Wooden house construction is gaining momentum, which is no wonder, because living in an environmentally friendly building in the age of the concrete jungle is much healthier. It is quite possible to build your dream home yourself, provided that the owner of the suburban area has carpentry skills. Below are descriptions of the important processes preceding such work, the answer to the question of how to make a log house with your own hands, as well as recommendations for its operation after installation.

Scheme for assembling a house made of timber.

Site preparation

What is it? The site must be cleared of any type of vegetation. Moreover, after uprooting all the bushes, you should water the ground with chemicals so that the roots do not stretch out again. If this is not done, then you can wait for the trees to appear in the log house. Perhaps, from a design point of view, it will look stylish and unusual, but broken floorboards and constant dampness are unlikely to suit the owners.

Scheme of preparation of logs for the assembly of a log house.

The cleared site is fenced off, thereby preventing the passage of other vehicles and marking the boundaries of the construction site. It is necessary to ensure the arrival of special equipment, if any, and provide electricity and water to the site. Thus, the area can be considered ready for next stage- foundation.

It would be nice to have a storage area for wood. This is usually a canopy that protects the material from the elements. In addition, it will need to be covered with film if construction is delayed.

Construction of the foundation

Foundation diagram for a house made of timber.

When choosing a foundation for a log house, you should proceed from its size and terrain conditions:

1. Tape. Suitable for any type of building. Works well on problematic soils. You can be sure that the log house will not “go away” over time. Minus - requires large quantity concrete, which cannot reduce the cost of construction, even if you make the log house yourself.
2. Pile. Suitable for light one-story buildings. It behaves well on heaving and rocky soils, reduces construction costs, but you can forget about floor insulation: a blowing wind sweeping snowdrifts under the log house is a common occurrence. It is erected in warm areas.
3. Columnar. First of all, it is intended for damp lands. It is too capricious: after shrinkage, the level will definitely move, so its construction should be left to specialists. Economical.
4. Slab. The most reliable, but expensive. It is a completely poured concrete base. It performs well on problematic soil: it does not lead, does not allow dampness or heaving. Labor intensive.

Below is a description of the installation for strip foundation as the best in terms of price-quality ratio.

Tools for making a log house.

To work you will need:

• shovel;
• level;
• measuring instruments;
• formwork - panels, boards;
• crushed stone, sand;
• fittings;
• insulation;
• concrete pouring.

The process begins with marking. Each bearing wall The log house must be firmly placed on the foundation. With this condition, the outline is outlined. It is very convenient to use wooden stakes and harsh threads.

Then ditches are dug along the marked lines. The soil should be immediately stored separately; it may still be needed. The depth, depending on freezing conditions, cannot be less than 70 cm.

Corner connections of timber frames.

After this, the future foundation needs to be insulated. Styrene is used for this. The slabs are laid on the sides of the ditch and secured with pins, piercing and thus fixing them along the walls. If you neglect the insulation, this will subsequently affect the quality of operation.

The installation of reinforcement begins. It is absolutely necessary for the rigidity of the structure. To do this, steel rods are laid out at the intersection and welded at the nodes and corners of the future log house.

Place the formwork up to the edge ground floor. Shields or boards are strengthened in accordance with the level so that the future foundation is level.

Do concrete pouring. To save money, rubble is poured into the ditch - construction waste: crushed stone, broken bricks, stones, etc. The pouring is carried out slowly, until complete shrinkage, pouring water each time until a milky foam appears on the surface. This is done to prevent the surface of the foundation from cracking. Then it must be given time to completely harden - 2-3 weeks.

Installation of timber frame crowns.

Once the formwork has been removed, immediate construction cannot begin. Shrinkage of the base occurs throughout the year. During this time, it is possible to review all the nuances of the material.

Thus, the construction of the foundation can be considered completed. If the owners want to have some kind of extension in the future, then they need to think about it when planning the site. It is best when the common frame is made on one foundation.

Direct selection of material

Probably, even before walking around the offices, the owners had already decided on the choice of wood for their future brainchild. Based financial opportunities, the material in the log house corresponds to them. An array is considered more expensive, but with it you can be sure that the house will be warm and durable. In addition, due to the beauty of wild or rounded logs, there is no need to decorate it. Profiled or laminated timber will be no less beautiful. In this case, construction with such materials will be easier due to the correct geometric shape of the material.

Types of logs that are used for log houses.

The problem with the question of how to properly make the log house itself lies in cutting the corners. Without the appropriate skill, you can get at least a waste of material. The greater evil is a windswept house. There are many types of felling. The most popular were “in the paw” and “in the bowl”. In the first case, material consumption is reduced, but the corners become cold bridges. In the second, skill is required, but a house with such a log is reliable.

It also makes sense to choose softwood or hardwood. The advantage of conifers is the presence of phytoncides, which protect the tree from mold, mildew and bark beetles. Minus coniferous trees The problem is that, due to their resinous nature, it is not recommended to build baths from them. The resin flows and poses a threat to people with high blood pressure, as it clogs all ventilation. The choice should be optimal in terms of price, decent quality and durability.

The laying of the first crown - the main element in the entire log house - begins. To make it high quality, it is recommended to choose larch for such a task. This tree has established itself as an excellent material that does not interact with moisture. An example of this is the piles in Venice, which stood in the water for many hundreds of years. They were made from Russian larch, by the way.

Scheme for assembling a log frame from a gun carriage.

So, layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation, or it is tarred with bitumen mastic. Then a beam or log with grooves already cut out is placed. Naturally, strictly according to the level. Also, don’t forget to stock up on inter-crown insulation. It could be moss, jute or tow. Although builders refuse the latter. Logs for the subfloor are immediately installed (for the convenience of the entire installation process).

The next crowns do not differ from the installation of the first one. The only difference is that the initial log or beam should be slightly wider than the rest. The work is carried out according to the plan or project, accurately combining the drawings with the realities. That is, window or door openings should be in place immediately, and not later. The fastening material is usually wooden dowels. The use of metal is undesirable, since corrosion will lead to destruction of the wood. Work is carried out to the desired height, placing the crowns with insulation. The last two rows in the log house are not secured with anything. After shrinking, they need to be removed in order to be properly mounted and strengthened. rafter system. Thus, you can build a log house yourself. This is not the most difficult, but responsible job.

Caulk and some construction nuances

Construction, of course, is not finished.

The log needs at least a year for final shrinkage.

Caulking a house made of timber.

After laying the crowns, you can carry out preliminary caulking, but you shouldn’t get too carried away with this. Due to inexperience, you can overdo it, and then the house will turn out crooked, with protruding elements. However, without preliminary caulking, you may subsequently not see construction flaws.

What is caulk? This is the sealing of inter-crown gaps with suitable material. For this purpose, moss, tow, jute, flax and rope are used. Tow is considered the worst. After time, it will turn into dust. In addition, birds love it very much and will pull it out even before the owners start using the house. When purchasing jute, you need to be careful not to purchase jute felt instead. No matter how much the seller assures that its properties are the same as those of the above-mentioned material, it is worth knowing that felt is a favorite delicacy of moths. For beautiful rounded logs, you can use a rope to aesthetic appearance the log house was full.

Caulking is carried out with special tools: a spatula, a mallet and a hammer. The essence of the process comes down to plugging all the cracks and gaps between the logs, even if they are not visible at first glance.

There are two methods: dialing and stretching. The first one is good for thread seals. A thread is twisted from the material and pushed into the cracks by a set of loops. The second is faster and of better quality: the material spreads along the entire length of the log, and one edge is tightly tucked into the gap. The second one is rolled up and sent there. It is worth knowing that caulking is carried out from the bottom up and from both sides of the log house. After another 3-5 years, the process must be repeated.

After caulking, you can erect the roof and begin internal insulation and finishing.

The described process of how to make a high-quality log house yourself is simple only on paper. U wood construction a lot of nuances. You can comply with them provided you take a responsible approach to the matter and study the supporting information. Only then will the operation of a home built by oneself fully please the owners and make them proud of themselves.

Log structures have been popular for many centuries. Currently this is also relevant. Logging a bathhouse with your own hands has certain advantages, such as strength, heat capacity, and besides, it is natural material. But in order to enjoy a log bathhouse, you need to understand the technology of assembling a log house and the rules for caring for it. This article and video are devoted to how to make a log house for a bathhouse with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a log house for a bath

Advantages of the log house:

When starting to build a bathhouse, you must consider the following:

In order for a log building to last for many years, it is made from certain types of trees. Typically, particularly durable and relatively inexpensive varieties are used.

Logs for felling must have a certain size. To construct a log house, logs with a diameter of 20 - 26 centimeters are used. The logs must be the same in thickness and not have bends or cracks.

Log house assembly options

You can assemble a log house with your own hands, but you still need some experience working with wood.

Before starting assembly work, it is necessary to draw up a construction project, on the basis of which the method of attaching the log frame to each other is selected.

The classification of the log house assembly depends on:

• From the layout.
• From the method of fastening the logs to each other.
• From processing logs.

Depending on the layout, the building can be:

• Four-walled (square or rectangular).
• Five-walled (absence in the layout of an intermediate wall made from a log house).
• Figured (hexagonal or semicircular).

There are two methods of attaching logs or beams to each other: “into the paw” and “into the bowl.” They create a stable structure, the difference lies in the creation of special grooves.

The advantage of fastening logs “into a bowl” is that the corners of the log structure are not subject to gusts of wind. The only drawback is the significant increase in wood consumption.

When fastening logs “into the paw”, less wood is consumed, but the building is exposed to the action of winds.

Both of these methods are quite complex, so it is better to visualize them using a video.

Taking into account the specifics of processing, the log house is built from rounded logs and profiled timber. Very rarely, ordinary logs and laminated veneer lumber are used for log houses.

Material for assembling a log house with your own hands

As already mentioned, The log house is built from two materials: rounded logs and profiled timber. They have advantages and disadvantages.

A rounded log is created by processing an ordinary log to an ideal geometric shape. To achieve this, a special machine is used, with which the top layer of the log, which is the most durable, is removed.

As a result, a rounded log is obtained, which has certain advantages:

• Due to its ideal geometric shape, the building acquires perfect view and there is no need to decorate it further.
• The processed rounded log is the same along its entire length. Thanks to this, the building is erected strictly according to the level, without distortions, the joints fit without gaps.
• Log construction usually shrinks over many years. When using rounded logs, the smallest amount of shrinkage occurs.
• When used for a log house, such material makes the building stable and durable.
• Unlike ordinary logs, rounded logs carry less heat loss.

Profiled timber is processed on a special machine. The resulting beam has a flat surface on the sides, and a raised surface in the form of grooves on the top and bottom.

Thus, profiled timber is characterized by the following positive qualities:

• Its cost is lower than rounded logs.
• Thanks to the grooves, the structure is more stable and the construction of the building is faster.
• Due to the flat side surfaces, rainwater will not be able to get into the horizontal joints, so there will be no stagnation and wood rotting.
• Profiled timber has minimal shrinkage.
• It does not need to be subjected to additional decorative processing.
• Due to its light weight, profiled timber is suitable for any type of foundation.

Stages of building a log house with your own hands

To build a log house with your own hands, you should know that this is a very difficult process and requires certain skills. Proper construction of the structure is carried out in several stages.

Prepare the area and pour the foundation. It is necessary to take into account that an individual foundation is prepared for each material. The easiest way to use a strip foundation is because of its strength and ease of construction. After pouring the foundation, it is allowed to settle for a month, and then proceed to the next stage.

A layer of roofing material is laid on the foundation. A board 5 centimeters thick is placed on it, and a layer of tow is laid on top to increase the heat capacity of the building.

The first crown of the log house is laid on the tow. The logs used usually have the most large diameter in the middle of everyone else. Before laying the first crown notches are made on the logs along the entire length 15 centimeters wide. This ensures tight contact of the log with the board.

After laying the first crown, the next crowns are erected to the very top. It is necessary to place tow between them. For the stability of the structure they create finger joint logs

After building a bathhouse from a log house, it is left for at least 1 year for the logs to shrink. It should be noted that shrinkage can deform window openings and other structural elements. To avoid this, it is necessary to make technological gaps that will disappear after shrinkage.

During shrinkage, you can work on the floors and roof because they are not subject to deformation.

After the baths shrink, tow is tamped between the crowns and numerous gaps. Such work is performed every year.

After this, the construction of the log structure will be considered complete. Video attached.

In order for the bathhouse to be in working order for a long time, you need to know the subtleties when building a structure:

• Logs for the log house are harvested in winter. This is necessary because during winter harvesting the log undergoes less rotting and is resistant to various precipitation. To check whether the logs were harvested in winter, iodine is dripped onto them. A bluish spot should form.
• To ensure that the building lasts as long as possible, everything wooden elements structures are treated with an antiseptic.
• To increase the thermal capacity of the structure and give it a beautiful appearance, it is necessary to fill all joints and gaps with tow. It should not protrude further than the logs, otherwise it will get wet and rot.
• If you choose the “foot-to-foot” method of fastening logs, it is necessary to protect the corner joints. To do this, they are sheathed with boards.
• It should be remembered that during shrinkage, the height of the building will decrease by 5 or 10 percent.
• Cutting the material to the center will help prevent cracks from appearing in the log.
• Caulk work is carried out in dry weather.
• They increase the stability of the structure and prevent the displacement of logs by securing them with dowels, installed in holes in the center of the logs.

Thus, making a log house with your own hands, although difficult process, but doable. In the video presented for this article you can find complete information on this topic.

Building a bathhouse from a log frame is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains everything key points, which will help in the construction of a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior finishing.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Getting rid of many ailments, removing harmful substances from the body accumulated in everyday life in the city, giving the body complete rest - all this has been achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a reservoir of fresh water located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Bound today country bathhouse there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fences, outbuildings), fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and space for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following dimensions is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, lounge areas, etc.

In temperate and cold climate zones, it would be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow the premises to be illuminated with sunlight longer.

Bathhouse construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

Classic and most successful construction material for the Russian bath there was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging bath rooms, retracting excess moisture out.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and flooring logs made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (i.e., not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion when selecting wood, there will be no cavities or drips of resin on the round timber coniferous species, dry, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places affected by wood-boring beetles.

Bathhouse foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying any type of foundation: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak ground consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bonded concrete mortar. Basic (angular) brick pillars for a columnar foundation, it is usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a cross-section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. Free space around the formwork it is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rotting, and their outer surface quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be covered construction lubricant on mineral based, to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and interior walls The walls of the steam room are laid out from bricks, their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Pouring concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculating the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation is quite simple; you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties when preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales. construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced many times bayonet shovel or using a wire probe, tap the outer side of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bitumen mastic(for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row ligation method: laid on a layer of roofing felt masonry mortar, on it - the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, a mortar is placed and the next brick row, but “in a spoon” (along the axis of the foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By by and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. The surface of the bath floor is usually laid wooden grate, cork mats or mats - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, and may require replacement after 6–8 years. Tile tiles would be more practical for bath flooring - they are easier to care for, they are not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bathhouse premises must be placed at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer, containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it in indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), square-section wooden logs (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. At large sizes additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support posts for logs must be placed on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

Solution flooring in this case it is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, filled with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation), a subfloor made of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the joists. Then a PVC film, foil mineral insulation, and another layer of film are laid for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially relevant for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for wastewater and pipes draining dirty water into the pit and then into the sewer.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, cross-section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drainage hole.

To prevent freezing in winter period the pit must be covered with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and top cover cover the top with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of final roof structure depends on roofing, with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the installation of a single- or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters located at an angle are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

Attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deeper by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. We lay expansion joints (19 mm board covered with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Caulking for a sauna log house

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

Caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - on the outside and inside of the log house, and after a year - repeated caulking (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has rounded shape: handle diameter 40 mm, its length - 250 mm, striking part diameter 70 mm, length - 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and roller - with force until full confidence in filling the groove (gap).

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the bottom crown adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to skew and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick kilns in bathhouses they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints it is necessary to bandage especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones different weights(from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a larger pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, you need to add cast iron pigs to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: pigs). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40–50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of the water is achieved.

For better traction you need to remove chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near roofing sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to reach the bathhouse independent line to supply electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum right away, focusing on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported support cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend time with him installation work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards, you need to attach it to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air supply with a VVGng copper cable attached to the carrier steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched over the air to the bathhouse, the optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should only be outdoor installation. According to the rules against fire safety It is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don’t joke about the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bathhouse should be done only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions should only be through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, glass shade only. All connections internal wiring cable - only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it, with single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a finishing finish - linden, pine tongue and groove board (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bathhouse you need to install small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that someone sitting on a bench can look out through them. Windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward - for fire safety reasons. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size the doors in the washing compartment of the bathhouse are 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles- wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of double-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the sauna premises from the threat of fire - lay it in front of the stove firebox steel sheet, make sure that the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container of water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.

A wooden house is an aesthetic, environmentally friendly and safe housing, which is characterized by high heat and soundproofing properties, strength and reliability. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to assemble and install a log house with their own hands. It is possible to do this, but it is difficult. When installing, it is important to take into account a lot of factors, including the quality of the log, calculations of lumber and layout of the house, installation features, etc.

Please note that low-quality materials and errors in assembly will reduce the performance properties and service life of the house, lead to the appearance of rot and mold in the structure, warping of the walls and many other, no less serious, problems. But if you decide to self-construction country house or bathhouse, this article will tell you how to make a log house.

Design and selection of materials

Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with designing a house taking into account the features land plot, future engineering systems and room design. Layout log house it can be rectangular or square, as well as shaped in the form of a semicircle, hexagon, etc. Of course, the construction of the first option will be much easier.

After creating the project and calculating the estimate, lumber is carefully selected. Rounded logs - best option for those who want to assemble a log house and build a house themselves.

Such logs are characterized by smooth and Smooth surface, identical sizes and diameters. This will allow installation to be carried out quickly and easily. In addition, logs that fit tightly together will provide good thermal insulation. Due to the aesthetics and naturalness of materials, a house made of round wood will harmoniously fit into environment. A wooden structure will look elegant and original. Read more about the advantages of a log house.

To get a reliable and durable home, you need to use only high-quality logs. It is desirable that the lumber be from forested regions and undergo special processing. At the MariSrub company, timber harvesting takes place in the Kirov region, the Mari El and Komi republics. These regions are famous for their good, large and moisture-resistant wood.

Raw materials and logs undergo careful selection and processing in the company’s own workshop. The wood is impregnated and processed protective equipment from negative impact moisture and insects. Such materials will last longer and preserve original appearance and properties.

Choose logs harvested from winter forests. Since such wood is stronger and more resistant to moisture. The presence of knots of small diameter and small natural defects is allowed on lumber. The trunks of quality materials are characterized by yellow or dark yellow color. These must be unspun logs of the same diameter and the same wood species. There should be no mechanical damage, rot or wormholes on the surface.

How to bandage a log house

After the materials have been selected and the foundation for the wooden house has been installed, the assembly of the log house begins. There are two main types of lashing or tying of logs. This is “in the cup” and “in the paw”. Both methods characterize the stability and strength of the structure of the future house, and they differ in the creation of grooves.

Cutting “into a bowl” or “into an oblo” is a traditional Russian method of assembling a log house. He assumes that the corners of the structure are connected to the release of the ends two times the diameter of the log. Because of this, lumber costs increase. The construction of such a house will cost more, but the warmth inside will remain for a long time. In addition, the corners of the building will not be negatively affected by wind and precipitation.

The “paw” method assumes that the logs are laid along the bracket, aligned along the outer edge and the excess is trimmed off from the inside. This is a colder room, so for insulation the ends are covered with boards. This is also necessary in order to protect the sawn wood from rotting. Please note that the log house needs to be hewn inside.

Tying logs “in the paw” has a more modern and aesthetic appearance and less wood wasted. But to create a warm and durable home, it will take a lot additional work. Therefore, such cutting will become a labor-intensive process.

Loghouse installation technology

• Waterproofing is laid on the horizontal surface of the poured foundation. Roofing material is suitable as a material. For laying, the foundation is lubricated when heated and roofing felt sheets are placed on top. After drying, make another layer;
• On waterproofing layer they steal boards at least 5 centimeters thick, and lay a layer of tow or jute on top of the boards. This will enhance the thermal insulation properties, because up to 40% of the heat escapes through the floor and foundation!;
• The frame is installed on the insulation layer. As a rule, production logs are numbered. This wall kit is easy to assemble according to the attached diagram;
• Lay the crowns strictly level, row by row, and fasten them with dowels. Make sure the logs lie flat!;
• A layer of insulation, also in the form of tow or jute, is placed on each laid crown. The insulation is secured using a construction stapler;
• In addition to bandaging at the corners, the logs are connected every meter of length using spikes. Additional fastening will make the structure stable.

The final stage

After assembly, the log house is left for 0.5-1.5 years for shrinkage, in which case it is better to close the structure plastic film for waterproofing. During this period, you can sew up the floors and install rafters for the future roof. The floors are sewn up using boards with a thickness of 60 mm, which are laid on beams. The boards are connected using tenons. The ceiling can be laid in the same way.

After installing the roof, finishing work begins. First of all, this is insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. Don't forget about engineering systems, including electricity and plumbing, ventilation and sewerage. These communications must be carried out before interior finishing begins. Moreover, the location and installation of these systems are calculated at the stage of designing the house!

Log installation and construction wooden house DIY is a complex and time-consuming process that requires knowledge and skills. Incorrect sequence and technology of work, poor quality materials and lack of experience will lead to serious problems. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to professionals!

The masters of the MariSrub company will build a turnkey wooden house, cottage or bathhouse! We offer services for creating your dream home project, assembly and installation log house, installation of the foundation and roof, arrangement of communications and finishing of the building. At the disposal of the company own workshop for the production of rounded and chopped logs. Independent production— guarantee of careful quality control and low prices!

Today we’ll talk about how to cut a log house into a bowl with your own hands. We will talk about what this technology is, what features, advantages and disadvantages it has. And so that readers of the blog about wooden house-building at the Russian Izba agricultural production complex learn more about the cutting technology, a video about it will conclude the article. Let `s start?!

IN Lately I hear more and more often about some new super technologies, all sorts of “smart” houses and other achievements of civilization, but... Friends, you must agree that we are all still drawn to the natural, natural, familiar, proven over the years. Therefore, when it comes to a house and what is best to build it from, I never tire of repeating: the best material for housing construction– this is a tree, environmentally friendly, breathable, natural.

If you have decided to build a wooden house, we, firstly, congratulate you on this step, and secondly, we recommend that you install our original Russian log house when the so-called manual felling is performed.

The main secret of this simple, but, as time has shown, very ingenious idea is the following: a recess is cut out in each log, that is, a “bowl”, into which the next log is placed, this recess is also cut out in it - a bowl. The main task is to adjust the size of the bowl so that the logs stacked on top of each other end up tightly adjacent to each other.

There are two ways to cut a log from a log into a bowl

1. "To the region"(Russian felling) - corner bundle of logs is carried out by placing the top log in a bowl.
2. "To the clap"(Siberian felling) - the upper log, in the lower part of which a bowl is cut out, is laid on the lower log, etc.

There is an opinion that the second cutting technique is more reliable; it better protects the log house from cold and moisture. But you and I know how to carry out thermal engineering calculations of the walls of a house, how to waterproof the foundation, how and how to properly treat wood, and, after all, what kind of heater to buy, so we are not afraid of either frost or moisture getting into the frame.

Types of cuttings "in the hole"

Cutting a log into a bowl - advantages and disadvantages

As you understand, chopping into a bowl is a construction technique that our great-grandfathers used from generation to generation to build a house without a single nail. Such houses, as they say, last forever.

• If we talk in general about hand-cut log houses, the advantages and disadvantages of this technology, I will note the following: such houses do not need to be decorated in any special way. If the material (wood) is chosen of high quality, it looks very beautiful and noble in itself, and, in our opinion, it is unnecessary to sculpt something on top of it.
• The main advantage and, perhaps, the most powerful argument in favor of a wooden house built using this technology corner connection logs into the bowl is that it turns out warm, strong and reliable.
• Probably the only disadvantage of cutting into a bowl is the greater consumption of material if we compare this technology for building a log house, for example, with other existing ones. Since the log corners protrude up to half a meter, the usable living space of the house is reduced.
• Another feature of such houses and baths is that it, like any wooden dwelling, must be treated with special compounds ( antiseptics and fire retardants), to protect the tree from the negative effects of the environment.

So, friends, let’s summarize the issue of “cutting a log into a bowl: advantages and disadvantages.” In fact, there are no significant disadvantages, but there are continuous advantages.

Marking and cutting out a log frame “into a bowl”

Houses made from logs into a bowl - choosing the material

In fact, choosing the wood from which your home will be built is the most important task you will face.

First of all, we say that our log house will be made exclusively of coniferous trees. These are the most resistant to decay processes because they contain a natural antiseptic - resin. If we proceed from the fact that you don’t understand anything about wood at all, then you need to find out everything yourself in advance: smell, feel, stroke, look at the rings in the cut, but learn to distinguish different breeds tree. Although if you cannot distinguish a fir tree from a birch tree, then it is better not to do it at all by chopping into a bowl with your own hands. Hire professionals for these purposes, for example, refer to

And remember: to cut a log house using this technology, you need to use logs of the same size (length and diameter). It is advisable that the cut tree be at least 26–28 cm.

Do-it-yourself log house in a bowl - step-by-step instructions

The technology for building such a house is extremely simple, but felling requires good physical training, dexterity, precision and accuracy. Because the quality of work directly affects... In general, it affects everything: what your house will be like (crooked and lopsided or perfectly straight), how comfortable it will be for you and your household to live in it, etc.

If you briefly outline the diagram of cutting a log house with your own hands, it looks like this:

Manual cutting of a bathhouse or house into a bowl - nuances

All comes with experience! But experience comes later, and the house must be built now, so glory to the one who invented the Internet, and to those who share their precious experience in it, just like me.

No matter how venerable a master may be, not everything always goes exactly according to plan and not always everything turns out correctly, especially when it comes to manual chopping log into a bowl. Therefore, before work, be sure to find out as many nuances as possible in order to avoid any incidents. Here are some useful tips:

• When cutting out a bowl, it is very convenient to spread the place where the logs touch with charcoal: when you put the log in the bowl, you will see how much more wood will need to be cut.
• You cut out the bowls, having previously measured everything. We lay the logs and after adjusting each tier, we measure with a level: if you see a distortion, you can try to correct it with a compactor, we use it to fill the bowl to the desired height.
• We number all the logs: the thickness of the logs is different, so as not to get confused later.
• Let’s say you chose very high-quality wood, but to be even more reliable, we soak each cut-out bowl with some special bactericidal solution so that there is no mold in the future.
• When storing a log, we place it with the bowl down so that water does not flow in if it suddenly rains.

Technology of cutting a log house into a bowl - video

It seems like everyone has been told. As they say, they explained it on their fingers. But to make everything completely clear, you need to use another very useful resource describing the technology of cutting a log house into a bowl - video! What else could explain everything so clearly? Schemes, drawings, drawings are all good, stories from life too, but when we see the process with our own eyes, everything falls into place.

Watch the video:

I would like to advise you as a specialist who really understands something in the construction of log houses, Valeria Samovich. By the way, he recently gave us interview, it will be interesting to read!

I hope that now everything is absolutely clear and understandable to you. And if not, ask questions in the comments to the article, we will explain even more clearly.

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