Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that a quiet life in the house depends on choosing the right option and on competent work.

Why is it necessary?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, to have a full-fledged house by the beginning of the season. In this case, such buildings:

• environmentally friendly;
• are inexpensive;
• serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation frame house done properly.

Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

• Buildings for permanent use by default must have solid thermal protection.
• If you plan to be there only from late spring to late autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

The "framework" designed for summer period, the wall thickness is no more than 70 mm. During the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If we limit ourselves to more thin layer material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either have to freeze or lose a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter accommodation It will be necessary to insulate not the entire volume of the frame, but only its individual parts, first of all:

• stingrays;
• basements;
• attic planes;
• basement structures.

It will not be possible to get by with a heated floor alone, even if its power is excessive. Through the basements external walls and other parts of the structure panel house the heat will flow away just as vigorously. Considering the variety of conditions where insulation will be installed, it is impossible to give a universal answer about the best option. The basement walls are equipped with the same types of thermal protection, load-bearing walls- by others, covering the cold attic - by others. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name suggests, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. This solution allows you to reliably close existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer the external location of insulation- because it does not take up precious internal space, which is always in short supply in dachas and rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, special attention should be paid to preventing heat from escaping through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; Now you can find out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What should you use to insulate?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology involves the use of only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that “one is put down, the other is unwound.” Technologists are aware of the differences in nominal thickness. Typically, increasing the layer thickness increases the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be used incorrectly, and this immediately devalues ​​all the advantages. Therefore, it is better to either turn to professionals, or study the slightest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The vast majority of amateur builders and official firms use the “brilliant four”:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral slabs;
• isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is based on chemical nature(organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and bulk substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly compact the layer being laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Slab materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their pitfalls.

Yes, use it mineral wool V pure form for external wall insulation it is pointless: it will not hold up well and will retain its thermal properties only until the first rain or snow. Required condition Attaching it to a special structure of bars packed vertically turns out to be successful. Each beam is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs passes. You should also take care of external protection from getting wet.

When working, it is important to wear respiratory protection, wear special glasses and not take off gloves.

Polystyrene foam is an organic substance. Its undoubted advantages are:

• low specific gravity;
• protecting walls from strong winds;
• exclusion of rotting.

But these advantages also have reverse side: high fire risks. Therefore, it is impossible to decorate walls with foam plastic that has not undergone special treatment.

Mineral wool is absolutely not prone to ignition. Similar benefit can be obtained by using basalt wool, but it also has a significant advantage - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

Many people call the use of penoizol the ideal solution.

But it also has weak points - after a few years, areas will form where the material will not fit tightly. Therefore, heat loss will increase sharply. Liquid version coatings have more powerful adhesion and last 50–60 years (a guarantee is provided for this period). The disadvantage, however, is also obvious - without special equipment it will not be possible to achieve success. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for retaining heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal insulation of walls of frame buildings using rolled materials is impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be carried out very carefully. It is useful to remember this whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Frame structures are rarely insulated with expanded clay, and even its low cost does not justify this choice. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if it has already absorbed liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum density in dry form, it puts pressure on the walls and foundation very strongly. This circumstance will have to be taken into account during external finishing, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Therefore, you will definitely have to use layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Insulation with stone wool also competes strongly with this material. Working with her slabs is a pleasure; there is no need for complex instruments. Cutting into the required fragments is done with a knife or saw with fine teeth.

Please note: stone wool blocks should not be compressed, tamped or squeezed. This will definitely lead to negative consequences. You also need to use ecowool wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with brown and boric acid, the level of fire hazard will sharply decrease. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by weight) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores functionality. People will also find such advantages as an optimal microclimate, suppression of extraneous sounds, absence of seams and sanitary safety to be attractive. As for possible problems, they are:

• you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfilling in order to guarantee thermal protection;
• You will definitely need specialized equipment;
• if the fastening control was poor, the material may settle;
• Ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulation frame houses sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it exclusively primitive, as modern people often do. Careful consideration of the characteristics of the material allows it to be realized profitably positive features and weaken the negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. You just need to deal with the risk of fire and the establishment of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Sawdust of a large fraction is usually used for the rough insulating layer, and heat retention is mainly ensured by a finer substance. When purchasing or preparing yourself, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material; the quality of thermal protection depends on it.

Adherents of modern materials and the latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is quite widely used when working on floors, including:

• over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
• under attic floors;
• to enhance the acoustic protection of structures separating the floors of the house.

Typically, on the floors of frame houses, polystyrene foam is placed between the joists; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced screed made of cement and sand. The disadvantage of the material (easily eliminated, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - to prevent such a development of events, gaps are needed. It is important to remember that this synthetic substance is flammable and should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it to mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-designed ventilation must be provided in a frame house.

Enter fresh air They are always organized from utility rooms, and the flow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but also uniform distribution of heat in the home will not be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, the following come to the rescue:

• special channels for flow;
• bars across the wall;
• separate channels for the passage of air into a specific room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer, the more stable it usually retains heat. Because It is worth paying primary attention to the density of the structure, it is much more important than a big name or whole line certificates. The only one especially lightweight material, worthy of attention is polystyrene foam (including its modification such as polystyrene foam). Even mineral wool belongs to the simply light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows us to select optimal solution for a wide variety of conditions and situations.

If you need the strongest possible cold blocking (in living rooms and on the floor), it is necessary to use the densest versions. For a non-residential attic, the requirements are lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. cotton insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively light load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

Brand P-125 is already more worthy; it can be used in different procedures:

• covering ceilings and floors;
• thermal insulation of walls;
• thermal protection of partitions;
• suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool of category PZh-175 has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. And most dense material recommended for use in upper parts walls For plaster, experts advise using cotton wool with a specific gravity of 140–160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. The requirements for insulation used in the interior of a frame house are less stringent.

When the home is covered pitched roof, optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, and if you plan to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times higher than the minimum value for mineral wool under flat roof, and for polystyrene foam it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In floors, loose insulation can only be used when laying between joists. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will negatively affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; errors in the selection of insulation can prevent the achievement of this goal. Until recently, to meet environmentally safe way thermal protection was possible only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more accessible. Quite predictably, natural fibers take first place:

• woody;
• linen;
• hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for individual components to penetrate into the external space. There is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool in an environmentally friendly home. Insignificant shards of glass and stone fibers cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause significant harm to health.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic treatment of a number of materials – where it is really needed.

Fire retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely safe. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always maintaining the integrity of the insulating “pie”, from which one or another substance cannot normally escape. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and at the same time quite normal, based on data obtained from medical studies in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming increasingly in demand in frame construction. 1 cu. m of such material costs approximately 3 thousand rubles, and it will last for 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our troubled era, such insulation can reduce the entry of penetrating radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is unclear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions many years later.

Cork structures are easily placed under wallpaper, on interior walls ah and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Review of manufacturers

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only different kinds insulation materials, but also the professionalism and integrity of individual companies.

Attention: you need to take into account that we will only talk about the truly best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies the market with fireproof thermal insulation made from stone wool. It places emphasis on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use this mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

• pipes;
• facade walls;
• room partitions;
• roofing structures;
• areas experiencing intense loads.

100 mm of such a slab is enough to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

French corporation "Isover" sells glass wool to its consumers in roll, slab or matte configurations. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of the products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also meets the necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that are easy to install even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which uses significantly less phenol in production, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

• slabs of moderate rigidity;
• products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
• hydrophobic structures of increased density;
• products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of what specific substance is used, the thickness of the insulation must be carefully calculated. If you miscalculate this indicator, you will end up with either an insufficient effect or excessively high costs for purchasing thermal protection and working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers left without supervision, making sure that no one is checking them, will sooner or later “make a mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by indicators such as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat loss - but its disadvantages prevent wide application this material. When making calculations, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a certain area. So, in Moscow and its environs the recommended layer of most good insulation materials does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use such a number of them for Far North, the result will be disastrous for the residents.

A standard formula of the form δut = (R – 0.16 – δ1/λ1 – δ2/λ2 – δi/λi) × λut has the following components (sequentially):

• thermal resistance of structures in a specific area;
• total thickness of all layers;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• the ability of insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation has been chosen, the calculations have been made, it’s time to get ready for work properly. You definitely need to choose necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the slightest nuances.

• With the dry insulation option, the “raw material” can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal structures of the frame being created. It is also useful to select materials that are consistent with the material. decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, vapor barriers.
• The “wet” scheme is implemented using water-based adhesives.

Typical tools for insulating walls and roofs include:

• screwdriver;
• guns for applying polyurethane foam;
• hammers;
• jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
• perforator;

• spatulas;
• hydraulic levels;
• roulette;
• metal scissors;
• containers for preparing solutions, and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it greatly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, it is worth trying to purchase high-quality tools and supplies. All devices purchased specifically or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark precise right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Among all the hammers, the machinist's type is best suited.

It is suitable for processing any surfaces. On the one hand, such a tool is smooth and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is pointed, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nail puller. You can separate polystyrene foam and other insulating and decorative elements into pieces using fine-tooth saws. The teeth should be specially set and sharpened in a special way.

For cooking building mixtures Only mixers with a spiral-shaped working part made of strong steel grades are quite suitable. Using rollers, it is easy to apply primers and a variety of paints, even if the surface is very rough or rough. To apply the adhesive solution for subsequent implementation of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use Swiss ironing tools with teeth. The optimal tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm, it is determined by the manufacturer of the façade systems.

Self-coverage

In any case, the step-by-step instructions require installing a layer that protects from moisture. The only exception is made for those situations where such protection is already in place outside (or inside). The reason is simple - two-way blocking of water deprives it of outlet. The liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually destroy them.

The first step is usually to measure the external surfaces and cut the waterproofing material according to their size.

Next comes work with the vapor barrier. This point cannot be avoided even when hydrophobic or neutral substances that tolerate contact with water are used for insulation. After all, besides them, the “pie” also includes other parts that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it would be correct to use a special film or foamed polyethylene to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the frame racks, ensuring maximum tight pressure against the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in film is a violation of the standard scheme - until all components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished do they begin to work with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is to cover the walls from the inside. Without competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented particle boards. It is recommended to install gypsum boards if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, thanks to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only preparation for the real finishing touches.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to obtain the latest and adequate information on all problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width of the frame board should be in a certain case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand safety measures and the storage and transportation of each insulating coating better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when attaching structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the “pie”. But communication with knowledgeable people helps correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, try to prevent condensation coming from warm rooms from getting on it. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many pitfalls. The choice of material for cladding is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - but meanwhile, a thoughtful design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural insulation, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: master classes again help here.

To find out which insulation retains heat better, see the following video.

To do this, the surface of the walls of the house, both outside and inside, is covered with a vapor barrier film, and then the resulting cake is supplemented with a layer of plasterboard or lining.

Thus, insulation frame walls DIY process occurs in several stages, as required by the technology. The resulting pie can be saturated from the inside with extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

To prevent the formation of cold bridges when laying frame insulation made with your own hands, followed by overlapping the resulting joining seams and the entire previous layer, which forms the pie on the outside.

After the insulation has been installed outside with your own hands, it is best to cover the outer layer with polystyrene foam or cotton wool, and put a windproof membrane on top, which can be secured with a stapler.

The resulting insulation cake of the frame structure is covered with lathing on the outside; it is needed to hold the insulation as in the case.

It is best to make the lathing yourself from a material such as wood. The sheathing will not only hold the insulation, but will also form a ventilation gap inside frame facade, which will be located between the membrane and the sheathing located outside.

The insulation of a frame structure can be carried out either with polystyrene foam or with mineral wool. In order to insulate the surface of a frame house, you can use not only polystyrene foam or cotton wool, but also choose alternative material for insulation

2 Types of mineral wool for insulating a frame house

Before choosing mineral wool for insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with its main types, their features and characteristics. Now wool for insulation has three varieties, these are:

• Glass wool;
• Slag;
• Stone (basalt) wool.

If you are going to choose glass wool to insulate a frame structure, then keep in mind that the thickness of its fibers is 5-15 microns with a length of 15-50 mm.

Thanks to such fibers, glass wool is quite elastic and durable. When insulating walls using glass wool, you should take care in advance of the availability of funds personal protection– gloves, thick overalls and a respirator. Mineral wool made using fiberglass will differ:

• The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.052 watts per meter per Kelvin as at;
• Permissible heating temperature of +500 degrees Celsius;
• The permissible cooling temperature is -60 degrees Celsius.

Slag wool is made using blast furnace slag. The thickness of its fibers can reach 12 microns, with a length of 16 mm.

Due to the fact that slags have residual acidity, being in a damp room, they can affect metal surfaces with a high degree of aggressiveness.

Slag wool has a tendency to absorb excessive moisture. Because of this, it is not very well suited for providing thermal insulation for the facades of frame buildings.

The material has a high degree of fragility, therefore, if you pick it up in your hands, it will prick. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this substance is 0.48 watts per meter per Kelvin, and the maximum permissible heating temperature is +300 degrees Celsius.

The level of hygroscopicity of slag wool is quite high and this is an example. Stone wool has approximately the same fibers as slag wool.

However, compared to polystyrene foam, it has several undeniable advantages. The fibers of stone (basalt) wool do not prick, so it is quite safe to work with it.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of basalt wool is up to 0.12 watts, at a maximum heating temperature of +600 degrees Celsius. Basalt wool is made using diabase, but the structure of this insulation also contains substances such as:

• Clay;
• Limestone;
• Dolomite.

Basalt wool also contains formaldehyde resins. As the volume of such substances decreases, the material becomes less resistant to moisture, but at the same time the likelihood of evaporation harmful substances decreases significantly.

Basalt wool is also characterized by the fact that it does not contain additional elements. This insulation is capable of withstanding a temperature increase of +1000 degrees Celsius, with a maximum cooling threshold of up to -190 degrees.

Fiber made from basalt wool is in most cases presented in the form of rolls, and sheet material is convenient for filling mats. The flammability of this substance is minimal; the fibers do not catch fire, but only melt.

2.1 Which cotton wool is most suitable?

Any of the modifications of the presented insulation is highly hygroscopic. Therefore, if moisture gets behind the surface of the frame sheathing, mineral wool immediately loses all its thermal insulation benefits.

In this case, it becomes wet and caking, as during application. A section of the wall becomes open and cold air begins to flow through it.

To avoid such consequences, modern developers actively use for insulation frame buildings mineral wool, which is in a protective polyethylene sheath.

In order to insulate walls in a frame house, it is best to give preference to tiled materials rather than those packaged in rolls.

It is quite convenient to work with such insulation; it will not slip or caulk. The material, which contains a fair amount of phenol-formaldehyde resins, has a high degree of resistance to constant exposure to moisture.

The material stuffed with small fibers is distinguished by its high thermal insulation properties. It is recommended to use mineral wool with a thicker layer.

2.2 Stages of insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool should be placed in the spaces between the frame posts. In this case, it is important to take into account the value of the distance so that there is no gap between the tile or roll material.

The same applies to the space between the supports. In the process installation work It is strictly forbidden to press cotton wool, as this will significantly reduce its thermal insulation ability. This is directly related to the reduction in layer thickness.

The main reason lies in the structural features insulation material. Inside it, air masses act as a heat accumulator, and as a result of compression of the fibers, the number of cavities in which air can be retained is significantly reduced.

Roll-type insulation is attached to the inside of the sheathing using staples or a construction stapler.

In this case, the intervals should be equal, but the distance between them should be no more than 30 centimeters.

In cases where mineral wool is used, walls and ceilings acquire reliable and high-quality vapor barrier.

In addition, in order to improve its characteristics, it would be rational to use breathable membranes. The use of polyethylene is not recommended, since due to a sharp temperature change, condensation will begin to form on its surface.

The walls of a frame house should be insulated from the inside. Cotton wool is laid on the ceilings using boards. Plates of material should not be placed end-to-end to each other to prevent deformation of the internal structure of the material.

When using insulation boards enclosed in a polyethylene shell, care must be taken to ensure that its tightness and integrity are not compromised.

2.3 Insulating the walls of a frame house using mineral wool (video)

For year-round operation of a frame house and its long-term service, high-quality insulation is necessary. Everything needs to be insulated - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable to solve the problem, and which heat insulators are better to refuse? We will answer these questions and provide step-by-step instructions for insulating a house with your own hands.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The frames of houses built using “Canadian” technology are assembled from OSB boards or wood. To ensure that the insulation does not cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability – not less than 0.32 Mg.

Fiber heat insulators – mineral wool materials – absolutely meet this requirement. Popular synthetic insulation materials, such as polystyrene foam and similar polymer based, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:

1. Firstly, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). The result is the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
2. Secondly, polystyrene foam and its analogues do not allow wood to “breathe”. This leads to moisture accumulation, mold and rotting of structural elements.

When choosing how to insulate a frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, you should also take into account the additional properties of the heat insulator. The following indicators are welcome:

• fire safety;
• environmental friendliness;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to shrinkage;
• minimal water absorption.

Choosing the optimal insulation

Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for insulating a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine basic characteristics and scope of application. The general advantages of all types of mineral wool include: low weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.

The main disadvantage of fiber insulators– hygroscopicity. To preserve the insulation properties, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Basalt wool - environmentally friendly and fireproof

The main component of the insulation is rocks of volcanic origin: basalite, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is absolutely not flammable material, capable of withstanding temperatures of 1000 °C. The heat insulator retains physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of basalt-based mineral wool:

• low thermal conductivity – 0.36-0.42 W/m*C;
• resistance to mechanical stress;
• good noise insulation characteristics;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations.

The insulation contains hydrophobic additives that ensure rapid removal of moisture. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50 kg/cubic. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool compared to fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.

Glass wool – elasticity and moisture resistance

The basic components of the heat insulator are broken glass and sand. The addition of binding components makes it possible to form rolls from the finest glass fibers. Approximate dimensions of the mats: thickness – 100 mm, width – 1200 mm, length – 10 m.

Features of glass wool:

• high elasticity – the material easily takes on and quickly restores its given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
• vibration resistance;
• not susceptible to mold and unattractive to rodents.

Like rock wool, fiberglass is fire resistant. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:

1. Unsafe material - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and when cutting, a lot of “glass” dust is released.
2. Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of the formation of cold bridges increases.

Ecowool – versatility of use

A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microorganisms and reduce flammability.

Distinctive features of ecowool:

1. Ecowool is a loose insulation material, and therefore the technology for its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a thermal insulation layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
2. If the walls of a frame house are poorly insulated, there is risk of ecowool shrinkage, which is fraught with the formation of uninsulated zones.
3. The material is not recommended for use near open fire sources, fireplace pipes and chimneys. A protective layer of basalt foil-clad fireproof mats or fencing made of asbestos-cement slabs is required.

The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the ability to insulate hard-to-reach places and high sound insulation qualities.

“Warm wood” - an alternative to mineral wool

This group is represented mats and boards made of wood fiber materials. The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation are at a fairly high level:

• good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
• preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when absorbing moisture in a volume of 20% of its own weight;
• high strength and excellent sound insulation – protection from impact and “air” noise;
• sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the frame posts without additional fasteners;
• environmental friendliness of the material and safety of installation work.

Wood fiber insulation “breathes” and helps maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and flammability.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step-by-step instructions

In most cases, it is used to insulate frame structures. mineral wool in the form of mats. Therefore, subsequent instructions will be based on working with this material.

Preparatory activities

The first thing you need to do is understand the structure of the insulation cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for installation. It doesn’t matter which side to start the work from - outside or inside. Some people believe that it is more convenient to perform thermal insulation from the street side. However, weather factors must be taken into account.

The standard structure of a thermal insulation cake with the order of layers from the internal cladding to the facade of the house:

• Decorative finishing indoors.
• OSB board.
• Vapor barrier.
• Insulation layer.
• Windproof membrane.
• Lathing made of bars for arranging a ventilation gap.
• OSB board.
• External cladding.

Recommended pitch of frame beams – 580-590 mm. This range is optimal when using standard mineral wool mats 60 cm wide. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for temperate climates is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two sizes: 50 and 100 mm.

Surface preparation comes down to cleaning off dust, removing protruding nails and blowing in the cracks with foam between the frame elements. Before attaching the insulation, it is necessary to check the wooden structures for dampness, and dry the problem areas with a hair dryer.

Interior finishing: sequence of layers

First you need to prepare the base for laying the insulation. WITH inside at home this role will be fulfilled vapor barrier film and OSB boards.

Procedure:

1. Roll out a roll of insulating material and cut it to the size of the walls of the house.
2. Alternately fasten the vapor barrier sheets to vertical racks frame using a stapler. Installation rules: insulating strips are directed perpendicularly wooden beams, minimum overlap – 10 cm.
3. Check the tightness of the protective layer.
4. Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
5. Secure the panels to the frame, covering the vapor barrier film.

In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying the final finishing to the walls.

Rules for installing insulation

An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of installation with your own hands. Both heat insulators are quite elastic, so they do not require additional fixation. The slabs are inserted between the frame posts and are held in place due to the slight difference in size.

To ensure that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its effectiveness over time, it is necessary to follow certain rules for its installation:

1. Laying is done in two layers, the slabs are placed in a checkerboard pattern. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the joining seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of “cold bridges” that contribute to the accumulation of condensation and dampness.
2. Insulation boards need protection from strong wind and precipitation. By analogy with the internal wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.

The film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For more reliable fastening, you can use a counter-latching system.

External wall cladding

The beams attached on top of the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the thermal insulation material and the exterior finish. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.

Under and siding different types Moisture-resistant OSB boards are nailed onto the sheathing, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, a natural stone or facade tiles are laid directly on oriented strand boards.

Thermal insulation of a house roof

High-quality roof insulation is of great importance in preserving heat. Thoughtful and well-executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular insulation option is placing mineral wool between rafter legs. The roofing pie must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.

Let us describe sequentially, how to properly insulate a roof:

1. Stretch water-repellent tape along the outer end of the rafters. diffusion film. Secure the membrane with a counter-batten.
2. From the inside rafter system lay insulation. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation pattern is a checkerboard layout.
3. Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing the horizontal laying of the vapor barrier in the direction from bottom to top. The overlap of film insulation is 5-10 cm.
4. Cover the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
   Exterior finishing the roof is carried out using counter-lathing. Sheathing bars are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards are attached on top or directly roofing material(slate, corrugated sheets, metal or flexible tiles).

Insulation of the first floor floor

A lot of heat also escapes through the foundation of the house - about 15-20% of heat costs fall on the floor. Alternatively, you can organize a water underfloor heating. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.

Fasten the canvases together with reinforcing tape, running it along the joining lines.

Install a log system made of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Cut out the insulation for the cells in the joists. The size of the heat insulator should exceed the distance between the boards by 1-2 cm - this gap is necessary for tight joining and eliminating gaps. The thickness of the insulation is at least 200 mm.

Cover with a vapor barrier film, and lay plywood or a finished plank floor on top.

The described technology is suitable for insulating interfloor or attic floors.

A variety of methods for using ecowool

The second most popular material for thermal insulation of frame buildings is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. Mechanized backfilling will ensure the required density and uniformity of laying.
There are three methods of using ecowool:

• dry "spray";
• wet application;
• glue method.

Dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling interfloor ceilings and non-demountable structures. The packing density of ecowool using this method is 45-65 kg/cubic meter. m depending on the slope.

Wet technology Suitable for vertical open walls. Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied to the surface under pressure. The density of the thermal insulation layer is about 65 kg/cu.m. m.

The adhesive method is similar to the previous one, but instead of water, an adhesive component is added. Advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. Glue method indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, option will do and for wall treatment.

The issue of insulating a house needs to be thought through at the construction stage. This is more profitable from a financial point of view and technically correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to carry out major renovation buildings after commissioning.

Video instructions for do-it-yourself thermal insulation

More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.

The advantage of any frame house is its practicality and attractive external characteristics for individual types of development. The only and most significant drawback of this structure is low thermal insulation.

To eliminate this factor, the frame house is insulated with mineral wool according to a scheme that takes into account all the structural features of the building. Thanks to the right technology and strict adherence to the instructions, you can easily insulate a frame house with your own hands.

Selecting insulation: characteristics of mineral wool

Among the presented types of thermal insulation materials, mineral basalt wool, fiberglass or ecowool are most often used for insulating frame houses. Much less commonly used are polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and expanded clay. Such a high popularity of basalt wool is due to a number of objective reasons, namely:

• environmental friendliness of the material;
• fire safety, withstands temperatures up to 1000°C;
• durability, average service life is about 30 years;
• vapor permeability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• ease of installation.

Basalt mineral wool is a synthetic thermal insulation materials. It has high elasticity and resilience, does not burn, and can withstand heavy loads. The disadvantages of mineral wool include:

1. The presence of formaldehyde resins and small particles that are harmful to human health;
2. Exposure to moisture.

To prevent the release of harmful substances into the air, the insulation on top is tightly covered with a special film, which at the same time serves to protect the mineral wool from moisture and various precipitation. When installing a heat insulator on the walls of a frame house, you should carefully perform not only vapor insulation, but also waterproofing.

This will protect the facades from the appearance of condensation inside the walls, dampness in the room, the development of fungi, changes in temperature conditions and other negative consequences that may occur when the insulation gets wet. It is worth noting that it is preferable to use basalt wool in slabs rather than in rolls for insulating frame houses, since they are denser and when used, the wool does not shrink so much in the wall, forming cracks in the wall.

In addition, it is especially worth highlighting ecowool, which is a safer material than basalt wool, but at the same time, in terms of its thermal insulation and strength characteristics, it is absolutely not inferior to it. Ecowool is a good heat and sound insulator, which is designed for a long service life (about 50-70 years).

Insulation placement diagrams

As a rule, when insulating frame houses, the main thermal insulation work is performed with the following structural elements:

• floors on the first floor;
• attic floors;
• mansard roof;
• external walls.

Thermal insulation of all these elements is carried out taking into account construction schemes, based on the design of the building itself. The construction of such buildings can be carried out in two ways.

Frame-panel

The production of the presented frame houses is carried out in factories, and the integral assembly of the building itself is carried out on site using the supplied components. Thermal insulation for such production is already provided by the manufacturer, so the owner only needs to correctly install and mount the insulation into the walls of the structure, taking into account the requirements and instructions noted in the instructions.

Frame-frame

This method involves building a house according to an individual project. IN finished form Only profiled timber is purchased, all other finishing elements are purchased separately. Therefore, when constructing such a building, the insulation scheme and installation of materials are carried out independently.

Video “Insulation of a frame house”

Video instructions for performing thermal insulation work.

Insulation installation diagram

Installation of mineral wool is quite simple, however, this process requires certain training and qualifications. First of all, the work begins with covering the internal walls with chipboard slabs, the joining of which is carried out on beams and strapping beams. After which, for their further finishing, they use eurolining or plasterboard, under which a vapor barrier film is laid. And only then the insulation is installed on top.

The heat insulator is laid in layers, the number of which is calculated based on the climatic conditions in the region. It is worth noting that the installation of new layers should be carried out in such a way that the seams of the previous layer overlap the next one. When insulating the walls of a frame house, mineral wool is laid in layers not on the inside or outside, but between the frame posts. This allows you to significantly reduce the thickness of the walls, increase living space and build a building in a shorter time.

Double-layer insulation

This method of insulation requires the presence of a ventilated layer, the thickness of which should be more than 4 cm. This allows for the circulation of cold air currents between the surface of the mineral wool and the wall. When performing two-layer external insulation on the facade of a frame house, it is necessary to adhere to the laying of layers in the following order:

1. Interior finishing stage.
2. Performing vapor barrier.
3. Thermal insulation with mineral wool in two layers.
4. Installation of a windproof membrane.
5. Installation of OSB-3 on the sheathing.
6. Performance exterior finishing facade.

The complexity of the work and the peculiarity of floor insulation in frame houses directly depends on the foundation of the building itself. For most of these houses, pile-screw types of foundation are used. Therefore, first of all, when insulating floors, it is necessary to use waterproofing.

Houses located on logs that can be climbed under are insulated with a waterproofing film from below. To install it, you can use a regular stapler. The film is covered on top with cladding boards, which are nailed both closely and at a distance of up to 40 cm from each other.

If the distance from the ground is small, then rows of boards are placed under the logs, on top of which a film is laid from the inside. Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists on a waterproofing film.

The pitch between the joists should be approximately 58-59 cm, since standard sizes The wool slabs are 60 cm wide.

The mineral wool is laid in several layers, its thickness is approximately 15 cm. A vapor barrier film is attached to the top of the mineral wool and the log. Double-sided tape. Plywood, OSB or boards are laid on top of the film, so that their edges rest tightly against the walls. Thanks to this, moisture and dust will not enter the house.

Wall insulation scheme for a frame house

Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out both outside and inside the house. The materials used for this purpose are the same, the only difference is the thermal insulation technology.

Thermal insulation of external walls

External wall insulation consists of several stages. First of all, the frame with outside lined with OSB boards maintaining a distance between them of 3-4 mm. Then they use it to fill the gaps. polyurethane foam. Mineral wool is protected by a waterproofing film that is stretched over its entire surface. Double-sided tape is used to insulate the seams.

The final element when decorating the walls is siding. To install it, a frame is created from beams, to which it is attached finishing material. On the other hand, insulation boards are installed between the frame. It is noteworthy that the density of such slabs should be about 35-50 kg/m³. It is securely fixed and does not sag or roll over time.

Having completed the installation of the heat insulator, all gaps formed should be eliminated using polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to stretch a vapor barrier film on the inside, which will protect the mineral wool from moisture and fumes. After which the film is covered with OSB sheets, plywood and boards.

Insulation of walls inside the house

The internal walls of frame houses are insulated for sound insulation. In addition to mineral wool, other types of insulation and soundproofing materials can be used for this. Unlike external insulation, it is not advisable to use waterproofing films; you can do without them.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of frame houses

One of the key aspects of residential thermal insulation is ceiling insulation. As a rule, this stage is carried out while the roof is not yet assembled, since nothing should interfere with laying mineral wool on top of the ceiling.

The vapor barrier film is attached to the ceiling beams. Then a board, plywood or OSB board, the thickness of which is 2.5 cm. The insulation is fastened to the plywood, according to the same principle as when insulating other structures. Mineral wool must be laid across the entire width of the ceiling, taking into account the overlap of the width of the walls.

If the attic is not used for living, there is no need to install membrane film. For cladding, you can use plywood or a regular board. If it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from above, then internal insulation should be performed by tying insulation boards to the ceiling. Then the ceiling is covered with vapor barrier film and plywood sheets.

Considering that warm air masses rise upward, if insulation is incorrect, the house will lose a huge amount of heat.

Roof insulation

Thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house is carried out by analogy with the thermal insulation of the ceiling, but has some differences. A waterproofing film is attached to the upper surface of the mineral wool to protect the insulation from external factors (wind precipitation).

Hemming of the vapor barrier film is carried out on the underside of the rafter system; it is lined with hemming boards or plywood sheets. After that, sheets of insulation are laid on the outside so that they are covered with a waterproofing film covered with counter lathing. At the end, the roofing is lathed and the roofing material is laid.

Thermal insulation of the roof is best done from the outside, since pieces of cotton wool fibers will not fall down, getting into the eyes and lungs.

If the roof is already assembled, then the roof can be insulated from the inside. But such work is more labor-intensive because it becomes necessary to strengthen the mineral wool slabs before stretching the vapor barrier film.

Video “Thermal insulation of a house on a frame basis”

Informative video on how to insulate a private house with your own hands.

In the previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with your own hands. Now, we will look at instructions on how to properly insulate it and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation it remains for a long time reliable protection from frost in the cold season, and also saved from the sweltering heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is better for a frame house; this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it is worth noting that about 80% of the total number of frame houses are insulated with mineral wool or insulation based on it. Taking this into account, this step-by-step instruction, basically, will be based precisely on such insulation.

• In addition to mineral wool, there are several other types of insulation that are, to one degree or another, suitable for use as thermal insulation for frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
• Insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in exactly the same way as with insulation based on mineral wool, so we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
• Mineral wool, compared to other types of insulation, is the most universal material. It is used to insulate not only frame houses, but also any others. It is used as insulation almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment such as gloves, goggles and a respirator. Contact with skin can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the floor of a frame house

The technology of floor insulation largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most frame houses are currently built on a pile-screw foundation, this is what we will start from when insulating the floor.

1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor joists that will hold both waterproofing material, and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.
2. If the house is located high relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first a waterproofing membrane is stretched under the floor joists and secured with a furniture stapler. The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that there is no leakage from under the floor. Find out from the manufacturer which side the material is stuffed in and which side is out.
3. Also, from below, on top of the waterproofing, a board is made. The size of the board and the installation pitch are not particularly important, but no more than 40-50 cm, as long as this is enough to prevent sheets or strips of mineral wool from falling through. Sometimes the board is packed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. This is what you should end up with:
   
4. If it is impossible to crawl under the house, then a board is first placed under the joists, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the joists from inside the frame house, as shown in the photo.
   
5. When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is laid between the floor joists of the frame house. It is necessary to lay it tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool is cut with a sharp knife, you can use a construction knife, but always a little longer than the required length, about 1 cm.
   
6. For ease of installation, the distance between the logs is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60cm. This means that the distance between the joists should ideally be 58-59cm.
   
7. The thickness of the insulation layer completely depends on the region where the frame house is being built, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the floor joists of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than the width of the board or timber from which they are made.
   
8. An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer must overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20cm.
   
9. On top of the mineral wool, inside the frame house on the logs, it is necessary to fix a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be taped with double-sided tape, for example.
   
10. Plywood, OSB board is laid over the vapor barrier membrane, or a board is sewn together, which will be the basis for further finishing.
    

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not a wind barrier, so the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from getting between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located entirely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both of them.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside; this does not change the materials used and their quantity. We will look at insulation from the inside; everything is done from the outside in exactly the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the external walls of the house

It is worth immediately noting that when covering a frame house outside and inside with your own hands, various materials are used; they may be different from those that I describe in this instruction. The order of actions may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same, as in the diagram. This approximate diagram, for example, instead of OSB boards, on one side you can pierce the sheathing with slats or a 25mm thick board. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the rigidity of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

1. The outside of the frame is sheathed with OSB boards, with gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, usually 2-3mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is what it looks like from inside the house:
   
2. Then, also from the outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external Finishing work, such as installing siding, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips to make the joint tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.
   
3. From the inside of the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.
   
4. It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50 kg/m3. Less dense insulation will settle or roll to the bottom, which will lead to the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.
   
5. Just like with the floor, layers of mineral wool should be laid so as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets by at least 15-20cm. The total thickness of insulation depends on the climate zone, but the average value is also 15 cm.
6. After all the insulation has been laid in the walls, it is necessary to fill with foam all the small voids formed at the joints of the boards and beams.
   
7. A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from inside the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the house. On top of which, most often, the same OSB sheets are stuffed as on the outside, but you can also use boards, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in installing a vapor barrier membrane is that internal corners it could not be tightened, and the vapor barrier completely followed the angle of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the trim at the corners.
   

It is worth noting that this entire procedure can be done in reverse, first stretch the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the internal cladding material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool can be done from the outside.

Insulation of internal walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of insulating the internal walls of a frame house are:

If it is not possible, or there are no strict requirements for the soundproofing of internal partitions, it will be sufficient to use the same insulation as for external walls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most critical aspects of thermal insulation of the entire house as a whole.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:

Since warm air tends to rise upward, if the ceiling or roof is not insulated correctly, it will escape from the house. maximum amount heat.

Insulating the roof of a frame house with your own hands

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of a frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.

The insulation technology is practically no different from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, with the exception that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from the external aggressive environment.

This is how the thermal insulation layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:

Here are a few features that will help make the DIY insulation process easier:

It is worth noting that the roof can also be insulated from the inside if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fastenings, before stretching the vapor barrier material, so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of insulation

All preparatory work in terms of thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, they are no different. The differences, and even then minor ones, are in the installation of the insulation itself, which will be discussed further.

Now let's look at the main differences between insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene (foam) and EPS

If you dig around on the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, polystyrene foam for frame houses is not the best option, although it will be the warmest, with the same insulation thickness, and why is a separate topic for discussion.

The process of insulation with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam is practically no different, so they can be combined. Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

1. Polystyrene foam does not always fit between the joists as tightly as mineral wool, so all cracks and voids must be removed using polyurethane foam or similar materials.
2. Expanded polystyrene is a flammable material; this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion should not come into contact with it.
3. When using polystyrene foam, it is necessary to take care of improved ventilation, because this material practically does not allow air to pass through.
4. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam practically does not allow or absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing for the house. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers must still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the wood itself from which the frame of the house is assembled.
5. Expanded polystyrene is very fond of rodents who make their moves in it, so you need to take care that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences in the use of polystyrene foam boards and insulation based on them. Otherwise, everything is done exactly the same as in the case of insulation with mineral wool.

Features of insulating a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool - relatively new material for insulating not only frame houses. It can be used as insulation in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

1. Despite the fact that ecowool insulation can be done without special equipment, I still would not recommend doing so. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, manually prepared ecowool has less good characteristics, both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
2. Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, so waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
3. It is necessary to apply ecowool with a reserve, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
4. When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It is worth noting that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because now there is a huge selection of materials with much best characteristics, but still I’ll tell you a little about it.

1. Expanded clay in dry form, as insulation, can be used either for insulation of the floor or ceiling, it can also be used for insulation interfloor ceilings. Using it in walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, not justified.
2. Very often, expanded clay insulation is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
3. The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, underneath the joists, must be pierced either with a board at the joint or with some kind of plywood materials.
4. It is better to use expanded clay of a small fraction, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that describing each of them does not make much sense.