Make a hood in aerated concrete walls. Ventilation in a house made of aerated concrete. Requirements for the organization of ventilation ducts and shaft parameters

If there is gas in the future, then the boiler chimney and ventilation of the boiler room must be done immediately according to the requirements of the gas workers.
And immediately, when building a house, line the channels. Especially the chimney. And best of all - everything
If you install a fan on each channel, then where will the supply air “appear” to replace the removed air?
You won't keep the windows open all the time...
As for the exhaust ducts.
In addition to the kitchen and bathrooms, you also have technical equipment. rooms, dressing rooms. there is something else (this is what I was able to read from the small text) These rooms, in an amicable way, also need to be ventilated.
Ideally, with such areas of the house, it is better to use mechanical ventilation. There are fewer problems with whether it will work or not.
But it can also be natural. But then you won’t be able to get by with channels for the kitchen and bathroom.
And in any case, it is better for a specialist to indicate everything that concerns the ventilation system and not for an architect. Their solutions are always standard and correspond to proposals made a hundred years ago.
No one will really tell you anything.
You must first understand all your “wants”. You give them in doses.
Even now.
You write that "...conditional modes: summer, 20 outside, 20 inside; ..."
But don’t write anything about the region where the house will be located. A lot will depend on this.
Let’s assume that your location is such that in winter you have no lower than -5 and in summer no higher than +20.
In this case everything is very simple. Heat the air and don't heat it up in the summer.
And if you live somewhere where it is -30 in winter and +30 in summer, then in addition to heating and not heating, you will also need cooling.
Etc.
So...
Information:
Region - Moscow region.
The wishes are lower capital investments, while allowing for higher operating costs (therefore, recovery is not an option).
4 adults and 2 children will live in the house
House made of aerated concrete, cold attic. Two floors. Ceilings everywhere 2.85
Now notes:
1. I want to do air exchange in the dressing rooms through transfer grilles
2. Inflow - either through a window, or through inlet valves of the KIV type, or through inlet valves to the reservoir. windows (I would be grateful for advice on this issue).
3. Hood - a recommendation is needed (in fact, that’s why I wrote the question).
Questions:
1. Why line the channels? I just want a vent. channels inside internal walls made of aerated concrete. Is it necessary to sleeve? What are the benefits?
2. Regarding the chimney - I want a chimney made of stainless steel, “pipe in pipe”, between the pipes basalt wool. On the ground floor, in the boiler room, it will go without any finishing. On the second floor, across the bathroom - I want to sew up gypsum plasterboard, tiles on top. Through the cold attic - I think also without anything, just the chimney itself. What do you think about this decision?
3. Well, in general, how do you recommend organizing the ventilation system? What channel sizes should I accept? For example, which channel should I use in a bathroom with an area of 3-4 m2? Which one should I take for a living room with an area of 30 m2?

Natural ventilation itself is extremely simple in principle. There is no need for compressors here; the polluted air itself goes out into the street, being replaced by clean air. This occurs due to the difference in pressure and temperature. When built correctly, the system operates continuously and there is always fresh air and comfort in the house.

Of course, it is easy to ventilate the room manually, using windows and vents. But this is not always acceptable, say in winter, and drafts have never benefited anyone. And in other cases, ventilation is completely impossible, for example, in the bathroom, where there is often no window at all. Another disadvantage is the frequency. Ideally, air should always circulate in the room, which cannot be achieved with vents. Air conditioning doesn't solve the problem either. Even if there were two of them, they would not be able to circulate air throughout the house and replace it with clean outdoor air. In any case, you will have to make an effort and build a system natural ventilation. But the air conditioner was created to solve completely different problems.

Primary requirements

So, air exchange system in a private household must satisfy the following basic requirements:

The system should not significantly affect the air temperature in the room, especially in the winter;

There must be a continuous full exchange of air between rooms and the street, and not between each other;

A good system should provide clean air all premises;

Accelerated air exchange in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet is especially important;

Complete absence of drafts.

Thus, what is needed is not just an exchange between rooms in the house, but a replacement of polluted air with fresh air in each room. Creating proper ventilation in finished housing is very problematic, so it is better to do all the work at the stage of wall construction. If you decide to do major renovation home, then right now you can build a high-quality air exchanger.

Passive house ventilation

Passive houses do not require heating! They are heated by the heat emitted by the residents and household appliances, therefore, every kilocalorie of heat must be saved and used rationally. Equipment that is successfully used for ventilation of brick houses is unacceptable here. Cold air currents should not be allowed inside, as well as loss of precious heat.

air movement in a passive house

Therefore, ideally sealed passive houses are equipped with special supply and exhaust ventilation units. Energy-efficient counterflow heat exchangers and fans with EC motors have been developed for passive houses. Such equipment returns up to 95% of the heat from exhaust air and allows you to spend an average of 5 kilowatts per 1 square meter on heating. meter of house area per year. One of the most important requirements for passive house ventilation is very quiet operation of the equipment.

A good addition to energy-efficient passive house ventilation are ground heat exchangers ( heat pumps). The devices receive heat directly from the ground or water. The air passing through the underground heat exchanger, even in winter, has a temperature of at least 17 degrees. In summer, the hot street air is cooled in the same way. Therefore, passive houses always have a comfortable temperature.

Learn more about what an energy efficient house is and how to build one in the video:

Additional actions

Along with the natural ventilation of the walls and roof of a house made of aerated concrete blocks, it is worth taking care of the supply, cooling/heating fresh air. Modern ventilation systems of the recovery type can reduce the heat loss of a structure by 20-30%. This allows you to completely block the heat leakage caused by the air channels of aerated concrete blocks.

The fact that a house made of aerated concrete can do without ventilation is nothing more than a myth. The porous structure of the blocks will not cope with the removal of moisture accumulated in the premises, which will lead to the destruction of the finish and a decrease in the operational properties of the home. A house made of aerated blocks needs high-quality ventilation to create a comfortable environment for people to live in.

Ventilation for a foam block house, types of working diagrams

Mixed type ventilation is shown in a large foam house

For any home, insulation is an important point. For ventilation, this factor is also important. Ventilation can be divided into three main areas:

natural;
forced;
mixed.

In the first case, the circulation of air flows is carried out due to the difference in pressure outside and inside the house. Air can enter through windows, vents, doors, window valves. The exhaust air is removed through the ventilation shaft.

Such ventilation does not require large financial costs and does not depend on electricity. The only negative is the dependence on weather conditions. IN summer time stagnation of “exhaust air” will form due to the lack of appropriate draft.

Ventilation ducts in walls made of aerated concrete blocks engineering standards

The ventilation pipe must be insulated

In houses built from aerated concrete, Special attention is given to the construction of the ventilation duct. The ability of this building material absorb moisture, gases, its fragility and inability to withstand high temperatures

Therefore, ventilation ducts are performed in other ways:

laying out the channel itself and the adjacent brick wall;
lining with plastic, steel or asbestos-cement pipes;
installation of a galvanized box, which is lined with aerated concrete blocks.

Ventilation ducts are installed on the roof to a certain height. Violation of the location of the pipe is fraught with poor traction or even its “tipping over”. Thus, a channel installed at a distance of 1.5 m from the ridge should exceed it by 500 mm. If it is located 3 meters from the ridge - level with it in height, more than 3 meters - no lower than an angle of 10° between the ridge and the upper edge of the pipe.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to make a “work of art” out of a ventilation duct and decorate it with devices that are not related to the ventilation system. The end of the pipe can be an umbrella or deflector, which will improve the operation of natural hood

General requirements for good chimneys

Boilers, stoves or fireplaces of a certain power have chimneys with different channel cross-sections. These sections must be calculated correctly and accurately. If the channel is too narrow, the smoke will not have time to escape, the draft will be poor, and the heating device will smoke. The type of material is often decisive, for example, chimney pipes in a wall made of aerated concrete require more reliable thermal insulation than street pipes, but less than pipes passing through wood.

Preferred round form chimney, there are no turbulences in this type that cause poor or reverse draft. At the same time, installing any chimney through a wall assumes an optimal height of 5-10 meters. With individual construction, pipes 10 meters long are something out of science fiction. But chimneys shorter than 5 meters are a fairly common phenomenon; people are not too interested in how to remove the pipe from the stove correctly. Moreover, what height is guaranteed to provide poor traction.

If roof covering susceptible to fire, then to the exhausted boiler room or stove chimney a spark arrestor must be installed in the form metal mesh with cells 0.5x0.5 centimeters. There should be excellent ventilation near the heating device. Horizontal sunbeds should not exceed 1 meter (optimally 0.6 meters). Longer horizontal sections impair traction and can quickly become clogged with soot. In any pipeline, especially if it is a single-walled chimney made of metal, there must be a condensate collector and a hole (or door) for cleaning soot. It is advisable to avoid angles of 90 degrees; it is better to replace one such angle with two 45 degrees.

Ventilation ducts in a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands, brickwork

It is best to trust the construction of ventilation systems for a private home to specialists. If you follow building regulations and follow the rules of laying and installation, it is possible to arrange the hood yourself. First of all, it is determined which of the known methods will install the exhaust duct.

The ventilation shaft removes exhaust air from different rooms

When laying channels with bricks, you need to consider:

Location - in one of the walls of the room where moisture especially accumulates.
The fewer channels the better. This issue is resolved geographically - the kitchen and sanitary rooms are located in close proximity to each other (“neighboring”). By the way, this requirement applies not only to ventilation, but also to sewerage and water supply systems.
The brick structure should not come into contact with wooden building elements at home - the temperature of the channel will gradually destroy the wood.
Only used solid brick. Laying from hollow facing is also allowed, but with careful filling of the voids with mortar. Silicate, which has the ability to crumble, is not suitable for such work; it does not tolerate temperature regime, formed inside the ventilation duct.
The channels are tied together, the separators make up ½ brick.
The brick is laid using a single-row ligation system. When applying the solution for the next row, you must ensure that the mixture does not get inside the channel.

Important! Ventilation is not installed in a load-bearing wall made of aerated concrete, as in houses made of other materials! This is not a mandatory requirement, but experts recommend it due to the fact that, basically, load-bearing walls are located outside the building - condensation will form on them. . The inner surface of the ducts, ventilation and smoke, should be as smooth as possible

Therefore, when laying bricks, excess mortar is removed from the joints, and the surface is smoothed with a trowel. Also, there should be no protrusions or depressions on the inner surface - they interfere with normal air circulation.

The inner surface of the ducts, ventilation and smoke, should be as smooth as possible. Therefore, when laying bricks, excess mortar is removed from the joints, and the surface is smoothed with a trowel. Also, there should be no protrusions or depressions on the inner surface - they interfere with normal air circulation.

Particular attention is paid to the seams, which must be filled with mortar and rubbed to prevent combustion products and exhaust air from entering adjacent ducts or rooms of the house. Grouting is done after laying 2-3 rows of bricks

The process is carried out manually, with reciprocating and circular movements along the inner surface of the structure.

Important! The peculiarity of brick ventilation ducts is that they are not equipped with mechanical devices.

Channels are the basis of the principle

The inlets and outlets of the channels are closed with decorative, easily removable grilles. This will allow for regular cleaning of the air ducts, from once to several times a year. It is better to make the channels themselves from stainless metals to ensure the necessary durability of the system. The ability to heat the air will significantly increase the efficiency of ventilation. If everything is done correctly, then the external wall with a channel will be no different from ordinary ones.

For heating, it is better to install a ventilation duct next to the stove or install a heater. Installing an “umbrella” over the stove solves several problems at once. This not only removes fumes and unpleasant odors from the kitchen, but also additionally heats the system, which significantly increases air exchange.

Round plastic channels are increasingly used these days. However, as practice shows, round section channels sharply reduces the efficiency of the system. The optimal pipe cross-section is square. Savings are inappropriate here. Therefore, we turn to tinsmiths to make square pipes and manifolds. And only air inlet and outlet can be carried out using round pipes.

Ventilation of a house from SIP panels

“breathing house” system made of sip panels

It’s not for nothing that houses made of SIP panels are called “thermoses” for their high thermal insulation. Energy efficiency is achieved due to the absence of cracks, cold bridges and the special qualities of the SIP panels themselves. There is no need to talk about any natural ventilation in such houses. All air exchange is forced. But here, too, there are more or less costly options for ventilating a house from SIP panels.

The most inexpensive solution is this: exhaust ducts are routed only to the kitchen and bathrooms. These are two separate channels, they are not combined so that the smell from the toilet does not penetrate into the kitchen and vice versa. Thus, the house will have 2-3 air ducts (depending on the number of bathrooms). Before passing through the roof, the air ducts are combined together so as not to make holes in the roof in several places.

With high-quality exhaust, the inflow can be organized using micro-ventilation through windows or supply valves. This method slightly reduces the energy efficiency of the building. Therefore, in such houses they use ventilation air supply units with heated air, which are difficult to install with your own hands.

The second option for budget ventilation of a house made from SIP panels is the installation of breathers. Breezers are compact supply and exhaust units for one room. The breather supplies about 100 cubic meters of air to the house per hour. If there are 3-4 people living, it is correct to install at least two units for ventilation of the house.

Each breather has two exits to the street: for air intake and air exhaust. The air is heated by a recuperator or heater. Installing breathers will cost 2-4 times less than full-fledged supply and exhaust ventilation. But what is a home ventilation plan without hoods from the toilet and kitchen.

The most expensive and effective option ventilation of the house from SIP panels - a supply and exhaust unit that serves all rooms of the house. Many owners of finished houses are deterred by such ventilation by the need to lay air ducts. Therefore, it is advisable to design it as early as possible.

Where is the best place to place the chimney outlet?

It is best if the street chimney passes through the wall from the gable side. If this is not possible, and the sleeve will come out from the side of the roof slope, you will also have to build a support post, if roof overhang more than 40 centimeters. If the overhang is small, then the pipe can be passed directly through it. With proper fire protection, especially if a chimney is built through a wall in a wooden house, it will serve as an additional retainer.

Very important correct fastening to the wall of the chimney pipes from the street side. There are two options for such fastening: . In the first option, clamps wrap around the pipe and are rigidly attached to the wall on both sides.
The second option is a standard clamp, which is tightened and then attached to the wall with an anchor pin

The third fastening element is the lower console, which picks up the pipe and prevents it from falling down. This console has the form of 3-angled metal supports, one side of which is screwed to the wall, and the chimney rests on the other side, so that the supports do not interfere with opening the door for cleaning. You need two such supports. The option with stilettos is traditionally considered more budget-friendly.

In the first option, clamps wrap around the pipe and are rigidly attached to the wall on both sides.
The second option is a standard clamp, which is tightened and then attached to the wall with an anchor pin. The third fastening element is the lower console, which picks up the pipe and prevents it from falling down. This console has the form of 3-angled metal supports, one side of which is screwed to the wall, and the chimney rests on the other side, so that the supports do not interfere with opening the door for cleaning. You need two such supports. The option with stilettos is traditionally considered more budget-friendly.

Benefits of going through a wall

Space saving, i.e. usable area;
A chimney through the wall can be built not at the beginning, but at the end, if the budget for building a house is limited;
Installation and passage of any chimney through a wall is easier than constructing a standard one indoors;
Increased fire safety. When making your furnace gas outlet, you must remember that sooner or later soot may spontaneously ignite in it, and the temperature inside the pipe reaches 1200 degrees. If the chimney is metal and located indoors, especially near flammable walls or decorative elements, then a fire is highly likely to occur. A hellish fire in a chimney on the street does not threaten such catastrophic consequences;
Brick chimneys indoors begin to leak smoke over time and carbon monoxide through the seams, and installing the chimney through the wall and connecting it to the street pipe reliably protects against this;
In case of problems with traction, adjust external chimney the height is much simpler, without touching the passage of the pipeline through the wall and the section to the boiler.

Kinds

Any building requires a private design of an air duct system. But there are two main types of systems:

Natural

Forced

A simpler and most affordable option for organizing air circulation.

If you implement this system in an aerated concrete structure, you can eliminate the use of auxiliary equipment: air movement is carried out due to the natural climatic features of the external environment.

The system location parameters, the length and cross-section of the pipes depend on the temperature background inside and outside, pressure and wind speed.

This species is suitable for normal climatic conditions when the temperature does not rise above 45 - 50 degrees Celsius.

Provides the ability to regulate ventilation using specialized valves.

The hood is capable of changing air as many times in one hour as was provided in advance.

Before implementing the system, you need to make preliminary calculations, during which special attention is paid to:

Conditions that should be created in the end.
The size of the room for which the project will be carried out.
The number of people regularly staying in the house.

If the houses are made of aerated concrete, then we need systems that, taking into account the total area and the number of people, can perform a complete change of air about 5 times.

What decorative materials are used to finish weak areas

Starikovsky expanded clay is rarely used in modern walk-through devices; now, to a greater extent, various basalt fillers or various fiber cement boards are used. They look like drywall and cut well. This is generally the most best material on this moment. Fiber cement boards have many commercial names.

Brick is often used, the rule here is simple - the brick is laid from the pipe along its entire length, and this, in principle, is enough for fire protection. The heat is mainly removed by brick, but a little fiber cement board around the perimeter still won’t hurt.

Porcelain tiles are great because they can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and can be used for decorative finishing along with fire protection. You can use its analogue - this is a very resistant special heat-resistant tile called terracotta. Excellent tiles that are used for thermal protection and at the same time for room decoration, both on the floor near the stove and on the wall at the chimney outlet.

Air ducts in a brick house

Masonry ventilation ducts made of brick is the most common way to organize air exchange in private homes. Brick does not collapse under the influence of hot air, dirt does not form on its walls and moisture does not settle, so the material is often used to organize chimneys and air ducts.

The ventilation duct is a durable vertical structure extending to a level above the roof

It is important to organize constant movement of air masses in the shaft; to do this, turns and irregularities inside the air duct should be avoided.

Brick for ventilation ducts is resistant to moisture and hot air. A mixture of sand and cement diluted with water is used as a fastening solution.

Dimensions are usually 12x15 cm, for brick structures- 12×25 cm. The thickness of the walls should not be less than 10 cm. Since the brick ventilation shaft is heavy and creates a strong load, it is installed directly on the foundation of the building.

Stages of work on laying brick ventilation

The process of installing brickwork with your own hands is carried out using a template, which can be made from plywood or a sheet of chipboard. This part has a square or rectangular shape, depending on the cross-sectional shape of the future air duct. The length of the template is 8–10 bricks thick.

Brick ventilation ducts are laid from the corner of the wall. The first air duct is created after 2 layers of brick are laid. To guide the template while working, you need to set it vertically using a plumb line. A distance of one brick width should be left between the two channels.

The bricks must be installed end to end, and excess mortar must be removed using a spatula. The rows are laid with a slight shift relative to the previous row. After laying out 5–7 rows of bricks, it is necessary to transfer the plywood template.
If a chimney is located next to the ventilation duct, between them there should be a continuous brickwork with a thickness of 40 cm. This will avoid mixing of air flows and the entry of combustion products into the ventilation system.

PVC air ducts

An important feature is the material from which the ventilation duct is made. PVC air ducts are very popular due to their low price

They are most often used in the installation of ventilation and plumbing system. According to their characteristics, they have a number of advantages, namely:

resistant to many aggressive chemicals;
do not rust;
light in weight.

PVC is often used when installing forced ventilation. But for now, more expensive plastic pipes offer worthy competition. metal base. They are more advanced in design and do not require an additional insulating layer.

System design

A medium-sized private house should have at least two hoods. There is no need to install an exhaust pipe in every room. As a rule, hoods for the bathroom and kitchen are sufficient. An exhaust pipe is not just a hole in the wall. All this represents a rather complex system, which is best designed at the housing construction stage. The main thing here is subtle calculation; this is the only way the system will work as efficiently as possible.

If the construction of the system itself can be done independently, then it is better to entrust the design and calculations to a professional. Take advantage finished project much simpler, because you will not need to take into account many of these or other factors necessary for the calculation.

Forced ventilation type

This design is both more difficult to install and more expensive, and its operation involves the use of electricity, as well as various devices. But the cost of all the equipment quickly pays off due to the fact that the microclimate in the house becomes much better.

Let's highlight a few features of the system:

Installed on air ducts exhaust fans, air from outside enters through a network of channels.
In order not to disturb the temperature regime during the cold season, it is necessary to install devices for heating the air in the ventilation system.
The cheapest heating method is not an electric heater, but a recuperator. This is a kind of heat exchanger that has two fans - exhaust and supply. The air entering the house is heated by gas, which is discharged to the street.

Please note that when installing a system with a recuperator, heat loss is reduced by approximately 30%. As a rule, the device is placed in the attic and connected to a common channel

It combines air ducts that come from all rooms. It is necessary to ensure free access to the recuperator - it will sometimes be necessary to clean the plates and change the filter elements.

Installation Highlights

In standard buildings, the ventilation system is implemented using specialized ducts that are mounted in the walls. Aerated concrete houses require a different system, so they present complexity.

The material used is gas permeable, which has positive and negative consequences(violation of air duct tightness). To solve this problem, the following options are used:

Installation of a central channel made of reliable galvanized steel. To avoid the formation of condensation, it can be insulated (sheathed using small-sized aerated concrete blocks).
Brick laying of the channel and internal walls.
Lining with a channel made of high-quality plastic.

Additional Steps

It is important to take care of temperature conditions, that is, heating or cooling of the supplied air. If preference is given to recuperative systems, this will reduce the level of heat loss by 25–30 percent

This action occurs by blocking the heat leakage caused by the air channels.

The uniqueness of aerated concrete lies in the porosity of the structure, so the blocks are simply not able to cope with the removal of the accumulated amount of moisture. The level of performance properties decreases and the interior and exterior finishes begin to deteriorate.

Professionals argue that such houses urgently need a high-quality air duct system that allows them to create the most comfortable (no moisture, drafts, quick and regular air change) and acceptable living conditions for people.

Types of ventilation systems

Ventilation in an aerated concrete house has its own characteristics. If in buildings made of traditional materials ventilation ducts are laid only in rooms with high humidity air, then it is advisable to arrange them in every room.

Advice. If this is too difficult, then rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, boiler room and basement must be equipped with a ventilation system. And in residential premises, interior doors must be equipped ventilation grilles or leave a small gap under them for free air circulation.

Door with ventilation grille

Ventilation of a private house can be natural, forced or mixed.

Examples of different schemes are given in the table.

Ventilation diagram	Explanations
Passive ventilation	Ventilation occurs naturally through ventilation ducts leading to the roof of the house.
Mixed ventilation	Mixed ventilation system with exhaust fans in rooms with the highest air pollution. Fans are turned on as needed, either manually or automatically at specified intervals.
Forced exhaust ventilation	The exhaust fan is installed in a common duct that connects all the air ducts coming from the rooms.
Forced supply and exhaust ventilation	The influx of fresh air and the outflow of exhaust air is carried out forcibly using a mechanical ventilation system with a recuperator.

Now in more detail about each type.

Natural (passive) ventilation

In order for the passive ventilation of a house made of aerated concrete to work properly, you need to make some effort.

Namely:

Install channels to remove dirty and humid air from the house. In order for it to extend itself, these channels must extend to the roof of the house to a certain height. If they are one and a half meters away from the ridge, then they should be 50 cm higher than it. At a distance of up to 3 meters, the head of the channel can be flush with the ridge. And if this distance exceeds 3 meters, the top of the channel should not be below a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 100 to the horizon. Violation of these requirements causes poor traction or even its “capsizing”.

Scheme of ventilation ducts output to the roof

Advice. It is necessary to install an umbrella at the top of the exhaust pipe to protect against precipitation or a deflector to improve the functioning of natural ventilation.

Provide fresh air flow. Sealed plastic windows They practically don’t let him into the house, but you can find a way out. For example, install window units With supply valves or ventilators built into external walls.

Advice. If the ventilators are installed directly under the windows, the air coming from the street in winter will be heated by the heat coming from the heating radiators.

Forced ventilation

Such a system will be more expensive to install and operate due to the use of electricity and special devices for forced air circulation.

But their price is compensated by greater ventilation efficiency and improved home microclimate.

The air ducts in such a system are equipped with exhaust fans, and air from the street is supplied through its network of channels.
To ensure that the temperature regime in the premises is not disturbed in cold weather, the ventilation system is equipped with units for heating outdoor air.
The most economical option in this case is to use not an electric heater, but a heat recuperator. This is a heat exchanger with two fans - supply and exhaust, in which fresh air is heated from the heat of gases removed from the house.

The principle of operation of the recuperator

For reference. When using systems with a recuperator, heat loss in a heated building is reduced by 20-30%.

Typically, the recuperator is installed in the attic of a house and connected to a common duct, which combines air ducts from all ventilated rooms. Access to it must be free, as it requires maintenance - cleaning the plates when the seasons change and replacing filters.

Recovery unit in the attic

Mixed ventilation

In such a system, fresh air flows naturally, and exhaust fans are installed to remove exhaust air masses.

It can be:

Appliances built into the exterior walls or windows of each ventilated room;

Exhaust fan in the wall

One powerful duct fan in the attic, to which several ventilation ducts are supplied.

Duct fan

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Optimal ventilation system for an aerated concrete house

We need to start again with a reminder that gas silicate blocks have high hygroscopicity. This means that the best option for constructing a ventilation system in such a house is to install vertical channels and shafts. It may not be easy to install a ventilation duct, it may take a lot of time and money, but this is the ideal option.

Installing air valves in the walls of a gas silicate house is a high probability, firstly, to reduce bearing capacity walls, secondly, it becomes possible for moisture to penetrate into the body of aerated blocks when warm air from the premises comes into contact with cold air outside. That is, the appearance of condensation - real opportunity. And this is again moisture that destroys aerated concrete.

Therefore, we offer three additional options that will help you avoid trouble.

Use only the supply circuit with output through the central risers.
Use materials to insulate air exhaust valves. By the way, many manufacturers today do just that. Their models use cylindrical thermal insulation material that is inserted inside the valve. It also protects the wall from condensation.
Use only window structures as supply units.

By the way, the supply ventilation system showed itself to be much better in this situation than the exhaust one. But many craftsmen found their way out of the difficult situation. For example, to install a valve with a diameter of 100 mm, a hole with a diameter of 130-150 mm was made in the wall. the valve was installed in the wall, and the gap between it and the wall was filled with polyurethane foam. The latter is polyurethane foam with high thermal insulation characteristics.

Another option that is well suited for houses made of aerated concrete is a system with recovery or calorific heating of the incoming air. That is, cold air, before entering the interior and passing through the wall, it gains heat, which naturally eliminates the formation of condensation. However, it should be noted that such ventilation systems are very expensive, and they also consume energy, so you will have to pay electricity bills all the time.

We create coziness and comfort

Ideally, ventilation ducts should be built into the walls of the building. This will save space and not spoil interior interior premises. Each channel must have an exit into the room, closed with a decorative grille. And the entire system must have at least two exits to the street. One duct is designed to take in fresh outside air. The best option– place it in the wall at a height of 1.8-2.2 meters above the foundation level. A decorative deflector will protect the entrance from foreign debris and improve the efficiency of the system. The second outlet is designed to remove contaminated air from the room. It is located on the roof and connects all the ventilation channels. The diameter of the exhaust pipe must be sufficient to avoid the formation of air pockets.

To ensure the necessary efficiency, we place the pipe at a height of 70 cm above the roof level. In the case of a large household there can be up to five such pipes. Installing deflectors on each of the pipes will help increase efficiency.

Foundation ventilation

fastening plastic pipes in foundation formwork

When taking care of proper ventilation of the house, it is important not to forget about the safety of the building envelope: roof, ceilings, foundation. Ventilation of a private house should be designed comprehensively, including auxiliary buildings and sewerage

It is advisable to plan the ventilation of the foundation of the house during the construction of the foundation itself. When a ceiling is installed for the floor of the first floor, it may be impossible to reach the necessary areas.

Ventilation of the foundation of a house is a system of holes (vents) located in the base. The total area of the vents and their placement depend on the size and location of the house.

Rules for arranging ventilation for the foundation of a house:

The area of one vent should be from 0.25 sq.m. You can make several nearby holes of a smaller area or one larger one. The total area of the holes should be 0.25 square meters for every 100 square meters of house area.
The vents are placed evenly, otherwise areas of stagnant air will form.
From a blind corner to the nearest vent, the distance is up to 1 meter.
2 vents are made on each side of the foundation.

If the cottage is located on a hill or plain and is well blown by winds, for high-quality ventilation It is enough to equip the foundation of the house with 2 vents with a diameter of 0.15 m on each side.

If the vents are closed with nets or decorative grilles, the net area of the openings is reduced. Therefore, it is advisable to make one additional vent on each side of the house.

In winter, the ventilation in the foundation of the house is closed, some vents are periodically opened for ventilation. Then the floor in the house will maintain its temperature, but excess moisture will not accumulate in the underground.

Ventilation in the foundation of a house can be done after its construction. The holes are made with a perforator with a carbide crown of a suitable size. If the plinth reinforcement is cut during drilling, the foundation at that location will weaken.

Galvanized ventilation ducts

Galvanized ventilation ducts from of stainless steel, also have their advantages. They are fireproof and can easily withstand temperature changes and excess humidity (during condensation). The downside is the weight - the pipes are quite heavy, which makes installation and fixation difficult.

It is often practiced that in the ventilation system I use PVC pipes intended for sewerage. This is allowed. If you compare ventilation ducts made of polyvinyl chloride and metal, it is better to choose the former. They are both cheaper and more practical.

Important! Pipes made of polymer materials cannot be installed next to chimneys. They are not fire retardant

Installation of ventilation ducts

When selecting ventilation ducts, it is necessary to focus on the material the pipe is made of and select the correct cross-sectional diameter. After all, the better the quality of the ventilation duct, the longer it will last

The shapes of air ducts are:

rectangular;
round.

The latter have less sound insulation. Pipes with a round cross-sectional diameter are installed in houses with high ceiling. A rectangular ventilation duct looks more impressive. However, both of them can be decorated with a box made of thin plastic.

When laying, it is more convenient to make a rectangular channel

By design, air ducts are:

flexible;
hard.

Corrugated pipes easy to install because they can take any position and direction. However, when installing at the site of operation, the corrugation must be stretched to the maximum. This is done so that the accordion does not create unnecessary noise when air passes inside the duct. Corrugated pipes are secured with clamps. This type of duct is suitable for kitchen hoods.

Important! When installing ventilation, it is necessary to avoid unnecessary bends. They increase the aerodynamic resistance of passing flows

When the ventilation system operates, dust particles settle on the inner surface of the accordion, clogging it. Rigid pipes, thanks to their smooth inner surface, not only have high noise insulation, but also prevent dirt from settling on the inner walls. They are more reliable in operation, as they are not subject to mechanical damage or dents.

Calculations of productivity and optimal dimensions

Only a specialist can handle calculations that take into account temperature, the number of people living, glass area and other parameters. However, every building owner is able to make a simple approximate calculation of the ventilation of his home using just a few parameters.

So, before building a ventilation duct in a load-bearing wall made of aerated concrete, it is necessary to calculate its performance. For example, let's take: cottage, the area of five residential premises is 80 sq. m. m, ceiling height – 2.7 m, kitchen with electric stove, combined bath and toilet, boiler room – 10 sq.m and data from SP 54.13330.2011 “Residential multi-apartment buildings”.

Inflow – 80x2.7x1=216 cubic meters/hour.
Required exhaust air removal: kitchen – 60 cubic meters/h; bathroom – 50 cubic meters/hour. boiler room – 100 cubic meters/hour – 60+50+100=210 cubic meters/hour.
The calculated rate is 216 cubic meters/hour.

Ventilation duct height one-story house– 4 m. At a temperature of 25°C, the hood capacity is 58.59 cubic m/h, therefore, 216/58.59 = 3.69. Based on the calculated data, it is necessary to install 4 air ducts that will provide effective ventilation Houses.

Ventilation in a brick house

ventilation brick house planned at the earliest stage of construction

When creating a ventilation plan for a brick house, you need to pay special attention to the location of ventilation shafts for natural ventilation. Brick ventilation ducts in private houses can be installed: . parallel to the chimneys;
install with separate risers.

parallel to the chimneys;
install with separate risers.

In any case, exhaust shafts are discharged through the roof. The draft is formed due to the difference in air pressure in the house and above the roof, carrying vapors and gases outside the home. This type of ventilation brick house most effective in cold period of the year.

Channels are most often located inside masonry walls:

with a wall thickness of 0.38 m - in one row;
with a thickness of 0.64 m - in two rows.

For ventilation of a two- or one-story house, it is most convenient to make channels with a square section of 14x14 cm. The brick is placed on the mortar for laying the walls, but you can also make a clay-sand mixture.

Prepare a solid baked brick, buoys, test ball and template in advance. Wooden boxes with a cross-section of 14x14 cm and up to 10 bricks in length are used as inventory buoys. The template is a board 2.5 x 0.14 x 0.025 m, holes are cut out in it, the shape and location corresponding to the future air ducts.

During laying, it is necessary to check the vertical line with a plumb line. At the end of the work, the walls are mopped. The laying is done vertically. Distance to corners and doorways from 38 cm. Thermal insulation must be laid between the exhaust shaft and the chimney.

Important points when building home ventilation with your own hands:

Place the template with the end facing inside cross wall. Mark the location of the holes with chalk and check the template from time to time during the work;
The walls of the channels are made 1 brick thick;
The solution is trimmed and the channels are laid end to end;
Next to the ventilation ducts, dressing is laid in one row;
To make the shaft stronger, you can lay bricks across the channel, but cleaning such a channel will be more difficult;
The outlet channels are laid out from bricks cut at the required angle (more than 60 degrees to the horizontal). The diameter of the main and outlet channels must match;
The ligation of the wall and shaft is done with three-quarters and half bricks;
The buoys, which are moved from time to time, at the same time help to maintain the shape of the channel and keep it clean;
When mopping, the walls are moistened and thoroughly rubbed.

Deviation of the channel from the vertical impairs traction. In this case, there is only one way out - an exhaust fan.

Forced ventilation

The circulation of air flows in a foam block house is carried out using mechanical devices. Ventilation of the room can be carried out according to three different schemes:

mechanical exhaust;
mechanical supply;
supply and exhaust mechanical.

In the case of mechanical removal of dirty air, exhaust fans are installed in the air ducts. These devices are divided into:

centrifugal;
axial;
kitchen

Unsuitable air can be discharged directly into the street or into the ventilation shaft. In the latter option, in order to prevent the backflow of dirty air, it is necessary to equip a check valve.

Mechanical forced ventilation carried out by supplying fresh air through ventilation ducts using air valves and duct air conditioners. It complements natural ventilation. The incoming air flow can be cleaned and heated.

In supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery, the supply air is heated at the expense of the exhaust air. That is, the air flows do not mix, but pass through adjacent parallel channels. Thus, the supply air warms up. Recuperators use little electricity during operation. Another plus is that the mechanical device is not noisy. The inflow and outflow of air is balanced, so the circulation of air flows inside the house will be carried out evenly.

Why choose inertial hoods

If a person is wondering about choosing an air duct system in a house, then it is worth considering inertial supply and exhaust structures. Before making purchases, it is worth calculating the length and cross-sections of the channels.

Then the location of absolutely all valves is determined. For correct execution a full-fledged ventilation diagram home, which is based on the characteristics of air interaction. According to the laws of physics warm air rises and the cold one falls.

Even if you install the ventilation system yourself, then you need to think about what materials and tools are needed for installation. At the moment, stores offer a wide range of products with which you can install an air circulation system in the shortest possible time.

What are ventilation ducts and what are they for?

In a house made of aerated concrete, ventilation should ideally be built along with the construction of walls

Ventilation ducts are exhaust ducts for the natural ventilation system. Natural ventilation can also be called - round-the-clock, without mechanical stimulation

The installation of ventilation ducts in houses made of aerated concrete blocks is very important. Such buildings especially need good ventilation, since aerated concrete, due to its porous structure, is an excellent moisture absorber

He tends to absorb it not only from the outside, from environment, but also in damp areas inside the house. Because of this, when the temperature drops, the moisture in the pores freezes and expands, which leads to the appearance of cracks. That is why it is necessary to timely remove moisture from those rooms in which it can linger.

Ventilation ducts in a house made of aerated concrete should be provided for the following premises:

bathroom;
bathroom;
kitchens;
swimming pool;
boiler room;
garage;
cellar

This list also includes the room located directly above the boiler room, regardless of its purpose. Such safety measures are taken to avoid possible ingress of exhaust gases.

The ventilation duct is robust construction, leading a continuous channel to a level above the roof and ensuring constant air movement. Basically, the dimensions of the ventilation duct are 120x120 mm, for brickwork - 120x250 mm, wall thickness - 100 mm. Due to the fact that the channel is made of bricks for two-story house, weighs approximately 5.5 tons, it is installed on the foundation.

What parts does an outdoor chimney consist of?

As already mentioned, the most popular and most reliable of the street ones are sandwich chimneys. A standard pipe sleeve must be routed through wood with particularly careful fire protection, which only sandwich technology can provide. At the same time, there should be no pipe joints at the point of transition through the wall! So, what parts does an outdoor chimney usually consist of, which is led out through the wall? This:

Pipes;
Tees;
Elbow for bending the pipeline in the desired direction;
Chimney support;
Clamps. Distance between clamps when attaching to the wall: 60-100 cm;
Tee with revision, i.e. door for cleaning the chimney;
A condensate collector with a spout for removing it.

Ventilation of aerated concrete house

The big advantage of turnkey gas silicate block projects is their rapid erection and reasonable price. But having built a house quickly, it is not at all necessary that you will be able to live in it comfortably and with dignity. Helps you avoid climatic discomfort correct calculation– the minimum value of the air exchange rate for residential buildings and rooms is 1m3, and the temperature is 22 degrees C.

Ventilation and air conditioning system in a house made of foam blocks Photo: cottage made of gas silicate blocks in Odintsovo

Reach the corresponding values sanitary standards without serious costs, you can use a complex of natural and forced ventilation. A modern ventilation system is designed with air recovery, which reduces heat loss by 20-30%. This corresponds to heat loss from the air channels of aerated concrete blocks.

Project of a climate system for a house made of gas silicate blocks

The principles of climatic comfort and budget construction. In order for the temperature and humidity parameters and air exchange rate in the aerated concrete house to comply with SNiP standards, the following equipment was installed:

ventilation shaft on the roof – natural ventilation;
Helios fans, Wolf supply and exhaust unit, Hidria supply and exhaust unit – supply and exhaust ventilation;
compressor-condensing unit with freon lines – air conditioning;
fire damper, air damper - smoke removal;
automation for Klimair2/ Topair – automation;
silencers GTP1-5, galvanized air ducts - consumables.

The house was made of ultra-light autoclave-dried foam concrete blocks. After putting into operation the ventilation and air conditioning system with automation and smoke removal, climatic comfort was ensured, the house began to “breathe” and ceased to be afraid of humidity. Despite the low permeability of walls made of foam blocks, thanks to forced ventilation, living spaces are no longer stuffy, it has become more environmentally friendly and easy to breathe.

How to build a climate-friendly house

Specialists of the climate control company StroyEngineering LLC will help you properly build a house and organize better system ventilation and air conditioning for your cottages made of foam blocks, dachas made of aerated concrete, private houses made of foam concrete. Experienced designers will select the optimal Technical equipment and will prepare high-quality climate systems for internal comfort in turnkey townhouses and cottage communities.

We offer excellent conditions - favorable prices, fast deadlines, finalization of projects, guarantee of an SRO participant. Management companies, homeowners associations, construction and repair organizations from Moscow and the region - special treatment, discounts on air conditioner servicing!

Qualified specialists will carry out professional installation ventilation equipment, strictly in accordance with the technologies and requirements for installing supply and exhaust ventilation and central air conditioning. Your home made of foam concrete blocks will be provided with a well-designed, comfortable and environmentally friendly climate.

What projects will help create comfortable living conditions?

Calculation and installation of ventilation in a cottage
Supply and exhaust ventilation of the basement - diagram
Ventilation system in baths and steam rooms
How to properly ventilate a garage?

The construction of turnkey foam block houses at low prices was helped by qualified designers and contractors who ordered the development of a climate system from our company.

Ventilation of a panel house

panel house ventilation diagram

The ventilation system of panel houses is a set of concrete structures assembled together, like the children's designer. The ventilation of all panel houses is of the uncontrolled natural type and is based solely on the use of natural phenomena. Air removal occurs due to the difference in temperature and pressure in the ventilation shaft and above the roof of the house. In the apartments, a rarefaction of the atmosphere is formed, which is replenished by the supply air.

According to the house ventilation plan, the exhaust ducts are routed in such a way that air flows do not flow from one apartment to another. It is correct to connect a satellite channel to each bathroom and kitchen of the house, which flows into the ventilation shaft on the next floor. So that in the ventilation of the top floors of Stalin's houses there is no reverse thrust, air ducts emit gases into the atmosphere, bypassing the common riser.

The flow of air into the apartments is planned through slightly open vents, door and window slits. The ventilation of panel houses is not designed for modern construction technologies that ensure complete isolation of apartments from the outside world. Therefore, without modernization, ventilation multi-storey buildings inactive.

Do-it-yourself ventilation modernization

Dampness, weeping windows and the stuffiness makes residents think about how to properly ventilate the house. Most often, attempts to make ventilation in the house with your own hands begin with installing an exhaust fan and a kitchen hood. Before you do it yourself, understand the principles of ventilation in the house:

The home ventilation plan includes exhaust and supply.
Free passage of air flow is ensured inside the apartment.
Clean air is supplied to bedrooms and living rooms, exhaust air is removed from the toilet, bathroom, and kitchen.

supply valve

These are the minimum conditions for proper ventilation in the house. Properly installed ventilation in the house, in addition to the hood, also provides air supply. For this purpose, various supply devices have been developed:

wall and window valves;
compact air handling units;
ventilators.

Any of the listed devices will cope with the ventilation of the apartment in multi-storey building, providing more or less comfort. Valves They supply street air without heating, only filtering it. And here air supply units And compact ventilators warm the inflow without disturbing the temperature regime of the apartment.

Before starting work, order a diagnosis of general exhaust ventilation in a Stalinist house. If the shaft is blocked by neighbors or littered with debris, an exhaust fan will not help.

Calculation and design

Let's look at how to calculate the ventilation system using the example of a one-story house made of aerated blocks. Let's take into account that the house uses natural air exchange, where the hood is installed in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. And the influx is produced through three living rooms. It turns out that for the calculation it is necessary to take into account either the supply volume taking into account the standard, or the exhaust volume. Therefore, both indicators are first calculated and the larger one is selected.

The house has three living rooms with a total area of 100 m² and a ceiling height of 3 m. The air exchange rate in them is 30 m³/hour. That is, general meaning– 90 m³/hour.
Now there are three rooms from which the exhaust occurs: the kitchen - 60 m³/hour, the bathroom and toilet - 25 each. That is, the total air outflow will be 110 m³/hour.

Of the two values, the larger one is 110. This means that we take it for calculation. Now we need to turn to the table value, which is based on two indicators: the height of the hood, let it be equal to 4 m taking into account the roof height, and the temperature inside the rooms - +20C. For these two values, a channel with an area of 204 cm² (0.2 m²) is suitable, which passes through 46 m³ of air mass in one hour.

Now you can find out how many ventilation ducts of this size are required for air outflow in a volume of 110 m³. To do this, you need to carry out one mathematical operation: 110/46 = 2.4, round up, we get “3”. This is the number of required ventilation ducts installed: one in the kitchen, the second in the bathroom, the third in the toilet.

Layout features

For good air exchange, interior doors should not close too tightly. It is necessary to provide special channels for air passage. However, the design itself interior doors does not provide for density. Interior hanging doors create ideal conditions for natural ventilation of the house. Windows in the house should also be equipped with vents, which will allow you to regulate the air exchange rate in one direction or another, this is especially true in the off-season. The stove or fireplace itself is part of natural ventilation. As an addition to the system, you can install a special fan in the kitchen window. All this will allow you to ventilate the room very effectively.

The basics of arranging ventilation ducts

The design of the ventilation duct requires mandatory sealing of the seams

SNiP 2.04.05-86 displays all the requirements for ventilation lines. Ventilation pipes and shafts are combined into one common system ventilation. In case of fire they can pose a danger, so their construction must comply with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003.

Ventilation ducts in a house made of foam blocks cannot be built in external walls. Due to the high likelihood of condensation forming during the cold season.
The mine should be built in a vertical position. If it is erected horizontally, the angle of inclination must be at least 60° to the base of the house.
If the house has rooms with high humidity, then the construction of ventilation ducts in their walls is prohibited. Due to dampness, they may collapse over time.
When the air duct is routed through the roof, at a distance further than 3 m from the roof ridge, the height of the ventilation duct must be at least 50 cm from the roof.

The size of vertical ventilation shafts depends on two main factors - the heat source and the air exchange required for a given building.

For example, if equipment with a thermal power of 3.5 kW, then the ventilation shaft is built with a cross-section of 140 x 140 mm. If the heat source is 5.2 kW, the size of the ventilation shaft is 140 x 200 mm. If the power is greater, then the diameter of the shaft is 140 x 270 mm.

Important! Ventilation shafts are erected at a distance of 40 cm from windows and doors. This indicator also applies to the installation of ventilation ducts

The inside of a channel of any diameter must be smooth, and the seams should be thoroughly rubbed.

Natural ventilation channel in a private house placement rules

The ventilation ducts are a hood natural system ventilation. The flow of air into it is carried out through the leaks of windows and doors, as well as through special channels in the walls. Air from the street passes through all rooms and is discharged into a common house ventilation duct, which has branches throughout the house.

In a private house made of brick or aerated concrete, the laying of ventilation ducts should be provided for the following rooms:

bathroom;
bathroom or shower room;
kitchen;
garage;
cellar;
boiler room.

It is in these rooms that there is a high content of moisture, heat and various contaminants in the air

For safety reasons, special attention should be paid to ventilation of the boiler room and adjacent rooms - gas accumulation occurs in this place.

Why is ventilation needed?

Ill-thought-out air exchange in rooms creates significant discomfort for all household inhabitants, from pets to humans. Not only does this cause significant damage to your wallet, but your health suffers first and foremost. The accumulation of waste products - carbon dioxide and moisture - has an extremely negative effect on humans. In addition, the smell of dampness creates discomfort, so natural ventilation is simply necessary for any household.

As a rule, poor ventilation dramatically shortens the life of a home. Mold and mildew, sudden changes in humidity and lack of flowing air nullify all efforts to keep your home in good condition. Unlike multi-storey buildings, where everything is provided for by the design, in a private house you have to think through the ventilation system on your own. This is a rather labor-intensive process that requires knowledge and experience. However, contrary to popular belief, if you wish, all the worries about the design and construction of an air exchange system can be placed on your shoulders. If you doubt your abilities, it is better not to tempt fate and seek help from a specialist.

What not to do

Professionals strongly recommend not installing aerated concrete in houses load-bearing walls ventilation system channels. This leads to negative consequences, as condensation begins to form in the premises, and heat-saving qualities decrease.

Aerated concrete houses require special attention, so the systems are installed in shafts or partitions designated for these purposes, which are located between the internal walls. This way you can create excellent air exchange with your own hands even in a large building.

Most effective method gaskets - sleeved using a plastic ventilation duct. A ventilation outlet is attached to the aerated concrete structure, this is done in the first block, and the system is routed from it.

Further installation involves cutting out holes of a suitable size where the air duct is laid. Plastic ventilation ducts have their advantages; if they are embedded in the aerated concrete of one of the private houses, then the owners can forget about condensation.

If ventilation is needed in an apartment building, then two types of systems are offered:

Valve in window profile.
Built into the wall.

The second option is not always available because certain technical capacities are required, so window valves are a simple solution, even if you have aerated concrete walls.

If the air flow increases, then you will have to install a reliable and powerful exhaust fan in a multi-story building, which provides a high air exchange rate. The device is selected based on the parameters of the room.

In some cases you will have to install a powerful fan

Foam blocks - made from cellular concrete. They don't highlight harmful substances, lightweight, accumulate heat. The material can withstand temperature changes. The big disadvantage is the long shrinkage time. And the material is not designed for excessively heavy loads. To install air ducts in walls made of foam blocks, it is necessary to line the voids with ventilation ducts with a cross-sectional diameter of 125 to 150 mm. Ventilation ducts can be made of metal, asbestos-cement, or plastic.

The basics of arranging ventilation ducts

SNiP 2.04.05-86 displays all the requirements for ventilation lines. Ventilation pipes and shafts are combined into one common ventilation system. In case of fire they can pose a danger, so their construction must comply with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003.

Ventilation ducts in a house made of foam blocks cannot be built in external walls. Due to the high likelihood of condensation forming during the cold season.
The mine should be built in a vertical position. If it is erected horizontally, the angle of inclination must be at least 60° to the base of the house.
If the house has rooms with high humidity, then the construction of ventilation ducts in their walls is prohibited. Due to dampness, they may collapse over time.
When the air duct is routed through the roof, at a distance further than 3 m from the roof ridge, the height of the ventilation duct must be at least 50 cm from the roof.

The size of vertical ventilation shafts depends on two main factors - the heat source and the air exchange required for a given building.

Important! Ventilation shafts are erected at a distance of 40 cm from windows and doors. This indicator also applies to the installation of ventilation ducts. The inside of a channel of any diameter must be smooth, and the seams should be thoroughly rubbed.

Air exchange indicators

It is imperative to calculate air exchange. It will show the norm, how many times it is necessary to replace the exhaust air in the room in 1 hour. That is, find productivity. To display the full picture, you need to use the formula:

L – productivity;

n – multiplicity according to the specifics of the room. It is specified in SNiP 2.08 01-89 “Residential buildings”. There you can find out the ready-made standardized indicator; it is presented in the table of the air exchange rate of residential buildings.

V is the volume of the room.

Ventilation for a foam block house: types of working diagrams

For any home, insulation is an important point. For ventilation, this factor is also important. Ventilation can be divided into three main areas:

natural;
forced;
mixed.

Such ventilation does not require large financial costs and does not depend on electricity. The only negative is the dependence on weather conditions. In the summer, stagnation of “exhaust air” will form due to the lack of appropriate draft.

Forced ventilation

The circulation of air flows in a foam block house is carried out using mechanical devices. Ventilation of the room can be carried out according to three different schemes:

mechanical exhaust;
mechanical supply;
supply and exhaust mechanical.

In the case of mechanical removal of dirty air, exhaust fans are installed in the air ducts. These devices are divided into:

centrifugal;
axial;
kitchen

Unsuitable air can be discharged directly into the street or into the ventilation shaft. In the latter option, in order to prevent the backflow of dirty air, it is necessary to equip a check valve.

Mechanical supply ventilation is carried out by supplying fresh air through ventilation ducts using air valves and duct air conditioners. It complements natural ventilation. The incoming air flow can be cleaned and heated.

Installation of ventilation ducts

When selecting ventilation ducts, it is necessary to focus on the material the pipe is made of and select the correct cross-sectional diameter. After all, the better the quality of the ventilation duct, the longer it will last.

The shapes of air ducts are:

rectangular;
round.

The latter have less sound insulation. Pipes with a round cross-sectional diameter are installed in houses with high ceilings. A rectangular ventilation duct looks more impressive. However, both of them can be decorated with a box made of thin plastic.

By design, air ducts are:

flexible;
hard.

Corrugated pipes are easy to install because they can take any position and direction. However, when installing at the site of operation, the corrugation must be stretched to the maximum. This is done so that the accordion does not create unnecessary noise when air passes inside the duct. Corrugated pipes are secured with clamps. This type of duct is suitable for kitchen hoods.

Important! When installing ventilation, it is necessary to avoid unnecessary bends. They increase the aerodynamic resistance of passing flows.

PVC air ducts

An important feature is the material from which the ventilation duct is made. PVC air ducts are very popular due to their low price. They are most often used in the installation of ventilation and plumbing systems. According to their characteristics, they have a number of advantages, namely:

resistant to many aggressive chemicals;
do not rust;
light in weight.

PVC is often used when installing forced ventilation. But for now, more expensive metal-based plastic pipes provide worthy competition. They are more advanced in design and do not require an additional insulating layer.

Galvanized ventilation ducts

Galvanized stainless steel ventilation ducts also have their advantages. They are fireproof and can easily withstand temperature changes and excess humidity (during condensation). The downside is the weight - the pipes are quite heavy, which makes installation and fixation difficult.

Important! Pipes made of polymer materials cannot be installed next to chimneys. They do not have fire-resistant properties.

The main element of the natural ventilation system for housing is the general building ventilation ducts, through which stagnant and polluted air is removed from the premises. IN apartment buildings ventilation ducts are necessarily constructed during the construction of a house; they are carried out from the basement to the roof of the building and have access to all apartments.

When constructing private houses, little attention is often paid to the installation of ventilation ducts. They save on the air exchange system, replace it with pipes and allocate insufficient space in the wall for laying ventilation channels. This leads to air stagnation and may be unsafe when using gas heating boilers.

In this material we will tell you how to make bricks, foam blocks and aerated concrete with your own hands.

Natural ventilation channel in a private house: placement rules

Ventilation ducts are an extension of the natural ventilation system. The flow of air into it is carried out through the leaks of windows and doors, as well as through special channels in the walls. Air from the street passes through all rooms and is discharged into a common house ventilation duct, which has branches throughout the house.

In a private house made of brick or aerated concrete, the laying of ventilation ducts should be provided for the following rooms:

bathroom;
bathroom or shower room;
kitchen;
garage;
cellar;
boiler room.

It is in these rooms that there is a high content of moisture, heat and various pollutants in the air. For safety reasons, special attention should be paid to ventilation of the boiler room and adjacent rooms - gas accumulation occurs in this place.

Air ducts in a brick house

Laying brick ventilation ducts is the most common way to organize air exchange in private homes. Brick does not collapse under the influence of hot air, dirt does not form on its walls and moisture does not settle, so the material is often used to organize chimneys and air ducts.

The ventilation duct is a strong vertical structure that extends to a level above the roof. It is important to organize constant movement of air masses in the shaft; to do this, turns and irregularities inside the air duct should be avoided.

Brick for ventilation ducts is resistant to moisture and hot air. A mixture of sand and cement diluted with water is used as a fastening solution.

The dimensions are, as a rule, 12x15 cm, for brick structures - 12x25 cm. The thickness of the walls should not be less than 10 cm. Since a brick ventilation shaft is heavy and creates a strong load, it is installed directly on the foundation of the building.

Stages of work on laying brick ventilation

Ventilation shaft in houses made of aerated concrete and foam concrete

Ventilation in a house made of aerated concrete has its own organizational features. Aerated concrete is an unsuitable material for the construction of a mine - it absorbs moisture, gases, and is susceptible to high temperatures. Therefore, in houses made of aerated concrete, other materials and devices should be used for organizing air ducts:

laying out the channel and adjacent brick walls;
lining the shaft with stable pipes made of metal, asbestos, plastic;
installation of a galvanized box lined with aerated concrete blocks.

Brick ventilation ducts in such buildings are constructed according to the same rules as for brick buildings, but here special attention must be paid to the stability of the structure. For reliability, it is necessary to line the walls adjacent to the shaft with bricks to create support.

The installation of a ventilation duct in an aerated concrete wall can be done using the sleeve method. It consists of securing the outlet in the lower block and distributing the system from this channel. For joining, air ducts are installed in the holes of aerated concrete blocks. Channels can be made of plastic, asbestos cement or galvanized steel. It is also recommended to insulate it in the upper part facing the roof of the house.

In some cases, another method of making air ducts with your own hands is used. In this case, the system consists of channels laid under the ceiling of the rooms, which merge into one shaft under the roof of the house, where stagnant air is removed. The construction of such a structure is cheaper, but it is less efficient due to the horizontal direction of the channels and low throughput. In addition, this scheme is not applicable for two or three-story private buildings.

In a private house made of foam blocks, when installing ventilation ducts, the same rules are used as in buildings made of aerated concrete. This is due to the fact that foam blocks are very unstable to moisture and low temperatures. For the installation of air ducts in such houses, pipes made of PVC, asbestos-cement and metal, as well as brick structures, are used.

Requirements for the organization of ventilation ducts and shaft parameters

For effective and safe work, ventilation ducts in brick and aerated concrete masonry must meet the following requirements:

When the shaft is installed above the roof near the ridge, the ventilation exhaust hole should be half a meter above the level of the ridge.
If the hood opening is located 2–3 meters from the ridge, it can be on the same level with it.
When the distance to the ridge exceeds 3 meters, the mouth should be at an angle of 10° relative to the horizon and with its apex at the ridge of the roof.

Technical requirements require the mandatory organization of ventilation ducts in those rooms where there are no windows (bathrooms, toilets, boiler rooms). It is also recommended to install a hood in the kitchen to avoid the accumulation of steam and smoke in the air.

Ventilation ducts can operate effectively at air temperatures from +12 °C outside and +20 °C inside the house. When the structure cools, the process of ventilation and air removal slows down, so those parts of the shaft that are exposed to the street (pipes on the roof) should be insulated.

The cross-section of the shaft should be the same along its entire length to improve traction inside the structure. When constructing a ventilation duct for blocks, bends should be avoided; the angle of inclination of the pipe should not exceed 30° relative to the walls. If the shaft is made of brick, it should be laid as evenly as possible, and the seams between the rows should be smoothed.

The comfort of living in a house or apartment greatly depends on the correct ventilation settings: it not only refreshes the air, but also removes moisture and odors, preventing the appearance of fungus and mold. This is especially necessary for aerated concrete walls, which strongly absorb air with all the substances contained in it. The constant accumulation of moisture in the room leads to deformation of the outer layer of the walls, which increases thermal conductivity, as well as the formation of cracks in the cold season.

Depending on the purpose, it is divided into subgroups according to four criteria:

air movement factor: natural and mechanical;
in the direction of air movement: supply and exhaust;
according to the size of the service area: general exchange and local;
by method of execution: ducted and ductless.

There are natural systems in every house and apartment: they are activated by the pressure difference between a specific floor of the building and the exhaust device on the roof. The disadvantages are obvious: when the wind direction changes, the exhaust air duct turns into a supply air duct, and this is not always necessary. The problem is solved by installing a mechanical turbine or an electric fan.

To enhance the ventilation effect, for example, in an attic made of aerated concrete, the installation of an air supply device, which will be located at the level of the first floor, will help. It will be very useful due to the control of the input power and the ability to install additional modules responsible for cleaning, disinfecting, heating or cooling air.

Local systems are designed only to circulate air in a specific location: for example, over a stove in a kitchen or in a small office. General exchange systems are aimed at uniform inflow/outflow throughout the entire room simultaneously.

IN duct ventilation air circulates through channels into a single opening, usually located in the attic ceiling of the building. In ductless systems, fans are placed in through wall openings. They are much cheaper than ducted ones, but transmit a large amount of heat to the street. The mechanical ductless design in the form of a wall-mounted module has a good price/quality ratio: it can adjust the power and switch the flow direction. Also successful and modern choice will purchase window valves - they are easy to install and do not require maintenance.

Mechanical systems have only one drawback: the increased cost of purchase, installation and operation. Usually, within the walls of a house built of aerated concrete, all of the above types are combined in different rooms for the effective removal of gases, moisture, and heat.

Hood placement diagram

The holes for the channels are thought out on the diagram before the building is erected, and changing them in the future will be a huge problem. They must be located in the following places:

kitchen;
bathroom;
attic;
bathroom;
boiler room and the room above it;
garage;
swimming pool, sauna.

Channels from all rooms go to the attic or attic, where they are hermetically combined, insulated and brought to the roof. In houses made of aerated concrete, it is not recommended to lay a ventilation duct in external walls- this will lead to serious heat loss. For these purposes, a special shaft must be equipped, or space must be freed up in the internal walls.

It is better to make the air duct from plastic, steel or asbestos cement and insert it into a galvanized box sheathed on all sides with gas blocks. It is believed that the most effective is plastic, because almost no condensation forms on its walls. The outlet of the channel is located on the roof of the building, and at its end there should only be a cone or deflector. Decorating in any way is strictly not recommended.

Another important task is to retain as much heat as possible inside the house. One of the main problems modern houses- large heat losses due to ill-conceived air exchange design. Two things will help you cope with this task:

good sealing of the air duct;
the presence of water air heaters.

Air exchange system design

Often, residents only see the outlet for the hood and the grille, but even the simplest ventilation in a house made of aerated concrete consists of many components:

1. Check valves: These allow air to move only in the required direction. This is useful in winter when you need to keep the cold out from outside.

2. Filters - there are for various purposes: the simplest ones protect against dust, insects and other debris from the street.

3. Heaters - run on water or one electric heating element. Often their installation in homes is not economically profitable.

4. Silencers - usually this silent pipes, covered on the inside with sound-absorbing material. It is recommended to install them close to fans.

5. Fans - there are two types: axial and radial. The first ones are intended for introducing/exhausting air into the room, the second ones are for creating pressure in complex channels.

6. Pumps, compressors - create pressure. Needed only for large multi-storey air exchange systems.

7. Recuperator - an optional but useful element. He does main job to preserve heat, returning up to 2/3 of the thermal energy lost during ventilation to the room.

8. Air distributors - only for large rooms. Serve to distribute the incoming flow evenly throughout the entire space.

The system can be automated by adding temperature sensors and electronic systems management. This, for example, will allow fans and valves to automatically change the direction of flow.

How to avoid mistakes?

It often happens that the ventilation of a private house made of aerated block does not suit the residents in some way, for example:

the walls become damp and mold grows;
windows fog up;
drafts appear when behind closed doors and windows;
works too weakly or too strongly;
small cracks form in aerated blocks;
The hood is louder than it should be.

1. The air duct outlet should not be obscured by anything, and it should be located on the roof.

2. The duct diagram should have as many straight lines as possible: each turn reduces the efficiency of the exhaust system by 10%.

3. Common problem: the wind blows out strangers unpleasant odors. The presence of fans operating in the “inflow” and “exhaust” modes will help cope with it.

4. If possible, install forced ventilation. Passive exhaust grilles hardly work in summer, and in winter they exhaust too much and depend on the direction and strength of the wind.

5. Installing noise suppressors is useful when operating a noisy hood.

6. The presence of a fire damper will allow you to quickly remove smoke if necessary.

7. It is better to entrust the drawing of the air exchange system to a master. A serious design mistake can reduce the efficiency of the hood to almost zero. Only grilles, valves, exhaust outlets, fans and other small elements can be installed independently.

8. The length of the channels in all rooms must be equal or equalized using gratings. Violating this rule will result in decreased cravings.

9. The inlet and outlet openings should be kept away from each other and in different rooms, otherwise drafts and an unpleasant howling sound will occur.

10. You can increase the efficiency of air outflow by placing the outlet openings above heat sources: oven, stove, radiator, etc.

conclusions

For houses made of gas blocks, it is recommended to install a ventilation duct with at least passive air exchange. The porous structure is unable to remove all the moisture received, which is why the walls begin to quickly deteriorate.

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