”.

The frame, which is formed from pipes, must be covered with thick polyethylene film, it is laid out with an overlap of 0.2-0.25 m. In the lower part, the film is attached with construction staples and a stapler to a wooden box. Initially, the film is well stretched over the arcade, then attached to the end sides; at the doors, the material is folded into the greenhouse.

The door itself should be light, but be a rigid structure. It is usually created from a 0.5 x 0.3 m block, plus to prevent deformation, a pair of slats are attached diagonally. Then the resulting fabric is covered with plastic film. It is customary to hang the door on a previously prepared opening using hinges. Window openings are installed exactly like this part; they are located almost under the ceiling, on the opposite side of the door. This will ensure natural flowing air circulation.

Features of a thermos greenhouse

Construction of foundations for walls

After the pit for the greenhouse is ready, a strip foundation is created along its perimeter. To do this, a trench must be dug, then various actions are carried out, identical to those described earlier, where we were talking about the foundation for a winter greenhouse.

When the foundation is completely ready, the walls begin to be laid; we must not forget about installing one or two ventilation pipes. They are installed in the lower part of the end side of the building, opposite front door, at a height of 0.5 m from the floor.

After installing the roof, it is customary to raise the pipes to a height directly above the ground, at least 1 m.

Proper wall laying

The walls are usually laid from adobe, foam concrete blocks, sometimes from permanent formwork made from polystyrene foam blocks; their cavities must be filled with cement mortar. If the latter option is the most relevant, you can immediately get insulated walls, but in this case it is valuable to separate the structure from the ground with plastic film. As soon as the stone walls are erected, the gap between the soil and the masonry should be sealed with clay, while compacting it well. The diagram of the greenhouse-thermos is clear in the lower figure.

The walls need to be raised from the foundation above the ground by at least 0.5-0.6 m. If permanent formwork was not used for them, then everything should be optimally insulated to the depth of soil freezing, taking into account the regional climatic conditions where the greenhouse is being built.

The insulation can be installed with outside walls, that is, between it and the ground. For this reason, the gap between them will have to be widened, then the insulation will have to be separated from the ground using a waterproof film. When the insulation is polystyrene foam, it will rise above the ground surface, in particular, from the outside of the building, while it is important to waterproof everything, then seal it with an external decorative coating. It is optimal if it turns out to be a material that does not rot when moisture comes into contact with it. For example, a plastic lining will do.

Closing the insulation can be done using another method, for example, covering the entire outside with expanded clay and covering it with roofing material on top. In this case, corrugated sheeting is justified; it is attached below the polycarbonate, or even glazing. In this case, polyethylene film for covering the roof will pay off.

Frame installation

The next stage will be the installation of a frame to cover the walls, and also the ceiling, with polycarbonate, because its installation is simple and safe.

Initially, bars are laid and secured on the walls that are raised from the pit. anchor fastenings, their cross-sectional size is literally 10-15 cm.

Rafters, and also ridge beam should have a similar cross-sectional size as that of the bars mounted on the walls. A sparse sheathing is attached to the rafters, literally 2-3 bars per slope. In this case, it is needed to guarantee the rigidity of the structure. Then polycarbonate sheets are attached to the sheathing. They are attached with certain self-tapping screws with a large head, in other words, a press washer, and also a rubber gasket.

Upon completion of the installation of the roof covering, the end walls of the greenhouse are finished with polycarbonate, then the finished door is installed. It’s great if it has a glazed part. In addition to all this, the upper part of the ventilation, a kind of hole, is installed almost under the roof itself, and a pipe is attached there.

How to strengthen the structure?

It is important to focus on the fact that you need to leave the part of the roof that faces south open to sunlight, because the sun spends more time there during the day. Another roof slope from the inside of the greenhouse is covered with foil insulation, which will reflect the light falling on it through the transparent part of the roof. For this purpose, it is optimal to use foamed polyethylene, the thickness of which is 5 mm, with a foil part.

Fastening occurs to the roof rafters thanks to self-tapping screws with a wide head. At the junction, the insulation must be folded onto the wall. It is customary to insulate the walls of a greenhouse in a similar way; the material is attached to vertical stone planes liquid nails, or even a sheathing of thin slats is installed on the wall, plus polyethylene foam is secured with self-tapping screws.

The purpose of the foil coating is not simply to reflect light into the space, but also to conserve carbon dioxide, heat and moisture, which are vital during the photosynthesis that occurs in plants.

How to organize heating in a greenhouse?

To prevent heat from leaving the greenhouse or greenhouse for a long time, ventilation holes It is customary to install doors. The room can be heated different ways, for example, the electrical system " warm house", then convectors and oven long burning. And if the greenhouse is located near the house, it is possible to water heating directly from the gas boiler.

If a “warm floor” system is installed, then before placing it, you need to prepare the bottom of the greenhouse, because energy can be wasted in the ground. The system should be installed under the beds, although if necessary it can be placed under the paths between them.

Preparation takes place in stages:

• a heat-insulating sheet is applied to the ground; it’s good if it contains foil;
• be sure to pour a layer of sand about 5 cm thick;
• a reinforcing mesh is placed on top, the cell size of which is 3x3 cm;
• then the heating cable is fixed;
• it is covered with a sand cushion of 5 cm;
• the reinforcing mesh is laid again;
• 30-40 cm of soil is placed on it.

Each layer is laid in formed beds, with bricks or boards protruding as sides. The beds are usually arranged along the walls, but if the greenhouse or greenhouse is wide, then an additional line is installed in the middle. It’s good to create beds under small angle, so the soil surface will be slightly turned towards the transparent roof slope on the south side. Quite often in Lately Convectors are installed in the greenhouse for heating.

They really have many advantages that are ideal directly for greenhouses and greenhouses:

• They dry the air minimally, compared to other heaters, because they are designed in such a way that they create artificial circulation of warm air;
• easy to install, just hang the convector on a bracket mounted on the wall, plug it into a power outlet, and set the temperature level on the regulator;
• I’m pleased that there is an automatic mode for turning the heater on and off, taking into account the selected temperature, this saves energy;
• The device is small, with an aesthetically modern look.

Before purchasing a convector for heating a large space, it is better to look at the characteristics of the device, take into account the power, then it will become clear how many heaters are needed for your area. Another heating solution is a long-burning cast iron boiler with a water circuit.

To install such a system, you will have to do a lot of work:

• First, the boiler is installed, its installation is carried out directly in the greenhouse, or even in an adjacent room;
• you need to build a chimney that can be raised to a height of at least 5 m;
• for the pipe to pass through the hole equipped for it, it is better to isolate the combustible materials of the greenhouse from high temperature, during the heating of the boiler;
• it is important to calculate the correct slope of the circuit pipes, then install supply and return pipes for the coolant, most importantly, correctly distributing the radiators;
• the system needs to be filled with water, then a temperature sensor must be installed directly in the greenhouse.

The installation of the described system is probably really complicated in comparison with other analogues, in particular, if we draw a parallel with the converter heating system.

When heating the greenhouse, it is important to note that for normal development and growth of plants, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature at +25...+30 degrees, and the soil temperature should reach +20...+25 degrees. Moreover, indoors it is important to maintain normal level humidity.

What will a greenhouse or greenhouse look like on a foundation?

A greenhouse mounted on a strip foundation will easily function throughout the year if the necessary conditions are there.

Accordingly, the assembly of the structure is carried out extremely carefully, because it must be generally airtight, not counting, of course, the installed ventilation system. For the frame, it is optimal to prefer wood, since it conducts cold minimally in comparison with metal profile, it is guaranteed to create “cold bridges”.

The frame for this version of the greenhouse is installed in stages:

• on adobe or stone, plastered walls that are 0.5-0.7 m above the ground, it is laid waterproofing material, basically, classic roofing felt;
• thick ones are attached to it with anchors wooden beams, their width depends on the walls, and their height ranges from 5 to 15 cm;
• It is better to seal the gaps between walls and beams, or even metal profiles, with polyurethane foam;
• further work depends on what material will be the main one in the greenhouse, it may be a ready-made metal-plastic frame, or the foundation of a metal or wooden frame;
• then double- or triple-glazed windows are installed in metal-plastic frames, wooden frames with glass or double-glazed windows are installed in a wooden frame, polycarbonate is usually attached to a metal analogue.

The foundation, then the floor and the lower level of the greenhouse wall must be insulated. For this reason, in this case, it is better to prefer a “warm floor”, its structure is described above, and in addition you need to install high-quality converter heating. It will support temperature regime in room.

If the greenhouse is located in a cold region where there is a lot of snow in winter, then when clearing the yard of snowdrifts, it is better to pile the snow right next to the walls; it will serve as insulation and will make it possible to save on heating costs in the winter. For walls, it is better to prefer thick glass, about 5-7 mm, or even cellular polycarbonate, 10-15 mm. Honeycomb material has air gap between the main planes, it all works like insulation.

Lighting organization

Any greenhouse that is used in winter must be additionally illuminated, thus, the room will appear in a spring state, due to the fact that the length of daylight hours, as well as the intensity of winter solar radiation, will be really small.

In order to save energy in the form of lighting fixtures, it is possible to use lamps with LEDs. They are sometimes of different shapes, but are located only at the highest point of the ceiling. Naturally, if there is a desire, it is available to install classic lamps, they are mounted at the junction of the roof and walls, or, alternatively, high up directly on the walls.

To adjust the lighting hourly, it is possible to install a control unit with a specific timer, set on it the time when the light in the greenhouse needs to be turned on and off. The described system will make it possible to save energy and create extremely comfortable conditions for plants.

If a greenhouse or hotbed is needed only for the spring-summer period, it is not difficult to justify it, because no special insulation conditions or lighting are required. The winter option, in turn, is extremely complex, especially in calculations and construction, and in everyday use in general. Typically, these complexes are arranged by those people who professionally grow flowers and vegetables, and some exotic plants. Thus, they simply cannot do without comfortable room, with a special microclimate. All these maintenance costs will pay off over time when the sale of plants or fruits begins.

1. Greenhouse-house

From window frames you can build charming houses that will not only provide comfort to plants, but will also become a stunning decoration for your summer cottage.

2. Dome

A large polygonal greenhouse, the frame of which is built of wood covered with ordinary oilcloth. Despite the complexity of manufacturing, this dome-shaped structure is distinguished by its attractive appearance, stability and excellent illumination.

3. Plastic cap

A mini greenhouse that can be made from a regular plastic bottle by simply cutting off the bottom. Such a greenhouse is best suited for cucumbers and zucchini, as these plants do not tolerate transplantation well and spend a lot of effort on adaptation. At the beginning of planting, the cap should be covered with a lid; later, when the daytime temperature reaches twenty degrees, the lid should be removed, and later the bottle should be removed altogether.

4. Caskets

From four boards and window frame you can make an original small greenhouse for flowers and plants. At first, the lid of the window frame should be kept closed, and when the plants grow and become stronger, fold it back.

5. Foldable design

A convenient, practical folding greenhouse that can be made from small-diameter PVC pipes and regular polyethylene.

6. Umbrella

A small greenhouse made from a wooden barrel and an old oilcloth umbrella or the frame of an ordinary umbrella covered with polyethylene.

7. Cozy tent

A greenhouse tent, which can be built from a children's tent, equipping its walls with inserts made of oilcloth or polyethylene, or you can buy a ready-made film greenhouse tent. The advantages of this design are its compactness and mobility.

8. Plastic house

From plastic bottles It can make a wonderful open or closed greenhouse. Creating such a greenhouse will not require large expenses or special skills, and you determine the size and design of the structure yourself.

9. Lifting cover

An original greenhouse with a lifting lid, made from wooden planks, thin PVC pipes, polyethylene and metal chains. This design is quite simple to construct and very convenient to use.

10. Flowerbed

A small greenhouse, to create which you will need a wooden frame of the desired size, two thin plastic pipes and a piece of oilcloth. The beauty of this design is that when the plants get stronger and the night temperature rises, the oilcloth can be easily removed and thereby turn the greenhouse into a neat flower bed.

11. Mini house

A charming greenhouse made from plastic CD boxes is perfect for growing indoor plants and will be a great decoration for your balcony.

12. Pallets

A small greenhouse can be easily built from old pallets and plastic film. This greenhouse is perfect for growing seedlings or indoor flowers.

13. Container

An ordinary plastic container will make an excellent greenhouse, which is suitable for growing seedlings on the balcony.

14. Reliable boxing

Large greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate.

Large and durable greenhouse made of polycarbonate attached to wooden frame, which, despite the difficulties of construction and some capital investments, is perfect for growing any crops and will last for many years.

Continuing the topic, to the attention of readers for proper disposal.