A beautiful, long-blooming anthurium takes pride of place in the apartment. The bright flowers and beautiful arrow-shaped leaves of the anthurium plant are business card a home where love and care are enough for all its inhabitants. A demanding flower loses its decorative effect at the slightest deviation from the maintenance norm. Flowers become especially capricious over the years, losing foliage.

Signs of the need for flower rejuvenation

On gardening forums you can find out that in some cases, without special care, an old anthurium continues to bloom at the age of more than 10 years. For others, the plant needs resuscitation after 4-5 years. Therefore, it is not age that makes a flower grow old, but not proper care.

Signs that a pet asks for help and needs rejuvenation, his appearance will become:

• the anthurium stem was exposed high up from below,
• the flowers are crushed or the plant does not bloom,
• leaves become smaller, many side shoots appear,
• The trunk stretches and the leaves fall off.

In any case, if a flower has lost its decorative value, and it is a pity to part with it, it should be revived. But first, carry out an analysis and determine what is missing in agricultural technology, so that in the future the plant will delight you with its appearance for a long time.

Basic care requirements:

• year-round exposure to light without direct sunlight, providing at least 12 hours of daylight,
• exclusion of any kind of drafts,
• Creation comfortable temperature surrounding air and earth,
• creating a zone of high humidity around the flower by any kind of evaporation and spraying,
• soil that meets the requirements and watering without stagnation of water in the pot,
• regular watering with settled soft water and fertilizing the plant,
• timely transplantation and reproduction,
• control of diseases and pests.

If a set of measures is completed, then the anthurium will not need rejuvenation for a long time.

Signs of improper flower maintenance

When a plant is actively growing green mass, new inflorescences appear, there is no reason for alarm.

If the leaves begin to curl into a tube, reducing the surface area, this is already a signal of a lack or excess of light and dry air. If black spots appear on the leaves, the plant is watered abundantly and stagnant zones appear in the substrate. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, you need to increase the air temperature and eliminate the draft.

Too hard water has a detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, when in drinking water increased content of hardness salts, it must be softened by passing through a special filter or using the freezing method. If the water is not completely frozen, the hardness salts will remain in the liquid layer; the ice can be used for watering plants. Signs of watering with hard water are blackening of the tips of the leaves.

Yellow leaves and stems of dried flowers should be cut off with scissors, after disinfecting them in order to stop damage to the plant.

The flower is dying, how to save anthurium

The plant has stretched out and is rapidly shedding its leaves - you need to carefully examine the stem. This type of aroid partially reproduces by aerial roots. You can see marked bulges on the stem; in these places, if the conditions are right, the plant can take root. In nature, a drooping branch takes root into the ground, even through the air, trying to reach the nutritious litter. If these shoots are alive, then even though the anthurium dies, it can be saved.

It is necessary to check the presence of pests and diseases on the plant that led to the drying out of the anthurium. You should remove the plant from the pot and carefully examine the condition of its root system. Be careful when doing this; the roots are fragile. Only light and fleshy roots are considered alive. Yellowed and brown weaves no longer work. They either rotted from improper maintenance or are susceptible to infectious diseases. If the anthurium has dried up in the above-ground part, perhaps there are living roots that can be used to revive the bush.

It happens that a flower without external signs of rotting roots sheds its green attire for six months, only to be reborn again, but this happens if the roots remain alive.

How to rejuvenate anthurium

Rejuvenation occurs in two ways:

• activating aerial roots,
• restoring the functionality of the root system.

Aerial roots will begin to develop in a warm and humid environment. Therefore, the best way is to place the plant in a warm place and create a belt of sphagnum moss around the growth points of future roots. In a constantly moist substrate, the plant will take root within a week or two. Then this part can be cut off with a sharp, disinfected knife, sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ground cinnamon.

Such a seedling can be immediately rooted in a pot by preparing the necessary composition of tropical soil. Sphagnum will not interfere with this; the roots will break through the pores of the moss and reach the nutrient mixture.

But if the plant is very elongated, then in this way you can root another piece of the plant stem. During root growth, the plant is not watered so as not to spoil the idle soil. It is only sprayed from above. As a harbinger of the salvation of the anthurium, a new leaf will soon appear on the seedling. After this, create conditions for the anthurium to develop as quickly as possible. The plant will not need feeding for the first 2-3 months, the soil is full, but there are still few roots.

In order to thoroughly understand the condition of the rhizomes and understand how to revive the anthurium, you need to carefully wash all the roots, but they are very fragile. Then cut out the rotten and brown parts. If there are growth points on the light-colored roots, they will be visible. Place clean, disinfected and dried roots in a pot with a drainage layer and suitable nutrient soil. The container of the dish must correspond to the size of the root system. If there are few roots left, then the container should be small.

Plant the plant according to all the rules and wait for the result. Such work may not be necessary if only the above-ground part of the anthurium dies, the roots remain viable. Then, after cutting off the top for separate rooting, the entire pot is left at rest in a warm and bright place. After some time, young shoots should appear, which can later be planted. This is also one of the ways to rejuvenate anthurium.

A significant role in the revival of plants is played by subsequent care for them, as for a loved one who is recovering from a serious illness.

Composition of soil for rooting anthurium

First of all, you should know for sure that any disease brought with the earth can be the last straw for a weakened plant. Whatever composition is prepared, it should be disinfected by any means. The final treatment should be carried out with permanganate, after which the lump of earth is dried.

The recommendations for adding a large amount of sphagnum moss are correct; in addition to its moisture-retaining properties, it is also bactericidal. The danger is that if the soil has dried out on top, the moss near the root retains moisture, so there is a danger of overwatering the plant. Perlite and vermiculite hold moisture in the soil well, releasing it when necessary. Ground charcoal makes the substrate porous and creates centers for the formation of nutrition for the plant. Bark, necessarily, high peat, leaf substrate provide the necessary acidity. Sand is a source of silicic acid. A small amount of vermicompost fills the composition with beneficial microflora. All these substances are vital in the soil. It is good to use vermiculite as a top fill so that the moisture from the pot evaporates less.

Anthurium transplantation - video

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Olga Lyubinetskaya 06/18/2014 | 23179

If the plant comes to you in very poor condition, do not rush to get rid of it. Perhaps the anthurium can still be saved.

A small stunted anthurium came to me in an excessively large pot and with a lump of earth, which had long ago turned into a hard stone. I soaked the dried earthen lump in water for a long time. When I finally managed to do this, I was horrified to discover that there were no roots there at all: they were dry and fell off when touched. Having torn off all the dried leaves and cleared the plant of dead “crusts”, I discovered a living core. I decided not to root it in water.

I mixed the soil for seedlings with washed sand, added wood ash and deepened the plant into the resulting soil mixture, without covering it with a jar on top, for fear of causing rot. I just put it in partial shade. Regularly sprayed with Kendal solution (biostimulator).

For almost six months the plant showed no signs of life, but it did not die either. And I decided to take it out of the ground. I pulled and it didn’t budge. As a result, I found three thick white roots, one of which broke off when I pulled it out of the ground. Since then, I have tried to be very careful when transplanting. Having carefully cut off the broken root, sprinkled it with ash and transplanted the plant into fresh soil. I took a ready-made substrate for ornamental flowering plants, added a little coniferous peat - the result was a light, fertile mixture. A layer of expanded clay was placed on the bottom of the pot.

Watering and replanting

Anthurium began to grow with incredible speed. Three shoots appeared at once from above, releasing new roots from the side, six dark green glossy leaves opened in all their splendor. Warm shower My handsome man took it weekly while he was without flowers. But when flowers appear, I do it carefully. Before you start water procedures, I make sure to put a plastic bag on the inflorescence, because when water gets on the flower, unsightly black marks remain and it quickly fades. You can not spray the anthurium, but wipe the leaves with a damp sponge on both sides.

A year later, my ward turned into an excellent specimen Anthurium Scherzer (A. scherzerianum), which produced 2 scarlet flowers with charming curled pink tails. I'm replanting anthurium every 2 years in the spring in the soil mixture that I wrote about above. During transplantation, strongly overgrown specimens can be divided or the lateral processes can be separated.

Pests

Secrets of successful cultivation

• All year round This exotic beauty needs a bright, warm place protected from direct sun. The flower is very delicate, I never take it out into the open loggia. The temperature in summer is 20-25°C, in winter – not lower than 16°C. I reduce watering a little at this time.
• Anthurium loves high humidity. The best solution is to place it near a household humidifier or indoor fountain. You can place a pot of anthurium in a ceramic pot on a layer of expanded clay. To maintain constant humidity, I spray expanded clay and moss, which I cover the aerial roots with.

How to determine the condition of a flower by external signs?

• The active growth of new leaves and aerial roots, the appearance of new inflorescences is a sign of the successful development of the plant.
• An indicator of too bright light, excessive dry air, drafts or lack of lighting is leaf curling.
• Black spots on the leaves indicate overwatering.
• If the plant is cold or suffers from drafts, the tips of the leaves turn yellow.
• If the tips of the leaves begin to turn black, it means that the soil is oversaturated with calcium salts. In this regard, it is better to water the anthurium with soft, settled water. During the period of active growth, fertilize every 15 days with a complex fertilizer for ornamental flowering plants. It is advisable to remove faded inflorescences.

Do not pour or transfer the old soil mixture along with the anthurium into a new pot - this way you only risk transferring and multiplying the number of pathogens of anthurium disease to a new place and will not get rid of the problem. It would be much more advisable to throw away the old soil mixture, the old pot and plant the anthurium in a new, clean, favorable environment where the plant will be comfortable.

The salvation of anthurium also lies in constant care. Since the old flower care program has failed, let's refresh our memory on the necessary points and correct proportions that are required for the normal functioning of the plant and maintaining its vital functions.

Compliance with the care parameters will ensure the salvation of the anthurium even after the stump with leaves from the blooming luxurious plant remains.

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Anthurium: how to revive a flower at home

While carefully caring for their home flowers, some lovers sometimes have to face the need to restore to life plants that are on the verge of death due to various reasons.

You should not get rid of a rotting or drying flower that has lost its decorative effect. If possible, it should be given a chance for rehabilitation, and in most cases the revived plant will generously thank its owner for his care.

Anthurium. General information

Anthurium (lat. Anthurium) is a genus of evergreen epiphytes of the Aronnikov family (Araceae), numbering up to 900 species. The plant has short stems and aerial roots, leathery leaves of various shapes and sizes, inflorescences are distinguished by their inimitable originality thanks to the flowers collected in elongated cylindrical cones with a bright color.

The inflorescence is equipped with a bract in the shape of a blanket greenish color with a pleasant matte sheen. In some countries, anthurium is called “flamingo flower”.

Anthurium came to Europe from the tropical and subtropical latitudes of the New World. The plant has a wide range - from Mexico to the southern coast of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. In northern latitudes, anthurium has adapted well thanks to the conditions created by flower growers.

In fact, the plant is highly whimsical when trying to grow it in room conditions. Some species can only take root in heated, humidified greenhouses.

Anthurium is grown to sell its cut inflorescences, as well as to add special sophistication to the interior at home.

Features of care

Caring for epiphytes in northern latitudes is not so simple. Anthurium is demanding of literally everything that surrounds it. The slightest deviation from the desired conditions - and the flower quickly fades away.

Lighting

Anthurium “loves” diffused light or partial shade. Direct sunlight can burn the delicate leaves of the flower. It is recommended to determine the permanent location of the anthurium on the eastern or northwestern side. In cases where the active sun still penetrates the flower, the window can be shaded with a tulle curtain.

Temperature conditions

Like most tropical plants, anthurium prefers slightly elevated temperature conditions However, too dry and hot air can lead to the death of the plant. The temperature during the period of active life should not exceed +280 C and drop to +170 C. With the arrival of the first cold weather, the plant “falls asleep”. Winter temperature is +15..+160 C. At the end of winter, the temperature is gradually increased so that the plant has the opportunity to form buds.

Watering

Anthurium is very moisture-loving. As soon as upper layer The soil dries out and needs to be watered again. However, the water should not stay in the pot for long. After abundant watering, the remaining water that has fallen into the pan should be removed. Water for irrigation should be used that is soft and does not contain chlorine. Frequent stagnation of moisture will lead to rotting of the root system and the gradual death of the flower. By winter, watering is significantly reduced.

Air humidity

High ambient humidity of 85-95% is optimal for keeping anthurium. It is recommended to cover the flower shoots with damp moss or other hygroscopic materials, which must be constantly sprayed with water. The roots of the plant will be grateful for such care, as they will enter the phase of active growth, which cannot be achieved in room conditions with dry air masses.

The ideal humidifier for anthurium would be a room humidifier or the “Fog” system. Caring gardeners regularly wash off the accumulated dust from the leathery leaves of the plant with a sponge soaked in warm water, which suppresses decorativeness. During flowering periods, water should not be allowed to enter the inflorescences, which can cause brown spots to appear on the stipules.

Feeding

Mineral complex fertilizers are applied in the spring-summer period once every 2-3 weeks. The most important thing when applying fertilizers is not to overdo it. Organic mixtures will provide a good effect. You can add to the top layer of soil in the pot leaf humus, cow dung or chicken manure infusion. This must be done with great care so as not to harm the plant with large portions of toxins.

Priming

To grow anthurium indoors, pots are filled with loose, coarse fibrous, well-ventilated substrate with weak acidic reaction. By adding large fragments of silicon or peat chips to the substrate, you can make good soil, which will dry and ventilate easily. Silicon will not allow the earth to become compressed and sour.

Reanimating a dying anthurium plant

Reliable drainage made from dry cuttings and a thick layer of sand or expanded clay should be placed at the bottom of the pot.

The necessary substrate for replanting anthurium is purchased at flower shops, however, you can make it yourself. To do this, you will need peat chips, chopped moss and turf in a ratio of 2:2:1, or from deciduous soil, peat chips, sand, charcoal and coniferous tree bark in equal proportions.

Transfer

In the new pot, the plant needs to be planted slightly deeper than before transplantation. Thus, new roots are buried. Young plants are repotted annually to provide them with slightly larger pots. After transplantation, long shoots can be tied to supports.

Anthuriums prefer plastic pots as they accept temperature environment, and in ceramic pots the plant can cool significantly.

Diseases and pests

Anthurium is susceptible to various types of infections and pests.

Pests can be:

• spider mite;
• mealybug;
• scale insect

The most destructive diseases are:

Root rot. When there is an excess of moisture, pathogenic bacteria attack the root system. The roots stop feeding nutrients into the above-ground part of the plant. The stems and leaves dry out, darken and die without a chance of salvation.

Stem rot. Overmoistening as a result of flooding the soil clod and too frequent spraying leads to rotting of the stems. Softening and darkening of the stem and leaves indicate that reviving such a plant will not be easy. Many gardeners say that we will revive such a plant first, which will give a chance for the flower to be restored.

Anthracnose. If the infection is severe, the leaves begin to dry out at the edges, and as the disease progresses, the dying anthurium can no longer be saved; the entire above-ground part becomes depleted and dies. Resuscitation of a flower affected by anthracnose is possible only in the first stages of the disease.

Blackening of leaf tips. The disease is caused by an excess of calcium salts in the soil. By balancing the acidity and composition of the soil, the development of the disease can be stopped, however, restoring the decorative appearance of the plant will not be easy.

Curling of leaves. The leaves give the anthurium a special sophistication. Therefore, when they begin to disappear, the flower takes on a pitiful appearance. The most likely causes may be dry hot air, frequent drafts, lack or too high activity of sunlight. As soon as the root cause can be eliminated, there is a chance to revive the anthurium at home.

How to rejuvenate anthurium

Anthurium, like most indoor plants, needs rejuvenation. A flower lives a “full” life for 4-5 years. Then he simply needs complete resuscitation. Experienced flower growers will tell you how to save anthurium.

Signs that your exotic pet is waiting for help will include the following changes in its appearance:

• stems and leaf blades are deformed;
• the main stem quickly becomes exposed from below;
• the inflorescences become noticeably smaller and deformed;
• the plant “refuses” to bloom at least once a year;
• leaf plates are shortened and narrowed;
• many thinned side shoots appear;
• the main stem extends upward, completely shedding its leaves;
• epiphytic roots look lifeless.

If the foliage has completely disappeared, then this condition requires a thorough analysis and determination of what to do next. Leaves curling into a tube, as well as a reduction in their surface area, will be a signal of insufficient lighting or too hot ambient air.

Basically, while maintaining all necessary conditions When growing anthurium, it will not need rejuvenation for several years. At the same time, a flower that has undergone resuscitation shows a noticeable increase in green mass with the appearance of new inflorescences, which will confirm that the negative signs of aging have disappeared and there is no longer any cause for concern.

What to do in hopeless situations

In cases where the anthurium dies and it is not possible to save it, there is a chance to restore the flower from the embryos of aerial roots. On the stem, even if it is severely depleted, characteristic bulges are visible. These are aerial roots.

By cutting off sections of the stem with embryonic epiphytic roots, you can try to root them. Under natural conditions, a branch descending to the ground takes root into a nutrient medium. If these roots are still alive, and the plant is declared dead, then thanks to them there remains a chance of salvation.

Fragments of the root system that turn yellow or brown are considered dead. This is how infected plants manifest themselves. Even with the complete loss of the above-ground part of the flower, there is always hope for its revival from the root system. It is not recommended to water the plant during the rooting period of aerial roots. The soil in which the cutting sits is generously sprayed with warm, soft water, avoiding flooding. After the first leaves appear, the anthurium can be watered by transplanting it into a stationary pot.

There are cases when an anthurium, without visible signs of rotting of the root system, sheds all its foliage for several months, and then is reborn again. Such miraculous healing occurs if the roots remain alive.

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How to save anthurium

You will need

• - soil for azaleas;
• - universal soil;
• - mulch;
• - sphagnum;
• - charcoal;
• — drainage;
• - vermiculite;
• - pelvis;
• — flower pot;
• - foundationazole;
• - container for foundation;
• - phytosporin;
• - medical gloves;
• - measuring cup;
• - scissors;
• — copper sulfate

Instructions

Prepare the soil Take a basin and prepare the mixture for the soil. Based on the calculation that one part of the soil is equal to three measuring cups. For one part of soil for azaleas, you need to take one part of universal soil, 1/2 part sphagnum, 1/4 part vermiculite, 1/4 part charcoal.

Prepare the drainage Rinse the drainage thoroughly and pour it into a flower pot. The drainage layer in the pot should be 3 cm.

Take the foundation and dilute it in the prepared container according to the instructions.

Wear rubber gloves and remove the anthurium from the old pot. Clean the roots of the plant from the soil and rinse them thoroughly with warm water. All these procedures must be carried out very carefully, because... Anthurium roots are very fragile.

Place the roots of the plant in the foundation solution and leave for 40 minutes.

Check and treat the anthurium root system. Carefully inspect all roots. Cut off the rotten areas and sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal. Cut off all affected leaves and flower stalks. Pour the prepared soil into the flower pot. Carefully, without disturbing the location of the root system, place the plant in a new pot. Carefully fill in the soil and compact it lightly. The soil cannot be compacted tightly because... the plant needs air. It is not recommended to water the transplanted plant. Spray the plant with copper sulfate and place it in its usual place. Water the plant 2-3 days after transplanting. Use warm water for irrigation. After the soil has dried, water the anthurium again and spray with phytosporin.

note

Before cutting the anthurium, you must thoroughly disinfect the scissors.

Helpful advice

All the necessary ingredients can be purchased at specialized gardening stores. Instead of sphagnum and charcoal, you can use a special mixture for orchids that contains these components.

When cutting a flower, you can use cinnamon as an antiseptic.

The roots of my anthurium have rotted, they told me to cut them off and put the plant in water

I think that's right. I would do the same myself. You just need to cut it with a clean, sharp knife in a healthy place so that there is no hint of rot on the cut of the cutting. Sometimes you have to cut this way several times, higher and higher, until the tissue is completely healthy. Plants of the Araceae family, which includes anthurium, readily take root in water. This is how I rooted aglaonema and monstera, and monstera in winter, and successfully! Not to mention the philodendron and scindapsus - only the day before yesterday I again cut them into cuttings and put them in water. These are all Aroids, and their patterns are approximately the same. This tropical plants, and they do not have a pronounced rest period, and the intensity of growth processes depends on air temperature and lighting. In general, I prefer (if this is permissible for a given type of plant) to root not in the ground, but in water: 1) The cutting drinks water through the cut and does not suffer from dehydration as much as when stuck into the ground. Therefore, I never trim leaf blades to reduce evaporation - there is no need. On the contrary, leaves are a factory of energy that the cutting needs to survive and take root. 2) In water, you can observe what condition the cutting is in, how the roots are formed, whether there is any rotting, and take action in time. 3) Root formation stimulator Kornevin can be used both in soil and in water. Add Kornevin powder to the water at the tip of a knife, change this solution once a week. Provide the cuttings with light (only without direct sun) and warmth (preferably +20 - +23). If you have to choose between a bright or warm place, choose a warm one and light it above the plant ( Fluorescent Lamp should shine from morning to evening). I placed my cuttings in the bathroom, where it is warmer, and illuminated them.

In about a month and a half, roots should appear. There is also a chance that the aerial roots, the rudiments of which are on the anthurium stem, will begin to develop like real ones, but this is if they are covered with water. Long roots do not need to be grown, 2-4 centimeters are enough and can be planted in the ground.

They cut it correctly, but it doesn’t need to go into the water! It’s better to dip it in root and plant it in a pot, put a plastic bag on top, water only in the tray. As soon as it produces new leaves, remove the bag...

treat with Kornevin, this is a stimulant, all the cuts had to be powdered with charcoal, planted in soil and covered with a bag and the leaf blade cut in half to reduce the evaporation of leaves, but there is one drawback - now the plants have a dormant period and there is no guarantee that they will take root

Facts flashed here that various radiations (such as TV or microwave), as well as permanent magnets, work well. Try it and you'll tell everyone.

My roots also rotted and the leaves dried up, there was nothing left to put in the water, I had to throw it away.

Maintenance mistakes - over-moistening the soil

Watering indoor plants

Symptoms of overwatering flowers

How can we understand that this is a plant suffering from waterlogging? Leaf falling is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they literally fall off - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but still stay on the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but first become discolored and become pale yellow. But in other cases, a characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is darkening of the leaf. The leaf doesn’t just turn yellow, it actually darkens, the color changes from a healthy juicy green dirty-swamp shade, gradually turning into brown. If waterlogging is preceded by overdrying, the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.

Rotten roots split, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers through it, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging. And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, in some plants of succulent Brown.Sudden or gradual falling of leaves, blackening of shoots, damp, sour soil... The trunk still seems alive and green, but the roots have rotted, the plant can no longer be saved.

When a plant does not have enough water, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissues may lose elasticity, droop, or remain dry. After watering, turgor is restored and the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then interveinal chlorosis may appear; the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When overmoistened, the leaves may lose their elasticity and droop, but after watering the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur from watering with cold water. Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3°C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22°C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, causes the death of the suction roots from hypothermia, and, as a result, the falling of leaves.

As for water hardness, it cannot be the reason for the sudden falling of leaves and death of the plant. If you water plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones, sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose leaves en masse. All the damage manifests itself gradually: first, chlorotic spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.

In case of massive leaf fall, when leaves fall off not one by one, but dozens at once, the reasons may be the following: sudden hypothermia (for example, during transportation home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning roots), severe drying out, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from overwatering, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to feel the soil with your finger at depth (for example, the roots have grown greatly), and only by removing the plant from the pot can you determine whether the soil inside the root ball is wet.

Some gardeners wait until the last minute, not wanting to remove the plant and inspect the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, don’t even doubt it - take it out and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top the roots are not dense, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot the roots form a tight ring, the intertwining of the roots makes drying difficult and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small and clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.

The tangerine is the result of waterlogging and acidification of the soil. Chlorosis is a lack of various microelements. This deplorable condition is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp soil on a cold balcony or outside.

There is also a deplorable symptom that is characteristic of severe, prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture occurs, then the matter is already very neglected, and often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (yellowed or darkened), there is nothing left to save. A similar picture is possible only with severe hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when the roots are overdried. When overdrying, wilting begins with old leaves, with lower shoots, and the trunk becomes bare from below. When overmoistened, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.

And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaenas, dieffenbachias, any succulents (crassulas, adeniums, etc.), cacti - a sure sign of excess moisture.

Another symptom that is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of fungus gnats. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too much, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps you have become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, poduras (colembolas) are white or dirty-gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the ground in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.

Measures to save flooded plants

When you have determined that the plant has been flooded, you need to take immediate action.

Anthurium how to reanimate

If you establish the fact of waterlogging after removing the plant from the pot, then you will have to replant. If the fact of waterlogging is determined by indirect signs (falling leaves, damp soil to the touch), then the need for replanting depends on the severity of the situation.

• If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch in the mighty crown has withered, and the soil in the pot is quite light, then you do not need to replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundantly, the soil spreads out, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, then the roots suffer from a lack of air. If the seeds are watered, the seedlings may not reach the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
• If the pot has small drainage holes, you can widen them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
• Personally, I never try to just loosen the soil; this is not very reliable and justified in cases where a flooded plant is in a very large pot, replanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very increase in temperature will speed up the drying of the soil.
• In all other cases, it is better to replant the plant.

Signs of flooding in orchids - phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, they are sluggish, wrinkled. The bark takes a very long time to dry, and the roots rot from constant contact with the damp surface. Rotten roots must be cut off. In some cases, the new pot will have to be chosen smaller than it was.

So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Still, is the soil damp and how damp? Count how long it took to dry when you last watered. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil has been dry for a long time, say, a week has passed since watering, but upon inspection it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this from happening, or to calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, floods occur systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically reconsider the care system: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; move the plants to a warmer room or water less often when the soil dries out more. Sometimes you have to literally slap your hands so that you don’t rise with a watering can over the plant ahead of time...

Inspect the roots. Rotten ones can be seen immediately - they separate, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, underneath it there remains a bundle of vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such separation occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not separate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy, succulent roots rot completely, and this is also immediately visible - they are dark, dirty gray or brown, sometimes softened. You can often identify healthy roots and rotten ones by the contrast in appearance: some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only on the outside, but also on broken or broken areas.

There are times when rotten roots break off easily and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the soil. If you haven’t found any definitely rotten roots, but the soil and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we blot the measles lump in any hygroscopic material: in a pile of old newspapers, in a roll toilet paper. You can even let the plant with its root system exposed (without a pot) dry for several hours.

Having discovered rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many there are. This is a source of infection, there is nothing to regret here. We cut everything down to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal (charcoal, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If there is neither one nor the other, crush an activated carbon tablet. If there are very few roots left, much less than there were, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.

I have already said that a pot that is too spacious and not filled with roots does not contribute to the rapid growth of plants, and in some cases is even harmful. It is easier to fill a plant in a spacious pot. And even if you water carefully, the plant strives to grow the root system, develop a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the above-ground part.

Substrate for aroids, bromeliads and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, substrate: soil, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine stopper, pine bark and moss (just a little of it). A decaying anthurium transplanted into this mixture bloomed a month later and produced a third bud. If you tend to overwater your plants, then use clay pots for planting plants. But there is one important point: The inside of the pot should not be glazed. If the inside of a clay pot is covered with glaze, it is no better than a plastic one.

So, you need to choose a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: a smaller pot is better than a larger one. It’s okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, notify you by their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant to a larger pot and that’s it. During the growing season, plants can be replanted at any time and more than once. If most plants get sick after transplantation or stop growing, this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.

After transplantation, plants should not be placed in the sun, even the most light-loving ones; they should remain under shade for a week. You can’t water plants on the same day, especially those that are being rehabilitated from overwatering; these plants generally need to be watered for the first time after 2-3 days. You cannot fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting sick plants (including flooded ones), you cannot add dry fertilizers (neither manure, nor litter, nor granular fertilizers). Do not clog the transplanted plant in plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes pure evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, must be placed in high humidity conditions in the first days. And many people try to put the plant in a bag and tie it tightly. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But the availability of oxygen is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes both roots and leaves; if the plant has been flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms have developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it simply needs fresh air!

Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten the edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day; if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray with water on an inverted saucer.

If the plant has rotten crowns or ends of the shoots, they must be trimmed back to healthy tissue. If possible, at the same time take cuttings of the plant - cut off healthy branches for rooting, in order to be able to save at least something if the flood has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots still remain vigorous until they wither (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be taken from them. In some cases, when the roots rot, toxins enter the vascular system of plants (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of bacteria and fungi) and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking ones do not take root, they are already doomed...

After transplantation, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in the dark (most stimulants decompose in the light).

If there are dark spots on the leaves, rotten tops of the shoots, then it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add a fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides include: Fundazol, Maxim, Khom, Oksihom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh, dry soil, the plant can be watered with a zircon solution.

If a plant that has a wide rosette of leaves in the form of a funnel, like bromeliads, is flooded, then it is necessary to dry the bases of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, carefully remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when they are watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read more carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in winter.

Another important point: after flooding, the soil in the pot turns sour: the roots of the plants continue to release carbon dioxide, the renewal of humus slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form that is indigestible by plants. For example, iron goes into an oxidized form (F3+), which causes a rusty-brown crust to form on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not absorbed, and as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: signs of calcium, iron, and nitrogen deficiency appear. At this stage, some gardeners do not pay attention to the condition of the soil and rush to treat the effect rather than the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer and turn yellow. At times it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovit), but after adding fertilizer to the soil it gets even worse.

IN similar situation the only way out is complete replacement land. And if you are in a hurry to apply fertilizer, it is advisable to rinse the roots under running water when replanting. warm water. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with coal and plant in fresh, dry soil.

If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth is taking a long time to dry! Such a salt crust must be removed and the top layer of soil replaced with a fresh one.

How to revive a dying anthurium?

Anthurium - leaves turn yellow and dry

Anthurium is a plant that easily tolerates threats that pests can pose. But many people have problems with growing it quite often. The most common things that happen to this flower are: leaves turn yellow and dry, spots appear.

How to rejuvenate an old anthurium at home

Of course, all flower growers are interested in how to save an anthurium when its leaves dry out.

A healthy plant blooms for several months in a row, while managing to grow simply gorgeous foliage. If you are the lucky owner of this luxurious flower, but it has begun to look unimportant, it’s worth wondering why your anthurium’s leaves are drying out or spots are appearing. As a rule, diseases can arise from improper care.

Anthurium - what to do if the leaves dry out?

Why, for what reasons do anthurium leaves turn yellow and dry? This question plagues all amateur gardeners. If you encounter this annoying problem, we will tell you what to do.

The very first, most common reason is improper lighting. Try to move the flower to a well-lit place, but without direct sunlight. Direct rays may cause burns.

The second reason is a decrease in temperature. This problem is usually encountered in winter period time. When the temperature drops to 10-12°C, the leaves begin to turn brown spots, the lower leaves turn yellow and growth slows down. To avoid this, you should move your flower to a warmer place and limit abundant watering. The most suitable temperature for anthurium is 22-25°C.

The third reason is humidity. If there is widespread yellowing of the leaves of your flower, then it may be a problem with the roots due to excessive moisture. To eliminate this problem, remove the flower from the pot and carefully inspect the roots. If rotten parts are found, they should be cut back to healthy tissue and the anthurium should be planted in fresh soil.

The fourth reason is an excess or shortage of fertilizers. If you find yellowing leaves after fertilizing, you should take a break from this procedure, or, best of all, replace the soil completely.

A uniform yellow large spot on the leaf may indicate that the flower does not have enough fertilizer, then, naturally, you should fertilize it.

The fifth reason could be orange aphids. When a flower is infected by aphids, its leaves turn yellow, dry out and wrinkle, young shoots and flowers fall off. In this situation, you need tobacco tincture, it will help get rid of aphids and save the plant.

The sixth reason is mealybugs. The leaves affected by them become covered with brown spots. However, they can affect not only leaves, but also young shoots. Small cracks with brown edges form in the sprouts. Karbofosa will help eliminate this problem.

Another cause may be fungal diseases. Although Anthurium is affected by such diseases quite rarely, but sometimes it happens. And if this happens, then the plant needs certain care and treatment:

1. Gray rot. At first glance, it resembles a grayish coating in the form of dust. If you notice such a plaque on your flower, first move it to a well-ventilated area, as high humidity can contribute to the rapid spread of the disease, and carefully remove all damaged areas. Then spray the flower with Topsin.
2. Septoria- a fungal disease that can also affect anthurium. If it is infected, dark spots with a light border will appear on the leaves. Copper sulfate will help you with this ailment. But before you treat the plant with vitriol, all affected foliage must be removed.

Do not pour or transfer the old soil mixture along with the anthurium into a new pot - this way you only risk transferring and multiplying the number of pathogens of anthurium disease to a new place and will not get rid of the problem. It would be much more advisable to throw away the old soil mixture, the old pot and plant the anthurium in a new, clean, favorable environment where the plant will be comfortable.

The salvation of anthurium also lies in constant care. Since the old flower care program has failed, let's refresh our memory on the necessary points and correct proportions that are required for the normal functioning of the plant and maintaining its vital functions.

Compliance with the care parameters will ensure the salvation of the anthurium even after the stump with leaves from the blooming luxurious plant remains.

Indoor flowers “Male happiness” - secrets of proper care

“Male happiness” is popularly called the anthurium plant, since it is customary for us to present this flower as a gift to the male half of humanity. After all, it is believed that flowers of this plant represent strength, courage, freedom and passion for a woman. Although sometimes you can hear other names for this plant, for example, “devil's tongue”, “flamingo flower” or “pig tail”. However, they are not very common; most often, anthurium is still called “male happiness.” There is even a belief that in a man’s house where anthurium grows, happiness and good luck always reign (in the photo - this house is probably very happy!). Well, for this flower to be blooming and healthy, it is enough to know how to care for it.

Legend of origin

The birthplace of the flower “male happiness” is South America. The local population considers Anthurium to be an enchanted girl, about whom they say ancient legend. According to this tale, one day the leader of an Indian tribe, who had a cruel character, decided to take the most beautiful girl a village that did not want this because it loved another. To avoid becoming a wife cruel tyrant, the proud beauty decided to commit suicide by jumping into the flames of the fire. Since she was prepared for the wedding ceremony, the girl was already wearing ceremonial attire. But a miracle happened: the gods did not let the girl die, but turned her into luxurious red flowers (exactly the same as the bride’s wedding dress - in the photo) - anthurium!

Description of the flower “male happiness”

Currently, about 28 species of this plant are known. In addition, gardeners have bred over 77 hybrids of this flower.

The leaves of the plant, painted dark green, can reach a length of up to 40 cm and have a heart-shaped or arrow-shaped shape. The flower appears as a spadix of white, yellow or pink, surrounded by a luxurious, shiny blanket, the color of which can vary from dark red to white (sometimes with spots). The shape of the bedspread resembles the stylized shape of a human heart.

Anthurium flowering continues continuously for 7-8 months (from March to November). At the same time, individual flowers delight the eye with their beauty for only 1-1.5 months. If the flower is properly cared for, the plant can reach up to 0.8 m in height and up to 0.5 m in diameter!

Here, you can grow “male happiness” flowers exclusively indoors.

We will not say that the plant is unpretentious; on the contrary, it is very capricious and requires special care.

How to properly care for anthurium?

Despite the fact that the plant’s homeland is South America, during the flowering period anthurium very poorly tolerates not only direct sunlight, but also any bright lighting. If, for example, in summer time If you do not remove the flowers to a shaded place in time, the leaves may get sunburn, which will first appear as yellowing, and then the tips of the leaves will simply dry out. To save the plant from death, it is necessary to remove it from the sun to a shaded place.

In winter, on the contrary, the plant must be placed in a well-lit place so that it gains strength before future flowering.

During this period, “male happiness” may even turn yellow if it feels a lack of sunlight.

The humidity of the air where the anthurium is kept should be quite high, but the temperature should not be very high (from +18 to +20 C and no higher). The flower loves moisture very much, so it is recommended to spray it daily with a spray bottle, especially if the tips of the leaves dry out.

Anthurium. Rescue of drowning people.

However, flowers, unlike anthurium leaves, do not like excess moisture. Therefore, make sure that all drops of water fall only on the foliage of the plant, otherwise your luxurious flowers will become stained and fall off. It won’t hurt in a room where “male happiness” is kept, especially during heating season, install a humidifier.

But watering the plant should not be done too often (in winter it is recommended to water the flower once a week, and in summer - once every 4 days), and it should not be abundant. Otherwise, this may lead to rotting of the roots of the anthurium, which will manifest itself in blackening of the foliage on it. If you stop watering the plant and dry the soil, then the anthurium can still be saved, but this must be done as soon as the tips of the leaves on it dry out or begin to turn black!

Please note that these houseplants They do not tolerate hard water very well, which was also just drawn from water tap. Before watering, the water must be left to stand, otherwise the leaves will dry out and the color may not appear.

In order for the plant to grow strong and beautiful, it must be properly fed with mineral fertilizers. This must be done every month from the onset of spring until the end of autumn.

How to independently replant and propagate anthurium at home?

If you decide to transplant a flower into another pot, then it is best to do this in the spring. At the same time, you can even replant an anthurium that has already bloomed at this time. Having taken out the plant along with a lump of earth on the roots, there is no need to remove this soil, but rather, along with it, the flower must be carefully moved into a new pot with fresh soil, which is a mixture of:

• rotted leaves;
• turf land;
• pieces of moss.

For growing “male happiness”, a not very deep, but rather wide pot is suitable, since the branched root system of the flower requires quite a lot of space. However, you should not choose a pot too big size, guided by the principle, the more the better, since this can cause a complete absence of inflorescences on your anthurium. It is necessary to lay a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot, since, as mentioned above, the roots of the plant do not like excessive moisture, which leads to their rotting and death of the entire plant.

If you want to propagate “Male Happiness” yourself, this is done by dividing one bush into several parts (2-3). Taking into account the fact that after three years the plant begins to shed its leaves, it can and should be divided into parts at each transplant, that is, annually. This way you will not only preserve the plant’s youth, but also propagate it.

Thus, by providing proper care for anthurium, you will always have not only very beautiful flower, but also with its correct reproduction - gifts for the strong half of humanity for all occasions. After all, not a single man has yet refused to receive “happiness” as a gift!

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Reanimating a dying anthurium plant

A beautiful, long-blooming anthurium takes pride of place in the apartment. Bright flowers and beautiful arrow-shaped leaves of the anthurium plant are the hallmark of a home where there is enough love and care for all its inhabitants. A demanding flower loses its decorative effect at the slightest deviation from the maintenance norm. Flowers become especially capricious over the years, losing foliage.

Signs of the need for flower rejuvenation

On gardening forums you can find out that in some cases, without special care, an old anthurium continues to bloom at the age of more than 10 years. For others, the plant needs resuscitation after 4-5 years. Therefore, it is not age that makes a flower grow old, but improper care.

Signs that a pet is asking for help and needs rejuvenation will be its appearance:

• the high anthurium stem was exposed from below;
• the flowers are crushed or the plant does not bloom;
• the leaves become smaller, many side shoots appear;
• The trunk stretches and the leaves fall off.

In any case, if a flower has lost its decorative value, and it is a pity to part with it, it should be revived. But first, carry out an analysis and determine what is missing in agricultural technology, so that in the future the plant will delight you with its appearance for a long time.

Basic care requirements:

• year-round exposure to light without direct sunlight, providing at least 12 hours of daylight;
• exclusion of any kind of drafts;
• creating a comfortable temperature of the surrounding air and ground;
• creating a zone of high humidity around the flower by any kind of evaporation and spraying;
• soil that meets the requirements and watering without stagnation of water in the pot;
• regular watering with settled soft water and fertilizing the plant;
• timely transplantation and propagation;
• control of diseases and pests.

If a set of measures is completed, then the anthurium will not need rejuvenation for a long time.

Signs of improper flower maintenance

When a plant is actively growing green mass, new inflorescences appear, there is no reason for alarm.

Read also: Chlorophytum does not require complex care at home

If the leaves begin to curl into a tube, reducing the surface area, this is already a signal of a lack or excess of light and dry air. If black spots appear on the leaves, the plant is watered abundantly and stagnant zones appear in the substrate. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, you need to increase the air temperature and eliminate the draft.

Too hard water has a detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, when drinking water has a high content of hardness salts, it needs to be softened by passing it through a special filter or using the freezing method. If the water is not completely frozen, the hardness salts will remain in the liquid layer; the ice can be used for watering plants. Signs of watering with hard water are blackening of the tips of the leaves.

Yellow leaves and stems of dried flowers should be cut off with scissors, after disinfecting them in order to stop damage to the plant.

The flower is dying, how to save anthurium

The plant has stretched out and is rapidly shedding its leaves - you need to carefully examine the stem. This type of aroid partially reproduces by aerial roots. You can see marked bulges on the stem; in these places, if the conditions are right, the plant can take root. In nature, a drooping branch takes root into the ground, even through the air, trying to reach the nutritious litter. If these shoots are alive, then even though the anthurium dies, it can be saved.

It is necessary to check the presence of pests and diseases on the plant that led to the drying out of the anthurium. You should remove the plant from the pot and carefully examine the condition of its root system.

The anthurium plant has dried up, how to rejuvenate an old plant, how to revive it,

Be careful when doing this; the roots are fragile. Only light and fleshy roots are considered alive. Yellowed and brown weaves no longer work. They either rotted from improper maintenance or are susceptible to infectious diseases. If the anthurium has dried up in the above-ground part, perhaps there are living roots that can be used to revive the bush.

It happens that a flower without external signs of rotting roots sheds its green attire for six months, only to be reborn again, but this happens if the roots remain alive.

Read also: Beneficial features geranium and its use in everyday life

How to rejuvenate anthurium

• activating aerial roots;
• restoring the functionality of the root system.

Aerial roots will begin to develop in a warm and humid environment.

Therefore, the best way is to place the plant in a warm place and create a belt of sphagnum moss around the growth points of future roots. In a constantly moist substrate, the plant will take root within a week or two. Then this part can be cut off with a sharp, disinfected knife, sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ground cinnamon.

Such a seedling can be immediately rooted in a pot by preparing the necessary composition of tropical soil. Sphagnum will not interfere with this; the roots will break through the pores of the moss and reach the nutrient mixture.

But if the plant is very elongated, then in this way you can root another piece of the plant stem. During root growth, the plant is not watered so as not to spoil the idle soil. It is only sprayed from above. As a harbinger of the salvation of the anthurium, a new leaf will soon appear on the seedling. After this, create conditions for the anthurium to develop as quickly as possible. The plant will not need feeding for the first 2-3 months, the soil is full, but there are still few roots.

In order to thoroughly understand the condition of the rhizomes and understand how to revive the anthurium, you need to carefully wash all the roots, but they are very fragile. Then cut out the rotten and brown parts. If there are growth points on the light-colored roots, they will be visible. Place clean, disinfected and dried roots in a pot with a drainage layer and suitable nutrient soil. The container of the dish must correspond to the size of the root system. If there are few roots left, then the container should be small.

Plant the plant according to all the rules and wait for the result. Such work may not be necessary if only the above-ground part of the anthurium dies, the roots remain viable. Then, after cutting off the top for separate rooting, the entire pot is left at rest in a warm and bright place. After some time, young shoots should appear, which can later be planted. This is also one of the ways to rejuvenate anthurium.

Read also: We study various methods of propagation of Achimenes

A significant role in the revival of plants is played by subsequent care for them, as for a loved one who is recovering from a serious illness.

Composition of soil for rooting anthurium

First of all, you should know for sure that any disease brought with the earth can be the last straw for a weakened plant. Whatever composition is prepared, it should be disinfected by any means. The final treatment should be carried out with permanganate, after which the lump of earth is dried.

The recommendations for adding a large amount of sphagnum moss are correct; in addition to its moisture-retaining properties, it is also bactericidal. The danger is that if the soil has dried out on top, the moss near the root retains moisture, so there is a danger of overwatering the plant. Perlite and vermiculite hold moisture in the soil well, releasing it when necessary. Ground charcoal makes the substrate porous and creates centers for the formation of nutrition for the plant. Bark, of course, high-moor peat. leaf substrate provides the necessary acidity. Sand is a source of silicic acid. A small amount of vermicompost fills the composition with beneficial microflora. All these substances are vital in the soil. It is good to use vermiculite as a top fill so that the moisture from the pot evaporates less.

Anthurium transplantation -

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Maintenance mistakes - over-moistening the soil

Watering indoor plants

Symptoms of overwatering flowers

How can we understand that this is a plant suffering from waterlogging? Leaf falling is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they literally fall off - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but still stay on the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but first become discolored and become pale yellow. But in other cases, a characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is darkening of the leaf. The leaf doesn’t just turn yellow, it actually darkens, the color changes from a healthy juicy green dirty-swamp shade, gradually turning into brown. If waterlogging is preceded by overdrying, the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.

Rotten roots split, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers through it, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging.

And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, in some plants a rich brown color.

Sudden or gradual falling of leaves, blackening of shoots, damp, sour soil...

The trunk still seems alive and green, but the roots have rotted and the plant can no longer be saved.

When a plant does not have enough water, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissues may lose elasticity, droop, or remain dry. After watering, turgor is restored and the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then interveinal chlorosis may appear; the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When overmoistened, the leaves may lose their elasticity and droop, but after watering the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur from watering with cold water. Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3°C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22°C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, causing the suction roots to die from hypothermia, and, as a result, leaves to fall off.

As for water hardness, it cannot be the reason for the sudden falling of leaves and death of the plant. If you water plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones, sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose leaves en masse. All the damage manifests itself gradually: first, chlorotic spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.

In case of massive leaf fall, when leaves fall off not one by one, but dozens at once, the reasons may be the following: sudden hypothermia (for example, during transportation home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning roots), severe drying out, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from overwatering, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to feel the soil with your finger at depth (for example, the roots have grown greatly), and only by removing the plant from the pot can you determine whether the soil inside the root ball is wet.

Some gardeners wait until the last minute, not wanting to remove the plant and inspect the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, don’t even doubt it - take it out and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top the roots are not dense, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot the roots form a tight ring, the intertwining of the roots makes drying difficult and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small and clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.

The tangerine is the result of waterlogging and acidification of the soil. Chlorosis is a lack of various microelements.

This deplorable condition is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp soil on a cold balcony or outside.

There is also a deplorable symptom that is characteristic of severe, prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture occurs, then the matter is already very neglected, and often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (yellowed or darkened), there is nothing left to save. A similar picture is possible only with severe hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when the roots are overdried. When overdrying, wilting begins with old leaves, with lower shoots, and the trunk becomes bare from below. When overmoistened, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.

And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaenas, dieffenbachias, any succulents (crassulas, adeniums, etc.), cacti - a sure sign of excess moisture.

Another symptom that is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of fungus gnats.

If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too much, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps you have become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, poduras (colembolas) are white or dirty-gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the ground in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.

Measures to save flooded plants

When you have determined that the plant has been flooded, you need to take immediate action. If you establish the fact of waterlogging after removing the plant from the pot, then you will have to replant. If the fact of waterlogging is determined by indirect signs (falling leaves, damp soil to the touch), then the need for replanting depends on the severity of the situation.

• If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch in the mighty crown has withered, and the soil in the pot is quite light, then you do not need to replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundantly, the soil spreads out, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, the roots suffer from lack of air. If seed plantings are watered, the seedlings may not reach the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
• If the pot has small drainage holes, you can widen them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
• Personally, I never try to just loosen the soil; this is not very reliable and justified in cases where a flooded plant is in a very large pot, replanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very increase in temperature will speed up the drying of the soil.
• In all other cases, it is better to replant the plant.

Signs of flooding in orchids - phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, they are sluggish, wrinkled. The bark takes a very long time to dry, and the roots rot from constant contact with the damp surface.

Rotten roots must be cut off. In some cases, the new pot will have to be chosen smaller than it was.

So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Still, is the soil damp and how damp? Count how long it took to dry when you last watered. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil has been dry for a long time, say, a week has passed since watering, but upon inspection it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this from happening, or to calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, floods occur systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically reconsider the care system: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; move the plants to a warmer room or water less often when the soil dries out more. Sometimes you have to literally slap your hands so that you don’t rise with a watering can over the plant ahead of time...

Inspect the roots. Rotten ones can be seen immediately - they separate, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, underneath it there remains a bundle of vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such separation occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not separate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy, succulent roots rot completely, and this is also immediately visible - they are dark, dirty gray or brown, sometimes softened. You can often identify healthy roots and rotten ones by the contrast in appearance: some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only on the outside, but also on broken or broken areas.

There are times when rotten roots break off easily and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the soil. If you haven’t found any definitely rotten roots, but the soil and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we soak the measles lump in any hygroscopic material: in a pile of old newspapers, in a roll of toilet paper. You can even let the plant with its root system exposed (without a pot) dry for several hours.

Having discovered rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many there are. This is a source of infection, there is nothing to regret here. We cut everything down to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal (charcoal, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If there is neither one nor the other, crush an activated carbon tablet. If there are very few roots left, much less than there were, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.

I have already said that a pot that is too spacious and not filled with roots does not contribute to the rapid growth of plants, and in some cases is even harmful. It is easier to fill a plant in a spacious pot. And even if you water carefully, the plant strives to grow the root system, develop a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the above-ground part.

Substrate for aroids, bromeliads and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, a substrate: soil, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine cork, pine bark and moss (just a little of it). A decaying anthurium, transplanted into this mixture, bloomed a month later and released its third bud.

If you tend to flood your plants, then use clay pots to plant your plants.

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But there is one important point: the inside of the pot should not be glazed. If the inside of a clay pot is covered with glaze, it is no better than a plastic one.

So, you need to choose a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: a smaller pot is better than a larger one. It’s okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, notify you by their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant to a larger pot and that’s it. During the growing season, plants can be replanted at any time and more than once. If most plants get sick after transplantation or stop growing, this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.

After transplantation, plants should not be placed in the sun, even the most light-loving ones; they should remain under shade for a week. You can’t water plants on the same day, especially those that are being rehabilitated from overwatering; these plants generally need to be watered for the first time after 2-3 days. You cannot fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting sick plants (including flooded ones), you cannot add dry fertilizers (neither manure, nor litter, nor granular fertilizers). Do not seal the transplanted plant in a plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes pure evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, must be placed in high humidity conditions in the first days. And many people try to put the plant in a bag and tie it tightly. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But the availability of oxygen is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes with both roots and leaves; if the plant has been flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms have developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it simply needs fresh air!

Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten the edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day; if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray with water on an inverted saucer.

If the plant has rotten crowns or ends of the shoots, they must be trimmed back to healthy tissue. If possible, at the same time take cuttings of the plant - cut off healthy branches for rooting, in order to be able to save at least something if the flood has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots still remain vigorous until they wither (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be taken from them. In some cases, when the roots rot, toxins enter the vascular system of plants (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of bacteria and fungi) and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking ones do not take root, they are already doomed...

After transplantation, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in the dark (most stimulants decompose in the light). If there are dark spots on the leaves, rotten tops of the shoots, then it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add a fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides include: Fundazol, Maxim, Khom, Oksihom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh, dry soil, the plant can be watered with a zircon solution.

If a plant that has a wide rosette of leaves in the form of a funnel, like bromeliads, is flooded, then it is necessary to dry the bases of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, carefully remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when they are watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read more carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in winter.

Another important point: after flooding, the soil in the pot turns sour: the roots of the plants continue to release carbon dioxide, the renewal of humus slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form that is indigestible by plants. For example, iron goes into an oxidized form (F3+), which causes a rusty-brown crust to form on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not absorbed, and as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: signs of calcium, iron, and nitrogen deficiency appear. At this stage, some gardeners do not pay attention to the condition of the soil and rush to treat the effect rather than the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer and turn yellow.

At times it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovit), but after adding fertilizer to the soil it gets even worse.

In such a situation, the only way out is to completely replace the land. And if you were in a hurry to apply fertilizer, it is advisable to rinse the roots under running warm water when replanting. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with coal and plant in fresh, dry soil.

If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth is taking a long time to dry! Such a salt crust must be removed and the top layer of soil replaced with a fresh one.

If the plant comes to you in very poor condition, do not rush to get rid of it. Perhaps the anthurium can still be saved.

A small stunted anthurium came to me in an excessively large pot and with a lump of earth, which had long ago turned into a hard stone. I soaked the dried earthen lump in water for a long time. When I finally managed to do this, I was horrified to discover that there were no roots there at all: they were dry and fell off when touched. Having torn off all the dried leaves and cleared the plant of dead “crusts”, I discovered a living core. I decided not to root it in water.

I mixed the soil for seedlings with washed sand, added wood ash and deepened the plant into the resulting soil mixture, without covering it with a jar on top, for fear of causing rot. I just put it in partial shade. Regularly sprayed with Kendal solution (biostimulator).

For almost six months the plant showed no signs of life, but it did not die either. And I decided to take it out of the ground. I pulled and it didn’t budge. As a result, I found three thick white roots, one of which broke off when I pulled it out of the ground. Since then, I have tried to be very careful when transplanting. Having carefully cut off the broken root, sprinkled it with ash and transplanted the plant into fresh soil. I took a ready-made substrate for ornamental flowering plants, added a little coniferous peat - the result was a light, fertile mixture. A layer of expanded clay was placed on the bottom of the pot.

Watering and replanting
Anthurium began to grow with incredible speed. Three shoots appeared at once from above, releasing new roots from the side, six dark green glossy leaves opened in all their splendor. My handsome man took warm showers weekly while he was without flowers. But when flowers appear, I do it carefully. Before starting water procedures, be sure to put a plastic bag on the inflorescence, since when water gets on the flower, unsightly black marks remain and it quickly fades. You can not spray the anthurium, but wipe the leaves with a damp sponge on both sides.

A year later, my ward turned into an excellent specimen of Scherzer's anthurium (A. scherzerianum), which produced 2 scarlet flowers with charming curled pink tails. I replant the anthurium every 2 years in the spring into the soil mixture that I wrote about above. During transplantation, strongly overgrown specimens can be divided or the lateral processes can be separated.

Secrets of successful cultivation
All year round, this exotic beauty needs a bright, warm place protected from direct sun. The flower is very delicate, I never take it out into the open loggia. The temperature in summer is 20-25°C, in winter – not lower than 16°C. I reduce watering a little at this time.
Anthurium loves high humidity. The best solution is to place it near a household humidifier or indoor fountain. You can place a pot of anthurium in a ceramic pot on a layer of expanded clay. To maintain constant humidity, I spray expanded clay and moss, which I cover the aerial roots with.

What is it in external signs determine the condition of the flower?
The active growth of new leaves and aerial roots, the appearance of new inflorescences is a sign of the successful development of the plant.
An indicator of too bright light, excessive dry air, drafts or lack of lighting is leaf curling.
Black spots on the leaves indicate overwatering.
If the plant is cold or suffers from drafts, the tips of the leaves turn yellow.
If the tips of the leaves begin to turn black, it means that the soil is oversaturated with calcium salts. In this regard, it is better to water the anthurium with soft, settled water. During the period of active growth, fertilize every 15 days with a complex fertilizer for ornamental flowering plants. It is advisable to remove faded inflorescences.