How to drain a bathhouse? This issue should be a priority, since properly built This structure will depend on the duration of operation of the bathhouse, protection of the foundation from fungus and unpleasant odors, comfort and ease of use.

Today, experts offer several options for how to make a floor in a bathhouse with a drain, and each of them can be done with your own hands.

Soil filtration is the simplest and cheapest way

During ground filtration, the water in the bathhouse will be drained directly into the ground. When choosing this method, you need to consider the following factors:

1. Safety of the foundation. Most often, a bathhouse is built on strip foundation, therefore, draining water from the bathhouse under the floor can lead to its destruction, and constant moisture will become an excellent environment for the growth of fungus.
2. Soil composition. If the soil has a clay base, then it will be impossible to drain the water from the bathhouse. Natural absorption will be minimal, and water will constantly collect under the floor.
3. Terrain. If the area is sloped, this can cause water to remain in one part of the foundation and cause its rapid destruction.

If the system is selected soil filtration for a bath, then the best option a soil purification well for water will be installed.

Craftsmen claim that the use of summer cottages Expensive sewer systems are not always justified. If the dacha is not used for permanent residence, then you can build a drain from an ordinary car tire. Using the given guide, you can complete the task in one day.

For the drainage pit, you need to take car tires from KAMAZ or UAZ vehicles. Having determined the tire size, you need to dig out drain hole. Car tires will be stacked on top of each other.

Drainage is poured at the bottom of such a well. The sewer pipe, which is located between the floors of the bathhouse, is led to the wheels, into a pre-cut hole.

As practice shows, wells made from tires - perfect option for any terrain, as they do not freeze and last a long period.

Drainage channel - the best choice

Many experts claim that at the dacha it is possible to build a bathhouse with a drain - a drainage channel.

The drainage system will work on the following principle: water flows by gravity into the sump through a metal chute located in the floors. From the gutter, water enters the sewer pipe, which ends in a drainage well.

When draining a bathhouse with your own hands, it is worth remembering the following important points:

1. Soil freezing level. The bottom of the well must be below the level, and the bottom must be covered with expanded clay.
2. In order to prevent freezing of the sewer pipe, it is worth filling the expanded clay above the freezing point, covering it with earth on top. The poured soil must be compacted.
3. Choice of flooring material. Many experts advise using floorboards, since they can always be dried. If the flooring is made permanent, then it should be with a slight slope towards the built-in drain.
4. When choosing a drainage channel, it is worth remembering the ventilation drain. It is done next to the drain, and the diameter of the ventilation pipe must be at least 10 cm.

Internal sewerage

Internal sewerage is the optimal choice for a drainage system in a bathhouse. Such a drain must be installed at the construction stage of the structure.

The work flow diagram looks like this:

1. Small trenches are dug with a slope of at least 2 cm per linear meter. The optimal trench depth is 0.5-0.6 m.


2. The bottom of dug ditches must be filled sand cushion. Its height is 15 cm. When filling the pillow yourself, you should remember the slope and careful compaction.
3. Pipe laying. When performing this stage of work, you need to ensure that all connections are present.
4. Scheme internal sewerage provide a drain for the toilet. It must be attached to the wall with clamps, and ventilation equipment is connected to it. The toilet pipe must be located above the level of the sanitary equipment and have a check valve.
5. When the internal sewage system is assembled, they move on to flooring. Sewer outlets should be equipped with grates so that water flows freely into the gutters and large debris remains on the floor.

When performing the internal sewerage of a bathhouse with your own hands, it is worthwhile to provide for the presence of water seals in all areas of the water intakes. This will help avoid unpleasant odors indoors.

Options for arranging a drain well

The drainage system from the bathhouse also includes a drain well. Experts offer several ways to construct such wells.

These can be plastic or metal containers, reinforced concrete structures. The main condition proper functioning design is the chosen location. The drain well should be located at the lowest point on the site so that water can flow by gravity from the bathhouse. Choosing a place for future design, you need to take into account the possibility of unhindered access for the sewer truck.

How to make a drain well?

1. We need to dig a hole. This process is performed independently or by calling an excavator. The dug hole should have smooth edges and not crumble.
2. Bottom preparation. In order to easily and smoothly clean the bottom in the future, it needs to be made at a slight slope directed towards the hatch. A sand cushion and a layer of concrete are placed at the bottom of the pit.
3. When the concrete bottom is dry, you can proceed to laying the brick walls. Optimal choice will become a red brick. The thickness of the masonry should not be less than 0.25 m. When carrying out the masonry, it is worth leaving a hole for the entrance of the sewer pipe.
4. The brickwork must be carefully sealed.
5. A hatch is installed on the completed well and filled with soil so that there is only one hatch on the surface.

If it is possible to buy reinforced concrete rings for a well, this will speed up and facilitate the work process.

Drainage structures in a bathhouse are systems without which it does not function.

When building a bathhouse, it is imperative to arrange a high-quality drain. In this case, the smell from stagnant water will not enter the room in the future. The floors will last much longer. There are several options for installing a water drainage system from a washing room and steam room. We'll talk about them further.

The simplest drain in a bathhouse

First, let's see how to drain a bathhouse simplest design. If the soil under the building is sandy and easily absorbs water, you don’t have to “bother” and install the receiver directly in it. In this case, a hole is dug under the sink, and the floors are made slightly inclined towards it. To prevent unpleasant odors from penetrating into the bathhouse, vent holes are made in the foundation. However, more often the drain has more complex design. In this case, when pouring the foundation, if it is a strip foundation, a hole is left in it for the drainage pipe.

Trench and pipe for drainage

Of course, you will need to dig a trench under the pipe through which the water will drain. Don't make the drain run too long.

You should also not dig a drainage well or install a septic tank very close to the foundation. The optimal distance from the walls of the bathhouse to the receiver is 1-3 m. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the trench. The question of how to make a drain in a bathhouse also comes down to what pipe material and what diameter should be used. Usually plastic ones are used for water drainage devices. Steel drainage will quickly rust. The diameter of the pipe depends on how many people will bathe in the washroom at the same time. The minimum allowable is 50 mm. The trench should be dug at an angle. The steeper the pipe is inclined, the better.

Receiver-well

We found out how to drain a bathhouse. Where will the used water go? An ordinary well is most often installed as a receiver. Its depth should be at least 1.5 meters. The diameter depends on the amount of water taken. One person spends about 20 liters of water in a bathhouse per visit. Five people will thus spend 100 liters. A well diameter of one meter is sufficient for this amount of water. Next, the receiver needs to be filled halfway with expanded clay or crushed stone. The walls are coated with clay. The top of the well is covered with boards and filled with earth. The pipe should enter it at a distance of approximately 60-70 cm from the upper boundary of the soil. This will prevent wastewater from freezing in winter.

Receiver-septic tank

If you wish, you can arrange not a well near the bathhouse (photo below), but a simple septic tank. It is made from an ordinary standard plastic barrel. A hole is also first dug. You need to dig down to the sandy layer of soil. Usually it is located at a depth of 1-1.5 meters. Next, as in the first case, a layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom. It must be compacted.

A hole is drilled in the side of the barrel for a pipe, which will subsequently be connected to the drain pipe. Any septic tank must have a connection with open atmospheric air. To ensure air exchange, a hole is drilled in the middle in the bottom of the barrel for an exhaust pipe of small diameter. If this is not done, when the air pressure in the barrel increases during the flow of water, it will simply be squeezed out through the drain pipe into the bathhouse along with an unpleasant odor.

Next, a pipe is inserted into the side hole, and an exhaust pipe is mounted into the hole cut out in the bottom. Then the barrel is placed in the hole with the bottom up. Then the socket of the pipe is put on a pipe coming out of the ground, through which water is drained from the bathhouse. Even if the crushed stone at the bottom of the pit is compacted very carefully, the barrel may still sag over time. To prevent the pipe from slipping off the pipe, it is drilled to the sides with two self-tapping screws. After installation, the space between the walls of the barrel and the walls of the pit is filled with crushed stone. Next, the structure is covered with earth.

Since the septic tank is located outside, someone could step on it from above. Therefore, in order to prevent the bottom of the barrel from being pressed through, before filling it should be covered with boards or a piece of thick tin.

Drainage device in the bathhouse itself

The drain in the bathhouse floor can be arranged in several ways. In any case, the soil under the floor is concreted with a slope towards the pipe. A small receiving pit-tray is arranged around it. This is necessary so that the water leaves the bath faster. The floors are laid on joists. The latter are placed on concrete or brick square pillars erected on this concrete foundation. The top of the logs must be waterproofed with mastic or roofing felt. Next, the floor boards are installed. Sometimes they are not nailed down, but simply laid at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Water flows into these cracks. From time to time, the boards are removed and dried in the open air. Such floors are called leaky floors.

Of course, such a floor arrangement is not very convenient. Firstly, when walking, the boards will move, and secondly, in winter, water will leak from the cracks. cold air. Therefore, bathhouse floors are often made permanent.

Tiled floor in the bathhouse

Sometimes a tiled floor can be used. People also go to bathhouses to relax and unwind. And since ceramics is a slippery material, and, moreover, it also heats up at high temperatures, it is usually additionally covered with wooden shields for ease of movement. From below, so that the surface of the latter is horizontal, the bars are filled different thicknesses. Just like leaky wood floors, these boards need to be dried out from time to time.

Clay floor in the bathhouse

The clay version of the covering is also a rather interesting floor device. It is quite pleasant to walk in bathhouses with such finishing, since this material has a very low degree of thermal conductivity. In this case, instead of concrete mortar, a clay mixture is simply used. However, such floors have one significant drawback. When wet, clay swells noticeably. After drying, it returns to its original size, but cracks greatly. Subsequently, water begins to stagnate in the cracks. As a result, an unpleasant odor appears in the bathhouse.

Water seal device

This is how the floor is installed. It is pleasant to wash in a bathhouse with any of these coating options only if there is a so-called water seal. Without it, cold and bad-smelling air from the receiving pipe may begin to enter the room. A water seal can be made by simply installing a special pipe on the pipe leading into the tray. a plastic cup on legs. As water enters the receiver, it will lift it and go down the drain. Air will not get into the bathhouse from the pipe. The receiving tray should be covered with a grill. This will prevent leaves from brooms and other debris from getting into the drain.

Insulated floor in the bathhouse

If you intend to use the bathhouse in winter period time, it is worth installing insulated floors in it. In this case, first a subfloor is filled, onto which expanded clay is poured or expanded polystyrene is laid. In this case, a receiving chute is drawn in the middle. Next on the logs different heights the finishing floor is being filled. It should be with the boards sloping from the walls to the gutter. Before filling the expanded clay, the subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier. Waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation. The gaps between the finished floor boards are sealed. Expanded clay for insulation is suitable only mixed - at least from two fractions of different sizes.

Insulation on screed

Thus, we have found out how to make a drain in a bathhouse and what the floors should be like. Now let's look at how to do it right concrete base under cover. Before pouring it, the soil is thoroughly compacted, making a slight slope towards the receiving tray. After this, a layer of crushed stone of about 10-15 cm is poured onto it. The foundation should be protected by laying a layer of clay near it. Next, everything is filled with concrete. If desired, floor insulation can be arranged at this stage. In this case, a thin screed is poured over the crushed stone. A layer of expanded clay is poured onto it. Next, the main concrete floor is poured. This layer must be reinforced. The easiest way is to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. After pouring, the concrete surface must be leveled as thoroughly as possible using a board.

How to properly prepare concrete mortar

Of course, the concrete floor of the bathhouse should be as reliable as possible. Therefore, the solution should be prepared strictly adhering to the established technology. The sand must be taken coarse and must be sifted. Only the highest grades of cement are used for constructing a concrete bath floor. M400 is best suited. The kneading is done in a ratio of 1:3. You need to mix the ingredients as thoroughly as possible. It is best to do this using special equipment. It is very difficult to prepare a homogeneous composition manually. The presence of unmixed parts noticeably weakens the poured structure.

Shower in the bath

A shower in a bathhouse is quite rare. Its simplest option is a regular bucket suspended above the entrance to the steam room. However, you can use other, simpler in design, but somewhat more “advanced” options. After all, contrasting water treatments actually very useful. You can, for example, install a tank on the ceiling and lead a pipe into the bathhouse from the ceiling. Next, a regular watering can is connected to it. Water can be pumped into the tank from a well through a hose. In this case, the shower drain can be arranged according to the same principle as the main bath drain. Most often, used water simply leaves the bathhouse through a common receiver.

Bath design diagrams

The drain is not the only feature of such an unusual building as a bathhouse. It will be convenient only if correct layout the location of its premises. Therefore, finally, let's look at what the bathhouse layout should be. There are many options for the location of the steam room, washing room and locker room. If you wish, you can develop your own project. However, you should follow some basic rules:

• It is best to place the stove in the middle of the building, so that it is possible to heat not only the steam room and washing room, but also the locker room. Otherwise, dressing in winter after visiting the bathhouse will be cold. If the building is large, it is worth installing two ovens.
• Even in a very small bathhouse, it is advisable to equip a vestibule with an area of ​​at least a square meter. If Entrance door will be located too close to the street, in winter it will begin to freeze to the frame due to condensation.
• If you plan to host gatherings with beer in the bathhouse in the future, it is worth allocating some space for a toilet.

Dimensions of the bathhouse premises

The layout of the bathhouse, of course, should also include information such as the dimensions of its premises. When drawing up a project, it is worth taking into account the minimum allowable area per person:

• For a locker room - 2-4 m2.
• For a washing room - 2.7 m2.
• For a steam room - 2-3 m 2.

Based on these figures and knowing how many people will wash at the same time, the required area of ​​the building will not be difficult to calculate.

How to rationally arrange rooms

Most often, two entrances are arranged in the vestibule: one to the washing room, behind which there is a steam room, the second to the locker room. This is really the most convenient scheme. In small bathhouses, the vestibule usually serves as a changing room. To finally decide what the building should be like, you can look at different drawings of the bathhouse. One of them is presented to your attention on this page just above. And this is how saunas are built in Europe:

Thus, having carried out the planning correctly, arranging good drain, as well as having completed all other work with strict adherence to the required technologies, you can build a comfortable and durable bathhouse on suburban area. If you don’t have any particular desire to build something yourself, you can order it from construction organization such a service as a turnkey bathhouse. In this case, our recommendations will help you monitor the work of the hired team.

Today, bathhouses are built not only in villages, but also in dachas and cottage communities. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to determine how to drain the water from the bathhouse. Since time immemorial, drainage has been carried out directly under the building, where it goes into the ground. But then there was no such density of population and special unsanitary standards, which today it is not only stupid to ignore, but also unsafe.

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties with waterlogging of your site or disputes with sanitary and epidemiological inspection, we will consider how water will be drained from it, with the lowest cost and maximum comfort for others.

Water drainage methods

So how can you organize a device for draining water from a bathhouse?

The following options can be considered the most popular and widely used:

• draining water directly under the bath;
• discharge to the general sewer;
• arrangement on ;
• uniform distribution of water throughout the area using drainage pipes.

Advice. You need to ask yourself how to drain water in a bathhouse even at the planning stage, and if you decide to drain moisture outside the building (into a septic tank, into a sewer), then you need to take this into account when laying the foundation.
Sleeves are placed in the strip base, through which the outlet pipes will pass.

Foundation drain

The method with a drain pit is used if you do not visit the steam room very often and in the amount of no more than 1-3 people. In this case, directly under the floor of the used water.

For better absorption, the walls are not lined with solid masonry, but in a checkerboard pattern, which will allow moisture to escape not only through the bottom of the pit, but also to the sides. Unfortunately, this method has a significant drawback: in winter, water can freeze and damage the foundation.

Using central sewerage

If there is an opportunity on or near the site to cut a pipe into a centralized sewer system, this option is the most preferable. You only need to connect or connect to the sewer pipe, and the question of how to organize water drainage will never bother you again.

But if there is no sewer pipe near your site, you will have to solve this problem yourself, fortunately, it is not difficult to do it yourself, even alone.

Septic tank and filtration

This system for draining water in a bathhouse and cleaning it is deservedly considered the most expensive, but at the same time it allows not only to efficiently organize the drainage of water in a bathhouse, but also to use this water for agricultural purposes.

To do this, you need to install septic tanks in which the water is purified and then flows through a pipe into the collector, from where it is used for irrigation. But the disadvantage of such a system is its price, which includes regular replacement of filters and the introduction of microorganisms that take over the purification process.

Drain pit

This is the most used method for draining not only used water, but also sewage from a private home. It’s not at all difficult to make and next instruction, will tell you how to do it correctly.

Choosing a location and arrangement of a pit

According to the rules and regulations of the location cesspool it should be no closer than 12 meters from the living space. This rule should be taken as a basis when organizing the removal of moisture from the washing room. When choosing the type of pit, you must consider whether you will clean it regularly or allow for the absorption of moisture into the soil. The second option is preferable due to the fact that it requires less costs not only during construction, but also during operation.

However, you must take into account that a pit without a bottom can only be built if there is no surface groundwater and if no more than 1 cubic meter of water is drained per day.

Otherwise, the bottom and walls of the cesspool must be completely isolated from the ground. This is achieved by laying the walls with bricks and concreting the bottom of the pit.

Since the concepts of bathhouse and water drainage are inseparable, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the future waste receptacle.

Most optimal sizes are:

• length not less than 1.5 m and not more than 3 m;
• width from 2m to 3m;
• depth from 1.5m to 3m.

Such dimensions will provide you with sufficient volume of the structure for the trouble-free functioning of your bathhouse, even with frequent visits.

Operating procedure

1. You need to start by digging a pit. This can be done manually, but if it is possible to use an excavator, be sure to use it.

Tip: Excavation work is the most heavy look work, and you will soon begin to understand this when you decide to take up a shovel yourself.
With the help of an excavator, for a small fee, within half an hour you will have a pit of the required volume on your site.

1. The walls and bottom of the pit need to be leveled. This can be done manually by trimming with a bayonet shovel. Such work will not require a lot of effort and time.
2. Fill the bottom of the hole with gravel mixed with sand, this will slightly improve moisture absorption and prevent clay and earth from penetrating into the hole.
3. Now you can start laying out the walls with bricks. The masonry is done in a checkerboard pattern, from the bottom to the very top.

1. The last step is to make a concrete floor with a hole 30-50 cm in diameter for cleaning and the intake hose.
2. Now all you have to do is let us down sewer pipes, through which water will flow out of the bathhouse.

Only clay and well-fired bricks are suitable for lining a pit; it is not recommended to use silicate or pressed briquettes of unknown composition.

Conclusion

The choice of technology that will ensure drainage of water in the bathhouse depends not only on your financial opportunities, but also on how often and by how many people the washroom will be used at the same time. The video in this article will also help you.

During the construction of a bathhouse Special attention attention should be paid to proper organization of the water drainage system. If everything is done correctly, fungus will never appear in the sauna and there will be no unpleasant odors. And the building itself will last much longer.

Floors in the bathhouse - selecting a suitable base

A Russian bathhouse or sauna in your own countryside is the dream of many people. Bringing it to life is not that difficult. It is enough to understand all the features of the construction and arrangement of the steam room, in particular, the rules for organizing drainage in it. This issue needs to be given increased attention. If you do not organize effective drainage of waste water from the sauna, within a couple of years after the start of operation, its foundation, floor base and lower parts of the walls will become unusable. Naturally, very soon all these problems will cause the destruction of the building.

It’s really possible to do the drain in the bathhouse with your own hands, but first we need to deal with everything existing options drainage system, select optimal system, and only after that start arranging the drain. The first issue to be resolved is related to the type of flooring in the steam room. They can be done:

• concrete;
• wooden.

A concrete floor is ideal for a permanent sauna, in which water treatments are taken throughout the year. Such a base consists of several successive layers. Compacted gravel comes first, then concrete mortar, vapor barrier gasket, heat insulator (it is best to use polystyrene foam boards). The insulation is covered with polyethylene, which acts as a water protector. Another layer of concrete is laid on it. The entire structure is secured with a reinforced cement screed. At the very end, the concrete base is covered with tiles (ceramics) or other finishing material.

A wooden floor is much faster and easier to build. It is installed in bathhouses used exclusively in the warm season. The costs for wooden foundations are significantly less than for concrete ones. But there is one problem. Even with careful processing of wood special. compositions, after some time it will begin to deteriorate under the influence of moisture and high temperature. After 5–6 years of operation, such a floor will have to be completely re-laid. This should be kept in mind when choosing the type of base for your bath.

Wooden floors are structurally divided into non-leaking and leaking. The first of these are always laid on a pre-made concrete screed (it must have a certain slope). Non-leaking structures are prone to rotting, since after using the steam room they take quite a long time to dry. From this point of view, leaky floors are more convenient to use. They are simply laid on the joists without rigid attachment to the latter. The boards are laid with small (about 5 mm) gaps. It is through them that water is removed from the surface of the flooring. At any time, such a floor can be removed, taken outside under the hot sun and dried.

If you plan to build a leaky foundation, you should make a pit (preferably sealed) under the sauna and connect a pipe to it, through which the drainage will be carried out.

Wastewater disposal systems - pros and cons during operation

Having figured out the type of flooring, we move on to selecting a suitable drainage system. There are several options for arranging a drain:

• soil filtration technique;
• installation of a drainage well;
• pit.

The choice of a particular system depends on the geometric parameters and frequency of use of the bathhouse, the availability of centralized sewerage or lack thereof, the depth to which the soil freezes, and directly the type of soil present. If in own sauna a person plans to go with two or three friends a couple of times a week; there is no particular need to organize complex drainage (for example, ground filtration). IN similar situations you can get by at low cost by building a simple pit or well for waste water. If the bathhouse becomes permanent place collection large quantity lovers of hot steam will have to take care of arranging a more sophisticated and efficient system.

On clay-type soils, it is best to make a drainage hole. Used water will flow into it from the bathhouse through pipes and then be pumped out. For sandy and similar soils, systems in the form of drainage wells are more suitable. We also take into account the most important requirement - the pipes through which water will be drained must be laid below the freezing level of the soil. If you mount them above the specified mark, in very coldy they will freeze, and we will not be able to fully use the private bathhouse.

Let's talk about the pros and cons different systems plum. And then we’ll find out exactly how each of them is mounted. Let's start with the simplest system - a pit. It is essentially a hole that is dug under the floor base of the steam room. A layer of filter material is placed at the bottom of the pit. Water passes through it, is purified, and then gradually seeps into the soil. The pit does not require pipes or any other communications to operate. Its arrangement takes a minimum of time. These are definitely advantages. But this solution also has disadvantages. Firstly, a pit cannot be made on soils that do not absorb water well. Secondly, it cannot be installed in saunas with a foundation in the form monolithic slab. Thirdly, even a deep pit is characterized by an objectively low throughput potential.

It won't be much more expensive to install a drainage well. This is understood as a sealed tank for collecting wastewater, buried in the ground. When it is full, the owner of the bathhouse calls a sewer truck. She pumps out the water. Any summer resident will make a drainage system, spending a minimum of effort on the work. Here you just need to choose the right place to install the tank. It should be installed on the lowest plot of land. No special maintenance is required for the drain well. The disadvantages of the system are the need to regularly call special equipment to pump out water and to arrange fairly wide access routes to the tank. The sewer truck will not pass along the narrow path.

A drainage well is a deep and wide hole that is filled with a layer of filter element. This may include furnace slag, small pieces of bricks, crushed stone, construction sand. Digging a hole is easy. Cover it with filtrate too. But maintaining the drainage system is not at all easy. The wastewater is not pumped out of it. They go into the ground. In this case, at least once every 5-6 months you need to completely change the filter layer and clean the well. Such an operation requires considerable labor costs, which negates all the advantages of the system.

We will consider the advantages and disadvantages of the ground filtration method below. And we’ll immediately describe how exactly such a system is made professional builders. She is considered the most effective option drainage of wastewater from private saunas.

Soil filtration - how effective and durable?

The method of soil wastewater treatment requires the installation of a complete sewer system. It includes pipes for collecting and draining water and a special septic tank. The latter plays the role of a distribution well and at the same time a settling tank. Some craftsmen assemble a septic tank on our own, but more often it is bought in finished form in specialized stores. The advantages of the system are high-quality purification of heavily polluted water, completely autonomous operation, and no need to call in equipment to pump out the well. Disadvantages - a huge amount of land (very labor-intensive) work, considerable cost of used Supplies and equipment, the need to allocate a large area for the installation of a septic tank.

A step-by-step guide to setting up a ground filtration system is provided below. First, we decide on the location of the septic tank. We bury it 150–250 cm into the soil. Then we connect the sewer pipe to the installed container. We remind you! It should be laid below the freezing mark of the ground. After this, we prepare perforated drainage pipes (the so-called drains). We select their cross-section and length taking into account the volume of wastewater. In most cases, plastic products with a cross-section of 110 cm are used as drains. You can also use other pipes by drilling a number of holes in them.

It is not advisable to take the length of one drainage pipe more than 25 m. The pipes are laid in trenches about 1 m wide (minimum 50 cm). The distance between individual drains must be maintained at least 150 cm. The system installation process itself looks like this:

1. 1. We draw up a diagram for laying drains. We dig a trench with a slope of about 1.5°, checking its accuracy with a building level.
2. 2. If the soil is sandy, we make a cushion of gravel and sand at the bottom of the trench (the thickness of each layer is 10 cm), and then lay geotextiles on top. For clay soils the procedure is similar. But in this case there is no need to use geotextile material. It is allowed not to make a pillow on loams. In this case, the pipes must be wrapped in geotextiles. In this way we will reduce the risk of siltation of the system.
3. 3. Lay the prepared drains. At their end we install a half-meter (slightly more) pipe for ventilation.
4. 4. Fill the drains with 10 cm of gravel. Fill the trench to the top with a layer of soil.
5. 5. Cover the ventilation outlet. pipes with a protective cap. It will prevent leaves and debris from entering the ventilation duct.

The soil drainage filtration system is ready! If properly installed, it will serve trouble-free for at least 15 years. But after a specified period of time, you will have to change the cushion under the drains, since it will gradually silt up during the operation of the sewer.

Making a pit - a simple and quick operation

As noted, drainage from small, rarely used baths can be organized using a pit. The diagram of its device is as follows:

1. 1. We dig a hole under the future floor base of the steam room.
2. 2. We fill our mini-pit with a layer of crushed stone, expanded clay or broken brick.
3. 3. Pour sand on top.
4. 4. Install wooden joists on top of a pit with a filter pad made.
5. 5. Lay the boardwalk on the mounted supporting elements. As you remember, we install lumber not closely, but with gaps.

Boards can be nailed to the joists. But it’s better not to do this in order to be able to periodically remove the flooring and dry it outside.

Some craftsmen make an improved pit. It serves as a collector for wastewater, which, after reaching a given level, goes into the sewer. This pit option is also quite simple to construct. We dig a cubic hole under the floor. We take the length of the ribs of such a pit to be at least 50 cm. We protect the walls and bottom of the pit from moisture. The easiest and most reliable way is to fill them concrete mixture. Although you can use any roll waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt.

Further, at a height of approximately 10 cm from floor base we bring the pipe to the pit. We take it outside the building on a slope (otherwise the drains will not be able to leave the pit by gravity). We install a water seal. It is a device that does not allow unpleasant sewer odors enter the steam room. The simplest water seal is a metal plate installed at a slight angle. Its lower end should be about 5 centimeters away from the bottom of the pit. The shutter can also be made from an ordinary rubber ball. It should be secured above the pit (directly above the drain). When the tank is empty, the ball covers the pipe, and when the tank is filled, it floats up and the water flows freely through the pipe.

Building a drain well - a practical option

A drainage pit is rightfully considered the most rational way to organize drainage from a bathhouse. We need to dig a hole and install a metal or plastic tank in it. This option does not require serious expenditure of effort. But also durability drainage structure it turns out not very big. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer other methods of arrangement. similar system. They make pits from reinforced concrete rings or line the walls of the well with bricks. In this case, the structure becomes more reliable, due to which its service life is significantly increased.

Working with reinforced concrete products is difficult. And here brickwork It’s quite possible for any self-taught master to do it. Let us describe the last option for organizing the drain step by step:

1. 1. We choose a place for a well, remembering that it is always located at the lowest point of the land plot. In addition, we need to immediately take care of arranging the access to the drainage pit for the machine pumping out the wastewater.
2. 2. We dig a hole of the planned size. It is recommended to make it rectangular or square. Then the volume earthworks it will be smaller. We make sure that the walls of the pit are smooth and dense (we do not allow soil to fall off them).
3. 3. We make the bottom of the pit with a slope, directing it towards the hatch.
4. 4. Pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand into the hole and tamp it down. Pour concrete mortar on top. It is allowed to install a finished slab (reinforced concrete) on the bottom. Due to this, it is possible to reduce the time required for the work, since you do not have to wait several weeks for the concrete solution to completely harden.

Now we begin laying the walls of our drain structure. We carry out the operation using new or used red brick. We make the masonry 25–30 cm thick. We install the bricks with an offset of half a stone. We fix the products with a composition made up of sand, clay and water. We install a pipe in one of the walls for the wastewater entering the well.

Brick is a permeable material. Therefore, the masonry needs to be additionally sealed. We use any bitumen mastic. We apply it strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After waterproofing the walls, we install a ceiling on the well. It should be 25–30 cm larger than the pit (on each side). It is advisable to make the ceiling from reinforced concrete. This design has a considerable weight, but is distinguished by its durability and unique strength.

The process of installing the ceiling is as follows: we assemble the formwork, fill it with concrete (layer - about 7 cm), install metal fittings, add another layer of concrete on top. We are waiting for the ceiling to harden. After the concrete has crystallized, we install a hatch in the center of the slab. We take plastic film. We cover the flooded floor with it and fill it with soil. Only the hatch remains on the surface of the earth. Through it, wastewater will be pumped out from the brick tank after the tank is filled to a critical level.

Drainage structure - how to do it?

A drainage well is made exclusively in areas where groundwater run very deep. If they are located high, the structure we are interested in will not be able to perform its function. It will begin to fill with groundwater, and the drainage from the bathhouse will simply have nowhere to collect. The drainage well should be dug 2–2.5 m from the walls of the building. If, the risk of subsidence or wetting of the foundation will increase. With a smaller distance between the wall of the building and the pit, we will not be able to organize the required slopes to ensure gravity flow of water.

Having chosen a suitable place, we dig a cylindrical hole in the ground. Theoretically, the well can have any other shape. But practice shows that cylindrical pits are much less likely to need repair work. In addition, they mark a uniform distribution of loads on the walls. We can choose any depth and size of the well. For large and actively visited baths, the parameters of the well, of course, should be more impressive than for saunas that their owners use only from time to time.

• Laying walls with brick or wild stone. Important! We lay the products with small gaps. They are needed to naturally remove moisture.
• Installing containers made of metal or plastic. Before installing it in a hole in the tank, you need to make holes on the sides and cut off the bottom.
• Laying several old car tires on top of each other.
• Installation of slate sheets. This option is suitable for wells in the shape of a rectangle or square.

We fill the reinforced pit with crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay, making a cushion 10–15 cm high. Then we cover it with sand (the thickness is similar). We dig a trench to the well from the sauna (don’t forget about the slope, optimally if it is 1 cm for every meter). We put it in it drain pipe. We put the last one into the drainage hole. After this, you need to install a cover on the well. It is better to make it metal and always removable. After all, we will have to regularly maintain the drainage pit, changing the filter layer in it and cleaning it. All that remains is to cover the lid with polyethylene and fill the structure with soil.

Choose suitable option sewerage for the bathhouse and do all the work ourselves. Guided by the given instructions, we will arrange a truly effective system drainage.

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their property. But before you start building it, you need to carefully think through and properly organize drainage. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bathhouse, which do not require large financial investments and a connection to the general city sewer system. High-quality drainage washing bath will help ensure the long life of your floors and foundations, and will also prevent mold and mildew from forming on your walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bathhouse

Drainage in the bathhouse can be carried out different ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bathhouse. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking ones, as well as concrete ones. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for drainage of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, a floor in the bathhouse is laid with a slope, and special gutters and drainage ladders are installed. Any waste system in the bathhouse should be arranged before laying the floors.

When choosing to create an external sewage system for a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

• Intensity of use of the bath;
• Dimensions of the building;
• Type of soil and depth of freezing;
• Sewage system (its presence or absence);
• Is it possible to connect to the central system?

The above aspects are among the most important when determining drainage.

For a small bathhouse where one or two people will steam several times a month, there is no need to create a complex sewer system. It will be enough to dig a regular drain hole or a small pit under the bathhouse.

The type of soil is of great importance when creating drainage. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to do drainage well. In clayey soils, it is better to equip a drainage pit from which the wastewater will need to be pumped out periodically. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the ground, since water in pipes that are laid above the required level will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bathhouse to simply flow out and be absorbed into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a settling tank, where the wastewater will settle and be purified, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most difficult and in an expensive way The water outlet is to install a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and crushed stone. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters a well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of sludge in which microorganisms live that purify the water.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in a bathhouse

Let's consider Various types drainage systems, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This sealed pit from reinforced concrete concrete, in which water coming from the bathhouse accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

• Simplicity of the device;
• Does not require maintenance;
• Low cost.

Flaws:

Drainage well

This water drainage system consists of a pit containing filtrate that purifies wastewater. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

• Low cost;
• Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

This system consists of a hole that is dug just under the washroom floor. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which allows waste water to flow through it, gradually going into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

• There is no need for piping;
• Low cost of the device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly drains and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

• Works offline;
• Can be used to create a sewer system with several points for receiving waste water;
• It can even clean “black” drains if you install an anaerobic septic tank.

Flaws:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to install external structures for receiving and processing wastewater. But here you will have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

Internal sauna drainage system

The washing room inside the bathhouse is equipped taking into account the future drainage and the selected floors. Draining should be done in such a way that no moisture remains in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

1. Leaky wooden floors are the most widespread, as they are the simplest option for draining a bathhouse. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3–4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room flows into the pit without hindrance. Such floors are dismountable so that the boards can be properly dried. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for drainage, since the water will be absorbed into the ground under the bathhouse.
2. Non-leakage floors are installed with a slope towards the drain, through which waste water will flow into the drainage basin and then into the sewer. Also, water can flow into any chosen drainage system.
3. Concrete floors are easy to maintain, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for setting up a washing room in a bathhouse. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain so that water can quickly and easily flow into the selected sewage system.

Preparing for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of a wooden leaky floor with a drain. Must be carried out before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bathhouse, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide a drain in the steam room.

In the sauna sewer, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is necessary to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and washing room are located in different rooms, then a gutter for water drainage is laid under the ceiling between them.

Under the wooden floor, it is necessary to make a concrete base with a slope towards the central part, where the gutter will go, connecting to the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a stainless or galvanized steel tray on the floor under the flooring.

Video: installation of a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of a bathhouse

When installing self-leveling floors on which the tiles will be laid, it is necessary to maintain a slope, where at the lowest point a drain is installed to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

• To install a sewerage system inside a bathhouse, it is necessary to use modern, durable plastic pipes that have a long service life and will therefore serve for many years. They are not afraid of moisture, are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron, and are also easy and simple to assemble yourself without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are excellent for installing internal sewerage in a bathhouse, they are flexible in any processing, and can also be with or without a socket. Service life more than 50 years.
• Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, for the installation of a free-flow drain, pipes with a smooth surface are required. inner surface walls, and asbestos-cement products often have rough inner walls with indentations.

Types of plastic pipes:

• PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
• PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride pipes);
• PP (polypropylene products);
• HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
• Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for internal structure plum in the bath. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bathhouse and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bathhouse with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10–11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be sufficient to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating drainage and tools

To install internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need PVC pipes gray, as well as joints and adapters.

• The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drainage system.
• We will also need tees size and angle 110–110–90° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
• Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
• Horizontal sewer pipes – Ø11 cm;
• Vertical pipes for the installation of water drainage receivers – Ø11 or 5 cm.
• For connecting pipes different diameters You will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
• For external sewerage of the bath you will need pipes orange color(PVC).

For work we will need:

• Bayonet shovel (special equipment);
• Building level;
• Grinder with cutting wheel;
• Sand;
• Cement;
• Crushed stone.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for making various drain designs in a bathhouse

Before considering the drainage system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire sewer system internal system in the bathhouse is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The drain trap is a siphon that has a water seal that prevents unpleasant odors from entering the washing room, and it also serves as a grate that prevents large debris from entering the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor towards the drainage ladder.

A drain ladder must be installed in bathhouses.

Video: system of functioning of a drain with a water seal in the washing room of a bathhouse

1. First we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this we dig trenches.
2. At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50–60 centimeters relative to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30–40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80–100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
3. From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. Pour sand approximately 5–10 cm thick into the bottom of the trench and compact it well, maintaining the required slope.
4. We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
5. We install the drain pipes vertically (1 and 2 for drains). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes with a small margin of length. During the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
6. We install the sewerage system according to the specified diagram.

In the construction industry, the depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. IN middle lane the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north at least 150–180 cm.

To prevent the drains from freezing, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for drainage. Now we need to try to drain a certain volume of water to check the correct angle of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of ​​the septic tank, taking into account that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq/m of sandy soil is about 100 l/day, mixed sandy loam is about 50 l/day, loamy soil is about 20 l/day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

1. We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will emerge. We pour 10–15 cm of sand at the bottom, and 10–15 cm of crushed stone on top.
2. In the pit, we tightly stack about 5-7 wheels vertically on top of each other. Top point it should be so that the drain pipe can fit into it exactly.
3. In loamy soil it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the area is sandy or sandy soil, then 5 pieces will be enough.
4. Cover the wheels with a durable metal or plastic cover with a hole made in it. We insert into it ventilation pipe, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
5. We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drainage well: a guide

The drainage pit can be made of a plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

1. We choose a place in the lowest part of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order to make it convenient to pump water out of the well and for a car to freely drive up to it, you need to choose a place with convenient access.
2. Digging a hole using an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig by hand, and this is a long process. We monitor the condition of the pit walls (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole of square, rectangular or round shape.
3. We make the bottom with a slight slope towards the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill in 15 cm of sand and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab the desired shape and size.
4. We lay out the walls with bricks. You can take used red brick. For masonry we make a solution of clay and sand. During the laying process, we install an inlet pipe for water in one of the walls.
5. Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bitumen mastic or other similar material.
6. We install a reinforced concrete slab floor. Top part the well should be blocked on all sides by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the area of ​​the pit where the slope is located. The overlap is installed in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a 5–7 cm layer of concrete. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for several days.
7. We put a metal hatch, and concrete floor cover with polyethylene and fill with soil so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

1. Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and at least 1 meter deep. At a height of 10–15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit with external system sewerage. We maintain a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
2. We put a layer of crushed stone, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay at the bottom, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
3. We lay logs on top of the pit, and then install a wooden floor on them.
4. So that waste water can easily drain directly into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor does not need to be attached to the joists so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second option for constructing a pit is a water collector, from which wastewater will be poured into a septic tank or sewer system when it reaches a certain level. This drainage method is mainly used when constructing leaking floors.

How to install ground filtration for a bathhouse

To install such a system, you will need a separate septic tank, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. They will depart from him different sides drainage pipes designed to distribute treated waste along the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large containers made of plastic or metal.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete or a round structure made of brickwork works perfectly.

Rules for constructing a drainage system:

• The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
• Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
• The distance between pipes is at least 1.5 meters;
• The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

1. We dig a trench taking into account an inclination angle of about 1.5°. We check the angle with a regular building level.
2. At the bottom of the trench in clay soil, pour 10 cm of sand and 10 cm of gravel on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to avoid silting. On sandy soil We make a sand and crushed stone cushion, and wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
3. Pour 10 cm of gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
4. The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to connect the drainage system to the bathhouse

Properly done drainage in the washing room of the bathhouse and its other premises guarantees long term services of this building. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent contamination of the area with waste water. Even in small baths it is necessary to equip a drainage system, therefore this process it is necessary to approach it with complete seriousness and responsibility.