What to do if you don’t have enough energy or time to build a full-fledged bathhouse? In this case, the principles of modular construction can be applied. They formed the basis of the technology for constructing a barrel bath. You can make such a design yourself, and with proper skill and the availability of tools, even without a partner.

As the name suggests, the body of the bathhouse is a cylindrical structure made of boards with a groove joint. To strengthen it, tightening metal plates (analogous to clamps) are installed on the surface. At first glance, the design will be ideally suited to the functions of the bathhouse. The inexpensive cost of construction, the possibility of purchasing ready-made modular elements and the high speed of construction speak for themselves.

However, upon closer analysis, the following shortcomings become visible:

• Low thermal insulation of walls. IN winter period Heat losses can nullify all attempts to increase the temperature in the room to the desired level.
• Small area. Most factory models and standard drawings include a small dressing room and steam room in the design. Together their area can be up to 12 m², i.e. in fact, bath procedures can be performed by up to 3 people at the same time.
• Water supply and sewerage connection. Performing these procedures is difficult, since in winter there is a high probability of pipes freezing and the formation of ice jam in them.

If we remember that the premises are planned as a budget option baths, you can ignore all these disadvantages. The most important advantage of the design is the ability to transport it, which cannot be done with.

Design and selection of materials

First you need to develop at least a basic project documentation- drawing of the building and list of materials for its manufacture.

Now you can find many standard drawings of a barrel bath. Despite the apparent diversity, they all include the following basic elements:

Base

It is made of boards, the thickness of which should be at least 5-6 mm. At the first stage, a recess is made on each of them into which the boards will be installed. To strengthen the structure, the edges are covered with fixing formwork.

Assembly elements – edged boards with groove connection

It's best to choose quality material– larch or cedar. Their length must correspond overall size finished design. Mounting recesses are made on the surface for installing partitions. It is not recommended to divide the components by length, as this will lead to loss thermal insulation properties designs.

Partitions

On wooden base the boards are stuffed and then cut so that the end result is a round structure. Its diameter should be less than the outer bath by the thickness of the wall boards. If an internal partition and an external entrance are being made, space should be left for the doorway.

Additional items

These include grated flooring and flooring. They are also made from wood.

Next, the installation site for the structure is equipped. To do this, select any place on plot of land, but it is recommended to install the bathhouse on a hill. A small hole is dug with a depth of up to 0.5 m and dimensions exceeding the size of the bathhouse by 40-50 cm. Sand and gravel, which is carefully compacted. After final alignment, you can begin assembly.

The bottom row of boards is nailed onto the installed frame. It is necessary to monitor the location of the mounting recesses - they must form one common groove. After this, the partitions are installed and secured. Their plane must be strictly perpendicular to the level of the sand flooring.

After this, the remaining wall boards are nailed. A correction rail is installed between the first and last. It should be wedge shaped. With its help, it will be possible to adjust the gap in case of swelling or thermal expansion of the boards. Next, the entire structure is tightened with metal tape. To remove water, holes are drilled on the floor surface. This is done in at least 3 places. At this point, the construction of the barrel sauna body is completed.

On final stage flooring, flooring and doors are installed. Special attention Pay attention to safety precautions when installing the boiler. This area needs to be covered fire-resistant material. For convenience, holes are made in the wall of the bathhouse for supplying water and electricity. The resulting structure, if necessary, can be transported in any convenient way - on a trailer or in a truck.

The barrel sauna is a truly unique invention of its kind, which organically combines the healing properties of an ordinary sauna, useful qualities natural wood, mobility and maximum convenience of a collapsible design.

If assembled correctly, the barrel-shaped sauna turns out to be very reliable and as durable as possible. This design can be attached to a car without any problems and taken to any desired location.

The sauna has a small volume and warms up in the shortest possible time. Despite its modest size, such a steam room can be equipped with all the necessary equipment for a full and maximum comfortable rest. At the same time, you can handle the assembly of the barrel on your own.

Mobility

The sauna can be transported or even rolled (moved) manually, with the help of several friends. The weight of a barrel bath is on average 1.5 tons, so transporting the structure over short distances can be handled manually, and almost any machine can pull such a weight.

For comparison, just one brick stove for an ordinary bath can weigh much more than 1500 kg.

High warm-up speed

In warm weather, such a bathhouse will be very hot within half an hour.

Compactness

The average area occupied by a barrel-shaped bathhouse does not exceed 10 m2, so this design is ideal for placement in small areas.

Original design

The bathhouse has an attractive and very pleasant appearance. Psychologists around the world claim that contemplation rounded shapes helps a person relax, and this is very useful when visiting a bathhouse.

Economy

You will spend much less money on assembling a barrel-shaped bathhouse compared to building a capital steam room of the same area.

Also among the advantages of the design under consideration is the absence of the need to arrange a foundation. For permanent installation It will be enough to prepare a pair of strong beams, rigidly and securely connected to each other, and install the barrel on them.

Extreme ease of maintenance and operation

Fewer corners - less dirt in hard to reach places, smaller area– less hassle with cleaning.

Ergonomics

Even with a modest area inside such a bathhouse you can equip a shower, dressing room and everything necessary equipment. On average, a barrel sauna can accommodate 4-8 people.

Thanks to high-quality thermal insulation and multi-layered barrels, the effect of a thermos is created inside such a bath, which can significantly reduce fuel and electricity costs.

Averaged data from numerous calculations indicate that, thanks to its round shape alone, 20-30% less money will be spent on operating a barrel sauna than on maintaining an ordinary steam room.

What materials should be used to make a barrel bath?

There will be no problems or difficulties with the assembly and further operation of the barrel if you initially pay due attention to the selection of suitable materials.

To assemble the bathhouse, use only high-quality wood that has been dried and correctly sawn into pieces of suitable size. Choose the type of wood according to your preferences and financial capabilities. It is recommended to give preference to oak, linden, pine, spruce, and cedar.

The optimal width of the boards is 9 cm, thickness is 4-5 cm. It is advisable that the wooden boards initially have a tongue-and-groove joint - this will allow you to assemble the structure with at the lowest cost time and effort.

But even if such tenons and grooves are not available initially, make exactly the mentioned connection yourself. It allows you to obtain durable, reliable, stable and strong prefabricated systems that, if necessary, can be disassembled and reassembled many times without compromising the performance properties of the structure.

Additionally, you need to purchase or make several strong steel hoops. These products will provide additional fixation of the barrel around the entire perimeter.

All the required accessories can be purchased without any problems in specialized stores that sell various products for baths and saunas.

The required number of metal hoops and wooden planks calculate individually according to the size of your future steam room. Typically, the length of such a barrel varies from 250 to 500 cm. Additionally, such a structure can be equipped with various extensions.

A barrel-shaped bathhouse, if it is planned to be used throughout the year, needs high-quality thermal insulation. Traditionally, mineral wool materials are used for insulation.

The top of such a steam room can be designed at your discretion. Here, focus on personal preferences. The main thing is that the roof reliably protects the bathhouse from adverse weather conditions and ensures effective and timely removal of moisture.

Guide to assembling a barrel sauna

Ready-made kits for barrel assembly are available for sale. Prefabricated elements come in a variety of sizes, so you can choose and buy without any problems suitable material. This will save effort and time.

You can also make all the necessary design elements yourself. The barrel is assembled in the following sequence.

First step. Make the base of the steam room. Saw a board measuring 5x20 cm into pieces according to the diameter of the barrel. Place supports in increments of up to 150 cm. Determine the specific number of supports individually in accordance with the length of the structure.

To connect, cut grooves in the upper ends of the boards. The shape of such grooves should follow the circumference of the barrel. Determine the dimensions of the grooves so that the remaining uncut part of the board has a width of 100 mm or more.

Second step. Collect required amount internal partitions, as well as the end walls of the future bathhouse. Use a tongue and groove board for assembly. Connect wooden boards using cross bars. Fix the cross bars themselves in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of windows and doors in the future.

In ready-made kits, the necessary end elements are sold assembled, which is very convenient.

Third step. Cut the tongue and groove board to fit the length of the barrel. Sand the ends of the elements, and then treat the boards with antiseptic impregnation.

Fourth step. Install the supports at the same spacing. Lay the bottom of a barrel bath on them from several wooden boards connected using the tongue-and-groove method. Once a sector of the circle is formed, the size of which would be sufficient for the installation of the end walls, place these walls in the appropriate places and continue laying out the boards until the circle is completed.

Fifth step. Secure the assembled barrel using metal hoops.

Sixth step. Install windows and doors.

Seventh step. Arrange the roof. Reliable option- roof on rafters. To create rafters, use a beam with a cross-section of 5 cm. Such a roof can be covered with corrugated sheets, metal tiles or other similar material. Finish coating attach to pre-assembled board sheathing.

If the bathhouse will be visited only in warm weather, you can refuse insulation. The design of the steam room is such that it can warm up sufficiently in about half an hour and retain heat for 2-3 hours, and this time is enough for most visitors to the steam room.

Finally, all that remains is to process external surfaces walls with a fire retardant, and internal ones with an antiseptic, then you can move on to interior design steam rooms.

Interior arrangement of a mobile bathhouse

Inside, such a bathhouse can be equipped like any other steam room. It even has enough space for a small dressing room and a compact shower stall.

When choosing a stove, focus on modern electric models. Such units do not take up much space and do not require a chimney. For a barrel sauna, an electric heater with a power of 6 kW will be more than enough. However, such ovens are capable of producing exclusively dry steam.

If you are not satisfied with this, please give preference small metal wood stove . Select the specific model and dimensions of the structure based on the volume of the steam room. Don't forget about the measures fire safety: wooden structures be sure to be protected from all heating elements using non-combustible sheet materials, and the passage of the smoke exhaust pipe is insulated with fire-resistant insulation.

When arranging the floor, be sure to slope in the direction of the drain. For 1 m of surface length there should be a slope of approximately 1 degree.

For interior decoration of floors, walls and benches It is best to use larch. Such wood will not burn the skin. Place benches along the wall opposite to the stove. You can also install benches at the side walls.

Lay electrical wires in fire-resistant insulation. Sockets, switches, lamps - all this must have an appropriate protection class.

It is very easy to take care of such a bath– it is enough to regularly ventilate the steam room and at least annually treat the walls with high-quality protective agents.

Thus, in just a couple of days you can independently assemble a barrel sauna, which will delight you and your guests with its light steam for many years. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Why not build a sauna on your site? Everything would be fine, but many are stopped by the fact that the construction process itself takes a lot of time, a lot of money is spent on the design of the bathhouse and construction, and the same amount is spent on interior decoration and equipment. And the area is not rubber, a more or less decent bathhouse is already 10-15 square meters at a minimum. So, should we live without a bath for the rest of our lives?

If there is no life without a bath

Nothing like that. If you really can’t live without a bathhouse, and space or money are tight, then you can consider a rather original, inexpensive, compact and interesting option- do-it-yourself barrel sauna We will attach drawings and photos to the text, and we will try to tell the rest in words. First of all, what is this, a barrel sauna? Frankly speaking, no one can really say where such structures came from, but there are still some assumptions.

The fact is that in Japan they traditional sauna, sento, not quite similar to ours. They do not take a steam bath in our understanding, but accept hot bath, and with a strictly controlled temperature of 55 degrees. Sento is a collective bathhouse and it looks like a huge deep basin or barrel. The audience, having previously washed themselves, climbs into such a barrel-font for a bath and steams, while simultaneously talking about abstract Japanese topics.

Japanese and Finnish barrel sauna. What is the difference?

But all Japanese have time to visit public bath. Those who cannot live without good steaming install a miniature analogue of sento, called furo, right at home. And this is a real barrel with a lid into which they stick their head, having first filled the barrel with water at a temperature of 55 degrees.

Probably, the Finns took a look at this design and decided that it would be nice to save time and money to build the same barrel, only install it horizontally and increase it in size five times. Then the bathhouse will turn into a real bathhouse, with a steam room, a vestibule and a relaxation area, and a Finnish barrel sauna looks something like this.

A person who is absolutely far from wooden architecture can build such a structure with his own hands, and even in finished form a barrel bath costs three to four hundred thousand. Don’t have three hundred thousand to have your own mobile sauna with a steam room? It’s not scary, then you can assemble it with your own hands, quickly and without much time or special tools.

Since the barrel sauna is entirely assembled from good wood, then that's it healing properties traditional baths are fully preserved. From a technology point of view, this is robust design, which does not take up much space, it can be transported to any place on globe on a regular trailer for passenger car or, as a last resort, in the back of a one and a half ton truck. We hope there is no need to explain what prospects open up for the owner of such a miracle.

Materials for a barrel sauna

The interior of the barrel bath is Spartan luxury. That is, it has everything you need to take bath procedures and even a little more:

In addition, the interior of such a bathhouse can absorb any design fantasies, since the approach to the design and design of the building itself is unconventional. But only if the materials used for interior decoration are the same wood: cedar, linden, birch, pine or spruce. The advantages of a barrel sauna also include the absence of corners as such and very uniform heating, which is facilitated by the round or oval cross-section of a cedar sauna barrel or a barrel sauna made of another tree.

Shapes and designs

The design of such a bathhouse is thought out to the smallest detail, this is clearly visible in the drawings. There is no need to build an expensive foundation, since the bathhouse feels great on a flat, compacted area, or, in extreme cases, on a monolithic concrete slab ceiling, which is not a problem to get. Beams-runners are installed on the base, on which the main structure of the barrel bath rests. These beams are needed not only to securely fix the structure, but also to ensure that the surface of the bathhouse does not have contact with the soil.

You cannot build a barrel sauna from poor and low-quality materials. But you will need the bare minimum of good timber. The boards must have either a special radial profile or a profile designed for a tongue-and-groove connection. As a rule, they use a board 4.5 cm thick and 9 cm wide. To install the barrel, you will need steel hoops that tighten and firmly fix the entire structure.

Actually, these are all the tricks you need to know about the barrel bath, and good wood and a properly made stove will take care of the optimal microclimate in your new bathhouse. Happy experimenting!

To build a bathhouse, you can choose the traditional option - cut down a small one or build a steam room according to frame technology. A sauna - a barrel made with your own hands from specially prepared boards - looks much more attractive and original. Since the method of assembling a house-side structure is of interest to many homeowners, we suggest considering the manufacturing procedure in this article.

Selection of design and dimensions

The building is similar to a barrel not only externally, but also structurally. The structure consists of the following elements:

• end walls round shape, knocked together from tightly fitted boards, are analogues of the bottom and lid of a barrel;
• side walls assembled from longitudinally laid thick boards with special recesses (following the example of a log house);
• external ties made of steel strip or cable, resembling barrel iron hoops;
• stands for horizontal installation assembled body on the ground;
• elements of interior design - stove, shelves, partitions with doors (if necessary).

Steam room, washing room and dressing room in the form of a classic round barrel

Reference. There are more complex designs, made in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners or an oval, shown in the photo below.

The first step is to decide on the project and layout bath rooms– the future dimensions and foundation of the structure depend on this. Please note important point: the side walls are made of solid boards made specifically for the bathhouse, so the length of the structure directly depends on the length of the lumber.

Construction and interior layout barrels are developed depending on the selected type of bath and other wishes of the homeowner as follows:

A beginner who decides to build a barrel-shaped bathhouse on his own is not recommended to start with large structures equipped with several internal partitions. Make a one-room sauna 2 m long - if desired, it can be loaded onto a car trailer and taken to a recreation area near a pond.

Harvesting lumber

The beams and boards for a bathhouse made in the form of a barrel must be sawn from hardwood– aspen, linden and so on. Of the coniferous species, the use of cedar and larch, which are resistant to temperature changes and moisture, is allowed. Pine and spruce, when heated strongly, release resin, whose drops can burn people in the steam room.

Advice. If the choice of wood is limited only coniferous species, for the cladding of the upper part of the body, select boards without knots, which are sources of resinous discharge.

To make a barrel-type sauna, purchase the following timber:

• timber with a minimum cross-section of 10 x 10 cm for stands;
• a board 45-50 mm thick and 10 cm wide is used for assembling end and side walls;
• wooden door 0.7 x 1.8 m with a frame (you can buy a ready-made one or make it yourself from timber 50 x 50 mm and boards 2.5 cm thick);
• lumber for the manufacture of shelves and lattice trays.

The number of boards on the end walls of the barrel is calculated as follows: the area of ​​the circle is determined, the resulting value is divided by the width of the product and multiplied by a safety factor of 1.2. Do not forget to add bars - power jumpers that connect the boards to each other during the panel assembly process.

Side paneling timber is calculated by the circumference divided by the width of the board. Apply a safety factor since the wood must be mortise-and-tongued on a woodworking machine.

Note. On sale it is not difficult to find ready-made kits for assembling bathhouses - barrels of various sizes and layouts. But often the quality of these products does not correspond to their cost.

What else will be needed in the process of building a round bath:

• metal ties – steel cables or stripes;
• fasteners – galvanized screws and nails;
• compositions for external and internal processing wood – antiseptics, varnishes;
• materials for the manufacture of the roof - shingles, plywood, beams and roof covering(common options are bitumen shingles or corrugated sheet);
• sauna stove of appropriate power, calculated according to the volume of the steam room;
• chimney pipes - sandwich;
• special lamps and switches for baths, non-flammable cables.

If you plan to use the barrel year-round, it is worth making external insulation. Suitable thermal insulation material– mineral wool, polymers are not recommended.

Wood processing

Since the walls of the bathhouse are joined in a special way - like log cabins, all boards need machining using cutters on a machine, cutting out semicircular grooves by hand is unrealistic. The developer needs to contact a woodworking workshop and provide sketches with the parameters of the workpieces. Exact dimensions ridges, grooves and profile of the cutter are indicated in the drawing.

To facilitate further construction works Process the trimmed workpieces in advance according to the instructions:

Advice. Cover the surfaces of the workpieces going outside and inside the barrel with different protective compounds. Apply from inside special remedy for baths and steam rooms.

After painting, stack the boards to dry, laying thin strips between the tiers. How to lead correctly preparatory work, look at the video:

Manufacturing of end walls

As mentioned above, a barrel-sauna is made with your own hands from two (minimum) round edge elements connected by profiled cladding boards. Therefore, construction begins with the assembly of the ends of the barrel using panel technology.

Place 2 support beams on a flat area and begin assembling the rear blank wall in the following sequence:

Advice. It is not necessary to tie the blanks into a shield with two long jumpers. Place 4 crossbars shorter and closer to the edge - the product will look more aesthetically pleasing.

When assembling, the groove of each subsequent beam is put on the ridge of the previous one, as builders of log houses do. This method connection prevents precipitation from entering the joint. Fit the boards tightly; if necessary, use clamps and wedging.

The front wall is made in a similar way, only the base serves door frame. Twist it with self-tapping screws from the beams, having previously secured it to the stands with clamps and aligned the diagonals with a tape measure. To trace the circle, nail a temporary board to the box with the center on it.

After sawing off the excess, sand the ends of both pieces and install the door. It would not hurt to additionally secure the outer boards of the wall with long furniture screws screwed into the adjacent board bars. How to make the round walls of a barrel-sauna, watch the video:

Instructions for assembling the bath

The structure needs to be assembled locally - it is quite cumbersome to move. But first you need to make stands - legs located under the outer walls and partitions. For making, use as much as possible the scraps of materials left over after assembling the front and back walls. One of the design options is shown in the photo.

Installation of the sauna barrel is carried out in the following order:

Important point. A version of a traditional Russian bathhouse with a washing area is installed at a slight slope to the side back wall. A hole is drilled at the lowest point of the floor to drain water.

The finished barrel body should be protected from precipitation so that top part the smaller baths got wet. It is recommended to use the budget method here:

1. Nail flexible wooden strips across the body at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m.
2. Pin sheets of thin plywood to the top of the planks.
3. Cover the improvised base of the roof with bitumen shingles.

If insulation is needed, the shingles are nailed to the body in several layers - the gap between the plywood and outer surface barrels will increase. You can put it there mineral wool, covered with a diffusion membrane. The procedure for assembling the bathhouse is shown in detail in the next video:

Construction work

Upon completion of installation, proceed to the internal arrangement of the barrel. The following work remains to be done in the bathhouse:

1. Do it in the back vent, closed with a lid.
2. Place the oven using a metal stand. Protect the section of the wall behind the stove with fireproof materials - roofing steel or mineralite slabs.
3. Make a chimney from a sandwich pipe by making a hole in the ceiling. Read how to install chimney pipes correctly.
4. Make shelves and a floor drain (lattice tray), attach the elements to the walls.
5. Lay out the electrical wiring, install a bath lamp and a switch.

Under the barrel - Russian bathhouse, it is advisable to dig a pit in advance to drain water through a hole in the floor. There is another way of drainage - connect a flexible pipe to the drain, laid to a storm drain gutter or other place.

Conclusion

If you decide to self-production baths are barrels, please be patient and have plenty of free time. The author of the videos presented here spent about 1 month building it from scratch. Add time costs to resolve unforeseen delays and problems associated with lack of experience. There is a way to reduce construction time - order a ready-made kit to the craftsmen, and only do the installation yourself.

Related posts:

Is it difficult to get to the site and there is no way to order a ready-made barrel sauna? No problem! You can order the sauna disassembled, i.e. assembly kit. It includes absolutely everything except the electrical wiring. Those. and the stove, and the water tank, and all the window shelves and ladders - all this will be there. All you have to do is follow the instructions on how to assemble the constructor ready-made sauna. Ready?

In this article we will look at you in detail step by step instructions for assembling a barrel bath. There is nothing complicated about it. To assemble such a wonderful bathhouse, you will need 2 assistants, a little patience and a certain tool. And if any questions arise along the way, our master will always answer them and provide advice over the phone.

Tool for assembling a barrel sauna

• Kuyanka
• Hammer
• Small sledgehammer
• Screwdriver
• Jigsaw
• Brush
• Open-end wrench M 14
• Sander

Assembling a barrel bath step by step

Step 1

We assemble the carriage of the barrel bath.
Install the base legs on flat surface at a distance of sawn locks in profiled boards. If there is a veranda, an additional base leg is installed at a distance of 100 mm from the edge of the entrance to the barrel sauna.

Step 2

We attach the central board “Bottom” in the center (according to the marks on the legs) to all
bases with self-tapping screws 5*70 mm (2 self-tapping screws in each base).
First, we drill holes for the screws using a 5 mm drill.

Important!
The central board “Bottom” must be strictly oriented, since it already contains drainage and ventilation holes D 50 mm

Step 3

Assembling the bottom of the bath:
From the left and right side From the central “Bottom” board, on each side we lay 6 short (if there is a veranda - long) boards, tapping the boards with a rubber mallet so that there are no gaps.

We attach all 12 boards to the bases with 5*70 mm screws and one 6*120 mm screw to the adjacent board in each compartment (in the steam room, washing department and locker room).

When screwing in 6*120 mm self-tapping screws, it is necessary to control the entry angle so that the screws do not come out through on the next beam.

If there is a veranda we attach the base leg under the veranda through two boards(at two points to the left and right of the central board so that the next board covers the fastening screw).

Step 4

We paint the grooves for the bottoms with a colorless antiseptic base.
The coating must be applied at a temperature not lower than +5 C

Step 5

We install the carriage strictly horizontally in level (to avoid skewing
doors after installation of the bathhouse)

Step 6

We install the transverse walls of the bath (installation will require 2-3 people):

1. We install a blank wall at the bottom of the bathhouse with bars inside the steam room.
2. We install walls with doors at the bottom of the bathhouse so that the doors open outward.
3. We temporarily fix (for stability) the entire structure with two boards on the left and right and two boards on top.
   If some of the remaining boards are marked (the letter “k”), these boards should be used for the fixing boards.
4. We check the correct installation of the walls (vertical and horizontal).
5. We secure each wall from below with two 5*70 mm self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees to the base to prevent it from shifting when installing the boards.

Step 7

We install two short boards on each side of the bottom of the bathhouse, tapping the boards with a rubber mallet so that there are no gaps.
We fasten one board on each side with 5*70 mm screws to the transverse walls

Step 8

Installing the rest left and right boards in a circle to the middle of the bathhouse And
We fasten it to the walls with 5*70 mm screws on each side, after which we bring it in and
We place (without installation) shelves in all compartments.

Step 9

We control the straightness of the installed boards.
The boards must be installed straight without any bulges or concavities..

Step 10

We install all the other left and right boards in a circle to the very top
baths, hitting the boards with a rubber mallet so that there are no cracks.
We fasten it with 5*70 mm self-tapping screws to the transverse walls of the barrel bath.

Step 11

When installing the last boards, we simultaneously install the “Top” board (consists of two parts).
Due to the different densities of the profiled boards’ contact with each other in a circle during installation, the width of the “Top” board (consists of two parts) may be excessive.

Steps to take when installing the top board

1. We determine the size of the gap under the “Top” board, for which we lay out the last
   boards without attaching them with screws.
2. If necessary, open one of the two “Top” boards using a circular
   saw lengthwise to obtain a board of the required size.
3. We assemble all the boards into a “mound” on the roof.
4. Using a mallet, we evenly compare the “mound” along the entire length of the roof. The boards are tightly engaged.
5. We attach all the boards with 5*70 mm screws to the bottoms.
6. We align the top two boards and fasten them with stainless steel plates for
   eliminating shift (especially in areas of the canopy and veranda)

Step 12

Grinding the ends of the bath

Step 13

We process the outer surfaces (bottoms + sides)

We process the surface in two stages:

1. colorless antiseptic base,
2. antiseptic of the required color.

The coating is carried out in one layer with an interval of 12 - 24 hours. Drying 24 hours. Under the roof we cover only with a colorless antiseptic base. The coating must be applied at a temperature not lower than +5 C

Step 14

We install steel ties (hoops).

note to:

a) the hoop did not fall under the installed chimney of the stove on the roof. The distance from the left and right edges of the bathhouse to the hoops should be 150 mm. We install the remaining hoops at the junction of the profile and the bottoms, thereby covering the junction of the bottoms with the profile. If the compartment is more than 1700 mm long, install an additional hoop in the middle of the compartment.

b) the hoop did not cover the drain holes under the bathhouse.

c) the locks of the hoops must be at the bottom different sides(each alternates) at a height of 700 mm from the floor.

The direction of rotation of the pin of all locks is the same for tightening (clockwise) and loosening (counterclockwise) the hoops. To rotate the stud, use a 14mm wrench.

Step 15

We install shelves in the steam room (2 pieces) and the locker room (2 pieces). We install the shelves level on bars installed on the transverse wall. We fasten it to the block with 5*70 mm self-tapping screws

Step 16

In the middle of each shelf more than 1000 mm long, under the middle beam, we attach a beam for additional support to prevent the shelf from deflecting under load. We fasten the support to the floor and shelf with 5*70 mm self-tapping screws

Step 17

We attach a fireproof flam plate to the base of the rear transverse wall on bars for thermal protection (600*1200 mm + 600*600 mm), the distance between the bars should be 300 mm.
In this case, the distance from the edges of the slab to the shelves should be the same

Step 18

We install the base for the stove from a flame plate and stainless steel.
The base for the stove is placed flat on the floor so that the edge of the base and the cut of the slab behind the stove coincide. We fasten the base to the floor of the bathhouse with self-tapping screws

Step 19

Use a jigsaw to cut out a hole for the chimney above the stove. To do this, you need to install a stove in the steam room, install a chimney and draw a slot around it with a pencil. The diameter of the hole depends on the chimney model, in standard version this is 205 mm. Please note that the center of the circle for the chimney cut may not coincide with the junction of the boards.

Mark the center with a pencil. We measure the distance from the bathhouse partition to the center of the hole for the chimney and mark it with a pencil. Mark a circle with a radius of 100 mm from the resulting center with a pencil.

Step 20

Roof installation:

That's all. Now you can assemble the barrel sauna. All that remains is to install a wood-burning stove inside, lay out stones, pour water into the tank and flood it. A cedar sauna heats up quickly - in summer it will warm up in 30-40 minutes, and in winter in 1-1.5 hours. While the stove is burning, the water in the tank is heated from the chimney. Take a herbal mixture, steam a broom - and enjoy your steam!

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