The easiest way to arrange a similar area central sewer- this is the construction of a drainage pit for Wastewater on one's own. Its arrangement can be divided into several stages.

Preparation stage

At this stage, it is necessary to make calculations - what size should the drainage pit equipped with with my own hands, the number of people whose accommodation is planned for suburban area. The volume of the drainage pit also directly depends on the intensity of use of various plumbing fixtures.

In addition to choosing the size, you need to determine exactly where the drainage pit will be organized with your own hands. The following rules should be followed:

• You need to choose a place based on location groundwater. Such places should be avoided so as not to contaminate the water that enters the house from a well or well located on the site. The location of groundwater can be determined using observations - for example, marshy plants grow well above groundwater located close to the surface. The water level in neighbors' wells can also indicate the depth of the aquifer. But accurate information can be obtained mainly through test drilling.
• The distance from the water source to the drainage pit should be at least 20–30 m. A hermetically sealed pit should be located no closer than 5 m from the house.
• If the area is uneven and has pronounced highs and lows, the drainage pit should be located in the lowest area for better flow of wastewater into it. In this case, taking into account precipitation, the hole needs to be made larger than planned.

Excavation

After selecting the location and volume of the drainage pit, it is necessary to carry out initial excavation. Digging a pit for a drainage hole for a small family is not so difficult.

The arrangement of the pit depends on whether it is planned to concrete the walls of the drainage pit or not. Sealed sewer will require regular cleaning of the pit from waste using a sewer service, just like a drain pit without a concrete bottom.

At the bottom of the prepared pit, drainage should be laid - a sand and gravel cushion. It will also become a filter for water that gradually goes into the ground. When concreting, the layer of sand and gravel can be made small - up to 10 cm. However, if such a cushion is planned as a natural filter, its thickness should not be less than 20 cm.

Construction of a drainage pit

Concreting the bottom is carried out using concrete mortar and reinforcement. A 5-10 cm layer of mortar is laid out on the prepared sand and gravel cushion, into which the reinforcement grid is recessed and another layer of concrete mortar is added. If you plan to use concrete rings for a sealed drain pit, when arranging the bottom, you need to deepen the walls so that the diameter of the bottom of the drain pit becomes larger than the diameter of the hole for the sewer pit.

After arranging the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to begin forming the walls. For this you can use:

• concrete rings,
• concrete mortar and reinforcement,
• bricks.

If you plan to use concrete rings as walls, you should arrange the drainage pit as follows:

1. After organizing the concrete bottom (the area of ​​which should be slightly larger than that of the ring), a concrete ring with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pit is placed directly above the pit.
2. Gradually removing the soil from under the ring, it is lowered to the surface level. Then they put a second ring on top and continue to remove the soil to the very bottom.
3. At the bottom, the joints of the ring and the concrete bottom must be processed concrete mortar for sealing.
4. If the bottom is simply a sand and gravel cushion, then the rings are simply lowered to the required depth, and the joints between them are sealed with cement mortar.

Concreting walls on your own will require not only manufacturing cement mortar from cement of a grade no less than M200, but also the arrangement of formwork from wooden planks. For greater strength, be sure to add reinforcement - metal rods at least 1 cm thick.

Drain pit, the walls of which are made of brickwork, are not necessarily built from whole brick. Broken bricks connected with cement mortar are quite suitable for organizing the sewer system of a private house.

When arranging a drainage pit, it is necessary to provide for the supply of sewer pipes from the house. In the upper part of the container you need to make a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the drain pipe. The void between the pipe and the walls of the hole is filled with sealant.

A sealed lid with a hatch must be placed on the prepared drainage pit.

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If in multi-storey buildings property owners do not think about the question of where to dispose of waste water and sewage, then for owners of private households the problem of waste and sewage disposal requires a permanent solution. They have no choice but to make a drainage hole with their own hands. This option for arranging a treatment plant is the simplest and most affordable during construction. on our own.

Landscaping begins personal plot from the installation of a water supply and sewerage system, since staying in nature cannot be called comfortable if you have to carry drinking water from a well and run to nearby bushes when needed.

There are several options for the disposal and processing of wastewater and sewage, but the simplest design is considered cesspool. It is necessary to have knowledge of how to properly make a drainage pit without the help of specialists, so that in the future you will not have problems with its operation and the environmental situation in the area adjacent to the house.

Types of drainage pits

Despite the simplicity of the design, drainage pits differ in the way they are implemented.

They are:

• sealed;
• filtering;
• two-chamber.

Drain pit sealed. The process of how to make a drainage pit with a completely sealed body has its own characteristics. This option is the safest from an environmental point of view, since all waste coming from home or outdoor toilet, fall into sealed sump and stay there until the sewer truck arrives.

When the pit is made airtight, sewage does not pollute the soil and groundwater. As a result, the ecological system will not be threatened, nor will the sources drinking water. The advantage of this treatment design is that it can be used regardless of hydrogeological conditions on the adjacent area.

But there are also disadvantages. Sewage and sewage accumulated in a sealed container must be periodically pumped out, and calling a sewer truck is not a cheap service. The frequency of pumping depends on the volume of the tank used.

In fact, sanitary standards prohibit the construction local sewerage such a design: when untreated wastewater gets into the ground, it can cause irreparable harm to the environment in a given area. They can even be a source of contamination of drinking water sources, and this is already extremely dangerous for human health.

This option, if currently used, is only for country houses, since the people living in them require a small amount of water. It is recommended to build filter-type waste pits only if the volume of waste during the day is no more than a cubic meter. When the amount of wastewater is small, it has time to be processed through natural decomposition.

Often pits of this type equipped during the construction of baths, steam rooms and for houses in which separation of wastewater is provided. In the latter case, it is necessary to lay two sewer branches and build two drainage pits on the site. The first of them, equipped with a filter type, receives waste water from washing machine, shower cabin, from the washbasin. These effluents are considered relatively clean.
Sewage from the toilet and water from the kitchen are directed into the second sealed pit.

Two-chamber drain pit. This solution to the waste disposal problem is considered practical and reasonable.

The operating principle of this treatment plant, shown in the photo, is as follows:

• a drainage pit, consisting of two chambers, is connected at the top by an overflow, the first of which is sealed, and the second is filtering;
• unseparated wastewater initially enters the first of the chambers, which is sealed, and settles there (mechanically separated);
• solid particles sink down to the bottom, and less contaminated water flows into the next chamber;
• from another chamber, water is filtered into the soil;
• The waste collected in the first chamber must be pumped out from time to time. To reduce the amount of waste, special biological preparations are used. The bacterial strains contained in them promote the processing of organic matter, which leads to a reduction in the amount of sewage.

How to make a drain hole correctly

Before making a drainage hole in a private house, you need to design a construction plan. It is necessary to select the type of structure, the location of construction and calculate the required volume of the tank.

Of course, the amount of waste is determined individually, but generally accepted standards also apply. For example, for a family that permanently lives in a house and has three members, they build a pit that can hold 6 cubic meters.

When calculating the volume of a container, the following points are taken into account:

• How affordable is the cost of services provided by vacuum cleaners;
• the volume of waste that sewage disposal equipment is capable of pumping out of a pit at one time.

Choosing a location for a drainage pit.

When determining where a sump should be made, a number of factors are taken into account:

• distance to the location of soil water. It should be sufficient to dig a pit two meters deep (this is the minimum value). Read also: " ".;
• the distance from the source of drinking water to the sump must be at least three tens of meters. It is extremely important to maintain the minimum distance from the well to the cesspool, for your own safety;
• you cannot make a cesspool on a slope;
• it is necessary to provide for the possibility of access of special equipment designed to clean the pit from the drain;
• It is prohibited to make a septic tank in the immediate vicinity of a residential building and the fence of a neighboring property. Minimum distance to a residential building should be 5 meters.

Thus, before making a drainage hole in your house, the location should be chosen very carefully to prevent contamination of the area surrounding the building, especially when the area is built up. In any case, the rules must be followed.

Selection of building materials for arranging a drainage pit.

When creating a sealed cesspool, the following materials are used:

When constructing a filter type drain pit, you can:

• cover it with bricks, leaving 5 centimeter gaps between the rows in a checkerboard pattern;
• install reinforced concrete rings for drainage wells with perforation into it;
• use car tires. They are laid on top of each other, cutting off the lower rim on each tire;
• use used metal or plastic tanks or barrels. The bottom should be cut off and holes should be made in the lower part to improve filtration of wastewater.

Making a drain hole with your own hands

There is a certain procedure for how to make a drain hole with your own hands correctly.

On initial stage prepare a pit and dig trenches for laying supply pipes.

The depth of the pit should be greater than the designed depth of the drainage pit, since space will be required for the drainage pad. It is made from layers of sand and crushed stone, which are carefully compacted.

If you plan to arrange sealed pit, then the thickness of the layers should be 10-15 centimeters. Place pillows on top or reinforced concrete slab, or fill concrete screed.

When installing a filter pit, for better wastewater purification minimum layer crushed stone should be 20 centimeters. Thanks to this measure, the bottom will not silt for a longer time.

Then you need to start strengthening the walls of the sump. To do this, make brickwork, or use plastic containers, or install concrete rings.

In the case when a sealed sump is being built, after the walls have been strengthened, waterproofing should be done.

At the same time, connect the supply pipeline to the tank receiving the wastewater. It is necessary that the connection of the pipes with the tank is both sealed and not rigid: then it will not collapse when the soil moves. Therefore, rubber couplings should be used for connection.

Approximately 40 centimeters from the surface of the earth, a cover for the sump is made. Usually a ready-made reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used. If desired, it is quite possible to make such a slab yourself, having previously made the formwork. The ceiling can also be constructed from boards, but it will not be durable.

In order to control the degree of filling of the tank and to pump out sewage, a hatch must be installed in the ceiling. In addition, a ventilation pipe should be mounted on the lid to remove gases (including methane) that are formed during the decomposition of the solid contents of the wastewater. You can pour soil on top of the ceiling, but so that precipitation cannot enter the pit.

When it is planned to create a local sewerage facility, for those home craftsmen who are new to this type of work, it will not be superfluous to know how to make a drainage pit for servicing a country household. Even if hired workers do the arrangement, it will be easier for the owner to monitor the quality of the services.

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
• sealed cesspool - for large quantity drains;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use a drainage pit. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting environment much smaller than a conventional latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has whole line advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area to organize a filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– optional equipment– to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, you don’t have to bury it completely in the ground by insulating it aboveground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and general dimensions pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. Upper fertile layer can be removed - it can be used to cover a septic tank and create a garden bed.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
3. It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. Made on clay soil sand and gravel bed. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.



5. It is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom a drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. The second is inserted ventilation tube with a diameter of 50 mm.





11. A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

People tend to travel outside the metropolis, to the countryside, to be closer to nature, fresh air and the earth. But one unpleasant discovery awaits them there - the absence of the usual city amenities, one of which is sewerage. No centralized system, traditional for the city, so for a comfortable stay you have to lay pipes for wastewater and get acquainted with such a concept as a drainage pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of country sewerage

A modern dacha is radically different from the village houses of the last century. Economic citizens replaced the toilets hastily knocked together in the yard with comfortable toilets, installed showers, bathtubs, washing and dishwashers. The question arose: where should dirty used water flow?

This is how elementary sewer system: a set of discharge pipes that lead to a storage tank mounted on summer cottage outside the building. Various structures can act as storage facilities: expensive station biological treatment, a simpler device is a septic tank or cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and sewage flow through pipes into a storage tank, from where they are removed by special equipment at different intervals.

Regular pumping of the contents of the sewage pit - required condition its use. The only way to effectively clean the drive is to call a vacuum cleaner

Most vacationers, especially those spending only a summer vacation at their dacha, dream of installing a suitable storage device quickly and cheaply. Perfect option in this case, a do-it-yourself drainage hole. To build it, you will need several days and a minimum of costs - mainly improvised materials: bricks, boards, cement.

Calculation of storage capacity

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each resident. But you need to take into account the incalculable water consumption during water procedures and use household appliances, so for a family of 4 people a tank of at least 6 m³ is required.

The inclination of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for complete pumping of sewage using sewage equipment - a specially designed hose that is lowered to the bottom

The size of the structure depends on the volume of incoming wastewater, but there are certain limits. For example, the depth of a country drainage pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage disposal equipment simply will not cope with the cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, length – 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The ground level must exceed the filling level of the pit by at least 1 meter. This is a kind of insurance against sewage spills beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to make a mistake in choosing a location. The question arises: how to properly make a pit for a drainage pit so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain tank in relation to residential building, water source and nearby obstacles

There are a number of rules:

• The minimum distance from the house to the storage device is 5 m.
• The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
• The pit must be located in an open space, not enclosed by buildings or fences.
• A prerequisite is a good access road for a sewage disposal truck.

It is necessary to consider the drainage pit as an object of increased danger, therefore the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

Example of building a brick pit

Stage #1 - excavation and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so if possible it is better to use an excavator. The most convenient shape is considered rectangular or square, but pits of a cylindrical configuration can also be found. During digging, you should monitor the condition of the walls: they should be smooth and protected from crumbling.

If you haven't had to do it before brickwork, it is better to choose a structure rectangular shape: Straight walls and corners are easier to shape

The design features of the drainage pit largely depend on the material. Let's take a closer look at the construction of a red brick storage tank with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be given a slight slope towards the hatch - for effective cleaning. Bottom layer – 15 cm sand cushion, then a layer of concrete, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multi-layer base, a reinforced concrete slab of suitable dimensions can be installed at the bottom.

Stage #2 - building walls

The material for constructing the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. Masonry is done traditional way– with the brick shifted halfway next row. Minimum thickness masonry – 0.25 m. Brick walls partially permeable to water, but how to make the drainage hole airtight? And it’s very simple - you just need to use bitumen mastic or similar waterproofing solution.

In the process of building a pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand are used, for example, boards and beams left over from the construction of a house

Attention! Only completely dry walls are coated with bitumen-based mastics.

Stage #3 - installation of the ceiling

The strongest floor is made of reinforced concrete. Wood and plastic are not suitable, as they have too short a service life. It's better if top part the structure will be blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. Design for concrete floor is created in several stages. Pour the first layer of mortar (5-7 cm), then lay iron rods on it and cover it with a second layer of concrete. When the ceiling has completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

On the surface of the earth, only the manhole cover remains visible. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a brick drainage pit; just basic skills in masonry and wall processing are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The advantages of a drain tank include the following factors:

• Ease of installation and maintenance. You can dig a hole and improve it yourself, and to clean it, you just need to call a sewer truck.
• Installation independent of soil type. IN sandy soil For greater strength, use a clay castle.
• Protection of groundwater from pollution. Concrete bottom and brick walls prevent wastewater from penetrating into the ground, but if it leaks, soil bacteria will cope with the cleanup.

Before you dig a storage drain hole, you should consider its negative sides. One of the noticeable troubles is the periodic smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help eliminate this problem.

A well-equipped road leading directly to the sewer pit is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. It is better to start building a road at the stage of building a house

You need to get used to frequent visits to vacuum cleaners - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does silting not occur. The service life of a brick storage tank is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If for some reason the cesspool is no longer suitable, you can install a more functional septic tank that performs mechanical and bacteriological treatment of wastewater.

All the conveniences of human habitation are associated with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. Owners of “summer residences” - dachas, small country houses– they try to arrange their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the simplest task; almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is solved by installing boreholes or wells. Most complex issue- device local sewerage- also has a standard solution: a drainage pit is built on the site with your own hands.

A drainage pit in a private house or country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage waste. Here by sewer pipes household waste is transported from toilets, from kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers.

Any wastewater treatment plants in anticipation of this simplest collection of sewage drains are not provided. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewage trucks, or after treatment with biological products, it is used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drainage pits

Drain pits are classified according to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

Based on this criterion, sewage waste collections are divided into two groups:

• superficial;
• underground.

Surface sewerage collectors

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, because sewer network In this case, you have to lay it on top. The required slope (from the “supplier” of wastewater – sink, toilet, etc. – to the collection tank) can only be ensured if all sources of wastewater are located above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to install surface drainage tanks in areas with high level groundwater.

Underground drainage pits

Underground sewage collection structures are the most common. Depending on the amount of drainage, the design of the drainage pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary standards Russia It is allowed to construct pits without sealing the bottom if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 m3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground tank is installed.

According to manufacturing materials

The following materials can be used to construct the drainage pit structure:

• ceramic brick;
• concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
• waste tractor tires;
• plastic;
• tree.

For constructing drainage pits with your own hands, concrete rings are the most unsuitable option. Their installation requires construction equipment - heavy products cannot be handled manually.

The simplest and cheap way arrangement of a drainage pit in a private house or on a summer cottage - decorating its walls with the help of tires. But this design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage drains getting into the soil.

Location – sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do whatever they want on their property, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict compliance with the rules and regulations in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drainage pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum permissible distances from waste storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

• to the water conduit (central) - 10 meters;
• to the underground gas pipeline – 5 meters;
• to the drinking well: 20 meters - at clay soils, 30 m – on loams, 50 m – on sandstones and sandy loams;
• to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
• to the fence (site boundary) – 1 meter.

It is also regulated maximum depth drainage pit: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance sanitary requirements may not only result in a fine, but in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case may be initiated.

In addition, when making a drainage hole at the dacha with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Advice: Practice shows that it is better to place the drainage pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

Installing a drainage pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer storage tanks. For his withdrawal ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe leading through the pit lid. Its dimensions are regulated building codes: diameter – 100 mm, height – not less than 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a method for cleaning the drain pit

Before building a drainage pit in a private house, you should decide very important question: How will you clean it? The amount of work to improve the site depends on this:

• if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewer truck, take care of organizing an access road;
• if you are ready to do the cleaning yourself, purchase plastic container with an airtight lid and find out in advance who will accept your waste. Don't forget about hand and respiratory protection. It would be better if it was a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator would do. Of course, you can't do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drainage hole, you need to worry not only about how to dig it, but also about how to clean it

Modern technologies can significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drainage pit if it fills quickly, or even make it virtually waste-free. It's about about microscopic helpers - capable of turning waste into enough clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drainage pit, but also diligently fight the unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind when deciding how to clean a drainage pit in a private house that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria cannot survive contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders have a detrimental effect on them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have done their work, all you have to do is use a pump to pump out the liquid component (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.