The procedure for leveling walls involves a rough finish (plaster) and a fine finish (putty). When the surface is plastered, even with the most painstaking application, small irregularities and sagging always remain on it, which are formed from the sharp corners of the spatula. These are consequences of the acceleration of the putty mass or the joining of two treated sections of the wall. Therefore, craftsmen prefer to use a large spatula to minimize the number of problem areas. And before you start polishing, the wall must dry thoroughly for at least a day. Hence the conclusion: the better the quality of work, the less hassle finishing will cause.

Sanding walls after puttying - This mechanical work, which is produced using dry, clean putty, without any primer!

Depending on the area and type of surface, rational choice How to sand the walls after puttying will help significantly save time and effort:

• if the surface is small, use dry sanding with a stone;
• for large areas it is better to use a surface grinder electric car, but keep in mind the nuance that you will have to bring the corners to perfection manually;
• if the plane is large and complex, with bends and protrusions, an eccentric one is well suited Grinder with decent power.

What type of sanding block should it be? In addition to the base with a handle and clamps, you need to stock up on strips of sandpaper of the required grit or sanding mesh, since the abrasive constantly wears out and requires replacement. There is no universal advice on what to use: everyone chooses it at their own discretion. The paper or mesh is fixed into a beam, where it is held with special clamps.

The “advantage” of the sanding mesh is that its pores are not clogged with putty dust. Due to the holes, dust does not linger in it and falls off. True, it is somewhat more expensive than paper. The mesh must be replaced when its canvas is worn out - it is easy to see or feel that the work is not working efficiently. It is sold already cut to the size of the beams, so when purchasing, you should know what tool you are using.

Sandpaper is changed much more often than mesh, so large quantities will also cost a decent amount. It is sold in various configurations: rolls, sheets, etc. For economical consumption, think about how it will be more profitable for you to cut it, taking into account the size of your bar. You can buy already cut pieces, but it is not profitable. When you cut mesh or paper, don't forget about the allowance on the block for the clamps!

It is difficult to correctly recommend grain size; it is easier to determine this experimentally. Take samples of 60, 80, 90, 100 grit pieces and try them on the wall. How less number, the coarser the sandpaper, and if the fraction is too fine, it will instantly fail.

Depending on the subsequent treatment, the smoothness of the wall may vary. If it is to be painted, you will have to polish it twice, first with coarser sandpaper, say 60, which will remove obvious lumps from the surface, and then with finer paper or mesh, 100-120, to give it a perfect smoothness. If wallpaper is to be glued to the wall, one, rougher sanding will be enough.

Of course, having a grinding machine makes polishing walls much faster and easier. It is able to provide ideal surface quality and, most importantly, attracts dust. Many models have a special ergonomic design holders, from which your hands do not get tired, and some sanders extend telescopically and allow you to work while standing on the floor, on a remote section of a wall or ceiling.

Homemade instrument

It is worth paying your attention to how to sand in hard-to-reach places: corners, joints, niches. With the help of a simple device you will make this part of the job easier for yourself.

Take a piece of any plastic, for example, L-shaped profile and cut it so as to get an even strip of plastic about 7cm wide. WITH reverse side Glue sandpaper onto double-sided tape and cut the strip of plastic into 17-20cm pieces. Trim the corners so that the grater resembles the shape of a pencil. You can even combine different grits on the same surface of your mini grater.

Now you have a convenient tool that you can use in hard-to-reach places. Work with a corner, and as it wears, cut it off.

Dust protection

Remember that sanding is a dusty job and small particles will penetrate even through the cracks of doors and settle throughout the apartment. Therefore, before starting, it is better to spend a little more time on preparation than later on painfully getting rid of the all-pervading dust.

Stock up on special film to protect furniture (it costs a penny), and cover with it everything that cannot be taken out of the room, carefully securing it with tape. Plastic windows We cover it with film and seal it around the perimeter. We hang one damp towel on top of the door, plug the vertical gap with the second, and place the third under the threshold.

Be sure to wear a respiratory mask and goggles, and don’t forget to shake out your clothes before washing them.

How to sand walls after puttying

When the tool is ready, dust measures have been taken, you can start working. Lighting is an important part of it: turn on a spotlight or flashlight next to the wall and all the irregularities will become clearly visible to you. At this stage, it is useful to outline the work plan on the surface: bumps, depressions and other defects will create shadows from the light - outline them with a pencil. This will serve as a guide when you start working.

We start sanding from the corner and go down in a strip about a meter wide. Then we rise again and go down. We sand, pressing slightly on the putty, using spiral movements.

During the process, we look at the surface: if it is already quite smooth, we don’t get hung up and move on: excessive zeal can lead to holes in the putty.

If you started sanding with one number of mesh or paper, finish with that number.

If you suddenly notice a small depression or flaw, you don’t need to rub around it, trying to bring it level - here you also risk erasing the putty. Leave it alone, you will come back to it when the sanding is finished and the wall is primed. Using a rubber spatula, carefully putty this area flush with the wall.

How to check the perfectness of the surface when the work is finished? The first method is to direct the light from the lamp close to the wall, bright light will clearly highlight all the flaws. The second way is to attach a regular building level to the plane and move it, observing whether cracks form. If you notice gaps, it means that a little more putty was put somewhere. We correct the defect with a sanding block.

However, even at this stage it cannot be said that the work on preparing the wall is finished. After sanding, the entire surface remains covered with a layer of fine dust, which can cause great harm when wallpapering or painting. There are two ways to remove dust:

• We vacuum the wall with an old vacuum cleaner that we don’t mind;
• brush off excess dust with a soft bristle brush, then wring out the cloth well and wipe the wall. It is very important that the rags are just slightly damp, since gypsum-based putty is afraid of water and gets washed away. If you wipe the wall in several steps, then wait until it dries after the first time.

Speaking about how to rub down walls after puttying, it would be useful to remind you: putty is a very soft, pliable material, and therefore, working with it can be made pleasant by taking into account useful tips our article.

No matter how hard you try to get a smooth surface of the walls or ceiling when puttingty, there will still be defects on the surface: strips of tubercles from the corners of the spatula blade, uneven transitions puttied in different time sections of the wall. Therefore, to eliminate these defects, after puttying it is necessary to bring the surface to an ideal surface by sanding with sandpaper or mesh.

Of all the wall repair operations, this is the most unpleasant, as it is accompanied by the release of a huge amount of dust that penetrates everywhere. It is imperative to work in a respirator, otherwise it will be impossible to breathe. You should also protect your eyes from dust with glasses that fit tightly to your face. It is better to take all things and tools out of the room, otherwise they will become covered with a thick layer of dust.

The photo was taken a few hours after sanding the walls was completed, when the dust hanging in the air had settled. The floors were clean before sanding began.

Sanding walls and ceilings

You can start sanding the walls or ceiling no earlier than a day after applying the last layer of putty, when it is completely dry and becomes hard.

There are two ways to mechanically sand walls and ceilings: manually and using an electric grinder. The choice of grinding method depends on the strength of the putty, the type of irregularities and the area of ​​the walls or ceilings.

Small bumps and stripes left by a wide spatula when dispersing the putty can be easily removed with circular movements of the palm, lightly pressing a piece of sandpaper with a grain size of 60-80 to the wall. To make it more convenient to work, sandpaper is attached to wooden block or board. But this method of grinding walls is low-productive and does not allow obtaining a high-quality surface.

It is much more convenient to sand walls and ceilings using a special machine, which is a plate of wood or metal onto which sandpaper is secured using clamps; for convenience, the machine has handles. The photo shows a grinding machine for manual grinding old construction walls. It is much more convenient to work with this machine than with a piece of sandpaper in your hand. Finishing putty is a very soft material and does not require much effort when sanding. Hands get more tired from moving the machine itself.

You can further reduce grinding time and increase the quality of work using electric grinders. Based on the principle of operation, they are of three types: belt, orbital eccentric and flat vibrating. Belt sanders have high productivity, and their use is advisable when it is necessary to remove a thick layer of material. For final sanding where it is necessary to remove very thin layer, they don't fit. Orbital sanders do not allow sanding in corners. So I purchased a MAKITA BO3711 flat sander vibration type, as universal, photograph above.

Specifications and reviews
about the grinder MAKITA BO3711

MAKITA BO3711 has excellent specifications: power 180 W, smooth adjustment of revolutions from 4000 to 10000 per minute, fastening of sanding sheets on clamps, vibration amplitude when grinding 2 mm. There are holes in the sole for removing dust during sanding and collecting it in a dust bag. Weight is only 1.6 kg.

But, unfortunately, work practice has indicated low efficiency built-in dust collection system. Due to work air system cooling the engine, part of the dust generated during grinding is picked up by the air flow and scatters throughout the room. There were no questions regarding the quality and speed of grinding. Sander, grinding “Rotband” and putty for a long time, being in conditions of strong dustiness of the grinding products, it worked properly.

Towards the end of the grinding work, another drawback of the MAKITA BO3711 appeared - the power key lock button began to jam. After finishing the grinding work, I unscrewed five screws top cover, and the following picture opened.

All inner surface, the wires and switching elements were covered with a dense layer of dust from grinding. Dust got into the gap between the button and the body, so the locking button moved with difficulty, jamming.

Using an external vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool and a small brush, almost all the dust was removed. The inside of the sander became clean, and the button began to move easily again.

The perforations used for air cooling engine of the grinding machine, which reduced the cooling efficiency of the engine and shortened the permissible time of continuous operation of the grinder. Overheating can cause the engine to fail prematurely. Therefore, if you want an electric grinding machine of any type to serve faithfully for many years, after performing large volumes of work, be sure to carry it out Maintenance, clean the ventilation openings from dust.

Sanding area when leveling walls by sanding

As I already wrote, when sanding the final layer of putty using an electric grinder, you need to apply very little force and try to hold the tool in such a way that the sandpaper is parallel to the plane of the wall. If you allow distortions or mix the tool unevenly, you may not get the expected result. Existing defects will disappear, but new ones will appear in the form of stripes and irregularities.

The working surface size of the MAKITA BO3711 emery cloth is 9 cm × 19 cm (area 171 cm2). Approximately the same size for other grinders. In order to simplify the process of sanding walls and increase work productivity several times, I came up with a simple device in the form of an attachment for the soleplate of a sanding machine.

A sheet of sandpaper No. 60-70 was attached to a plate of dense foam plastic 2 cm thick, measuring 30x33 cm (area 990 cm2). The device is held in working position on the wall with the help of four additional pins installed instead of the standard screws for securing the sander sole. The pins also transmit oscillatory movements adaptation. Thus, the area of ​​the wall surface that can be sanded by the machine has increased almost sixfold.

When I made the jig, I didn't really know the size of the plate area that the sander would handle, so I made the plate from a piece of foam I had on hand. As practice has shown, a foam plate could be taken bigger size, since no noticeable increase in the load on the grinding machine was visually observed. This is due to the fact that sanding the finishing putty requires little power, and homemade nozzle made of foam weighs almost nothing.

Making a nozzle for a grinding machine

To implement the idea that arose, the first step was to decide on the method of attaching the attachment to the soleplate of the grinding machine.

Inspection showed that the soleplate is attached to the vibrator of the grinding machine at the corners using four M4 screws. It was decided to replace the screws with stands that have M4 threads on both sides, external on one side and internal on the other. Then it will be easy to attach the device to the racks using screws.

One by one, all the screws were removed, and the racks were screwed in instead. To increase the contact area with the foam plate, silicone tubes were placed on the posts. The grinder is ready to install the attachment. Now you can start making the nozzle itself.

As a base for the nozzle, a part of the foam shock absorber from the packaging kit of a household appliance was selected. The plane on which the sandpaper was planned to be installed was leveled by cutting a small layer of foam on a homemade foam cutting machine.

There were beads on one side of the plate, and the sandpaper was secured to them using four M3 screws and nuts. After turning the beads with sandpaper and an awl, four holes were made, screws were threaded through them and secured with nuts. To prevent the screw heads from breaking through the sandpaper, wide washers were installed under them.

I used a threaded sandpaper mount because I thought I would have to change the sandpaper several times during the sanding process due to its wear. But, as it turned out, finishing putty practically did not wear out the sanding cloth and allowed me to sand the walls with an area of ​​60 m2 twice. Therefore, you can secure the sandpaper to the device using glue, clamps, and threads.

I planned to secure the device to the platform of the grinding machine using screws screwed into the stands. But trial operation showed that the device does not have to be screwed and it is quite enough if the racks are inserted into the holes pressed out in the foam. The holes in the device should not be drilled, but squeezed out, while compacting the foam. Then they will break less. To do this, first punctures are made with an awl, and then with a conical object the holes are expanded to the right size. The posts should fit tightly into the foam.

Sanding the walls with a grinding machine using an attachment revealed another of its advantages. Since the flour cut off with sandpaper fell off at a considerable distance from ventilation holes grinding machine, then air flow no longer picked up dust, and the air in the room remained clear. It was even possible to work without a respirator.

How to sand walls

Before you start sanding the walls, it is necessary to examine them in order to identify irregularities and protrusions. This operation is best done using side lighting on the wall. It is necessary to place a carrier or other light source, such as a flashlight, in close proximity to the wall and direct the light flux along the wall. Then the slightest irregularities will cast a shadow, that is, sections of the wall in the area of ​​the irregularities and depressions will be darker than the rest of the surface.

Another way is to apply a wide spatula or a construction ruler to the wall and illuminate it from the opposite side. Then even the slightest unevenness of the wall will be indicated by rays of light penetrating through the gap between the ruler and the wall.

It is better to immediately mark all detected protrusions and irregularities that need to be removed by grinding. with a simple pencil, since when grinding begins, there will be no time for examinations. If depressions with a depth of more than 0.2 mm are found, then it is necessary to additionally putty them so that you do not have to grind a lot. Thus, a unique work plan will be drawn up.

The grinding process does not present any great difficulties, especially with the use of the proposed device. It is enough to drive the sanding machine in a circular motion along the designated areas of the wall with even pressure, and the wall will become smooth.

If sanding failed to achieve the desired result the first time, then it is necessary to once again perform a continuous finishing putty on the walls, paying particular attention to Special attention problem areas in the form of depressions. Then repeat the grinding operation.

To finalize the surface of the walls for painting, I had to apply finishing putty in places three times, followed by sanding. But the walls turned out perfect, without a single defect.

The process of treating walls or ceilings consists of many stages. It all starts with preliminary preparation, which depends on the state in which the surface is located. This could be removing the old layer or work from the very beginning, which is always much preferable. In any case, the last step will be sanding the walls after puttingty. This is the final stage of processing, followed by finishing.

(ceiling) implies two types of finishing work - plaster and putty. After plastering the surface, even if everything was done as best as possible, there are still various uneven areas. This is due to the fact that the tool for such work has sharp corners. Even if you work exclusively with a wide spatula, you will not be able to avoid this. Therefore, before starting finishing the desired area should be carefully leveled.

Important! Sanding walls after puttying should be done exclusively on a dry surface. The applied solution must be given at least a day to completely dry. It is impossible to apply primer before leveling (sanding, grouting), it is simply pointless.

Based on the area that needs processing, a choice is made the best way And necessary tools. How to sand walls after puttying:

• a small surface can be processed with a sanding block;
• the presence of large areas of work requires the use of a power tool (flat grinder), but you need to understand that all hard-to-reach places and corners will have to be finished by hand;
• on complex structures where there are bends and protrusions, it is advisable to use an eccentric sander;
• The ceiling can be sanded evenly only with a power tool.

Sanding beam

This tool is quite easy to use. It is a flat base with clamps and a handle on it. Sandpaper is used as an abrasive material. You can also use a special mesh. Both of these materials are attached to the timber in the same way. It is impossible to say exactly what is best to use. Each specific case should be approached individually.

The sanding mesh has several advantages: it is sold in already cut strips, its service life is much longer due to the fact that dust does not linger in it, but it is much more expensive than sandpaper. The latter, apart from its low price, does not have any noticeable advantages, but is well suited for small jobs. For large-scale projects A lot of sandpaper is required, which significantly slows down the process itself (it must be changed often). This also affects the final cost.

Advice! If you intend to use timber, then it is important to remember that the abrasive for it must be cut with a reserve. Otherwise, it will not be possible to secure it with clamps. The mesh is selected individually for each block.

When the choice falls on paper (sandpaper) and not on the mesh, then it should be chosen correctly. This is done experimentally. Take a piece (grain size from 60 to 100) and try it on the wall. You should choose an abrasive that copes with the task.

On a note! The lower the sandpaper grit number, the coarser it is. There is no point in sanding with fine-grained abrasive; it wears off too quickly.

Painting walls and ceilings requires a lot of sanding. First, a coarse-grained abrasive is used, and then a fine one. This is the only way to eliminate all the flaws.

Sander

This is very convenient device. With this tool you can get the job done in a short time. It is very important to choose the right model that will meet all the necessary parameters. Sandpaper is also used as grinding materials, but you can purchase ready-made “consumables” that will be much more effective. The convenience of the machines lies in the fact that they are not so difficult to work with, and you don’t need to put in so much effort, especially at heights.

Grinding machine – it is advisable to use it on large areas

The process of refilling abrasives is individual, it depends on what brand (manufacturer) of the tool is used. For correct operation you should read the instructions.

DIY tool

You can make a grinding device with your own hands. For this you will need a block of wood, a piece plastic profile, one centimeter thick. The main thing is Smooth surface, preferably on both sides. To obtain a “grater” with different grain sizes, two types of sandpaper are used. It is cut into strips. Glued on each side of the bar Double-sided tape, abrasive on it. That's it, you can use it. Of course, such a device can be improved. It is suitable for urgent or small jobs. It's just that you won't be able to use the grid.

Dust protection

Sanding walls after puttying involves the presence of a large amount of dust. If you work with a grinder in indoors, then it will soon be filled with lime, and it will be completely impossible to stay in it. Also, dust will penetrate everywhere and it will be very difficult to get rid of it. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare in advance for dust removal. Of course, small works can be carried out without this.

It would be a good idea to cover all pieces of furniture, windows and more. If the work is carried out with machines, then they have a special connector for connecting a vacuum cleaner. It will suck out dust while sanding. This will also be useful when handmade. Such activities are carried out exclusively in a respirator and special clothing.

How to grind (sand) a surface

The tool has been selected, the necessary measures have been taken, and now you can sand the walls after puttying. It is important that there is good lighting, then all the irregularities will be visible. It is better to highlight the flaws immediately. A simple pencil is suitable for this. Sanding starts with top corner, then goes down. In this case, an area of ​​up to one meter is captured. The movements should be spiral-shaped, with slight pressure. The same applies when working with the ceiling.

Excessive effort should be avoided. By pressing hard, you can create dents that can only be removed with new putty. The main thing is that in order to get a flat (smooth) surface, you cannot change the abrasive material. The more appropriate the work is to finish, the better it is to start. When sanding a ceiling, it is very important to maintain uniformity of effort.

Final polishing stage

When the main work is completed, you can check the result. To do this, you should direct the light along the wall; all unfinished places will be immediately visible. Also, we must not forget about the construction level. It is applied to the surface and moved along it. Any unevenness will be visible. If they are minor, you can use a sanding block to correct them. This is done until everything goes smoothly. The putty is very soft and must be handled carefully.

The evenness of the sanded surface is checked with a building level

Advice! It happens that it is not possible to avoid pressure, then small depressions appear. They can be removed using a rubber spatula. A small amount of the mixture is applied to the damaged area. She gets smeared and rubbed. The surface must be wet.

You just can’t say that at this stage the work is over. There was a lot of fine dust left on the walls and ceiling. It must be removed, otherwise further finishing will be pointless. There are several options for this, which are best combined:

• a vacuum cleaner is used;
• dust is brushed off;
• Use a soft cloth (slightly damp) to wipe the surface; avoid over-wetting.

After each wipe, the procedure must be repeated. For getting smooth wall We must not forget about rubbing the surface.

Sanding the ceiling and walls is not such a difficult task, but it requires good preparation. It is also important to consider that such work requires accuracy. It is quite easy to correct defects that arise after puttying, but if flaws appear after sanding (pits, ruts), then you will have to tinker with them. The main thing is to immediately choose which tool will be used.

Polishing or sanding the walls is the last step in preparing them for wallpapering or painting. The procedure is necessary, since even after applying the finishing putty layer, small tubercles and irregularities still remain that appear due to the sharp ends of the spatula.

The photo shows surfaces being sanded by hand.

Let's look at it in detail below. manual method sanding walls, which is often used in home construction, and we will also touch upon mechanized processing surfaces.

Tip: do not use a primer after puttying, as sanding is done over the putty.

What is used for sanding walls?

Materials and tools include:

• manual skinner, which means a standard sanding beam;
• a special sanding sponge with cut corners, used for hard-to-reach spots;
• sanding mesh or sandpaper;

• a portable lamp or spotlight, you will need good lighting;
• high table or stepladder;
• A small spatula wouldn't hurt;
• mask or respirator for respiratory protection, hat and goggles.

Do not neglect eye and breathing protection, as the sanding process creates a cloud of fine plaster. Below we will tell you how to sand putty on walls and how best to do it.

Emery grit

You can grind with a special sanding mesh that has different area cells, or simple sandpaper. The main advantage of the first is that it does not become clogged with dust and debris from putty ().

Emery is also a good choice for doing sanding yourself, and its price is somewhat lower. However, on large areas it will have to be changed frequently, especially if it is fine-grained.

To determine its grain size there are special numbers:

• macro sizes – No. 20-220;
• micro-sizes – No. 240-2500.

Everything is simple here: if the number is higher, the skin is finer, and the number smaller, it means rougher. For household work, Nos. 60-360 are most often used, less often a little smaller.

Sanding after puttying

The basic rule when renovating a house is that sanding the walls after puttying is first done with coarse-grain sandpaper, and final stage- with small ones. In this situation, after the first layer of putty, use numbers 120-180. You can do 80-100, but that would be quite “rough”, so we won’t recommend it.

When you cover the wall with the second layer of finishing putty, use sandpaper with numbers 220-280 and below. In general, the choice of sandpaper and sanding mesh depends on the base coat. How to properly sand walls after puttying will be discussed below.

Sanding the walls

Before you start the process:

• wait until the previous layer of putty has dried;
• put on a mask, safety glasses and a hat;
• prepare good lighting. Direct the light onto the surface to be treated from one side and at an angle;
• remove any large bumps or protrusions with a small spatula.

The instructions will tell you in detail about the manual process of sanding walls:

1. Select the correct sandpaper grit. Small numbers for starting grinding.

Tip: purchase several types of sandpaper with different grain sizes in the store, for example, No. 100-180 and No. 220-360.

If you have doubts about the correct choice of product, walk it over a small area - there will be scratches, then it is better to take a larger number of sandpaper. Otherwise, the paint will not be able to cover such defects.

When preparing a wall for wallpapering, you don’t have to worry about minor imperfections and scratches. They will be hidden by subsequent finishing. Sanding under wallpaper is done much faster, since coarse sandpaper can be used in this situation.

1. Attach the selected coarse sandpaper to the sanding block using clamps and begin polishing the surface. This should be done from top to bottom. in small areas By base surface, about 1-1.5 m.

Sand the surface using even circular movements of your hand. The scheme “left-right” and “up-down” is also allowed.

Press the sanding block against the wall with slight force. Also, do not stay on one area for too long, as this may cause surface defects.

Work the intended area, make sure it is smooth, and move on. When you notice very large holes on the surface of the wall, do not touch them with sandpaper; you will fill them with putty later.

1. Go to hard to reach places and corners after you finish polishing the main part of the surface. For this purpose, use special sanding sponges with beveled corners. It is worth purchasing them in advance at construction market or in the store.

Advice: do not sand corners indoors with a sanding machine, as there is a possibility that they will have to be replastered.

You can replace the special corner sponge using the “old-fashioned device”: take a small sheet of sandpaper, roll it up and carefully clean the area, as if with a rag.

1. Remove trash, dust, make wet cleaning. Check the surface for cracks and other noticeable defects. Apply the last one finishing layer putties.

1. Begin a fine-grain final sanding. Here you should use abrasive with large numbers. The working technology of the process does not differ from the starting grinding. The only thing that needs to be done is to move the light as close to the surface of the wall as possible, and the movements of the hands should not be so sweeping. This stage is the last in the grinding process.

1. Clean again and prime the walls before applying the final finish.

Mechanized surface grinding

As we already know, you can start sanding work on the ceiling and walls only a day after it was applied. last layer putties. If the temperature indoors or outdoors is appropriate, during this time it should dry completely and become hard ().

Above we looked at the manual method of grinding surfaces, which is most often used at home. However, if you have an electric sander, the process can be significantly sped up. In addition, the surface quality will also be significantly improved.

That is why master finishers very often use mechanized method surface preparation after puttying. The device is a plate made of metal or wood, onto which sandpaper is attached using clamps. Handles are provided for ease of use.

It is much more convenient to work with a machine than with a piece of emery. Since the finishing putty is sufficient soft material and does not require significant effort when grinding; your hands get more tired from moving the device.

Grinding machines are divided into three types:

• tape;
• flat vibrating;
• orbital eccentric.

The former have high productivity and are advisable to use when working with a thick layer of material. For finishing sanding, if you need to remove a thin layer of putty, they are not suitable.

The latter do not allow grinding work in corners. Average – universal type devices that can be used in various situations.

The grinding process with its help is not difficult. It is necessary to process the selected area with slight pressure in a circular motion so that it becomes even. If you couldn’t get the desired result the first time, repeat sanding.

Conclusion

Final sanding of walls and ceilings makes it possible to prepare their surfaces for final finishing with wallpaper, paint and other materials. For this, manual and mechanized methods are used; the choice depends on the strength of the putty layer, the type of defects and the area of ​​treatment ().

In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

October 6, 2016
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Sanding walls after puttying is a very important process for the simple reason that it directly affects appearance walls Even if you did all the previous work perfectly, but screwed up the sanding, the end result will be far from ideal. But there is also good news, and it lies in the fact that, even without experience, you can achieve excellent result, and I'll tell you how to achieve this.

Don’t listen to those who claim that you can’t do it without skills and that you will ruin the ceiling or walls if you work with your own hands. The photo above is my first sanding experience; I took it on a sunny day, when all the flaws, if any, are clearly visible, but they simply aren’t there. Yes, I was afraid for the final result, yes, in some moments it was not easy, but diligence and knowledge of technology helped me, which means any of you can repeat it.

Work technology

I will begin considering the topic from the moment when the finishing layer of putty has already been applied to the surface. We'll look specifically at how to sand a surface, what you'll need to do it, and what little tricks will make your workflow easier.

It is important to remember that you can begin this stage no less than a day after finishing, and if wet spots are visible on the surface, then the start of work should be postponed until it has completely dried. This is very important, since it will not be possible to grout wet material (there are compositions for wet rubbing, but that’s a completely different story).

Necessary tools and equipment

It is impossible to carry out work efficiently and quickly without using special tools and equipment. Therefore, you must prepare in advance and stock up on everything you need. The list of main elements is presented in the table below.

Name	Recommendations for selection
Grater for abrasive mesh or sandpaper	Eat different variants width, but I advise you to purchase the 120-130 mm option; you shouldn’t take narrow graters of 80-100 mm, you need to cut paper for them, and it’s still more convenient to work with a wide tool. The latches must be metal and fit securely to the body, working surface should be a little soft for shock absorption. Also check if the handle is comfortable for you
Abrasive material	The first option is a special mesh, which is designed specifically for putty, so it hardly gets clogged during work and lasts a long time. The second solution is sandpaper in a 130 mm wide strip; its main advantage is its low price, but during operation it clogs much faster and needs to be changed more often. Below I will touch on this aspect in more detail, as it is very important.
Putty knife	We will not putty anything, but we will need a spatula for the short term for initial surface preparation. It is best to use a wide version of 25-35 cm
Step ladder	It will greatly simplify the work when sanding walls and you can’t do without it when working on the ceiling. Of course, you can use a table or a specially constructed flooring, but a ladder is more convenient due to its mobility
Light bulb with extension cord or spotlight	This element is so important that without it it is impossible to achieve perfect result. No matter what you have at hand, the main requirement is that the light flow is strong enough to flashlights and low-power lighting won't fit
Means of protection	To be honest, the first time I started working with nothing, I realized within 10 seconds how poorly prepared I was. It’s good that I had a respirator and safety glasses at home, but not everyone has them, so you need to purchase them in advance. It is also better to wear dust-proof clothes and cover your head with something so that a kilogram of dust does not settle on your hair

If you have corners, it is better to additionally purchase a special sanding sponge with a beveled edge. This is an elastic element coated on four sides with an abrasive material, with which you can perfectly align both external and internal corners.

Now let's look at the abrasive elements, since this nuance requires special attention:

• For primary sanding, paper or mesh with a grain size of P100-P120 is required. I read reviews on the Internet, where pseudo-experts advise using the P60-P80 options, I was shocked, with such a coarse abrasive you will damage the fine-grained putty so much that you will have to redo the work and re-apply the composition;

• If you are sanding a surface for painting, then you need to achieve an ideal smoothness of the surface, in this case you need to carry out a secondary treatment with mesh or paper with a grain size of P180-P240; personally, I always use the finer option. It is important not only to remove all flaws, but also to avoid the appearance of so-called scratches, when the abrasive leaves streaks;

• As for the question - paper or mesh, I will tell you this: high-quality mesh is much more convenient and durable than sandpaper, and cheap mesh is much worse in quality. It is better to purchase a good-quality mesh and provide comfortable work, it is sold in sheets, its consumption may vary depending on the unevenness of the surface, for me one element is enough for an average of 2-3 square meters.

We figured out how to sand putty on walls and ceilings; this set of devices is used when doing work manually. There are graters with long handles, but I do not recommend using them, as you will not be able to control the flatness and quality of processing, and the result will be much worse.

But there is also an automated option - a grinding machine for putty, it is used by professional specialists, since with its help the process goes much faster. But when the speed of work increases, one significant drawback appears - the quality of processing suffers, and if this option is suitable for wallpaper, then even professionals carry out the work manually for painting, unless, of course, they want to achieve best result.

Of course, it’s not worth purchasing power tools for repairs in an apartment, but if you have the opportunity to rent equipment, then you can use it; you can prepare walls for wallpaper very well and quickly. The skin is purchased separately and may have different size and configuration depending on the type of grinder and the size of its working part.

Surface preparation

I have already written about the fact that you need to start working only when the base is completely dry, but I will remind you of this nuance once again. If the composition has dried, then you can begin the preparatory measures; they are simple, so you can handle them without problems:

• Since the work is very dusty, it is necessary to remove everything unnecessary from the room, this will make it easier for you to clean up later. If it is not possible to remove the same furniture, then you need to do this: if the walls are being processed, then all the objects are moved to the middle and carefully covered with a special film. When working with the ceiling, you need to think about the location so that it does not interfere with work; again, you need to carefully cover it;

• Then you need to carefully sweep the surface and inspect it. Sometimes there are situations when, due to finishing errors, cracks appear in some places or the composition shrinks very much. You should first check whether everything is in order, so that if necessary, you can repair problem areas immediately, rather than leaving them for later;

In no case should you prime the surface before sanding, this will cause great harm, because the surface will harden and we will have to apply much more force to level it. And you can achieve an ideal result only by working with an elastic layer.

• The last stage of surface preparation is cutting off all sagging and adhering pieces of mortar with a spatula.. To do this, you take the tool, apply it at an acute angle to the surface at the location of the bead and, moving forward, carefully cut off the excess. This will greatly simplify our further work and save sandpaper, because we will not need to erase all the major flaws.

When all preparatory work carried out, make sure that everything you need is at hand and you can work calmly without being distracted by shopping trips for missing materials and components.

Main stage

Now let's figure out how to properly sand putty, detailed instructions the work looks like this:

• In order to achieve the best result, it is necessary to properly fix the sandpaper or mesh. IN usual options you need to unscrew the thumb, move the bar, insert the end of the paper under it, and then fix the element. Grinding stones and some new float models have an automatic clamp that is raised and lowered using a lever, this is very convenient;

The mesh is usually sold in sheets to fit the grater (the elements must be longer than the sole to attach them). As for the paper, it comes in a roll, so that during the work you do not tear off pieces and spoil the material, I advise you to pre-cut the elements to the required size, this will greatly simplify the replacement of sandpaper.

• Work begins from any corner on the ceiling, and if you are sanding walls, then you need to choose its upper corner. The process is quite simple: you gently press the tool and grind the surface; you don’t need to press hard, otherwise you will remove too much and make the surface not even, but even more crooked. During the grinding process, constantly monitor the condition of the abrasive element - lightly tap the block to remove the putty;

• The work is carried out in the chosen direction, it is important to process all areas, so follow the order. You also need to move the grater not at random, but in a kind of spiral. This will ensure best quality grinding and speed up the work process. To make it clearer, below is simple circuit, it will help understand the process even for those who have no idea how to work;

• When working, constantly monitor each area using a spotlight or lamp, this allows you to quickly correct individual areas and move on without returning to them. It is more convenient to use a regular carrier near the ceiling, and you can place a spotlight on a tripod near the wall, then you will constantly see the plane, and you will not need to be distracted by highlighting the area you just treated;

• If during the work you find problem areas, then you need to remember their location and after sanding, prepare a small amount of putty to seal all the flaws. Don't worry, after finishing everything will be leveled out, and the repair areas will not be visible, because you will remove all excess with a block;
• Finishing is done only if you paint the surface, it is done with fine-grained sandpaper or mesh. The technology is no different from the one described above, everything is repeated in the same sequence, it is important to be careful and try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. If your sandpaper leaves lines, then you need to take a finer option.

If you have corners, then you should pay special attention to them, the fact is that the grater leaves a strip of untreated surface, which worsens the appearance. With the help of a sponge you can eliminate this flaw very quickly and efficiently; the photo below clearly shows the difference.

After carrying out the work, you need to clean the surface from dust and apply primer; it will strengthen the putty layer and make it much more resistant to damage. After this, you can either paint the surface or apply any compositions to it.

Conclusion

We figured out how to sand putty and how to properly organize the work process in order to achieve an ideal result without unnecessary steps. Of course, if the walls were initially puttied with flaws, then they may need additional finishing, but if everything is done normally, then you can handle it without additional work.

The video in this article will clearly show the entire technology so that you can understand it, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments under the review.

October 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!