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Paving slabs are an element of decorative design of residential areas. Recently, it has become a real calling card of local areas.

Paving slabs, just like paving stones, differ relatively low cost, and in case it is solid road surface made by hand, then total costs on Consumables are significantly reduced. How to make paving slabs at home? Before you start making paving slabs at home, you need to familiarize yourself with theoretical aspect question.

Production of paving slabs at home: manufacturing principles

In industrial conditions, the process of producing paving slabs is put on stream. In a short time, huge quantities of tiles and paving stones leave the plant. When making paving slabs at home production principles somewhat change. The basic technological algorithm remains unchanged, only the volume of produced material and its type are adjusted. High-quality work will allow you to achieve paving slabs that are not much inferior to the factory model.

Manufacturing technology DIY paving slabs are based on two directions: vibration casting method and vibration pressing method. Both can be used at home with special equipment. You can build individual devices with your own hands.

Undried tile material contains a small amount of liquid. In both production methods, the wet concrete mass is exposed to a vibration wave to eliminate accumulated air bubbles. When vibrocasting, the solution acquires a more liquid consistency, so it is served in flexible forms. There it is kept until the initial drying. The second method, as its name suggests, involves applying pressure to form tile segments in a matrix. For this, a special vibration platform is used. After such mechanical influences, the workpieces are removed and placed to dry.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are made of concrete, the first thing you need to do is purchase concrete mixer. It is better if it is a forced-action concrete mixer that functions like a mixer. You can’t do without a vibrating table, casting molds and lubrication, concrete mixture, metal rods for reinforcement, racks for drying finished products.

To dry in one layer under a canopy, you need free space significant area. Completed forms must not be stacked on top of each other. The products are placed on shelves so that there is a gap of at least 20 cm between them.

In construction hypermarkets you can purchase molds for casting of any size and various configurations. There are forms from:

• rubber (the most durable);
• plastics;
• polyurethane.

The range is very wide, the manufacturer produces them according to individual order, either forms with drawings, textured surface or shaped for glossy paving slabs OK.

Lubricant is needed to carry out problem-free stripping of workpieces after the concrete has hardened. It is purchased in finished form or they make it themselves. simplest lubricant recipe: 100 g of mineral oil is mixed with three liters of water until an emulsion is formed.

The main thing: it is necessary to achieve the required level of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can give the finished tiles an unpresentable appearance.

How to prepare a solution for paving slabs?

Making mortar for hard road surfaces – key moment the entire technological process. The solution consists of:

• hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 2-10 mm or granite screenings or gravel;
• purified washed sand;
• Portland cement;
• concrete plasticizer;
• dry dyes;
• water.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs varies depending on the properties finished product are of interest to the consumer.

There is nothing complicated in preparing a mixture for paving slabs or paving stones, but it requires careful preparation components and methodical adherence to all stages. The amount of each ingredient is easily calculated when the required proportions of the volume of substances are known.

First of all, prepare additional components– plasticizer and concrete dye. The latter is used for the production of colored paving slabs. In the manufacture of products of the usual gray there is no need for it.

The plasticizer, as a rule, makes up no more than a percent of total number all parts of the mixture. To mix 80 liters of concrete you need 400 g of plasticizer. It should be noted that it is not added dry. In small portions, 400 g of plasticizer is poured into 2 liters of water heated to 70 degrees.

The dye accounts for approximately 2% of all components polymer mixture. Approximately 700 g of dye is added to water (2.5 l), heated to 50 degrees, and stirred thoroughly.

The inner walls of the concrete mixer must be moistened. For this purpose, the device is rinsed from the inside, then the water is drained. The ratio of the cement mixture to the liquid determines how strong the concrete product will be.

To make high-quality paving slabs, the concrete being mixed must be half wet. This effect is achieved by adding 25% less water than cement. An illustrative example: for six buckets of cement (this includes plasticizer and dye) you need four buckets of water.

First, water is poured into the concrete mixer, after which a portion of cement is added. As a result stirring You should get a homogeneous emulsion. After adding screenings to the resulting emulsion, a solution is obtained that must be thoroughly mixed. Next, you should pour in the pre-diluted plasticizer and dye. Polymer composition knead until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

You can make a mixture for paving slabs using manual stirring, but this method requires good physical preparation and additional time.

Molds for making paving slabs

An important role in the manufacture of paving slabs is played by molds for the production of such building product. The most common among them are plastic, rubber, and polyurethane. Each type has its own characteristics and technical characteristics. Thus, molds made of rubber can withstand about five hundred production cycles. Rubber molds are not steamed and do not require any additional equipment.

Often when paving paths they use paving stones, which has a relief surface. In such cases, it is advisable to use polyurethane forms. Building mixture It sets quickly in them, and the finished elements are easily removed. Polyurethane synthetic fibers, being high-strength, practically do not allow the appearance of defective products. Shapes from this modern construction material They can withstand about a hundred cycles without any complaints. How to make molds for tiles with your own hands?

Instructions for making a mold for paving slabs with your own hands:

• To make plastic molds, a special frame is prepared. Inner dimensions wooden frame must correspond to the dimensions of the tiles. The plastic is melted and poured into the structure. After the plastic has hardened (approximately 40–60 minutes), the finished mold is removed. The uneven edges of the resulting product are processed using sandpaper.
• If pouring silicone is used to make molds, then a pre-prepared container matrix is ​​required. It can be made from some durable material. The seams are sealed with sealant. Screws are used to fasten the walls of the container. The frame is cleaned and degreased. The silicone ingredients are mixed in the required ratio: base, hardener, catalyst. Sculptural plasticine is placed in a thick layer into the matrix. A model is placed on top of the plastic material, which is used to take an impression. Before this it is lubricated sunflower oil. Next, silicone is poured in in a thin stream. After 24 hours, the materials will harden and the finished forms will be removed from the container. Small defects and irregularities are removed using scissors.
• You can make a wooden mold without a bottom using bars. From prepared wooden planks, fastened with metal corners, you can get a rectangular, square or hexagonal molding structure.

Why do you need a vibrating table?

The procedure for manufacturing paving slabs involves the use of an equipped vibrating table. Beginners in this business are strongly recommended to use vibrating table, since it is unlikely that without its use it is possible to obtain high-quality paving slabs or paving stones. This is explained by the fact that even the most plastic material is not able to tightly fill the mold without the formation of air voids.

Not everyone can afford expensive equipment, so you can make a vibration table yourself. You will need an unnecessary electric motor in working order and two thick plywood sheets. The engine is attached to these sheets of plywood on two opposite sides. A metal disk is attached to the rotating motor shaft, which creates vibration when the mechanism is turned on. Homemade design placed on car tires.

The forms filled with cement composition are laid out on a vibrating table, which is turned on for 15-20 seconds. This time is enough for the solution to thicken and air cavities to disappear from it. Elimination of air space and compaction of the mixture significantly improves strength future paving slabs. A finished paving element that has not been compacted by vibration will soon collapse. Such tiles are used only as a temporary path. This fact must be taken into account when the question is how to make a tiled paving so that it lasts for many years.

How to properly reinforce paving slabs?

Increases the strength of the pavement covering tile reinforcement metal elements. They use both construction reinforcing mesh, hot-rolled wire, and pieces of ordinary reinforcement. Metal pieces are covered unpainted cement mortar, compact and smooth the surface.

With the described technology for the production of paving slabs, the front side is placed at the bottom of the mold. This circumstance creates difficulties: it is impossible to monitor the design, color and condition of the front side.

To be able to control everything, you need to lay cement mixture and fittings in reverse order. This will allow you to accurately apply the pattern to the tile, deepening each piece to the desired level.

If desired, perform ironing of the workpiece. Thanks to this procedure, the product acquires special strength, and its surface becomes more even and smooth. Dry cement is poured onto the damp surface and smoothed with a spatula. You can also rub in a small amount of cement with a brush.

Drying and stripping

The forms with the solution are placed on racks for further drying. It lasts approximately 2-4 days. The place for drying products is chosen so that it does not receive direct sunlight, there should be good ventilation. To reduce the rate of moisture evaporation from cement composition The molds are covered with polyethylene film.

If the forms were made with your own hands from wooden planks, then the fastener is removed at some joint, after which the frame is moved apart and the tile is removed. The tiles are laid in one layer and dried for ten days in a ventilated area to become more durable.

To release the tile from the polyurethane mold, it is lowered into a bath of water heated to 70 degrees. The polymer will soften and the tile can be easily removed from the mold. The product is dried in a cool place. After ten days, the paving elements are ready for use.

Having decided to arrange paths on the territory of the dacha, there is a desire to create convenient landscape elements that are attractive and useful. Can be used various material– wood, natural stone, crushed stone. Sidewalk tiles are in demand. Homemade tiles will harmoniously complement the appearance, successfully combining with general style yard It remains to figure out how to make it.

Advantages of homemade tiles

The process of making tiles yourself is quite difficult and lengthy, but very interesting. The result of the working cycle will be beautiful products that look great when laid. It should be added that producing tiles for finishing paths yourself will allow you to save a lot of money. cash without overpaying for finished material. Possibly tile material self-made does not meet the requirements for bearing capacity, it is not recommended for areas under loads or equipment, but for simple paths it is quite suitable. And if the concrete mixture is prepared in compliance with all technological features and proportions of raw materials, the finished product will serve for a long time.

Using successful colors and coloring compositions, it is possible to produce tiles in a variety of colors.

What is needed for production, video

The tiles are made from cement raw materials, to which sand and water are added in the required proportions, depending on the quality of the cement. It is recommended to use cement M 500. The sand mass and water must be filtered and sifted; the presence of small pebbles that do not affect the parameters of the concrete mixture is allowed.

Plastic forms necessary for production can be purchased in special stores. They are various forms and sizes, each can withstand two hundred pours. To manufacturing process don’t take too long, it is recommended to have a dozen molds of each type. Some people use plastic food containers with suitable parameters in flexibility and strength. With their help, you can cast simple equilateral shapes in the form of bricks.

The tools you will need are a container for mixing concrete, a shovel, buckets, and a trowel.

Preparing the solution

Having prepared everything necessary, we proceed to production activities. Mixing sand and cement can be done manually or with a hammer drill equipped with a mixing attachment. If you plan to make a large number of tiles, you should think about a concrete mixer.

A portion of cement and three portions of sand are poured into the mixing container. Water should be added gradually, constantly stirring the raw material. Remember that excess moisture can degrade the quality of concrete. To prevent this negative phenomenon, water-repellent additives and fiber should be added to the solution for better reinforcement. The consistency of the mixture should resemble liquid dough that does not roll off the trowel. If you want the tiles to be of different colors, add coloring pigments. After adding them and actively stirring, the solution becomes uniform in color after about seven minutes.

Fill the solution

The molds should be lubricated with an emulsion compound or used machine oil to make it easier to remove the finished products. The solution is poured into molds and compacted with a trowel. To increase the strength of the tiles, you can put a metal mesh, wire or rods in the molds. To compact concrete and squeeze air out of it, a vibration effect should be created using a vibrating table.

If there is no such design, use a rack or shelf, tapping it with a mallet.

Drying and removing tiles

Forms filled with concrete mass are covered with polyethylene and kept in this condition for several days. It is important to maintain the required humidity by periodically wetting the products with water. Drying is carried out in a place inaccessible to open sun. Unmolding is done by lightly moving the sides of the molds and shaking. You will have to dry the tiles in the shade, letting them sit for about a month. During this period, the material will gain the necessary strength and become suitable for use.

In any case, having made such beauty with your own hands, you can be sure that your life has not been lived in vain!

When planning the arrangement of garden paths on your personal plot, you always want to create functional and at the same time beautiful elements landscape design. The material for garden paths can be wooden cuts, a natural stone, gravel... But still, the most popular among owners of suburban areas as a covering for playgrounds and paths is paving slabs, which have an attractive appearance and excellent quality characteristics. Do-it-yourself paving slabs will be an original addition to the design of the site, in harmony with the style of the house and garden.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive and quite time-consuming, but at the same time quite exciting process. The result of the work is exclusive products, successfully combined into picturesque paths.

Interesting ideas for designing garden paths can be found in the material:

Such unusual paths serve as a worthy frame for flowering plants garden

In addition, making paving slabs with your own hands will significantly save money in family budget, because purchasing a ready-made coating costs many times more.

Tiles made at home may not be suitable for covering areas that are designed to accommodate heavy structures or vehicles, but they will great solution for walkways in the garden. At correct production concrete mixture and exposure to all stages of production technology, you can get a product with 100% durability.

Using colors and pigment dyes, you can create tiles of a wide variety of shades

By experimenting and coloring solutions with colors, you can get incredible combinations and patterns. Myself - interesting activity, allowing you to unleash your creative potential, bringing a lot of pleasure and positivity.

Manufacturing process step by step

In order to make original paving slabs with your own hands, you first need to purchase the manufacturing material and stock up necessary tool. The tile is created based on a mixture of cement, sand and water, maintaining proportions that depend on the purpose of the product and the brand of cement used. To make durable garden paving slabs, it is advisable to use cement grade M 500. You should not skimp on the quality of the material, so as not to stumble on a crumbling path later.

Sand and water for the solution must be free of dirt and leaves. It’s not scary if the sand contains small pebbles. Their presence will not affect the quality of concrete. But the product will acquire an unusual texture.

Advice! Using plasticizers, you can increase the strength of paving slabs and their resistance to temperature changes.

A wide range of plastic molds for filling are available in specialized stores. They can have completely different shapes and sizes. Each of them is designed for 200 fills. To speed up the manufacturing process, it is advisable to purchase ten pieces of each type of shape.

By combining 2-3 product configurations you can create unusual ornaments and fancy “snakes”

It is quite possible to use plastic containers as molds. food products, which have sufficient flexibility, softness and strength. Using containers of simple shapes with straight sides and right angles, you can make rectangular “bricks”.

These tiles fit together easily when laid.

Preparation of the solution

The necessary components are ready, we can safely start making exclusive paving slabs with our own hands. You can mix the sand-cement mixture either manually or using a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. When planning to create coatings amounting to several dozen or even hundreds of tiles, it is advisable to stock up on a concrete mixer to facilitate the process. It’s great if the owner already has it in his arsenal. After all, this is construction equipment can be used for many purposes, from concreting a stream bed in the garden to mending fence posts.

1 part cement and 3 parts sand are poured into a container, which can be a basin or bucket.

When mixing the solution in a concrete mixer to obtain a homogeneous mass, you first need to add sand, and then cement is poured into a continuously rotating container.

Add water to the mixture gradually, without ceasing to stir the solution. Exceeding the amount of water in the solution can lead to a decrease in the strength of the finished concrete. To prevent this, water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber are added to the solution at the mixing and pouring stage.

The consistency of the solution should be dough-like: slightly liquid, but not slipping off the trowel

You can paint tiles in the most unusual colors using inorganic pigments, which have increased resistance to light and weather conditions, as well as alkaline environment. The amount of dye for the solution is selected using the “sample method”, starting from 30-50 g and gradually increasing the proportion. The composition acquires a uniform color after 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the composition is determined by the absence of lumps and uniform coloring of the entire volume of material.

Pouring into molds

Before filling the mold, it is advisable to lubricate it with emulsol or any oil (you can even use used machine oil). This will make it easier to unmold the frozen product in the future.

The molds are filled with mortar and compacted with a trowel.

You can increase the strength of the product by laying it in a mold half filled with concrete. metal mesh, rod or wire, and then adding the remaining solution to the edges.

In order to compact cement mass and expel excess air bubbles from the solution, it is necessary to create vibration in the concrete. A vibrating table is used for these purposes. In the absence of such a design, a rack or shelf can serve as an alternative. To create vibration, just tap the mallet a few times on the table.

Drying and removing products from containers

Forms filled with concrete are covered with plastic film and kept for 2-3 days. During this period, it is important to maintain a sufficient level of moisture. To do this, it is advisable to periodically moisten the hardening products.

The place where the workpieces dry should be hidden from direct sunlight

After 2-3 days after casting, the tiles can be unmolded by slightly moving the sides and shaking. The product needs to be dried in the shade for another 3-4 weeks. During this time, the tiles will acquire sufficient strength and can be used as a covering for garden paths and recreation areas.

Concrete tiles for paths and platforms are used everywhere today. However, its price does not always correspond to quality. Purchased specimens often cannot withstand repeated freezing cycles and crack after 2-3 years. To provide yourself with high-quality paving stones, you need to learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands. The process does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and materials. The main thing is to understand the production technology, choose the shape and mix the “correct” solution.

The technology for making paving slabs is quite simple. However, there are many nuances that must be taken into account when planning to organize the production process.

Covering the area with paving slabs

Vibration casting or vibrocompression: choice of method

The process of creating paving slabs has two main directions: vibration pressing and vibration casting. Technologically, they have some differences, which affects the characteristics finished product.

The first method involves the use of expensive equipment - a vibration press and a heat chamber. The solution with a small amount of water is fed into the mold, compacted, and subjected to pressure and vibration. After this, the workpieces are sent to drying chamber. At elevated temperature and high humidity, the slabs gain strength sufficient for installation in places with intense load.

Vibratory casting technology involves compacting the working mixture under the influence of vibration - the solution is evenly distributed over the mold and compacted. The filled molds are moved to drying racks, and two days later the finished tiles are removed.

Vibropressing of paving slabs

Making paving slabs at home is only possible using the vibration casting method. For work, you can use inexpensive tools and equipment, and make a vibrating table with your own hands.

The production cycle consists of the following stages:

1. Preparing molds.
2. Mixing the concrete mixture.
3. Forming on a vibrating table.
4. Holding and drying in molds takes about two days.
5. Stripping tiles.

Important! Tiles made using “vibration technology” are optimally suited for creating garden paths and paths. It is not suitable for parking lots, as it is inferior in strength characteristics to pressed products.

Homemade vibrocast paving stones

Equipment and tools for organizing the process

The feasibility of purchasing this or that equipment depends on the expected scale of production of paving slabs at home. However, for work you will need:

1. Forms. The construction market offers wide choose molds for home and mass production of paving stones. The material of the mold determines the convenience and durability of its use:
   • silicone models – creation of complex structural surfaces, the form will withstand 50 cycles;
   • plastic - simplicity of ornament, strength and durability - designed for 800 production cycles;
   • polyurethane molds – hold the “geometry” of the tile well, service life – 100 cycles.

1. Rack and drying shed. The place for “setting” the concrete must meet a number of requirements:
   • horizontal racks - distortions of the base of the forms are unacceptable;
   • location of the site in the shade - exposure to sunlight can lead to cracking of finished products;
   • the presence of a canopy to protect from rain.

Important! Minimum permissible temperature for natural drying of paving slabs – +10°C.

Variety of shapes for tile production

To work, you will need additional equipment: a bucket, a shovel, a level and rubber gloves.

Instructions for creating tile molds

At home, you can create a mold for paving slabs with your own hands from wood, plastic, plaster or improvised materials.

Option 1. Making a wooden mold from boards and plywood:

1. Cut two parts from the board, the length of which is 3 cm higher than the edges of the tile itself, and the height is 2 cm higher.
2. Two more parts must exactly match the dimensions of the tile.
3. Fasten the boards with iron corners - you need to screw in screws, which can be easily removed after the concrete has hardened.

Advice. When pouring mortar into a wooden form, it is advisable to lay the reinforcing mesh in the middle of the thickness of the tile.

Wooden removable molds

Option 2. The easiest way to create a mold is to cut off the bottom of a 5-liter plastic bottle.

The height will determine the thickness of the paving slabs. Moreover, as simple shapes Unnecessary plastic containers and packaging will do. If you place a patterned mesh or leaf on the bottom before pouring, then front side will acquire a relief surface.

Plastic molds for paving slabs

Option 3. Creating a template from plaster:

1. Prepare a gypsum mixture and an approximate cladding element, for example, textured ceramic tiles with a protruding pattern.
2. Make formwork from wood according to the shape of the workpiece and insert tiles into it.
3. Treat the template with fat - this will prevent the plaster from sticking.
4. Dilute the gypsum with water, adding a little plasticizer.
5. Fill the mold with the resulting mass.
6. After a day, remove the formwork and remove the tiles.

Homemade plaster template for tiles

The disadvantage of a plaster template is its fragility. If hit or dropped, there is a high probability that the form will break.

Option 4. Having skills to work on welding machine, we can do it metal structure a simple form made from pieces of reinforcement or slats. Cut metal strips 5 cm wide according to the dimensions of the future tile and weld them together. For ease of use, provide handles.

Hexagonal metal shape

High-quality mortar is the basis for the durability of slabs

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs includes:

• cement;
• large and small filler;
• dye;
• plasticizer;
• fiberglass;
• water.

High-quality cement does not contain lumps

The components are combined in strict dosages, and each component is subject to certain requirements.

The technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home or in production involves the use of Portland cement grade M 500 (minimum M 400). An important condition is the quality and “freshness” of the cement. When purchasing, you need to check the production date (every month the composition loses 5% of its properties), the absence of lumps and flowability.

Advice. A quick test will help determine the quality of cement. On alkaline mineral water Knead the cement dough and roll it out into a thin disk. Good cement will dry in a few minutes. If it took about an hour to dry, and the disc became covered with cracks, then the composition was supplemented with foreign impurities and a low-quality binder.

Sand and crushed stone - solution fillers

Clean granite screenings, pebbles or slag are used as coarse fillers. Fine filler – quarry or river sand without clay or impurities. If, after being compressed in a fist, the sand retains the shape of a lump, this indicates a high content of clay components.

Selecting a plasticizer for making the mixture

The plasticizer for paving slabs, due to its high dispersibility, regulates the viscosity of the mixture, increasing the strength, wear resistance and moisture resistance of the product. Experts recommend adding components of the following brands to the solution: Plastimix F, Master Silk, “Component”. “Superplasticizer S-3” has proven itself to be excellent.

Fiber fiber is used to reinforce concrete mortar. Micronix 12 mm polypropylene fiber, crushed glass fiber or MicronixBazalt 12 mm basalt fiber are suitable.

Important! The length of the fiber fiber should not exceed the size of the coarse aggregate in the concrete mixture.

Types of fiber fiber used

The optimal proportions of mortar for paving slabs are shown in the table.

The ratio of components in the solution

The nuances of tinting homemade paving stones

Mineral and organic pigments are selected for coloring tiles. Artificial colors based on minerals have high coloring ability, resistance to chemical reagents and temperature changes. Natural pigments allow you to achieve muted natural shades.

Before making paving slabs, you need to decide on the method of tinting them:

• coloring on the finished product;
• adding dye to the raw mass.

Tinting paving slabs

The first method is quite labor-intensive, since high-quality painting takes a lot of time. To speed up the process, you can use a spray gun, but in this case it is difficult to achieve uniform coloring.

The second method is more expensive. Dry dyes that provide a water-repellent coating are expensive, and to achieve a durable and rich color you will need to add about 7% of the concrete weight. Therefore, many craftsmen and manufacturers use the two-layer pouring method.

The prepared form is half filled with colored concrete, and the top is filled with colorless concrete. It is important that the interval between fills is no more than 20 minutes. In addition to saving money, this method increases the strength characteristics of paving stones.

Step-by-step production of tiles using vibration shrinkage method

We will analyze step by step how to make paving slabs at home using vibration casting technology. To make paving stones, you will need to build a simple vibrating table.

Manufacturing diagram of a vibrating table

Construction of a vibration table from improvised means

The vibrating table has a design that is easy to manufacture and maintain.

To create it you will need following materials:

• sheet steel 5-10 mm thick - under the tabletop;
• metal corner 5*5 cm – to create edges on the table;
• channel with holes for fixing the motor;
• pipes 4*4 cm, thickness 2 mm – support posts;
• pipes 4*2 cm - for manufacturing top bars;
• metal plates – forming the sole of the supports;
• springs that provide vibration;
• bolts and washers for fixing the engine;
• electric motor (IV-99E, IV-98E) with a power of 0.5-0.9 kW;
• electrical cable, switch, socket.

Manufacturing sequence:

Preparing the mold and mixing the solution

Before filling, the form must be lubricated with a special emulsion (“Lirossin”, “Emulsol”) or use their substitutes:

• soap solution;
• vegetable oil;
• motor oil.

Advice. It is undesirable to lubricate the mold with saline solution - it leaves stains on the surface of the product, and the template itself quickly deteriorates.

The solution is mixed in a certain sequence in compliance with temporary recommendations:

1. First, sand, plasticizer and dye are mixed. Kneading time – 30-40 seconds.
2. Crushed stone and cement are added to the dry mixture. With this composition, the concrete mixer works for another minute.
3. Then water is gradually introduced until a fairly dense consistency is obtained.
4. The final stage is adding fiberglass and kneading again for one minute.

Adding mortar components to a concrete mixer

The tile mixture, made by yourself, should not flow down the trowel, but at the same time easily fill the mold.

Vibratory casting and drying of paving slabs

Paving stone molding technology:

1. Place the greased molds on a vibrating table and pour the solution into them.
2. Turn on vibration mode for 5 minutes.
3. When a white film appears on the surface of the mixture, turn off the engine. Excessive shaking may cause the solution to separate.
4. Place the blanks on racks, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 2-3 days. Be sure to check the evenness of the surface of the racks. If the tiles dry on a slope, they will not be able to be laid evenly on the path.

Stripping homemade paving slabs

Stripping the finished product and cleaning the molds

Once the concrete has set, the tiles can be removed from the mold. To facilitate removal, the mold with filling is lowered into a container with water heated to 60°-70°C. After five minutes the finished product is knocked out rubber mallet You can spread an old blanket on a soft surface.

The “raw” tiles are dried on the same racks for another 7 days, then they are folded into pallets and gain their final hardness after a month. Only after this the material is ready for lining the paths.

Pour the used molds with a salty solution (30 grams of table salt per 1 liter of water), clean, rinse and set to dry.

Paving slabs with river pebbles

Decorative tiles with stone: master class

On a suburban area, paving stones look beautiful landscape style using river stones. A simple technology for making paving slabs with your own hands, an affordable mixture composition and natural materials allow you to implement the idea in your dacha.

1. When the composition is ready, press the stones into the solution.
2. Cover the molds with cellophane and leave to dry for four days. Water the preparations with water twice a day.
3. When the tiles begin to move away from the formwork, the product can be removed and dried without a mold.

Creating a composition and compacting stones

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a fascinating process. Guided by step by step instructions, it will be possible to create an original and quality product, designed for long-term use in the yard or garden. If you are not sure of success, you should study the topic more deeply by consulting with experts.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their country plot or areas around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere. different colors and configurations.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially since losses are possible during transportation, which means purchasing tiles with a reserve will also be an extra expense. That’s why many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount of money.

Advantages of making tiles yourself

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable in design and color.

If you decide to do self-production paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for quite labor-intensive work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the appearance that the owners intended when developing the landscape design of their properties.

Advantage homemade is also the fact that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own tile version, there is always the opportunity to experiment with color scheme and even molds, since casting matrices can also be made independently.

Molds for making paving slabs

If the store did not find a tile of the required configuration, or it was found, but the price is too high, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in quantities of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for landscaping paths and areas on the site.

paving slabs

To do this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, from which the molds are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern or a stone you like with its shape can be used as a starting sample.

The matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but during the production of the tiles the work will go much faster.

To make the mold you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is being made larger size of the original sample by 20÷30 mm in height and 12÷15 mm in width. It must be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35÷60 mm. A plywood box is suitable as formwork, cardboard box or any other material that can withstand the pouring of plastic mold composition. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound or silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In assortment construction stores You can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stones and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them is the domestic composition “Silagerm 5035”, as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding compound is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

	Hardness 30±3	Hardness 40±3
Time for the formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more.	45÷100	45÷100
Viability (min), no more.	60÷120	60÷120
	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more.	1	1
Viscosity (cP).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.07±0.02	1.07±0.02

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for making the matrix must be thoroughly washed and dried.
• Next, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in a 2:1 ratio, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to maintain the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer attachment, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will end up with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• Ready mixture carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is placed face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the pouring should sit for 5-7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the form can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to be used for its intended purpose only 72 hours after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80÷120 degrees.
• The mold made from the compound will last a long time if it is treated with the special composition “Tiprom 90” before filling it with mortar for making tiles.

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

brick paving slabs

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general, similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as sealant. You need to buy as much of it as you need to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, you should open the original packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. Regular grease is most often used as a lubricant.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. Thickness above top part the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which is dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone takes much longer to dry than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the tile mold in advance, for example, by dedicating winter time so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or, at least, at positive temperatures.

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Normalized values	Test results
Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (min) no more.	30	5÷25
Viability (h), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Flow resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by mass (%) no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conventional years, no less.	20	20

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to make matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on a suburban site may not differ at all from those in the neighborhood.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy plastic mold(no special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do it. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, you cannot do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It never goes out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and neatness. It is especially important to use this tile option to design the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold measuring 300x300 mm and 30 mm thick is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​called “California shagreen”. Plastic molds are convenient because they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during laying of the solution, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and to make it easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with a greasy lubricant before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile may change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose this mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step is to mix water, dry dye and plasticizer until smooth in a separate container.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer - this process must be carried out for at least 3-5 minutes.
	After kneading, you should get a fairly thick, viscous, coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density during the process of laying it out in the mold and compacting it.
	Next, the resulting mixture is poured into a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed as evenly as possible over the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed using a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with solution, it must be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Next, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaken, air bubbles will emerge from the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops escaping completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table yourself. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and may change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has passed, the matrix is ​​turned over and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold to make the product come away from it more easily.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must completely dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying a full load to the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production.

Production of original paving slabs “pine cut” in polyurethane form

The original design of platforms and paths is the laying of round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual rotting and damage. various insects. Concrete tiles that imitate a cut of wood will be an excellent replacement for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to do than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called “pine cut” because it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The interior has beige color and the relief of the annual rings, and the outer frame repeats the pattern of roughened pine bark.
	To manufacture such products, a flexible polyurethane mold is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which will later help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with “annual rings”, one such tile will require white cement 100÷150 g, medium sand - 300÷350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20÷25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, colorant and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All ingredients are mixed well until smooth. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax lubricant. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a deceptive impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only over the inner part of the form, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side separating the middle part of the “round timber” from the improvised “bark”.
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. The mixture cannot be diluted, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid one below, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, after the initial distribution the mold is moved back and forth across the table surface and gently shaken.
	Next, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly onto the mold.
	After this, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allocated for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60÷70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement are mixed well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, part or all of the remaining solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in the matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out over the entire surface of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue; one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made.
	Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​carefully turned over.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must completely dry and gain strength; this will require at least 2-3 days. When drying, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If you decide to make a mold for such tiles yourself, then as a basis you need to take natural round timber from any wood you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound during the manufacturing process of the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not be obtained. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small edge will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can carefully fill it yourself with a grout or regular cement composition.

Paving slabs made “on site” using a stencil

Another affordable way arrange garden paths- this is filling them concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device It is quite possible to quickly improve not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This instruction can help you figure out how to properly prepare the space for paths and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

cobweb paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For such work, you will need to prepare the following tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing the solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable to deliver the mixture to the pouring site. After familiarization with the work process, each master can add tools to the list that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	Materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for laying on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it must be taken into account that from one 50 kg bag of cement you can get 6 ÷ 7 slabs measuring 600 × 600 mm and 60 mm thick. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unfenced area the path will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after concrete is poured into it and it gains strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, separated by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are attached, which will help you easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not be overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for filling it. To do this, first of all, remove from the marked area fertile layer soil, approximately 100÷120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the sprouting grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the path is formed.
	Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared area, treated from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its unique reinforcement, coarse crushed stone can be laid in the internal space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be made as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, a dye is added.
	If 5-6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is mixed in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement you need to prepare 250 grams. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine crushed stone, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Add enough water to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the component composition. If manufactured colored tiles, then it is permissible to add color in an amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is spread with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, it will be easy to place the mass in the corners under the stencil bridges. It is better to add more mixture than required than not to add it, since the excess can be easily removed with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled along the upper bridges of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of future tiles to perfect smoothness, since their wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes for the solution to set, the stencil is removed from the tile by grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet hardened completely, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile if you move awkwardly.
	The result should be a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, maintaining a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then the stencil is checked building level for evenness, and if necessary, make sand bedding or a support made of flat stone or ceramic tiles.
	Next, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the slabs and borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of special lawn grass, which rises only 30-50 mm.
	The spaces between the slabs can also be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, which can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs.
	If desired, during the manufacturing process of such a coating it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula.
	If you want to add garden plot colorfulness, then the tiles can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always lift your spirits. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. This way the work will be more efficient, since a solution of the same color can be used to fill areas in several stencils at once.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must definitely ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all the work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work of arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, having only two or three similar matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the areas of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying them correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if you can’t do the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will be at least equal to the cost of the tiles themselves.

The stencil will not allow you to make serious mistakes. Even without any experience in this field, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality, neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased care is shown, and the novice master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs to look like natural wood