The heating system is one of the main engineering systems in the house, be it country cottage or ordinary apartment. We can forget about it in the summer, but with the onset of cold weather in our latitudes, it is basically impossible to live without it. The heating system consists of many elements. For example, autonomous and centralized heating differ in parameters, but each of them will have a device such as a radiator.
A radiator is the final device that transfers the energy of the coolant in the pipes to the premises. If you decide to save money and install heating radiators yourself, then be sure to study this article. After all, from the right thermal calculation, selection and installation of equipment greatly depends on the efficiency of heating, and therefore on your further comfort and even safety.
Types of heating batteries
A heating radiator (often called a “battery” in everyday life) is a device consisting of separate hollow sections within which coolant circulates. His the main task– increase the area of the radiating surface to increase the amount of heat transferred to the room. Heat is transferred primarily by convection, when warmer air masses rise and are replaced by colder ones. A small part is also contributed by radiation and thermal conductivity.
Based on manufacturing methods, batteries can be divided into two types: collapsible and non-removable. Collapsible radiators are assembled from single vertical sections connected by seals - radiator nipples. The number of sections is selected according to the calculated thermal power.
Sectioned aluminum radiator
Non-separable, or panel radiators- This monolithic structures, in which only welding and casting are used. Due to the smaller number of connections, such devices are more reliable, but less versatile.
Wiring methods
First of all, we need to highlight two general schemes heating systems: one-pipe and two-pipe.
In a single-pipe system, radiators are connected in series, and one pipe is used for hot and cooled coolant. This scheme is more demanding in selecting the diameter of the pipes, and the number of heating devices should not exceed 4 - 5 with a total pipeline length of up to 30 m. Since the water cools when passing through the radiators and giving off heat to them, the radiators located lower down the riser should have a larger power (i.e. surface area) to compensate for the lower coolant temperature.
It is important! As the name suggests, two-pipe scheme involves the use of two pipes: for hot coolant (supply) and cooled coolant (return). All radiators are connected in parallel to the system, and water flows into them at approximately the same temperature.
Video: replacing batteries
After installing the radiators, pressure testing of the heating system must be carried out - pumping coolant into the system under pressure several times higher than the working one, and monitoring leaks for a short period of time. This step cannot be omitted, since it guarantees further uninterrupted operation heating system. If you don't know how to do this, call a plumber. In addition to knowledge, crimping requires a special pump, which makes no sense to buy just once.
The creation and repair of a heating system, as a rule, involves the replacement or installation of heating devices. Fortunately, if you wish, you can carry out this work yourself, saving a lot of money. In what order should the installation of heating radiators be carried out, what is necessary to complete the work and what nuances may await during repairs - we will tell you about this in our article.
What do you need for installation?
Installation of any heating radiator does not take place without purchasing certain Supplies and use special devices. At the same time, regardless of the type, the set necessary materials almost always remains identical. The differences are only in small points, for example, larger plugs are used to install a cast iron battery, an automatic air vent is placed above the system, and the Mayevsky tap is not used at all.
Unlike cast iron products, the installation of bimetallic and aluminum heating radiators is carried out in the same way.
As for the placement of steel panel products, the installation procedure has slight differences affecting the moment of hanging the battery. In this case, the kit should include brackets, in addition, with reverse side must be present metal temples, through which heating device installed on the hooks of the brackets.
Shut-off valves
During the installation of a heating radiator, a pair of shut-off or ball valves is also required. In the first case, they must be regulated. The products are placed at the output and input of each battery.
Ordinary ball valves are used for emergency repairs to turn off and dismantle the radiator, for example, for a moment heating season. With this approach, even if something goes wrong during repair, the system will still function without the part being repaired. The main advantage of this solution is the low cost of ball valves. But on the other hand, you deprive yourself of the ability to adjust heat transfer.
Shut-off control valves do almost the same thing, with one exception - they can also adjust the intensity of coolant flow. Of course, here the price will be slightly higher, but this will make it possible to change the heat transfer in the future. In addition, externally, such devices look much better, especially in angular and straight versions. The result is a neater binding.
Nearby if necessary ball valve can be installed on the coolant supply thermostat. It is a small element that makes it possible to adjust the heat transfer of the battery. However, if your heating radiator itself does not heat the room well, then you should not install a thermostat! Otherwise, the flow will decrease and the battery will heat up even worse.
Today there are different kinds thermostats, ranging from electronic automatic to conventional mechanical. The latter, by the way, are used in homes more often than others.
Stub
At lateral connection Radiators usually have 4 outlets. One of them is covered with a plug, the second is equipped with a Mayevsky tap, the remaining two are allocated for the return and supply pipelines. Like the overwhelming number of modern heating batteries, the product is usually painted with white enamel, pleasantly complementing the interior of the house.
Automatic air vent or Mayevsky tap
These elements are small devices for releasing air accumulated in the radiator. Installation is carried out on the collector; it is required when using bimetallic and aluminum radiators. The dimensions of the device are significantly smaller than the diameter of the collector, which may require an additional adapter. However, Mayevsky taps are usually supplied with adapters. The only thing that is required from the buyer is to know exactly the diameter of the collector.
As for automatic air vents, they are also installed on radiators. Compared to Mayevsky taps, they have larger dimensions, which is why they are made only of nickel and brass. Over time, air vents may become coated with enamel, damaging appearance radiator Based on this, the installation of these elements is not carried out so often.
Additional tools and materials
In addition to the listed elements, for installing and hanging heating radiators you will definitely need brackets and hooks. Moreover, their number will directly depend on the dimensions of the battery itself:
- If the dimensions of the product do not exceed 1.2 meters or the number of sections does not exceed 8, then a pair of fixation points will be sufficient - one at the bottom and one at the top;
- Every next 5-6 sections or 50 centimeters in length require the use of an additional retainer at the bottom and top.
To seal the connections, you will need fum tape, plumbing paste or linen winding.
At the same time, during work you cannot do without dowels, a level and a drill with drill bits. In addition, special equipment will be required to secure fittings and pipes, although this will largely depend on the type of pipe.
Radiator mounting location
It is customary that heating systems are located under the window. This is necessary to cut off cold air from the window with warm air rising upward. You can avoid window fogging due to the dimensions of the heating device, where the width should not exceed 70-75 percent of the window width. During installation, the following parameters must be taken into account:
- The distance from wall to wall should be from 2 to 5 centimeters;
- In the center of the window opening, where there is maximum tolerance should not exceed 2 cm;
- The gap to the window sill is 10-12 centimeters;
- Between the floor and the radiator - 8-12 centimeters.
Battery installation procedure
Now let's talk about how to properly install heating radiators. The work will be much easier if the surface of the wall behind the battery is as smooth as possible.
The middle of the opening is marked on the site, and a horizontal line is drawn under the window sill at a distance of 10-12 cm. The heating device will be aligned along this line in the future. The brackets should be placed in such a way that the top corresponds to the drawn line, in other words, remains strictly horizontal. This arrangement is acceptable for apartments and systems using forced circulation . Along the coolant flow in systems with natural circulation a small slope of 1-1.5 percent is performed. These values cannot be exceeded, otherwise stagnation will form.
Floor installation
Typically, heating equipment is installed on walls, but it happens that they are not able to support even light-weight aluminum products. This happens when walls are covered with plasterboard or plastered with lightweight concrete. In these cases, floor installation is used.
Some types of steel and cast iron radiators are initially equipped with legs, but they do not always suit the owners in terms of their characteristics and appearance.
Bimetallic and aluminum products can also be installed on the floor. This provides special brackets, which are fixed to floor surface. Next is mounted heating equipment, the lower collector is installed on the legs in an arc. The legs themselves come in either a fixed leg or an adjustable one. Depending on the material, fastening can be done using dowels or nails.
Fixing to the wall
Hooks are selected depending on the type of dowels. A hole is drilled in the wall the right size, where a plastic dowel is subsequently installed. Next, the hook is screwed in. The gap between the heating device and the wall is adjusted with a hook by screwing/unscrewing.
When installing hooks, it is worth considering that most of the load will come to the top of the structure. In this case, the bottom is only needed to hold the system in the desired position. Installation is made 1.5 centimeters below the lower manifold. If this is not done, then in the future the radiator simply will not be able to be hung properly.
The brackets are placed in the place where the installation will take place. For this purpose, the first step is to attach the battery to the wall, after which the points of contact of the brackets are marked. Next, holes are drilled, dowels are driven in and brackets are screwed in. Having placed all the fasteners, the battery is then hung.
Methods for piping heating radiators
Installation of heating systems is carried out with subsequent connection to the pipeline. There are 3 main connection methods:
- Diagonal;
- One-sided;
- Saddle.
When choosing radiators with bottom connections, you don’t have much to choose from. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer himself indicates the supply and installation instructions, which must be followed! Otherwise, there will simply be no heat in the house. When choosing systems with side connections, there are noticeably more installation methods.
Saddle connection
At hidden wiring pipes or lower wiring, installation by this method is considered less noticeable in terms of the finished result and more convenient.
With a lower single-pipe distribution and a saddle connection, as a rule, 2 methods are used - without a bypass and with it. The taps can be installed without a bypass; if desired, the radiator is dismantled and a temporary jumper is placed between the taps.
Much less often this type connection is used when vertical wiring, for example, in risers in multi-storey buildings. This is explained increased heat losses, which amount to 12-15 percent.
Diagonal connection
In terms of heat transfer, a diagonal connection of heating radiators is considered the most optimal of all. Heat transfer is considered the largest.
In apartments with vertical risers and a single-pipe system, the finished result is not the most attractive, although many residents still put up with this due to the increased efficiency.
It is important to note that a bypass will again be needed with a single-pipe system!
One way connection
In apartment conditions, a one-way connection is most often used. It can be single-pipe, which is most likely, or double-pipe. Today in apartments they are most often used metal pipes, and therefore it makes sense to analyze the method of tying steel pipes. Besides the pipes required diameter, for installation you will also need a pair of tees, ball valves and a drive.
Everything connects. Bypass is considered mandatory when using single pipe system . Using it, it is possible to turn off the radiator without the need to bleed the system. You cannot install a tap on the bypass, otherwise you will block the flow of coolant, greatly upsetting your neighbors. And in this case it will be difficult to get rid of a fine.
Threaded joints are sealed with linen winding or fum tape. Next, paste is applied on top. There is no need to use a lot of winding when screwing the tap into the manifold. If there is a large amount of it, the formation of microcracks cannot be ruled out, which will lead to further damage in the future. This point remains relevant for almost all heating products, not counting cast iron appliances.
The bypass can be welded if available appropriate tool and skills.
WITH two-pipe system bypass is not required. The return is connected at the bottom, the supply at the top.
This type of connection is rarely used when lower location pipes, for example when they are laid on the floor. This is due to its not the most attractive appearance. Instead, a diagonal connection is more often used.
Efficiency autonomous system heating depends on the right choice and connections of heating devices.
Installation of radiators in apartment building It’s better to trust a plumber who will be responsible for the quality of work and possible leaks.
Installing batteries in a private home is possible without the participation of a specialist. Having studied and selected the connection diagram, you can independently install radiators in the heating of a private house.
Comfortable living depends on proper installation heating devices.
When installing it yourself, pay attention to the following points:
- compliance with installation rules;
- compliance with the sequence of connecting elements: pipes, fittings, boiler, stainless steel boiler () and pump);
- selection of equipment and components;
- arrangement of devices.
Preliminary planning
There are rules for installing radiators in a private house.
These are not mandatory requirements, but can improve battery performance:
- the radiator is mounted 10-15 cm from the floor;
- distance to the window sill – at least 10 cm;
- The battery is mounted at a distance of 2 cm from the walls.
IMPORTANT! Failure to comply with these rules may result in heat loss, fogging of windows, and damage to wall coverings.
When planning installation locations, take into account the presence and number of windows in the room. Installing a radiator under a window will create thermal curtain against the cold that comes from the opening.
If there are several windows in the room, then batteries are installed under each.
Pay attention to the layout of the premises - in corner rooms an additional heating device is installed.
The degree of heating of the premises depends on many factors: location, number of windows, proximity front door, purpose of the room.
To maintain a comfortable microclimate in each room, we provide for adjusting the heating of the radiators.
Radiators are equipped with automatic or manual controls.
ATTENTION! You can increase the heat transfer of the battery by installing a heat reflector on the back or applying a special reflective coating to the wall.
Wiring options
Installation of batteries in a private house is carried out according to two schemes:
- single-pipe;
- two-pipe.
Single-pipe option used in a two or three storey building.
The coolant (about the use of antifreeze in the heating system is written in the article) is supplied through the central line to the top floor.
Passing through the batteries from top to bottom, water flows to the boiler.
This scheme has advantages:
- minimum cost and materials costs;
- relatively simple installation;
- circuit compatible with warm floors and radiators of various types;
- wiring and installation do not depend on the layout of the rooms;
- one pipe improves the aesthetics of the room.
Despite the obvious advantages, the scheme has a number of disadvantages:
- complex hydraulic and heat calculations (how to properly install a hydraulic accumulator for heating is written);
- it is impossible to regulate the heat transfer of a separate device;
- large heat losses;
- the movement of the coolant requires an increase in pressure (how to push air lock written in the heating system).
ATTENTION! Difficulties with water circulation using a single-pipe scheme can be solved by installing a circulation pump without a bypass (written on the page).
Two-pipe version assumes parallel connection radiators.
In this case, the design contains two branches: forward and reverse.
Through a straight pipe, the battery receives hot water, and the cooled coolant leaves through the return line. Both branches are connected at the heating end point.
Compared to a single-pipe scheme, this has two advantages:
- The heat output of each device is regulated separately;
- In cases of accidents and scheduled maintenance, the heating continues to function. Both branches overlap directly at each battery.
Disadvantages include::
- high cost,
- installation duration.
The choice of pipe layout depends on the characteristics of the house and the preferences of the owner. It is worth remembering that adjusting the heat transfer compensates for the costs of installation and materials.
Connection methods
In addition to wiring diagrams, they use different variants connecting radiators to the pipeline.
- One-way connection (side).
With this connection, the forward and return branches are connected on one side of the battery.
Uniform heating of each radiator element is achieved with a small volume of water.
Used in high-rise buildings with a large number batteries
GOOD TO KNOW. The number of sections in the radiator should not exceed 12 pieces.
Long radiators, with one-way connection, warm up worse.
This reduces heat transfer efficiency.
Radiator installation
Installing a radiator in the heating system of a private home is a task for a professional plumber.
Installation can be done independently, knowing the connection methods, reading the instructions for the radiator and following the technology.
If the work is done correctly and the connections are tight, then there will be no problems with the radiator.
Installing the device yourself will minimize costs.
We follow the sequence of actions when installing radiators:
Aluminum, bimetallic and cast iron
Progress does not stand still. Manufacturers are promoting batteries made from the latest materials:
- super light aluminum
- bimetallic.
But despite this, classic cast iron radiators do not give up positions.
The material retains heat for a long time, which reduces fuel costs.
Technologies have made it possible to cast devices of modern shapes.
The installation of such batteries has specifics:
- Before installation, the battery is disassembled, nipples are adjustable.
To avoid distortion, the upper and lower nipples are unscrewed at the same time;
- assemble the sections in reverse order.
We pressurize the assembled radiator. If a leak appears, then adjust the corresponding nipple;
- wooden walls will not support the weight of a cast iron battery.
In wooden a private house devices with floor supports are installed. We fix brackets into brick or panels and hang a cast iron radiator on them;
- install the radiator with bypass () and Mayevsky tap.
It is necessary to provide shut-off valves and circulation pump(), which will shut off the heating device in the event of an accident or repair.
Pipeline installation carried out using threaded fittings, ensuring tightness sanitary flax with sealant or oil paint.
Conclusion
Let's prepare necessary materials and components. You can install a radiator in the heating of a private house yourself.
Before starting work, we decide on the wiring option and connection method. During the work process, we follow the instructions and installation technology.
We invite you to watch a video tutorial on assembling and installing an aluminum battery into a heating system.
Replacing heating radiators yourself or even installing heating radiators from scratch is not so much a complicated process as it is a painstaking one. What a plumber can do in a couple of hours may take an amateur several days. However, do-it-yourself work will stimulate new achievements, save a considerable amount of money and may even bring pleasure, especially if you prepare for the process in advance and provide for all the subtleties.
When is the best time to install batteries?
The installation of heating radiators, unless it is an emergency, of course, should take place in the off-season. Central heating turns off in the spring, within a few days - a couple of weeks, utility workers drain water from the system and will only recharge it in the fall. In general, the time to install radiators is from April to October.
In a house with its own heating or an apartment in which there is always water in the system, work on installing batteries should begin with emptying the heating system. At the same time, you can think about what batteries you need to buy.
It is important! If you are going to install new batteries in place of old ones, then you need to choose those that are identical in size to the previous ones. And for the parts that will be needed during installation, it is also important what kind of heating system in the house is one-pipe or two-pipe.
How to choose batteries?
There are four metals from which heating radiators are made:
- Pure cast iron.
- High quality steel.
- Aluminum.
- Connection of steel (copper) and aluminum.
To say that any battery will be ideal is wrong.
Cast iron batteries
This is the heaviest metal with a fairly high heat transfer. Cast iron takes longer to warm up than other metals, but also retains heat longer. most often typesetting. One section weighs 10 kilograms (in Soviet models - 12). The cost of one section is 500 – 600 rubles. However designer model may have a price in dollar equivalent, indicated by three or even four digits.
Minimum thermal power one cast iron section 150 W. Operating pressure at a level of 15 Atm. For heating a room with an area of 15 m2, with standard height ceilings and one double-glazed window, you need to buy about 10 cast iron sections. Information on how to more correctly calculate the number of battery sections will be provided in the subsection below.
The indisputable advantage of cast iron as a battery metal is that it can withstand coolant temperatures of up to 150 °C and is unpretentious to the composition of the water that will be in the battery.
The disadvantages of cast iron batteries are that they are very heavy and will have to be painted periodically.
Read a detailed review on our website.
Aluminum batteries
Manufacturers claim that aluminum radiators- the most common.
- The main advantage of aluminum is its excellent ability to conduct heat.
- The second advantage is that the most unusual designs heating batteries.
- And one last thing. Relatively inexpensive price.
Aluminum radiators have the highest thermal output. The power of one section is 192 W, the operating pressure is 16 Atm. It means that aluminum battery heats up very quickly.
However, there are also disadvantages. Aluminum battery:
- Sensitive to pressure changes in the system. Experts say that with a sharp increase in pressure, an aluminum radiator can burst.
- Requires only purified, softened water. Increased acidity of the liquid leads to faster internal corrosion of the metal.
In general, aluminum radiators are best installed where the quality of the supply water is monitored.
Steel batteries
Steel radiators are not made in the form of sections; these are most often square or rectangular shape. The working pressure here is low - no higher than 8.7 Atm. The power of some manufacturers is stated to be within 20 W. Steel radiators are best used not for central heating.
Advantages of steel batteries:
- Although small in size, they have high heat transfer. This means that a small battery will warm up a large room very quickly.
- For high-quality heating of the room, the system should not have very heat coolant.
These two advantages are balanced by disadvantages.
Attention! Steel radiators rust quickly. They must not be installed in rooms with high humidity. To prevent excessive corrosion, in a system where there is steel radiators, must be shut-off valves for draining water in the off-season.
Bimetallic radiators
The combination of metals can be like this:
- Steel and aluminum.
- Copper and aluminum.
Steel or copper core (this is inner part batteries) heats up quickly and gives off heat to aluminum (the battery body is made of it). The connection of two metals significantly improves the thermal performance of the radiator. Power bimetallic radiator– 185 W. If the internal part is made of copper, then the rated power should be 200 W.
Advantages:
- Chemical resistance to coolant.
- Increased strength.
- Light weight.
- High heat dissipation.
Flaws:
- High price.
Having decided on the price and quality for which you are willing to pay, it is worth making calculations required quantity radiators.
Calculation of the number of sections for high-quality heating
A comfortable temperature for human life is 18 °C (unless, of course, you are lucky enough to live in Ukraine, where due to the lack of gas it is reduced to 14 °C). This temperature regime can be maintained as follows: per 1 m2 of area that is heated, there should be 100 watts of heating radiator power.
The required number of battery sections for comfortable temperature is calculated using the following formula:
S * 100 / P, where
S = room area
P = power of one heating section.
The area of the room is 15 m2, the power of one section of the cast iron battery is 150 W. Means,
15 * 100 / 150 = 10
In total, to heat one room you need 10 sections of a cast iron battery.
Table: example of the number of radiator sections depending on the area of the room
It is necessary to apply certain coefficients that take into account:
- Ceiling height.
- Availability of double glazed windows.
- Number of floors (upper and lower floors have the highest coefficient).
- Number of windows in the room.
- Has insulation been done?
- Where is the room? It is important whether it is angular.
For example, coefficient (K1), which depends on the quality of the windows:
— K1 = 0.85. This is a triple glazed unit.
— K1 = 1. This indicator is for double glazed windows.
— K1 = 1.27. Conventional windows with double glazing and possibly wooden frames.
The K2 coefficient depends on the walls.
K2 = 0.85. New walls with insulation
K2 = 1. Brick walls and insulation.
K2 = 1.27. Panel house with walls without insulation.
Table of required heat supply radiator power
Calculation. To obtain the number of sections, divide the data from the table by the power of one section of the selected radiator (kW).
This is an incomplete list of coefficients. But the ratio of digital indicators and, for example, ceiling height or heating quality is the same as in the examples given above. Each of the coefficients is multiplied by the initial number of radiator sections. Ultimately, the result is a battery that will actually heat the space.
Installing a heating radiator
After the literature has been read, advice from experienced people has been received, the size of the radiators and the number of sections in them have been determined, the order has been made and the car with batteries is already on the way, it’s time to prepare what you will not be able to install without.
Preparatory stage
Almost always, batteries are located under the windows. If access to this part of the room is difficult, you need to free up as much space as possible. Move aside the cabinets, put away the TV, take down the curtains.
You need to know this! If you have to remove old batteries, then in any case, at least a little water will leak out of them. It will not be clean, like from a spring, and there is a possibility that the water will stain with rust. flooring, very high. Therefore, it is better to remove carpets and rugs before replacing batteries. And cover the laminate and parquet with a thick film.
When installing batteries you will need:
- Bypass (if heating system single-pipe).
- Adapters.
- Couplings.
- Nipples.
- Corners.
- Mayevsky cranes.
Mayevsky valve - for releasing air from radiators, opens using a special key or screwdriver
The sealant, winding, and sealing tape, adjustable wrenches. The remaining parts need to be purchased based on what kind of wiring is installed in the room.
Types of heating wiring
In total, there are 5 main types of wiring:
Options for radiator connection diagrams
Now you need to choose the right distance from the wall and window sill for each battery.
Distances to wall and window sill
In addition to the fact that all nuts and valves need to be tightened tightly (without overdoing it), it is also important to fulfill the following conditions:
- From the top of the battery to the window sill there should be at least 5, and preferably 10–15 centimeters.
- A distance of at least 10–12 centimeters must be maintained from the bottom of the battery to the floor.
- There should be at least 5 centimeters from the radiator to the wall.
Compliance with these rules will allow hot air to circulate better and rise up unhindered.
In order for the installation of heating radiators to be completed as quickly and efficiently as possible, it is most rational to involve specialists in this. However, there are situations when the cost of services announced by professionals is clearly beyond the customer’s means. And what to do in this case? Look for cheaper workers whose services are more accessible? But in a number of cases, the quality of the work they perform raises strong doubts. And then any customer comes to a logical solution - to install heating radiators themselves. It's completely doable. The main thing is to do everything carefully, having first read the simple rules and snips.
Installation of heating radiators
General description of the radiator installation process
How to install a heating radiator correctly? The process of installing radiators is not as complicated as most of us imagine it to be. More precisely, it can be difficult if the radiators themselves “try.” Therefore, before choosing any model, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules for its installation. For example, anyone, even if they are not a professional, can perform such an operation as installing an aluminum heating radiator, since they do not require any skills to use additional equipment. However, the same cannot be said about cast iron radiators - in order to install them, you will have to master the rules of using a welding machine.
Before purchasing radiators, you should take a close look at the existing models on the market.
In addition, it would be a good idea to determine for yourself what exactly the characteristics of the radiators you need will be based on the following criteria:
- wear resistance;
- efficiency;
- flow;
- resistance to the environment.
And if you correctly determine these parameters and are able to select the appropriate radiators, then the heating system in your home will delight you with warmth for many years. A significant role is played not only by the installation diagram of heating batteries, but also by the material from which the radiators are made. The fact is that many modern models, made of ultra high quality and environmentally friendly materials, have an exorbitant price. Therefore, try to look realistically at your capabilities and needs. Hardly in country house you may need super expensive batteries.
At self-installation Heating radiators should be extremely careful and careful.
In particular, during installation, parameters such as the height of the radiator relative to the floor and the distance between the wall and the radiator should be taken into account. To a lesser extent, it matters which wall the battery will be attached to - most modern models Easily mounted on walls covered with plasterboard. However, remembering the characteristics that you should rely on is quite simple - the distance from the floor to the bottom point of the battery should not be less than 5 cm. The same distance (at least 5 cm) should be between the wall and back wall radiator
It is very simple to carry out such an operation as installing heating batteries yourself. If you have never dealt with any similar work before, then the necessary information and the complete installation process can be found on our website, where instructions and video materials are presented. In addition, today there is a large number of specialized forums and resources where professional craftsmen share tips and show optimal schemes installation of heating radiators. And, using information from such a site, you can easily find out how to properly install a heating battery yourself.
Installation tools
If you have never exercised before repair work and did not install radiators, we can assume that you are unlikely to have the necessary set of tools. However, this does not mean that you necessarily need to run to the store and buy everything. Firstly, it is quite expensive, and secondly, you may not need it in the future.
Therefore, the most rational thing to do before installing a radiator is to simply ask your friends - perhaps someone has what you need.
So, to install radiators you will need: an impact drill and a drill with a Pobedit tip, a screwdriver, pliers, and a building level.
A little trick - purchasing heating radiators, check in advance that all elements have been collected. If this is not the case, ask the store to put everything together for you - this way you won’t have to purchase an expensive and unnecessary key in the future.
How to choose the right size batteries
Before purchasing batteries, you need to correctly calculate what size they should be - how many sections they should consist of. Quite a lot depends on this, including the installation diagram of heating radiators. After all, an insufficient number of sections will not allow you to warm up the room, and an excessive number will simply be installed in vain.
The size of the batteries is calculated using a very simple formula - 1 kW of radiator power is required per 1 m2. In some cases, the power indicator must be multiplied by a safety factor of 1.3. This is done when two walls in the room are external or there is more than 1 window.
Radiator installation
A process such as installation and installation of heating radiators can be divided into several points. First of all, it is necessary to correctly pack all the plugs, American plugs, and Mayevsky crane. Further, if necessary, it is dismantled old radiator. If, along with replacing radiators, replacement heating element, you must first remove water from the system. To do this, turn off the water and use a pump to try to drain the water as much as possible.
The finished battery must be installed on the wall. The number of fasteners directly depends on the type of radiator and the principle of its installation.
If you are planning to install cast iron heating radiators that will be welded into the system, then only two fasteners are enough. But if the radiator is connected to the system using polypropylene pipes, then there must be at least three fasteners. If the battery is small - 5-6 sections, then the fasteners should be positioned this way - 2 on top and one on the bottom. If the number of sections is 10 or more, then there should be more fasteners: at least 3 in the upper part, and 2 in the lower part.
With help building level define correct location batteries. Next, you need to identify the places where plastic pipe will connect to the metal one. After this, you need to screw on all the elements. It is important to pay Special attention quality and tightness of connections. If there is even the slightest error, expect leakage. To prevent this from happening, use torque wrenches. required size. Be extremely careful - if you are installing bimetallic or aluminum radiators, carefully tighten the valve through which the air will bleed. A force greater than 12 kg cannot be applied to it. In order to tighten this tap correctly, torque wrenches will again be useful.
Features of installation of cast iron radiators
Despite the fact that there are a huge number of types of batteries on the modern market, many of us, when planning how to install a heating radiator, ignore new bimetallic and aluminum radiators, preferring the good old cast iron models.
Few people take into account that installing heating radiators made of cast iron is a more labor-intensive and complex process.
However, the result is worth the time and effort. When installing, you should pay attention to the following factors:
- Before installing a cast iron heating radiator, it is necessary to adjust the nipples. To do this, the radiator is untwisted, the nipples are adjusted, after which everything is put back together. The radiator is now ready for installation. It should be noted that disassembly should be carried out using special keys on a radiator workbench. In this case, it is advisable to unscrew both nipples at the same time - this will avoid distortion. Of course, it is most convenient to perform this action together. Please note that on different sides of the radiator the threads are directed in different sides. After the nipples are unscrewed, remove the section.
- All sections of the radiators are removed in a similar way. Next, we assemble the sections strictly in the reverse order. The assembled radiator requires pressure testing - this way you can determine if there are any leaks. And if it is, re-adjust the nipple.
- In brick and foam concrete houses cast iron radiators are mounted on special supports in the wall without any problems. But if the battery is attached to wooden wall In addition to standard supports, you will also need floor supports.
- If the heating system is single-pipe, a bypass must be installed. In addition, the system must also contain a Mayevsky tap, as well as shut-off valves.
- To connect the radiator to the pipeline, it is necessary to use threaded fittings. It is important to remember that it is under no circumstances recommended to use welding machine in a house with wooden walls.
Of course, whether to install heating radiators in an apartment yourself or to entrust it to professionals is a personal matter for each owner. Many go to installation radiator heating for a trivial reason - replacing radiators for them is already too much " expensive pleasure"and additional expenses for hiring specialists could result in ruin for family budget. However, if you are really afraid to take on such work as installing a heating radiator, then it is better not to risk it. After all, specialists will be able to do everything really efficiently. But the only difficulty is that you need to actually find professionals who know the options for installing heating radiators and their subtleties, and not self-taught people who will install radiators for the second time in their lives. Hiring such a “master” can have very dire consequences.
