Often, when constructing a bathhouse, timber or logs are used, which are simply placed one on top of the other. If the selected material is not of stable quality, then small holes can be seen in between them. It can be very difficult to seal them. Over time, these gaps will only increase. This occurs due to the influence of precipitation on them, high temperatures, dryness or humidity.

You can caulk the log house only after it has completely settled and dried.

Logs can become very dry and deformed. Heat will quickly escape through the cracks formed. During the cold season, ice may appear outside, which can lead to rotting and damage to the wood. Therefore, it is necessary to caulk the bathhouse. As a result of such manipulations, the crowns of the log house are sealed with fibrous materials. How to properly caulk a bathhouse will be discussed below.

Features of the construction process

A set of tools for caulking work: 1 – stacked caulking, 2 – crooked caulking, 3 – road worker, 4 – split caulking, 5 – mallet or mushel.

Basically, the construction of a log house can be described in the following stages:

• preparation of the log house: assembling the crowns into a single structure;
• designation of log markings and frame disassembly;
• moving the block to permanent place, assembly;
• insulation of the bath. Sealing gaps.

Great attention should be paid to caulking the building. And not just because it's beautiful. Such a seemingly insignificant and insignificant process of insulating a building is actually the main factor in the development of its good quality and heat retention.

It is best to deal with the insulation of the log house at the time of construction of the bathhouse. A later process will be associated with significant material costs. Caulking this room is an integral attribute during its construction. Such a log bathhouse will delight you with its warmth and solidity.

Insulation of a building is a process that is associated with the careful placement of thermal insulation materials. You can seal cracks using special tools. This is a wooden spatula with a pointed base at the end, a beater or other devices. Properly performed insulation of a bathhouse will affect its durability. If the insulation of a building is not carried out correctly, the wood may rot and be eaten by insect pests.

Return to contents

“Stretched” caulk is used for cracks; stacked caulk is used to compact felt.

Caulking a building is usually done in two steps. The first stage is associated with the moment of initial construction of this building, the second is done after a year, when the natural process of shrinkage of the bathhouse frame occurs.

You can insulate the room after 5 years, as soon as the bathhouse is fixed in its place. In this case, we can talk about the completion of the process of caulking the bath. The moment of thermal insulation of the building will be completed.

It is necessary to insulate a bathhouse (log house) both from the outside and from the inside the buildings. Under this condition, good results can be achieved.

Needed in a certain direction. You should start with the lower logs, gradually moving to the upper points.

The log house of the bathhouse must be completely insulated.

Indeed, during the work process, the building can rise to a certain height. And this will lead to the curvature of the building. Work on insulating a building usually begins with outside building, gradually moving to the interior.

No less important point There will be insulation in the corners of the bathhouse. This is a very important point.

They usually start caulking a log house using the most common methods. This is “set” and “stretched”. In the first case, it is possible to insulate the interslot space in logs that have small defects, in the second - in the presence of large holes.

Insulation using the “stretch” method involves the formation of strands of insulating material the right size. Then it is installed in a transverse position relative to the fibers and inserted with a spatula into the gaps. The edges of such strands should be visible. The tow joints are driven inwards using a chisel.

Caulk external walls The bathhouse begins with the lower logs, gradually moving to the upper beams.

Insulating a bathhouse using the “set” method: tow is rolled up thin stripes, and they are rolled into a skein. Using a chisel, the material is hammered first at the top, then at the bottom of the crack. High-quality caulking of a log bathhouse can be carried out in a short time, knowing the main points of the work.

Insulation of a building should begin with the choice suitable material. These include tow, hemp, felt, and sphagnum moss. When choosing moss, you should focus on its dryness. But it shouldn't crumble.

Mixing moss with tow gives a good insulating effect. Felt is often soaked in resin, bitumen or formaldehyde, then dried. Such actions will help make it reliable, capable of protecting the bathhouse from harmful insects.

Each of listed options are not durable, because they are capable of strongly absorbing moisture, and this is an indispensable path to rotting of the bathhouse frame. Jute and linen wool are good options for innovative options.

The second option is a tape made from low-quality flax or its waste. The basis of jute is natural material. It is durable and remains dry under any external conditions. These foundations are not capable of rotting, breaking or crumbling, and insects do not eat them.

The seams are filled evenly with jute, but it is particularly rigid, which means it can break easily. Glass wool can be used as an insulating material. It is rolled out into a small strip and fixed with a stapler. Jute is almost always mixed with flax fibers. The result is a dense insulating material that is resistant to high temperatures and unattractive to pests.

Building a bathhouse or any other building from a log frame is only half the battle. There is another important job that requires high-quality performance - caulking a bathhouse, which consists of sealing all the cracks to prevent heat loss and wind blowing.

The material for caulking a bath can be chosen from two categories - natural materials (jute, moss, tow) or their synthetic analogues. How to caulk the log house of a bathhouse?

Working with these is much easier and faster than with natural ones. The sealant is leveled with a special spatula and applied with it.

Synthetic sealant

But synthetics also have significant disadvantages:

• Some sealants cannot withstand exposure to sunlight. They fade, become thinner, or are simply blown out of the cracks by the wind. In this case, it is necessary to think about how and with what to cover the joints of the log house;
• Most synthetic sealants do not have the required elasticity. They do not shrink in cold or increase in heat, preventing the natural expansion and contraction of wood.

When choosing synthetic products for caulking a folded log bathhouse, it is extremely important to carefully read the information on the packaging. Make sure that the sealant is suitable for the log wood type, weather conditions and humidity level. Only after this can the product be purchased.

Natural materials

Moss

The undisputed leader among natural materials for caulking baths is moss, which has stood the test of time for centuries. So far, no modern industrial sealant or insulation has been able to surpass moss in quality. What advantages does it have?

Moss treatment

• moss is resistant to rotting;
• has antibacterial properties;
• retains heat perfectly.

Dry moss is first moistened to give it elasticity. The material is then laid on the log so that its ends hang down on both sides. Once the bathhouse is completed, the long ends are trimmed and the remaining moss is tucked between the logs. This is how primary caulking occurs. After six months, and then after another year and a half, the cracks will need to be re-treated.

Jute

Jute has excellent thermal insulation properties; jute fiber remains dry even at high humidity environment. To make work easier, it is recommended to use jute in a roll.

Materials for caulking a jute log house can be of several types:

• Jute tow;
• Jute felt;
• Flax-jute.

Jute tow in bales

To produce tow, jute fibers are not torn, but combed. Jute tow is quite dense and rigid, so working with it is not very convenient.

Since jute is a natural material, tow can easily be stolen by birds to build nests. In addition, over time, the jute tow dries out and becomes denser, so caulking the walls will have to be done several more times.

Jute felt consists of 90% small pieces of jute fiber and 10% flax fiber. This material turns out to be quite flexible, dense and warm. But at the same time, short fibers can simply spill out of the material. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the length of the fibers - it should be at least two centimeters. Otherwise, the material will quickly lose its properties. thermal insulation properties and the wind will blow through the cracks of the log walls. Also, jute felt requires treatment with a special impregnation that does not allow moths to settle in it.

Flax-jute consists of flax fibers and jute in a ratio of 50 to 50. This material is produced in ribbons, which greatly simplifies its use. Flax-jute is prone to rapid rotting and moth damage. High-quality caulking of a bathhouse with such material is possible only after impregnation of it from insects and possible appearance putrefactive processes.

Tow in blocks

Tow is waste from the processing of jute, flax and other materials. On sale you can find tow already ready for use, as well as pressed into square blocks. It is much more convenient to use ready-made tow, since pressed tow requires stretching required quantity material and its further twisting.

Tow is not particularly popular among builders - it is difficult to achieve uniform insulation with it. In addition, this material may be too hard and not elastic enough, so it is not easy to fill the cracks of a timber bathhouse with it accurately and efficiently.

What is the time frame for caulking baths?

When can I start The final stage insulation after the construction of the log house?

If the frame was laid with moss, then it is necessary to cut off its excess. Then the remaining material is tucked into the cracks and carefully pushed inside. All. You should not be particularly zealous - the first caulking will take place six months after the completion of construction. During this time the tree will finally settle down, excess moisture will evaporate. After completing the first caulking, you can install windows and doors.

A year after the first caulking, the second one is carried out, as final stage insulation. After about five years, another caulking procedure may be used, which is optional and depends on what specific materials were used.

How much material will be needed?

It is impossible to accurately derive a formula by which you can calculate the amount of material for sealing cracks.

Natural material, be it jute or moss, is highly compacted and compressed when processing cracks. So its consumption can be quite large. First of all, material consumption depends on the methods of processing logs and cutting grooves.

In any case, you need to buy material for caulking with a large supply - it will not go to waste and will be useful for a repeat procedure. As for industrial sealants, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates the calculation method approximate quantity packages

What rules must be followed?

Materials for caulking baths

The process of caulking a bathhouse itself is quite simple, despite the fact that the work progresses slowly and monotonously. Everything needs to be done efficiently, carefully and slowly; you can spend almost the whole day on this stage.

For getting warm bath It is important not only to caulk the log house correctly, but also not to forget to lay insulation between the rows of logs. It could be jute, moss or tow. The material is laid in two layers, and its edges on all sides should protrude by about 5 centimeters.

You need to start caulking with lower crown, moving around the entire perimeter of the bathhouse from the outside, then carefully seal the cracks from the inside of the building. And only then can you move on to the next crown. Special attention attention should be paid to sealing the corners. As a rule, these are the places where the largest holes and cracks appear. The corners are caulked in last resort, a special blade of a special shape is used.

If the first caulking is performed, then the hanging ends of the material are removed first. No tools have yet been used for this, and the material is not compacted. After some time, it is necessary to push the jute or moss deeper until it begins to spring back slightly, opening new cracks. They are also sealed using another piece of caulking material.

The material should not protrude from the recesses by more than 5 mm, otherwise appearance the baths will be sloppy. You should not overdo it with the amount of insulation, as well as with its compaction, as there is a risk that the building will increase in height by 15 centimeters.

In no case should you leave hanging remains outside - birds can easily take them away to build their nests.

Decorative jute cord

For beautification internal view indoors, you can drive a decorative jute cord into the seams, which looks very impressive on the wall.

If a synthetic sealant is used, we must not forget to thoroughly clean the cracks from dust and dirt. After the sealant has dried, it is recommended to varnish the surface.

When using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the tree. In this case, the fibers of the insulation break, and completely unnecessary microcracks appear in the log, which over time can lead to rotting of the wooden frame.

Caulking the frame of a bathhouse is not so much a difficult job as it is a responsible one. The main thing is to do everything slowly and carefully.

Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study caulking methods, and choose the right inter-crown insulation.

Caulking of a log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after construction and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with laying insulation during the process of assembling the walls or performing one-time work upon completion of construction.

1 way

Lay the bottom row of logs on the base.

Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, lay the second crown, and again a layer of insulation. This is repeated until the very top of the log house. After all work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the seal are driven into the gaps between the beams using caulking.

Method 2

Caulking begins after installation of the roofing system on the log house. Insulation (preferably tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are folded in, formed into a roller and hammered inside the seam. Repeat the procedure in next row and so on to the top of the structure.

The second stage of caulking is carried out after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and driven tightly inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it along the perimeter of the log house.

You cannot caulk one wall first, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the inside to avoid distortions in the structure. The insulation raises the frame by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after construction. During this time, the wood completely shrinks and new gaps form.

There are two ways of caulking - “set” and “stretched”. The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used during primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.

To work, you need tools - a set of caulking tools, a road worker and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make them themselves from hardwood.

Name	Description	What is it used for?
	Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm	The main tool for filling gaps between crowns
	Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm	Used to seal seams in corners and rounded areas of a log house
	The caulk is triangular in shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm	Tool for forming even rollers from twisted strands of compaction
	Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide	Widens narrow gaps, making it easier to fill with insulation
	Wooden hammer	Used for filling the seal with wooden caulks

The caulking blades should not be sharp, otherwise when driving the material they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and be pulled back out of the seams.

Caulking materials

The following materials are used as inter-crown insulation:

• red and white moss;
• tow;
• felt;
• jute;
• flax wool

Type of material	Description
	Ecologically pure material, which has antiseptic properties. If you independently procure raw materials, the costs of insulating the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected in late autumn, when there are no snails and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted, lumps of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. There is no need to dry it too much, otherwise the stems will become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to make installation easier. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: difficult to find on the market, requires protection from birds, requires pre-treatment before installation
	Tow is suitable for the initial caulking of a log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality, it is divided into bale and roll (tape). Rolled fiber consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to stuff between the crowns. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Cons: labor-intensive installation, not aesthetic appearance seams after caulking.
	Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log houses. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and plant fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not allow odors to pass through, provides good noise insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and is environmentally friendly. Cons: susceptible to rotting, easily damaged by moths
	Traditional insulation materials are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is available in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, and also in the form of tape. Tape jute is soft and pliable, compacts evenly, and is used for both primary and repeated caulking. It is more convenient to use jute fibers and ropes after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, not damaged by moths and other insects, does not rot, and provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material cakes quickly, short service life.

Prices for tow

Primary caulking “stretched”

The whole process is divided into two stages - laying insulation between the logs during the construction of a log house and the caulking itself. The insulation is laid after installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.

Take a large bunch of moss and lay it in fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang down on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close together.

The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of equal thickness. The wood should not show through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It’s better to put in too much than not, because thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.

If you use tape insulation, installation is much easier and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples construction stapler. When the tape runs out, the new piece is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row around the perimeter is covered with insulation, the second crown is installed.

So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, and the walls can be caulked.

The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of a log house

It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then forming a roller out of it is much faster. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which promotes greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not sufficient to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After this, the thickened roller is driven into the gap.

If during the construction process insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It is necessary to apply it to the seams with the fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the required density; the material will not be able to be firmly fixed and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Edges that are too short are difficult to tuck, and therefore the quality of caulking will be poor.

1. The edge of the tape is laid on the ground near the corner of the log house and retreated along the wall, unwinding the roll. The material cannot be pulled, it should simply lie in an even strip on the ground. It is very important that the tape does not twist during the unwinding process. Having reached the second corner, the roll is also left lying, nothing is cut off yet.

   

2. Return to the beginning of the tape, take it by the edge and place it over the seam. Using a caulking blade, press the tape in the middle, leaving the edges to protrude by 5-7 cm. In this way, the entire inter-crown seam is passed.

   

   Insert insulation into the seam

3. Measure out another 25-30 cm of tape and only then cut it off the roll. This reserve will allow you to hammer the grooves more tightly without adding insulation.
4. Now, little by little, straightening and tucking the edges of the material, they begin to caulk the seam. The tape should completely disappear into the gap between the logs along with the reserve.

   

5. As a rule, one layer of tape is not enough for high-quality filling, so everything will have to be repeated two or even three more times.
6. The finished seam should protrude from the grooves no more than 3-4 mm and be of uniform thickness.

   

Prices for caulk

caulk

If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking is used “in a set”. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow and wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.

Start from the edge of the lower crown:

• clear the gap, removing loose chips and debris;
• they don't rewind a large number of cord, fold it into loops and push it into the gap with caulk;
• seal the loops first in the upper part of the gap, then in the lower part;
• put another strand on top, now without loops, and level it with a road maker.

Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The more densely the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, the seal can be pulled away by birds. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in exactly the same way.

To make the log house decorative, you can hammer a jute cord along the entire length of the seams.

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked separately after the work on the walls is completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.

Since the seams between the logs at the corners have a semicircular shape, you will need a curved caulk.

Step 1. The tape is positioned vertically. Take it by the edge, apply it to the corner seam and press it inward with caulk. They step back a little and drive the material into the gap again.

Step 2. As soon as the insulation has been secured a little, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and drive them deeper into the cracks.

Step 3. After filling and leveling the top seam, move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened and stretched a little so that it lies more evenly.

This is how the entire corner is sequentially compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy.

Video - How to caulk a corner of a log house

Caulking a log house with sealants

Caulking of log houses with special sealants, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing, is gaining popularity. If the log house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, and jute is laid as insulation between the crowns, you can only use sealant and a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Sealing of seams is carried out no earlier than shrinkage of the log house occurs.

Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris and wiped dry with a rag.

Step 2. A primer primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams using a brush or sprayer. If work is carried out in winter, the primer should be rubber-based, summer time- on the water.

Step 3. After the primer has dried, a rope of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.

Step 4. Apply sealant. They use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The last option is very easy to use: remove the tape from one side protective film, apply to the seam, press with your hand and roll with a roller.

Step 5. After sealing all inter-crown joints, remove the outer layer of film so that the sealant hardens. Finally, the joints are coated with colorless varnish or a tinting compound is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.

When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed and excess should be removed with a damp cloth.

If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps will form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed traditional way, after which the seams are sealed with sealant. After such treatment, there is no need for subsequent caulking.

Video - How to caulk a log house

High-quality caulking is one of the most important guarantees of its reliable thermal insulation. Neglecting this process is highly discouraged, because what is at stake is the comfort and healthy microclimate of the steam room. But how to properly caulk a log house in order to avoid even the possibility of the formation of voids, which can negate all the thermal properties of the structure? We will look into this in detail further: we will learn the features of materials for protecting a bathhouse - jute, tow and moss, we will get acquainted with the rules and technologies of caulking, and also watch a video of direct work with a log house.

Materials for caulking

Traditional materials for caulking timber baths are moss, tow and jute. Let us outline the main features of each of them.

• Moss. Environmentally friendly raw materials with high antiseptic qualities. Advantages: minimal thermal conductivity, high resistance to temperature changes, low cost. Disadvantages: the need for lengthy preparation for work. Purchased moss must be moistened and then dried before installation. If you collect the material yourself, you need to carefully sort it out to remove debris and soil, and also dry it.

Advice. There is no need to completely dry the moss, otherwise it will become brittle and completely unsuitable for caulking.

• Tow. Material with a base of soft but durable flax fibers. Advantages: low thermal conductivity, minimal tendency to electrify, high absorbency, quick drying. Disadvantages: complexity of installation and unaesthetic seams remaining after caulking.
• Jute. Thermal insulation material made of jute wood. Advantages: high strength, minimal hygroscopicity, inertness to rot, resistance to moisture, ease of installation. Disadvantages: rapid caking of the material and short service life.

Materials for caulking

General caulking rules

The main features of caulking baths made of timber:

• Caulking must be done twice: the first - either directly during the process of laying the timber, or immediately after assembling the frame of the building, the second - after the final shrinkage of the log house, that is, a year or two later.

Advice. If you carry out caulking after the construction of the bathhouse is completed, do it before exterior finishing object, since the sealing material will raise the frame by 5-7 cm.

• Insulation must be laid on each row of timber.
• Thermal insulation raw materials should protrude 5 cm beyond the boundaries of the log grooves on both sides of the log house.
• Caulking must be done both on the outside and on the inside of the walls of the bathhouse.
• The log house must be processed in a clear sequence: first, close the external voids around the perimeter bottom trim, then perform similar actions on the inside of the building; then go outside again and process the second crown of the frame - repeat the procedure from the inside. Using the same scheme, step by step, protect the entire internal and outer surface walls

Caulking process

Caulking technologies

There are two ways to caulk a log house – “stretch” and “set”.

The stretching technology is appropriate if the voids between the beams are very narrow - almost invisible. The material is laid as follows:

• form strands of insulation;
• lay the resulting strands across the fibers into the voids of the log house, pushing them with a wooden spatula;
• Tuck the edges of the material (about 5 cm) and use caulking to hammer them into the cracks.

If the voids between the rows of timber are deep and wide, it is advisable to use the “in-set” caulking technology:

• form from thermal insulation material long strands of at least 15 mm in thickness and wind them into a continuous ball;
• Gradually unwinding the ball, fill the voids of the log house with material, compacting it with caulk;
• To get aesthetic seams, carefully go over the material with a road worker.

Advice. Where the cracks are different sizes, gain the thickness of the filler by turning the strands or simply twisting them into loops. In this case, first close the upper part of the voids, and then the lower.

As you can see, caulking a bathhouse is a painstaking process, the success of which depends on several factors: the quality of the material, the technology of its installation and the sequence of work. To cope with the task and provide a steam room good thermal insulation, carefully consider each of the indicated nuances and be patient, because caulking cannot be rushed.

How to caulk a house made of timber: video

How to caulk a bathhouse: photo

A log bathhouse is a tradition that, even after several hundred years, has not lost its relevance. The tree has the most high level thermal insulation among building materials, while the weight of the log structure does not go beyond the permissible limit. The only drawback of this technology is the presence of gaps between the stacked logs.

When laying and adjusting logs between individual elements, horizontal through cavities will inevitably remain along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse, and before its operation it is necessary to caulk them.

To learn how to properly caulk a bathhouse, you need to understand all the intricacies of this matter. The process of caulking cracks itself does not contain any difficulties, however, there are several special points that need to be taken into account.

This article will describe step-by-step instruction and the main points on the topic - “how to caulk a bathhouse with your own hands.” In addition to a description of the technology, it will also provide detailed information about what they use to caulk a bathhouse, since in this case right choice The material plays a decisive role in the success of the entire process.

Selection of material

Forest moss is the most traditional material that our great-great-grandfathers used for caulking log houses. This is the most environmentally friendly material of all analogues used, since it is of natural origin, assembled by hand and is not treated with chemicals. It has bioactive properties - it does not grow moths and mold.

Moss is especially valued for its antiseptic properties - it does not rot even when exposed to high humidity. At the same time, moss caulking is not only not subject to rotting, but also protects nearby areas from damage, which is especially important.

Also, using moss as a material for caulking allows you to significantly save on the purchase of material, since it can be collected in the nearby forest with your own hands. Even if this is not possible, its price in stores is quite affordable. Natural moss is the most rational decision The question is, what is the best way to caulk a bathhouse?

The most common material for log caulking due to its cost, but flax has the lowest quality characteristics. Before caulking a bathhouse with flax, you should take into account that it contains practically no natural antiseptics - therefore, putrefactive bacteria, which damp wood contains in abundance, will quickly destroy the formed seam, after which nearby areas will undergo degradation.

It quickly deteriorates under the influence of high humidity - its service life is from 1 to 3 years, after which the seam begins to crumble. Insects love it - moths, beetles; in its raw state, mold and mildew quickly grow. Without chemical treatment, you may find a large number of insect larvae in it the next season of operation.

Note!
Some of the disadvantages of this material can be mitigated through chemical impregnation, but this will negatively affect the atmosphere of the bathhouse.

Of all the analogues used, flax can be called the most undesirable solution to the question: how to caulk a bathhouse?

IN Lately expert opinion on the question of what is the best way to caulk a log bathhouse? — is increasingly leaning in favor of jute fiber, which recently appeared on the domestic market.

And this is not without meaning - natural jute is a durable material containing a large amount of natural lingin, which gives it water repellent properties. Also, jute is much less damaged by insects than flax.

Note!
Not to be confused with jute felt, which contains a certain proportion of flax, and accordingly all its negative qualities are present.
It is quite simple to distinguish them from each other - 100% jute is gray in color.

Caulk

IN this process there is practically nothing difficult - the main thing is to choose the right material for sealing the seams. You will need a mallet ( wooden hammer) and a set of caulks. There are two technologies for caulking seams - stretching and tapping.

Stretch

• The insulation is pushed crosswise into the cavity with fibers; this is done either by hand or with caulk, depending on the width of the cavity. The material is hammered inside until about 4–5 cm of the insulation edge remains outside;
• Then a roller of the appropriate diameter is made from the insulation, which is wrapped into the remaining edge, after which it is hammered into the cavity using a caulking chisel;

Recruitment

• For this method the insulation must be twisted into strands like a rope, the diameter of which is selected based on the size of the cavity between the log house;
• The finished strands are pushed into the slot using a caulking chisel - first pushed top part, and then the bottom one. A road worker is used to level the seam;

• During caulking of cracks, the frame rises a little, and therefore it is necessary to hammer in each crack along the entire perimeter and only then move on to the next level, otherwise the bathhouse may “skew”;
  
• If it is necessary to free it so that the structure raised due to caulking does not damage the masonry.
  To do this, it is enough to free up space by a few centimeters;

Bottom line

Caulking a log house in a bathhouse is one of the simplest construction processes

Correct selection of material and our useful tips will help you carry out these manipulations without any difficulties. You can learn more clearly about the process of caulking a bath by watching the video in this article.