Cover the inside of a log bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands. Do-it-yourself finishing of the bathhouse with clapboard. How to cover a doorway with clapboard

Finishing a steam room with clapboard is the most environmentally friendly way to arrange it

For the steam room in the bathhouse the only suitable material arrangement internal space is a wooden lining. This is due to its environmental cleanliness, which is so important for bathhouses and saunas. But not everyone knows how to properly line a steam room with clapboard. And it is precisely about the literacy of work that should lead to a high-quality result that we will talk in this article.

How to choose a lining so you don’t regret it later

First of all, you need to decide on the type of material. On the market building materials presented big choice. Therefore, the question arises - which lining is better for a steam room?

Classification of lining by type

Wood panels are classified according to the following parameters: profile type and class. Wood lining is a simple way to imitate the surface of a timber. It is made not only from wood, but also from plastic and other materials.

But, for obvious reasons, the instructions for PVC panels does not allow the use plastic panels in rooms with high temperatures, which can lead to their deformation and the release of fumes harmful to health.

Eurolining - for ease of installation, it is equipped with characteristic recesses located longitudinally on the underside of the panel. These recesses provide ventilation to the surface finished with the material and serve to drain moisture. Eurolining is most often used for finishing external surfaces;
with an outwardly convex profile. This type of board is used more often than other types by those who are faced with the question of what clapboard to cover the steam room with. This popularity is explained by its high aesthetics. This material is a reliable imitation of round timber and gives the bathhouse an attractive appearance.

Division of lining by quality

Wooden lining is also usually divided into 4 classes.

They differ in the number of surface defects per unit area:

“Extra” class implies the complete absence of any visible flaws (surface darkening, knots, etc.). Covering the steam room with clapboard of this class will provide an ideal surface;
On class “A” panels, slight darkening is allowed. In addition, on such a lining there may be no more than two bitches per linear meter of material. The size of these knots should not be larger size match head;
Requirements for class “B” material allow for the presence of material per linear meter no more than three knots. In addition, stains are possible on the entire surface of such lining;
Class “C” is represented by the lowest quality, in terms of appearance, material in this segment. Its surface may contain various types of defects - from colored stains and knots various sizes to the holes. That's why this type of material is usually used for constructing closed structural elements.

You can choose a material that is suitable for all parameters based on the above data. Of course, it is preferable to use eurolining of the best “extra” class, but its price is quite high.

Professionals say that decorating a steam room in a bathhouse does not necessarily require the use of the highest class material and it is quite possible to limit yourself to purchasing, for example, “B” class lining.

Surface preparation

For installation, you first need to prepare the material and surface. Before processing the lining in the steam room, its base surface needs careful preparation. Preparation is necessary for high-quality fastening material and in order to exclude various negative manifestations of the impact high humidity and high temperature.

Let's get started:

We remove protruding elements from the surface (decor, lighting etc.). After this, we carefully check the walls for potholes and cracks. If there are any, we eliminate them. It is necessary to seal even small cracks, because they will disrupt the thermal insulation of the steam room and will increase over time from exposure to the extreme environment characteristic of this room;

After filling the cracks, we check the evenness of the surfaces. This is best done using a laser plane builder. If the wall surface is characterized by a noticeable amplitude, then they need to be leveled using wooden spacers;
Next, we clean the surfaces of various formations (fungus, plaque, mold, etc.). This is no less effective than soaking the lining in the steam room with an antiseptic. Although impregnation of the material with an antiseptic is also required, since the bathhouse is a room in which the humidity is significantly higher than normal;
On next stage lay an additional layer of thermal insulation material. In this case, thin insulation materials, which are usually sold in rolls, are better suited.

Material processing

When arranging a bathhouse, many people ask a reasonable question: is it necessary to treat the lining in a steam room? It is worth noting that this is simply necessary. But it is permissible to use only substances specially designed for this purpose to treat wood in a steam room.

Important! Varnishes should not be used for processing, since at high temperatures they will emit an unpleasant and harmless chemical odor.

Nowadays it has become widely popular protective agent for wood EUROTEX-SAUNA. It is based on an acrylic composition, supplemented with an antiseptic and a special wax that protects the wood from high humidity. The use of this makes it possible to significantly extend the service life of wood.

In addition, this composition does not hide the pattern natural wood, creating a completely colorless coating. You can see photos of rooms whose wood has been treated in this way. The composition of the product does not include organic solvents. This allows for use in enclosed spaces;

It should also be noted the impregnations of both “U-409” and Supi Saunasoja (). These compositions are designed specifically for use in baths. Such compositions form a colorless, resistant film on the wood, making it easy to wash the surface of the lining and protect the material from temperature changes.

Before covering the lining in the steam room with any composition, you should consult with specialists (sales consultant hardware store). The building materials market today is very dynamic and regularly offers new high-quality protective materials. In addition, you need to correctly compare these products with the type of wood being processed.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Of course, not all those who set out to create a bathhouse have a clear idea of how to cover a steam room with clapboard. Therefore, it would be logical to present detailed instructions compiled by experienced craftsmen.

So, now there are four main methods of fastening the lining:.

Method one

The proposed method will ensure high-quality and fastest possible lining of the steam room. In addition, the use of this method will make it possible in the future to dismantle the lining without significant effort if, for example, some part of the material is damaged or deteriorated.

In a special groove fixed on base surface panel, the next panel is attached;
Special clamps (clasps) are placed on the inner protrusion;
These clips are secured to the sheathing with galvanized nails or screws;

Fastening the panels can only be done by completely fixing the adjacent elements;
If necessary, the last of the mounted panels is trimmed and fastened in the same way as the previous ones.

Second method

This method is most convenient for those who decide to do the installation themselves; in addition, it is the most a budget option. Using a finisher allows you to protect panels from damage during installation

Professional advice: it is more convenient and effective to make precise and infrequent blows with a hammer, and not to make frequent blows, as inexperienced, novice builders do.

The main disadvantage of this method is the large percentage of material damage that occurs due to inaccurate or very strong impacts.

Third method

This method is usually used when installing lining on seats and shelves:

A hole is drilled in the panel for the screw head (the depth of the hole should be approximately equal to half the thickness of the panel);
Then screws are screwed into the board;
The holes made are closed with a pin made of wood;
Then the surface is sanded. This method is convenient to use when installing elements completing the structure where fasteners are open.

If you still have questions, watch the training video at the end of the article. This material will help you understand the nuances of the method in more detail.

Fourth method

This method is suitable for installing exclusively old-type panels:

Holes for screws are drilled in the panels;
The chamfer of the hole is countersunk to fit the screw heads;
The screws are screwed into the board flush with the panel.

conclusions

We briefly introduced you to the installation of lining. Based on the information provided, you can answer basic questions on this topic. For example, which lining is better for a steam room and in what case. And everything else, of course, will determine your desire to do quality work.

The choice of facing materials is significant. But if we are talking about such a specific “object” as a bathhouse, then upon closer examination there are not so many options. And this mainly applies only to the types of panels, since both experts and land owners agree that The best decision for finishing - wooden lining. Let's consider all the nuances of finishing the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard.

The concept of do-it-yourself always means a simple tool ( household level), available technology and inexpensive materials. This is where the author proceeds. Let's start with the preparation stage for finishing the bath.

Type

In terms of ease of installation, it is advisable to focus on Euro class lining. It differs from traditional designs in the groove parameters. What is the advantage of finishing a bathhouse with this board?

The so-called “comb” is longer, therefore, even with temperature deformation (and it is inevitable, especially in a steam room), there will definitely be no gaps between the panels.
The presence of special (compensation) channels on the wrong side of the lining contributes to natural ventilation(increases its efficiency) under the finish, initiates the removal of condensate and prevents cracking of the boards due to some deformation during temperature changes.
Another advantage noted by users is that Euro lining from a well-known manufacturer is necessarily impregnated at the manufacturing stage. From the author’s point of view, this will have to be done one way or another. But in relation to the Euroboard, you can do everything necessary using a simplified method. This means saving some money on medications and time additional processing you will need much less.

Variety

According to this criterion, excessive savings are not advisable - only “Premium”, “Extra”, “Prima” (highest) or A (first). And that's why. In lower grades, defects such as cracks, knots and a number of others are allowed. The difference is in their parameters and quantity per unit area. But, under conditions that are typical for any bathhouse (changes in humidity and temperature, their high values, especially in a steam room), the same knots can simply fall out over time, and cracks can “spread.” And then you will have to do repairs, which means spending money.

Breed

A bathhouse is several rooms. Coniferous lining is not suitable for a steam room - when the wood is heated, it releases resin. Therefore, only boards from deciduous trees. For other rooms - at the discretion of the owner. Professionals recommend focusing on the following breeds for a steam room:

Linden. Perhaps the most used lining in baths. Its main advantages are the strength of the material combined with ease of cutting and processing, beautiful structure, noble shade. It is generally accepted that linden gives off positive energy to the outside, so it is the best choice for a bath.

aspen. This lining is somewhat “softer”, since the wood is less dense. The advantages of this wood are that it is easy to care for, over time the board gains strength, and the lining made from it looks very attractive. For those who are interested in bioenergy issues, we can add that it literally pulls out all the “negativity” from us.

alder. The price for such lining is higher than for aspen and linden, but it is worth it. The main advantage is the tannins contained in wood. It is well processed and practically does not conduct heat. For a steam room, the quality of the board is very important.

It makes no sense to consider such species as abashi, ash, oak, hemlock and a number of others - lining made from this wood is quite expensive. But if financial opportunities allow, you should pay attention.

For all other rooms it is better to purchase coniferous lining. In principle, there is no need to process it, since by definition it is protected from rotting by the resin contained in the structure. Is it purely symbolic, for “prevention” (implies de-resining the wood). If you add pleasant aroma, exuded coniferous tree, variety of shades, beautiful structure and ease of cutting, then such lining for all rooms of the bathhouse, with the exception of the steam room, is an excellent choice.

Lining quantity calculator

Drawing up a finishing scheme

This must be done for two reasons:

The drawn up drawing will help determine the required volume of lumber purchases. The lining is mainly sold in samples 3 m long. Naturally, during the installation process the panels will have to be sawn, adjusted, and somehow combined individual fragments. If you buy wood “by eye,” the costs will be higher and there will be a surplus. A thrifty owner does not act this way.
It is the diagram that will help you understand how best to arrange the lining in the bathhouse (over the entire area or in a separate room). There are several options, although two are considered the main ones. And on the question of which one is preferable, even experts do not have a consensus. Consequently, you will have to decide on your own, taking into account the dimensions of the room, its configuration and “filling” (furniture, household appliances, and so on).

Vertical fastening of boards

Proponents of this scheme highlight the following advantages:

Installation finishing board Produced quickly due to the simplicity of the technology.
Splashes of water and condensation do not flow into the cracks, but move down.
With this method of installing the lining, the most efficient circulation is achieved air flow(due to channels on the wrong side), which rush from bottom to top.
When applied to a steam room, this finishing allows for maximum heat accumulation in the room.

Fastening the boards horizontally

Those who defend this particular method of laying lining use the following arguments:

The lining is attached upward with a “tenon” (protrusion), therefore, water will not linger between the panels.
Air circulation will not be reduced, as it is facilitated by the orientation of the slats load-bearing frame(vertical position).
Practicality. This argument is very impressive if you take into account the specifics of rooms with high humidity. Mostly dampness accumulates at a level close to the floor. This means that the bottom will rot more intensely. In this case, when installing the lining vertically, you will have to change all the boards, and when installing horizontally, only a couple of the bottom panels.
Temperature changes cause the boards to begin to deform. This is especially noticeable when they are installed vertically.

It turns out that in a steam room it is better to place the lining horizontally. But in other rooms, baths are at the personal discretion of the owner, taking into account the peculiarities of their design. This includes the “filling”, the overall design, and much more – there are no limits to the home craftsman’s imagination.

There is also a diagonal installation of the lining. It looks impressive, nothing more. In practical terms, fastening the boards in this way does not provide any advantages. And this despite the fact that it is quite difficult to install them using this method with your own hands. Even experienced craftsmen spend a lot of time on this. It is associated with the obligatory accuracy of cutting samples and their proper fitting in place.

Interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboard - work procedure

Doing it yourself also means freedom of choice - tools, techniques, the same scheme, drugs, and so on. It will be much more useful to dwell on the features of the stages of work.

Preparing the base

Much depends on whether the bathhouse is new or built a long time ago, and the decision to finish it with fittings was made much later. The reader will determine for himself what he needs to do.

Cleaning up. The task is to identify existing defects during a surface inspection and outline ways to eliminate them, as well as decide what will be needed for this.

Repairing detected damage. For example, if the bathhouse is a log house, then it is very likely that you will have to remove fungus, bleach the wood and impregnate it with special compounds. In a building made of brick or cellular concrete, cracks may be found that need to be repaired.

Treatment. Depending on the material of the walls, they must also be coated with an appropriate preparation. Why, if they are not made of wood? You won’t be able to do everything with your own hands, absolutely competently. Practice shows that the formation of condensation on the walls is a common phenomenon when self-finishing. This means that it (and the fungus that accompanies dampness) will gradually move onto the insulation and the lining itself.

Traditionally used impregnations in this case (for wood, concrete) are ineffective for one reason - the short duration of action. Experienced craftsmen advise covering brick and reinforced concrete with PVA putty. It sets firmly, forms an impenetrable layer and lasts for at least 5 years. But for wooden bath– not an option, since it will stop “breathing.”

Waterproofing

Even if the walls are treated with putty, this layer should not be neglected. Moreover, P/E film is cheap, and its sheets (with overlap) can be fixed with the slats of the supporting frame. The joints are sealed with construction tape. Everything is quite simple and fast.

Installation of supporting frame

Slats – only wooden; The metal profile is not installed under the lining. The explanation is simple - the numerical value of the expansion coefficient of the mating materials should be approximately equal (ideally identical).
There is no need to skimp on bars - expensive, but straight ones are better. Problems will arise with the “slab”, since it will not be possible to lay wooden lining on an uneven base. The reason is the hardness of the material; dry wood (and other wood is not mounted during finishing), unlike plastic, does not bend.
How to install the grille depends on the location of the panels. When fastening the lining vertically, the slats are fixed horizontally, and vice versa. It's clear. Another thing is how to choose frame parameters. It all depends on whether a layer of thermal insulation will be installed or not. In the first case, you will have to provide a counter grille, otherwise high-quality air circulation under the finish will not be achieved. In some rooms, insulation may not be needed (warm climate, thick walls, external thermal insulation). Then the thickness of the frame slats can be reduced; leave only a small gap between the lining and the walls.
Fixation is as rigid as possible. But not nails. This type of fastener easily splits wood, especially dried wood. If you use it, then only special ones, anchor ones, with preliminary drilling of the slats.

At this stage, you should immediately lay (arrange) a number of communications:

Electrical/wiring. But only in a sleeve, and a metal one (corrugated). The wire (cable) must have moisture-repellent insulation.
Ventilation ducts. It’s easy to install the segments with your own hands metal pipe or corrugations (section 80 - 100 mm) passing through the walls. At the top - at a level of 15 - 20 cm from the ceiling; below – 20 (±5) from flooring. And preferably closer to sauna stove. It is also necessary to provide dampers so that it is possible to regulate the intensity of air exchange.

Internal insulation

This process should be approached rationally. If the decision has been made, then how exactly to create the thermal layer? For the steam room best option– penofol with foil coating. It is placed under the sheathing with the metallized side facing the inside of the room (to effectively reflect IR rays).

In other rooms (if insulation is required) you can limit yourself to mineral wool. Considering that this is a bathhouse and the layer is internal, it is advisable to purchase the “eco” modification, as the most “environmentally friendly” material.

The slabs (rolls) are laid in cells between the slats. Since the cotton wool is elastic, after straightening it is securely held without additional fixation. But provided that the diagram of the supporting frame is drawn up taking into account the size of the samples!

Vapor barrier layer

Many articles on this topic indicate the same film. There is some inaccuracy here. Films are available in various designs. Conventional (solid) insulation is not suitable for vapor barrier, as it does not allow air to pass through. Therefore, only special modifications (with microscopic holes) or appropriate membranes are a fairly large choice.

After installing this layer, as noted above, the counter batten slats (to create ventilation gap). Fastening the material to wood with staples (using a construction stapler).

Directly finishing the bath

If the lining is from a well-known manufacturer, then instructions are always included with the product. But even in its absence, it’s not difficult to figure out how to join the boards. There are protrusions, grooves - everything is very simple. Where to start the assembly is also unimportant, since thinner vertical slats are installed in the corners. Or corner profiles. The decorative component comes in second place here. The main function of these elements is to prevent water from flowing into the joints of the panels in the corners of the room. The most important thing is how to correctly attach the finishing board.

Be sure to “recess” the hardware into the wood. Therefore, chamfers are made in the lining. Otherwise, when heated, you can get burned on them. And from an aesthetic point of view, they do not add any attractiveness to wooden trim.
Any metal rusts in damp conditions. And this “spreads” onto the tree and appears in the form of red stains and spots. Therefore, only galvanized fasteners.
Another nuance - what to use? Self-tapping screws, screws, that is, anything that grabs tightly, is not suitable for fixing the lining. The reason is the same - temperature expansion. To fasten the finishing board you need to take small nails or special parts - staples, clamps (available for sale).
Fastener locations must be sealed. The caps are covered with a primer (of a shade corresponding to the wood) or miniature plastic plugs. They can also be purchased at any furniture store and are inexpensive.

When joining the boards, it is necessary to achieve their maximum adjacency, and then move them apart somewhat (by 2 - 3 mm). For what? Thermal expansion is one thing. But we should not forget that the lining will gradually accumulate moisture, which is inevitable even with regular ventilation and drying of the bathhouse. This means that the boards will swell somewhat.

Ceiling cladding is a separate issue. You need to start the interior decoration of the bathhouse with it. What are the nuances?

Firstly, brackets for fixing the boards are not suitable here, since under the weight of the lining they will easily come out of the wood. This means only clamps or nails.
Secondly, installation is carried out only from the door (in this case, the visual effect matters).
Thirdly, the lining is positioned so that there is a gap of at least 4.5 (±0.5) cm between the ends of the boards and the wall. The reason is that all the heat collects under the ceiling, therefore, it is there that the boards undergo maximum expansion.

In conclusion, it should be noted that lumber, regardless of the degree of industrial drying, species and grade, must be processed before being used for its intended purpose. Since we are talking about a bathhouse, the compositions need to be selected wisely, taking into account the structural features. Special attention attention should be paid to the lining for the most “problematic” room - the steam room.

All decorative elements, various slopes, planks and so on are attached in the same way - with hardware. You cannot plant them on glue. Otherwise, in the process of deformation of the wood, the entire finish will begin to warp.

A wooden steam room is the dream of every homeowner. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is the simplest and most affordable way arrange a sauna in traditional style, while meeting all the requirements of SNiP.

General information

Saunas made of logs and timber are especially popular due to the properties of wood to retain moisture and steam. Russian steam room is perfect combination prices and quality: wood has always been available material for construction, and its steam emission is much higher than that of stone or brick. If earlier construction traditional bath From start to finish it was made of untreated wood, but now craftsmen prefer to erect the building itself from brick or foam blocks, covering them from the inside with clapboard or boards.

Photo - log steam room

Advantages use of lining in bath lining:

Availability of material. Wood panels are cheap and practical and come in a variety of sizes, colors and thicknesses;
By the walls covered wood panels, excellent heat transfer performance. Internal lining baths must not only resist the constant aggressive effects of moisture and steam, but also retain a certain amount of heat in their pores;
High-quality lining prevents the formation of fungus and mold on the walls. The panels are made according to special technology ensuring normal air circulation.

At the same time, wooden steam room there are certain disadvantages. Firstly. She has high level fire hazard. Wiring and open sources of fire can cause a building fire. Secondly, the lining has a short service life relative to logs and beams - 50 years. For comparison, steam rooms made of solid logs can last up to a century.

Photo - clapboard bathhouse

Tree species

To line a bathhouse with eurolining or classic panels, you must first select the right material. The durability of the finish and the quality of the steam room itself depend on the choice of lining. Coniferous species (pine, larch) are ideal for the steam room; linden, oak and other leafy trees are ideal for the shower room and dressing room. Let's consider properties of some rocks:

Oak. Flexible and durable, it perfectly resists mold and mildew, allows the walls to pass oxygen normally, but at the same time retains steam well;
Linden. Known for its healing properties. When warming up, a linden board steam room begins to emit a pleasant aroma, which helps in the treatment of various diseases of the upper respiratory tract. The advantages of the breed also include low density and lightness. In addition, linden does not heat up even at high temperatures, you can touch the walls without fear of getting burned;
Siberian and European larch. It has excellent durability, does not deteriorate from exposure to moisture and steam, and acquires a deep dark shade over time. When heated, it aromatizes the room with a smell similar to the aroma of pine;
Cedar. It is mainly used for finishing a shower room or dressing room, as it gets very hot and deteriorates from constant exposure to steam. Has cleansing and antiseptic properties;
Pine is not used for finishing the steam room, because when heated, resin begins to release from the wood. It is used as cladding for showers and rest rooms. Spruce has similar properties.

In addition to the type of tree, you need to know what there are different type linings. Manufacturers produce extra class, categories A, B, C. Extra - smooth and even, without any flaws, with good density and thickness. The highest quality, but expensive option. As an alternative - category A. It may have slight roughness on its surface, almost unnoticeable during operation; 1-2 knots are allowed on the surface of the board. B - slightly inferior in quality; such lining may have from 4 to 6 knots, significant roughness and even cracks. C is the lowest category. Such panels may show signs of shrinkage and even rotting; they are not used for internal finishing works.

Photo - steam room lining

Bath decoration wooden clapboard can be performed with boards with different profiles: “Euro”, “Soft-line”, “Calm”, “Tongue and groove, chamfer”, “Tongue and groove”. The photo below shows the difference between them. Please note that eurolining differs from regular lining only in thickness, so in most cases, it is not advisable to overpay for it. In addition, prices for these types of boards vary (prices are indicated in USD per linear meter of pine paneling):

Video: how to finish a bathhouse with eurolining

Clapboard finishing

Technology of how to decorate the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard step by step with your own hands:

After completing the work, you can coat the lining with varnish or antiseptic and a few days after it has dried, the room can be used.

If for some reason you cannot carry out the cladding yourself, you can turn to specialists for help. Prices in cities Russian Federation for finishing a bathhouse with clapboards are approximately the same, the cost may depend only on the specific company and the scope of work. For example, in Samara square meter sheathing will cost 10–20 dollars, in Moscow a couple of units higher (up to 25).

The quality of steam and microclimate in this room directly depends on the finishing of the bathhouse inside. From all the materials offered by manufacturers, you can choose the best ones, which will not only ensure a high degree of aesthetics for walls and ceilings, but will also enhance the healing effects of bath procedures.

How and what is the best way to decorate a bathhouse inside

Arranging a bathhouse is not an easy task. In this building there are always several rooms, each of which performs its own function. Those materials that are optimal for a dressing room and rest room are not always suitable for finishing a steam room or washing room. Therefore, the owner of a bathhouse needs to know what the criteria for choosing the design and cladding of each room are.

The interior decoration of the bath can be made of the following materials:

lining;
planed boards;
salt panels;
brick;
porcelain stoneware;
natural and artificial stone;
plastic panels;
moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard and gypsum fiber board;
ceramic tile.

Listed are materials that can be safely used for cladding walls and ceilings of any room. The environmental friendliness and durability of these products have been tested by many years of practice. At making the right choice materials, finishing a bathhouse can be complicated by only one thing: not knowing how to lay, stick or mount them correctly.

Which lining to choose for a bathhouse

There are 4 types of lining, differing in the profile of the boards:

Eurolining.
Standard (otherwise called “peasant”).
Block house (imitation logs).
American (imitation timber).

"Calm";
"Soft Line";
"Classical".

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is a traditional, frequently used solution. It has gained so much popularity for many reasons. Lining is a natural and therefore environmentally friendly material that is beneficial to human and animal health. When choosing, it is extremely important to consider several points:

type of wood;
grade of material;
resistance to moisture;
coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Rules for choosing lining grades

Manufacturers offer several options for grading boards:

"A" - first;
“B” – second;
“C” – third;
"Extra" is the highest.

What “highest” is is not specified in the state standards. This indicator is not used anywhere in the world except Russia. Domestic manufacturers They often pass off grade “A” wood as “Extra”, and grade “B” boards as “A”. This is what caused the appearance of lining on the market premium. Recommendations for choosing grades are as follows:

the interior decoration of the bathhouse can be made of second-grade boards;
For rooms with high humidity, the presence of rot and wane in the wood is unacceptable.

Rules for visual inspection of boards and assessment of their condition

The following must be taken into account:

Pay attention to the quality of the chips. The boards must have a flat and smooth surface. This directly affects the economic benefits of finishing work. If the front side of the lining is rough, finishing will be complicated by the increased consumption of antiseptic and paint materials.
The moisture content of the boards should not exceed 12-16% (GOST requirement). It is visually impossible to determine whether the material offered by the manufacturer meets this criterion. Therefore, it is necessary to request documents confirming compliance with GOST. If the wood is not dry enough, there is a high risk that it will suffer during the first years of operation of the finished premises.
Pay attention to the depth and evenness of the groove. These indicators determine the quality of installation. And it doesn’t matter how it will be done: using clamps, nails or staples. If the groove is shallow, there will be nothing for the fasteners to grab onto.

An important characteristic of boards is width. Often there are lamellas on sale that are wider than standard ones (more than 88 mm) and managers assure that it is more profitable to buy such lining. This is not true, since such a finish will be less durable and there is a high risk of wide boards bending when exposed to moisture.

Criteria for selecting wood species

The finishing of the walls and ceilings of the bathhouse can be made of the best types of wood.

Material	Advantages	Flaws
Spruce	Low price, wood does not darken over time, small number of knots, low degree of resin, dries quickly. Finishing with second grade boards is acceptable	Often leads
Pine	It is a source of phytoncides that heal the body, is resistant to moisture, and has low thermal conductivity. It is recommended to finish with first grade boards	Gnarly, resinous
Aspen	An excellent antiseptic, highly resistant to moisture, has a pleasant color tint, and is not tarry. Finishing steam rooms with aspen is a recognized option for arranging these rooms	Possible hidden rot
Linden	Low price, structural integrity, small number of knots	The softness of wood, which complicates the installation process and operation
Alder	Beautiful texture and color, high moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, strength. Alder finishes are suitable for recreational areas	High price
Larch	The best moisture resistance among other types of wood, low thermal conductivity, impressive texture, small number of knots. Larch finishing is suitable for any bath room	High price
Cedar	The best indicators of therapeutic and health characteristics, high strength, hardness, high-quality noise absorption, not susceptible to rot and insects. Cedar finishing is the best solution for steam rooms and relaxation rooms	High price

Stages of covering a bathhouse with clapboard

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard is no different from a similar process for finishing facades and premises for any other purpose. To complete the task without errors, simply follow our installation instructions.

How to attach lining in a bathhouse

Installation of lining in a bathhouse begins with choosing a method for attaching the boards and preparing the tools necessary to perform this work.

The following options are used:

Finishing method hidden fastening linings. Claimers are used. This hardware, which one side is inserted into the groove of the board, and the second part, protruding from the groove, is attached to the sheathing posts. For this purpose use: – nails (included in the package of clamps) and a hammer or nailing gun; – flat head screws and a screwdriver; – galvanized metal staples and an electric construction stapler.
Finishing method open method fastening the lining. With this installation method, galvanized finishing nails are used, which are driven directly into the lining boards with its front side. Against the background of wood texture and knots, fasteners are invisible. After the paintwork is completed, they are barely visible.
Stages of attaching lining to clamps. Using a tape measure, pencil and building level Mark the location of the first lamella on the sheathing posts. Turn the board with the groove down and apply it to the sheathing, focusing on the previously made marks. Place the clamp into the groove of the lining and attach it to the sheathing post using the chosen method: with a bracket, screws or nails. Repeat the process at all points where the boards intersect with the sheathing.

Lathing for lining in a bathhouse

Fastening the lining is possible either directly to the wall or to the sheathing. In the first case, impeccable flatness of the base surface is required, which is rare. Therefore, clapboard finishing is traditionally done on the sheathing.

For its installation, well-dried wooden blocks with a cross section of 30x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 40x50 mm, 50x50 mm are used. The parameters of the racks are selected depending on the area of the wall. If it is small, then bars of a smaller cross-section are suitable. Finishing large areas requires thick and durable lumber.

If necessary, thermal insulation materials can be laid between the sheathing posts: mineral wool slabs, penofol, sheets of expanded polystyrene. Most often, the first option is chosen, because polystyrene foam, when exposed to high temperatures, begins to release styrene that is harmful to health.

High-quality interior finishing is important in a bathhouse. It is unacceptable to use materials that may reduce the usefulness of hygiene procedures.

The stages of installing the sheathing for the lining are as follows:

Calculation of the amount of lumber. In order to properly make the sheathing, you need to draw up a drawing of it. It is important to maintain the recommended pitch between the posts: 45-60 cm. The thinner the selected lumber, the smaller the distance between the bars should be. The lathing consists of horizontally laid upper and lower guides and vertical posts located between them. Draw up a drawing for each wall, indicate on it the dimensions of the room and calculate the required amount of lumber.
Wood preparation. The purchased lumber is brought into the room and left there for 1-2 days. During this time, the wood will have time to “acclimatize” and gain desired temperature and humidity. After which, each block is covered with a layer of antiseptic on all sides and ends. This task can be accomplished in two ways: – cover all surfaces with a paint brush; – prepare a container of such length that you can pour an antiseptic into it and immerse the bar in it.
Leave the lumber to dry for the period recommended by the manufacturer of the antiseptic solution.
Marking the walls. For execution marking works you will need: – a plumb line; – construction bubble or hydraulic level; – roulette; - pencil; - construction square.
Using the listed tools, marks are made on the walls in accordance with the previously drawn up drawing. In this way, the location of all the sheathing bars is found.
Installation of sheathing. Wooden blocks are attached to the walls in any convenient way: using nails or self-tapping screws. The distance between fixation points should not exceed 40 cm.

Fastening the slats

There are several ways to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard. The slats can only be laid horizontally or diagonally. It is also possible to combine these techniques. In this way, they create the design of the room that is most pleasant and beneficial for the owner.

It should be noted that when installing boards diagonally, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the sheathing posts. This method of attaching lamellas entails a greater consumption of materials than with traditional horizontal laying of lining. Finishing walls with diagonal direction of the boards is complicated by the greater labor intensity of the work.

How to cover the walls in a bathhouse

The interior decoration of a bathhouse can be done not only with clapboard. The list of materials suitable for this purpose is wide. An effective technique is finishing with salt panels and blocks. This is an expensive material, so it can be used for installing partitions or panels.

Salt slabs have high heat resistance, but are not recommended for installation in rooms with high levels of air humidity. As a result, this finish is suitable for rest rooms and Finnish saunas with dry air. A cozy and comfortable atmosphere can be created by facing with salt slabs in combination with their lighting, internal or external.

The panels are attached to the walls using a two-component adhesive based on caustic magnesite. If small blocks are purchased, they can be glued to inexpensive ones. This finish will be more economical, but no less durable and aesthetically pleasing. Salt panels can be attached to any surface. These facing blocks are used if the bathhouse is built of brick, wood, concrete, plastered, lined with gypsum fiber board or gypsum board.

You can't help but pay attention to the ceiling. It is sheathed with materials that harmoniously combine with the walls. The bathhouse cannot boast of high ceilings, because they are not needed. For this building, rapid heating of the premises is important, which is possible with low walls.

If the bathhouse is built of timber or logs, the ceilings in the rooms do not need to be tiled, but rather covered with varnish or a tinting compound. In this case, it is necessary to perform high-quality insulation from the attic.

If the bathhouse is built of brick, foam or aerated concrete, the ceiling can be finished with the same facing materials, as the walls. Methods for facing horizontal and vertical surfaces are the same. But, before attaching wooden slats or other material to the ceiling, you need to make sure the strength of the load-bearing surface.

Headlining

The decoration in the bathhouse will be disharmonious if the walls and ceiling are covered with materials that are identical in appearance but of different quality. This method is used only for the sake of economy. High ceiling can hide the difference in color shade or other surface features. But the bathhouse is traditionally built with a height of no more than 280 cm.

In order for the design of the room to correspond to the mood evoked by hygiene and relaxation procedures, environmentally friendly and aesthetically attractive materials are used in the cladding. If the walls are covered with wooden slats, most often the ceiling is made in the same way. The installation rules are the same. A sheathing is also built on the ceiling, having previously drawn up a drawing of it. The lamellas are attached to the bars using the same method as for wall cladding.

Decorating the rest room

The bathhouse is always perceived as a place of relaxation from everyday worries. Each room in it is intended for its own purposes. The name of the relaxation room speaks for itself: this is where you relax after water procedures. Therefore, it is important to create a cozy and relaxing environment in it.

Washroom finishing

Steam room finishing

Finishing steam rooms with natural stone is effective and beneficial in terms of heat capacity. This material can be combined with others. So, one wall can be faced with stone, and all the rest with wood. Artificial materials not used in the steam room. Natural stone heats up quickly, retains heat for a long time and gradually releases heat, which helps create an optimal microclimate for water procedures.

With the correct selection and installation of materials, the finishing of the bath will fully correspond to the purpose of each room.

It's hard to imagine a complete vacation in your own country house without visiting the bathhouse. Therefore, every owner of such a house tries to build it on his site. But in order for your stay in the bathhouse to bring as much joy and benefit as possible, it is necessary to competently carry out its interior decoration. The most suitable material for these purposes is lining made from various types of wood. The interior decoration of the bathhouse with clapboard allows you to create a favorable atmosphere of comfort and natural warmth for complete healthy relaxation of body and spirit. You can do the finishing work yourself, there is nothing complicated about it, the main thing is to know what and how to do, and also to understand a little about the properties of wood.

What kind of clapboard to cover a bathhouse

Decorating a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands begins with choosing wood. And before you cover the walls and ceiling in the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to decide on its type. After all, it depends not only on what kind of wood the lining will be made of, appearance walls, but also health-improving effects when visiting a bathhouse. In addition, the class of the lining and its profile are important.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: video

Today, deciduous and coniferous wood is used to produce lining. Depending on the room, the interior of the bathhouse is decorated with clapboards using different types of wood. For rooms with high temperatures, such as a steam room, the most suitable would be hardwoods. At the same time, recreation areas can be decorated with softwood paneling.

From hardwood use:

Oak. This type of wood is famous for its strength and flexibility. In addition, due to the presence of specific substances in the structure of wood, a bathhouse lined with oak clapboard will be protected from mold and rot. As a result, the air in the bathhouse will always be clean and fresh. At high temperatures, phytoncides are released from oak lining in large quantities, eliminating various pathogenic bacteria and unpleasant odors. The color of oak lining ranges from matte light to dark brown, and the surface itself is slightly rough to the touch and cannot be sanded to a perfectly smooth state. When processing oak, you must use a hard and sharp tool, otherwise you can damage the board.

Linden is one of the most suitable wood species for interior decoration baths She has pleasant smell, healing properties, low wood density and uniform structure. In a bathhouse decorated with linden clapboard, you can safely touch the walls even at very high temperatures without the risk of getting burned. Linden lining, even under conditions of extreme temperature operation and high humidity, retains its natural color. Processing linden lining is not particularly difficult, since the wood is soft and pliable.

Aspen. Due to its performance characteristics and natural qualities, aspen is an excellent choice as lining for a bathhouse. It has a pleasant color and is easy and simple to process. It has low thermal conductivity, which at high temperatures will protect you from burns when touching the surface. Aspen has excellent resistance to moisture, practically does not dry out or crack. Perhaps the only significant drawback is that the wood darkens very quickly, losing its natural color.

Alder. Like oak, this wood is saturated with tannins, which provides clean air in the bathhouse and protection from fungi and mold. When heated, alder releases substances that have a hemostatic and anti-inflammatory effect. Unlike oak, alder wood is easy to process.

Ash. This wood is somewhat inferior in density and strength to oak, but surpasses it in healing properties and the beauty of the cut. The color of ash lining is lighter and softer than that of oak. Ash is easy to process, has excellent flexibility, and does not crack.

From coniferous species use:

Cedar- one of the most valuable and beautiful wood species. As a lining for a bathhouse, cedar, like almost all coniferous woods, is best used for rooms such as a rest room or washing room. Cedar itself has a pleasant smell, antiseptic qualities, beautiful color, easy and simple to process. Emitted by cedar wood essential oils and resins promote relaxation and rest.

Larch. This conifer wood is famous for its strength, which is comparable to the strength of oak. Larch lining has low thermal conductivity, has a beautiful and pleasant shade, is resistant to high humidity conditions, and even at low temperatures emits a pleasant, unobtrusive and soothing aroma. Unfortunately, like oak, larch is quite difficult to process and requires certain skills in this matter.

Pine- the most common type of wood for lining. It is beautiful and easy to process, has a pleasant smell, but, unfortunately, pine can only be used in a bathhouse in rooms with a temperature no higher than room temperature. The reason for this is the resin secreted by pine, which is very sticky and can cause burns at very high temperatures. But in the washing room and rest room, pine will come in handy.

Spruce. Like pine, spruce has a beautiful color and a pleasant smell. Due to availability large quantity resins, it is best to use spruce lining in rooms where there is not much heat. The wood is soft and easy to work with.

It should be noted that when finishing a bathhouse with clapboards, you can combine different types of wood. This way you can get a unique healing effect and make unique interior. When finishing a bathhouse with clapboard, the price depends on the price of a particular type of wood. Thus, the most expensive variety is cedar, and the cheapest is pine.

Classification of lining

Having decided on the type of wood for finishing the bath, you can start purchasing it. And here you need to be especially careful. Firstly, because if you take the cheapest lining you can ruin the entire interior. Secondly, during its installation difficulties may arise due to the presence of knots and chips. To avoid such troubles, it is important to know the classification of lining and the types of its profile.

By class, the lining is divided into “Premium” (“Extra” or “0”), “A”, “B” and “C”.

Class lining "Premium" the most expensive. It does not contain a core, there are no knots or other wood defects. The color and texture are uniform.

Class lining "A" has no core, but may have 1 knot every 1.5 m, as well as a couple of cracks and resin pockets. The color and texture are uniform.

Class lining "IN" may contain up to 4 knots for every 1.5 m, a couple of through slots and resin pockets. Such lining will most likely have one or more spots of contrasting color, as well as various mechanical damage.

Class lining "WITH" the lowest quality. Contains many knots, chips, cracks and stains. This type of lining is the cheapest, and its use for lining a bathhouse will be inappropriate.

The lining is also divided into several types of profiles: "Euro", "Soft-line", "Calm", "Tongue and groove and chamfer along the length", "Tongue and groove along the length". In fact, lining marked “euro” differs from the usual one only in size and workmanship, and this directly affects its price. An important difference is the ergonomics of the eurolining. Its length, width and processing are specially selected in such a way as to reduce material consumption to a minimum. There are two more differences: the presence of a special groove for water drainage and an increased depth of the tongue-and-groove connection.

Installation options for lining

For finishing a bathhouse with clapboard, the instructions are basically the same for all its types, since the fastening of the planks occurs on wooden frame. As for the fastening methods and placement options for the planks themselves, there are several of them.

Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: photo

There are three main options for placing planks: horizontal, vertical, diagonal and combined. At horizontal In the option of placing the planks, the frame bars are attached to the wall in vertical rows and, as a result, will be perpendicular to the lining strips. At vertical When placing the lining, the frame bars are attached horizontally. For diagonal The layout of the frame also needs to be done diagonally, but so that the bars are perpendicular to the lining strips. The main three options for lining layout can be combined with each other, thereby making the interior more intricate and beautiful.

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard is done correctly only when it is placed vertically and diagonally. This is due to the increased level of humidity. With this layout option, water will not get caught between the slats, but will drain. Of course, for rooms where the humidity level is low, this condition is not so important. Therefore, they can be finished using any of the above methods.

Having decided how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, you need to choose the most convenient method of attaching the planks to the frame. There are only four of them: using a clamp, oblique nailing, direct nailing and through fastening with a plug.

Or clips are the simplest and most convenient, especially if paneling is being done for the first time. This method of fastening allows for quick and high-quality installation. Another undeniable advantage is the ability to dismantle the lining plank carefully and without damaging it. The clamps themselves are attached to the sheathing bars using nails or self-tapping screws.

Applying oblique driving of nails into the countersunk, namely, driving a nail into the groove of the plank and recessing it with a hammer, there is a risk of increasing the number of defective lining strips. This fastening method is quite complex and requires certain skills and experience. In addition, to fasten the lining in this way, you will need at least 6 nails per strip. And with large volumes of work, the risk of rejection only increases.

For driving a nail directly into a tenon strips must be purchased accordingly wood profile. Unfortunately, not any type of lining is suitable for this method. But if you managed to acquire Soft-line lining or regular Euro lining, then fastening is done as follows. A nail is driven into the tenon, which fits tightly to the sheathing, at a right angle and then recessed with a hammer. There is a risk of defects, but it is small compared to corner fastening.

Mainly used for seats and shelves. It is good because the self-tapping screw is directly screwed into the block. This leads to the appearance of holes on the surface of the lining, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. For this reason this method It is not recommended to use clapboard for covering walls and ceilings.

Covering the baths with clapboard

Carrying out work on finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is not particularly difficult. The whole process is divided into several stages and takes very little time. At the first stage, preparatory work. On the second, a wooden frame is installed. At the third stage, insulating materials are laid and lining strips are installed. The fourth stage is the final one, in which the surface of the lining is covered with a protective layer.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparation works. First of all, this concerns the surface of the walls and ceiling. If there are too large differences in them, more than 2 mm per 1 m, then they will have to be leveled with plaster or putty. To protect the bathhouse premises from the appearance of fungi and mold, the surface of the walls and ceiling is treated with special means. In the second place, all communications, electrical, water supply, everything that can and should be hidden behind the lining panels are laid. After which materials are purchased, namely lining, fasteners for it, wooden block, metal hangers, heat and vapor barrier materials. The lining itself is brought inside the bathhouse for two days and rests there, getting used to the microclimate of the room.

Installation of sheathing

For the sheathing we use a wooden block. Its cross-section is selected individually, based on the thickness of the insulation. In our case, this is a wooden block 20x50 mm. We cut bars into lengths of 1000 mm and 500 mm; if necessary, you can choose a different size ratio. This is done in order to secure the bars on the wall staggered, thereby making the entire structure more reliable. Now we mark places on the walls for installing metal hangers. The hangers will be arranged in rows, the step between the hangers will be 30 - 40 cm. The distance between each row will be 40 - 50 cm.

Important! All metal parts- hangers, screws, nails, etc., it is better to take them from galvanized iron. If you use regular ones, streaks of rust will appear on the wood over time. Frame bars, like some types of wood for lining, must be treated with a mold and mildew repellent.

Covering bathhouses with clapboard: photo instructions

Next, we drill holes, drive in dowels and attach the hangers. We attach the bars for the sheathing to the hangers. The lathing option depends on how the lining will be secured; the bars of one row themselves are attached at a short distance from each other. This is necessary to allow air to circulate between the rows. Around the windows and doorways The frame bars are attached vertically along the perimeter of the slopes at a distance of 30 mm from the edge.

Important! We start the first row of the sheathing with a long bar, the second - with a short one. The entire frame must be in the same plane, so each installed row is checked with a vertical level. At very large differences You can put a gasket under the bars.

Laying insulation

Before clapboarding the bathhouse completely, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation and vapor barrier. To do this, we lay between the rows of the frame thermal insulation material. Many people use it for these purposes mineral wool, but this material does not tolerate high humidity conditions. You can find others on the market, for example, foam glass. This thermal insulation material is not afraid of moisture and has excellent insulation and sound insulation properties, and, most importantly, does not emit at all harmful substances when heated. There is no need to lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the foam glass. But if you want to play it safe, you can. We overlap the vapor barrier sheets and glue them together with tape.

Installation of lining

Now you can start covering the walls and ceiling with clapboard. First of all, cut the strips to the required length. Then we carefully cut off the tenon from the plank that is installed first, and then install it in place. We start finishing from the corner. The first plank is installed with a cut into the corner and secured. For ease of installation we use clamps. The clamp itself is driven into the groove of the plank with a little effort and then fixed to the sheathing. We install clamps on each lathing strip. The next plank of the lining is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and lightly hammered through a wooden block so that it fits tightly into place, after which it is fixed with clamps. Further plating follows a similar algorithm.

The final stage of finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is applying a protective layer to the clapboard strips. These can be various oil compositions and waxes. You need to take care of the lining very carefully. Do not use abrasives or solvents. And if the board is severely damaged, it is better to replace it. Also, over time, the lining must be updated with a protective coating.