The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If this is a log or frame structure, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the overall concept, but for a brick bathhouse, brick is more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room. If we're talking about about traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to add it until a full wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition

On a note! For brick partition It is recommended to use red brick, not silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The structure described below is a wooden frame covered with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design features	Photo
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated deep primer and betocontact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
Upper horizontal beam the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. Dimensions of individual cells future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard sizes of insulation boards. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1.In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2. Next, you need to install formwork to create a base for the structure, taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3.The surface of the floor in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4.After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2.The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 3.Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the outer racks (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and secured with hexagonal screws. A washer is placed under each screw.

Step 4.An opening is made for the door frame - vertical posts are installed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance is 1 cm on each side more sizes frames

Step 5.Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage Special attention attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Prices for wood screws

wood screws

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1.Mineral wool mats must be placed in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2.A plastic film is attached to it on both sides of the frame (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3.The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking verticality/horizontalness and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2.Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that vertical plane, which runs along the outer edges of the boards, must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1.For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2.The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. There are platbands along the edges of the structure vertical type it is necessary to insert it into the grooves of the walls, and then attach it to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4.The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

On the picture - ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as cladding. Both they and the lining should only be made from hardwood, because coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

Platband prices

platbands

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). Such a structure will weigh quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further workplace equipped good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the premises. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

• sieve;
• Sander;
• shovel;
• mixing tank.

Step 1.First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3.Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

• level;
• pick;
• trowel;
• plumb line;
• rule.

Step, No.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.
Step 2.	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3.	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4.	If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.	The brick is laid close to the box. To attach a partition to it or to wooden walls metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6.	At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Dressing the masonry is prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

1. Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
2. The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and for door frame auxiliary reinforcement can be used (ideally this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with insignificant (compared to brick) weight, they have a O larger sizes, which means the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. Adhesive composition applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition meets the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plastering, you can use the same adhesive solution that was used for laying. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

Plaster prices

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

1. When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
3. It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
4. If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
5. The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
6. It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

The construction of the main structural elements of the bathhouse (external walls and partitions) is often carried out simultaneously.

But sometimes finished premises require division into functional zones after installation of the roof, windows and doors. In this case, an additional partition can be installed in the bathhouse, which will allow more rational and efficient use of the interior.

The need and features of constructing a partition

The partition is functional and decorative element any bath. This design has the following advantages:

• aesthetic appearance;
• strength, wear resistance and durability;
• high sound absorption rates;
• ease of installation;
• availability of materials for construction.

The choice of a suitable method for constructing a pier is determined design features baths In brick buildings, it is logical to build partitions from brick, in wooden baths - frame or timber.

The partition between the steam room and the dressing room has two main openings: a door and one for heating equipment.

Internal bath partitions are constructed from cinder blocks, brick, plaster, concrete and wood. They have a double or single design. To increase the thermal insulation characteristics when installing the structure, a technological gap is provided for installing insulating and waterproofing material.

Important! Installation of the structure should be carried out before finishing flooring, observing fire safety rules.

Construction of a frame partition

Frame partition – the best option For ready-made baths, built from logs. Installation involves the preliminary assembly of a wooden frame from beams or boards with a cross-section of 5 × 5 cm.

For thermal insulation of the structure, a foam board, basalt or mineral wool is used.

Technology for constructing a frame partition with your own hands:

1. Markings are made on the surfaces of the walls and ceiling using a plumb line, cord or building level. Vertical straight lines are marked to indicate the middle of the structure.
2. A wooden frame is assembled. Individual elements are fixed to the walls using tenons; holes for the tenons are drilled electric drill. To simplify the process, you can use self-tapping screws wooden base or nails without heads. The bars are fixed at a distance of 80 cm from each other.
3. Boards or lining are mounted to the finished frame using nails without heads. The cladding is performed on both sides of the frame to increase the heat and sound insulation characteristics of the structure. The distance between the sides of the sheathing is filled with the selected insulation.

Important! The wood material for constructing the frame is pre-treated with antiseptics to prevent possible rotting and destruction. For decorative cladding, it is worth using lining made of hardwood.

Construction of a brick partition

A brick partition is relevant for brick and stone baths. To obtain a lightweight structure, hollow bricks can be used for masonry.

The process of bricklaying the wall is carried out step by step:

1. Marking is carried out to determine the boundary for the future partition.
2. Preparation of materials and working tools. Kneaded masonry mortar cement-based (M 400 or 500), construction sand with the addition of water. First they mix bulk materials with gradual introduction of water. The proportions of the components are 1: 3 (for 1 part cement 3 parts sand).
3. A string is pulled along the drawn line to maintain an even plane of order. The laying starts from the wall, a small part is applied to the base of the floor cement mortar and the first brick row is laid. To increase the strength of the structure, metal strips and reinforcement are used in the process.
4. The first row is treated with a connecting solution, on which the next row is laid.
5. All rows of the structure are laid in a similar manner. A wide metal strip or reinforcing rod along the entire length is installed above the doorway, after which the brickwork continues to the ceiling.

Decorative finishing brick wall done with plaster after completely dry masonry mortar.

Construction of partitions from foam blocks

In a brick bath, the partition between the steam room and the relaxation room can be made of foam blocks - a material that is more accessible to install and use.

The significant advantages of the blocks are:

• low weight compared to brick;
• large dimensions, thanks to which the construction of the structure is completed faster;
• convenience and ease of installation;
• low cost.

The material installation technology is similar brickwork, provides next steps works:

1. The preparatory stage is carried out in the same way as in the previous version. Carrying out the necessary markings, fixing the cord to determine the contours of the future structure.
2. Dry laying of the initial block row. If necessary, the blocks can be cut with a grinder or a hacksaw to obtain the required width.
3. To connect individual elements, a special adhesive solution for foam blocks is used, prepared according to the instructions.
4. The adhesive mixture is applied evenly in a thin layer, after which the foam blocks are installed in a row. For additional structural strength and reliable connection to the walls, reinforcing rods or nails up to 6 cm long are used. They are installed in holes previously prepared in the wall.
5. After the partition has been erected to the upper level of the doorway, several reinforcing bars are installed above it along its entire length as a base, after which the blocks are laid up to the ceiling.

The same adhesive mixture is suitable for plastering foam blocks. After drying, the wall is primed and puttied. As decorative material a coloring compound or ceramic tiles are used.

Features of a wooden partition

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink is the simplest and affordable option designs that require minimal time and money investments.

To ensure sufficient thermal insulation between the washing room and the steam room, it is better to build partitions from a wide board or timber. This design does not provide for the presence of technological gaps in the inner part of the wall, which helps prevent the accumulation of excess moisture in the room.

In this case, the rejection of the heat-insulating layer in the walls is explained by the fact that during operation the bath structure requires maximum heat accumulation in all functional rooms. Since a lower air heating temperature is maintained in the washing compartment, the lack of heat is compensated by the heated steam room.

Features of glass partition

IN wooden bath glass partitions can be installed that are durable, aesthetic and functional. Such designs provide heat maintenance, are durable, easy to install and operate.

The walls are erected near the stove due to the fact that they are made of high-strength tempered glass. This material is resistant to deformation, overheating and mechanical damage.

The following types of glass partitions are used in the steam room:

• stationary;
• compartment;
• radius;
• hanging;
• folding;
• transforming.

Compared to traditional partitions, glass structures are heavier and require a supporting frame. When constructing partitions, they use various techniques surface decoration: laser engraving, photo printing, stencil, sandblasting and stained glass applique.

Glass structures have the following advantages:

• aesthetics and attractiveness;
• resistance to temperature changes and high humidity;
• long service life;
• fire safety and environmental friendliness of the material;
• the possibility of visual zoning of premises;
• variety of styles and colors;
• ease of installation.

A serious disadvantage of glass products is the formation of condensation in conditions of high humidity. It is especially harmful for retractable mechanisms, with which the frame is equipped.

To protect against high humidity, it is recommended to use silicone-based impregnating compounds. The high cost of manufacturing the partition is also considered a significant disadvantage, which is compensated by the quality and durability of the structure.

Construction various partitions in a bathhouse made of logs, bricks or foam blocks is a serious and labor-intensive process that requires technical knowledge and skills. But subject to careful study of the information on how to make a partition, even a novice master will be able to correctly perform installation work.

We will talk about a frame partition in a bathhouse made of log house separating the dressing room and the washing compartment. The choice in favor of these rooms was made so that it could be shown how to make a partition with your own hands between such seemingly different bath rooms in their functionality.

The wooden partition, which will be discussed in this article, is a wooden frame, insulated mineral wool and lined with clapboard.

Considering that the washing compartment has insulated and reinforced concrete screed 150 mm thick, then a concrete curb 125 mm wide and 100 mm high is made to install the base of the frame. In addition, a concrete border will allow you to lay ceramic tiles along the partition, insulating wood paneling walls from water.

A concrete border can be made both during the pouring of the screed and during the installation of the partition, using a homemade wooden formwork. To better bond the concrete being poured to the floor, its surface should be treated with deep soil and concrete contact, for example, from Knauf.

The vertical posts of the frame are made of planed bars: the internal ones are 50x100 mm, and the outer and doorway– 60x100 mm. The horizontal tie bars (top and bottom) have a cross-section of 60x100 mm. All jumpers are made of 50x100 mm timber.

The base is attached to the concrete curb using 16 mm anchors. The outer posts are installed in the groove in and secured to it with 8x90 mm hex screws. To ensure that the frame does not interfere with the settlement of the log house, oval longitudinal grooves are made in the racks. This will allow the screws to slide along with the wall and not create unnecessary stress on the frame, and with it on the entire partition.

The top tie bar does not reach the ceiling by 30 mm. This gap serves to compensate for settlement or expansion of the log house as a result of atmospheric phenomena and the change of seasons. The groove in the wall is cut to the full height, starting from the floor in the dressing room and ending with the ceiling.

Mineral (basalt) wool 100 mm thick, for example “Rockwool”, is used as insulation. Some frame cells have dimensions of 600x1200 mm, which corresponds to standard sizes produced cotton wool. The wool is closed and secured with a stapler on both sides of the frame with a plastic film, which prevents moisture from penetrating into the wool, thereby preserving all its heat-insulating, sound-absorbing properties.

The eurolining is fastened with clamps on a lathing made of 25x50 mm planks. The sheathing itself is mounted on top polyethylene film and is attached to the frame with wood screws. The direction of laying the lining is from the very corner of the partition using the tongue-and-groove method, and not vice versa. On the dressing room side, the lowest lathing strip is additionally secured to the floor, and in the washing compartment it is placed on a concrete curb and attached only to vertical posts frame.

The final finishing of the partition is done after installing the door frame. First, skirting boards are installed, which at one end are inserted into the groove of the wall. Then the edges of the partition are closed with a board (platband), which are also inserted into the same grooves.

The upper casing is attached directly to the ceiling with the condition that it will move freely with it during the process of settling the log house, without affecting the partition itself. The gap between the ceiling and the top of the partition is sealed with cotton wool or other heat-insulating material.

Connections wooden elements are made using galvanized wood screws. Open parts are also secured with self-tapping screws. To prevent the screw heads from being visible, you can pre-drill a stepped hole, and after screwing in the self-tapping screw, close it with a wooden dowel (pin) of the same diameter.

On the washing side, the bottom of the wall is finished ceramic tiles, and then the lining is placed on it end-to-end. A strip (plinth) is attached to the bottom of the lining along the entire partition to the frame posts, which covers both the lining and part of the tile.

The procedure for constructing a frame partition with your own hands

Perhaps I shouldn’t have described the design of a wooden partition in such detail, but started right away with the order of work for its installation. However, what is done cannot be returned. And whoever is not interested in this can immediately go to this section of the article, using it at the beginning.

Preparation of concrete base and log walls

Installation of a wooden partition frame

Note: at this stage of work, special attention must be paid to the accuracy of the alignment of the frame frame, as this will affect the quality of the entire internal wall. Verticals, horizontals, flatness, dimensions - all this will affect what kind of partition we get.

Insulation and installation of sheathing on the frame

Note: the film can be placed under the base of the frame already at the stage of its installation. Then the issue of securing it in the lower part will be immediately resolved.

Installing a door frame into a partition opening

Ceramic tiling in the washroom

This operation can be performed both before and after clapboard covering. The main thing is that the junction of the forcing and the end of the ceramic tile should be made accurately and without gaps. As for laying tiles on the floor, this can be done at any time.

Sheathing with clapboard on sheathing

You need to start from the very corner. The lining is sheathed using the “tenon and groove” method. That is, the last fixed element must have an open groove. Each subsequent element is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previously fixed lining, and with the help of metal clamps ( mounting bracket) is fixed to the sheathing. The last lining is cut under right size and secured with self-tapping screws. You can see details on how to attach the lining.

Installation of platbands, baseboards and sealing of partition edges

Finally

This version of the wooden partition design is intended for a log bathhouse, which has stood for the required time and has completely settled. The compensation gap (30 mm) between the partition and the ceiling is designed only for changes in the size of the frame under the influence of atmospheric influences and weather conditions.

If there is a need to build a partition in the bathhouse before the log house has completely settled, then this gap should be increased to 60-80 mm.

On the side of the washing compartment, the frame lining can be made of waterproof plasterboard. In this case wooden sheathing should be replaced metal profile. Such a partition can be easily tiled with ceramic tiles and easily installed there.

It should be remembered that the cut grooves in log walls reduce their strength. Moreover, the deeper and wider the groove, the less strength the wall is. To protect the logs from rolling out (deformation), you should already tie the logs at the site of the proposed partition at the stage of wall construction wooden dowels, as a rule, with a diameter of 30 mm. You can read how to do this in the article about.

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A bathhouse is a fire-hazardous structure with high humidity, so when constructing it, many nuances must be taken into account. During the construction process, it is important to observe accepted standards and standards for installation of functional elements of the structure. A wooden, brick or foam block partition of a sauna stove plays an important role - it separates rooms of different functionality and ensures the safety of those in the steam room. The choice of design and material depends on many factors, including specific construction conditions.

Arrangement of a bathhouse and the purpose of partitions

Back in the days Ancient Rus' It was customary to regularly take a steam bath in a Russian bath. The procedures lifted the tone, gave strength, gave a charge of energy and vigor. IN modern times every owner country house concerned about the issue of health improvement and disease prevention, for which many owners decide to build a steam room.

When buying a stove for a bath, you need to not only think about the ratio of the device’s power to the area of ​​the room. It is equally important to choose the optimal location for its installation. The heating device can be positioned in the following ways:

1. In the center of the bathhouse. This best option quickly and evenly heat a large room.

1. Near load-bearing wall buildings. This location of the stove or heater is often used in practice, as it allows for efficient heating of the steam room.

1. Near the partition. It can separate the stove from the steam room or be placed between the steam room and the dressing room. It is necessary to pay special attention to the waterproofing and finishing of the partition.

The last 2 types of installing a partition in a bathhouse are more common, as they allow you to heat directly from the dressing room and place the heater in the steam room. The internal walls of the building must be erected, taking into account the style of interior design and the location of the load-bearing walls.

An important criterion for choosing the material from which the partition will be made are the characteristics of the room - area, number of rooms, and others. Main role in the formation performance characteristics baths plays on the material that was used in the process of building the baths. The internal walls of the building can be made of the following materials:

• wood;
• drywall;
• concrete;
• brick.

Helpful information! The process of installing a partition in a bathhouse or sauna has many features. For example, a partition near a stove is often made of concrete or brick. The steam room is usually separated from the relaxation room by a wooden wall.

If the steam room uses a metal stove, which is heated from the dressing room, then the best option is to install a brick partition, and it is better to build it from fireclay blocks. If the stove will be heated in a steam room, then the wall can be made of wood, but in this case it must be covered with non-flammable material.

Stove partition for a bath: types and features

Depending on the material from which the structure is built, the partition can be made of brick, timber, boards or foam blocks. If the building is made of a frame or log house, it is better to use wood, but for arranging a brick bathhouse, brick is optimal. Let's consider which do-it-yourself sauna stove partition is most optimal and safe to use.

Even a small bathhouse is divided into 2 rooms for different purposes: dressing room and steam room, which is usually combined with a shower room. When settling in bath room It is important to consider the type of heating device that is installed in the steam room:

• If there is an iron stove in the bathhouse, then it is better to install a partition frame structure or from boards. To ensure fire safety, it must be more than 10 cm from the stove.
• If it is a traditional brick oven, it is considered a partition itself. In this case, it is enough to report it by building walls.

Helpful advice! To install a brick partition, experts recommend using red brick rather than silicate brick. This reliable and durable building material is characterized by high moisture resistance and thermal insulation.

Partitions in a wooden bath

Wooden steam rooms include the following designs:

• Bathhouse made of rounded logs.
• Frame-panel structure.
• Construction from profiled logs.

In a log bathhouse, you can design a partition that is unique in design and easy to use. For this purpose, the technology of constructing a 5-wall log house is used. This method of arranging a bathhouse must be performed by professional specialists and requires significant costs.

Helpful advice! If you are going to heat the bathhouse irregularly, experts do not recommend doing so wooden buildings internal partitions made of brick. Wood and brick have different thermal conductivity, in cold period It will take a lot of time for a year to heat up a brick wall indoors.

If desired, you can build partitions between the steam room and the sink from the same material used to decorate the external walls of the building. The walls inside the room do not need to be protected from the influence of atmospheric phenomena, moreover, if you use similar material smaller cross-section, then problems will appear at the point of their connection. Therefore, partitions inside a bathhouse are often created using frame technology. Reliable frame partition in a brick bath can be built using boards, beams and insulation. Stages of work:

1. For interior walls you need to find boards of a certain size. They should be 3-5 cm thick and approximately 10-15 cm long.
2. At the first stage, the boards are stuffed onto a pre-assembled strong frame made of beams, laying a layer of insulation between them. It must be covered with waterproofing.
3. If foil is used in the steam room, then it must be attached to the inner wall.
4. On last stage The sheathing is installed along the partition made of boards and the structure is covered with clapboard.

If you plan to install a metal stove in the bathhouse, which will be heated from the dressing room, then the best option is a partition made of refractory fireclay bricks. It is often done with 2-3 bricks on each side of the metal stove. According to safety requirements, the height of the partition should be up to the chimney exit from the room or to the ceiling.

If the stove is heated in a steam room, then you can do wooden partition. In this case, it must be sheathed with non-flammable building materials, and the stove must be installed at a distance of more than 1 m from the structure.

Partitions in block baths

Some owners country houses They build baths from foam blocks - an environmentally friendly cellular material made from cement, sand and water and sand. What should be the partition of a sauna stove if the structure is built of blocks? Condensation will constantly settle on the brick and stone walls, which must be drained. Therefore, experts recommend using frame technology, due to which the room will heat up faster.

Professionals advise using magnesite sheets instead of regular boards, which are also suitable for creating partitions in a bathhouse made of timber. Magnesite panels are made from cellulose fibers and perlite. These are non-flammable building materials that tolerate high humidity. In terms of strength, durability and moisture resistance, magnesite is better than OSB boards. Rooms decorated with soapstone magnesite look especially aesthetically pleasing.

Magnesite panels are mounted on both sides on vertical profiles, and insulation is laid between them, which must be protected waterproofing layer. As finishing sheets, you can use any material, for example, lining. If the partitions are without insulation inside, then they are made in 2 boards, 30-50 mm thick. An air space is formed between them, which performs an important insulating function.

Helpful advice! If you decide to use brick, it is better to build a heating panel for the stove. In this case, the brick will not only heat up from the surrounding air, but will be able to transmit heat from the stove and transfer it to the bathhouse, effectively heating the room.

Professionals advise mounting brick partitions taking into account the following nuances:

1. Scraps of reinforcement with a cross-section of 6.8 mm must be inserted into the main walls of the building, and the second end of the rod must fit into the seam of the brickwork.
2. The width of the furnace partition should be at least half a brick, and every 2-3 rows of masonry must be additionally reinforced with steel wire.
3. If you build a brick partition in an environmentally friendly wooden log house, this can be done when the structure settles. To take into account the ongoing shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to connect the partition to the main walls through a board inserted into the groove.

Regardless of the partition in the bathhouse, it will be affected by high air humidity, and this effect will be negative. You can increase the service life of a building by installing waterproofing materials. The waterproofing layer is laid before the installation process. finishing materials. Most often, kraft paper or foil is used for this.

After the partition in the sauna stove is installed, it is recommended to attach reflective material to it, directed towards the main room. In this way, the maximum amount of thermal energy can be concentrated in the building. Between the finishing lining of the partition and the layer of waterproofing material there must be a ventilation gap 15 cm thick.

Making your own steam room with a sauna stove partition is an achievement that will allow you to enjoy healthy bath procedures for many years. In order for the stove installation to be carried out correctly and to exclude the possibility of a fire in the building, it is enough to follow simple rules and safety requirements. Then your steam room will become a favorite and safe resting place for your family members, relatives and friends.

The partition between the washing and steaming compartments of the bath can be made in several ways. The most common option is the manufacture of a wooden frame; in second place is a solid timber partition, the manufacture of which is quite expensive. And the last way to separate two rooms involves arranging a solid brick wall half a brick thick.

We will consider a frame partition made of wood as the easiest to manufacture. Metal racks are also used as the basis of the frame partition, but this option is used much less frequently, since the metal is prone to destruction under prolonged exposure to high humidity.

A wooden partition is made quickly enough and does not require large financial and labor costs, in comparison with solid walls made of timber or brick. At the same time, the air space in the voids between the frame elements causes condensation to form at the points of temperature difference between the heated steam room and the colder air inside the partition.

In the diagram PO - steam room, MO - washing department.

An important question when choosing the type of partition is to insulate it or not? Here again we can return to the comparison different types pier. In front of a solid partition made of timber, brick or block, this question does not arise at all. On my own dense material Such walls will adequately protect the washing compartment from overheating. At the same time, it does not have high enough thermal insulation properties to prevent heat from leaking into the washing room at all.

How to make a partition with your own hands?

The first step is to make a wooden frame, when arranging it you need to pay special attention to its attachment to the walls. This is important when the bathhouse is made of fresh timber or logs. These types of buildings inevitably shrink over time, which must be taken into account when creating any internal partitions.

The partition in the photo above is installed on the walls using special metal fasteners designed to create a so-called “sliding partition”. The corner is fixed motionless on the partition block, and installation to the log house wall is carried out using stainless steel screws so that they can move inside the vertical fastening groove.

An alternative would be to install a wooden sliding structure, without the use of metal corners.

The partition is fixed to the ceiling with a metal fastener with vertical grooves. By analogy with wall corners, stainless steel screws are screwed into them, which over time will move along these grooves.

A foil vapor barrier on kraft paper is laid on top of the wooden frame on the steam room side. All joints of the material are sealed with foil tape. There should be no unclosed holes or damage in the vapor barrier layer to prevent moisture from penetrating into the wall.

As you can see in the photo, the surface of the wall near the floor has a small plinth made of tiles. The tiles are mounted on top of SML or DSP boards using special glue. The slabs are attached directly to the frame or to a sliding structure if there are abutments to the walls of the log house.

Installation is being carried out on the sheathing finishing partitions on the side of the steam room, in this case it is lining.

An important point is where the walls meet the floor. Here you need to carefully ensure that the vapor barrier layer is continuous.

To insulate or not?

Regarding this, it is worth saying that here you should look at the circumstances, taking into account the characteristics of a particular bathhouse. First of all, you need to determine how much the washing room needs to be warmed up. If the bathhouse design has a washing room around the perimeter external walls has good thermal protection or a brick shield or part of the steam room’s brick oven is placed in the wall between the washing room and the steam room, then it is obvious that the washing compartment does not need additional heating.

If there is no need to additionally heat the washing room, thermal insulation can be placed in the frame between it and the steam room. This will make it possible to retain more heat in the steam room, as a result of which it will warm up faster and cool down more slowly. In addition, the use of an insulated partition guarantees protection of the sink from overheating, which often happens in bathhouses that have good thermal insulation external walls of the structure.

In general, insulation is not performed in the partition. The fact is that the insulation in the space between the wet steam room and the wet washing room will inevitably collect moisture. Feature of heat-shielding material made of basalt wool is that on one side it must be able to evaporate moisture from its surface. That is, it will be necessary either on the side of the steam room or on the side of the washing compartment not to protect the wall with a sealed vapor barrier.

In the bathhouse, both the washing room and the steam room have high humidity and in each of these rooms, as a rule, a vapor-proof film is installed to protect the wooden frame from large quantity moisture in the air of both compartments. If there are mineral wool slabs in the wall, then even if a sealed protection from moisture is created on both sides, they will still collect moisture, and there is nowhere to evaporate it.

The only acceptable option for installing thermal protection in a partition is to make special openings for ventilation with the arrangement of ventilation gaps. The holes are made not in the walls, but at the ends of the frame.

Thus, we can conclude that if sufficient thermal insulation of the washing room is needed from overheating, you should install a solid partition made of timber or thick boards without cracks and free space inside the wall. This design will isolate the washing room from active heat coming from the steam room and will not create a danger of excessive condensation.

The lack of insulation in the wall in most bathhouse buildings is rather a necessity. This is due to the fact that it is the steam room that actively warms up the entire building and the washing room needs heat no less than other rooms, but rather even more. The wash compartment, as a rule, is colder than we would like, and the heat coming from the steam room just compensates for this shortcoming.