The ease of installation of many thermal insulation materials and facade systems makes you want to save money and carry out this work yourself, without the involvement of expensive specialists. The most popular among façade facing materials purchased metal siding made on the basis of metal sheets.

Advantages

The main advantages of metal siding are:

• Long service life. Most manufacturers guarantee the service life of their products for 20-25 years without burnout and up to 50 years before through corrosion;
• Light weight design. Since in production they use thin sheets metal (about 0.5 mm), and protective coatings are applied in a layer calculated in micrometers, then 1 m 2 is only about 4 kg;
• Economical. By using domestic metal, creating an extensive logistics network and distributing production facilities throughout Russia, manufacturing companies can offer metal siding cheaper than foreign manufacturers;
• Environmental Safety. Metal panels, unlike PVC, they are not only non-flammable, but also do not emit harmful substances during operation;
• Ease of installation. Due to the fact that the metal is not so susceptible to temperature deformation and is not afraid low temperatures, the installation process is not complicated by the need to control the tightening force of fasteners, there is no need to leave special temperature gaps, etc.

Basic rules of work

Metal siding is supplied packaged not only in bundles, but each sheet is individually wrapped in a special protective film, which must be removed after installation. This film prevents abrasion of surfaces during transportation.

Cutting metal siding must be done only in compliance with safety precautions. Some companies offer the production of panels to customer size. This will not only make installation work easier, but will also save you from having to purchase additional equipment. Moreover, the linear dimensions of the sheets will be observed much more accurately than with manual cutting. This may complicate the preparatory and calculation stages, but will significantly simplify installation.

Accessories

For framing and decorating windows or doorways, external and internal corners of the building or to join panels together horizontally, special strips and slats are used. They can be selected either in color with the main panels or in contrast, to give the facade a certain charm and taste.

Also, depending on the chosen color and shade, it is necessary to select the color of the fasteners.

All these issues will be helped by sales consultants and measurers who, using tables of average quantities of fasteners, will help calculate the required number of screws, anchors and seals.

Instructions for finishing a house with metal siding

There are two methods of attaching metal siding: hidden and external:

• With hidden facade finishing metal siding fastening elements are located with inside panels and are not visible from the façade. Panels for hidden way fastenings are manufactured to exact geometric dimensions and involve cutting and fitting, therefore this type metal siding is unique and individual. This increases the cost of work and practically reduces the possibility of self-installation metal panels due to the need for highly qualified workers performing installation.
• The external method of attaching siding does not require high qualifications and skills; it is enough to strictly adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations for installing the finishing material.

Sequence and technology of metal siding installation

Before starting all work, the walls of the house are prepared. Siding is fastened using the method frame construction and does not make any special demands on the surface. The main requirements are the absence of fungi, shedding, cracks and destruction. By attaching the frame slats using brackets, you can smooth out uneven walls without additional leveling.

Installation of sheathing

Installation of siding is mainly metallic profile. This is due not only to durability, but also to the lightness of the design. To fasten the frame, special brackets are used, which are mounted to the wall of the building using anchors. The length of the brackets is selected depending on the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. After placing the “beacon” cords, to obtain a flat wall plane, profiles are attached to the brackets using self-tapping screws.

Less commonly, a wooden frame is used for facade systems:

Depending on the linear dimensions designs and distances between the wall and frame select the required frequency of installation of brackets. You can calculate the required frequency of fastening to the wall using the installation recommendations of a specific metal profile manufacturer.

Installation of insulation

The insulation is installed in the spaces between the frame in such a way that a solid heat-insulating surface is created without cracks and passes. If polystyrene foam and its derivatives are used as a heat-insulating material, then the joints of the sheets can be additionally foamed with polyurethane foam.

Mineral wool mats have the property of swelling and over time can themselves close small gaps and joints between the mats. Another feature of cotton materials is hygroscopicity, that is, the absorption and accumulation of moisture during operation.

Moisture significantly reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the material and increases its weight, increasing the possibility of caking or sliding of the material. Therefore, when using cotton wool materials, it is imperative to install a vapor barrier. You should pay attention to the markings of the vapor barrier so as not to install it inside out, which will lead to the opposite consequences. If polystyrene foam or its derivative materials are chosen as a heat insulator, then a vapor barrier membrane may not be installed. This is due to the fact that polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture and acts as a water barrier.

Installation of additional elements and sealing

After attaching the frame, it is necessary to install additional elements:

Video: Exterior window decoration with metal slopes

Installation of metal siding

The gaps between additional elements are filled with siding panels. The first (bottom) row is attached to a special starting block and fixed with self-tapping screws. After fixing the bottom sheet, the next one is fastened. The joints of the panels along the length of the wall are mounted overlapping with trimming of the upper groove for fastening to the sheathing or through the installation of an H-profile (connecting).

The façade of a house is finished with metal siding from the bottom up, but there are also some models of panels that can be attached in the reverse order. Typically, the panels are attached to each other using a special tongue-and-groove locking device.

Since metal siding is practically not subject to deformation by temperature, fastening and tightening must be done without gaps, tightly pressing the sheets of panels to the frame.

Video instructions for installing metal siding with your own hands

Price

The cost of installing metal siding in Moscow and the Moscow region is 550-650 rubles per sq.m., without insulation and 750-850 rubles with insulation. This price for installing metal siding includes the installation of panels, all components, flashings, sheathing, and for insulation, installation of insulation and vapor barrier film. Specified figure implies professional installation with a written guarantee for work, availability of all necessary tools(+ scaffolding), direct responsibility for the material (scratched, bent, etc.). The average cost of 1 m 2 of material is 350 rubles.

Conclusion! In general, metal siding is a durable and practical finishing material that protects the walls of a building from negative impacts external destructive factors and gives the structure a presentable appearance.

IN Lately old houses, as well as new buildings, are faced with decorative facades.

This is done so that the constructed building looks finished and beautiful.

The latest direction is siding.

Today we will talk to you about how to properly clad a house with metal. Let's consider installation, advantages and disadvantages, and also perform some calculations.

Types of siding

Based on the material used, siding is divided into types:

Characteristics of metal siding

Types of metal used

Panels for cladding houses and buildings are made from various types of metals:

• Aluminum.
• Steel.
• Zinc.

Wide practical use got steel metal panels.

They are usually painted with a protective varnish, or polymer composition. Aluminum, zinc and polymer coating panels are significantly more expensive than painted steel panels.

Types of produced sizes

Types of external attractiveness

During production, metal siding can be given any shape in the form of rounded wood, or in the form of brickwork. That is, set any texture, relief, color and shade.

The material also has perforations along the top edge, which simplifies the installation process on the frame, and also hides the screw heads for aesthetic beauty. Plus, this perforation reduces the stress on the plates that occurs during expansion and contraction from thermal fluctuations.

These plates also have special holes designed to drain excess moisture from the casing.

Calculation of materials and components

Before buying material, you should draw up a plan with clear dimensions and calculations of the amount of material.

To do this, we make a detailed drawing on a piece of paper, indicating the height of the building, the width of the walls, dimensions and doors. To calculate the number of elements, you need to find out the usable area.

It is calculated by the formula:

S total = S walls - S openings

If you are planning brick house and do it yourself with your own hands, it’s good to draw up a diagram of the location of the strips of material on the walls. This diagram will also help with installation.

Now we will calculate the auxiliary components:

1. Finish and starting slats. As the name suggests, they are used for fastening the initial panel and for the final completion of the installation of the panels. It is calculated as follows: the length of the perimeter of the house is divided by the length of the slats, and we get the required amount.
2. Internal and external corners. Used to decorate the corners of buildings. For decoration, it is better to use whole guides, since the seams will be visible and the aesthetic appearance will be disrupted. Therefore, the number of angles is equal to the number of profiles.
3. J-profile. Used as a finish vertical plane window, door openings and diagonal gables. The length of all the listed elements in linear meters is added up and divided by the length of the J-profile.
4. H-profile. Used to connect the panels themselves. Usually sold individually. The quantity can be calculated according to your scheme.
5. Window profile. Used in cases where the depth of the door or window openings deeper than 20 mm. A J-profile can be used as an alternative if the width is appropriate. Also sold individually.
6. Platbands. Used for finishing openings. Sold individually.

It should be noted that, like most materials, siding should be purchased with a 10-15% margin in order to protect yourself from additional costs.

And also different batches of the same color may differ in shades and choose color scheme it will be very difficult.

Pros and cons of metal siding

Advantages

Let's look at the main advantages of metal siding:

• Ideal for any climate conditions. Possibility to operate in temperature ranges from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
• When using siding, we create a structure that allows the wall and insulation to freely remove excess moisture, and hence mold and mildew do not appear.
• The service life of the material is over 50 years.
• High levels of strength and practicality. Siding is not exposed to direct sunlight. The material is absolutely not flammable, and thanks to the high-quality coating it does not rust.
• Possibility to carry out work at any time of the year. Convenient finishing of houses with complex geometry.
• Simplicity and speed of installation technology. Possibility to do the work with your own hands.

Flaws

Now let's look at the cons:

• Since metal does not heat, a layer of insulation is required.
• Poor performance. When it's raining, you can hear the raindrops hitting the metal sheathing.
• Mechanical impact may cause dents. Replacing an element is a labor-intensive process, and bending it is almost impossible.

How to cover a house with metal siding

Preparation

Like any installation process, this one also begins with a preparatory process.

1. To do this, remove all decorative elements from the wall surface ( drainpipes, television antennas, etc.).
2. If the house is old, then you will need to clean the walls from dirt and repair all visible defects (chips, cracks).
3. Experts also recommend treating the walls. They are often used for this. But you just need to treat the entire surface together with the base.
4. Next you should apply the markings. This is done so that the vertical guides are perfectly aligned. This will require building level and a pencil. The interval between the racks is chosen equal to the width of the insulation or the length of the siding. But usually this distance is 50-60 cm.
5. Also, for ease of installation, you should mark the installation location of the fasteners and install the beacon. Horizontally, the place for fastening is marked every 50 cm, and vertically every 80 cm.

Lathing

After all preparatory work Let's start installation.

1. To do this, we attach the brackets, they are installed on a substrate made of , fastened with anchors or dowel nails.
2. Next, the guides are attached to the brackets; for this we use rivets or self-tapping screws.
3. Installation vertical racks carried out according to the following scheme: first we install the outer posts in the corners, and then we pull the thread or fishing line and set the remaining guides.
4. We periodically check the level of the plane. It is better to use a metal profile as guides rather than wooden blocks. Since even well-treated wood will eventually begin to rot and rot.
5. In order to speed up the process of assembling the sheathing, you should use. There is one caveat: if the length of the guide is not enough, then you should not join closely, you must maintain a distance of 1 cm, this is the so-called technological gap.

Insulation

The next stage is laying insulation between the profile.

The insulation can be secured using mushroom dowels. Thickness and density vary by region. If you use polystyrene, then all seams and cavities should be foamed with foam.

On top insulation material lay a membrane material that allows condensate to escape from the insulation side. The joints of the material must be taped with construction tape.

Installing additional items

Before attaching the siding itself, you should install the auxiliary elements. So, first we attach the basement drains. We install the starting bar at the bottom and the finishing bar at the top. We install corner profiles in the corners.

At the joints of the panels, we install flashings. Experts recommend applying sealing tapes, which will then be clamped with siding and protect the internal elements from snow and rain. We frame window and door openings.

Now you can begin installing the first row of siding on the façade of the building, starting bar. It is attached using self-tapping screws into the profile holes on top of the panel. The self-tapping screw is placed strictly in the middle of the hole and is not tightened all the way. By doing this we make the panel movable as a result of temperature fluctuations. Next we install the next row and so on until we have assembled the entire cladding system.

After completing the siding installation process, it should be wiped with a dry cloth.

Conclusion

In this article, we examined in detail the advantages, disadvantages and process of installing metal. We have determined that installation is not difficult and can be done with your own hands.

You just need to look at the photo and video materials before work. Any room covered with metal siding looks colorful and modern according to the chosen style.

Moreover, the average cost of material per 1 sq.m will be 400-500 rubles. And you can do the installation work yourself.

During construction, as a rule, some little things are not noticed, you want to complete all the work quickly, and subsequently, when doing interior decoration Every now and then people want to give a decent look to absolutely every element. Stairs are no exception here. Usually, the metal structures of stairs do not look very attractive, and it is inconvenient to climb/descend along them, especially barefoot. In such cases, the decision is made to cover the metal staircase with wood, because to cover the steel PVC tiles or wallpapering it is not possible.

How to cover a metal staircase with wood.

Immediately before work, you should stock up on everything you need. Purchase the material, prepare the tools and only then begin sheathing activities.

When choosing boards for stairs, you should know that they should not be too narrow or too thick. Narrow boards may crack under load, while thick ones will not be able to create beautiful view, and working with them is inconvenient.

As for the tools, for the above work you will need a hacksaw, tape measure, pencil, drill, wood and metal drills, nuts, bolts and a screwdriver with a set of bits.

First, you should take all measurements, and this applies to absolutely all elements of the staircase. After this, you need to use a hacksaw to cut the boards according to your size.

Next, holes should be drilled on the string and in each step at a certain distance. Typically, the thickness of steel is five to six millimeters, and here it would be better to initially drill a hole with a smaller drill, and then expand it with a larger one in diameter. When performing this operation, use a container with cold water, which you have nearby. Heating drills can be cooled in water.

Once the holes are made, move on to the wood pieces. Place marks on each of them in accordance with the holes made in the metal. To do this, you should attach the measured board to the corresponding step and mark it through the hole with a marker. It is worth repeating this procedure with each workpiece. Remember, you should mark the marks only when applying the wooden blank to your step.

After all the workpieces are marked, secure a wood drill in the chuck of your drill required diameter and make holes in the boards.

When this procedure is completed, begin fastening with bolts and nuts wooden blanks to the metal structure of the stairs. Euroscrews can also be used here. It is important to make all connections of elements from the back side of your stairs.

After metal staircase was transformed, and wooden comfortable and reliable steps appeared on it, with reverse side The structure should be sheathed with a sheet of fiberboard. This will allow you to hide minor errors that will likely arise during work and the location of the fasteners, because the bolts and nuts will be visible from the reverse side.

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If you choose a finish for the facade solely for reasons of practicality, you should pay attention to corrugated sheeting. Strong, durable, not too expensive, this material is widely used in private construction. And if earlier it was used more for fences and roofs, now it is actively used for external walls. Sheathing a house with corrugated sheets does not require special skills, and if you know how to handle construction tools, the installation will not be difficult.

To make corrugated sheets, thin sheet steel is used, protected from corrosion by a zinc coating. After rolling in machines flexible metal turns into corrugated profiles with waves of different configurations and sizes, and acquires additional characteristics. To enhance protective properties the sheets are coated with a polymer composition, with front side a decorative layer is applied. Stiffening ribs give the product high strength with low weight, which helps reduce the load on the base. And the greater the height of these ribs, the more resistant the corrugated sheet is to mechanical loads.

The service life of the cladding depends on the type protective coating: simple galvanized corrugated sheets last about 30 years, and polymer-coated corrugated sheets last up to 45 years or more. Material lends itself machining, is easy to drill and cut, thanks to which the installation of sheets is carried out without special effort. If necessary, corrugated sheeting can be dismantled and reused without deteriorating performance characteristics.

Choosing corrugated sheeting for cladding

According to GOST 24045-2010, corrugated sheeting is divided according to purpose into several types - load-bearing, roofing, wall and mixed type.

Bent steel sheet profiles with trapezoidal corrugations for construction. File for download

Each type is marked accordingly. For cladding facades, wall corrugated sheeting (C) is intended, characterized by a trapezoidal corrugated shape. The profile height varies between 8-44 mm, the decorative coating can be either plain or with a pattern.

If you need to sheathe the frame of a garage or some other non-residential building, it is recommended to choose load-bearing (N) corrugated sheeting, or a mixed type, which is designated by the letters NS.

When marking sheets next to letter designation put numbers that indicate the height of the corrugation - C-8, C-10, C-20 and so on. When cladding private houses, the most popular is C-8 corrugated sheeting: it is the most inexpensive, lightweight, but at the same time has good strength.

If the façade is subject to high wind loads, it would be more appropriate to use profiles C-15, C-20 or C-21, which are more rigid and not prone to bending.

No less important when choosing are the decorative qualities of the material. An ordinary galvanized sheet is not suitable for a residential building; such cladding is more appropriate for industrial buildings or domestic buildings. Therefore, preference should be given to colored corrugated sheets with a high-quality polymer coating.

The decorative layer can be matte or glossy, plain, with a texture like stone, wood, brick and other materials. Sheets with a pattern are much more expensive than plain ones, but they look just great. From a distance, the wavy relief of the cladding is not noticeable, and it seems that the house is really made of stone or brick.

Volumetric drawing

Advice. When choosing a material, pay attention to the back side of the sheet. There are options with double-sided decorative coating designed for fences and partitions. Of course, they can also be used for cladding a house, but why overpay for something that won’t be visible anyway?

Prices for corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

Material calculation

To avoid extra costs, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material before purchasing. First, measure the walls and calculate the total area.

Next, take away the area of ​​window and door openings, as well as those areas that will not be sheathed (if any). The area of ​​the gables is added if they are also planned to be sheathed. Now the resulting value remains to be divided by the area of ​​one sheet.

When calculating, you should take into account not the overall, but the usable width of the sheet, since the corrugated sheet is laid overlapping. Standard length sheets is 2 m, although different manufacturers it can vary from 0.5 to 14 meters.

For example, let's take a rectangular house: the height of the walls is 3 m, the length is 4 and 6 m, there are 4 windows measuring 1.5x1.1 m and a doorway 2x1.4 m. By multiplying the height by the length and adding up the area of ​​the walls, we find out the total area future cladding – 60 m2. Using the same formula, we calculate the area of ​​the openings:

1.5 x 1.1 x 4 = 6.6 + 2.8 = 9.4 m2;

60 – 9.4 = 50.6 m2.

That is, the working area of ​​the walls is 50.6 m2.

The area of ​​the gables is calculated differently, depending on their shape. If the pediment has the shape of a trapezoid, you need to sum up both bases, divide in half and multiply by the height. If the pediment is an isosceles triangle, you need to multiply half its height by the base. For example, the height of the pediment is 2 m, the base is 4 m. 0.5 x 2 x 4 = 4 m2.

Since there are two gables, we add another 8 m2 to the total cladding area, and as a result we get 58.6 m2. Standard sizes sheets of corrugated sheet C-8 are 2000x1150 mm, which means its area is 2.3 m2. We divide the sheathing area by the sheet area - 58.6: 2.3 = 25.48. Rounding, we get 26 sheets, but you need to take 2-3 more in reserve, since additional material may be needed when cutting.

Additional elements for corrugated sheets

In addition to the sheets themselves, additional elements will be needed for finishing. Each of them performs specific functions and is an integral part of the house’s cladding.

Item name	Purpose
	Used for framing external corners. Gives the skin a finished look and at the same time protects the joints from precipitation, dust, and small debris. Mounted on top of the corrugated sheet, as a result of which the screw heads remain visible
	It is attached to the inner corners of the building and performs protective and decorative functions. Mounted on top of profiled sheets, fasteners remain visible
External corner difficult	Performs the same functions as a regular corner, but it is attached to the sheathing before installing the sheets. This installation allows you to make hidden fasteners
Inner corner difficult	Installed in the internal corners of the facade before installing corrugated sheets, it performs protective and decorative functions
	Intended for protecting and finishing sheathing joints on the wall plane. Attached to the sheathing before installing the corrugated board
	It is used to frame the ends of the sheathing, protects them from the effects of precipitation, and gives a neat appearance. Attached to the sheathing before installing the sheets
	Used for framing door and window openings. Protects against precipitation and debris, attaches to the sheathing before installing the sheathing
	Performs the same functions as a complex docking strip, but is attached after installation of the sheathing, as a result of which the fastener heads remain visible
Molding	It is used to finish the joint between the facade of the house and the lining of the eaves overhang. Attached to the sheathing before installing corrugated sheets
	Used to protect window sills from rain flows. Installed at the bottom window slopes before installing the casing
Platband	Used to decorate door and window openings, giving them a finished look
	It is used to protect the upper part of the base from rain and snow, thereby extending its service life. Attached to the bottom of the sheathing before installing corrugated sheets

As a rule, these products are produced in lengths of 3.2 and 1.25 m, although each manufacturer may have its own parameters. It is much easier to calculate their number than sheathing sheets, since here everything is measured in linear meters, and not in square meters.

How to do the cladding yourself

Covering walls with corrugated sheets includes three main stages: preparing the surface, installing the frame, installing additional elements and sheets. If you plan to insulate the walls, laying the insulation is done after installing the frame.

The diagram shows wall cladding with corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheeting can be mounted horizontally and vertically; this does not affect the protective functions of the cladding. There must be an air gap between the sheathing and the load-bearing wall, which allows vapors to escape through the walls of the house. When covering wooden facade the frame can be mounted from wooden beams, but for brick and concrete walls A metal profile is more suitable.

Preparatory work

Under metal casing minor defects are not visible, so there is no need to carefully level the walls. But it is imperative to eliminate cracks, through gaps, and fungus, otherwise the destructive effect will continue, and the walls will soon require major repairs.

Gutters, platbands, ebbs, lighting fixtures and other items that interfere with finishing are removed from the façade. Clean dust and dirt, check the integrity of the walls. Used to seal cracks cement mortar. Where the masonry is heavily crumbled, you need to knock out the remaining bricks and lay new ones on fresh mortar. This applies not only to the walls, but also to the basement of the house.

The areas affected by the fungus are cleaned with a scraper and thoroughly treated with products containing chlorine.

If this wooden walls, you need to treat them with an antiseptic primer 2-3 times. After this, the surface should dry completely.

Prices for deep penetration primer

Primer deep penetration

Installation of frame and sheathing

The frame for the sheathing must be perfectly flat, that is, all the guides must be located strictly in the same vertical plane. Fastening “by eye” is not allowed here, because even small deviations lead to deformation of the skin and a decrease in the strength of the structure. It is recommended to mount the guides on brackets, this makes it much more convenient to align them vertically.

Step 1. On the prepared surface, markings are made for adjustable brackets. They start marking from the corner: determine the vertical using a level or plumb line, and put chalk points on this line every 50-60 cm. Then step back 40 cm and repeat the steps.

Step 2. Having completed the markings, drill holes for all fasteners, insert dowels, and screw the brackets. It is recommended to insert paronite gaskets between the bracket and the wall.

Advice. If the walls are brick, the holes for the dowels should not fall on masonry joints. You should also not use a hammer drill for drilling if load-bearing walls lined with hollow bricks.

Step 3. Next, take the first guide profile, apply it to the brackets and attach it with self-tapping screws. Using a level, check the horizontal position of the profile, correct it if necessary, and tighten the screws. The design of the brackets allows for alignment of the sheathing elements within 30 mm. All other frame profiles are installed and screwed one by one. Additional jumpers are attached around the openings so that the sheathing is continuous.

Step 4. Slab insulation is attached between the guides. Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation under corrugated sheeting: it retains heat well, is easy to install, and has vapor permeability. The slabs are fastened from the bottom up, with the obligatory displacement of the vertical seams in each subsequent row. The insulation layer must be continuous, so be careful to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates.

To fix the insulation, disc-shaped dowels are used. Holes in the wall are drilled directly through the material, to a depth of 4-5 cm. There should be at least 5 dowels per slab - one in the center, four in the corners.

Step 5. Water and wind protection is required on top of the thermal insulation layer. Canvases windproof membrane are mounted perpendicular to the guides, that is, they are mounted horizontally on a vertical frame, from bottom to top, and on horizontal frame I mount them vertically. To do this, the upper edge of the canvas is fixed with self-tapping screws to the upper guide, the material is rolled down, slightly stretched, and secured with self-tapping screws to the lower profile.

Adjacent canvases are installed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. At the overlap line, the material is also fixed along the entire height to the guide profiles. Near the openings, the membrane is cut around the perimeter of the frame and also secured to the sheathing. Sometimes waterproofing film is attached using double-sided tape, and to wooden frame fixed with a stapler.

Step 6. The base ebb is screwed along the lower edge of the frame with self-tapping screws. If the frame is vertical, you first need to beat the horizontal level, otherwise the ebb will be uneven. In the case of horizontal lathing, this element is screwed to the lower profile. The drip strips are overlapped by 20-30 mm.

Step 7 The doorway is decorated next. Take a slope strip and cut it to height door frame, applied to the outer edge of the frame and leveled. Screw it with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm through the sighting shelf. I install the bar in the same way on the other side and above the opening.

Step 8 We begin to design the window openings. The window sill is cut to the width of the opening, applied to the bottom of the frame and adjusted to size. Screw the element to the sheathing guides. Next, the side slope strips are cut and fastened, and the top strip is mounted last. At the ends of the planks, two neat cuts are made and the resulting “ears” are folded onto the side profiles.

Step 9 Next install external and internal corners, and connecting strip, if elements are used complex shape. The profile is placed on the outer corner, screwed on top with a self-tapping screw and leveled. The lower edge of the corner profile should overlap the bottom of the sheathing by 5-6 mm. Having aligned the element, screw it to the sheathing along its entire length. The internal corners are secured in the same way. If simple profiles are used, they are attached on top of the sheathing, so that after finishing the openings, you can immediately begin installing the sheets.

Advice. Experts recommend starting installation of the sheathing from the back of the house towards the front of the facade. When laying sheets horizontally, the initial fastening line is the corner of the building or the doorway, when vertical installation start from the base or blind area from bottom to top.

Step 10 The protective film is removed from the finishing material. Take the first sheet, place it against the sheathing from the corner and attach it with a self-tapping screw at the bottom along the edge. Next, level it and, holding it in one position, screw the screws into the deflections of the wave. The fastening step is about 30 cm, or every 2 waves.

Step 11 The next sheet is overlapped by 15 cm, aligned along the bottom cut, and screwed with self-tapping screws.

Along the joint line, fasteners are placed in increments of 50 cm. When sheathing, vertical deviations are allowed no more than 6 mm.

Advice. When tightening the screws, avoid excessive tension on the sheathing sheets. They should fit snugly against each other, especially at the joints, but at the same time have a minimum gap of 0.8-1 mm at the fixation points to compensate for thermal expansion.

Step 12 When finishing openings, the sheets are pre-cut according to measurements. To cut corrugated sheets, use metal scissors, a fine-toothed hacksaw, or a jigsaw.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

After installing the sheathing, the remaining additional elements are installed - platbands, simple corners and joining strips, and the joints between the walls and the cornice are covered with moldings.

Gable trim

The final stage is covering the gables of the house. As on the walls, here the sheets can be placed both horizontally and vertically, depending on the preferences of the homeowner. Before sheathing, the gables should be treated with a waterproofing compound and wait until the surface dries. After this, install a sheathing made of 50x50 mm timber or aluminum profile. The sheathing pitch is 30-40 cm. If the attic is planned to be insulated, the sheathing cells are filled with slabs mineral wool or polystyrene foam, reinforce them with disc-shaped dowels.

Next, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing membrane, and a counter-lattice is mounted on top, which ensures ventilation gap. Along the lower edge of the pediment, the ebb is screwed to the sheathing, and on the sides, at the junction with the roof overhangs, they are mounted end strips. Now all that remains is to correctly cut the sheets and install them on the pediment. For convenience, you can make a simple template from scrap materials and cut corrugated sheets according to it. When installing, the edges of the material are inserted into the end strips, adjusted tightly so that there are no gaps left, and the position is checked with a level. Fixation is carried out as standard with self-tapping screws or rivets in increments of 30 cm.

Some Construction Materials, from which walls are erected, immediately imply the need exterior finishing at home: it turns out to be a very unsightly picture. Others may lose their appeal over time. And the third case is extensive crack formation, which is “treated”, but the results remain visible. In all these cases, the question arises: “How to sheathe the outside of the house.” Moreover, most often it is necessary to “sheathe” - without using mortar or other similar means that require large quantity money and time. I want to do everything quickly and, very preferably, inexpensively, and, if possible, with my own hands. Oddly enough, there is a choice of materials and technologies, and a considerable one.

Basic Rules

When selecting materials for cladding a house from the street, be sure to remember that in order to maintain normal humidity in the rooms, the vapor permeability of the materials must decrease from inside the room to the outside. That is, the exterior finishing should conduct steam better than the wall material. Then high humidity, which is typical for our homes, will be discharged through the walls naturally (explanations in the photo).

If this principle is violated, moisture will accumulate at the interface of materials with different vapor permeability. It condenses, creating conditions for rotting and the development of fungi and mold. In winter it freezes, destroying the wall material and/or finishing. Sooner or later such a system will have to be dismantled and rebuilt.

The trouble is that only wood meets this requirement. Most other materials for exterior finishing of a house have low vapor permeability. The problem is solved in two ways:

Today the second option is becoming increasingly popular. Very effective thermal insulation materials, allowing you to significantly reduce heating costs. But they have very low vapor permeability(expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam). When using them, only the second humidity control scheme is possible. When choosing what to cover your house with, consider these points.

Wood paneling

Wood has been used in construction and decoration for centuries, and it seems that it will be relevant for a long time. All thanks to its excellent appearance and ability to regulate indoor humidity. This is perhaps the only material that will remove excess moisture without problems, regardless of what material the walls are made of.

Wooden cladding can have completely non-standard look: different colors and sizes, different directions. It's simple, but the effect is amazing

The most popular materials for wall cladding are block house and imitation timber. There is also lining for exterior finishing - it is thicker than what is intended for it, but otherwise it is no different.

The block house imitates the surface of a round log - the front part has rounded shape. Imitation timber is very similar to planed timber. Both types of cladding are attached to the sheathing, then sanded and coated with protective impregnations, and optionally varnished or painted.

What does lumber look like? external cladding Houses

If you can’t decide how to cover the outside of a foam block house, consider the option wood cladding. In this case, lathing (metal or wood) is nailed to the walls. If necessary, insulation is placed between the slats - basalt wool(foam or polystyrene foam cannot be used) and then the wood sheathing is nailed on.

This building is sheathed with imitation timber. Under the skin there can be brick, log frame, frame or any of the building blocks

If you need the cheapest option, for most regions of Russia this is an ordinary planed board. Its thickness is from 40 mm, it is stuffed in the same way as a lining or block house onto the sheathing, the lower end of the upper board extends 10-20 mm onto the one located underneath it. It turns out the principle of the cone. So you can veneer it cheaply country house or even residential. When properly processed, such cladding has a very good appearance.

How to cheaply cover the outside of a house? For middle zone Russia - wooden planed board

The disadvantages of such finishing are the same as with any wood: it can be damaged by pests, rot, without proper care it quickly loses its decorative effect, becomes dark and ugly. If you want to cover your house and not think about it for years, this is not your choice. Wooden cladding requires maintenance, and, most often, annually.

Siding

In some regions, boards and other lumber are far from the most available materials. In this case, it’s cheaper. This is the option when, having completed the finishing once, you can forget about it for a long time.

If you are thinking about how to decorate the outside of a timber house, perhaps your option is siding

Since the sheathing is nailed onto the sheathing, the façade is ventilated. If you need to inexpensively decorate wooden walls (from timber, logs, panels), siding is one of the options. It can also be used for buildings made of any other material: foam block, aerated concrete, slag-filled concrete, etc. This cladding is universal.

Vinyl

Siding is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is therefore also called vinyl. It consists of strips of material 205 and 255 mm wide, 1.1 mm and 1.2 mm thick. The longitudinal edges have a lock on one side and perforation for fasteners on the other (self-tapping screws are more often used).

The siding is also attached to the sheathing. It is recommended to use a special metal one, but impregnated wooden blocks are quite suitable. Only standard starting and side stripes will be needed. The only caveat: the screws need to be “undertightened” a little, leaving some play in order to compensate for temperature changes in the materials. With this installation, the siding will not crack due to stress.

The advantages of this material for exterior cladding of a house: low prices, easy installation.

Flaw vinyl siding: it fades quickly in the sun, so it is advisable to use soft colors. Has quite a wide temperature regime operation: from +50°C to -35°C, but even in slight frosts it becomes brittle and easily damaged.

One more point: houses covered with siding and having a broken configuration look good. If the building is rectangular, without architectural frills, it does not have the most attractive appearance (as evidenced by the photo below).

If the building is simply long, without reliefs or protrusions, covering the walls with sading will not embellish it very much

Metal

Metal siding consists of strips of thin aluminum or galvanized steel, onto which a protective and decorative coating is applied. It has the same fastening system as vinyl.

Sheathing a house with metal siding is simple: you can do it yourself even without much construction experience

The coating can be made of polymers. It is distinguished by its reliability, resistance to burnout and other climatic factors. Its disadvantage is the limited choice of colors. The second coating option is powder coating. The color range is much wider, the paint lasts for years without signs of peeling.

If you are looking for something to clad the outside of your home for a durable and bright finish, one of the metal siding options may be right for you. It can be bent, it is very difficult to break, installation is not very difficult: you need good metal scissors, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver or a screwdriver. All installation features are the same as for vinyl, with the only difference being that metal can be installed at sub-zero temperatures.

It is not easy to harmoniously decorate a building covered with metal siding

From the point of view of durability, this is a good option, but from the point of view of aesthetics, it is difficult to work with: it looks too “manufactured”. The building no longer resembles a residential building, but rather a warehouse or some kind of workshop.

Tsokolny

This is one of the varieties of vinyl siding, but it has a completely different configuration, appearance and greater panel thickness. It was developed specifically for decorating and protecting the plinths of buildings, but I liked it so much that it began to be used for cladding facades. Exterior design- under brickwork different types and colors, with or without patterns, wild stone. Sometimes the imitation is so successful that you understand that what is in front of you is not brick cladding, and vinyl, you can only touch the wall.

It is mounted, like other types, on the sheathing, there are perforations and locks. The difference is that the basement siding panel does not look like a long rectangle, but a certain section of the wall with curly edges. These curly edges are used to join. Accordingly, the sheathing must be adjusted to the size of the fragment. When installing, first the edge of the panel is inserted into the already installed lock, a match is achieved, and then secured. The main thing is that during installation, do not overtighten the screws, leaving the siding room to move with temperature changes.

The sheathing can be made of treated wooden blocks (with protective impregnation) or from plasterboard profiles (galvanized). How to mount basement siding Look at the base in the video. It is mounted on the wall in the same way. The difference is in area.

Fiber cement boards and siding

Relatively recently appeared on our market new cladding: fiber cement boards and siding made of the same material. They consist of wood fiber, quartz, mica, cement, and may contain chlorine and asbestos (some materials used only for exterior finishing). This mixture is formed into sheets, then dehydrated in several stages, and fired using some technologies. Then a protective and decorative coating is applied to the surface:

The coating can be smooth - glossy or matte, or can imitate brickwork, wood and other finishing materials. It is installed on guide mounting strips and secured to the wall with clamps. This material may suit you if you don’t know what to cover frame house outside: it creates a continuous surface, the panel joints are sealed and precipitation will not get inside.

This house is also lined with fiber cement slabs

Watch the video to see how to attach fiber cement boards.

Fiber cement siding is produced using the same technology, only it is molded into long strips. They are basically standard: 3600*190*12 mm. This material is cut with a jigsaw, installed on a wooden sheathing with an overlap (like a cone) and nailed to it or screwed with self-tapping screws.

Thermal panels

Thermal panels are a material that performs two functions at once - cladding and external insulation of houses. A layer of decorative coating is applied to the thermal insulation layer at the factory. It looks like marble or natural stone, does not burn, and has low water absorption characteristics.

Do this finishing material based on foam plastic, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. Depending on the type of insulation, the installation method is selected: polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are glued to the appropriate composition. The joints are closed with a special aluminum strip or rubbed with paste.

Based on mineral wool, they are mounted only on a special system of profiles; the joints are also sealed.

A very attractive idea is to immediately insulate the house and cladding it. Excellent appearance, and the characteristics of this cladding are impressive. It’s just a pity that there is little operating experience and no reviews yet: it appeared only recently.

There are also clinker thermal panels. Glued to the insulation clinker tiles. The material is not cheap, but the characteristics are impressive, as is the variety of finishes.

Another option for thermal panels is with clinker tiles

The choice of materials that can be used to cover a house at any time - winter or summer - is considerable. There are expensive options, and there are cheaper ones. In any case, in addition to cost, be sure to consider vapor permeability. Then you won’t have to deal with mold and dampness.