When arranging various engineering communications Traditionally, ventilation pipes are installed on the roof. This approach has its own characteristics and requires careful adherence to installation technology. In addition, pipes should be located in accordance with the requirements of SNiP and other regulatory documents.

Features of pipes for ventilation on the roof

Outputs through the roof are suitable for:

• ventilation of internal premises;
• installations fan pipe sewer riser;
• ventilation of the attic space.

The ventilation pipe on the roof is located in such a way that exhaust air can be removed without hindrance. Moreover, its height and cross-sectional shape are determined by operating conditions and the required productivity.

The easiest way to route a pipe through the roof is to pass it through the roof ridge. This installation option is characterized by ease of installation and insulation work, but in this case rafter system should not have a ridge beam.

For pitched roofs, a suitable solution would be to install a ventilation pipe close to the ridge. In addition to the above advantages, this arrangement does not require additional strengthening and installation of a snow removal system, since it does not linger.

Possible output device errors and their consequences

Typically, the construction of supply channels and outlets to remove air masses is carried out during the construction of a house, taking into account the area of ​​​​the premises, the roof structure and the type of roofing material.

If the work is carried out in an already constructed building, then it is necessary to plan in advance the location of the ventilation pipes in such a way as to cause minimal damage to the roof surface during their installation. Otherwise, the sheathing and rafters may be damaged, and the tightness of the coating may be compromised.

Errors in installing ventilation pipe outlets are fraught with consequences, including:

• penetration from the kitchen and bathrooms into living quarters due to ill-conceived integration of air ducts;
• ineffective air removal from the kitchen if the roof exhaust pipe was installed in the wrong place;
• freezing ventilation ducts due to their insufficient insulation.

A ventilation pipe installed on the roof must withstand significant wind loads, so you should not choose products that are too thin.

Devices to improve ventilation efficiency

To use wind energy for natural ventilation, a ventilation pipe deflector is used, which is a special attachment. It is installed on the exhaust pipes or above the exhaust openings, depending on the type of system.

The principle of operation of the deflector is the rarefaction of air masses, which occurs in its diffuser under the influence of wind force. The larger it is, the more effective the removal of air masses. The deflector is installed during the installation of the ventilation outlet on the roof.

Roof pipe installation technology

Before constructing the ventilation pipe outlet, it is necessary to complete the installation of internal utilities and securing the air ducts. The list of necessary tools depends on the type of roofing material and may include a chisel, metal scissors, a drill and a jigsaw. In addition, you will need a building level to control the correct location of the ventilation pipe and a marker for marking.

Stages of installation of the passage unit

It is more convenient to route the pipe to the roof through the ceilings using finished design passage unit, which is installed as follows:

• determine the installation location of the passage element on the roof, taking into account the features of its design and the requirements of SNiP;
• outline the contours where the ventilation pipe will be located and cut a hole of the required diameter in the roof, choosing a tool and method depending on the material used;
• in the same way, holes are made in the waterproofing and;
• mark the position of the passage unit according to the template and drill a number of holes for attaching self-tapping screws;
• clean the roof surface from dust, dirt and moisture;
• apply a layer of sealant to the lower surface of the sealing gasket and place it in the intended place;
• a pass-through element is installed on the gasket and secured with self-tapping screws;
• the ventilation pipe is inserted into the passage unit, then its vertical position is checked and secured with screws.

After installing the ventilation pipe on the roof, you should check the tightness of the base of the passage element: it must be pressed against the roof in such a way that excess sealant from under the structure is removed. In addition, the air duct exit to the roof should be sealed from the attic side.

Additional devices

To protect the air ducts from debris and atmospheric moisture, use a cap on the ventilation pipe, which prevents it from clogging and increases its service life. Typically it consists of the following parts:

• covers in the form of an umbrella that protects from precipitation;
• dripper used to drain water flowing from the top.

In addition, aerators can be installed on the roof, which ensure air circulation between the thermal insulation layer and the outer covering of the roof. They are necessary if the length of the slope exceeds 3 m and natural traction not enough. For the effective operation of aerators, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of air flow and the correct installation of counter-lattice over the entire area of ​​the roof slope.

At making the right choice location of the ventilation pipe outlet on the roof, compliance with its installation technology and use additional accessories It is enough to simply ensure optimal movement of air masses in the system and create a comfortable microclimate in the room.

Almost every residential building during its construction or reconstruction is equipped with an air purification system. Plastic ventilation pipes are often used to lead the hood to the roof. But, no matter what ventilation option is used, the most significant stage of its equipment is ensuring passage through the roof.

The technology for making ventilation passage units for each type of roofing material is different. To ensure trouble-free operation of the ventilation system of a residential building over a long operational period, its arrangement must be approached professionally.

In this article

Pipes for ventilation system

The pipe is the main component of the hood and heating system. Its installation is a rather complex stage of construction, especially for large buildings. In the process of designing premises, specialists must pay attention to the placement of the hood ventilation system.

The best option is to have it under the ceiling in every room of a residential building. ventilation windows across from the window. According to TISE requirements, at the stage of erecting the walls of a building, the installation of a chimney pipe and ventilation hood is simplified due to the presence of a vertical channel in the wall.

Ventilation windows can connect all rooms to each other.

The need to route the air duct to the roof:

• ventilation of the attic and interior spaces;
• installation of a drain pipe from the sewer system.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system

Ventilation outlet through the roof. According to the standards for the construction of residential buildings, premises without windows must be equipped with ventilation ducts. This can be checked during a thorough inspection of any room in a residential building. For example, in a bathroom or toilet you can find characteristic gaps on the wall.

For the kitchen, despite the fact that there is a window, a ventilation system is also provided. In this room, special requirements are placed on it. Ventilation must ensure proper operation, air ducts must go to the roof - this is not an easy task for builders, requiring preliminary calculations and design.

Types of ventilation pipes

For the ventilation system the following are used:

• smooth polymer (polyurethane, polypropylene) pipelines;
• steel corrugated, galvanized air ducts;
• aluminum pipelines;
• There are also insulated options for air ducts.

Surface aluminum pipes ribbed, they create significant noise during operation, retain grease and dirt, and as a result require constant cleaning. In a private house, plastic ventilation pipes can be routed through a wall or roof.

The air duct of a private house can be used to discharge through the roof into external environment combustion products during operation gas boiler. In winter, when the air temperature drops significantly, the humidity level increases. This contributes to the formation of condensate, which contributes to the leakage of pipe joints. To prevent this, the outlet of the exhaust pipe to the roof must be insulated.

Insulated PVC ventilation pipes are most often placed in the attic. The air duct that goes out onto the roof can be protected from condensation on its own.

Basic elements of the ventilation system design

The ventilation system consists of the following elements:

• Ventilation system duct. It is selected depending on the required size and pipe cross-section. The easiest way to install a hood in the kitchen is to use profile pipe made of plastic, as it is very easy to attach. Standard parameters of the pipes used rectangular section for arranging the air duct - 6x12, 6x20.4 cm.
• Connection elements. Can be transitional, equivalent. Transition connectors are used to connect ventilation pipes made of plastic; the transition itself is smooth.
• Rotating elements. To change the direction of the air duct in a vertical or horizontal plane, additional rotary components are used.
• Tees. They provide rotation of the ventilation system by 90 degrees in different directions, all outlets have the same cross-section.
• Pipe fastening components. Fastening elements are designed for quick installation of PVC ventilation pipelines.
• Check Valve. Provides the ability to set the required direction of air movement. This component is mainly used for forced ventilation systems. Check valve prevents outside air from entering the room when the fan is turned off.

Plastic ventilation pipes for exhaust to the roof are provided with special adapters that ensure the transition from a rectangular cross-section to a round cross-section, as well as other connecting and fastening elements that allow you to equip the ventilation system in a private house yourself. Additional components for the air duct are selected relative to the parameters of the main pipeline.

Requirements for ventilation system ducts

• The minimum diameter of the ventilation system pipeline is 150 mm. It is with this cross-section that standard galvanized steel pipes are able to withstand operating loads.
• When installing supply and exhaust type ventilation, it is necessary to take into account that the air duct on the outlet part must have increased annular rigidity, since the section of the ventilation pipe that is located above the roof will be subject to significant wind loads.
• The air duct must not only have increased strength characteristics, but also have thin walls (the thinner they are, the higher their throughput).
• The chimney of a private house should not become rusty as a result of the deposition of steam exhausted from the premises on the inner walls of the ventilation system pipes. In addition, the design of the ventilation system of a residential building should not be subject to combustion or release harmful components during the heating process.
• The design of the ventilation system must have a minimum weight.

The standard material used to install a ventilation system in private housing construction is galvanized steel pipe and brick. These building materials are characterized by all of the above properties.

Roof pipe installation technology

Before you begin removing the air duct, you need to complete the arrangement of utilities inside the building and secure the air duct. List of tools required for execution installation work, will depend on the selected roofing material. As a result, you may need:

• metal scissors;
• chisel;
• electric jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• building level required;
• marker for applying the necessary markings.

Stages of equipment for the passage unit

• An area on the roof is determined for installation of the ventilation system pass-through component. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the design features of the roof and the requirements of SNiP.
• Marking is carried out: the contours of the location of the ventilation pipe are marked. Next, a hole of the appropriate diameter is cut in the roofing covering, insulation, and waterproofing layer (the tool for this is selected depending on the type of material).
• Next, the location of the passage unit is marked according to the template, and holes are drilled for fastening with self-tapping screws.
• The roof surface is cleaned of dirt and moisture must be removed.
• Before installing the seal in the intended location, a layer of sealant is applied to its lower surface.
• Next, a pass-through component is mounted on the gasket, which is fixed with self-tapping screws.
• A ventilation pipe is inserted into the passage unit, its vertical placement must be checked with a building level, only after that it is secured with screws.

When the installation of the pipe is completed, it is necessary to check how tightly the passage component adheres to the roof. When it is pressed normally against the roof surface, excess sealant will “crawl” out from under the structure gasket. It is also necessary to ensure sealing of the pipe exit to the roof from the side attic space.

Additional design elements

To prevent atmospheric moisture and various debris from entering the air duct in the future, you can use a special cap for the ventilation pipe, which consists of the following elements:

• an umbrella-shaped cover will protect from precipitation;
• To drain the water flowing from the top, a drip is installed.

Such a cap will significantly increase the service life of the air duct.

If the length of the roof slope is more than three meters (there is not enough natural draft), in addition to the ventilation duct, aerators are installed on the roof to ensure circulation between the thermal insulation and the roofing covering air flow.

Let's sum it up

If the ventilation system pipe outlet area is correctly identified on the roof, all installation rules are observed in accordance with building regulations, application additional elements To improve the operation of the system as a whole, it is very simple to ensure the most comfortable microclimate for living in your own home.

A gardener’s dream is to have his own spacious and dry basement for storing vegetables from the garden, canning and other household items. How to properly ventilate a home cellar technologically? To equip a good storage facility in a private house, it is necessary to equip it with a supply and exhaust air exchanger. Proper hood in the cellar will ensure optimal humidity and temperature conditions.

The optimization and quality of ventilation depend on the correctness of its arrangement. Scheme proper operation The air exchange system is simple. The space in the basement provides 2 channels of supply and exhaust structure. Through one, fresh air enters the room, through the other, fumes are removed from the cellar.
When the underground storage area is small, air exchange is created in the cellar with one pipe. But the efficiency of a system with one channel will be low.

Proper cellar ventilation is characterized by the following factors:

• maximum performance indicators are achieved by connecting risers of a certain diameter to the holes;
• the quality of system operation is determined by the location of the exhaust and supply openings above the basement;
• basement ventilation pipes are installed in the walls if the basement is located under the garage or under the house, or are discharged through the ceiling if the storage facility is located on the street;
• when building a cellar hood with your own hands, you need to take into account the installation height of the inlet and outlet channels from the floor;
• The hole diameter must be the same in all channels. Too small - leads to musty air, and vice versa, the intake large quantity cold leads to freezing of food;
• a ventilation device in the cellar involves installing supply and exhaust risers on opposite corners or walls. A certain distance is required between the pipes. This arrangement provides maximum passage fresh air around the room, pushing out the stagnant;
• holes for removing stagnant air are made under the ceiling;
• the ventilation exhaust duct is installed above the embankment of the basement. Its length, for the normal functioning of the air duct system, must be at least 150 cm:
• to organize underground ventilation, PVC pipes of the same diameter are used;
• when arranging the supply and exhaust structure, it is necessary to achieve direct location communications. Twists and turns make it difficult for air to pass through;
• To maintain an optimal microclimate in the basement, it is recommended to install dampers. In the cold season, they regulate the flow of cold air;
• sections of air circulation channels from the outside are covered with bars, mushrooms and must be insulated.

Guided by the above tips for arranging ventilation in the cellar, you can achieve optimal ventilation of the underground storage facility.

Types of supply and exhaust air exchange systems in basements

Depending on the layout and area of ​​the subfloor, the type of hood is selected. There are several types of air exchange systems in basements.

Natural ventilation

The ventilation device in the cellar, using the type of natural ventilation, is based on the difference in temperature and pressure outside and inside the room. Effective operation depends on the correct location of the holes. The supply channel is placed at a height of 25 - 30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust passage - 10 - 20 cm from the ceiling.

Compulsory system

The forced air exchange design consists of two pipes with built-in fans that force the air to move, creating an artificial vacuum in the room. Their power depends on the dimensions of the basement.

Combined ventilation

When creating air exchange inside the subfloor and choosing hoods, it is necessary to take into account the features of the building. It can be located under a residential building or garage, or located separately on the street. These factors influence the correct duct capacity.

Underfloor in the house: creating air outlet communications

Ventilation in the cellar under the house has two purposes: it ensures the comfort of living in the house and storing food in an accessible place. An improperly functioning ventilation system negatively affects living comfort - it leads to the penetration of musty and stale air into the home.
What should a cellar hood be like to ensure optimal storage conditions and comfortable living conditions for the owners? To arrange the ventilation of a room under a residential building, use the forced method, installing a stationary fan on the exhaust hole or a natural type.

System Features

Ventilating the cellar under the house has its own nuances:

• the supply channel is installed through the foundation of the building;
• the pipe for fresh air intake should not have many bends, turns, narrowings and expansions;
• When bringing the holes out, you need to make sure that they are not covered with dirt or snow;
• to prevent condensation, the outer part is insulated;
• the exhaust elbow is placed along the wall.

Most often in residential buildings, the basement is built under the kitchen.

Basement under the garage

Ventilation of the cellar under the garage involves maintaining a microclimate in the underground room for storing things and food, as well as preventing dampness. Structurally, the hood is divided into the following options:

1. natural - due to the difference in pressure and temperature inside and outside. Natural air circulation is a popular cheap option. It assumes the presence of two holes with pipes made of metal, plastic or PVC.
2. Artificial burial ventilation - ventilation occurs forcibly using installed fans. Their work is controlled by a monoblock control.
3. a combined method that allows you to combine the two above types.

What hole diameter is required for the ventilation system?

Determining the required pipe size ensures optimal operation of the cellar ventilation system. Professional designers perform a complex algorithm for calculating the diameter of pipes, but for independent construction a simplified form is used:

• for a basement area of ​​1 m², a channel cross-sectional area of ​​26 cm² is needed. Let's take an underground storage facility of 4x3 m as a standard.
• We calculate the area: S = 3x3 = 9 m².
• for such dimensions you will need a pipe with a cross-section: T = 9x26 = 234 cm².
  ) = √ (234/3.14) = 8.6 cm
• the diameter is calculated as Dп ≈17 cm = 170 mm.

Knowing the required dimensions, you can proceed with subsequent installation activities.

Installation work

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar is not difficult. But the correctness of its construction depends on the knowledge and skills of the home owners. Following the advice of professionals, you can independently build air exchange in the basement.

1. If the ventilation system is installed in finished basement, then a hole is made in the ceiling for the air duct outlet.
2. An exhaust pipe is passed through the niche and fixed under the ceiling.
3. From the street, the outlet channel rises 150 cm above ground level.
4. An air inlet through the wall is mounted in the opposite corner and lowered down. It is placed no lower than 20 cm from the floor.
5. The intake hole in the yard should be lower than the supply hole. This ensures natural traction.
6. A deflector, a fungus and a mesh are installed on all terminals of the supply and exhaust system.

Drying the subfloor

Drying is considered the simplest method of cellar ventilation. If there is high humidity in the room, then it needs to be warmed up.

• To ensure a favorable microclimate, it is recommended to open all doors and hatches in the basement. The room is completely dried and ventilated.
• containers with hygroscopic substances are used: table salt or quicklime, which perfectly absorb moisture and dampness and disinfect the air.
• installing a burning candle in the exhaust duct helps to increase the intensity of draft. Air circulation increases significantly, and harmful fumes are removed from the room.
• drying the room with wind-blown heaters, portable stoves and electric heaters is considered the simplest and most affordable way.

It is better to start drying in the summer. Natural ventilation with warm air gives maximum effect.

Waterproofing measures

Covering the underground space with waterproofing compounds allows you to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions inside.
There are several insulation options:

1. For concrete walls, deep penetration impregnations are used, which are used to treat all surfaces. Each layer penetrates the concrete to create a waterproof and breathable surface.
2. Roofing felt is used as an insulating material. The sheet is laid on a surface treated with mastic.
3. clay - environmentally friendly pure material, which also retains moisture well.

In addition to the above options, other means are used, but the above ones are distinguished by their availability and safety of use.

How to properly ventilate a cellar? There are some tips:

1. In winter, it is better to cover the hood so as not to contribute to the strong cooling of the basement. For this, old blankets and rags are used, which are placed on a steel grate in the hole.
2. Drying out the cellar is also harmful. Increase humidity to optimal level You can use a spray bottle (spray water occasionally) or boxes with wet sand.
3. The air temperature in the basement should not be the same as the outside temperature. To expel musty fumes in the underground room, fans installed in the system channels are used.

A properly equipped air exhaust system is the key to maintaining a microclimate in the basement. Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation is an opportunity to create ideal storage for vegetables and preserves.

Proper ventilation in the cellar - theory and practice

The cellar is a brilliant invention of man, which can be put on a par with the invention of penicillin and automatic washing machines. Thanks to the presence of this underground room, man was able not only to grow crops, but also to preserve them. The special shape, a thick layer of earth above its top and proper ventilation of the cellar created a special microclimate in which it maintained the same temperature and humidity almost all year round. The correct microclimate did not allow human agricultural reserves to deteriorate, as in the summer heat and at the most harsh winters. And in this, ventilation plays an important, and perhaps the main role.

Basement and cellar: purpose and main differences

We would like to immediately make a reservation that the cellar and the basement are completely different rooms, with different tasks. It's called a basement ground floor buildings that are part of the house. This floor can be used as a storage room for any supplies, various things, sports and tourist equipment. In the basements, many owners of private houses equip boiler rooms, garages and gyms.

In fact, the basement is a place for installing utilities for the house. Thanks to this space, a person has good access to them. In addition, the basement plays a role air gap between the floor and the ground, which is very important in terms of thermal insulation of the premises of the house.

A cellar is a room, usually underground, that is intended exclusively for storing products, mainly for agricultural purposes. It can safely be called an underground storage facility. It can be located either inside the house or as a separate building. If it is part of a house, then very often the ventilation system used in it is common to the house. If the underground storage is a separate element from the house, then it has its own ventilation.

Duct requirements

Air vents are divided into two groups, supply and exhaust. In addition, they can be round or rectangular. Round pipes are the most popular, but take up more space, and rectangular boxes, with the same cross-section, take up less area, but have a high cost. They also differ in the material from which they are made. The most common is a PVC pipe and a galvanized metal air vent.

Advice:
The higher the exhaust pipe, the better the draft and, accordingly, ventilation in the cellar. If the underground storage is not part of the basement of the house, then the issue of attaching the exhaust pipe becomes quite acute. It can be secured using guy ropes, with lanyards installed on each for tension. The simplest and most effective way to fasten an air duct is to enclose it in an insulated wooden box, which is strengthened in the ground using concrete.

Calculation of the cross-section of air ducts and selection of fan power

To effectively ventilate an underground storage facility, the air ducts must be able to pass through required quantity air masses, and this depends on their diameter. How to find out what cross-section of air ducts you need to build an effective cellar ventilation system with your own hands? There are two ways to find out exactly the required diameter of air ducts:

1. Order a calculation from the appropriate organization. This will give you a guarantee that all calculations will be made correctly. True, this procedure is not the cheapest and for the calculation you will need to pay an amount that may exceed the cost of organizing the entire cellar.
2. Perform the calculations yourself, and you will have to remember the arithmetic, but it will be absolutely free. Which method to choose is entirely up to you.

In order to do the ventilation of the cellar with our own hands, we will need to find out the volume of the room for storing food and the frequency of air exchange. The recommended air exchange (how many times the air in the cellar is changed) is from 2 to 4, depending on the products stored in it.

• To find out the volume of a room, you need to multiply its length by its width and height. Consider a cellar with dimensions of 2 m x 3 m x 2.5 m = 15 cubic meters
• To find out the amount of air passed in an hour, you need to multiply the volume of the cellar by the recommended air exchange rate. Let's consider the average value 3. As a result, we get that in 1 hour 15 cubic meters x 3 = 45 cubic meters should pass through the cellar

We find the cross-sectional area of ​​the air ducts using the following formula:

• S- recommended air speed
• L- air flow.

In our case, the speed of air flow is 1 m/s. (norm for natural ventilation).

We get the cross-sectional area of ​​the air duct:

45 / (1 m/s x 3600) =) 0.0125 sq.m.

We calculate the radius data for a round pipe:

• R- duct radius (mm)
• F- air duct cross-section (mm.kv)
• π - constant = 3.14

Based on the data we get:

The radius of the round air duct we need must be at least 125 mm

Now let's move on to calculating the performance of the exhaust fan. You can use a simplified method. To do this, you need to multiply the volume of the room by 12. In our case, it is 15 cubic meters x 12 = 180 cubic meters/hour. The performance of an exhaust fan for a cellar with an area of ​​6 square meters, with a ceiling height of 2.5 m, is 180 cubic meters per hour.

We arrange the cellar ourselves

Many people ask: “How to make ventilation in the cellar?” Now that all the calculations have been made and money has been saved, we begin to purchase air ducts and equipment. To install a combined ventilation system we will need:

• The required amount of PVC pipe, diameter 125 mm.
• One end tee for draining condensate.
• One brass or plastic tap for insertion into the end tee.
• Pipe fasteners.
• Exhaust fan, capacity 180 m3/h. Important! The fan is installed inside the exhaust pipe, so look for a model that will fit the diameter of your ducts.
• The required amount of wire, with a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm2, plug.
• Round air intake grille with a diameter of 125 mm – 2 pcs.
• Metal mesh to prevent rodents from entering the cellar 15 cm x 15 cm.
• Deflector. Purchasing a deflector is optional. It serves to increase draft in the exhaust duct in the event of a power outage and the fan stops.

Ventilation in the underground food storage room, which is located under the house, is somewhat easier. Moreover, all calculations remain the same, and the fastening of air ducts is made easier. Exhaust - must exit through the basement and pass with outside Houses. The height of the exhaust pipe should be 0.5 m higher than the roof ridge.

Expert advice:
Before installing the exhaust pipe, install a fan in it and secure it with standard fasteners.

Using our tips, we hope you can easily equip your underground storage facility with the right ventilation system.

Proper ventilation in the garage cellar

There is no need to talk about how important proper ventilation is in the garage cellar. Everyone knows that without ventilation the cellar is damp and the food stored there quickly spoils. In addition, if damp air from the cellar enters the garage, this leads to corrosion of metal objects in the garage, including the car.

Natural ventilation of a cellar in a garage - diagram

In general, everyone is aware of the need for proper ventilation in the garage cellar. But not everyone knows about how to make ventilation in the garage cellar.

Let's start with the fact that ventilation of the garage, cellar and observation room can be one of three types:

• natural,
• combined,
• mechanical.

Natural ventilation in the garage cellar

Natural ventilation is used in small garages and cellars. Its main advantage is accessibility. However, in summer such ventilation is ineffective or does not work at all, and in winter it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the ventilation ducts. They can become clogged with snow or overgrown with frost inside.

• Advantages:
  • no energy source needed
  • noiselessness,
  • availability.
• Flaws:
  • job instability,
  • the need for periodic inspections and cleaning of pipes,
  • impossibility of any adjustments,
  • inability to use filters.

Natural ventilation in the garage cellar is done in accordance with the following rules:

• the supply and exhaust pipes are usually located in opposite corners of the basement;
• in the cellar, the end of the supply pipe should be located at a height of 0.3-0.5 m from the floor;
• in the cellar, the end of the exhaust pipe should be at a height of 1.5-2 m from the floor;
• if the exhaust pipe is mounted entirely outside the garage, it must be insulated (a distinction should be made between through pipe installation - through the garage room, and wall installation - outside);
• the minimum height difference between the suction and outlet openings of the ventilation system (they are located on the street) is 3 meters;
• the entrance hole from the street side is covered with a grill or mesh (from rodents and large insects);
• It is advisable to cover the exhaust pipe with a canopy, or even better, with a diffuser that increases draft;
• The approximate diameter of the hood pipe in centimeters can be obtained by multiplying the garage area (in square meters) by 1.5;
• The diameter of the exhaust pipe can be 10% of the diameter of the supply pipe.

Natural ventilation in the garage cellar - device options

Remember that every additional bend in the vent pipe reduces the efficiency of the entire system. By the way, for ventilation of a garage, cellar and observation room, you can use pipes from almost any material.

Combined ventilation in the garage cellar

Increase efficiency natural exhaust You can install a light bulb in the exhaust pipe, which will heat the air and further enhance the draft. As an alternative to a light bulb, you can use a candle - in this case, you can do without electricity. But it is still better to install a fan. This is the most The best way convert a natural ventilation system into a combined one.

As you guessed, combined and natural ventilation in the garage cellar differ from each other only in the presence of a fan on one of the air ducts. When turned off, the fan will create a slight additional resistance to air flow. But by turning it on, you can ensure effective ventilation of the cellar regardless of the time of year and weather conditions.

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar is provided by permanent job fan Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of such a system:

• advantages:
  • stability of work;
  • possibility of adjusting efficiency and air heating;
  • possibility of using an air filter.
• flaws:
  • constant energy consumption;
  • complexity of installation;
  • significant cost of some components;
  • presence of wearing and breaking parts.

Forced ventilation is based on the same principles as natural ventilation. After all, natural air movement should help and not hinder the operation of the fan.

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar can be provided by a duct fan

When installing forced ventilation in a garage cellar, special attention should be paid to safety. This applies to electrical wiring, installation of switches and fans. It is best to choose duct fans.

As for filters, air heating and adjusting the operation of the hood - all this requires additional costs and is done as needed.

Cellar

The microclimate in the cellar depends not only on ventilation. The material of the walls and floors, the quality of waterproofing and insulation work are all very important factors. Do not skimp on such things; do not think that proper ventilation in the garage cellar can completely compensate for the flaws in its construction. Try to make a high-quality cellar in the garage; it is quite possible that you will then be able to get by with natural ventilation.

Hi all! Sandwich garages are my passion. I can talk about them day and night. I can and will tell you =)

Dry cellar: making proper ventilation

The dream of every gardener is to have a dry and spacious cellar, the air in it should be fresh, but without drafts. In order to build such a miracle storage facility with your own hands, you need to provide it with supply and exhaust ventilation. Proper ventilation The cellar will allow you to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions for storing vegetables, relieve it from excessive dampness and humidity, and protect it from the appearance of mold. Knowing the basic rules for installing natural ventilation, you can make the cellar dry yourself.

Natural ventilation - the correct device:

• to ensure good ventilation, 2 pipes are installed: supply and exhaust;
• air exchange will be better if the ventilation pipes are located in two levels and, if the storage design allows, in different places, which will avoid the suction of fresh air;
• the exhaust ventilation pipe is placed at the top - right under the ceiling;
• the supply pipe for the ventilation of the cellar, on the contrary, is at the bottom at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor;
• The figures below show the correct and incorrect cellar exhaust system;

• using a larger number of ventilation pipes with a smaller cross-section is undesirable, which is especially important for northern regions;
• with such a cellar ventilation device, air exchange occurs due to the difference specific gravity warm internal air and cold outside. This is a natural process, therefore ventilation of the cellar according to this scheme is called natural;
• the exhaust pipe must be installed above the roof ridge and insulated (it is made double) in the place where it passes through the cellar or attic. The higher the draft in the exhaust ventilation pipe, the greater it is;
• The cross-section of the ventilation pipes depends on the size of the cellar. So, with a cellar area of ​​6-8 sq. m, the exhaust pipe is required to have a cross-section of 120x120 mm, but if the cellar is equipped with only one pipe, then its cross-section should be at least 150x150 mm;
• For the manufacture of ventilation pipes, boards 30-40 mm thick are used. They are well adjusted, tightly knocked together and equipped with valves (latches) and dampers, which will allow you to regulate air exchange and temperature and humidity conditions;

• if the cellar is small, then one two-channel pipe with wind catching is sufficient for its ventilation (see figure). With this design, the pipe has two channels - one for air flow into the cellar, the other for exhaust. Each channel can be equipped with an independent valve;

• ventilation of some types of cellars (for example, if it is located under a garage) can be arranged through a hatch covered with a grille. The grille is insulated on top with an old blanket or other insulation;
• You can check the effective operation of the ventilation by placing pieces of thin paper on the outlet openings of the pipes. If there is convection, the paper will begin to sway;
• The second way to check whether the cellar ventilation is working is to place a bucket of hot coals in it. By the movement of smoke from the coals, you can observe the air flows inside the vegetable storage;
• insufficient ventilation can be easily detected by the following signs: stale and musty air; mold; feeling of dampness; condensation on the ceiling, bins, walls, shelving;
• To reduce humidity, the cellar needs to be ventilated. To do this, the internal doors are made with bars and in the fall everything that can be opened is opened - hatches, doors, latches. At the same time, a box filled with coarse table salt or quicklime is brought into the cellar (they not only absorb moisture, but also disinfect the air);

• if, on the contrary, you need to increase the humidity in a cellar you built with your own hands, then you can spray water, sprinkle the floor in the cellar with wet sawdust, or put a box filled with wet sand.

When the cellar is in the garage

Ventilation of the cellar in the garage is important not only to maintain the temperature and humidity necessary to ensure the safety of food, but also to prevent dampness in the garage. Options for extracting a cellar in a garage:

1. natural - based on the temperature difference between outside and inside the basement, causing continuous air circulation. Natural ventilation of a cellar in a garage is the cheapest hood option.
2. forced (artificial) - air flow is forced by fans. Fully mechanized ventilation of the basement under the garage using a monoblock or modular system controlled software, costs from 1000 US dollars;
3. combined - includes elements of natural and forced ventilation of the cellar.

as in the case of a cellar in a house, in most cases natural ventilation is used to ventilate a cellar in a garage, the performance of which is quite sufficient for small volumes of vegetable storage. The scheme for natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage also provides for at least two pipes made of resistant materials. The most suitable material for ventilation pipes is metal or plastic, for example PVC. Below is a ventilation diagram: on the left is a standard diagram; on the right is a diagram of the ventilation system for the cellar in the garage, which ensures ventilation of the garage itself.

As can be seen from the diagrams, proper ventilation of a cellar in a garage includes:

• supply and exhaust, located on different sides of the room. The best placement is in the far opposite corners;
• ventilation pipes must have the same cross-sectional diameter along the entire length;
• the fewer bends and turns there are in the supply and exhaust ventilation pipes of the cellar in the garage, the better. Ideally, there should be none at all;
• the supply pipe is located as close to the floor as possible. The pipe opening is covered with a mesh to prevent the penetration of rodents and other small animals;
• the bottom of the exhaust pipe - as high as possible (closer to the ceiling);
• the top of the exhaust pipe is located as high as possible - at a distance > 0.8 - 1 m above the ridge, and in the case pitched roof, counting is carried out from its highest part. The high location of the cellar ventilation exhaust pipe in the garage improves draft and prevents its outlet end from being covered with snow;
• Air exchange is adjusted through control dampers built into the supply and exhaust ventilation of the cellar in the garage. Dampers allow you to dry the cellar and regulate both the inflow and outflow of air. Dampers are indispensable for ventilating a cellar in a garage in cold winters, when it is necessary to dose the volume of air renewal; otherwise, stored vegetables and preparations can be frozen;
• From above, both pipes are protected with canopies, protective covers or deflectors. This will prevent precipitation from getting inside, and also, if a deflector is used for exhaust, it will create a vacuum area around it, which will increase draft;
• Warm air comes out through the exhaust pipe, so condensation may form inside it in frosty weather. The condensate freezes, which reduces the air passage area until the air duct is completely blocked. To prevent such a situation, the pipe must be insulated, especially in the place where it passes through the roof. For insulation, materials that are resistant to water are used. In addition, in winter the pipe must be periodically cleared of snow, and to facilitate the process, the outlet part of the pipe is made removable. This will allow you to clean only the clogged part of the pipe.

Proper natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage will ensure constant air circulation, and most of the room will be involved in air exchange. The cost of natural ventilation of the basement is insignificant, you won’t need to spend a lot of money, you can spend 1,500 rubles (purchase consumables, and make the ventilation device yourself). The main disadvantage of natural exhaust: when the air temperature outside is equal to or greater than the air temperature in the cellar, the air exchange stops.

allows you to arrange a cellar hood in the garage so that the air exchange process does not depend on weather conditions. To do this, it is necessary to modernize the exhaust pipe: an electric fan is placed in it, creating an air vortex. Thus, air is expelled from the room, which ensures an influx of fresh air through the supply pipe. Air exchange can also be organized through one passage (use a double-leaf pipe). The forced method allows you to organize ventilation of the cellar in the garage and ensure constant air exchange in the summer, when the natural method is powerless.

If desired, you can arrange ideal conditions for storing food in your garage cellar by installing fully mechanized basement ventilation. In this case, the supply and exhaust of air in the room is provided by a monoblock (modular system) and controlled by software. The cost of such installations can exceed $1,000.

When the cellar is in the house

Cellar ventilation in a house performs two functions at once: it provides suitable storage conditions for food and prevents a deterioration in the comfortable living of people in the house. Improper ventilation of the cellar in the house can negatively affect comfort and coziness: dampness in the cellar and musty, stale air easily penetrates into the living spaces, and all residents of the house will have to breathe this air. A tightly closed lid or cellar door will not save the situation.

The optimal ventilation scheme for a cellar in a house is shown in the figure. The scheme is suitable for both natural and forced (artificial) ventilation:

• the forced method involves installing a stationary fan; this method is used for air exchange in large-volume vegetable storage facilities. The cellar fan is placed on the exhaust duct;
• For natural ventilation, a fan is also used, but not permanently, but temporarily - installed for several days to dry the storage.

Features of cellar ventilation in the house:

• the supply pipe is laid through the part of the foundation located above the ground, then through the basement of the house;
• the supply pipe must have a minimum number of bends and a minimum length, and must not have narrowings or expansions;
• when installing cellar ventilation in the house, it is necessary to ensure that in winter the supply pipe is not blocked with snow;
• the part of the exhaust pipe located in a cold place must be insulated to prevent condensation;
• The cellar ventilation hood is located inside the wall of the house or in a special ventilation duct, which usually runs along the wall (for example, from the kitchen). In order to collect all the ventilation ducts together, it is better to make a cellar under the kitchen.

How to make ventilation in the cellar of a garage and a private house

Unlike above-ground buildings, basements private houses do not have conditions for ventilation and removal of excess moisture. In order for the vegetables and fruits stored there to remain fresh longer, it is necessary to organize constant air circulation - inflow and exhaust. There is no need to hire specialists to install cellar ventilation, since you can do it yourself once you read our publication.

Basement ventilation methods

There are 2 types of ventilation systems used in basements residential buildings, garages and other sheds:

1. With natural urge. In a vertical channel facing the street, draft occurs due to the difference in heights and temperatures outside and inside the cellar.
2. With compulsion. The movement of air masses is provided by one or more fans.

Reference. IN the right cellar The air temperature throughout the year fluctuates within very narrow limits (from 5 to 12 °C), so it is relatively warm in winter and cool in summer.

For the vast majority of underground storage facilities, natural air exchange is sufficient, even if it has a large area. In winter, indoor air is warmer and lighter than outside, which encourages it to rise through the ventilation duct leading outside. The only condition: the influx must be compensated by exhaust, so that the cold and heavier air mass displaces the heated one, otherwise circulation will not occur.

In the summer, when it is cool in the basement and hot outside, natural draft weakens significantly. And although most of the storage facilities are empty during this period, they need to be prepared for winter - ventilated and dried. We will tell you how to do this further.

It is better to install ventilation ducts at the construction stage

Forced ventilation is expensive and should not be used unless absolutely necessary. This need arises in the following situations:

• for long-term storage of fruits and food that require certain climatic conditions;
• when the basement is used for other purposes, for example as gym or boiler room;
• if the storage facility consists of several rooms where it is necessary to create a different microclimate;
• in summer, when drying is needed, artificial air exchange is organized temporarily.

Air supply unit in vegetable storage

Important point. The air flow forced into the cellar must be heated in winter. Thoughtless installation of a supply or exhaust fan without additional system heating will lead to rapid spoilage of vegetables due to freezing.

Calculation of duct sizes

In order for the ventilation in the cellar to function effectively and at the same time have a minimal effect on the temperature in the room, the diameters of the pipes should be selected correctly. The latter must allow a certain volume of air to pass through, no more, no less. According to generally accepted methodology, the cross-section of the air duct is calculated as follows:

F = L / 3600 x ϑ, where:

· F – section size, expressed in m²

· ϑ – air flow speed in the pipe, m/s;

· L – required amount of air, m³/h.

Now, in order. With natural and forced ventilation, the flow moves through channels with at different speeds. In the first case it is 0.5-1 m/s, in the second it can reach 8 m/s. To calculate natural draft, enter the value 0.5 m/s in the formula.

To correctly determine the value of L, you need to calculate the volume of the basement and multiply it by the air exchange rate (a number indicating how many times in 1 hour you need to update air environment premises). For storing vegetables, the multiplicity rate is 2, which means that for a cellar measuring 3 x 2 x 2 m you will need 12 x 2 = 24 m³ of fresh inflow per hour. If we count further according to this example, we get the cross section:

24 / 3600 x 0.5 = 0.013 m².

Using the formula for the area of ​​a circle, we determine the diameter of the channel; in our example it is 0.13 m or 130 mm. We select a pipe from the assortment, the nearest one is 150 mm (you need to take a larger size, not a smaller one).

When it is necessary to ventilate a basement with mechanical ventilation, air ducts are calculated using the same method. The optimal speed of movement is 8 m/s, and the need L is taken according to the purpose of the room. For example, the exchange rate for a gym is 3, then the inflow value in a basement of 5 x 10 x 3 m is equal to 150 x 3 = 450 m³/h. The fan performance should be the same, and the diameter of the air ducts, due to the high speed, will be the same - 150 mm.

Scheme of forced exhaust using a duct fan

Natural exhaust device

As a rule, hood in the cellar is carried out according to standard scheme with two channels - supply and exhaust. The latter uses inexpensive sewer PVC pipe of the same diameter.

Supply air duct outlet

Air ducts must be installed according to the following rules:

1. The exhaust pipe starts in the upper zone of the vegetable storage, no lower than 20 cm from the ceilings, otherwise the ceiling will “sweat” from below.
2. The top of the exhaust duct rises as high as possible in order to provide good traction. Ideally, the pipe cut should be at roof level.
3. Place the bottom of the supply air duct 30-50 cm above the floor; it is enough to bring the top to the level of the base.
4. If the cellar is a separate structure, then install the channels vertically with a passage through the ceiling, avoiding turns. A similar scheme can be implemented in a garage by running pipelines through the ceilings.
5. Lay air ducts from basements located under a private house or barn with a minimum number of turns. To pass through the wall and bring the channel out, 2 bends are enough.
6. Cover the ends of the pipes from precipitation with metal umbrellas, and additionally cover the supply pipe with a mesh. Since it is low, it is necessary to block the path to the cellar for rodents.

Advice. To prevent condensation from forming inside the exhaust duct and freezing on the walls, insulate it with mineral wool mats 50-70 mm thick, wrapped in roofing felt.

Ventilation with one pipe will work if you organize inflow through the front door

In some cases, ventilation in the garage basement is usually performed with one combined pipe, divided into 2 sections by a longitudinal partition. It serves as both inflow and outlet. This method is not effective, since there is no height difference between the channels. In addition, the holes are located in one place, and not spaced in the corners of the cellar for better circulation. How to arrange proper ventilation under the garage is shown in the video:

Often on the Internet you can find advice on improving natural draft using deflectors - metal attachments on the exhaust air duct. The device shown in the photo below, when blown by wind, creates a vacuum zone around the head of the pipe, causing the thrust to increase. The stronger the wind blows, the more air the deflector helps suck out of the basement. But for winter period This is not a very good solution and here's why:

• In order for the deflector to function normally, it must be removed from the leeward zone, that is, raised above the roof;
• how much air goes out, so much will enter through the supply air duct, which is why when severe frost and the wind can freeze all supplies;
• If you try to regulate the air flow with a damper, you will have to adjust it every time the weather changes.

More information about natural ventilation of cellars is described in the following video:

Dehumidification of basement rooms

The cellar must be prepared annually for the winter season - thoroughly ventilated and dried. There are several ways to get rid of moisture and musty odors:

1. The simplest remedy is to open the door or hatch to the basement and ventilate it before the cold weather sets in.
2. In the summer, when natural exhaust weakens, temporary installation of a deflector helps solve the problem.
3. A fan attached to the lower end of the exhaust pipe allows you to quickly and thoroughly dry the room.
4. A folk remedy is a lit candle placed under the exhaust duct. By heating the air around it, the flame initiates an increase in natural draft.
5. Place a wood-burning stove in the cellar or bring in a brazier with smoldering coals.

Gives a good effect electric heaters – heat guns and convectors. But since it will take 2-3 days to drain the basement, such devices will have time to cost you a decent amount for electricity.

Conclusion

From the above, the conclusion suggests itself: the best option for cellar ventilation is natural exhaust and supply, installed with your own hands. If done correctly, your basement storage area will remain dry and warm throughout the winter, which is exactly what your food supplies need. The costs are minimal: you only need pipes, any kind - PVC, asbestos cement, galvanized metal, and so on. The main thing is that their diameter is close to the calculated one.

A structure such as a cellar is often installed in a country house, under a house or outbuilding. The cellar is used for storing fresh food and preservation, and for it to work effectively, the correct microclimate must be created in it. An important element its provision is an exhaust hood in the cellar: how to do ventilation correctly can be learned from numerous instructions and thematic videos. Ventilation can be natural or forced.

There are several options for providing a microclimate in a storage facility using ventilation. Air circulation can occur naturally, or perhaps with the help of special fans. In addition, the ventilation system can be equipped with additional devices that will increase the efficiency of its operation.

The main element of any ventilation system is pipes. There are usually two of them:

1. Exhaust pipe - air exits the room through it. It is mounted in top corner basement, and it should protrude above the ridge by about 0.5 m. Condensation can accumulate in the exhaust pipe, so it must be additionally insulated using mineral wool or other materials.
2. Supply pipe - serves to bring fresh air into the storage, mounted in the corner opposite from the exhaust pipe. The opening of the supply pipe should be located approximately 40-60 cm from the cellar floor, and its outer end should be significantly raised above ground level.

In addition to pipes, when arranging an air ventilation system, dampers, fans, deflectors, as well as special climatic equipment, if necessary.

Natural ventilation

The most in a simple way provide in the basement optimal temperature and the flow of fresh air is the installation of natural ventilation.

By arranging proper ventilation of the cellar naturally, you will receive the following benefits:

1. Low cost of construction. When installing natural ventilation, you only spend money on Construction Materials, of which she does not need so much.
2. The possibility of installing the system not only during the construction of the basement, but also after its completion.
3. Easy to install. It does not take a lot of time and effort to create a natural air circulation system in an underground storage facility.

The disadvantages of such a ventilation system in the cellar include the fact that with its help it will not be possible to clearly regulate the temperature regime. In addition, if the temperature outside is the same as in the basement, then air circulation simply will not occur.

Helpful advice! If the products in storage need a certain temperature conditions, then it is better to use a forced ventilation system. It will allow you to precisely regulate the microclimate in the basement.

Installation of a natural ventilation system

In order for the air in the basement to circulate naturally, you will need two pipes. The material of the pipes can be different; recently, PVC pipes are often used - they are inexpensive, lightweight and durable. Also, ventilation pipes can be metal, plastic and even reinforced concrete. The cross-section of the pipes is selected depending on the storage volume. For example, the optimal cross-section of a ventilation pipe in a basement with an area of ​​6-8 m² is 120x120 mm.

If you are going to make a hood in a cellar with one pipe, then its cross-section should be larger. For example, for the same basement of 6-8 m² it starts from 150 mm. Using only one pipe is possible in cases with small storage facilities. With this design option, two channels are located in one pipe - supply and exhaust. Each of them is equipped with its own damper, with the help of which the intensity of air inflow and outflow is regulated.

When installing a natural hood in a cellar with your own hands, you need to take into account a number of nuances:

• the higher the exhaust pipe opening is located, the greater the efficiency of air circulation in the system;
• external pipe outlets must be covered with special canopies, otherwise rainwater or snow will get into them;

• the fewer turns and bends the pipes have, the better the ventilation will be;
• both pipes must be the same diameter.

Natural ventilation for small storage areas is a simple and effective option for cellar hoods. How to make the same efficient system for a large storage facility? In this case, you cannot do without forced air injection.

Installation of forced ventilation of a cellar with two pipes and one

As a rule, a forced air circulation system is installed in two cases. The first of these is the presence of a large storage area of ​​over 40 m². The second option is a basement, which is used not for storing food, but as a gym, game room or other similar room.

In both cases, installing a forced-type ventilation system will not only ensure air flow and maintain the set temperature, but will also get rid of excess humidity and dampness. The last point is very important if sports or other expensive equipment is installed in the basement.

Automatic type

Unlike natural, the forced ventilation system in the cellar is characterized by the following advantages:

1. Air circulation does not depend on the temperature difference in the basement and outside.
2. It is possible not only to cool, but also to heat the air in the room, as well as filter it.
3. Using special devices, you can easily regulate the intensity of air circulation.

The disadvantages of this option include the need for regular maintenance, more complex compared to natural system installation, as well as the high cost of components. In addition, the operation of the forced system depends on the availability of electrical power, which means that you will have to install additional wiring. And if there is a power outage, the system will stop functioning altogether.

Options for arranging a forced ventilation system

There are several types of system forced circulation air in underground storage. The first of them involves the use of electric fans.

Helpful advice! If you decide to use fans, be sure to take care of protecting them from moisture and other adverse influences that affect equipment underground.

When installing forced ventilation in the cellar, there can be two or one fans. One fan is mounted on the exhaust pipe on the storage side, and the air should be blown out with its help. Two fans are an option for large rooms. In this case, the second one is placed in the supply pipe and serves to pump air into the storage.

Fans can operate in several modes, so you can control the inflow and outflow of air and maintain the required temperature in the basement. Power supply can be supplied from the main electrical network if the basement is located under residential building or garage, as well as from a separate electric generator.

If you are installing forced ventilation in a cellar under the house, then providing power to the fans will be easier than in a separate underground storage facility. In the latter case, the wiring and equipment must be additionally insulated from moisture.

The second version of the forced system involves the use of wind energy instead of electric energy. For this purpose, it is mounted on the exhaust pipe special device– a deflector that catches air currents and transfers energy to the fans. It’s worth taking a closer look at the deflector.

Deflector for ventilation in the cellar: how to make a device with your own hands

The principle of operation of the deflector is that air flows, dissecting against the diffuser, create increased draft in the ventilation pipe, due to which air circulation occurs. The use of deflectors allows you to save on electricity and also increase the efficiency of the forced ventilation system. In addition, this design can be successfully used in a natural type system.

There are several types of deflectors. Let's look at the most popular of them.

ASTATO– a deflector that can be powered by an electric motor or by the wind. The design of the device implies the presence of a special sensor that automatically turns off mechanical traction with sufficient wind strength. This version of the device is advantageous to use in cases where the wind force is not always enough to ensure normal air circulation. The electric motor in such models is quite economical, so you don’t have to worry about excessive energy consumption.

– rotates solely due to the force of the wind, good because it can adapt to any direction of air flow. The disadvantages include the fact that the bearings included in the structure require regular lubrication and periodic replacement. In addition, if you use such a deflector in a cellar ventilation scheme, then keep in mind that when low temperatures its mechanism may freeze.

Static deflector– a relatively new model, which is characterized by the presence of an ejector fan. At a relatively high cost, it has such advantages as reduced level noise during operation, high efficiency, removal of moisture from the system.

Rotary turbine– installed in areas with stable strong winds, so this design is not very popular.

In addition, there are spherical and H-shaped deflectors, Grigorovich deflectors and other options. The choice of model depends on the characteristics of the ventilation system and the area in which the basement is located.

Helpful advice! The Grigorovich deflector is considered the easiest to manufacture, therefore, if you are installing a conventional supply and exhaust ventilation system, it is best to use it.

Making a deflector with your own hands

This device is most often made of galvanized or of stainless steel, and also made of plastic. Plastic models are cheaper than their steel counterparts and look more attractive, but cannot boast of durability. In addition, plastic deflectors are very sensitive to high temperatures, therefore, you should not install them if the ventilation system combines the functions of a chimney.

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of the deflector, it is necessary to calculate its parameters. The height of the deflector is calculated by the formula: H = 1.7xD, in which D is the diameter of the ventilation pipe. The width of the hood is equal to the diameter multiplied by 1.8, and the width of the diffuser is the diameter multiplied by 1.3.

Do-it-yourself drawings of the ventilation deflector are made on cardboard or thick paper, after which parts from metal or plastic are cut out from them. To work you will need the following tools and materials:

• paper or cardboard for drawings;
• metal scissors for cutting out parts;
• sheet of metal or plastic;
• marker or construction pencil;
• drill with drills of different diameters.

1. The contours of the product are transferred from the drawing to the sheet of metal. This includes the development of the hood, outer cylinder, struts and diffuser.
2. These parts are cut out using metal scissors.
3. The parts are connected to each other using a rivet gun.
4. The finished deflector is installed on the head of the pipe and secured with clamps.

When installing ventilation in the cellar, installing the deflector is a very important moment. It is best to install the device with two people, since work is usually carried out at heights. First, the lower cylinder of the structure is fixed at the outlet of the ventilation pipe. This is done using clamps or special bolts with dowels. After this, a diffuser is attached to the cylinder, on top of which a protective cap is installed. It is recommended to additionally treat the places where parts are connected using bolts with a special anti-corrosion compound.

In the diagram of the hood in the cellar, the deflector occupies a very important place, so special attention must be paid to its assembly and installation.

How to properly ventilate a cellar with high humidity, drain the cellar

There are situations when a storage facility is built in an area characterized by a high level of groundwater or a climate with high humidity. A high moisture content in the air can negatively affect the condition of products stored in the cellar.

In addition, with a cellar ventilation system with one pipe, moisture often condenses on its walls, and freezes in the cold season. Thus, it can freeze in several layers and completely clog vent. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to install a forced ventilation system with enhanced exhaust.

With the help of forced exhaust, you can significantly reduce humidity in any type. How to make it dry even enough large room? To do this, it is necessary to use not only a ventilation system, but also to pre-dry the cellar. To do this, before installing ventilation in the cellar, you need to remove all the food from it with your own hands, and then carry out drying work.

There are several ways to drain a cellar:

1. Using an iron stove or brazier, a brazier or a bucket of coals is lowered into the basement, and the fire is maintained until the room becomes dry enough. Before starting such drying in the cellar, it is necessary to open the door and other openings. It is best to start a fire using sawdust or chips, and if necessary, the operation can be repeated several times.
2. Using a candle - the candle is installed under the hood in the cellar. Proper Use This method implies a small cellar size, otherwise it will not be effective enough. Drying a basement with a candle is easier than using a Dutch oven, but it also takes longer. As a rule, this takes several days, during which the candles will have to be changed regularly.
3. Using a special one - a good option for storage big size, allows you to quickly get rid of humidity in the room. You can use a dehumidifier in addition to a conventional supply and exhaust ventilation system if moisture often accumulates in the cellar.

Choose suitable option The amount of drainage you need to drain your basement depends on its size, as well as the time and resources you have. Installing an effective ventilation system will allow you to do this less often, but even the most high-quality ventilation, if during the construction of the premises it was not waterproofed.

Controlling the microclimate in the basement using a ventilation system

There are several options for making your cellar colder different types. You can initially dig a hole at a greater depth, you can pay more attention to thermal insulation, or you can use special microclimate control systems. There are two types of ventilation systems based on the type of temperature control:

1. Automatic – works in autonomous mode. Such a system contains special sensors that monitor the temperature in the cellar and turn off and turn on the fans when it needs to be lowered or raised. The main elements of such a system are different variants thermostats for the cellar, which can be purchased in specialized stores.
2. Mechanical - works with the direct participation of a person who monitors the level of temperature and humidity in the storage. In such a system, the intensity of the fans, as well as the position of the dampers on the supply and exhaust pipes, are adjusted manually.

Helpful advice! When choosing the type of ventilation system, be guided by how precisely the temperature will need to be maintained. If permissible deviations are more than two degrees, then a mechanical system is suitable. Otherwise, it is better to give preference to automatic microclimate control.

Materials for the manufacture of the ventilation system

DIY cellar ventilation schemes involve the use of various types of pipes. Today, the most popular of them are asbestos cement and low-density polyethylene.

Asbestos-cement ventilation pipes look similar to slate, which is why they are also called slate. They are characterized by a high level of strength and reliability, as well as durability and corrosion resistance. They are sold in long lengths, so the ventilation system can be made from entire parts of pipes. Polyethylene pipes will most likely have to be welded together, this will require special tools and skills.

Less commonly, metal pipes are used for the air circulation system. They are quite cheap and easy to install, but the metal is susceptible to corrosion and rots quite quickly in the ground. To prevent this from happening, before burying metal pipes in the ground, they can be coated with a layer of anti-corrosion enamel or additionally protected from moisture using waterproofing materials. In addition, moisture condenses on a metal surface more strongly than on a plastic one, so it is better to use them in combination with compulsory system ventilation in the cellar. How to make a proper exhaust hood metal pipes? This is best done for storage under a house or garage.

When using any material, the openings of the exhaust and supply pipes must be protected from moisture and debris. To do this, they are equipped with a special cap and grille, which can be made of any materials.

Types of fans for forced ventilation systems

To ensure that air circulates properly in the cellar, you can use several different types of fans. Based on their operating principle and location, they are divided into axial and axial.

Duct fan characterized by an average level of performance and can be installed anywhere in the ventilation pipe. In addition, it consumes little electricity, so this option is good for saving Money. The most effective are considered duct fans amplitude type.

Axial fans installed near exhaust or supply openings. They are more demanding in terms of electricity, but also provide more powerful air flow. Complete with the fan, a special valve is installed on the output pipe of the system, which prevents cold air from entering the room.

Exhaust hood in the cellar: how to do ventilation correctly, assembling the system and checking its functionality

Once you have decided on the type of air circulation system, selected the type of pipes and fans, made or purchased a deflector, dampers and other components, you can begin installing the hood. This is done in the following order:

1. If you are installing a ventilation system after the storage facility has been built, then a hole for the ventilation pipe is drilled in its ceiling.
2. An exhaust pipe is installed in the hole under the ceiling. On the street, its end should be raised above the surface by no less than 15 cm.
3. A hole is drilled in the wall opposite the exhaust hole near the floor. It should be located no lower than 2 cm, but no higher than 5 cm.
4. A supply pipe is installed in the hole. From the outside of the cellar, its opening should be located too high, since there must be a pressure difference between the supply and exhaust openings to create natural draft. This is more relevant for a natural air circulation system, but it also makes sense for a forced one.
5. The end of the supply pipe on the street is closed with a deflector or a special protective grille.
6. Inside the cellar, special dampers are installed on the pipe; adjusting the gap will allow you to adjust the intensity of air circulation in the system.

After the system is installed, it is necessary to check the efficiency of the hood in the cellar. How to do this correctly using improvised means? To do this, you can bring a sheet of paper to the opening of the supply pipe. If it fluctuates, it means the system is working properly. Another test option is to use lit paper or another source of smoke. The smoke should quickly dissipate and be drawn out of the basement.

Regardless of what type of basement air circulation system you choose, there are a number of general points to consider during installation:

• It is best to install a ventilation system at the construction stage of the storage facility. In this case, it is necessary to leave special channels in the walls into which ventilation pipes will subsequently be installed. This way you will save not only time and effort, but also financial resources. The ventilation scheme should be immediately included in the basement design;
• How to make cellar ventilation in a private house uniform? To do this, it is worth using supply and exhaust pipes of the same diameter. If the basement is characterized by high air humidity, then the diameter of the exhaust pipe may be slightly larger. Remember that the supply pipe should in no case be larger than the exhaust pipe, as this will cause air to become trapped inside the storage facility, which can lead not only to food spoilage, but also to increased gas pollution in the room. The last point is dangerous to human health;
• The supply and exhaust pipes must not be placed next to each other. This will lead to low efficiency of the entire system. It is best if the holes are located on opposite walls of the basement;
• if the cellar is located under an outbuilding, then the role of the exhaust pipe can be played by the entrance hatch or door;

• Plastic sewer pipes can be used as ventilation ducts. They are characterized by a suitable diameter and are relatively inexpensive;
• the part of the exhaust pipe that is located outside the cellar must be properly insulated. Otherwise, condensation may form on its inner surface during the cold season, which, when frozen, can clog the exhaust hole.

Helpful advice! Pipes can be insulated to prevent condensation from forming on them not only in the part where they come to the surface, but along their entire length.

There are many options for how to make ventilation in the cellar with your own hands. various types. You can use one or two pipes for this, arrange natural or forced air circulation, install fans, deflectors, temperature control systems and climate sensors.

The efficiency of the ventilation system directly affects the shelf life of products, as well as health, if we are talking about a gym or other frequently visited premises. It is best to include the hood diagram directly into the storage plan, so you will spend less time on its installation and will be able to use the basement immediately after its construction is completed.

The ventilation system is one of the main communications of a residential building. Thanks to a properly designed ventilation system, there is constant air circulation in the room, which eliminates the possibility of unpleasant odors, stagnant air and other inconveniences.

Find out in this article how to properly design ventilation for a home, how the system is installed, and what pipe should be used for this.

Why air circulation is so important

Each house usually has several types of ventilation:

• ventilation of residential premises;
• ventilation of the under-roof space;
• outlet of the drain pipe from the sewer system.

To ensure the movement of air masses, draft is required. To create a draft of the required force, you need to carefully calculate many factors, take into account the type of room, the material of the walls and roof, the presence of insulation and waterproofing. However, the main factor in calculating draft is the installation location of the ventilation duct and the outlet of the pipe to the roof.

If you violate the installation rules ventilation shafts and channels, all efforts to install them can be nullified. The consequences of this will be sad:

1. Lack of traction or too little traction.
2. The emergence of unpleasant odors from the bathroom or kitchen in living rooms.
3. The smell of sewage spreading throughout the entire area of ​​the house.
4. Wetting of walls and ceilings due to high humidity air.
5. The appearance of mold and mildew, which can cause serious lung diseases.
6. Stuffiness in the house and lack of oxygen.
7. Freezing of ventilation structures.
8. Soot and fumes in the kitchen while cooking.

Important! Fixing problems with the ventilation system is much more difficult than designing the exact design during the construction phase of the house. Therefore, all ventilation calculations must be carried out with extreme care.

Selection of material for ventilation and its components

Ventilation pipes, in principle, can consist of any material. The main requirement for it is moisture resistance, and therefore resistance to corrosion. This is necessary because in the cold season condensation will accumulate on the walls of the channel. Among other things, the following indicators are considered important:

• thin pipe walls, providing high penetrating ability of the shafts;
• the smooth surface of pipes and channels will reduce resistance, and therefore increase the throughput of the system;
• a minimum of joints and roughness on the pipes are responsible for better air circulation in the system;
• The low weight of the system facilitates its installation and operation.

If you need to decide which ventilation pipes to install on the roof and inside the house, it will be useful to know that the cheapest option is galvanized steel piping. There are also options such as:

• stainless steel;
• plastic;
• aluminum;
• polyester pipes.

Attention! The shape of the ventilation pipes can be any: square, round or other cross-section.

When the ventilation system is designed and the pipes are laid inside the walls, you can proceed to the most important stage - bringing the pipeline to the roof.

Rules for installing roof ventilation

An important factor when installing ventilation is the type of roof; the height of the pipe, its diameter, and the angle of inclination largely depend on this. A few more points that ventilation designers pay attention to:

• slope length;
• the presence of a ridge beam in the rafter system;
• roofing material;
• arrangement of layers of the “roofing cake”;
• location of the chimney, hot water supply or heating pipes.

Advice! Despite the requirements for pipe material, very often the ventilation of private houses is made of brick. Unlike galvanized metal, brick is not charged with static electricity, so it does not attract dust and debris.

1. The diameter of the pipe must be at least 14x14 cm.
2. The length of the pipe is at least three meters.
3. If the pipe has a cross-section of 14x27 cm, then its length must be at least two meters.
4. Above a flat roof, the ventilation pipe should rise at least 50 cm.
5. If ventilation is installed at the ridge level, there should be no ridge beam, and the height of the pipe should be at least 50 cm.
6. If there is a distance of more than two meters from the ridge to the ventilation, the height of the pipe should be at the level of the ridge or more.
7. If the slope is long, the pipe comes out of the roof at a distance of more than three meters from the ridge, then its height should correspond to the top point of the ridge, the pipe itself is located at an angle of 10 degrees from the vertical.
8. It is better to insulate ventilation pipes with mineral wool, foam plastic or other insulating material.

Installation of a ventilation pipe on the roof

The list of necessary tools, as well as the method of installing the pipe, largely depends on the roofing material. For example, ventilation is installed on a metal roof.

In this case you will need:

• jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• chisel;
• metal scissors;
• building level;
• insulation;
• marking marker;
• screwdrivers;
• self-tapping screws;
• sealant;
• sealing gaskets;
• passage unit assembly.

Armed with the necessary tools and devices, you can get to work.

First of all, determine the location of the ventilation pipe. For this stage, you must be guided by the rules set out in the previous paragraph and SNiP norms.

Use a marker to mark the roofing material. To do this, use a template, which should be included with the ventilation passage unit.

A hole is made in the roofing material along the intended contour. To do this, use any suitable specific situation tools: jigsaw, chisel, metal scissors, etc.

In accordance with the size and shape of the resulting hole, it is transferred to all layers of the “roofing pie”. As a rule, the following devices are used in modern roofs: vapor barrier, insulation,.

In accordance with the markings indicated on the template, they are transferred to the roofing material.

The roof at the installation site is cleared of debris, metal filings and other things, then degreased.

For each self-tapping screw, you need to drill a hole of the appropriate diameter.

The sealing rubber is treated on the reverse side with sealant and pressed against the edges of the hole for the pipe. If installed correctly, excess sealant should be squeezed out from under the gasket.

The ventilation passage element is “planted” on sealing gum and fasten with self-tapping screws.

Using screws, a ventilation pipe is attached to the passage element, which is subsequently equipped with umbrellas, drips, and deflectors.

Possible problems during installation work and operation of the ventilation system

Most common problem the ventilation system is not strong enough, as a result of which normal air circulation in the room is disrupted. Dealing with this problem is quite difficult; it is more correct to take care of all possible nuances at the stage of design and assembly of the system.

Advice! If the house is already in use and the ventilation draft is insufficient, deflectors can help. These devices are installed at the beginning or end of the pipe, which rises above the roof.

They operate under the influence of wind and artificial separation of air masses using special diffusers. Deflectors enhance natural draft.

As you know, traction force is directly related to the temperature difference between inside and outside the house. It is for this reason that ventilation works incomparably better in winter than in summer heat. The only thing that can break this rule is freezing of the ventilation system. To prevent condensate from freezing on the pipe walls, it must be insulated. To do this, use any soft insulation, for example, mineral wool or basalt.

A very effective option is to lay ventilation ducts in close proximity to the chimney, heating system or hot water supply. These systems only work in cold weather, just when heating the ventilation pipes is needed.

The problem in this case may be the temperature difference in several ventilation ducts in the case when there are more than two of them installed on one roof. With such an installation, when one pipe heats up and the rest freezes, the air circulation in the house can be significantly disrupted. All this needs to be calculated at the design stage.

Another problem may be the insufficient smoothness of the inner surface of the ventilation pipes. This leads to an increase in resistance, as a result of which air masses pass through the pipes more slowly, but condensation on their walls lingers for a long time.

You can reduce resistance by choosing a suitable material for ventilation with a perfectly smooth surface. All connections and joints of pipes must be made, smoothing the edges as much as possible.

In order to prevent debris, leaves and rainwater from entering the ventilation pipe, the outlets of the ventilation shafts are covered with special umbrellas. To ensure timely drainage of water from these structures, they are equipped with drips.

In addition to the standard ventilation system, aerators must be installed on the roof. These devices are designed to create a circulating air flow in the under-roof space. This will help prevent condensation from accumulating on the insulation or ceiling of the attic. For proper installation of aerators, it is necessary to provide for the creation of sheathing and the presence of sufficient air flow on the roof for their operation.

Attention! Aerators are mounted on a roof whose slope length exceeds three meters. With such a scale, natural ventilation through the ridge and eaves zones is not enough.

Only a competent approach and extreme care during installation and assembly work will help create an ideal ventilation system. And this is very important, because without sufficient quantity Without fresh air, neither the house itself nor the people inside will feel comfortable.