Brick is reliable and durable. This material looks attractive and presentable. But brick walls have one significant drawback: thermal conductivity. Even relatively warm ceramic material conducts heat well and does not sufficiently protect the building from the cold. In our climate, it will be necessary to build walls 64-90 cm thick to ensure sufficient thermal resistance. More rational option will be the manufacture of external walls of the building from other materials with insulation and cladding. How to cover a house with facing bricks? It's not difficult if you know the technology and the nuances of the work.

The house, lined with brick, looks solid and presentable, it is protected from wind and other unpleasant weather phenomena. This finishing option is used for both lightweight concrete and wooden houses.

How to choose facing bricks for your home

Before you line your house with brick, you should carefully select the material. It is important to select cladding not only by cost, but also by technical specifications and properties.

Ceramic bricks are most often used in construction. This material has fairly good (compared to other types) thermal insulation properties. The disadvantage in this case will be high hygroscopicity. The technology involves the use of both ordinary ordinary material and special facial material.

Ceramic brick is simple, durable and easy to use

In the first case, it is strongly recommended to perform processing outer surface after laying with a hydrophobic composition. Facing brick does not need such treatment. The composition for treatment is selected with sufficient vapor permeability. This is especially important when finishing with brick wooden house. It is required that the impregnation does not form a film on the surface that prevents the permeability of the walls to air and steam. Which brick to choose for frost resistance? The brand must be no lower than F35 according to the standards, and no lower than F50 according to the recommendations of the builders.

Another popular option is silicate material. It is the cheapest, but is not durable. Facing a house with this type of brick conducts heat well and absorbs moisture. Most often, silicate is heavier than ceramic. This option is not recommended for finishing timber house(we also include a frame house and a log house here).

Sand-lime brick is less durable than ceramic brick, but for 20-30 years you won’t have to worry about the problem

To decorate bricks with your own hands, you can use clinker material. It is specially designed for cladding a house, therefore it has low moisture permeability and high strength. Clinker finishing looks attractive, but this pleasure is not cheap: prices are on average 50-150% higher.

Undoubtedly clinker brick – the best choice among all the options. You can choose almost any color and shade

How to cover a wooden house with bricks

Brick and wood have very different characteristics, so certain difficulties may arise during the work process. When facing a wooden house with bricks, it is imperative to provide for sufficient ventilation of the main part of the wall. Otherwise, the wood will begin to rot or become moldy.
Before covering the house with facing bricks, it is worth carefully examining the wall pie. Three-layer walls with brick cladding in this case will include:

• wooden supporting part;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• waterproofing and wind protection;
• ventilation gap min. 50-60 mm;
• brick lining.

1 – ventilation layer; 2 – fastening the cladding to the wall; 3 – facing brick; 4 – additional insulation with windproof membrane; 5 – vapor barrier; 6 – finishing; 7 – thermal insulation; 9 – log wall

It is important not to confuse vapor barrier and waterproofing. The latter must be permeable to steam so that it can easily escape from the insulation and brick into the ventilation gap. It is recommended to use modern vapor diffusion windproof membranes.

To ensure free air movement when facing with bricks wooden house, it is necessary to provide vents in the lower part and outlet openings in the upper part. It is recommended to use mineral wool as thermal insulation. It is characterized by low cost, ease of installation and good air permeability.

Before properly covering a wooden house with bricks, you must wait time for the walls to shrink. This process may take a couple of years, so the easiest way would be to an old house.

Advantages and disadvantages

In construction it is very difficult to combine materials with different properties. In this case, nuances always appear and negative sides. Finishing the facade with brick for a wooden building has three disadvantages:

• decreased ventilation, likelihood of moisture accumulation in the insulation;
• different shrinkage of parts of the wall, which does not allow rigid connection between the cladding and the main wall;
• the high mass of brick compared to wood (more than 3 times) forces the construction of more powerful and expensive foundations.

In general, we can say that it is better to decorate an old house with brick. For new construction, it is recommended to consider other more economical and efficient options.

But the technology has its advantages:

• improvement of thermal performance (especially when using ceramics);
• reducing the level of fire danger;
• reliable and durable protection of wood from negative weather conditions.

Technology

Cladding the façade of a house with brick is done after treating the wood with an antiseptic. You should choose a special impregnation composition for outdoor use. It will protect the wall from mold, mildew and other dangerous microorganisms. Further to the wall on construction stapler attach a vapor barrier. Installation is carried out with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

A vapor barrier located on the inside of the wall will prevent moisture vapor from entering the insulation from the room

Facing the facade with brick begins with the installation of the sheathing. The dimensions of the frame bars depend on the required thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the thermal insulation can be selected approximately based on the recommendations of neighbors or the Internet, but it is better to use a special calculation. Using the fairly simple Teremok program, even a non-professional can make thermal calculations. You only need to know the thickness of the wooden wall and its thermal conductivity, as well as the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation. Brick (and all layers after ventilation gap) are not taken into account in the calculation.

The frame block is attached to the walls with screws or nails. Next, the house needs to be sheathed with insulation. Mineral wool is placed tightly between the sheathing. To do this, the distance between the bars should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Waterproofing and wind protection are fixed on top of the insulation. Fastening is carried out using a construction stapler. After such preparation, they proceed directly to lining the house with bricks.

The hydro-windproof membrane protects the insulation from wind and moisture, but does not prevent excess water vapor from escaping from the wall to the outside

The thickness of a brick verst is usually 120 mm. This is not enough to ensure stability, so the wall must be connected to the main part of the external structure.

This can be done in two ways:

Fastenings are located in places where load-bearing frame

The finishing installation technology is also relevant for frame buildings. The only difference is that the connections between the wall and the external materials are attached to the frame posts. In all cases, cladding must take into account the ventilation gap.

Reinforcement

To cover a building with brick, it is recommended to provide reinforcement for the finishing. To increase strength and rigidity, a wire mesh with a diameter of 3-4 mm and cells of 50x50 mm is used. The mesh is laid in the seams between the horizontal rows. The frequency depends on the brick:

• covering the building with a single brick (65 mm high) - every 5 rows;
• one and a half (88 mm high) - every 4 rows.

The dimensions of seams with and without reinforcement must be the same. To control, the mesh on one side is moved slightly beyond the masonry. This option increases reliability, but increases the cost and complexity of the work.

How to clad a house with lightweight concrete

In this case, a lined house can be built from aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete, cinder blocks, and expanded clay concrete. A house made of facing bricks is less breathable than the listed materials. For this reason, just as in the previous case, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap.

The installation method is very similar to a wooden house. The only difference is that you can use rigid connections between the wall and the cladding. The minimum number of connections is 3 pcs. per 1 sq.m. Ties are not allowed to be placed in the seams of the main wall; they are nailed to the surface.

When constructing a building from fragile cinder blocks, it is recommended to build a frame that will take the load from the floors and other building structures. In this case, the walls will be self-supporting. Finishing the house with facing bricks is attached to the cinder block very carefully.

Your own brick-lined house is beautiful and reliable. But when carrying out work, you must follow certain recommendations.

A wooden house has a lot of undeniable advantages, the main one of which is the environmental friendliness of the building. In addition, the use natural wood as a building material, it allows you to create a truly homely, warm atmosphere in your home. At the same time, such buildings can hardly be called durable, since despite modern antiseptic and anti-corrosion compounds, the walls wear out quite quickly due to aggressive influences environment. To ensure their maximum protection, wooden houses are often lined with brick - a much more durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material.

What you need to do quality work

Creating such protection is a rather complex process and requires a responsible approach. First of all, it is necessary to accurately calculate the materials needed to complete the work. These include:

• brick. You can choose either traditional building stone, silicate or facing clinker;
• steel reinforcement that will be required to build the foundation. Brick finish will have quite a lot of weight, so you won’t be able to do without a solid foundation;
• cement, crushed stone and sand for preparing the solution.

How to cover a wooden house with bricks? In this article we will provide detailed instructions that will make it easier to complete this rather complex procedure.

Setting up the foundation

For the strength and reliability of a brick-lined house, it is best to equip a durable strip foundation, which is constructed in several stages:

• We dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the building, the depth of which should reach at least half a meter;
• We place a cushion of crushed stone and a stove at the bottom of the trench, and carefully compact it;
• we tie steel reinforcement in the form of a rectangle and install it on the prepared base;
• Fill the trench with liquid mortar and wait until it reaches maximum strength. Usually only 6-7 days are enough.

How to prepare wooden walls

Before covering the house with bricks, you will need to properly prepare the walls for this process.

To do this you need to follow a few simple steps:

• we eliminate existing irregularities and protrusions along the entire perimeter;
• We thoroughly clean the walls from dirt and moss, ensuring they are perfectly clean;
• We treat wooden surfaces with antiseptics and compounds that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls.

It is also advisable to immediately insulate the walls from the outside. As thermal insulation material It is better to use mineral wool, which makes it possible to reduce the heat loss of the building, and can also serve for many years without needing replacement or complex maintenance. Be sure to lay a vapor barrier on the insulation layer, which will remove condensation.

Bricklaying

After performing steam and waterproofing works You can start lining the wooden house. For this purpose, we need a solution of cement and sand (proportion - approximately 1:4). In the process of performing work, you must be guided by the following rules:

• between wooden wall and brickwork, it is necessary to leave a distance of 6-10 centimeters to eliminate possible cold bridges and to effective ventilation which will prevent the occurrence of mold;
• in the process of laying bricks, be sure to control the level using special tools - weights, plumb lines and others;
• process all seams cement mortar or polymer compounds selected color.

We should not forget about the lintels that need to be laid in the locations of doors, windows, and other structures. You will need especially a lot of them if you want to cover it with bricks. two-storey house. These elements can be made of steel angle or reinforced concrete products.

The technology of cladding a wooden house with bricks also involves the use of embedded parts, through which the masonry will be connected to wooden base. They should also be made of metal treated with anti-corrosion compounds to extend service life.

The last stage is execution finishing works, for which any modern or traditional materials– plaster, siding, paint resistant to any external influences and others. The choice depends solely on your capabilities and taste preferences.

Is it worth covering an old wooden house with bricks? As practice shows, this approach has many advantages:

• wooden walls will be maximally protected from aggressive environmental influences;
• if initially there is no foundation under the building, then you can make it more durable by laying a concrete strip foundation along the entire perimeter of the house;
• it becomes possible to qualitatively insulate the walls from the outside and minimize the heat loss of the building, ensuring an optimal climate inside;
• improves significantly appearance dwellings. Especially if you cover it with aesthetic facing bricks.

Before covering a log house with bricks, you should find out the feasibility of this work. Will cladding a log house lead to a deterioration in the quality of the wood? Will the tree rot? These are the two main questions that usually arise for any owner of a wooden house.

A wooden house is faced with brick to strengthen, insulate, and make the structure more aesthetically pleasing.

Prerequisites for the work

If you have a house built from high-quality timber, its attractiveness is beyond doubt. Cladding works will only lead to unnecessary additional costs. The log house should be covered when a plank or frame building is built. It is especially advisable to implement exterior finishing when the house was built a long time ago. Over time, the wood dries out, which causes cracks to appear. Brick cladding will not only improve the aesthetic properties, but also thoroughly strengthen the structure.

When covering a wooden house with siding, air access to the wood is blocked, which leads to its premature rotting.

Some “experts” claim that the log house of a wooden house can be made attractive by finishing it with siding. But this is completely wrong design solution. Using siding will not allow the wood to “breathe”. As a result, it will rot. Climatic conditions play an important role when cladding a log house. When cold winter or wet weather prevails in the region, it is imperative to clad a wooden structure with brick. Firstly, it will increase the thermal insulation and sound insulation properties of the building. Secondly, the service life of a wooden house will increase.

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Types of facing bricks

Bricks for cladding a house are characterized by a huge range and ideal surface quality. There are four main types of finishing materials:

• silicate;
• ordinary ceramic;
• hyper-pressed;
• clinker.

Types of facing bricks: silicate, ordinary ceramic, hyperpressed, clinker.

To make sand-lime bricks, lime, sand and a minimum amount of special additives are used. It rightfully belongs to the facing materials. But it is best used for interior wall decoration and when creating interior partitions. Sand-lime brick has excellent soundproofing properties. At the same time, this finishing material has low frost resistance and thermal insulation.

The most common method of cladding a log house is to use conventional ceramic bricks. This material has:

• long operational period;
• excellent thermal insulation qualities.

The only drawback of ceramic bricks is their high absorption of moisture, which can destroy the finishing material. For this reason created wall made of brick must be coated with a special water-repellent composition.

The production of hyper-pressed brick is based on a sand-cement mixture, to which stone chips, expanded clay, limestone and slag are added. The facing material is characterized by plasticity, good thermal conductivity and low vapor permeability. A significant “minus” is the appearance of microcracks, which can increase under the influence of a humid environment.

Clinker brick is the most expensive material for finishing a log house. It is made from high quality clay, which contains special additives and is fired. Basic positive features clinker bricks:

• strength;
• long operational period;
• low moisture absorption.

The disadvantage of the material is increased thermal conductivity, which causes additional thermal insulation work.

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Preparatory work

This stage involves a thorough inspection of the foundation and floor beams of a wooden house.

A solid buried foundation, created below the freezing level of the soil, is the main requirement when facing a wooden house with brick.

To cladding a house with bricks, you first need to strengthen and expand the foundation of the house.

The walls of the log house do not bear a huge load. For this reason, in most cases, the laying was not carried out sufficiently strong foundation under the house. When finishing a building with brick, the load on the base will increase significantly. The foundation inspection is carried out as follows. A hole is dug using a drill. The depth and features of the foundation are determined. Often rubble stone was used as a foundation under old buildings. In this case you will have to create reinforced belt along the entire perimeter of the building. Its width should exceed the dimensions of the future brickwork.

The expansion of the base is accompanied by the installation of an additional layer of waterproofing. For these purposes, roofing felt is usually used, laid in 2-3 layers. And only after this the new foundation is poured. Before cladding the house, special attention is paid to the beam floors. This is especially true for old buildings whose beams may have cracked or become moldy. If you have outdated, dilapidated beams, it is better to do a full renovation load-bearing structures. All wood must be treated with an antiseptic and compounds designed to counteract negative influence mold, mildew, insects, fire and damp environments. The quality of ventilation between the beams must also be checked.

To cover a log house with bricks you will need following materials and tools:

• concrete mixer;
• brick (50 pcs/1 m²);
• metal pins (10 pcs./1 m²);
• sand;
• cement;
• wood;
• buckets;
• roofing felt;
• antiseptic for wood processing;
• grinder with a disc for stone;
• Master OK;
• pick;
• level;
• plumb line;
• rule;
• roulette;
• wooden slats;
• fishing line;
• nails;
• axe;
• wooden pegs;
• a tool designed for cutting seams.

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Technology of brick cladding of a wooden house

At the initial stage, precise measurements of the angles of the structure being created are carried out. A fishing line is stretched along the walls of a wooden house. Wooden pegs are used to secure it. The fishing line is located from the walls of the building at a distance exceeding 1 m. This is the only way to qualitatively create angles equal to 90º.

Scheme for facing a wooden wall with bricks: 1-vapor barrier, 2-load-bearing wall, 3-thermal insulation, 4-fiberglass or metal connections, 5-cladding brick.

The accuracy of the angles is checked by applying the fishing line to opposite corners in a diagonal direction. If the distance along the diagonals is equal, then the location of the corners is marked correctly. To determine the outside of the brickwork, the fishing line is placed over base part foundation. The next stage is verification vertical level location of future walls. To do this you should use wooden slats and level.

If the logs interfere with the brickwork, they must be cut off with an ax. The most common technology is cladding a log house to a thickness equal to half a brick. Standard distance from log walls to the brickwork should be within 20 cm. The width of the brick is 12 cm.

The gap obtained between the stone and the wood serves as ventilation duct. This will prevent moisture from appearing under the facing material. During masonry work, it is imperative to create ventilation holes at a distance of 3 m from each other. To prevent insects from entering the holes, they are covered with a fine mesh. If there is an uneven base part, leveling the surface is carried out by applying concrete mortar. The strip foundation is covered with roofing felt along the entire perimeter. The brickwork should not be in direct contact with the base.

Laying facing material on the log house is done using fishing line, level and rules. After passing two or three rows, you should move a little to the side and use a plumb line to check the correct vertical position of the wall being built. After the cement has set, it will be difficult to carry out any work to eliminate inaccuracies in the masonry. To achieve maximum brick stability, you should use a special welded mesh for masonry work.

When doing half-brick masonry, a mesh is simply necessary. Its installation is carried out in increments of 4-8 rows of bricks. The mesh should not protrude beyond outside finishing material. It is covered with a small layer of concrete mortar. The mesh should not be an obstacle to the seam cutting process.

Perfect for insulation mineral wool, which is located between the timber of the house and the facing brick.

You should immediately take care of additional insulation Houses. For these purposes, mineral wool, which is attached to wooden structure. The presence of a fibrous structure in the insulation leads to an improvement in the natural ventilation properties of the structure, which is the key to the safety of the wood and its resistance to rotting. Maximum stability of a brick wall when cladding a log house is achieved by using galvanized metal pins. With their help, erected Brick wall securely connects to the wall of a wooden house.

The pin fastening pitch is:

• horizontal direction – 1 m;
• in the vertical direction - every 4 rows of timber (or logs).

Joining the seams between the laid bricks requires the presence of a small depression up to 1 cm deep. It is designed to prevent destruction of the masonry as a result of moisture. Masonry work are held in sunny weather. After they are completed, the erected wall is covered with plastic film.

Modern construction market offers a large number of finishing materials. But brick facade is still popular among private developers. According to many, a cottage lined with brick looks solid, and the facades of private houses made of brick are distinguished by increased durability and trouble-free operation.

These statements are true only if the main condition is met - the brick facade of the building is made according to all the rules and using high-quality building materials. Otherwise, instead of prestige, such a decision will turn into a real headache for its owner.

In this article we will cover:

• What nuances should you be aware of before lining a house with bricks?
• Is a ventilation gap necessary when facing walls with bricks?
• What is the best way to connect facing bricks with load-bearing wall.
• Is it possible to line a wooden house with bricks?

Finishing the facade of a house with brick: features

Most often, a developer, having decided to clad a house with brick, is guided by the banal “I want.” A lot of things that directly affect the performance characteristics and the service life of such a facade, the most important of which is the design.

Facades of brick buildings.

The material of the facade should be thought out at the stage of designing the house, and not left “for later”.

If you neglect this rule, after the construction of the “box” a whole bunch of problems appear. It turns out that the width of the foundation is not enough to support the facing brick, because The owner decided to additionally insulate the walls during the construction stage. The facade of the building is made of face brick (and it has heavy weight) exceeds bearing capacity the foundation and the strength of the foundation, as a result the masonry cracks.

The workers do not know how to properly connect the brick façade to the load-bearing walls. As usual, they do it “in their own way” and “as simple as possible”, using metal or fiberglass mesh, thin strips of galvanized steel, etc.

Therefore, in order not to make adjustments and corrections during construction, which inevitably leads to additional material costs, we are guided by the following several rules:

• The brick facade should be considered in inextricable connection with the material of the load-bearing walls, the type facade insulation(if there is one), the architecture of the house and its design.
• The brick facade takes up a significant wind load, which then, through special connections, must be transferred to the load-bearing walls. Those. a system arises: load-bearing wall-facade.
• The service life of this type of facade, as well as all its structural elements: connections, insulation, etc., must correspond to the service life of the load-bearing walls of the house. Those. - system elements: carrier façade wall must be balanced.

If, relatively speaking, the facade is supposed to last 50-60 years, but the connections or thermal insulation have lost their properties after 10-15 years, then this will lead to the need for major and expensive repairs. It is impossible to complete it without dismantling or partially dismantling the masonry.

There are many nuances, and a separate article can be written for each element of the brick facade system. Therefore, below we will give answers to the most common facade questions that novice developers have, using the example of an aerated concrete and timber house.

Is it necessary to create a ventilation gap when facing walls with bricks?

Motorist User FORUMHOUSE

I have read more than one topic on our portal, but I still haven’t found an exact answer as to whether it is necessary to leave an air gap when building a house made of aerated concrete, the walls of which I want to line with bricks.

To answer this question, you should imagine the wall in section and remember the rule mentioned above: interior wall+ façade = unified system. From here, we set the basic conditions for solving the problem.

Kripich façade masonry.

The wall can be two-layer (load-bearing wall + brick facade) or three-layer (load-bearing wall + insulation + brick facade).

The internal wall of the cottage is made of D400 aerated concrete. This material (like wood) is vapor permeable. Therefore, water vapor from the house, due to partial pressure, moves from inside to outside. If water vapor does not encounter any obstacles on its way, it will freely escape from the enclosing structure.

A brick facade has less vapor permeability than aerated concrete/wood. As a result, the rule will be violated: the vapor permeability of layers in multilayer structures should increase from the inside out.

Those. there is a possibility that water vapor will be “locked” in the wall (especially if facade brick placed close to aerated concrete). This will lead to waterlogging of the enclosing structure. The situation may worsen in winter during heating season, because due to the temperature difference inside the heated warm room and on the cold street, the intensity of the movement of water vapor from inside to outside will increase.

The air gap and, we note, must be ventilated, allows excess water vapor to freely escape from the wall.

The wall turns out to be “healthy” and warm (because with excess moisture accumulation, the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material increases, and the wall becomes “colder”). Excess moisture in the wall can lead to the appearance of ( interior decoration) mold and mildew, because the aerated concrete will have to dry inside.

Negative Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

I am a supporter of a ventilated air gap of 2.5 cm between the load-bearing wall and the brickwork.

The average air gap thickness is usually made in the range of 3 to 4 cm.

It’s decided, let’s create an air gap. To make it ventilated, vents are installed in the lower part of the masonry - ventilation holes. Air enters through them. Further, due to the traction that arises (since the gap at the top does not close, and connects to a ventilated under-roof channel) the air is discharged through the ridge of the house.

The vents also remove condensation that may appear on inner surface face brick. Accordingly: do not forget to waterproof the support unit of the brickwork in the lower part, when resting on the foundation or on a monolithic shelf.

The air gap optimizes the operating mode of the system: load-bearing wall - brickwork.

If the wall is three-layer, i.e. If additional insulation is planned, then the water vapor passing through the load-bearing wall and insulation (mineral wool) must be removed without fail, because Wet thermal insulation loses its functions and its service life is significantly reduced.

For ease of understanding, when installing a brick facade of a private house, we adhere to the same recommendations as when installing a hinged ventilated facade: we protect the insulation with a moisture- and windproof membrane, which also prevents the removal of insulation particles, etc.

We can say that the removal of particles of mineral wool thermal insulation will be minimal, and the insulation will not become waterlogged to critical values, and, accordingly, there is no need to spend money on a membrane. But remember that the miser pays twice.

Brick facade - expensive pleasure. The costs of purchasing high-quality wind and moisture protection will not lead to a significant increase in the cost of the entire structure, with a general increase in reliability and service life.

We remember the third rule: all elements of the system must be balanced, and replacing the insulation means dismantling the facade.

The question is also often asked about what step to make vents in the facing masonry.

Skintex User FORUMHOUSE

I am making a three-layer ventilated facade - a load-bearing wall, mineral wool, a gap of about 4-5 cm, face brick. Accordingly, I plan to leave the vertical seams in the bottom row of masonry empty for ventilation. I’m thinking about how to do this correctly: through a seam or through two seams to a third, and how many voids are enough?

The following picture gives a clear answer.

Important: there is also an expert opinion that you should not leave vents in the upper part of the brickwork, because this will lead to air flow will follow the path of least resistance (i.e. through the upper vents), but we need the air flow to come from below, ventilating the entire masonry.

To make the vents look neat and aesthetically pleasing, and not like a “home-made” one, from the voids between the bricks that are not filled with mortar, they can be made using special elements - a ventilation-draining box. The color of the box can be matched to the color scheme of the masonry, and the air leakage will be practically unnoticeable.

The boxes are placed at a distance of 0.75 - 1 m from each other.

How to connect facing bricks to a load-bearing wall

We have already said above that the brick facade absorbs significant dynamic wind loads, which must be transferred to the load-bearing wall. How larger area facade and the higher the number of storeys of the house, the greater these loads. Therefore, “folk” methods cannot be used as connections. Namely - “soft” - basalt or fiberglass mesh, etc. These materials, due to their relatively high flexibility and pliability, will not be able to transfer the load. Those. system: load-bearing wall - brickwork will not work.

Moreover, when asked how many connections there should be per 1 sq. m, one answer is given - this calculated value, which depends on the load and wind strength in a particular construction region. As a guide take 5 pcs. per 1 sq. m of masonry.

Let's move on to the selection of connections, which have the following requirements:

• high strength;
• long service life, because communications work in harsh conditions, with high humidity, frequent transitions through “0”;
• high corrosion resistance.

AlexanderNF User FORUMHOUSE

I am building a house from aerated concrete. I poured the foundation, erected the walls, and purchased facing bricks for finishing the facade. I was wondering how to connect gas silicate with facing bricks.

Before answering this question, let's tell you what you should not use. We proceed from the requirements for connections listed above. A popular option among builders is thin galvanized plates (perforated, or drywall hangers intended for interior work) that do not last a long time. Such plates, about 0.5 - 1 mm thick, can rust due to condensation forming on the inner surface of the facing brick. The zinc layer can be damaged by workers when laying plates, etc.

Such a connection may already collapse in, relatively speaking, 10-15 years. While a brick facade must last at least 50-60 years or more.

Thin plates bend easily. This advantage for builders (they are physically comfortable working with such “connections”) turns into a disadvantage for the developer.

A “flexible” connection of this type will not be able to completely transfer the dynamic wind load from the facade to the load-bearing wall.

The most rational materials for ties are two options - the use of stainless steel (plates or rods with a diameter of about 6 mm) or the use of flexible basalt-plastic ties.

The bonds are not placed in the gas silicate seam, but in the “body” of the block.

кodokopatel User FORUMHOUSE

I used these connections. They can only be called flexible, because... You can’t really bend them with your hands. But such connections provide some movement, allowing the “load-bearing wall-masonry” node to play relative to each other.

Unlike metal, plastic is not a “cold bridge” and is not subject to corrosion.

There are other options.

Sadovnik62 User FORUMHOUSE

I used fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm. The reinforcement was attached to the gas block, after drilling the hole, placing it on a chemical anchor. I simply couldn't find any other way. Thin galvanized steel will rust in the ventilation gap. I also tried placing 2 mm thick plates in the seam when laying aerated concrete with glue. I abandoned this idea. It would seem that the thickness of the plate is 2 mm, but this gives an error over the entire row with thin-seam masonry, and before laying the next one, you have to level the surface of the blocks.

Usually, when installing a brick facade, they act according to next rule: walls are erected and only after that they begin to install connections and lay face bricks. But it happens that the masonry of walls and facade is carried out almost simultaneously.

The main thing is to control workers at all stages, because It is impossible to check the quality of various hidden works after completion of the masonry. To simplify their task, builders can lay fewer connections, place the anchor at an insufficient depth in the masonry, etc.

• The depth of the anchor in the load-bearing wall is about 100 mm.
• Add the thickness of the insulation (if any).
• Add the width of the ventilation gap.
• We place the anchor in the facing brick according to the calculation – we do not reach about 2 cm from the facing part of the masonry. The tie should not be inserted into the outer seam.
• We add about 2 cm for reserve, because... the wall may be uneven (deviation load-bearing wall from the vertical), and if you take the connection end-to-end, it may not be long enough to lay it to the required depth.

How to cover a wooden house with bricks

Although this solution is common among budget-conscious developers, it is controversial. There are too many nuances to consider. A timber house (depending on the region of residence) does not meet modern requirements for thermal resistance of enclosing structures. Accordingly, such a house will have to be insulated.

You cannot use insulation based on expanded polystyrene (foam) or EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) for thermal insulation of a wooden house. Although such options do exist.

The fact is that these types of insulation do not allow water vapor to pass through. He will be locked in a wall that will begin to rot. These materials are flammable, and if a fire occurs, the fire will quickly spread in the ventilation air gap, and the house will be almost impossible to extinguish.

Expanded polystyrene building codes and the rules prohibit their use when constructing suspended ventilated facades.

If you insulate a wooden house, then only with mineral wool insulation. The question of how to cover a log house with bricks is often encountered among developers who plan to give the house a solid appearance.

sasha508 User FORUMHOUSE

I built timber house. I want to insulate it and cover it with brick. I'm thinking about how to do this.

A heated debate broke out on this issue on the portal. Users were divided into two different camps. In the first, those who believe that this is not worth doing, in the second, they express the opinion that it is possible to try, each case is individual.

Having decided to cover a wooden house with brick, we remember that wood is a “living” material, subject to seasonal fluctuations in humidity. The log house dries, shrinks and lives its own life throughout the entire period of operation of the house.

If you tie a brick facade to wooden walls rigidly - by forming a connection, driving in two long “150” nails at an angle of 45 degrees, then if the wood “shakes”, the brickwork will crack. It is also necessary to correctly calculate the number and cross-section of vents for sufficient ventilation in the gap. If you make a mistake, we will get insufficient ventilation, condensation, wood rotting, mold and mildew from inside the premises.

The rule of a balanced system is violated. It may turn out that a beautiful brick facade will last much longer than a wooden house.

But sasha508 I got to work and this is what I ended up with.

The house has changed dramatically.

Now the log house looks solid beautiful cottage, built entirely of brick.

The nuances of this construction are interesting.

The house was insulated with EPS by wrapping timber walls outside, under the slabs, with a moisture-windproof film. Note that extruded polystyrene foam it is vapor-tight, and the L-joining of the edges ensures a windproof connection. Therefore, wrapping the house with film under the insulation is extra work.

The ventilation gap is about 50-60 mm. The inside of the house is vapor-insulated. This minimized the amount of water vapor that could enter a wooden wall sealed on the outside with vapor barrier insulation (EPS). This reduces the likelihood that the timber will begin to rot and rot.

Although on our portal there are many options for the facades of brick mansions different color and examples of successful lining of a wooden house with facing bricks, this option requires great construction skills from workers, and any mistake can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the supporting structure.

Alehandrovich User FORUMHOUSE

Although developers say that I lined a wooden house with bricks, and nothing has rotted in 10 years, I will say that 10 years is not an indicator. Eathouses that have stood for 50 years, in which you won’t see much rot, but the wood simply decays, becomes very soft, the house gives large shrinkage, the walls bend like a barrel.

Summarizing

Having decided to clad a house with brick, we remember that this is an expensive undertaking, and such a facade must last for decades. Unlike siding, you cannot, if something happens, dismantle the structure, see what’s going on inside, take out the insulation, replace connections, choose a different color, etc. That's why beautiful facade a brick house stands on “three pillars”:

1. Competent calculation.
2. Use of various quality building materials with for a long time services.
3. Total control over the progress of all work performed by workers.
is a ventilation gap needed or not? aerated concrete house with brick lining, and .

The question: “Is it possible to brick a wooden house?”, which interests many private property owners, is not at all idle. Wood and brick have completely different thermal conductivity values ​​- and this can create certain problems.

For all current issues regarding this topic, we will try to provide comprehensive answers. You will be presented with instructions for installing a decorative brick wall, and the video in this article can be used as a visual aid.

Does a wooden house need brick cladding?

Cladding a wooden house with brick can be considered either as an option for the aesthetic design of walls built from low-grade wood, or, if the building is old and in need of major repairs, as an opportunity for their structural renovation. In other situations, choosing this type of finish simply does not make sense.

So:

• Walls built from good quality thick logs or laminated veneer lumber, and well caulked, do not need reinforcement, additional insulation, or even additional finishing. In addition, brick is a cold material, which can cause condensation to form on it. The wood will begin to get wet due to the accumulation of vapors that get under the cladding not from the outside, but from the inside of the house - and, accordingly, rot.

• Particularly at risk are those who carry out cladding without providing a ventilation gap between vertical surfaces, and technological vents for vapor release. It is also not recommended to install an impermeable roll membrane on a wooden surface, as it will become an obstacle to steam, and it will condense not on the cladding, but on the film.

It’s also bad that lining a wooden house with bricks cannot be done during the construction process, as is done during the construction of brick and block walls. A house made of timber or logs shrinks the most, and if there is such a need, the outer walls can be covered no earlier than a year - or better yet, a couple of years after construction is completed. But what nuances should be provided for in this case, you will learn from the next chapter.

Primary requirements

In order to be able to make brick cladding, when laying the foundation of a building, it is necessary to take into account the distance required to support the masonry. If the thickness of the decorative wall is half a brick, taking into account the size of the ventilation gap, the free console of the foundation strip should be 15-16 cm.

Although according to the standards, a brick can hang from the support by 4 cm, so a distance of 12 cm will also be sufficient. For a wall of a quarter brick, it decreases accordingly.

• If you decide to put insulation inside the structure, the width of the foundation will have to be increased in accordance with the thickness of the material, not forgetting about the gap. To avoid having to wriggle out later and top up the foundation, which only increases the price of the structure, such things must be foreseen and calculated in advance.

Note! The brickwork itself perfectly protects the walls from wind and precipitation, so there is no need to install any roll membranes inside. The only way atmospheric water can get inside a structure is by flowing down from the roof overhangs.

• And it gets there through a technological gap that is left between the last row of brickwork and the cornice. Therefore, when you plan to brick a wooden or any other house, you should first measure the width of the eaves overhangs.

If they are more than 35 cm, then everything is in order - if less, then the installation of a ventilated facade for such a building should not be considered at all. In this case, if you really want the facade of the house to look no worse than brick, it is better to give preference façade panels under the brick, which is what we see in the photo.

Believe me, doing this type of finishing yourself is much easier than expanding the foundation and then laying out and reinforcing a decorative wall.

Base for brick cladding

Many people are interested in whether it is possible to cover a wooden house with bricks if it has a frame structure?

Let us answer right away: for a frame house this type of finishing is the most preferable. In such a building, only the frame is made of wood, which is filled with insulation and covered with sheathing sheet material.

Its walls are a multi-layer structure, in which both vapor barrier and wind protection are necessarily present:

• Condensation practically does not form in them, so there is no need to be careful, as is the case with timber or logs. The only problem is that frame houses are often placed on point supports: piles, monolithic or block pillars - this allows you to reduce labor costs and the cost of the building.

• Since the walls of a frame house are very light, even channel lining is not always made for them, but is made from timber. But for brick cladding A stronger support is required: a strip foundation, concrete or metal grillage. In this case, the brick cladding of a wooden house, which is carried out during its operation, begins with the construction of a foundation for the cladding.
• This can be either a slightly buried concrete strip or metal piles screwed into the outer perimeter of the house and tied with a channel with a wide flange. Of course, all this additional expenses, and they make sense only when the dilapidation and unpresentable appearance of a wooden building that has been in use for a long time requires constructive intervention.

For the brick cladding of a newly built house, support must be provided at the design stage. After all, even with a sufficient budget, no one wants to throw extra money down the drain.

How to make a support

Be that as it may, if the existing foundation does not allow brickwork to be supported on it, you will have to start constructing additional support. The easiest way, of course, is to pour a concrete strip - or even better, to make a full-fledged concrete blind area around the perimeter of the house.

The current construction rules allow brick cladding to be supported on a blind area - if, of course, it is done according to all the rules.

• This is very convenient, because in order for surface moisture not to come into contact with the walls of the house, or if the pile foundation does not stagnate underneath it, a blind area is still needed. And the landscape of a personal plot benefits greatly when there is a beautiful blind area around the house.

• In principle, it is built in the same way as a shallow strip foundation - the only difference is in the width of these structures, and even in the slight slope that is necessarily present on the blind area. The only thing is that in the blind area, which is to become a support for the masonry, the slope begins not from the existing wall, but from outer surface decorative brick wall.
• The width of the level area is calculated in the same way as if it were a strip foundation. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the above diagram. This is the easiest way out of the situation - unless, of course, your house is located in a swamp or heavily frozen heaving soil.

IN similar situations, houses are usually placed on stilts, and a blind area is made from monolithic concrete there is no point - it won’t last long in such conditions anyway. Then you will also have to install pillars or piles under the cladding, and the channel welded to their heads will serve as a support for the brickwork.

Construction of a decorative wall

For lining wooden walls most can be used different types bricks: silicate, ceramic, hyperpressed. But most often they use facing bricks - colored or with a relief applied to one spoon and one butt edge.

So:

• It would be somehow illogical to lay out the walls from ordinary brick, which would then also have to be plastered. It is easier then to install a warm plaster facade on the walls, in which the plaster is applied to the surface of rigid polystyrene foam boards.

When the wall thickness is provided at half a brick (125 mm), hollow bricks are used to facilitate the masonry. If the wall thickness is a quarter of a brick (65 mm), it is laid on edge, so a solid brick is already needed.

The masonry technology, as such, in this case is no different from the construction of ordinary walls: in the same way, roofing felt should be laid under the first row, and to control the horizontality of the rows, a mooring cord should be pulled.

Tying masonry to a wooden wall

The only difference is that here you need to not only reinforce the masonry in every fourth row, but also tie it to existing wall. There are quite a lot of reinforcement methods, and the master usually selects the most suitable option, based on the design features of the building walls.

• To fasten masonry to solid wood, you can use dowels with wire tied to them. But, according to many experts, for tying brick cladding to any existing wall, direct hangers, which are usually used in installation, are best suited suspended ceilings. They are fixed to the wall by installing expansion anchor bolts.

• One edge of the hanger is laid so that it covers a little more than half the wall thickness, and the second end is folded in accordance with the distance to the main wall. Thanks to the perforations on the suspension, bending it into the desired position is not difficult.
• The bend is carried out so that the mounting hole is on the wall of the house. Drilling is done directly through it for fasteners, and then anchors are driven into the finished holes with hammer blows. Even if the arm of the suspension rises a little after driving the anchor, it’s okay: it is flexible enough, and its edge can be easily inserted into the masonry and clamped with a brick.

Such fastenings should be located fairly close to each other - through one brick. Taking into account the vertical seams of the masonry, it turns out something about 65 cm. In a frame house, you can drive anchors only in vertical racks, and between them is only 60 cm.

To ensure that the missing five centimeters do not create problems, the brick cladding is tied to the frame of the house using a masonry mesh. You can see this option in the photo above, and we think that everything is clear here without words.