The classic concrete entrance staircase is one of the standard designs used almost everywhere. Thanks to the use of standard materials and the reliability of the entire structure, concrete stairs are often made by hand in private homes. At the same time, its type and shape are often limited only by the availability of free time for the calculation and production of formwork. If it is possible to order work externally, then only standard solutions in company catalogs are more than enough.

What you need to know before installation - pros and cons

Before you do concrete stairs, you need to find out its advantages and disadvantages - this will help you finally decide on the choice of shape and material.

Comparison of materials on video:

Advantages concrete structures:

• The strength of the structure will give odds to any others made of wood or metal. If you correctly reinforce a concrete staircase, then its safety factor allows you not to think about the load on the surface.
• After complete drying, a rough concrete staircase can be used for moving or carrying building materials, and after all work is completed, the final finishing can be done.
• Repair of a concrete structure will not be necessary during its entire service life. It requires minimal care, often cosmetic.
• The monolithic reinforced concrete staircase is completely silent - it does not make creaks or other sounds.
• Concrete is a moisture-resistant, fireproof and temperature-resistant material. Not susceptible to rotting or damage by insects.
• There are very few restrictions on the shape of the structure and other design solutions.

Concrete structures have much fewer disadvantages, but they must also be taken into account:

• Weight. Depending on the size, monolithic concrete stairs can weigh up to two or three tons - if the steps extend beyond the foundation of the house, then the possibility of their uneven shrinkage must be taken into account.
• Labor intensity. Before you make a concrete staircase with your own hands, you need to create wooden formwork, which, in essence, is a draft wooden stairs– Concrete will then be poured into it.
• Price. To pour concrete stairs, you need a frame pre-made from formwork, in which the reinforcement is laid and only then concreting is done. Therefore, the production of concrete stairs will cost more than any other analogues.

Types of staircase structures

The main division is into entrance (front) and high-rise. In the first case, they are used to simply get into the house, and high-rise ones are used for direct access to the second floor or to the cellar (basement). Each of them, in turn, has its own varieties and forms.

Even a standard concrete staircase in a private house can be anything geometric shape: usually rectangular, but there is no difficulty in creating rounded, multi-faceted or combined structures, the choice of which depends on the overall design of the building.

Depending on the height to which you need to ascend or descend, the second type of staircases is divided into single-flight and rotary, with two or more landings. A separate category are rotary semicircular or screw varieties. If you are making a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands, then you must take into account the need for an exit platform. The only exception is if there is already a terrace on the top floor, to which the upper flight of stairs will be adjacent.

The staircase to the basement is made according to the same principle as to the second floor, but its manufacture is a little simpler - by making the steps to the basement with your own hands, you can install the formwork directly on the ground. Before this, it is recommended to thoroughly compact its surfaces and cover it with sand. If you have time, it is recommended to do this work in the fall and pour the concrete in the spring. If everything needs to be done at once, then special attention must be paid to tamping. The better it is done, the less likely it is that voids will occur due to soil subsidence.

Various types of structures in the following video:

Self-installation of concrete stairs

To take on the production of a concrete staircase, you need the skills of a carpenter, welder and mechanic, and in addition, know how to calculate the impact of massive structures on their support points. Even standard entrance concrete stairs without any special frills will be an additional load on the foundation, which must be taken into account if they are built separately.

The work order is as follows:

Calculation of a flight of stairs

The first step when calculating a staircase is not even calculating its dimensions, but assessing the place where it will stand. The mass of one cube of concrete is about 2.5 tons, so concrete stairs for a house, depending on the design, will weigh about 2-3 tons. If there is no load-bearing slab, then installation will be a big question. IN ideal, the staircase must be designed when drawing up the house plan and the foundation strip must pass through the place where it is installed.

You also need to think in advance about how the finishing will be done - if you choose decorative stone, then this solution will additionally make the entire structure heavier.

Next, you need to decide on the angle of elevation - comfortable movement is possible with a slope of 30-40°. In this case, the height of one step will be about 17 cm and the width 28-30. In rare cases, it is allowed to make steps at an angle of 45°. Considering the high cost of dismantling concrete structures, it is recommended in this case to find a staircase with such a slope in advance and evaluate for yourself whether it is worth walking on it from year to year or looking for an alternative.

In the case where a slope of 45° is still considered appropriate, it is worth adding so-called overhangs to the design of concrete steps for such stairs - they will increase their width.

If you plan to create a spiral concrete staircase, then the width of the step along the inner radius will be less than on the outside. In this case, the calculation is carried out taking into account the fact that most often people will move along the steps a little further than their middle, closer to the outer radius.

It should also be taken into account that spiral staircases can often have a shifted center of gravity - this is especially true for half-turn structures. In such cases, it is advisable to “support” them against a load-bearing wall or column. To accurately calculate such structures, you must have knowledge of theoretical mechanics - if you don’t have it, then it is better to entrust the construction of such a massive structure to specialists.

Installation of formwork

This is the most critical stage, the quality of which determines appearance finished product and accuracy of concrete pouring. In fact, the formwork copies the structure of a concrete staircase, repeating its shape.

Perhaps monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are not as common in the private sphere as wooden or frame ones, but they are also quite popular. They captivate with their solidity and massiveness, as well as huge opportunities in terms of decoration, not in last resort It also attracts a long service life. Such designs are also in demand among portal craftsmen, thanks to which they have accumulated extensive experience in both design and execution independently or under personal supervision.

Consider:

• Monolithic stairs - design, varieties.
• Features of designing a monolithic staircase.
• Technology for constructing a monolithic staircase.
• How to prepare formwork for a monolithic staircase.
• Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase.
• Concreting a monolithic staircase.

Monolithic concrete stairs

Monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are load-bearing stationary structures, poured directly on site, necessarily including a reinforcement cage. Depending on the dimensions and type of staircase, the reinforcement frame can be independent or connected to the wall.

As for the shape, concrete provides no less possibilities than wood or metal; monolithic stairs can be anything you want:

• marching;
• with winder steps;
• screw;
• on a bowstring, with a gap between the steps;
• on the stringer.

Based on the design of the bottom, monolithic stairs are divided into two types:

• full-bodied - with a smooth bottom;
• mirror - with a figured bottom.

Naturally, the more complex the shape of the structure, the more complex the calculations and implementation; marching concrete stairs are considered the simplest. But they also require more space, the flight must be laid out initially, but it is more realistic to “squeeze” a staircase with winder steps into a more modest opening, although it is considered less convenient.

Features of designing monolithic stairs

Ideally, monolithic stairs should be laid at the design stage, since due to their massiveness they require more space and a reinforced base. For example, if you first pour a heated floor and then decide that you want a monolith, this will cause certain difficulties.

Pozitivnyi member of FORUMHOUSE

I wouldn't rest the ladder on a heated floor. There is insulation underneath, which can play out and the screed can burst, damaging the pipes. We usually remove part of the screed and do pile foundation in the area of ​​the first step, its farthest part from the wall.

The staircase, regardless of the type and material chosen, must first of all be safe and functional - with comfortable steps, at least an acceptable angle of inclination and sufficient span width.

For the calculation of monolithic stairs, the same rules apply as for the others:

• When calculating the length of the march, the thickness of the floor coverings is taken into account.
• Optimal width march - 1000-1200 mm, minimum - 900 mm.
• The number of steps in a flight is a maximum of 15 pieces.
• The height of convenient steps is 150-170 mm, maximum 200 mm.
• Tread width – 250-300 mm.
• The optimal tilt angle is 30-37⁰, maximum is 45⁰ (along the middle axis).

There is a calculation formula: 2a+b=640, where a is the height of the step, b is the width of the step, and 640 mm is average length our step. Portal craftsmen use another formula to calculate monolithic stairs.

Josic

The norm is when, according to the formula: riser plus tread equals 45 cm, or riser plus tread plus riser equals 58-62 cm.

When developing a project yourself, you can either draw it on paper or use a special construction kit. The second option is preferable, since a virtual 3D model is obtained, and the main calculations based on the input are performed by the computer. This is especially true when it comes to structures with winder steps.

Josic

A properly designed staircase should have the same height for all risers and the same tread size for all steps along the axis of the running strip (usually in the middle of the flight). For straight stairs, such a calculation is not difficult to make, but winder steps are more problematic. Often this rule (about the same size) is not observed when making such stairs, and as a result there is discomfort when using them in the future. I don't count on hand-to-hand stairs. Arkon copes with this task perfectly. I place the required type of staircase on the plan, set the parameters, and observe the model in 3D view.

Technology of construction of monolithic stairs

The process of constructing a monolithic staircase consists of three main stages:

• formwork assembly;
• reinforcement;
• concreting.

Finishing work, although a mandatory final stage, can often be significantly spaced out over time, especially when the staircase is being erected simultaneously with the frame.

Formwork for monolithic stairs

To immediately obtain a fairly smooth surface, the formwork is assembled from smooth materials, mainly waterproof plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or more. If there is a financial opportunity or feasibility (several stairs), then it is better to choose laminated plywood. The bottom and sides are assembled from plywood; to form the risers, a 30-35 mm thick edged board or 50×50 mm timber is used.

All formwork elements are cut out as accurately as possible and adjusted during assembly without the formation of cracks; if necessary, the joints are additionally sealed.

Long self-tapping screws are most often chosen as fasteners; they are used to strengthen the shape. metal corners and bars, the timber is used to strengthen the flanging, the bottom is supported with metal or wooden racks with a step increment. If the stairs complex shape(spiral, winder steps), then instead of racks they sometimes make load-bearing ones (crossbars, one end fixed to the wall, and the other to the sidewall). When using ordinary plywood, it is recommended to cover the inside of the formwork with film or other insulation.

The formwork is usually assembled in two stages - first the bottom and sidewall/sidewalls, and after laying the reinforcement cage, crossbars are installed under the steps. One of our craftsmen decided to try to completely assemble the formwork first, and then perform the reinforcement.

Golubev

First I made the reinforcement at home, now I’ll try it differently, yes, there will be difficulties - knitting and welding the reinforcement under the steps (lintels). But then installing jumpers on the reinforcement is not easy. And now I can immediately see where and how to install the reinforcement. If any step gets in the way, then unscrew it for a couple of minutes, and then return it to its place for another so long. The main thing is that this place is found, delineated, and the step is installed in three dimensions according to the level, painstaking work. And when the reinforcement is still underfoot, it’s uncomfortable, so I try this.

Another of our craftsmen, who works professionally with stairs, advises not to create unnecessary difficulties for yourself.

NickVas

A roll of cheap wallpaper - you draw a stringer (monolith), attach it to the wall, level it - mark the places for the fittings and fasteners, drill, attach the bars/boards directly according to the pattern on the wallpaper, then just rip the wallpaper off the wall!

Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase

To increase the strength of the structure and prevent the edges of steps and flights from crumbling, reinforcement must be performed - longitudinal and transverse. They use steel reinforcement with a periodic profile, 10-14 mm in diameter (longitudinal reinforcement is thicker), from which a spatial frame is formed in the form of a grid with a cell of 100-200 mm, depending on the march parameters. The reinforcement is fixed to each other with a knitting mesh using a hook or by welding. To maintain the thickness of the protective layer (2 cm), today they use special ones.

If the staircase design provides for support in the wall through reinforcement, then usually the rods are simply driven in, but if the wall is made of materials characterized by reduced bearing capacity, for example, aerated concrete, our craftsmen advise making pits.

Pozitivnyi

Do not drive reinforcement into the aerated concrete, this will not provide the required support area for the stairs; it is better to make pits and place the reinforcement there, and then fill it all with concrete. Here's an example.

Thanks to this technique, fairly heavy stairs can be supported on aerated concrete walls.

Pozitivnyi

If you make pits in the wall at least 10x10 cm, then the support area will be 100 cm², and if you drive in reinforcement, then 10 cm². The grade of aerated concrete is from 35 to 50, therefore, 100 cm² will withstand from 300 to 500 kg. This means that twenty pits will provide a load of 6 to 10 tons, plus the ladder will stand against the walls, plus support on the first step, plus support on the floor slab.

The reinforcement can be single or double; the opinions of our craftsmen on this matter are divided - some believe that it is better to install two meshes to be sure, others that for most structures one is enough. The forum is dedicated to this issue. In short, he advocates for single-layer reinforcement alexxxxx, one of the professionals producing custom monolithic staircases.

alexxxxx

Reinforcement in monolithic structures is needed in the tension zone, but what is the tension in the upper part of the slab? The reinforcement lies there like a dead weight - that's the first thing. Double reinforcement is required in very rare cases; doing it on all stairs is a transfer of material and extra work, this is the second one. Third, the total amount of reinforcement in percentage terms is regulated by SNIP. If with single-layer reinforcement this percentage approaches the limit, then with two-layer reinforcement this SNIP percentage will definitely be exceeded. Fourth, on a span of three meters I use reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm with a pitch of 120-130 mm. For comparison - monolithic slab floors of six meters are reinforced with the same reinforcement in increments of 200 mm. Which will be stronger? Of the hundred-plus stairs I have made, three were made under the supervision of technical supervision; technical supervision did not make any comments on the reinforcement - this is the fifth.

What does he think? alexxxxx, double reinforcement is justified when:

• there is pinching of the top and bottom - if there is no third support;
• there is no support at all on the bottom and top, and the structure “hangs”, embedded in the wall;
• staircase on one stringer - upper reinforcement and clamps prevent the stringer from torsion;
• with thin monolithic steps, for example, one side stringer - the lower reinforcement of the steps works in compression, and the upper reinforcement in tension;
• the flight of stairs crosses the retaining wall (it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the lower layer so that, together with the upper one, does not exceed the permissible percentage).

The exception is standard factory flights, designed for high throughput and use both inside and outside - they always have double reinforcement.

One of our forum moderators has a different point of view.

Rolandspb

I usually always make two grids in the stairs, no matter what. But in general, of course, they are not always needed. If there is obvious stretching in the lower zone, then in top fittings need not. But, in fact, the overexpenditure on the upper grid of the stairs is about 100 kg, you won’t gain much. Reinforcing stairs is quite difficult with several bends of rods from the upper to the lower zone. I especially don't like the transition from the lower flight to the platform or slab. A bent rod may not work within a certain range. Therefore, I connect two rods (one from the lower zone of the slab, and the second from the lower zone of the march), each of which is anchored at the point of their intersection and brought into the upper zone of the march and slab, respectively. And in the transition from the slab to the upper flight - there, in my understanding, it is quite possible to leave simply bent rods that pass from the bottom of the slab to the bottom of the flight. It’s not a fact that this is exactly what is needed. But I do this. I'm not promoting anyone.

Concreting a monolithic staircase

For monolithic stairs, it is advisable to use prefabricated concrete, class B20 (M250), and better B25 or B30. If it is not possible to order a ready-made solution, then a self-mixer prepared in a concrete mixer will do, but the use of plasticizers is mandatory. The typical ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone (fraction 10×20 mm) is 1/3/3, the solution should not be too liquid.

The staircase is poured in one go, starting from the lower steps, moving up, each step must be vibrated to prevent the formation of voids. During the vibration process, concrete may be squeezed out or settle; the excess is redistributed; after final shrinkage, the surface of the steps is carefully smoothed with a rule or trowel. To ensure uniform strength gain, it is recommended to cover the concrete with a film and moisten it several times a day for a week.

After about a week, partial stripping is carried out - the crossbars and sides are removed to carry out rough grinding. The bottom is removed no earlier than after 3-4 weeks, when the structure has gained the necessary strength. The next step there will be finishing work - installation of fences, plastering, cladding with wood, tiles, stone or other material. Previously, during the concreting process, embeds were required, but today they have lost their relevance.

alexxxxx

Why mortgages? Are the railings going to be welded? It will be very aesthetically pleasing! Yes, and the installers of the railings will remember with a very “kind” word the one who installed these mortgages when they need to drill a hole in this place for fasteners. Now everyone has hammer drills, and the anachronism in the form of mortgages only interferes with the normal installation of railings. Why do you need a mortgage when hidden fasteners look better? about monolithic staircase technology permanent formwork.

The stairs are difficult building construction, which should be characterized by high reliability, safety, durability, aesthetics and comfort. A concrete staircase meets all of the above standards. It is better to entrust the manufacture of concrete stairs to professionals. When carrying out work you need to do correct calculations, create a unique project and follow all steps of the step-by-step instructions.

Such a staircase is often installed in permanent or street buildings made of concrete and brick; its service life is more than 50 years, and subsequent cosmetic repairs will update the design and extend its service life to 100 years.

Advantages of concrete stairs

Compared to wooden structure The laying of a concrete staircase is carried out during the construction of a private house. This is one of the details of the object that enhances the structural strength. Other advantages of the structure include:

• reliability, strength, long service life;
• moisture resistance, minimal risk of fire;
• the possibility of laying together with the building, which ensures savings;
• use of corrosion-resistant steel reinforcement;
• possibility of finishing with any building material;
• resistance to negative external factors, increased use.

Choosing the type of staircase

Before the beginning construction work you should decide on the type of construction, the shape of the staircase, and select suitable high-quality building materials. You should not save much on purchasing raw materials, as its quality can greatly affect the reliability and durability of the finished product. The staircase cannot be used immediately after pouring the steps, since the concrete will take up to 4 weeks to gain strength. Only after this can the formwork be removed. You also need to decide in advance on the location of the structure and the method of opening the doors.

By design, monolithic staircases are divided into straight (one- and two-flight), spiral (or screw). For screw versions with winder steps aesthetic appearance, they are more in demand among consumers, but require formwork with a radial shape, therefore they are most often made to order.

An elementary option is direct interfloor staircase with one flight, located between two walls. In this case, there will be no end parts of the structure, and the formwork is fastened to the walls. It is more difficult to make a semicircular or monolithic structure resting on one wall. To design the free end, you need to add one side part to the structure. You can choose a marching system where there are no supports on the walls ( load-bearing elements serves as the lower and upper floors), the formwork is assembled with side elements.

But there is not always enough space to build a single-flight version, so preference is given to a two-flight version with winder steps or platforms between the flights.

Concrete stairs can also be monolithic, combined, prefabricated from factory-made flights, or type-set.

The first type is performed on site using pouring technology concrete mortar into formwork, can be installed anywhere (on the porch, street or basement).

Classic version completely monolithic design

The second option is a metal structure of complex shape (frame) with concrete steps. Each step is cast using formwork and reinforcing mesh, and is used as a building material marble chips And granite crushed stone. The dried surface is polished.

Prefabricated marches of factory production are used mainly in apartment buildings, however, if desired and if you have a small crane, this option can also take place. The main advantage is the price, the disadvantage is limitations standard sizes.

Stacked types consist of a concrete beam (stringer) and individual steps, which are rectangular, triangular, corner and with a groove. Reinforced concrete types are made in a factory according to specified dimensions and have a standard shape.

Staircases on steel stringers

Calculation of stairs

Before starting construction work, you need to measure the space, make a diagram, drawing or project of the planned structure with preliminary calculation all elements and indicating the required dimensions. The drawing is developed reflecting design parameters, number of steps, height and width. As a rule, the height of the steps is 15-18 cm, and the minimum span width is 80-90 cm. You also need to take into account the thickness of the finishing material, know the building codes, carry out the work in stages, and do not forget about the presence of fences and embedded elements.

Climbing angle

The first parameter is the angle of inclination (lift), the value of which affects the length and height of the structure. So, with the same height, a product with a tilt angle of 25° will be longer than analogues with indicators of 35° and 45°.
The construction of a staircase structure with an angle of 45 degrees (span projection 3 meters) will require 2.35 times less building materials than for a product with an angle of 25° (span projection 6.4 m).

Optimal slope range 24 – 37 degrees

According to the manual, you need to choose the elevation angle based on the appropriate size of the flight, the complexity of the structure and its comfort.

Step sizes

Having decided on the angle of inclination and height, the work of designing concrete stairs includes breaking them down into steps. The optimal step size for calculation is 27-30 cm in width and 16-20 cm in height. If you make higher steps, it will be more difficult for both the elderly and people who are accustomed to a standard step to move along them. Very low steps of less than 15 cm will also be uncomfortable for an adult, but for children this is the best option.

You can select the parameters of the steps using the formula: 2H+L = 60-64 cm, where H is the riser (step height), L is the tread (width). To calculate, you can take the above indicators: 2*18+30=66 cm.

Stair width

As a rule, the width of a staircase in a country house depends on the free space or space between the walls where it will be placed. It should not be narrower than 80 cm, since when climbing to the second floor along a narrow staircase (or descending from it), a person will feel like in a tunnel. It will also be inconvenient to carry any objects. Therefore, the optimal size would be 90-120 cm.

It is imperative to build a safe and secure fence, especially when elderly people and children live in the house. If the fence is located on the steps, it will slightly reduce the effective width of the flight, keep this in mind when calculating.

Online calculator for calculation

For your convenience, you can make all calculations using a convenient one.

Formwork assembly

After completing the calculations, you need to build the formwork yourself. For construction you will need the following materials:

• moisture-resistant plywood 1.2-1.8 cm thick, edged boards 3 cm thick for the bottom of the formwork, edging and risers;
• sheets of moisture-resistant plywood (0.6-0.9 cm each) for the manufacture of curved zones;
• support beams 10x10 cm or boards 15-17 cm wide and 5 cm thick for supports;
• beams 10x10 cm for mounting boards or plywood sheets;
• metal corners;
• fastenings (wood screws) 3.5 mm;
• concrete, trowel for leveling mortar, trowel, device for smoothing the edges of concrete structures.

To concrete surface after hardening it remains smooth, you need to grind those in contact with the solution wooden parts formwork. When using smooth plywood, no leveling procedures are required.

1 – timber for fastening formwork elements; 2 – tension beam; 3 – winder stage formwork; 4 – end formwork.

The formwork must be assembled using the following steps:

• The lower part is made of large boards and plywood sheets. They are tightly fastened together by beams with outside. The bottom of the structure is supported by beams or boards, and the pitch of the supports must correspond to the pitch of the steps. The parts are secured with self-tapping screws, which are convenient to unscrew during dismantling;
• On the sides they place a flange made of edged boards or plywood, reinforcing it from the outside with boards;
• install riser bars to the flange or wall with metal corners;
• joints in parts are sealed with a mortar of cement and sand or leveled with a plane or grinding machine.

Layout of formwork elements

The thicker the beams, the higher the structural strength. The weight of a reinforced concrete structure will be large, which must be taken into account during the construction process. You can add additional rigidity using transverse bars.

Reinforcement

For small stairs in a cottage, the reinforcement can be made with a mesh, which is tied from reinforcement measuring 1-1.2 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm (the size of the mesh cells will be 15x20 cm). The rods are connected with wire.

Large products must be made from a reinforcement frame, including several meshes mounted with vertical rods or welding. The distance between the grids is 2-3 cm.

The frame is the skeleton of the structure where the hardened concrete solution will be fixed, so its horizontal rods must be fixed in the wall, in pre-drilled holes. The mesh or frame is laid in the lower area of ​​the formwork 2-3 centimeters from the bottom (the reinforcement can be raised using stands, bricks or stones). In the area where the railings are located, you need to place plugs or metal plates.

Pouring concrete

During concreting, a grade of concrete not lower than M200 (from class B15) is used. The solution is mixed in a concrete mixer or ordered from RBU and must contain the following components: 10 parts of cement, 30 parts of crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm, 20 parts of sand and 7 parts of water. If the composition is dense, you can add 3 parts of water.

Now you need to fill the composition correctly:

• the lower steps are performed first;
• the solution is compacted to give strength and density. To do this, you can use reinforcement, which is used to pierce the concrete in several areas. professionals recommend using a more reliable method - a construction vibrator, which squeezes concrete through the formwork;
• giving correct form steps, smoothing with a trowel;
• pouring the remaining elements and the porch;
• covering the solution with a film to protect it from cracks and early hardening. You can also regularly moisten the outer surface of the flooded area with water.

Removing formwork

Concrete gains strength within 4 weeks. After 7 days, you need to remove the boards from the steps and sides. The freed surfaces are leveled grinder or a grinder with a circle for processing concrete. After 21 days, the supporting beams from the lower area of ​​the structure are removed. And only on the 28th day can the remaining formwork be completely removed.

Finish lining

A DIY concrete staircase can have different variants finishing: wood, laminate, tiles, carpet, acrylic stone or porcelain stoneware. Any material must be laid on a level base. After dismantling the formwork, uneven areas may remain on the site, which are recommended to be removed by sanding and plastering. The end parts are usually finished with plaster and painted. After this, the steps are covered with one of the materials.

The surface can be covered with tiles, artificial or natural stone with a rough surface. The material is laid on cement mortar or tile adhesive. Using the same technology, mosaics are laid, creating original compositions from small elements.

Photo instructions for installing clinker steps

The finishing can be done with wood panels that are resistant to abrasion. For this purpose, larch and exotic species that have undergone antiseptic treatment are selected.

Installation wood paneling larch

An excellent treatment option is laminate, which is abrasion-resistant, easy to install and durable.

If children or elderly people live in the house, then you can choose carpet, available in different colors.

The final stage is finishing with carpet

To save money, you can simply paint the steps with high-quality concrete paint.

Painting is a cheap but interesting option

In any case, the appearance of the staircase is associated with taste preferences and financial capabilities owner.

One of best solutions interfloor communication is a concrete staircase. Ready-made concrete products have quite categorical standardization and their use in atypical architecture is limited. In this article we will look at the process and technology of creating a concrete staircase with your own hands.

Principles for calculating concrete stairs

In order for the staircase to be comfortable for each resident, it must be calculated correctly. You, of course, can determine the parameters empirically by measuring the height and length of the steps of the real staircase that you use and find comfortable. But it is better to stick to a proven calculation method.

The horizontal plane of a step is usually called a tread, and the vertical plane is called a riser. The width of the tread should be sufficient for the foot to rest on it at least 80%. Stairs with a tread of 300 mm are considered the safest and most comfortable; when climbing stairs with wider steps, you are likely to lose your step, and a narrower tread will make the descent uncomfortable. Width flight of stairs should be at least 80 cm for comfortable passage of people and at least 120 cm if you plan to carry furniture or bulky objects up the stairs.

Dependence of the height and width of the steps on the angle of rise of the stairs

The height of the riser is selected depending on the width of the tread. For steps 300 mm wide, the optimal height is 150 mm. If you want to make the steps wider by 10 mm, you should reduce the riser by the same amount and vice versa.

It is believed that the sum of the double height of the riser and the width of the tread should be equal to the average human step - 400-600 mm. This indicator is individual and depends on the person’s height, so if children live in the house, make the stairs safer by increasing the tread and reducing the width of each step.

Knowing optimal height riser, divide the height difference between floors by this value, and you will get the number of steps in the staircase. The fractional remainder of the division is the height of the first frieze step. By multiplying the number of steps by the width of the tread, you will determine the length of the horizontal projection of the flight of stairs and determine whether the flight of stairs fits in the space allocated for it.

If the flight of stairs does not fit, you can make it shorter by increasing the angle of elevation. The most convenient and safest slope is considered to be a staircase slope of 26-37°; steeper stairs are more difficult to climb, and with a slope over 45°, descent is only possible backwards. To determine the angle of the stairs, use the model of a right triangle, in which the legs are the tread and the riser. You can calculate the angle by dividing the height of the step by its width and using the table of tangent angle values.

Determining the angle of inclination of the stairs by the height and width of the steps

If you do not want to sacrifice comfort, do not change the width and height of the steps. Instead, divide the span with an inter-flight platform, make the 5-6 lower steps winders, or build a radial spiral staircase. Please note that in this case the width of the step at its most bottleneck should not be less than 100 mm.

Rules for reinforcement of staircases

A concrete staircase is a self-supporting structure that requires additional support only if the angle of rotation of the flight exceeds 180°. Otherwise, in the central part of the monolithic structure, the fracture load will exceed the standard values ​​and compensation will be required - fastening to the walls or the construction of support columns.

The main load in a concrete staircase falls on the reinforcement, the quantity of which is record-breaking in comparison with other reinforced concrete products - from 1.7 to 3% of the cross-section along the length of the span and up to 0.8% of the cross-section along the width. Reinforcement grade ST-5 is laid along the span with a step between the rods:

• 120 mm with a rod diameter of 10 mm;
• 160 mm with a diameter of 12-14 mm;
• 180 mm with a diameter of 16 mm;
• 200 mm with a diameter over 18 mm.

Reinforcement in the lateral projection is performed in increments of 250-300 mm. Reinforcement of platforms is carried out in increments of 200 mm in each direction.

The fastening of reinforcement to embedded elements in the walls is carried out not so much to provide additional support, but rather for the sake of the solidity of the structure and to avoid the appearance of cracks during settlement of the building. However, the staircase monolith must be rigidly attached to the floors by releasing 60-80 mm of embedded reinforcement.

The reinforcement forms a mesh, folded without clearance and placed on plastic clips regulating the protective layer of concrete 3-5 cm from each edge. Double-row reinforcement is sufficient for stairs with 18 steps; longer spans will require an additional third row of longitudinal reinforcement located 5-6 cm above the main mesh.

At the crosshairs, the mesh is tied with wire or nylon clamps. Each reinforcement bar must be continuous along its entire length or width, but this is not always possible on long spans or radius stairs. Therefore, it is allowed to splice embedded elements:

• viscous with an overlap of 24 nominal diameters;
• welding with a one-sided seam with an overlap of 12 diameters;
• welding with a double-sided seam with an overlap of 6 diameters.

The steps do not need reinforcement, but it is wise to use them to protect them from chipping steel mesh 4x50 mm under a 2 cm layer of concrete.

Installation of formwork

Formwork for stairs is simpler than it might seem. First, a gutter is mounted from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, strictly horizontal in diameter and with vertical walls fastened together with tie strips, one for each step. The role of the walls of the gutter can be performed by adjacent walls. On inner surface walls, a surface planer is used to mark the height of the ramp - the load-bearing slab of the staircase, which is equal to the thickness of the reinforcement plus the upper and lower protective layer. Next, using a ruler, and for a radius staircase - a thread of a fixed length, the vertical edges of the steps are marked on the drawn line. The length of the inclined segment is square root from the sum of the squares of the height and length of the steps (Pythagorean law).

Vertical lines are drawn along the marks made, on which the height of the steps is marked. To check, you should lay a horizontal line along the new mark and measure the distance between the points of intersection with the vertical and the inclined line of the ramp: it should be equal to the length of one step.

According to the applied marks, the formwork boards of the steps are installed vertically, securing them to the walls of the gutter, the top of each step remains open. Adjacent boards are fastened with wedge-shaped spacers, one for every 80 cm of span width. The wide part of the wedge is attached at the end to the top board, the narrow part is placed on the upper edge of the bottom one. Special attention You need to pay attention to the walls of the gutter; they will bear the main load.

The formwork is supported from below with scaffolds or telescopic racks with a permissible load of up to 800 kg. The number of racks is one for every 1.2 m 2 of the ramp surface. To install supports, 40x40 mm transverse bars are screwed to the bottom of the formwork from below to form something like an inverted ladder.

Pouring the stairs

The pouring of the flight of stairs between floors is carried out in one stage. You cannot prepare such a quantity of concrete manually, and you cannot vouch for the quality of the homemade mixture. Therefore, you will have to calculate the internal volume of the formwork, equal to the volume of the ramp plus the volume of one step, multiplied by their number. It is recommended to order concrete grade B30 or higher with a reserve of at least 10% of the original volume to account for losses during transportation.

Pouring the stairs begins with the lower steps with gradual advancement as the formwork is filled and the surface is leveled. Concrete must be compacted and, upon completion of pouring, vibrated. Subsidence of the mixture on the steps after shrinkage can be eliminated by topping up immediately or by grouting with M300 cement mortar on grade 500 cement the next day.

Concrete gains sufficient strength within 14 days. During the drying period, it is necessary to moisten the surface to avoid cracks. After two weeks, the formwork is removed and finishing work begins.

Finishing work: how to simplify cladding

There are many options for cladding the stairs, ranging from simple painting to laying special marble slabs. It is only important to give a few tips that will significantly simplify further improvement.

Tip 1. Prepare the formwork carefully. Up to complete sealing of cracks and complete puttying. Formwork is a form, and if its surface is perfectly flat, then after dismantling it will only be necessary to eliminate minor defects in the concrete to obtain an absolutely smooth coating.

Tip 2. Iron the steps the next day after pouring. If the formwork is installed correctly, in the future all that remains is to sand the edges a little.

Tip 3. Provide embedded elements for railings and fences in advance. This will not only simplify their installation, but will also not compromise the strength of the structure.

Tip 4. Don't skimp on spacers and formwork support. Even a slight bend or dent will ruin the appearance.

Tip 5. Make steps of the same height with the possible exception of the frieze.

Tip 6. Start finishing the stairs only after complete renovations in the house.

Concrete stairs are widely used not only in public areas apartment buildings, but also in private houses, cottages and apartments.

Reinforced concrete stairs in a house or apartment will suit almost any interior thanks to the wide possibilities for finishing such stairs. Concrete stairs are very durable and have high wear resistance. Of course, these conditions are fulfilled if correct design and correct calculations, not only the durability of the future staircase, but also the safety of the people who will use it depends on these parameters. You will find all the details of constructing a concrete staircase in this article.

Types of monolithic stairs

Monolithic stairs are divided by type of structure and shape. Distinguish the following options concrete stairs:

• screw;
• straight marching;
• rotary.

When making concrete stairs, the simplest design is a straight staircase, but it is not always convenient to use. If the stairs are located in small room To save space, they often use either a multi-flight staircase with winder steps or a turning platform, or a spiral one.

During design, and subsequently during construction, it is necessary to provide for the release of reinforcement at the points of contact with the stairs. This is necessary in order to connect the metal structure of the staircase with the elements of the house, for greater rigidity.

Monolithic stairs are the most versatile; they are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, so they can be used not only as interfloor stairs. For example, a staircase to a basement or an entrance staircase to a house are built from a monolith.

Straight one-flight staircase

This type stairs are very common. A single-flight staircase is built in houses with no high ceilings, turning staircases are often built in houses with high ceilings.

Based on the calculation that a comfortable flight length is no more than 15 steps, we find that in rooms with high ceilings it is more correct to use stairs with winder steps or turning platforms. Using a straight staircase in this case will lead to an increase in the number of steps and discomfort during its use.

Advantages of a straight staircase:

• ease of installation compared to stairs of other shapes;
• price;
• Following the recommendations of our website, you can build such a staircase without any problems.

Spiral staircase

This reinforced concrete staircase will fit beautifully into the interior of any home.

Advantages:

• placing the stairs on an area of ​​1.5 m2 is a huge plus, especially in small houses;
• The unusual, graceful shape of the staircase will decorate any interior.

Spiral flooded staircases also have a number of installation difficulties:

• difficult installation, regardless of the chosen type of structure, it is necessary to manufacture specially shaped panels for formwork;
• difficulty in moving along the stairs due to the different width of the steps along the entire length;
• difficulties in lifting and lowering bulky objects, the problem is solved by increasing the diameter of the stairs.

Rotary staircase

They are used in various cases - in houses with high ceilings, to maintain the optimal angle of elevation and flight length, and are also widely used in the construction of apartment buildings. Let's highlight two common options:

• with a rotation of 90 degrees (L-shaped);
• with a rotation of 180 degrees (U-shaped).

Winder steps or a turntable are used as a turn. Staircase with winder steps in its own way design feature occupies a smaller area compared to a turntable.

Types of structures

All concrete stairs are divided into:

• monolithic concrete stairs - production is carried out directly at the installation site by pouring concrete mortar into pre-prepared formwork;
• prefabricated - they are reinforced concrete blocks, pre-prepared in factories according to a standard template.

All types of stairs (straight, rotary and spiral) can be either monolithic or prefabricated, but in addition to this they are also divided by type of construction. The main designs are:

• on bowstrings;
• on stringers;
• console;
• modular.

We will analyze each of them in detail so that you can better understand which type of design is right for you.

On the bowstring

The design is a staircase, from the side of which no steps will be visible. The steps are located between the elements of the concrete structure.

The design can be either with closed steps,

same with open ones.

There are designs with a one-sided arrangement of the bowstring, in this design it is similar to the cantilever design.

On the stringer

The only difference between this design and the previous one is that the steps are open on the sides and the staircase has a zigzag appearance.

In addition, designs are distinguished by the location of the stringer:

• Monocosure - can be located either in the center of the staircase or offset to either side.

• Stringers - outwardly looks smooth, just like stairs on stringers made of other materials. In this design, stringers are made of concrete, and the steps themselves can be made of concrete or other material.

• The staircase is a monolithic stringer.

Modular

Modular structures include prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs. The most common modular concrete structures are stairs in apartment buildings. In such buildings, multi-flight staircases with turning platforms are used.

Much less often, prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs are presented in the form of spiral ones.

Another option modular design is the use of individual steps as sides, which are installed on inclined channels.

The process of assembling stairs from ready-made concrete elements is ultimately simpler compared to installing monolithic stairs using pre-prepared concrete elements. During the assembly process, the staircase elements are installed in pre-prepared places and secured with concrete mortar.

Console

Unusual and interesting design. Due to the absence of railings, risers and supporting elements, a feeling of lightness and weightlessness is created.

In order to avoid damage and destruction of the steps of the cantilever staircase during operation, it is necessary to carefully carry out all calculations at the design stage.

To make a cantilever staircase from concrete steps, it is important that the walls are made of durable material and have sufficient width. During the construction of a house, a step 1/3 of the length is built into the wall.

Design and requirements for monolithic reinforced concrete stairs

When designing, it is important to remember that each staircase has its own characteristics of calculating parameters based on the shape of the staircase and its design. You will be able to use detailed calculation all the necessary parameters in the article on calculating stairs, as well as a construction calculator for each type.

Based on SNiP, we will highlight the main parameters that must be taken into account when designing a concrete staircase:

• number of steps - calculation is carried out relative to the length of the span to the height of the step;
• tread width - according to the standards for convenient use stairs, it is necessary that the foot can be fully placed on the tread;
• step height – varies depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs, a comfortable height is about 160–180 mm;
• the length of the step corresponds to the width of the flight; for the quiet movement of two people in both directions, as well as for lifting bulky objects, a flight width of about 1200 mm is sufficient;
• ceiling opening - the distance from the steps to the edge of the opening must be at least 200 cm;
• railing height – on average 90 – 110 cm;
• the length of the string or bowstring is calculated using the mathematical formula of Pythagoras. (stringer length) 2 = (stringer height) 2 + (flight length) 2 ;

• the optimal angle of inclination for stairs in residential premises is from 24 to 37°, depending on this it will be possible to determine the height of the riser and the width of the step;

• for turning stairs, it is necessary to calculate additional supporting posts and a turning platform or winder steps.

These parameters apply to single-march and multi-flight stairs, in case of spiral staircases there are small differences:

• It is necessary to determine the diameter of the staircase, it depends on the length of the step and the diameter of the central pillar of the support: 2 * (length of the step) + (diameter of the central pillar).
• Special parameters also go to the shape and size of the step. Due to the fact that the step narrows towards the mounting support, the following parameters must be adhered to: at the narrowest point, the width must be at least 10 cm, in the central part of the rise - at least 20 cm, at the widest part - no more than 40 cm.

In addition to the above parameters required when building stairs, it is important to remember that concrete stairs have a number of additional parameters.

One of these conditions is the reinforcement of concrete stairs. Reinforcement is a kind of skeleton of the staircase that strengthens and supports it. When designing, it is necessary to separately draw a reinforcement diagram; it must completely follow the contour of the future staircase; it is also important for the necessary strength of the entire structure.

Particular attention also needs to be paid to the quality of the concrete mixture; the strength of the future staircase also depends on it. To properly prepare a concrete mixture, you can rely on a table that shows the ratios for obtaining 1 m 3 of concrete, or you can use a calculator for.

After calculating all the above parameters, it is necessary to draw the staircase and all its components separately, in at least two projections - a top view and a side view. The execution of the drawing is necessary for a visual representation of both each element separately (shape of the step and pattern of the balustrade or railing), and the entire staircase as a whole.

The main advantages of concrete stairs:

• They have a rigid structure, no creaking or vibration.
• The construction of a concrete staircase in a private house begins simultaneously with the construction of the house, thanks to this it can be used for construction needs without fear of damaging it.
• Concrete stairs are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, ideal for outdoor locations, like an entrance staircase.
• There is no possibility of fire.
• The material allows you to carry out the craziest design projects.

A special feature of the design is the fact that a concrete staircase requires a solid base (foundation) and an equally strong floor on which it will rest. All this is due to the fact that concrete is very heavy material, in addition, the heavy reinforced skeleton of the ladder also adds weight.

Construction stages

Now we have reached the most important stage, this is the construction of a concrete staircase. For convenience, we will divide this stage into six steps:

• Foundation - we have already discussed that to make a concrete staircase you need a solid foundation and floor on which it will rest. This stage must be completed if the foundation for the stairs was not provided at the stage of pouring the foundation for the house.
• Formwork is a structure that determines the shape of the future staircase; depending on the shape and size of the structure, wood or metal is used for formwork.
• Reinforcement - necessary process to give the stairs tensile strength and strength.
• Pouring concrete - it is important to pour the stairs in one go and expel all the air from the concrete.
• Removing formwork - all panels are dismantled after strengthening the concrete.

We will analyze each of the presented steps in detail so that you have no questions left and you can make a monolithic staircase yourself.

Foundation

You can find their descriptions on our website. The foundation is selected depending on the soil and the loads placed on it.

Let's look at an example slab foundation under the stairs. Since the foundation is also reinforced concrete structure, you will need to follow almost all the same steps as for the stairs:

1. We excavate the soil within the limits required for the stairs, to a depth of 60-80 cm.
2. When making a pillow under the foundation, we fill it with sand and tamp it down; the thickness of the sand pillow should be at least 20 cm.
3. We pour 20x40 crushed stone on top of the sand and compact it; the thickness of the crushed stone cushion should be from 10 to 20 cm, depending on the loads on the foundation.
4. After preparing the cushion, if it is necessary to raise the foundation above the ground, we make formwork. Otherwise, the earth will perform the formwork function.
5. We prepare a reinforced frame and fill the entire structure with concrete, providing a reinforced frame in such a way that the reinforcement for attaching the reinforced staircase frame to it sticks out above the level of the foundation.
6. After pouring, it is necessary to use a vibrating tool to eliminate air bubbles in the foundation and eliminate porosity.
7. After pouring the foundation, you must wait until the concrete is completely set before proceeding with the installation of the stairs. The process of complete consolidation will take about three weeks. In order for the foundation to gain rigidity before it dries, it must be regularly watered.

Stairs on concrete base much stronger, due to the fact that there is no subsidence of the soil, which leads to deformation and destruction of the stairs.

Installation of formwork

Preparing formwork for a future staircase in a private house is one of the most important stages, because it depends on it how beautiful the staircase will be.

For installation, it is necessary to prepare the materials from which the formwork will be constructed:

• Edged board 30 mm thick or waterproof plywood 12-18 mm thick - these will be used to make the bottom of the formwork (it will bear the main load of all the poured concrete), as well as the side parts of the formwork and risers.
• Bars 100x100 mm and boards 50x150-170 mm will be used to support the entire structure.
• A thin sheet of metal or waterproof plywood 6-9 mm - for forming semicircular sections of the stairs.
• Metal corners and screws for fastening - the use of self-tapping screws is due to the fact that with their help it is easier to disassemble the formwork than after using nails.

To obtain the smoothest possible surface of the future staircase, it is necessary to ensure that the internal elements of the formwork that will come into contact with the concrete are smooth and without unnecessary errors; for this it is better to sand them before assembly.

Step-by-step assembly of formwork:

There are special boards for assembling formwork; they are often used by professional builders.

The set of such shields includes special supporting pillars. All panels have locks for a tight and durable connection with each other.

Stair reinforcement

To reinforce a monolithic staircase, it is necessary to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. The fittings must be corrugated with a class not lower than AIII.

Let's sort it out correct location fittings:

• The reinforcement bars must be located at least 20-30 mm and no more than 50 mm from the edge of the structure. It is necessary to provide special supports that will be used to maintain distances from the bottom of the formwork.
• The distance between the reinforcing bars must be at least 20-30 cm. As a result of the bundle of reinforcement, cells of 20x30 cm should be formed. Close placement of the reinforcement is not allowed, due to the fact that this may create an obstacle to the passage of the concrete solution.
• At the junctions of the stairs with walls and ceilings, it is necessary to deepen the reinforcement into these elements, drill a hole and drive the reinforcement into it.
• The reinforcing mesh must be made in at least two or more layers, depending on the thickness of the stairs. The diameter of the transverse rods must be at least 6 mm.
• The reinforcement is tied using wire.

Reinforcement should not be excessively filled with reinforcement:

• Firstly, the passage of concrete may be obstructed, which will lead to the formation air gaps and reducing structural rigidity.
• Secondly, this will significantly make the structure heavier. It’s good if your foundation is designed with a margin and can withstand this load, but it can be completely different.
• Thirdly, this is an unnecessary increase in construction costs.

As an example, we present a number of cases of correct and incorrect reinforcement of rotating sections of a structure (edit photo)

Pouring concrete

Having completed the installation of formwork and reinforcement, do not rush to fill the stairs with concrete. Consider a number of points in advance:

• Finishing the stairs - if the stairs are covered with wood, it would be more correct to place small bars in the concrete at the pouring stage, to which you can later attach finishing elements. Thanks to this, there will be no need to drill the ladder, thereby weakening it.
• Posts for railings - depending on how the railing posts will be fastened, it is necessary to install the railing posts themselves or embedded parts for them, this is the case if the railings are placed on the steps. If the placement is on the side of the stairs, it is possible to place a metal plate to which railing posts can later be attached.

Don’t rush, before pouring concrete on the stairs, try to take into account all the possible elements that you want to add to your staircase. If necessary, place the insert tubes under electrical cable for illumination. Any drilling or drilling of a finished concrete staircase to a certain extent will reduce the strength of the entire structure, so the more possible factors you consider before pouring the staircase, the stronger it will be.

To fill the stairs with concrete, you need to prepare concrete of a grade of at least M200, you can get it using the table given earlier or a construction calculator. (insert link) The concrete must contain crushed stone of a fraction of 10x20 mm, a smaller size will make the solution mobile and viscous, fractions larger size may interfere with the passage of the solution in the reinforcement piping.

Sequence of pouring a monolithic staircase:

• It is better to start the filling process from the lower stages. Having filled the first 3 steps, it is necessary to expel the air from the concrete; to do this, use a submersible vibrating tool. If the air is not expelled, the concrete will become porous and more brittle.
• If the concrete sags after the air is released, add mortar and give the steps the correct shape.
• Then proceed to filling all the remaining steps. Try to fill the entire staircase at one time so that concrete mixture well connected. In the case of a large staircase, fill one flight at a time.
• After pouring concrete, you need to cover the stairs with film to prevent moisture evaporation and allow the concrete to harden.

Removing formwork

You should not rush to remove the formwork elements; if the concrete has not gained enough rigidity, the entire structure will collapse and the whole process will have to start from the very beginning.

First of all, the formwork is removed from the steps and from the side support, this happens 10-14 days after pouring. After dismantling the formwork, it is possible to process the steps and sidewalls grinder to level the surface of your concrete stairs to the second floor.

During the entire time until the formwork is removed, it is necessary to maintain the moisture of the concrete, water it with water and cover it with polyethylene, especially in hot weather. This must be done to prevent the concrete from drying out before it hardens. Otherwise, it will not gain sufficient hardness, and there is a risk of cracking and destruction.

After 30-45 days from the moment of pouring, you can begin to dismantle the lower supports and the base of the foundation. This is perhaps the most crucial and exciting moment in the entire construction of the staircase. But if you followed all the recommendations, then you do not need to worry; within the specified time, the concrete will gain the necessary strength, and the stairs can be used in full.

Finish options

After the construction process, we move on to the final stage of finishing. Reinforced concrete stairs have wide choose by finishing:

• You can sheathe the staircase with wood - in this case, upon completion of the finishing, it may seem that the staircase is not made of concrete, but in fact made of wood.

• Wooden steps on a concrete staircase (insert link) - in this case, wooden treads or treads with risers are installed, and the rest of the staircase remains concrete. It must be carefully sanded, puttied and painted or tiled.

• Reinforced concrete stairs in private houses are quite rarely covered with tiles; more often this option is found for stairs to the basement, for a porch or for monolithic stairs in shopping and office centers. insert link