Door frames are important element in appearance doors. The platbands highlight and emphasize the door in the interior. Great importance depends on the angle at which they join: at an angle of 90 degrees or 45. In which cases one or another option is appropriate, we will analyze it in this short material.
The standard width of the platbands is 70 mm, but they can be wider. The shapes are divided into rounded, flat and embossed. According to the mounting method, conventional and telescopic.
Any platbands are joined at an angle of 45 degrees.
This classic version connecting the platbands to each other. For classic doors with curved lines in the design, this is the only option. With this method of installing platbands, cutting them at a given angle plays a very important role. The cut should be as smooth and clear as possible. If the walls are curved, then an inclination or offset in the cut will be required. In general, in the end there should be a perfect joint. Otherwise, gaps and chips will be very noticeable, especially on light-colored doors.
Only flat platbands are joined at right angles.
To install platbands at 90 degrees, only platbands specially made for this purpose are suitable. This means that the shapes of the joints of the platbands must be the same. For rounded or figured platbands, the shape of the cut differs from the shape of the side part. Moreover, even flat platbands have slight rounding at the corners. Therefore, the top casing should be thinner than the side ones so that it is slightly recessed. Otherwise, the end of the platbands will be exposed.
If the corners of the platbands are sharp, as for example on ProfilDoors doors, then such platbands are installed at right angles without adaptation. If the corners are rounded, then the craftsman will need to narrow the upper platband. Not everyone will take on this.
The door frames are installed at right angles in modern style with straight lines. The right angle of the platbands seems to complement the right angles of the door structure.
IN Lately Manufacturers began to produce flat platbands intended only for installation at right angles. This means that in a set of 5 trims for one door, one will be thinner than the rest. Installers need to be careful not to cut the thick side casing in half.
Doors, despite their apparent simplicity, are very demanding to install. The slightest mistake can lead to disastrous consequences. Wrong taken dimensions, the cuts made will not be able to be corrected, and you will have to do everything all over again using other materials. Cracks formed due to an erroneous sawing cannot be eliminated using sealant.
Even if this disguises external defects, the structure will not be strong due to a loose fit to the surface. As a result, the load on the bars increases significantly, and the service life of the door is reduced. In order to prevent such a situation, it is necessary to assemble the door frame with your own hands, strictly following the step-by-step instructions. It is important not only to perform all installation work correctly, but also to carry out all installation work very carefully and accurately.
The frame base must match the door parameters (width and height) in order to provide full coverage and support to the structure. An important nuance relative to the canvas is the purpose of the room for which it is intended. Because ventilation requirements will depend on this. In steam rooms and baths, doors must provide reliable thermal insulation, so the opening is sealed as tightly as possible.
The bathroom, on the contrary, needs to be well ventilated so as not to accumulate excess moisture and no mold appeared. Therefore, the gap between the frame and the door should be a little wider. Good ventilation is also required for rooms in which gas equipment is installed.
To provide reliable protection to prevent heat leakage, a rectangular frame is constructed from four bars, which will serve as a frame for the door. The vertical posts will become hinged and recessed elements, and the transverse ones will become the upper support and threshold.
For free movement of the door leaf, the gap between the door and the posts should be about 3 mm. In cases where air flow into the room is necessary, the box is assembled from three bars, and a gap of about 10–15 mm is made at the threshold site. A standard distance of 3 mm is left along the vertical posts and the lintel.
The box with the threshold assembly is slightly higher than without it. The difference is about 20 mm. It is important to take this nuance into account so that you do not have to shorten the door. Because it is possible to adjust the canvas only if it is made of wood.
The gap between the door frame and the opening must be at least 10 mm on each side so that the structure can be easily installed and fixed.
Required Tools
The door frame can be installed with your own hands using various instruments, many owners have some of them, but what is missing will have to be rented or purchased.
- Miter box. A device that allows you to cut timber at different angles.
- Pencil, tape measure, construction tape.
- Acrylic paint on wood.
- Polyurethane foam for sealing the box.
- Chisel for making cuts for hinges.
- Hammer, drill, screwdriver.
- Nail puller, crowbar, hammer. For dismantling work.
- Miter saw, hacksaw and utility knife.
- Building level.
Dismantling
If the doors are not installed in a new room, but the structure is replaced. Then perform the installation door frame you can do it yourself only after the old one is removed. The door frame is dismantled in the following order:
- The platbands are removed and the elements of the box are disassembled.
- Fasteners and anchor bolts are unscrewed.
- The strength of the opening is checked and, if necessary, it is strengthened.
It is worth disassembling the door frame very carefully so as not to damage anything and thereby increase the amount of installation work in the future. If it is necessary to replace the door frame, it is recommended to dismantle it in advance so that there is time to prepare the opening. It is almost impossible to remove the door frame without damaging it. Therefore, after removing old components, you will need to install new ones.
How to assemble a door frame?
The assembly diagram will help you make a door frame from blanks correctly.
The box must be enlarged with the help of extensions if the width of the wall is more than 70 mm, and platbands are installed on both sides.
If a door frame is being assembled from MDF, all fastening work must be carried out with preliminary drilling to avoid cracks and chips in the product.
How to file a door frame at 45 degrees?
Elements with a round cross-section are sawn at an angle of 45◦. In order to make the correct cut, use a miter box or miter saw with a rotating table.
Door frames can be assembled with your own hands without the use of special tools. In such cases, you can saw off the desired angle without a miter box, using a ruler and a protractor for marking.
During installation, the structure is secured using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle.
Assembling the box at an angle of 90 degrees
With this option, assembling the door frame is easy and quick.
- It is necessary to saw off the required size of the racks and the horizontal crossbar at a right angle.
- Select the extra part of the vestibule.
- Place the box elements on the floor, level them and secure them at the ends with self-tapping screws (2 each).
In order for all sides to remain parallel to the door frame, you can attach the door and check how it will stand in the opening. Specialists consider connecting the door frame at 90 degrees fast technology installation
Assembling a box with a threshold
There is no significant difference between installing door frames with and without a threshold. Thresholds have recently lost their relevance. But despite this, such a system has many fans. This is explained by the fact that it is stronger and more reliable than a structure without a lower cross bar. Such systems can withstand significant loads and are suitable for installing solid wooden doors. Thresholds are considered prerequisite for bathrooms. Regardless of what type of design is chosen, anyone can assemble an interior door frame.
- Vertical and horizontal planks are prepared in advance.
- Cut at 45 or 90 degrees.
- The prepared elements are placed on a flat surface.
- The racks and crossbars are alternately fastened using self-tapping screws.
How to install a door frame correctly?
The door frame is installed after preliminary checking that it matches the dimensions of the opening in the wall.
- If everything is suitable, the door frame is installed in the opening.
- Using a hydraulic level, check the verticality of the racks and the horizontality of the crossbars.
- Wedges (about 15 pieces) are installed along the entire perimeter of the structure. Door frame spacers add strength.
- Make markings for attachment points. Holes are drilled along it on the bars and walls. Many experts attach the door frame to the wall in the places where the hinges and the lock strike plate are located. This allows you not to compromise the integrity and appearance of the product.
- The door frame is fastened with anchor bolts, which are inserted into the holes and tightened with a screwdriver or wrench(depending on the type of fastener). The structure should be fastened very carefully.
- Screw on the hinges and hang the canvas. At correct installation opening and closing the door will be easy.
- The gap between the block and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam.
The lock's metal plate is installed at different stages: during assembly or when the structure is already secured. The second method will be more correct and accurate.
- Cover the doors and mark the location of the tongue or magnet with a pencil.
- Use a chisel or a feather drill to make the required hole. It doesn't need to be too deep, the main thing is that the tongue fits and holds the door.
- A sample is made according to the size of the counterplate and installed, securing it with self-tapping screws. There is no need to mount the element very deeply, this will ruin the appearance.
- The gaps are filled with sealant.
What else is important to know?
Not every person will be able to install a door frame efficiently the first time. But don't despair. Because many flaws can be eliminated.
- If there is an unsightly seam, you can close the joint between the laminate and the door frame with a plinth or a special flexible threshold.
- If the box does not fit into the opening, then the posts and crossbars can be trimmed a little.
- Platbands allow you to beautifully seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. If their width is not enough, you will have to plaster and decorate the gap.
- To install an interior door frame in a concrete or brick wall, it is impossible to do without a hammer drill. If you are installing an MDF door frame first on slats, use a drill to make holes and only then use a hammer drill.
- Attach the door frame to wooden wall much easier than other materials. In this case, a hammer drill for drilling holes is not useful. You just need to screw the door frame to the wall using anchors. The main thing to consider is that over time wooden buildings may cause significant shrinkage.
- To facilitate the installation process, special mounting systems door frames. Thanks to them, the structure can be placed in walls made of any material without using wedges and spacers. This kit includes hidden mounting fasteners, detailed step-by-step instructions and diagrams. Using the system, even a beginner can insert a door frame.
It will allow you to hide even significant construction defects that arose for a number of reasons - for example, after the “shrinkage” of the building or defects made during construction.
The shape of the platband can be almost any. But the most common forms of platbands are rounded, flat or figured (or, as they are also called, “carved” platbands, which are an exclusive material).
On the market today building materials a great variety of types of platbands made of any materials are provided - MDF platbands, veneered platbands, steel and aluminum platbands, PVC platbands. PVC platbands, by the way, are by far the most popular among buyers and the cheapest in price.
When choosing platbands, special attention should be paid to its quality of execution. In addition, all types of platbands are made to order. The cost is slightly higher than the market price - but the customer can be 100% sure of the quality of such platband and if any defect is discovered there will always be the opportunity to return it back. Since such masters value their reputation very much.
All types of platbands can be attached using screws, self-tapping screws, nails and special glue intended for this type of work. The installation of platbands must be done very carefully to avoid damage. If you are not sure that the work of installing the platband can be done yourself, then it is better to contact a specialist - a carpenter.
After the platbands are installed on windows or doors, they will give a finished look to the facade of the building or its interior decoration.
The trim for interior doors comes complete with the doors themselves, in some cases it comes separately, but is purchased in the same place as the doors. The color of the platband must completely match the color of the door leaf and door frame.
The casing consists of different materials mainly made of MDF and chipboard, as well as wood (solid or glued), covered with veneer, laminated film, varnish.
The casing comes in two types: semicircular and rectangular. The semicircular center is thicker than the edges; it narrows from the middle. Rectangular consists of right angles. The thickness of the middle and edges is the same. There are also patterned trims, as a rule, included in expensive interior doors. The minimum and main size (width) of the platband for interior doors in our time is 70 mm. Less common is a casing of 80 mm.
The trim on interior doors is cut in two ways: at 45 and 90 degrees. The main, more popular way to cut it down is at 45 degrees, since this casing is inexpensive and average price interior doors. Expensive doors usually come with a platband with a 90-degree cut. It is better to file the platband with professional tool- this is a miter saw, but you can also use a hand saw - a miter box and a hacksaw.
Cashing out an interior door is a very long and painstaking job, since each stick of the platband is sawed down individually. and you cannot allow the slightest error when cutting down the joining angle of the casing.
The installation of platbands helps to close the holes between the door frame and the wall, and they are also designed to decorate the openings. Platbands are divided into external and internal. External platbands look more massive. Installation of platbands occurs using pine or spruce boards.
External trims have various kinds threads, as well as overhead parts. Threads come in relief and through types. It is done using jigsaws and drills of different diameters, semicircular and flat chisels.
Installation of the platband is carried out either to the floor or with a slight indentation of 15-20 cm. The empty space at the bottom is closed using a thick blank. This is necessary to protect the platband from rapid wear, and to give the opening beautiful view. Platbands come in smooth types and have selected moldings; they are distinguished by greater beauty. Door frames are painted in the color of the door, but they can be painted in other colors at the request of the customer.
Installation of platbands begins with determining the length. The casing is sawn down at a certain angle. The trim is attached to the prepared holes for nails. Installation of platbands should be carried out with the lower ends secured to the floor. To make repairs easier, you can also leave room for a large frame, called a bedside table. Installation of platbands should be done before the baseboard fastenings. Door frames are nailed to the frames with nails that have flattened heads.
Tags: How to properly install trim on interior doors at 90 degrees
Contact us: [email protected]...
Artel doors Arzamas | Topic author: Maxim
How to install platbands: at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees?
Door trim is an important element in the appearance of the door. The platbands highlight and emphasize the door in the interior. Of great importance is the angle at which they are joined: at an angle of 90 degrees or 45. In which cases one or another option is appropriate, we will analyze it in this short material.
The standard width of the platbands is 70 mm, but they can be wider. The shapes are divided into rounded, flat and embossed. According to the mounting method, conventional and telescopic.
Any platbands are joined at an angle of 45 degrees.
This is a classic option for connecting platbands together. For classic doors with curved lines in the design, this is the only option. With this method of installing platbands, cutting them at a given angle plays a very important role. The cut should be as smooth and clear as possible. If the walls are curved, then an inclination or offset in the cut will be required. In general, in the end there should be a perfect joint. Otherwise, gaps and chips will be very noticeable, especially on light-colored doors.
Only flat platbands are joined at right angles.
To install platbands at 90 degrees, only platbands specially made for this purpose are suitable. This means that the shapes of the joints of the platbands must be the same. For rounded or figured platbands, the shape of the cut differs from the shape of the side part. Moreover, even flat platbands have slight rounding at the corners. Therefore, the top casing should be thinner than the side ones so that it is slightly recessed. Otherwise, the end of the platbands will be exposed.
Door frames are installed at right angles on doors in a modern style with straight lines. The right angle of the platbands seems to complement the right angles of the door structure.
Recently, manufacturers have begun to produce flat trim designed only for installation at right angles. This means that in a set of 5 trims for one door, one will be thinner than the rest. Installers need to be careful not to cut the thick side casing in half.
The upper casing is also installed at a right horizontal angle. This is how capitals and cornices are installed - decorative trims.
Do-it-yourself installation of platbands - YouTube
At what stage of the renovation should you start installing trims... trims on doors, trims at 45 degrees, do-it-yourself trims,... interior doors, installation...
Do-it-yourself door frame assembly
Introduction
In this article I will tell you how to assemble a door frame, namely how to cut and assemble a door frame in two different versions:
- Wash down the boxes at 45°
- I washed the boxes down at 90°.
box with seal
An interior door consists of a door leaf, hinged hinges, a mortise lock or latch, and a door frame. As a rule, the door frame for doors of the middle price class is supplied in the form of a do-it-yourself “designer”, that is, in disassembled form. The box consists of three profiled wooden beams, covered with veneer or film to match the color of the door leaf. The length of the vertical beams is 2100-2200 mm; horizontal beam-1000-1100 mm. Door frames differ from each manufacturer in their readiness for installation.
For some manufacturers, the door frames are already sawed off and cut at an angle of 45°, just to the size of the door leaf and are completely prepared for assembly. But most boxes are delivered unprepared. They need to be prepared.
Let's consider two options for assembling the door frame
Option 1. Sawing and assembling the box at an angle of 45°
Correct joining of the door frame in the corners
Washed down the boxes on the miter box
The door frame is ready for assembly
- Take two future vertical bars of the box. With a canvas size of 2000 mm and a finished floor covering of 30 mm, the length of the short side of the beam should be -2000 + 30 + the gap between the canvas and the finished floor: 10-15 mm = 2040-2045 mm.
- Check the box inside Box beams according to the required length of the canvas.
- Saw off the excess at an angle. The cutting angle of the timber should be 135° on the inside or -45° on the outside. The length of both vertical beams of the box must be the same.
- Do the same procedure with a horizontal short beam. The only difference is that you have to saw off from both sides. Be careful with the sizes. The main thing in all carpentry work: Measure twice, cut once.
When marking, do not forget that the gap between the canvas and the box itself should be 3 mm.
Option 2. Assembling the box at an angle of 90°
Assembling the box at an angle of 90°
Door frame view for direct connection
Door frame connection at 90 degrees
Preparing for Direct Box Connection
With this assembly option, in vertical racks the future box is removed, the so-called narthex of the box, by the thickness of the vertical beam. See picture.
Assembling a door frame step by step
Assembling a door frame with a gash
After preparing the box, we begin assembling it.
Place the prepared parts of the box on the floor. Connect the corner joints of the box with screws, two screws in each corner. In door frames sawn at 90°, the self-tapping screws are screwed in at right angles (photo above left). In door frames sawn at 45°, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45° (photo top right). The box is "almost complete."
In order to maintain parallelism of the vertical posts and the same distance between them according to the size of the door leaf, place the door leaf on the “almost assembled” frame, since it will stand in the opening. Fix the gap between the canvas and the box by inserting identical pieces of hardboard or wedges into the gap.
Fixing the canvas in the box for its correct assembly
Now the box needs to be fixed in this position. There are several ways to do this.
Ways to fix the door frame in the desired position before installation
Method 1. Secure the door frame using thin slats. Nail the slats perpendicular to the posts, using thin nails to the very edge of the vertical posts. There should be two slats: in the middle and at the bottom.
Mounting angle for box assembly
Method 2. Strengthen the joints of the box beams of the future box. Add wide and rigid force angles with holes for fastening to the screws. Screw the force angles, strictly checking the perpendicularity of both vertical and horizontal beams. But I recommend adding another fixing bar to the bottom of the box.
The assembly of the door frame is completed, remove the door leaf from the frame. The assembled box is ready for installation.
That's all! Good luck to you in your endeavors!
Especially for the site: Everything about apartment renovation
www.otdelochnik24.ru
HOW TO ASSEMBLE A DOOR FRAME | blogremont.ru
The door frame consists of two side vertical elements and one upper horizontal element connecting the first two. The lower horizontal element is also used less often as a threshold, but this is rather an exception to the rule. generally accepted rules.
One of the rules of “good form” is to file the joints of the frame and platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. The highest quality cuts are made using a miter saw. If you do not have the opportunity to use this tool, you can use a miter box and a special hacksaw for an ultra-clean cut with a “pass” or “tenon”. I highly recommend that you first practice on ordinary bars and “get your hands on it.”
First, the side elements of the box are cut down. Do not immediately cut the racks to length. I'll explain why. If you cut the top part incorrectly at an angle of 45 degrees, you will no longer have the opportunity to correct the mistake by cutting it again, because the post has already been shortened, and there will simply be nowhere to make it even shorter. First, file the most difficult part, that is, the upper corner joints and check the correctness of the file with a square. The angle should be clear, without deviations, and the cutting plane should be perfectly flat. If there is a deviation of even a couple of degrees, when assembling the box, you will not be able to achieve an angle of 90 degrees at the joints, which is a prerequisite for quality work.
Having finished cutting down the racks, we move on to the transverse element of the box. Here you also need to be very careful. After all, the second end will need to be sawed not only at an angle, but also along the length, so that the necessary gaps remain between door leaf and side posts of the box. The length of the inner part facing the door leaf should be 8 mm. greater than the width of the door leaf. If the width of the door leaf is 60 cm, then the length will be 60.8 cm. Make precise markings and make a cut.
Now you need to cut the side posts to length. There is a small nuance here that should not be overlooked. Not only do we need a gap above the top of the door leaf, we also need a gap below of about 10mm. But the floor on which the box will be installed may not be perfectly level, or “out of level.” In this case, if we cut the side posts to the same length, then during installation the door frame will warp, because one post will be higher than the other.
To avoid this, you need to check the plane of the floor in doorway by level. It is most convenient to use a laser level here, but you can also successfully see the difference with a regular rack level. It is only necessary that the level itself fits the width of the doorway. If the level is short, then do the following simple operation. Cut an even block of the required length, and place a level on it, thereby increasing its length.
So, let's say for example that you find a difference in floor height at the edges of the doorway of 6 mm. What to do next? The stand, which will rest on a low place, needs to be made longer by this same 6 mm. We do the calculation this way. The side posts should be 13 mm. exceed the length of the door leaf, and equal 2.13 meters, which includes the length of the door leaf (2 meters), the gap above the door leaf (3 mm) and the gap below it (10 mm). Let's add a difference of 6 mm to the rack resting on a low place. and we get 2.18 meters. If the floor is flat and clearly level, then the racks should be the same length (2.13 meters).
Let me immediately draw your attention to the fact that without professional tools and experience, you are unlikely to be able to install high-quality mortise hinges. The insertion is made using a manual milling machine, and not with a chisel and a hammer, as many people think and are mistaken.
Therefore, I recommend buying overhead loops, as in the photo. They do not require insertion, and their installation does not take much time and effort. The overhead loop consists of two parts that fit into one another and form one plane. The smaller inner part is attached to the door leaf, and the larger one to the frame post.
Mark at the end of the door leaf 20 cm from each edge. Examine the canvas carefully and decide which way the door will open. Here it is important not to make a mistake and place the loops correctly. The hinge hinges should face the direction the door swings.
Place the hinge at the end until the hinges stop. Do not press the hinge too hard against the edge of the canvas. The loop should rotate freely on the hinges without touching the canvas. If, when opening the hinge, you notice that the hinge scrapes along the canvas, leave a small gap of 1 mm.
Place a mark in one of the hinge holes and drill a hole slightly thinner than the self-tapping screws that come with the hinges. There is no need to drill all four holes at once. You can make a mistake in the markings, and the loop will lead to the side. After tightening one self-tapping screw and making sure that the hinge has not moved and sits straight, drill the remaining holes and secure it. Do the same with the second loop.
Now we’ll screw the mating part of the loop to the box post. For convenience, it is better to place the door leaf on the floor and place the frame post next to it. In order for the hinges to lie evenly on the frame, the door needs to be raised slightly, adjusting the height with wedges. By leaning the box stand against the end, make sure that it protrudes slightly above the length of the canvas, which after assembly will allow the required gap of 3 mm to form. Then drill holes to secure the hinge. Now you don’t need to completely screw the hinges on, because you still need to assemble the box, and it’s more convenient to do this without a canvas.
Lift the door leaf from the floor and set it aside, thereby making room for the door frame. It is also more convenient to roll the box on the floor, as you will soon see for yourself. To begin, the following preparations are required. Take top part box and in the cut plane, perpendicular to it, drill two holes on each side for self-tapping screws, about a centimeter from the edges, as in the photo. In the uprights of the box, make one hole in the middle, also perpendicular to the plane.
Now, having correctly positioned the elements of the box, one by one, continue drilling to the adjacent part, and then screw them together with self-tapping screws. No need to look for any special screws. Any type will do, for example those that are used to secure drywall to metal profiles. The most important condition here is the clear connection of the sawn ends.
To ensure that the parts fit snugly together, place plywood under them. If you have a very flat floor, then you can do without it. I repeat that the most important thing here is to keep the plane from sliding at the moment of twisting. If you have strong hands, you can avoid skewing by simply holding the box with one hand while tightening the screw with the other.
You can use special furniture clamps that allow you to fix two parts at an angle of 90 degrees. If there are none, then take the usual ones and do it as shown in the photo. Remember that the quality of the connection determines how smoothly the platband will be fixed to the box, so try to do everything correctly the first time so that you don’t have to twist or drill extra holes.
Well then. The box is assembled, all that remains is to connect it together with the canvas. The holes for the hinges are already ready, all that remains is to tighten the screws. Place the canvas in its original place, align the holes in the box with the hinges and safely tighten it. You can do this without laying the canvas on the floor, but by leaning the box against the canvas standing against the wall. Whichever is more convenient for you. Having collected everything together, screw the handle, place the canvas in the box and place it against the wall until the next process, which will be described in the next article. As you may have guessed, it will talk about how to properly install an interior door.
blogremont.ru
preparation for work and installation
Installation of a door will not be complete without installing a frame. It is the basis of the future design, and the further operation of the product, its service life and ease of use depend on the correct performance of the work.
Preparing for work
At self-installation There should be a row of doors preparatory work. The first thing to do is check the walls to ensure they are suitable for installation. For this purpose, it is necessary to measure the doorway, namely the width and length. To ensure the most accurate measurements, you should take measurements at different heights and in several positions.
Most doors have similar dimensions, and the same can be said about the door frame. Therefore, the purpose of measuring the opening is to find out whether the given value dimensions of the structure. Ideally, there should be a free space of 1-2 cm, both on top and on the sides.
If the free space is greater than these values, then a spacer should be installed in the form of a beam of appropriate dimensions. If the opening size is significantly exceeded, you can use installation metal frame or cover the desired part with plasterboard. As for those situations when the doorway smaller sizes boxes, then the excess part should simply be removed.
To install the door frame you will need following materials and tools:
- Drill and set of drills.
- Screwdriver.
- Chisel or milling cutter.
- Hammer.
- Hand hacksaw.
- Plumb.
- Mount.
- Hammer.
- Bulgarian.
- Building level.
- Rotary miter box.
Door frame assembly
Before installing the box, you should assemble it. Assembly can be carried out in three ways: using tenons for connection, securing the timber at an angle of 45 degrees and similar work with a beam, but at an angle of 90 degrees.
The tenon connection includes several points. First, you need to make spikes in the adjacent bars. It is worth noting here that both horizontal and vertical beams must have spikes, with which the joining process could then be carried out. The second point that you need to pay attention to is that the height of the spikes should be equal to the thickness of the bars.
Assembling a door frame at an angle of 45 degrees is carried out in the following way. That part of the vertical beam, which will subsequently be connected to the horizontal beam, should be sawn at an angle of 45 degrees. Similar actions are carried out with a horizontal bar, but on both sides. It is worth paying attention that when choosing vertical racks you need to rely on the dimensions of the doorway: its height and the thickness of the beam. Don't forget about the gaps.
The vertical posts are the same height. To calculate the length of a horizontal beam, you need to add up the following parameters: the thickness of the beam, the height of the opening and the size of the gaps. To avoid making mistakes, before cutting the timber, it is recommended to carefully double-check the obtained values and take repeated measurements. To assemble the structure and final fastening, nails or screws are required. They should also be screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees.
The connection at an angle of 90 degrees is much simpler than the previous option. In this case, the horizontal beam is laid directly on the vertical post, without any cutting. But you will still need to use a saw, since you need to saw off the porch. Self-tapping screws or nails are also used for connections.
After making the beams, you can begin assembling the door frame using the methods described earlier. For convenience, you should place the structure on flat surface, and put some material under the bars, old books will do. After this, the parts are connected using self-tapping screws.
How to install hinges?
Before this work, you should decide how the door will open. Then you need to purchase necessary materials. To install hinges, use the more massive side of the door. It is necessary to check that it is free from various defects.
Door hinges are presented different types, further installation will depend on this. To install the door frame and interior door, two hinges are enough. Concerning entrance structures, then in order to increase their strength and safety, it is recommended to use three loops. In this situation, the installation of the third loop occurs just above the middle of the canvas.
Before starting installation, measure a distance of 20 cm from the beginning of the canvas, below, and from the end of the canvas, above. These marks will be the place for installing hinges for the door frame. After this, the loops should be attached to the intended place, circle them with a pencil, and then carefully cut out the resulting markings with a knife.
After this, you will need a chisel and a hammer, which are necessary to cut out the place where the hinges will be installed. The depth of the cut surface must be equal to the dimensions of the specified elements. Mistakes at this stage can lead to the loops either not holding well or sticking out. The thickness of the loops is 3-5 mm, respectively, the depth of the recess will be the same.
The cutting process should be carried out slowly and carefully. You should remove the wood in parts and do not try to remove it all at once.
The recess should be processed several times before proceeding to the final stage of installation of the blizzard.
Then the product is tried on; holes should be made in the places where you plan to screw in the screws.
Mounting a door frame into an opening
To secure structural elements at this stage of work, it is also necessary to use self-tapping screws.
Three fixation points will be sufficient, but if there are doubts about the strength of such a structure, it is recommended to install additional fastenings.
During the assembly of a door frame made of MDF, the fasteners are hidden under the striker plate door lock and loops. Then the box needs to be installed in the door opening for testing purposes, and the stand with hinges must be checked vertically.
From the side of the box that is adjacent to the wall, hanging strips are installed. The heel should be the same width as the wall. The whiskers of the strip should extend approximately 50 mm onto the inner and outside.
The total vertical number of slats should be two or three. As for the horizontal, this number in this case is limited to one or two. After this, we install the door frame structure into the opening, without a door for now.
After these steps, it is necessary to check the vertical and horizontal axes with a plumb line or building level. The antennae of the planks must be secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. A spacer bar is installed on the lower part, the dimensions of which are equal to the upper beam.
The door frame is installed. Next, you need to drive in 15 wooden wedges. Their installation is carried out along the entire perimeter between the box and the wall. Using a hammer you should achieve best fastening boxes, while you need to monitor the horizontal and vertical axes.
The installation of the box is completed by fixing it to the wall using anchor bolts. To do this, you need to make through holes around the perimeter of the beam, and mark holes on the wall, after which it is drilled using a hammer drill. An anchor bolt must be inserted into the hole, after which it is secured.
Thus, the door frame is installed. Installation of this structure is not difficult; to complete the work you need to have the material and tools. As for the installation plan, in this case the positive result of all the work depends only on the person’s diligence and patience. To achieve it, you must strictly follow these rules.
1podveryam.ru
How to assemble a door frame
Assembling the door frame is a very important installation step. new door, on which its performance depends. At the same time, knowing the technology, assembly is easy even for a beginner. Therefore, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with this procedure in detail from beginning to end.
Installation technology
First of all, we note that the assembly of the box must be considered in conjunction with the installation, since some important operations are performed at the stage of its fastening.
Therefore, the door frame assembly technology essentially consists of six main steps:
- Working with a doorway;
- Assembly of the supporting structure;
- Loop insertion;
- Installation of the box;
- Fastening of additional elements;
- Installation of platbands.
Preparing the opening
Assembling the box, as a rule, begins with preparing the doorway and taking measurements. Otherwise, you are unlikely to be able to accurately obtain its dimensions.
We prepare the doorway like this:
| Illustrations | Technology |
| If you are replacing doors, you must remove old box. Start by dismantling the trim using a crowbar or a powerful screwdriver. | |
| Then remove the old door frame using a crowbar or crowbar. If you cannot cope with this task, first saw the old structure and dismantle it in parts. | |
Clean the surface of the opening:
|
|
| Measure the height of the opening and its width. Then write down the results. |
This completes the preparation.
There are cases when the door is smaller than the opening. To correct the situation it is necessary to reduce it.
To do this, the beam is secured in height or width using dowels or anchors. The space between the box and the wall can be covered with plasterboard.
If the opening is smaller than the door itself, it needs to be widened - cut out or knock down the excess section with a hammer drill.
But, do not forget that it should be 10 cm larger in height and width than the box. Therefore, it is impossible to adjust the structure down to millimeters so that it fits tightly.
Assembly of the supporting structure
If the frame was purchased assembled along with the door, then it does not need any preparation - you can immediately begin installation, the only thing is that you must first secure the hangers, which we will discuss below. But, often the product is sold in the form of one profile, which the buyer himself must cut and then assemble. The profile price is slightly lower finished product, which allows you to save on installing a new door.
So, the assembly of the structure is carried out as follows:
| Illustrations | Technology |
| The profile must be marked according to the obtained dimensions, and cut into three strips - two racks in height minus 10 cm, and one lintel. The length of the lintel, accordingly, should be 10 cm less than the width of the opening. | |
Before the door frame is assembled, the edges of the posts and lintels are cut at 45 degrees. But first you need to do the markup as follows:
In a similar way, you need to mark the upper edges of the racks and the edges of the strip between them. Advice! To avoid marking and quickly trim the edges of parts at 90 degrees, use a miter box - this device is a special template. |
|
| Cut the blanks along the drawn line. | |
| Coat the joints with glue and fasten all the planks with screws. At the same time, make sure that all angles are even - ninety degrees. | |
| On the back side of the structure, secure the hangers, which are intended for assembling the frame for drywall, with screws. Make the distance between the hangers 40-50 cm. |
Door installation
So, the assembly of the door frame is completed - the installation of interior doors is carried out as follows:
| Illustrations | Technology |
| The work begins with marking. To do this, decide where the hinges will be located on the rack. Then attach the loop, fix it in the correct position and trace it with a sharp object or pencil. | |
| Using a router or chisel and hammer, make a recess equal to the thickness of the hinge plate so that it is flush with the surface of the post. | |
| Insert the canopy into the recess and secure with screws. First, to prevent the stand from cracking, drill holes for the screws. | |
| Prepare the recesses in the door leaf in the same way and secure the awnings. To ensure that the position of the recesses coincides with the canopies on the racks, place the canvas in the box and make markings. |
So, we have found out how to assemble a door frame with your own hands - the video presented in this article will allow you to visually familiarize yourself with the nuances of the process. It must be said that the door can be installed after the installation of the supporting structure, however, it is more convenient to do the work in advance.
Installation of the structure
Door assembly MDF boxes or from another material - this is only half the battle. It is extremely important to install it correctly. In fact, this work is the second stage of assembly.
The installation instructions for the supporting structure look like this:
| Illustrations | Technology |
| Insert the structure into the opening and level it so that there is an equal gap between the racks and the wall - about 10 cm. Then align the structure flush with the wall. If its surface is uneven, for example, the wall will subsequently be plastered, then the frame must be leveled by level or plumb. | |
| Secure the post to which the awnings are attached. First, the part of the hangers that is flush with the wall is attached to the wall using dowel nails. Please note that the hanger must be deepened so that the wall surface can be finished. Thus, fix all the hangers of the supporting rack on the wall. | |
| Wedge the structure by inserting bars between the wall and the profile, as in the photo. Wedges should be positioned opposite each hanger. Thanks to them, the stand will not move towards the wall. | |
| Secure the other half of the hanger. To do this, use the same dowel nails. | |
| Adjust the position of the second post so that the door leaf fits freely into the frame and fits against the profile along its entire length. Advice! The second post should not be leveled, as the door leaf may be somewhat deformed. Therefore, you should focus only on the door. |
|
| Make wedges several millimeters thick to adjust the structure. | |
| Insert wedges between the door and the studs to ensure equal clearance. | |
| Wedge the second rack and secure it with hangers. | |
| Wet the area of the wall and the back of the structure with water. | |
| Fill the gap with polyurethane foam around the perimeter of the structure. |
Approximately the same is installed metal structure front door. The only thing is that instead of hangers it is necessary to use powerful metal anchors that are drilled into the load-bearing wall.
Installation of accessories
Often the box has additional elements that make the structure deeper. In fact, the additions allow you to finish the opening so as not to have to install slopes.
They are installed like this:
| Illustrations | Technology |
| Measure the depth of the opening from the profile to the wall. Take measurements in several areas, as the wall may be uneven. Also measure the width and height of the opening if you do not know these parameters. |
|
| Cut the additional strips according to the obtained dimensions. Please note that the width must match maximum depth opening. It is advisable to use a jigsaw to cut the planks. |
|
| Fasten the prepared planks with screws. It is not necessary to cut them at 45 degrees. The main thing is that the angle corresponds to 90 degrees. Use screws to join the planks. Pre-drill holes for them. |
|
| Insert into profile groove collected extras. First tuck the top bar, and then the racks along the entire length. | |
| Using masking tape, secure the extensions to the wall and profile. To securely fix the slats, place the tape in increments of 30-40 cm. | |
| If in some areas the plank moves away from the profile, to fix it, insert a wedge from a piece of foam plastic. | |
Fill the space between the extensions and the wall:
|
Fastening platbands
The final stage of installing the box is installing the trim. This operation is performed like this:
| Illustrations | Technology |
| Cut decorative strips to fit the opening and trim their edges at forty-five degrees according to the pattern described above. Note! If the decorative strips have a flat surface, the edges do not need to be cut at forty-five degrees. |
|
| Trim off excess mounting foam around the perimeter of the opening. It should be flush with the frame and the wall. | |
| Apply thin strip from foam on the back side of the decorative strip. | |
| Glue the platbands and additionally attach them with micropins, using the thinnest pins. If you don’t have a micropin, use small window nails after biting off the caps. Advice! Drive the nails carefully so as not to damage the front surface of the frame. To do this, you can place a block under the hammer. |
This completes the work. Using this technology, a door frame is assembled from MDF or wood.
Conclusion
As you can see, in general the door frame assembly technology is quite simple. But first, we recommend watching the video in this article to clearly see the nuances of the work.
sdelaidver.com
DIY installation and assembly, how to properly install an interior door, video
Assembling a door frame with your own hands is not difficult if you approach this process competently. Stores often sell disassembled door frames, and home handyman you have to assemble them yourself, carefully adjusting them to the dimensions of the doorway. So that the process does not take much time, it is recommended that you first familiarize yourself with the assembly technology, purchase necessary tools and then get to work. Every man should know how to assemble a door frame, since this skill is indispensable in construction and renovation, both in an apartment and in a private house.
The door frame consists of several bars of different sizes that need to be connected together, having previously adjusted them to the dimensions of the opening. Two of them are longer - the racks will be made from them, and two are shorter, from which the threshold and crossbar will be made. The size of each element will depend on the height and width of the opening, as well as on the method of connecting the structure.
Methods for connecting beams:
- Using tenons cut into the posts and cross members;
- I washed it down at an angle of 45˚;
- Sawing at an angle of 90˚.
Before assembling the door frame, experts recommend familiarizing yourself with the methods of connecting beams
For home craftsmen with experience in carpentry, all of the above methods are suitable, and for beginners - sawing at one of the angles. To cut tenons you will need a jigsaw, to cut at 45˚ you will need a miter box and a hacksaw, and to cut timber at 90˚ you only need a miter saw or a hacksaw with fine teeth.
The tenon joint of the door frame is reinforced with small nails coated with an anti-corrosion coating or glued with wood glue.
To assemble a connection at any of the angles, first drill a hole, and then screw wood screws into it, the length of which is 50 - 60 mm.
Before making cuts on the ends of the beams, you should carefully measure everything and mark it with a pencil, because mistakes made cannot be corrected and you will have to buy new material.
Particular attention should be paid to the installation of hinges. Their locations must correspond exactly to the location of the fittings on the door leaf.
How to cut a door frame at 45 degrees correctly
Basically, door frames with a round cross-section are sawed at an angle of 45 degrees. If there is a threshold, then cuts will have to be made on all parts. If there is no threshold on the racks, cutting is done only on one side, and on the crossbar - on both sides.
There are two ways to saw a door frame at an angle of 45 degrees, which you can choose at your discretion
Methods for sawing at 45˚:
- Using a miter box. Marks are first made on the timber with a simple pencil, marker, or simply squeezed out with a sharp object. Then the beam is installed and fixed in the miter box. You should carefully saw off the block so that there are no chips.
- Miter saw with rotating table. A beam is installed on the frame at the desired angle, on which markings are applied. The saw quickly and easily cuts off the excess part, leaving a smooth cut without cracks or chips.
It must be taken into account that the distance between the frame and the door (leaf) itself should be three millimeters.
When assembling the structure, the screws are screwed in at an angle. This step is necessary to securely fix the box.
Quick installation of a door frame with your own hands
Immediately after assembling the door frame, you can immediately install it. To do this, there is a certain algorithm of actions that must be carefully followed.
In order to quickly install a door frame with your own hands, you should prepare tools and materials for work in advance
Work order:
- The doorway is cleared of remnants of plaster and narrowed or widened if necessary. The distance between the opening and the jamb should be no more than 2.5-3 centimeters.
- The box is installed in the opening. To securely fix it, you will need a spacer made of wooden wedges. If there is no threshold, then a wooden plank is installed in its place.
- The door frame is attached to the wall with anchor bolts or iron rods. The cavities between the opening and the jamb must be foamed with foam.
- To prevent the box from deforming after the foam hardens, additional wooden wedges should be installed. They are pulled out during the process of cutting off excess foam.
In order not to stain structural elements with construction foam, they should be covered with masking tape.
How to secure a door frame in an opening: detailed instructions
The stronger and more securely the frame is fixed in the doorway, the longer the door will last without requiring repairs. There won’t be any particular difficulties if you follow all the tips and instructions. When installing an interior door, it should be secured so firmly that you can, for example, attach children's jumpers to it.
When securing the door frame in the opening, you can additionally read the instructions
How to properly secure a door frame:
- After the door has been secured with spacers, you need to drill three holes on each support;
- Anchor bolts or metal rods are driven into the prepared holes, the ends of which are flattened;
- If installation is carried out in concrete wall, then special dowels are driven in;
- All cavities are carefully filled with polyurethane foam with the expectation that it can double in volume;
- In a narrow passage, wide metal plates with holes are used to fasten door frames into which self-tapping screws are screwed or anchors are driven in.
Recommendations from the experts: how to install a door with a frame correctly
Not everyone will be able to install the door correctly the first time, especially if the person has never encountered this before. First, he must study the sequence of work in detail. He may need clear and detailed diagram structures and fastenings.
If you decide to install the door frame in the opening yourself, then it is better to do everything step by step
Stages of work:
- Installation of accessories;
- Installation and strengthening in the opening;
- Hanging and adjusting the door leaf;
- Finishing with platbands.
If the door is made of MDF, then in no case should you plaster the slopes, but it is better to fill the space with additions to match the color of the product.
The fittings can be inserted either before the door frame is completely assembled or after.
It is better to make spacers in the form of wedges to make it easier to level the box.
Polyurethane foam is applied in stages several times. You cannot use the door until it has completely hardened.
How to correctly assemble the door frame of an interior door (video)
Even a novice craftsman can easily install a door on his own if he takes his time and uses the tools correctly. Don't despair when not everything goes smoothly. You need to calm down, think carefully about everything again, or ask for advice from professionals. Using the recommendations given in the article, you can not only install doors yourself, but also control the work of hired builders, who do not always perform it efficiently.
openfile.ru
Assembling a door frame - detailed instructions and photos
The door frame purchased along with the door, with rare exceptions, is a set of blanks that you need to assemble yourself.
How to properly assemble a door frame
We have three timbers, with a coating similar to the door leaf and made with a decent margin. Assembling a door frame is the process of sawing two sections at the junction, adjusting the vertical posts in height and the connection itself.
In this case, the connection of two vertical posts with the top (top of the box) can occur by sawing the two connected parts at an angle of 45 degrees, or in a straight line, with the choice of a quarter. I would recommend cutting at 45 degrees only if you have a cross-cut saw or are good at performing this operation manually (experience and practice).
The quality of a 45-degree cut is influenced by a lot of factors - starting from the accuracy of the miter saw setting, the sharpness of the disc, the accuracy of the part being installed in the machine and other little things that imperceptibly affect the final result. In addition, the connection itself after even a high-quality gash is not such a simple matter. It is quite difficult to drill and tighten screws when two parts strive to move away from the intended position.
Therefore, in case of doubt and lack of experience, I recommend docking at 90 degrees. What's the best way to do this?
First of all, you need to measure the width of the door leaf. The fact that the store presented it as 600, 700, 800 or 900 mm does not mean at all that it is exactly that size. For example, the door I am installing has a width of 797 mm. Therefore, when assembling the box, we achieve a width of the structure equal to the result of your measurement plus 6 mm.
To connect two parts that have a “ledge” (narthex) in their profile, it is necessary to cut it off. This is done on top, while the side stand must be trimmed off. Having made the markings, we cut down the ledge to the required width with a fine-tooth hacksaw, not reaching a few millimeters to the base. Then we cut it down with a chisel and clean it until we get a smooth plane.
The door frame is assembled using self-tapping screws with a length of 51 mm. up to 75 mm. and in some cases - 100 mm. Self-tapping screws are tightened only with preliminary drilling. We use a drill with a diameter not exceeding 0.7 of the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The first assembly is carried out using two self-tapping screws in each connection so as to only “grab” it.
We lay the box on the floor, covering it with protective material. Now we go to the doorway to take measurements of the floor area directly at the location where the door is installed. To do this, using building level(exceeding the width of the opening), we place horizontal marks at a height of approximately 20 centimeters from the floor.
We measure the distance from the marks to the floor, on the left and right sides of the opening. If there is a difference, remember how many millimeters and on which side the value is greater. Together, carefully place the door leaf into the assembled frame.
Holding the door leaf and tapping on the top, we achieve the formation of a uniform gap of 2.5 - 3 mm on top of the door. Then we mark the length of the side posts.
At flat floors and the absence of carpets, the clearance under the door should be 8-10 mm. We make a mark on the stand that, based on the results of our measurements of the quality of the floor, will take the place of the smaller of the two values.
On the second stand - add the difference obtained during measurements. As a result, we will make markings and file the frame posts so that they stand clearly on the floor and there are no gaps under them. And one more marking - the place where the hinges are inserted into the box. We insert the hinges into the holes made in the doors and, pressing the square, transfer the contours to the frame.
And one more thing, before removing the door leaf and disassembling the frame to insert the hinges and saw off the height. Pay attention to the size of the gap to the left and right of the door leaf next to the top. Once you've disassembled the box, you can make adjustments before final assembly. When performing final assembly, use 2-3 screws at each connection. Continuation
Photo gallery (9 photos):
__________________________________________________uef.ru
dimensions, assembly, adjustment, insertion of hinges, fastening
Installing a door (interior or entrance) requires care and attention. The main condition for long-term and comfortable operation is the verticality and horizontality of the door frame. Pay close attention to this aspect. Then the doors will open and close normally, they will not warp, and the hinges will not creak.
Equipment
Install interior doors after they are finished Finishing work on the walls and ceiling. The subfloor must also be ready, laid flooring, but the baseboards have not yet been installed.
There are three types of door configurations:
Choose the option that seems more attractive to you. Naturally, their cost is different, but the labor and time costs are also very different.
Door frame dimensions
Regarding door sizes building standards V different countries are different. For example, in our country the standard width is swing door 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm, 900 mm. Similar standards are in Spain or Italy. But in France, 690 mm, 790 mm and 890 mm are considered the norm.
What to choose? More often they prefer to adhere to domestic standards: there is more choice. Installing doors that do not comply with building codes leads to the fact that in order to replace them you will need to look for the same ones or redo the doorway. There are no other features.
In general, the width of the door leaf and doorway is regulated by GOST. He defines them depending on the room:
But the reality is such that we adapt to what we received from the builders. Therefore, to determine the size of the door and frame, you need to measure the existing opening. Based on the results (the smallest value), select the dimensions of the block, which will be slightly smaller. Necessarily less, since clearance is required for installation of fasteners and spacers.
When taking measurements of the doorway, inspect the walls. If necessary, repair and strengthen: the box will hold up better. The condition of the walls during installation is especially critical heavy doors. If possible, you can attach a wooden block at least 50 mm thick to the wall and plaster it. It will be convenient to attach the box to it later.
There is also such a parameter as the depth of the box. The standard is 70-80 cm. But in many private houses the wall thickness is many times wider. Then the doors are installed flush with one of the walls so that the opening and slopes do not interfere with their opening. The remaining width of the opening can either be plastered and finished similarly to the walls, or an additional trim can be installed, which is matched to match the door leaf and door trim.
Read how to install the additional strip here. About installing trim on doors is written here.
How to assemble and install a door frame
If you purchased doors with a frame, you will need to fasten the vertical strips - racks (jambs) - to the horizontal - lintel. This is usually done on the floor. Having laid paper or cardboard, the planks are laid out on the floor. Connect, checking the accuracy of the match. If necessary, eliminate defects: treat with sandpaper, ensuring that there are no cracks.
If you bought doors with a frame, you don’t need to worry too much about the size, but you still need to check. Just in case, so that you don’t have to redo it later. Therefore, having folded the door frame parts on the floor, place the doors between them. If everything is correct, then there should be a gap of about 3-4 mm around the perimeter of the door leaf. Only under this condition will the doors open and close normally.
A little should be said about adjusting the height. Typically, the side posts of the box are made 12-15 cm longer than the door. This is in case the doors are installed according to the rules: the racks will rest on the floor joists. But since this method of installation is rare today, the racks are shortened to required length.
Assembling the box and adjusting the height
The next stage is assembling the door frame. It is better to do this with self-tapping screws. If the corners of the planks are cut at 45o, we drill holes diagonally for the screws on the side plank, as shown in the photo. Then we apply it to a horizontal block and twist it with self-tapping screws.
If the corners of the box are filed at 90o, the work is somewhat easier, but it is still advisable to drill holes. This is definitely necessary if the box is made of MDF: this will guarantee that the material will not collapse.
The top bar is placed against the side bar, the edges are aligned. Make two holes: through the top bar and into the end of the side one. It will be clearer if you look at the photo.
By connecting the planks in this way, you get a finished box. The bottom bar is practically not used today, because there is nothing underneath. Check again, when assembled, the frame is 3-4 mm larger than the door leaf (and wider and longer). You can check.
Often the height of the racks is higher than necessary. Take a tape measure, measure the height of the doorway, subtract 1-2 cm, which will be filled with foam. This will be the height of the box. Measure on each side of the opening separately: Having measured again, put this value on the racks assembled box, draw a cutting line. Cut off the excess. Half of the installation of the door frame has already been done by you, and with your own hands.
We cut in the hinges
At what height should the hinges be installed? The distance from the edge of the door leaf should be at least 19 cm. For light doors, two hinges are enough - on top and bottom. On heavy ones, three are installed: another one in the middle.
The hinges consist of two detachable parts, one of which has a pin. We place them so that the pin faces up. It is important.
It is more convenient to embed hinges and locks directly on the floor. Therefore, we take the fittings, place them, mark them and make recesses. First we cut it in and secure it to the stand. Then, having placed the doors, we mark the place for the hinge at the end of the door leaf.
It’s convenient to work with a router; if you don’t have one, we use a chisel. You only need to remove a few millimeters of material, so it won't take much time. When folded, the hinges leave a gap of 4 mm between the door leaf and the post. Taking this into account and the thickness of your loop, we calculate the depth seat.
Having installed the hinges on the stand, we apply the canvas and at its end we mark the place where the hinges will be attached. We cut to the same depth as on the rack.
Installing the box
In the doorway, place the pillars and lintel assembled in the letter “P”. Using a level and/or plumb lines, you align in the horizontal and vertical plane. Fix the position with wedges and spacers, constantly checking the correct installation. Make sure that the racks are parallel and do not lean to the sides or forward. The comfort of using the doors depends on how smoothly you set everything.
Having checked everything again, use long self-tapping screws or dowels - depending on the wall material - to fix the frame panel in the doorway. One fastening on the door frame is located at a distance of 25-30 cm from the other. It turns out that 7-8 screws can fit on the vertical posts, and 2-3 on the ceiling.
A hole is drilled in the box itself with a 4 mm drill, no more: the heads of the screws are 5-6 mm, and if you make more, they will not hold. This is where a timber built into the opening comes in handy (if there is one, of course). The self-tapping screws easily screw into the wood and securely hold the box.
If the opening is made of brick, building blocks or shell rock, everything is more complicated: installation of dowels is required. Moreover, they should hit the bricks, and not the seam. And the diameter of the dowels is more than 4 mm, and they still need to be installed somehow.
Proceed as follows: drill with a thin 4 mm drill, trying to leave a mark on the wall. Having drilled everything, they dismantle the box and check where they hit it: in a brick or a seam. To avoid getting caught in a seam, look at the area of open masonry, or make marks on the box in advance (only those that can be erased later). If everything is fine, they make holes for the dowels; if they hit a seam, they make adjustments. Dowels are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall.
To make it easier to put the box in the same place later, you can mark its edge on the wall with a pencil, marker, etc.
Place the box again, ensuring that the holes in the box and the dowels match. Wedge it and check again how correctly it is installed. Insert the crepe into the dowels, periodically checking it is relatively vertical and horizontal plane. Do not overtighten - you may damage the wood or bend the post.
Now install the door leaf. It is simply hung on the hinge pins. After checking the functionality of the door, close it. Now the gap between the box and the wall must be filled with polyurethane foam.
Foaming
First, we fix the doors by placing some kind of material between the door leaf and the jamb. dense material, cardboard, for example. At closed door We install wedges and spacers that will prevent the box from bending.
Then we take a can of polyurethane foam and fill the gaps between the box and the wall by about one third. No more foam needed. And this amount is more than enough. When it dries, it increases in volume very much. If there is too much of it, it can bend the slats of the box. You'll have to dismantle everything and start over. Therefore, 1/3 of the volume of the cracks is enough. Having laid the foam, leave everything for about a day.
After which you can remove the spacers, trim off the excess foam with a sharp knife and begin installing the extension (if the doorway is wider than the frame) or installing the trim.
Results
Installing a door frame with your own hands is a responsible job. It requires attention and scrupulousness. But you don't need any superpowers. If you can handle a hammer, drill, chisel and self-tapping screws even a little, you can definitely handle it.
Doors are important detail any room, since they provide protection from unwanted penetration, retain heat and sound insulation. In order for the design to cope well with its functions and last longer, you need to know how to assemble the door frame if you cannot turn to professionals for help.
To understand exactly how a door is assembled, it is necessary to study its structure and components. These include:
- lintel - a “ceiling” strip located on top of the structure;
- loop beam - the side part, the loops cut into it;
- the recessed part is the opposite of the hinge part, it closes with the door when closing, and the counter side of the lock is installed into it;
- threshold - a beam located below.
Necessary tool
In order to assemble the door frame with your own hands quickly, you need to prepare in advance the tools that will be needed during the work process. In addition to the components of the box, the following accessories are needed:
- a simple pencil, tape measure, square and level;
- electric jigsaw or circular saw;
- perforator;
- drill or bit;
- screwdriver;
- hacksaw;
- screws, mounting foam, fastenings;
- necessary accessories.
How to take measurements
To assemble a high-quality structure, it is important, otherwise the door will not fit into the frame. There are several rules for taking measurements at home:
- First of all, the doorway is measured; the external parameters of the frame should exceed it by 70 mm. As for the internal parameters, a gap of 3 mm around the perimeter should be maintained between the door leaf and the edge of the frame.
- There is a separate rule for the gap located below; its height can be from 10 to 15 mm. This is necessary to ensure air circulation in the room, which is especially important for closed rooms like a bathroom or storage room. When installing sliding doors, it is necessary to take into account that profiles will be installed.
- Often, when building bathhouses, owners do not make a large gap at the bottom of the door, this is acceptable, but in this case, it is necessary to carefully measure the door threshold with a level in the corners.
These parameters are mandatory; if a discrepancy is found, the doorway must be expanded or reduced. It is easier to work with artificial openings made of plasterboard.
Assembly methods
The door frame installation guide depends on how it is assembled. Designs come with or without a threshold and with different nuances of securing parts.
How to assemble a door frame at 45° and without a threshold
Typically, MDF products are installed according to this scheme. detailed instructions to make a box using this method:
- To eliminate unevenness, you need to trim the box blanks.
- The loop and false beams are sawn in the upper part, at 45 degrees inward. For work, it is better to use tools with fine teeth or a hacksaw, this will help avoid damage to the finish. When working with products made from eco-veneer or laminated MDF, it is best to saw from the reverse side, so that possible cracks remain on it.
- After processing the side parts of the box, you can proceed to sawing the lintel. It is sawn on both sides at 45 degrees inward. It is important to measure everything carefully so that when assembled the parts form a right angle. Do not forget that a gap of 3 mm must be maintained. Measurements can be made either using a tape measure or by placing the beam directly against the doorway, making notes with a pencil.
- Next, you need to adjust the loop and trim beam in height, from the bottom, to the beginning of the cut corner. If there is no threshold, it is enough to add two gaps to the height of the door, 3 mm + 10-15 mm. After hanging, the door should close tightly enough, without obstacles to opening, and not touch the floor.
- Once all the components are sawed down, you need to move on to assembling the parts. It is easier to work by placing them on the floor. For safety, it is better to use a small diameter drill. Self-tapping screws must be for wood; they are also screwed at an angle of 45 degrees. When fastening the parts, they must be pressed tightly against each other, since the screws stretch the parts.
- After assembly, the structure must be tried on in the doorway; if the calculations are accurate, it will fit into it without any problems.
The measurements must be checked several times. If a mistake is made and the door frame turns out to be too small for the door leaf, you will have to purchase new material.
How to assemble a door frame with a 90 joint yourself
The simplest assembly option, which a beginner can handle, is also often used when working with wood-fiber materials. How to assemble with a 90 degree joint step by step:
- The side beams are adjusted to the height of the doorway, taking into account all the gaps. They will reach to the very top of the doorway.
- The upper part is fixed between the loop and the false part, so it must be shortened by as much as the width of both side beams. After connecting, the three parts should fit snugly into the width of the opening.
- After preparing the components, you can proceed to assembly. Holes for self-tapping screws are made in advance to avoid cracks in the wood; they should enter from the sides, at an angle of 90 degrees.
Assembling a door frame with a threshold
Structures equipped with thresholds are usually installed at the entrance to houses, as they retain heat and make the box more durable. Even though a new part is being added, assembling the parts is not difficult. The first steps are identical to those performed during the installation of boxes without a threshold. The lintel and side beams can be installed at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. The threshold is always set at a right angle. Step-by-step instruction for assembling a box with a threshold:
- The threshold beam must be sawn exactly at a right angle, observing the width, from one side part to the second, you can also focus on the formula: door width + 6 mm gap. To correctly determine the height of the threshold, it is necessary to place the structure in the door leaf.
- Next, you need to carefully cut down the thrust quarter on the false and hinged beams, to the height of the bottom board, to securely fasten the threshold. Measurements must be taken accurately, otherwise you can simply ruin the material.
- Once the components are prepared, you can proceed to connecting them, also tightening them tightly so that the parts do not fall apart. When working with entrance doors It is better to use galvanized screws.
Door frame tenon connection
A less common method of connecting box parts can be done without using self-tapping screws, however, to ensure strength it is best to use galvanized nails or special assembly adhesive.
The principle of this method is that at the junction of the components, it does not matter whether they are placed at a right angle or at 45 degrees, they are cut out tenon joints. One of the parts has the connection itself (tenks), and the second has grooves machined for it, into which it is tightly inserted.
Installing a frame in a doorway
This stage is best performed with an assistant, since door block can be heavy, especially if the door is used with a slab core, which can lead to operational difficulties. The structure is installed in the doorway in several stages:
- The structure is inserted into the opening and secured in it using wedges. Then, its position is completely aligned so that it stands perfectly relative to the horizontal and vertical axes. Once the exact position is determined, holes for dowels are drilled in the opening itself and the frame.
- When the structure is tightly fixed in the opening, you can begin preparing the door for hanging. First of all, the hinges are screwed to it, and the second part is fixed to the hinge beam. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the height, since the door will not be level. If everything is done correctly, after you hang the canvas, all the gaps will be respected.
- Then, the box is fixed; this can be done using polyurethane foam; it is also used when filling the gaps allowed between the beam and the opening.
- Once the work is completed, you can proceed to installing telescopic or simple platbands, cash registers and other accessories.
Errors during installation and assembly of the door frame
Not everyone can produce correctly without making mistakes. The most common of them:
- Incorrectly selected tools and screws, which can damage materials or make the structure fragile. For example, doors made of fiberboard have a fibrous structure and a different density, unlike PVC, which means that different fasteners must be used.
- Insufficient vertical alignment of the door can cause the door to open or close on its own.
- Inattention when observing the direction of opening doors.
- When working with polyurethane foam, it is important to consider that it tends to expand if applied too much. a large number of, the box may bend.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions to experienced installers; only an experienced installer can give good advice and warn against possible errors. If the steps are performed incorrectly, you have to purchase new material, which is not profitable and takes a lot of time.
