Installing PVC windows yourself is a simple process that does not require any special skills or technological skills. Immediately after the new windows are delivered to your home, you can begin installation yourself, spending a little time. But it is necessary not only to carry out installation - you also need to prepare working space, stock up on tools and avoid possible errors which lead to negative consequences.

So, you already have ready-made PVC windows at home that you can install. First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old window frames and prepare the workspace for the subsequent installation of new double-glazed windows.

Dismantling is very easy and requires only a few tools. These are a crowbar, a screwdriver, a hammer and a chisel. Dismantling is carried out as follows:

The first stage - we dismantle the old windows

1. First of all windows are removed. To do this, you need to use a hammer and a chisel (or screwdriver). First, the movable windows with frames are removed. To do this, use a screwdriver to carefully pry bottom loop, on which the window is attached, after which it is pryed off top loop. Afterwards, several intense but careful blows are applied from below the frame - this way it should come out of the hinges. If the movable window was not fixed tightly enough, then a small force is enough to remove it from its hinges.
2. After dismantling the movable windows, it is necessary remove the window sill. To do this, take a chisel and a hammer, with the help of which the plaster is beaten into the grooves of the window sill. We put the tools aside and take the crowbar. With its help, the window sill is lifted from below (in the area between the window sill itself and concrete slab) and becomes loose - for easy dismantling it is necessary that the window sill slab “walks” freely. If there is any filler or fixings under the sill (older structures typically have wood blocks for support), they are removed. After this, the window sill is carefully lifted from the side of the frame with a crowbar and pulled forward with several sharp movements. As a rule, old window sills are loosely fixed, so removing them will not be a problem.
3. The entire window frame is dismantled. Along the perimeter of the window, the plaster is beaten off with a hammer - it thin layer hides the spacers on which the frame rests. Initially, the wooden spacers from the side are removed. After this, a part of the window frame is pulled out using a crowbar.

As a rule, many builders neglect all the rules of dismantling - wooden window sill it is simply cut into pieces with a grinder, and the concrete is broken using a hammer drill. The frames are also cut into pieces, after which they are removed from the opening in separate pieces.

Preparing the window opening and windows

After dismantling the old window frames there will be a lot construction waste. On the surface of the opening there may be remnants of old insulation, plaster and small debris (chips, sawdust, etc.). All this must be removed from the surface of the opening. Ideally, before installing new PVC windows, the window opening should be presented or neatly brickwork(if the house is brick), or a flat and smooth concrete slab (if the house is panel). All irregularities, cracks and chips are covered with plaster and leveled.

Is the window opening ready? Then you need to check the condition of the PVC windows. It is necessary to inspect the block for deformation, and then check that all parts are complete. Be sure to check the availability of the following components:

• Windowsill;
• Plugs;
• Mounting profile;
• Anchor plates required for fastening the window;
• Installation instructions (some manufacturers provide it in one set with the double-glazed window);
• Accessories (handles, handle caps);
• Low tide.

After everything has been checked, it is necessary to prepare the tools for carrying out installation work.

Tools for installing PVC windows

To install PVC windows with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• Building level;
• Screwdriver;
• Polyurethane foam and a gun for it;
• Hammer;
• Primer;
• Hexagons (it is advisable to have 5-6 pieces in a set);
• Pencil or marker;
• Roulette;
• Paint brush.

As a rule, installers are limited to a smaller set of tools. But since you need to do correct installation DIY plastic windows, and these windows must be installed securely, it is recommended to use the list above.

Taking measurements of windows

You can carry out two measurement methods - with a quarter and without a quarter. Let's take a closer look at each of these methods.

Taking measurements without a quarter

The PVC window is installed in the cleaned and pre-prepared window opening. To order a window, you need to make the following calculations:

• Window height: five centimeters are subtracted from the vertical of the window opening;
• Window width: three centimeters are subtracted horizontally from the window opening.

The resulting gaps will subsequently be blown out polyurethane foam. As a result, the following parameters are obtained: an indentation of 1.5 centimeters is made on the sides of the opening and 2.5 centimeters on the top and bottom sides.

After this, the window sill and drain are measured. Each value obtained must be increased by at least 6-7 centimeters.

Taking measurements with a quarter

Measurements are carried out as follows: the window opening is measured horizontally at the bottleneck. The resulting value must be increased by three centimeters - this way the required window width is determined. In the vertical direction, the length is measured from the base of the window opening to the upper quarter - this way the height of the window is determined.

Based on the results of measurements, you should get the following indicators:

• Window width and height;
• Width and height of the window sill;
• Width and height of drain.

Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

In most cases, GOST for installation plastic windows is for advisory purposes only. However, we recommend adhering to the basic requirements - this is necessary, first of all, for the home owner himself.

There are two installation technologies. Do-it-yourself installation of double-glazed windows can be done with and without unpacking windows. In the first case, it is necessary to completely disassemble the window - remove the glazing beads, pull out the double-glazed window, then fix the frame with anchor bolts in the opening, and then install the double-glazed windows and glazing beads. In the second case, the window is not disassembled, but is fixed using special fasteners, anchor plates, without the use of through fastening with dowels. The first method is considered more difficult and requires certain work skills. That is why we will consider only the second case, as the most preferable for the majority of ordinary people.

Installing windows

Before you start installing windows according to GOST, you need to create own plan. This can be either a self-developed drawing or instructions that come with the manufacturer. Following the plan will help you complete the work without errors and with maximum accuracy.

The work is performed as follows:

• The surface of a pre-prepared window opening treated with a primer in order to ensure better adhesion with hydro- and vapor barrier tapes. You need to apply the primer with a regular paint brush.
• We remove the packaging from the windows and glue it on the semi-perimeter of the frame sealing tape PSUL. This will provide additional protection for the polyurethane foam from harmful effects UV rays and precipitation.
• The window frame is installed in the opening. This moment Next we will look in more detail.
• Fill the seam with polyurethane foam.
• The next step is to cover the frame internal vapor barrier. For this purpose inside The frame is glued with vapor-proof tape.

We use the following rules when installing a plastic window:

1. We put marks on those places of the frame where the fastening will subsequently take place.
2. Fastening elements are attached to the frames from the sides, while a step of 50 cm is maintained. It must be taken into account that the maximum indentation from the edges should be no more than 15 cm.
3. Fastening elements - anchor plates - are attached to the window opening with self-tapping screws.
4. The window is placed on plastic mounting wedges according to the construction level. Any deviations must be avoided.
5. For additional fixation on the sides, mounting wedges or ordinary wooden blocks are used - they are inserted into the spaces between the fasteners.

• On the outside of the window, after installing the frame, a diffuse tape under the ebb is fixed.
• The gaps that remain between window frame and walls, it is necessary to blow out with foam.

Tip: When fastening the window frame using fasteners, there is no need to tightly tighten all the screws. Only after the structure is finally secured can the fastening elements be brought to the stop.

The window sill comes in one set with metal-plastic windows. The master himself determines what width it should have. Measurements are taken, after which the window sill is carefully trimmed to fit desired length. Next, the window sill is installed as follows:

• The window sill is installed on wooden blocks and adjusted in height. The adjustment must be carried out with building level so that the window sill is strictly horizontal in relation to the window opening.
• After the position is finally established, the window sill is removed and plugs are put on its side parts. An adhesive mixture is laid on the wooden blocks that serve as the base for the window sill (it is recommended to use SM-11 or a similar material).
• The window sill is reinstalled on the bars and pressed a little. During this procedure, it is necessary to use a building level, since the window sill may move slightly to the side during installation.
• After the adhesive solution is fixed, the space between the window sill and the window opening is blown with foam.

Low tide installation

Either a home-made drip sill or the one that comes with a metal-plastic bag can be installed. If you purchase a drain, you need to take into account that it is attached with self-tapping screws to the bottom profile, and the part of the window protruding above it must protect the junction of the profile with the drain. The drain itself is installed extremely simply: a profile is attached to the window opening, after which the drain is secured to it using self-tapping screws. For additional protection The fastening points are blown out with polyurethane foam.

Sealing PVC windows

Technological features foaming instructions are written on the container with polyurethane foam. Each master can verify this for himself by reading detailed instructions indicated on the cylinder. The foam polymerization process is catalyzed by high humidity. That is why, before starting the sealing process, it is necessary to wet the areas with plain water. In the absence of moisture, polymerization will not be of sufficient quality.

After the foam has hardened, it must be carefully cut using a regular stationery knife. Do this carefully so as not to damage metal-plastic windows.

Advice: Do not try to fill the entire cavity of the assembly seam the first time. First you need to use mounting gun Apply a little foam, wait until it swells, and then reapply the required amount.

Common installation mistakes

Both beginners and experts can make mistakes when installing plastic windows. Generally, the most common are the following:

• Taking incorrect measurements or lack thereof;
• Selecting unsuitable profiles for installation;
• Installation on uneven surface, or on a surface that has not been previously cleaned;
• Installation of PVC windows without level;
• Incorrectly secured window. Some people either use too many fasteners or none at all. There is only one result - the window may become deformed during operation;
• Installing a window at insufficient depth. If the window is placed too close to the inner edge of the window opening, the temperature around the window may significantly drop, and, as a result, condensation may form;
• Improper sealing. The installation seams are either insufficiently filled with foam or unevenly. This leads to the fact that after several years of operation the window begins to fog up and loses some of its advantages.

In order to avoid common mistakes, it is necessary to carry out installation exclusively according to the instructions and in compliance with technological features.

Conclusion

As a conclusion, I would like to note: installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any difficulties. The entire process of installing one medium-sized double-glazed window lasts for one day. This takes into account not only the installation process itself, but also the time spent on dismantling, cleaning and preparation. As a result, you will not only get reliable design, but you will also significantly save your own money.

We hope that our description technological process PVC installation-windows will help you in further construction work.

Installation of plastic windows photo

This section presents photographs on the topic of today's article. All photos are clickable.

Today, PVC windows have become very common, and along with them, those companies that install them have gained wide popularity.

However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.

Step-by-step instructions for installing windows

The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:

1. Dismantling old windows.
2. Preparatory activities for installing a new window.
3. Installation of the stand profile.
4. Attaching the mounting hardware to the frame of the new window.
5. Creation of special recesses for these fasteners in the wall.
6. Direct installation of the window and its alignment.
7. PVC fastening.
8. Filling all seams with polyurethane foam.
9. Window sill installation and leveling.
10. Fastening slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Low tide installation.

It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:

1. Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
2. Preparing to install the opening.
3. Do-it-yourself preparation of PVC windows.
4. Direct installation.

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Measurements and calculations

Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:

• has a quarter;
• does not have a quarter.

A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.

If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

It must also be said that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.

As for the opening that has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.

In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.

There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows yourself allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.

You just need to say that both ebb and window sills should be 5 cm larger than what was obtained as a result of the measurements.

As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone if the first attempt is unsuccessful.

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Making a window opening

So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.

First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done different ways. If you are dealing with old wooden window, then it’s better to do this:

1. First, remove all the glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or nails holding them in place.
2. Then remove any nails or glazing beads that are holding the frame itself.
3. Remove frame.

Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. During the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.

It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so old layer it is necessary to remove it, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Of course, this should only be done in wooden niches.

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The process of preparing a new window

It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. Concerning independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.

It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, remove the pin, which is located in the upper loop. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by carefully picking it up and pushing it out. After removing the pin, the sash can be easily removed from bottom loop. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and moved to the side with a smooth movement.

It must be said that such procedures need to be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.

WITH outside frames need to be removed protective film so that there are no difficulties with this later.

Then you need to apply markings, that is, mark the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. Minimum distance there should be at least 15 cm from the attachment point to the corner.

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Installation methods for PVC windows

It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.

So, installation of PVC windows can be carried out in one of two ways:

• on anchor bolts or dowels;
• using special fastening fittings.

Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of appropriate sizes are drilled.

Installation using these fasteners is good when we're talking about about concrete, block or brick walls.

As for fastening fittings, they are usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.

The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed against the wall. Such plates themselves are attached using ordinary self-tapping screws.

If you want to install plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid extra work associated with subsequent leveling of slopes.

Very often, builders use both methods at once when installing windows, which is also acceptable.

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Installation technology

Window installation begins with the prepared frame or the entire window being inserted into the niche. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.

The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these same corners.

Spacer wedges or angles are best placed under the frame mounting points.

This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.

Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fastening devices used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:

1. If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in completely, but only so as to slightly “bait” it.
2. On concrete or brick walls, marks are placed through the same holes. Then the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled at the marks. The frame is then installed in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
3. In the case when fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they simply need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.

After preliminary installation, you need to check the verticality and horizontality of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional construction hydraulic level or a plumb line.

After checking, the frame is completely secured. At the same time, the anchors are not tightened too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.

Then you should attach all dismantled to preparatory stage window parts, i.e. glass or sash. After installation they should be adjusted.

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. A situation often arises when the window is so smaller than the opening that there is a gap between them that is larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.

When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Suitable cement mortar.

The ebb is installed on foam. Additionally, it is attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden blocks.

The ebb tide is installed with an inclination away from the window.

After the foam has dried, you can begin installing the window sill. It starts under the “clover” by 2 cm. It must be said that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also installed on polyurethane foam.

After all installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.

More recently, in glazing residential buildings And industrial buildings, exclusively wooden window frames were used. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern ones. metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance characteristics, they are much cheaper wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you don’t need to have superpowers. Almost any person who can hold a tool in their hands can cope with such a task.

However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput of street air into the apartment.

To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step by step instructions, which will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust professionals, know that some of them are not really professionals, and for a number of reasons they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea of ​​the work being carried out, you can easily carry out self-control over the whole process. And subsequently you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.

The main stages of installing new windows:

• taking measurements;
• dismantling old windows;
• preparing openings;
• installation of a metal-plastic structure.

Not everyone knows that the manufacturer gives absolutely no guarantee for its services when installing windows. on our own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not hope for a return or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are manufactured strictly according to pre-agreed dimensions. If you make a mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or may end up being much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of product installation.

Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all advantages modern design and expected level of comfort.

Window measurements

Carrying out necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, their formulas for calculating sizes are different.

For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the resulting figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the largest distance between the vertical quarters should not exceed the design width of the block.

The height is determined by measuring between the top quarter and bottom surface of the window opening.

If the window opening is without a quarter, the required values ​​can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to place a window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal dimension.

When determining the size of the window sill and ebb, it is worth considering the following details:

1. Often the size of a window sill is chosen based on its functionality. He must cover heating batteries and indoor flowers should be placed on it;
2. The length of the window sill is taken to be 8-10 cm longer than the window opening, its edges should be recessed into the cavity of the slope by approximately 4-5 cm;
3. The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.

Features of measuring balcony windows

When calculating the width balcony windows The length of the parapet is taken as the basis; the entire structure will rest on it. Also, on both sides it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for installation corner profile, with the help of it they connect window units front and side parts. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of the difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for gaps for fastening, will be the height.

Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width to install the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.

Features of window measurements in private houses and old buildings

When taking measurements of windows in private houses and old buildings, it is recommended to first knock off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials that can crumble during the process of dismantling the existing window. The positive point here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleaned window opening.

Ordering a metal-plastic window

Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.

WITH technical characteristics The manufacturer's consultants will help you figure out which plastic windows will be preferable for your home at the time of ordering.

Some important points during installation

When installing windows yourself, you should pay attention to the following:

• the metal-plastic structure must be well secured;
• the mounting foam used to fix the windows must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent it from sagging and deforming the frame in the future);
• It is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help avoid warping).

How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands

Before starting installation, prepare everything you need for work:

1. Window frame with fasteners;
2. Building level;
3. Polyurethane foam;
4. Mount;
5. Bulgarian;
6. Windowsill.

The process of preparing a window block

Window preparation is important stage installation work that you do yourself. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used; very carefully, you need to use it to pick out the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released glazing beads will need to be marked; sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The glass unit will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.

Decorative plugs must also be removed from the swing doors, then unscrew the clamping bolts. If there is a transom opening system, release the top of the sash by turning the handle to the center and remove the hook from below.

Ultimately, you should end up with a free frame, on which there are only lintels separating and reinforcing the sashes. On inner surface Holes are cut along the contour of the plastic frame for fastening anchors. The minimum number of such holes should be three for the sides, two for the lower and upper ends. For drilling, use metal drills, because the window is made of metal and plastic, and inside it has a metal inclusion for strength characteristics.

To fix the frame, it is preferable to take anchors with a diameter of 0.8-1 cm and metal drills of the same size.

Detailed instructions for installing windows

Finally, some tips for installation:

Comfort and coziness for you and your loved ones with new windows installed by yourself!

Almost every novice master wants to learn how to install a plastic window himself. The advantages of such windows include not only performance characteristics, but also ease of installation. These designs are completed with fasteners and additional parts, so even a novice craftsman can install the windows with his own hands. However, in order to do everything correctly, you should take into account the existing nuances. First of all, it is worth noting that it is very difficult to complete the work alone, so it is recommended to hire an assistant.

Elements that will be needed to install plastic windows:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• polyurethane foam;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• slopes;
• windowsill;
• low tides

Before purchasing windows, you will need to take measurements of the opening, taking into account the design. It can be with or without a quarter. Quarter openings are typical for foam block construction. It is worth knowing that such designs significantly reduce heat loss.

In an opening without a quarter, it will be necessary to order windows whose length is 5 cm less than the length of the window opening. The width should be 3 cm less than the corresponding opening indicator. 1.5 cm gaps should be provided along the contour, which will need to be sealed with foam in the future. You will need to leave 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

Windows with quarter and without quarter

Windows must be ordered by adding 3 cm to the width. The length remains the same. Insulating tapes will need to be applied not to the plastic frame, but to the place where the quarters contact the PVC window. The frame should be pressed against the quarters.

In an opening without a quarter as protective and decorative elements that can prevent the influence external factors on technical properties polyurethane foam, external and internal slopes will be used.

It should be taken into account that what bigger slit, the greater the consumption of expensive foam. If you want to save money, gaps larger than 4 cm can be partially filled with polystyrene foam or bricks. Gaps from 1 to 4 cm are filled exclusively with foam.

In most cases, windows are not placed in the middle of the opening, but retreating 1/3 deep from the outer base.

However, those who want to mount the window themselves can use options with an offset in the direction they need. This must be taken into account when purchasing a window sill and related accessories. You will need to add approximately 5 cm to the width, which will be calculated based on the placement of the windows.

Existing frame fixation methods

The technology for installing windows will depend on the material from which the walls of the structure are built, as well as on the dimensions of the windows. Based on these factors, you need to choose a method for fixing elements.

You can secure the structures as follows:

1. Fixation with dowels, which are inserted into the wall through prepared holes in the profile.
2. Plates with teeth that will need to be pressed into the profile. The elements are not mounted into the wall, but installed sideways and fixed with screws. When installation is complete, foam it assembly seams and install slopes under which the anchor plates can be hidden. The space between the plane of the opening and the slope must be filled with foam. To reduce the consumption of foam, part of which will be used for additional leveling, a recess can be made under the plate.

The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used in most cases to install heavy window designs. If the fastening is through, the window will resist various impact loads that may arise, for example, when using windows with sashes that open in several directions. Anchors that pass through the frame will allow you to adjust the structure vertically and horizontally.

Fixing the frame when installing a window

For people who are interested in independently installing small plastic windows with double-glazed windows, the method of fixing them with anchor plates is suitable.

For installation of plates in an opening made of concrete or brick, it is recommended to prepare small recesses so that there is no need to apply an extra layer for leveling before installing the slopes.

In some cases, masters use both methods. The anchors are immersed in the walls through the side parts of the frame and the base of the structure, and top part fixed with plates. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Preparing the window and opening

The opening must be cleared of dust, debris and paint residues. If plastic windows are installed in an existing opening, then upper layer need to be cut down. The foam will need to adhere firmly to this layer.

The gaps between the frame and the opening can be filled exclusively with foam.

To prepare the window, you need to do the following:

1. We release the frame from the sash. To do this, you need to remove the pin, which is mounted in the upper loop. Next, you need to carefully pick it up at the bottom. The element must be lifted and removed from the lower loop. Double-glazed windows must be removed from blind windows. To do this, you will need to remove first the longitudinal and then the transverse beads. To remove glazing beads, you need to insert a knife or spatula into the gap, and then slowly move it away. It is worth noting that a small window can be installed even without dismantling the sashes.
2. The glass unit must be leaned against the wall at an angle, then placed on a flat base, which is covered with cardboard. It is not allowed to install the window flat, as cracks may appear due to the impact of stones.
3. The protective film must be removed from the outer base of the frame. This will be much more difficult to do in the future, so it is recommended to remove it at this stage.
4. Finally, you need to place a place for mounting fasteners. The recommended installation step for these devices is 40 cm. If you plan to use mounting plates, they will need to be attached to the frame in advance with self-tapping screws. Holes must be made for anchors or self-tapping screws, and the drill should be placed with outside frames

Window structure after installation

Sequence of actions for installing windows

The frame will need to be inserted into the opening. First you need to lay plastic corners or small bars around the perimeter. These elements will be needed to ensure technological clearance. The blades need to be moved slightly so that it is possible to clearly align the frame horizontally and vertically with equal slots. It is recommended to check the location using a building level. The blades must be placed close to the fixation point with screws or anchors.

Speaking about how to install plastic windows, it is worth knowing that installation can be done in several ways. Therefore, at this stage there will be differences. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the opening of a wooden house through the recesses in the frame. In this case, you do not need to screw the fasteners all the way.
2. On foam concrete or brick walls, points should be marked through the recesses in the frame, then remove the frame and drill holes with a drill that matches the material. Then we put the frame in place and install the fastening element.
3. There is no need to perform any complex actions when installing on anchor plates. They will need to be bent so that they adjoin the place that is intended for their fastening.
4. The final fixation is carried out after checking the horizontal and vertical lines with a plumb line. There is no need to tighten the elements too much, as the frame may bend. Screwing must be completed when the head is level with the frame.
5. The parts that were removed will need to be returned to their place in the reverse order, and then the functionality of the product will be checked.
6. The gaps need to be filled construction foam. The seams are covered with protective tape. On the outside, the insulation tape must be recessed.
7. You need to fill the gap under the drain with foam.
8. On next stage window sill is installed. Plastic construction You will need to move it under the clover a few centimeters.

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day. To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used the optimal ones thermal characteristics windows with four chambers window profile and double-glazed windows, as well as a reinforced entrance door. By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there). For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam. The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window. We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3 centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically. You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows. In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also not in the frame bubble level. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place. The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience. Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and therefore destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon. This happens naturally when building from aerated concrete if you follow the technology and every next row level the masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile. To support the frame on the base of the opening I use a piece of laminate 7 mm thick.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the side window vertically. In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates. Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone. I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side, except the bottom. Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make is that the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation. Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully operational when held only anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output. There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know. First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed. The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward. It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

15. Next, install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window opens poorly or jams, this is a sign that errors were made when installing the window. Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up. And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. Cut to length, fix to window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done! Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Now comes the fun part. The Chertanovo office of the Okna Rosta company decided that there should be a discount on windows not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All the details are here -