Laying parquet on wooden floors. High-quality selection and independent installation of parquet boards: rules and nuances. Rules for laying parquet boards

Parquet boards have been used as flooring for over 70 years. The board is a combined three-layer material. To make the top layer, valuable wood is used (oak, beech, cherry, walnut and others), its thickness is 0.5-6 mm. The second layer consists of perpendicularly laid lamellas made of cheaper wood (pine, spruce and others), thickness ranging from 8-10 mm.

It is in the middle layer that a groove and tenon are cut, a locking connection is made, or an end clamp is installed for installing the floor. The third layer is laid perpendicular to the previous one, made from inexpensive wood and has a thickness of 1-2 mm.

Thanks to this structure, high strength, elasticity and moisture resistance of the material are achieved, and the combination different varieties wood allows you to get high quality natural coating By affordable price. Often parquet boards are used as a cheaper alternative.

Choosing a parquet board

There are several important factors that affect the service life of the floor, its quality and other characteristics.

  1. Top layer thickness. The service life directly depends on this indicator parquet board, since over time the surface wears out, scratches and other physical damage may occur, which, in turn, causes grinding. The greater the thickness of the top layer, the greater the number of processing cycles the coating can withstand without losing its performance properties.
  2. Overall thickness of the board. The thickness range of parquet boards is between 7-25 mm; in residential premises it is advisable to lay parquet boards with a thickness of 13 mm and above. For laying on a concrete screed, it is preferable to choose a 22-25 mm board; on joists or plywood, a smaller thickness is allowed.
  3. Type of wood and quality of processing. High quality board must be carefully polished; if the slightest roughness, unevenness or other defects are detected, it is better to refuse the purchase. It is also worth paying attention to the type of wood used to make the top layer. Depending on the type of wood, the hardness of the coating, its moisture resistance and resistance to temperature changes may differ. When choosing, you need to take into account the conditions in a particular room: humidity level, temperature, expected loads.
  4. Appearance, dimensions and design. Standard dimensions the boards are within the range: 1.7-2.5 m in length and 13-20 mm in width. The top sheet can consist of either a single solid piece of wood or several tightly fitted lamellas that imitate a stacked package; they can be one-, two-, three- and four-strip. Depending on the method of cutting the wood, the surface pattern may differ. When cut radially, the fibers of the board are parallel to the annual rings of the tree trunk, the texture of the coating is uniform along the entire length of the board. With the tangential cutting method, the surface has an original and interesting drawing due to contact with annual rings, however specifications such a board is slightly lower. A mixed method (rustic) is also used, in which the cutting line includes sections of wood with a different structure. Some types of wood undergo heat treatment, which provides greater strength and resistance to fading.
  5. Quality of locks. The absence of damage, chips, as well as high-quality processing of the joints will ensure simple and reliable installation parquet board.
  6. Type and properties of coating. If the surface of the board is , it is worth asking about the number of layers applied - the wear resistance of the material, its durability and service life until the first cosmetic repairs. Parquet oil is made on the basis beeswax, natural vegetable oil or synthetic analogues. This coating allows air penetration and allows the wood to “breathe” but requires more careful daily maintenance.

Please note that the correct type of wood will help avoid drying out and cracking under the influence of high temperature or deformation in conditions high humidity. In particular, it is not advisable to use beech coverings in rooms with humidity above 60% (with the exception of beech that has undergone special heat treatment).

Tools and conditions for installation

One of the advantages of laying parquet boards is its fairly simple installation without the use of special equipment. Kit necessary tools and accessories includes:

  • plumb and level;
  • tape measure (folding meter or measuring bar) and square;
  • pencil for marking;
  • a finishing beam or plank for tightly connecting boards, as well as a finishing crutch for working near the wall;
  • hammer;
  • fine-toothed saw or hacksaw for wood;
  • jigsaw;
  • sharpened knife;
  • wooden wedges;
  • drill (preferably with cutting attachments) round holes for pipes and other communications);
  • PVA glue;
  • vacuum cleaner or broom.

Before doing this, you should make sure that the relative humidity in the room is in the range of 40-60%, and the air temperature is in the range from +18°C to +24°C.

It is advisable to leave the purchased material in the package indoors for 2-3 days for “acclimatization.” If installation is carried out in a newly built building, it is advisable to ventilate and heat it well for a month (installation of parquet boards in unheated rooms is not recommended).

Floor installation is carried out after completion of the rest repair work.

Preparing the base

Laying parquet boards can be done on Various types foundations depending on the type of construction. The base must be dry, protected from moisture and as level as possible.

So, in multi-apartment panel buildings or brick houses the reinforced concrete floor serves as the basis, in buildings old building ceilings can be made of lightweight metal or wood load-bearing beams, and in private houses and cottages the basis can be special supports installed directly on the ground.

In case of installation on a concrete base, it is necessary to carry out. Screeding is carried out only on a dry base. The surface of the screed is treated with a primer. If there is moisture in concrete floor it is necessary to carry out additional waterproofing work.

Installation work finishing coating are made only after completely dry screeds, no earlier than 28 days after pouring. When leveling the base using joists and plywood sheets, the space between the joists is filled with mineral wool, and the sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.

When laying on a subfloor, metal or wooden floors, heat and waterproofing is carried out using polyethylene film, polyurethane, mineral wool or other materials.

Methods for laying parquet boards

There are two main methods of laying parquet boards: “floating” (in this case, the boards are fastened together, but not attached to the base) and glued (the boards are fixed both to each other and to the base using glue). You can determine whether a parquet board is needed based on the installation method used.

"Floating" method

Most manufacturers produce boards equipped with a locking joint, which eliminates the need for glue. The groove-lock connection can withstand heavy loads, is durable and resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.

Laying parquet boards on a screed without plywood involves the use of a backing that provides additional noise and waterproofing. The backing can be made from cork or synthetic materials, its thickness should not exceed 2-3 mm, otherwise the floor will deform under load. The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Using a vacuum cleaner, remove all debris and dust from the surface of the screed.
  2. A layer of waterproofing (polyethylene film) is laid and, if necessary,. You can determine what is best to lay under the parquet board based on the requirements for a particular room. The joints are sealed.
  3. The room is measured and selected required quantity material, technical holes for pipes and other communications are pre-drilled in the parquet board.
  4. The first board is placed with a tenon in the direction of the long wall, using a wooden wedge to ensure a gap of 8-10 mm. The gap is needed to compensate for the expansion of the floor under the influence of temperature changes.
  5. The second board is installed at an angle of 25-30° relative to the first; when lowered, the lock snaps into place. Using a finishing beam and a hammer, carefully so as not to damage the lock, additional sealing of the connection is made. Subsequent boards are also added.
  6. When reaching the end wall, the board is cut to required length using a jigsaw or hacksaw. The cutting area should be located in the direction of the wall - upon completion of the work it will be covered with a plinth.
  7. A plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

This installation method has a number of advantages. The room is ready for use immediately after completion of the work, the coating is easily repaired (in case of damage, individual parts can be replaced without removing the entire floor), it is possible to dismantle and reuse the material.

Disadvantages include limitations on room area (no more than 50 m²), produces more noise when walking, and more complex processing using a grinding machine.

Glue method

The technology of laying parquet boards on plywood or OSB (oriented strand board) using glue is quite simple. Laying is done from the far corner of the room in relation to the entrance doors.

Unlike the “floating” method, gluing requires a perfectly flat surface without the slightest irregularities. Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor can only be done after careful scraping and sanding.

Two-component polyurethane adhesive has the best characteristics for gluing parquet boards. Gluing is done both to the base and along the entire perimeter of the board (both along the length and width). For additional fixation, nails or screws connecting the lower part can be used lock connection with plywood base.

When using the adhesive installation method, you must adhere to the following rules:

  • the room temperature must be at least 18°C;
  • moisture resistant plywood or OSB board rigidly fixed;
  • screed humidity is not higher than 12%;
  • air humidity is within 40-60%.

Walking on the floor surface is allowed only after it has completely dried. Glue method fastening provides greater rigidity of the floor compared to a “floating” one and produces less noise when walking on it. At the same time, such a floor is more difficult to repair and dismantle.

The diagonal laying method is quite widespread. This floor is also from the corner of the room, having previously cut the end at an angle of 45°. In this case, the floor design will be more original, but the complexity of installation will increase significantly and the amount of waste will increase (up to 10% of the material).

Laying parquet boards over a heated floor system has some special features. Before laying parquet boards on a heated floor, the system is heated at 2/3 power for 10-14 days, regardless of the time of year.

Before installation, the temperature should be reduced to 17-18°C, increasing to the operating level is carried out gradually over several days after installation. During operation, the temperature of the parquet board should not exceed 27°C, and daily fluctuations should be within 5°C.

Among modern coatings which are intended for flooring parquet boards stands on high place. When ennobling such finishing material acquires premises beautiful view, and this speaks of the good taste of the owner. Previously, parquet was an expensive material and its installation also required experience and skills. But, with the development of new technologies, all processes have become easier. This kind of work for this moment you can do it yourself. It is enough to know how to use the tool and study the installation instructions well.

The most important factor in this process is the choice high-quality coating– wood. It is better not to chase cheap material, but to opt for a well and properly dried coating with good geometry. Another important factor is the quality of the adhesive composition. It would be good to give preference to an already proven option, so as not to spoil the final result.

Preparation for installation

In order to properly prepare the surface for laminate assembly, it is important to decide what type of base will be chosen. The installation technology is the same in all cases, only the base may differ significantly.

If the covering is laid on concrete plates, then it is necessary to level it underneath with concrete or cement-sand screed.

It is not recommended to install laminate flooring on a fresh screed; it must be left for at least a month, and it is best to wait for the surface to dry completely. The degree of drying can be checked. To do this, cut a large square from the laminate and use tape to secure it tightly to the plane. You can also take a regular jar and place it on the floor with the neck down. After the square has been passed for at least 40 hours, it is necessary to disconnect it and check whether condensation has collected. If it is missing, then you can start assembling the parquet board, and if it is, then you should still give it time to dry. You can try to reduce the humidity in the room using some method. Requirements for the screed:

  • It is better if the residual humidity reaches no more than 5%;
  • Differences on the surface should not exceed 2 mm;
  • With high humidity, wait until the norm is normal;

At this stage it is necessary to have laser level and a moisture meter to determine residual moisture or use the advice above.

When preparing the base for the laminate, regardless of what material will be used, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer.

To do this, you will need roofing felt, ordinary but dense polyethylene, or a waterproofing film specially made for this purpose. The prepared strips of this material should be laid on a concrete base with an overlap of 15 or 20 centimeters. The joints can be connected to each other with mastic or tape. If the room is located in such a way that the humidity level is often elevated, experts advise making two layers of insulation: a waterproofing layer, and bitumen mastic. Some cases also require the installation of a layer of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If plywood is used for covering, the insulation should be made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene. If logs are used between them, it is necessary to use a special insulation made of mineral wool.

Plywood is laid to concrete with screws and dowels. But, before this, you first need to drill holes of the appropriate size for them. The plywood must be attached from the middle of the sheet.

Before laying the laminate flooring, you need to secure the plywood sheet in approximately 32 places. Its thickness should be at least 2 centimeters. During fixation, it is important to ensure that the seams are not staggered.

If there are beams on the surface, before laying the parquet board, you should make a subfloor. If the beams are far from each other, it is necessary to install logs. The distance between the logs should be approximately 50-60 centimeters.

The timber that will be used for logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. But, if they are made of larch beams, you can refuse this process. This material is of very high quality and does not rot. It needs to be placed on a special cork pad to provide sound insulation and roofing material to perform waterproofing. This material must be laid out around the entire perimeter, without gaps.

To lay high-quality parquet, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If you look from the bottom up, you can see such a “parquet cake” consisting of layers:

  • Flooring made of concrete mixture;
  • Waterproofing layer;
  • Self-leveling agent;
  • Primer;
  • Adhesive;
  • Plywood is moisture resistant;
  • Parquet glue;
  • Parquet board.

Not only can it be used as waterproofing plastic film, but also foiled polypropylene reinforced film.

Purchased goods in packages should be opened in advance so that the material can adapt to room temperature. It is better to do this process several weeks before the installation begins, but, as a last resort, 48 hours in advance. Installation of the board is not permissible if concrete screed has a difference of more than 2 cm. But suddenly this situation was discovered and can be corrected by using a self-leveling mixture.

Installation of parquet on a wooden floor

Savings should always be justified. It is important to check before assembling the laminate how much existing wood covering suitable to be used as a basis for subsequent material. It must be durable and withstand certain loads. But how to find out? What conditions apply to rough wood covering?

  • Check the slope of the wooden floorboards, and for two linear meters it should be no more than 2 mm.
  • When walking, the boards should not creak;
  • There are no significant differences;
  • When moving, the boards do not move and are well fixed;
  • Make sure that all boards of the old covering are tongue and groove.

If you have even the slightest doubt, you can ask a professional for advice, and also not take risks, but dismantle the old wooden floor yourself. But, if everything is fine and the coating is suitable, then you can begin preparing the base for installing parquet.

Preliminary work with the base

All boards that move a little must be firmly fixed. Then clean from dust and dirt, as well as grind. After the wooden floor is prepared, it should be treated with an antiseptic. Old wooden boards must be covered with glue and moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is 12 mm, placed on top. It is also important to leave expansion joints about 2 mm between sheets. Then secure the sheets with screws with a distance of 20-25 centimeters between them. Fixation should be carried out so that the screw head extends approximately 3 millimeters into the sheet. To remove defects and irregularities on plywood, you need to sand the surface with a special machine.

There are some rules that must be followed when installing laminate flooring on a wooden surface.

  • All rough work indoors must be completed;
  • When installing, it is important to comply with the established temperature regime, as well as the percentage of humidity;
  • The temperature in the room should not be more than 24 degrees;
  • The humidity in the room is no more than 60%.
  • The humidity of the base on which the parquet will be installed is no more than 6%.

Laying process

Experts give advice on laying laminate flooring: the boards must be assembled in a different direction from the wooden floor; it should be laid transversely or diagonally. The parquet is fixed using an adhesive. It must be applied to the base and the board should be placed so that maximum contact between the segments is achieved. The boards can also be pulled together, if necessary, with wooden wedges. Leave a compensatory gap between the walls and the parquet.

The boards that are located in the first row should be oriented towards the wall with a groove. Place the screws so that after installation they can be hidden by the floor with a plinth. A parquet board with a width of more than 15 centimeters must be front side additionally fix. This step can be performed as a decorative element and drive a self-tapping screw 1 centimeter deep and cover the hole with a colored wooden plug.

How to properly lay parquet boards on joists?

This process does not contain wet or dirty steps and there is no need to cement mortars. This method is practical, since it is possible to lay various wiring, cables or pipes between the joists, and you can also lay an insulating layer.

There is no need to allocate time for drying the screed, which significantly reduces the installation time of the floor covering to less than a month.

Leagues are pieces of dry timber that are pre-coated with an antiseptic. It will serve as excellent protection against harmful effects and the occurrence of fungus and mold, which can shorten the life of the surface.

The logs must be placed so that they are perpendicular to the parquet board and secured to each other. It is important to level them. If there are some unevennesses, they can be corrected by tapping. And then attach special wedges to them.

Instead of regular lags, you can use adjustable ones. They are the same as wooden blocks, only have end-to-end threaded holes, into which plastic stand-up bolts should be screwed, which are firmly fastened to the ceiling. The height of these racks is adjusted with a special key. At this moment, the logs can rise or fall, leveling the surface.

Layers of plywood must be laid on top of the joists. First, the first one, which is attached with self-tapping screws, and then the second one - with glue, and then also with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should not be buried more than 4 mm. Plywood with a total thickness must be at least 20 millimeters. Large sheets can be sawed using even pieces to relieve internal tension. Most upper layer it needs to be sanded and only then should a parquet board be laid on it.

It is possible to install parquet boards on old parquet flooring. This process should only be performed if it is still strong enough and does not creak. In this case, careful grinding is necessary to achieve perfect flat surface parquet It should be led by a drum grinder to remove defects and irregularities. Then the surface must be puttied. For this you can use fine parquet dust, which was obtained during the grinding process and a special liquid.

After the sanding process, the parquet must be varnished three to seven times using a roller.

The first layer is a primer that saturates the pores of the board. Before applying the final coat, the pre-applied varnish must be sanded to remove wood fluff. It rises up from the impact of previous layers of varnish on the wood.

The most the last stage This process involves installing a parquet plinth, which can perfectly mask all the unevenness of the wall, as well as veil wires or cables.

To learn how to lay parquet boards with high quality, we recommend watching this video:

One of the stages of renovation in an apartment is the design or replacement of flooring. There are many materials for this and they are all in demand. Before choosing the most preferable option, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the advantages of all coatings. One of the most popular is parquet. This material is environmentally friendly and harmless to human health.

Parquet in the interior of the room

Attention! Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor is a simple job, but it requires attention and accuracy. In this case, everything will be done at the proper level, guaranteeing the durability of the subsequent service of the floor covering, attractive appearance, and compliance with operational characteristics.

Classification of parquet boards

Professionals divide this material into types, which differ in the number of stripes visible on the surface of the material. Depending on this, the following types of parquet boards are distinguished:

  • Single lane. This type The material is made from a single layer of workpiece; the natural texture of wood is visible on its surface.
  • Two-way. The base of such a board is single, but the top layer is made of two parts.
  • Three-lane. In this case, the board is divided into three stripes.
  • Four-lane. This parquet has four stripes, which looks quite impressive and attractive.

Preparing the floor surface: what should be done?

Regardless of the type of parquet chosen, the floor surface requires mandatory preparation. Only then is it possible to lay the coating. To do this, remove sources of moisture or drafts from the room.

Parquet boards are often laid on a concrete base. In this case, installation is quite simple. Construction level The evenness of the floor is checked, and if defects are detected in the form of drops, protrusions or holes, they are eliminated and leveled.

We allow a difference of no more than 2 mm for every 2 square meters. m. The floor surface must be dry and free of cracks, which could subsequently lead to damage to the laid floor covering. The purchased material is kept for some time in the room in which it will be installed. This will help the parquet board adapt to the temperature conditions of the room and acquire the necessary flexibility.


Preparing and cleaning the surface before installation

On next stage The leveled base is being prepared. The following materials are laid on concrete:

  • waterproofing film;
  • polystyrene or foamed polyethylene;
  • sheets of plywood.

Now you have a wooden floor, which means there will be no problems with subsequent installation. Before you begin styling, heat and waterproofing coatings the subfloor is thoroughly cleaned. Then they lay strips on it along the room. waterproofing film. The strips are laid on top of each other by at least 12 cm. The film is laid on the wall surface to a height of up to 5 cm.

A thermal insulation substrate is laid on the laid waterproofing. In this case, cracks should be excluded. The parts of the material are fixed with adhesive tape or tape. Sheets of plywood or chipboard are laid on the thermal insulation, and subsequently different ways parquet is being laid.

Parquet installation technologies

Professionals highlight several options for laying parquet. It is worth giving preference to a specific one based on the specific characteristics of the room. But first you need to familiarize yourself with the methods and their differences.

"Floating" method of laying parquet boards

The “floating” method is in demand today. In front of it, the concrete base is prepared, including the flooring of thermal and waterproofing material. In this case, the parquet elements are not fixed to the base, only they are fixed to each other. Laying starts from the longest wall, where there is no doorway, towards the window.


"Floating" method of installing parquet boards

Attach parts to adhesive composition or by means of a locking connection. In the first case, the strength of the coating and its elasticity are ensured. But when using boards with special locking grooves, time is saved and installation is much faster. In addition, if necessary, you can dismantle the parquet elements, which is impossible to do when using an adhesive composition.

Laying such parquet boards is simple, and you can do it yourself. To do this, each parquet element is laid with the top lock to the wall surface, maintaining a small gap of a few millimeters into which the wedges are inserted. After the coating is finally laid, they are removed.

Next, lay the next row, which begins with the last element of the previous row. The connection occurs by snapping the locking mechanism until a characteristic click is heard. If latching does not occur, you can knock out the elements. It is not advisable to use a hammer for this, as defects will appear on the surface of the board. For this process It’s better to take a block or rubber mallet.

The “floating” option for laying parquet boards is used in small spaces. Its advantage is the ability to replace one or more damaged elements.

"Non-floating" installation method

The second popular method is the solid or “non-floating” method. In this case, you will have to especially carefully prepare the base for laying parquet. To do this, the concrete floor is cleaned and leveled, then covered with sheets of plywood, the thickness of which should be at least 1 cm. It is better to give preference to sheets with a water-repellent coating.


Glue method laying parquet

Before you start laying plywood, it is cut into sheets with a side length of no more than 1 m. They are laid without gaps, after which the material is thoroughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

This method of fixing parquet boards requires maintaining the room temperature within +20 degrees. Installation occurs as with the “floating” method, with the only difference being that each element is fixed using an adhesive composition to plywood sheet. In addition, glue is applied to the joints between the boards.

When fixing the material, gaps are left between the parquet and the wall. They are subsequently covered with a plinth, before attaching which the protruding waterproofing material.

Installation of parquet boards on a wooden floor

Installation of parquet on wooden floors is also in demand. This method laying is possible when the base is level, without differences. Parquet boards are fixed with nails. A waterproofing film is preliminarily laid under them.


Laying parquet on a wooden plywood floor

Method of laying parquet boards on logs

Another method is laying parquet boards on joists. This method can only be used if the parquet is of sufficient thickness. As logs, beams are used that are laid across the room. Waterproofing material is laid under them.


Laying parquet on joists

The timber is secured to the floor using dowels. The installation of the logs begins by stepping back from the wall by 3-5 cm. The step between the beams should not be more than 40 cm. The evenness of the laid timber is checked by a level, and if necessary, leveling is carried out by placing plates under them. The logs are covered with two layers of waterproof plywood. The seams between the sheets of the top and bottom layers should not match.

Laying parquet is carried out in a standard way, and nails are used as fastening elements, which are driven at an angle into the base of the board. Subsequently, the fastening area is covered with another parquet element. This installation method is considered labor-intensive and is therefore rarely used.

Laying parquet boards diagonally

You can also give preference to diagonal installation. When installing using this method, glue or nails are used for fixation. Laying occurs by marking the board in the middle and cutting off the corners at 45 degrees. Then the element is cut and fitted to the wall. In this case, a gap of several centimeters is also left.

Important! Finally, if the material is not processed in a factory, the parquet board is varnished. This will significantly increase service life. In addition, the varnish coating will give an aesthetic and complete appearance to the floor..


Laying parquet boards diagonally

In general, installing high-quality parquet flooring on wooden floors is in demand. You can give preference to any type of parquet - single-strip, two-, three- or four-strip. Special attention pay attention to the selection color range coverings. As a result, the interior will look attractive and cozy.

There is a huge selection of floor coverings. Parquet boards have an attractive appearance and durability, which has led to the popularity of this material.

Parquet boards require a perfectly flat and very dry base. But wooden floors, especially old ones, rarely meet these criteria. What to do? Read our article.

Parquet board is a ready-to-use multilayer coating consisting of:

  1. Top wear-resistant protective layer: polyurethane, urethane-alkyd varnish, oil, oil-wax or wax treatment.
  2. Array valuable breed wood with a layer of up to 6 mm: beech, oak, maple and many others. Collections from well-known manufacturers include more than 50 designs, including bleached or tinted wood, brushed or artificially aged (rustic).
  3. Base slab up to 9 mm thick made of spliced ​​pine or other coniferous species. Its fibers are located transversely to the top layer, which makes it possible to protect the structure from various deformations and distortions.
  4. Stabilization layer with longitudinally arranged fibers. This helps reduce the stress of the layers and ensures a stable geometry of the planks. Thickness – up to 3 mm.

Thanks to this design, parquet boards, unlike solid wood boards, are not afraid of bending and twisting deformations and are resistant to temperature changes.

Another difference between parquet boards and massive (solid) ones is that there are 4 installation methods: floating, glued, with hardware and on logs. If the base is wooden floors, the first two methods are considered optimal. The table below shows their advantages and disadvantages.

“Floating” (independent of the base) installation method Adhesive installation method
Simple and quick installation. Installation takes time: first you need to apply glue, then remove the excess.
The connection is strong immediately after installation. The connections become strong after the glue has completely dried.
The floor is ready for use after installation is complete. Foot traffic on the floor is permitted 12 hours after installation. Full setting occurs after 1-5 days, depending on the composition of the glue.
It is possible to correct errors during the operation of the floor covering. Correcting defects during installation is problematic, and after completion of the work it is almost impossible.
A standard set of tools is used. In addition to the regular kit, there is a special glue.
Damaged strips can be easily replaced. Replacing damaged boards is difficult.
It is possible to carry out repair work on the foundation. Access to the base is difficult.
Quick dismantling. Difficult dismantling.
The maximum laying area allowed by manufacturers is up to 240 m2. Above - only using transition thresholds (aluminum or plastic). The laying area is not limited.
The design is stable, but due to changes in temperature and humidity it may slightly change its geometric dimensions. The structure is stable.

Rules for laying on a wooden floor

A wooden floor is a capricious base. If all factors are not taken into account, then unpleasant squeaks when walking, uneven surfaces, local swelling and other defects will appear very quickly. Therefore, manufacturers strongly recommend using methodological instructions given on inserts or brochures.

Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor is carried out in 3 stages. The permissible temperature conditions for the installation period are from +18 to +25 ° C, humidity – 30-60%.

Preparing a Wooden Subfloor

A wooden or parquet floor does not have an ideal attachment to the base, which is why defects such as “humps”, creaks, drops, gaps, etc. appear. The following activities are carried out:

  1. Rough sanding of the canvas using a parquet sander and angle grinder.
  2. Puttying the entire surface with a mixture of sawdust and base liquid for putties. Or all joints, corners, junctions, and gaps are sealed with the finished putty mixture.
  3. Re-sanding surface grinder. If there are strong swellings or “humps”, then they need to be cut off, if possible pulled towards concrete base screws, secure.

Often, for complete leveling, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 12 mm or more. Fasten with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws crosswise every 30-50 cm, recess the caps by 3-4 mm before grinding. The compensation gap between the layers must be at least 5 mm. After installation, you also need to go over the plywood with a sander to level and adjust the joints.

The finished base needs to be vacuumed and the surface can be treated with a primer with fungicidal additives. This will improve adhesion and protect the base from future damage. possible appearance mold and bugs.

Laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor is more problematic. For this, full stitching is recommended, that is, weak strips are identified and re-glued to the base. Puttying of all defects and sanding is required.

Preparing parquet boards for installation

The parquet board must “acclimatize” to the room. Therefore, 48 hours before installation, packed flooring need to be brought into the room and left. Unpacking is carried out immediately before installation.

As wood is a natural product, slight variations in color, tone or texture may occur. In addition, some species darken in the first few days after unpacking (bamboo and others). This is a normal process, there is no need to be alarmed.

Experienced craftsmen prefer to first unpack the entire parquet board, inspect it for defects and make a preliminary layout in order to know which planks will have to be cut.

It is not allowed to use pieces less than 50 cm long and less than 5 cm wide.

Installation should be done in a checkerboard pattern, that is, so that the joints do not coincide. This installation will avoid geometric deformations in the future and increase the strength of the canvas.

Floating installation

When temperature and humidity change, wood products change their geometric dimensions - they slightly narrow and expand. Therefore, compensation gaps of 10-15 mm should be left around the perimeter of the walls. This will protect the future floor from swelling.

The floor heating system must be turned off 6-8 hours before laying the parquet boards. Installation starts from the far wall. A backing made of cork or foamed polyethylene 3 mm thick is laid on the base.

Along the perimeter of walls, columns, pipes and other vertical fixed structures, plastic or homemade wooden limiters are installed every 5 cm.

At the first row, the protruding part of the groove is cut off. The first plank is laid, leveled, the second is brought to it and snapped into place. It's the same with the rest. The second row starts with a short (cut) board.

Installation should be carried out from the connection of the end edges, then joining is carried out according long side. The last row is cut at the right size, but the width must be at least 5 cm. Tapping with a block and a small hammer or mallet is allowed.

After completion of the work, the restrictive wedges are removed and the plinth is installed. Treatment with varnish or oil compounds is not required, since the parquet board is already coated with special protective equipment in factory conditions.

Glue installation

Installation with glue is similar to the floating method with the difference that a thick adhesive composition on a synthetic basis (Barlinek, Khomakol, etc.) is applied to the base. Water-dispersion mixtures cannot be used.

The protruding edge of the first row is cut off. Restrictive wedges are installed along the perimeter. Glue is applied to the floor and spread evenly with a notched trowel. The strip should be slightly wider than the width of the parquet board.

A row is laid and pressed to the base. To be on the safe side, you can fix it with nails without heads or weight it on top until the glue dries. Next row begins with distributing a new portion of glue and laying the boards offset. After completion of the work, the wedges are removed.

So, we figured out how to lay parquet boards on a wooden floor. It is really simple and less expensive than installing solid parquet. Follow our recommendations and your coating will serve you for many years.

Video - laying parquet1 boards on plywood:

There is a huge selection of floor coverings. Parquet boards have an attractive appearance and durability, which has led to the popularity of this material.

Parquet boards require a perfectly flat and very dry base. But wooden floors, especially old ones, rarely meet these criteria. What to do? Read our article.

Parquet board is a ready-to-use multilayer coating consisting of:

  1. Top wear-resistant protective layer: polyurethane, urethane-alkyd varnish, oil, oil-wax or wax treatment.
  2. Solid wood of valuable wood up to 6 mm thick: beech, oak, maple and many others. Collections from well-known manufacturers include more than 50 designs, including bleached or tinted wood, brushed or artificially aged (rustic).
  3. Base slab up to 9 mm thick made of spliced ​​pine or other coniferous species. Its fibers are located transversely to the top layer, which helps protect the structure from various deformations and distortions.
  4. Stabilization layer with longitudinally arranged fibers. This helps reduce the stress of the layers and ensures a stable geometry of the planks. Thickness – up to 3 mm.

Thanks to this design, parquet boards, unlike solid wood boards, are not afraid of bending and twisting deformations and are resistant to temperature changes.

Another difference between parquet boards and massive (solid) ones is that there are 4 installation methods: floating, glued, with hardware and on logs. If the base is wooden floors, the first two methods are considered optimal. The table below shows their advantages and disadvantages.

“Floating” (independent of the base) installation method Adhesive installation method
Simple and quick installation. Installation takes time: first you need to apply glue, then remove the excess.
The connection is strong immediately after installation. The connections become strong after the glue has completely dried.
The floor is ready for use after installation is complete. Foot traffic on the floor is permitted 12 hours after installation. Full setting occurs after 1-5 days, depending on the composition of the glue.
It is possible to correct errors during the operation of the floor covering. Correcting defects during installation is problematic, and after completion of the work it is almost impossible.
A standard set of tools is used. In addition to the regular kit, there is a special glue.
Damaged strips can be easily replaced. Replacing damaged boards is difficult.
It is possible to carry out repair work on the foundation. Access to the base is difficult.
Quick dismantling. Difficult dismantling.
The maximum laying area allowed by manufacturers is up to 240 m2. Above - only using transition thresholds (aluminum or plastic). The laying area is not limited.
The design is stable, but due to changes in temperature and humidity it may slightly change its geometric dimensions. The structure is stable.

Rules for laying on a wooden floor

A wooden floor is a capricious base. If all factors are not taken into account, then unpleasant squeaks when walking, uneven surfaces, local swelling and other defects will appear very quickly. Therefore, manufacturers strongly recommend using the guidelines provided on the inserts or brochures.

Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor is carried out in 3 stages. The permissible temperature conditions for the installation period are from +18 to +25 ° C, humidity – 30-60%.

Preparing a Wooden Subfloor

A wooden or parquet floor does not have an ideal attachment to the base, which is why defects such as “humps”, creaks, drops, gaps, etc. appear. The following activities are carried out:

  1. Rough sanding of the canvas using a parquet sander and angle grinder.
  2. Puttying the entire surface with a mixture of sawdust and base liquid for putties. Or all joints, corners, junctions, and gaps are sealed with the finished putty mixture.
  3. Repeated sanding with a surface grinder. If there are strong swellings or “humps”, then they must be cut off, if possible, pulled to the concrete base with self-tapping screws, and secured.

Often, for complete leveling, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 12 mm or more. Fasten with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws crosswise every 30-50 cm, recess the caps by 3-4 mm before grinding. The compensation gap between the layers must be at least 5 mm. After installation, you also need to go over the plywood with a sander to level and adjust the joints.

The finished base needs to be vacuumed and the surface can be treated with a primer with fungicidal additives. This will improve adhesion and protect the base from possible mold and bugs in the future.

Laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor is more problematic. For this, full stitching is recommended, that is, weak strips are identified and re-glued to the base. Puttying of all defects and sanding is required.

Preparing parquet boards for installation

The parquet board must “acclimatize” to the room. Therefore, 48 hours before installation, the packaged flooring must be brought into the room and left. Unpacking is carried out immediately before installation.

As wood is a natural product, slight variations in color, tone or texture may occur. In addition, some species darken in the first few days after unpacking (bamboo and others). This is a normal process, there is no need to be alarmed.

Experienced craftsmen prefer to first unpack the entire parquet board, inspect it for defects and make a preliminary layout in order to know which planks will have to be cut.

It is not allowed to use pieces less than 50 cm long and less than 5 cm wide.

Installation should be done in a checkerboard pattern, that is, so that the joints do not coincide. This installation will avoid geometric deformations in the future and increase the strength of the canvas.

Floating installation

When temperature and humidity change, wood products change their geometric dimensions - they slightly narrow and expand. Therefore, compensation gaps of 10-15 mm should be left around the perimeter of the walls. This will protect the future floor from swelling.

The floor heating system must be turned off 6-8 hours before laying the parquet boards. Installation starts from the far wall. A backing made of cork or foamed polyethylene 3 mm thick is laid on the base.

Along the perimeter of walls, columns, pipes and other vertical fixed structures, plastic or homemade wooden limiters are installed every 5 cm.

At the first row, the protruding part of the groove is cut off. The first plank is laid, leveled, the second is brought to it and snapped into place. It's the same with the rest. The second row starts with a short (cut) board.

Installation should be carried out from the connection of the end edges, then the joining is made along the long side. The last row is cut to the required size, but the width must be at least 5 cm. Tapping using a block and a small hammer or mallet is allowed.

After completion of the work, the restrictive wedges are removed and the plinth is installed. Treatment with varnish or oil compounds is not required, since the parquet board is already coated with special protective agents at the factory.

Glue installation

Installation with glue is similar to the floating method with the difference that a thick adhesive composition on a synthetic basis (Barlinek, Khomakol, etc.) is applied to the base. Water-dispersion mixtures cannot be used.

The protruding edge of the first row is cut off. Restrictive wedges are installed along the perimeter. Glue is applied to the floor and spread evenly with a notched trowel. The strip should be slightly wider than the width of the parquet board.

A row is laid and pressed to the base. To be on the safe side, you can fix it with nails without heads or weight it on top until the glue dries. The next row begins with the distribution of a new portion of glue and laying the boards offset. After completion of the work, the wedges are removed.

So, we figured out how to lay parquet boards on a wooden floor. It is really simple and less expensive than installing solid parquet. Follow our recommendations and your coating will serve you for many years.

Video - laying parquet1 boards on plywood: