Coziness and comfort country house, private household, country cottage cannot be imagined without an effective, well-functioning sewer system.

Planning, arrangement and maintenance of the drainage complex in proper condition is the object of constant close attention of owners of individual real estate.

Understanding all the fundamental principles of constructing and maintaining a wastewater drainage system, the design of the main components and assemblies of the system, it is not difficult to install a sewer system into a private house with your own hands. At the same time, significant savings are achieved in the selection of consumables and remuneration of qualified specialists.

Every home craftsman who has created with his own hands such a complex functional system for own home, like an autonomous sewer system, automatically becomes an indispensable specialist for its maintenance.

On construction market In Moscow and the region there are many companies providing water supply and sewer works"Full construction". The Moscow region positions a different price range - for a small country house the cost is in the range of 20-30 thousand rubles. For a medium-sized building with up to 6 people, drainage will cost 50-60 thousand rubles. Equipment for the drainage system of a large 2-3 storey cottage with more than 12 residents can cost 200-300 thousand rubles and more.

So, how to design and implement a sewer system in a private house that will work for decades without failures and emergency situations? How to plan everything yourself, while getting savings of 50% from total costs? This will be discussed further in our article.

Drain design

Before starting all work, it is necessary to carefully consider the structure of the entire system as a whole, as well as the composition of all its components. It is best to put your vision of the design on paper.

The drawn project will be constantly in sight, helping to take into account important details. Working on the drawing will allow you to plan a compact arrangement of pipes and take into account the structural features of the building.

In the project, it is important to take into account the location of each plumbing unit, identify methods for laying pipelines to the equipment, and calculate the required number of fittings, pipes, and materials.

Specific sections of the utility network to be laid must be designated separately, calculating the length of the pipes and their diameters. This information will be very useful when purchasing materials. A sewerage diagram in a private house will be a reliable help in its construction.

The design process involves the arrangement of internal and external waste water discharge circuits.

When laying internal sewerage, the following are installed:

• Fan pipe
• Central riser
• Pipes for shower, bath, toilet

External sewerage in a private house is responsible for draining external Wastewater. It is arranged for supply to a septic tank or to a deep cleaning station. The latter structure will have a high cost. If available near home central system sewer system, the task of arranging an external outlet for waste water is greatly simplified, and considerable savings are achieved.

To simplify installation, as well as to reduce costs, at the design stage, the areas of the house associated with water consumption should be arranged as compactly as possible. Thanks to this arrangement, laying pipes inside the house is greatly simplified.

Important advice - the design process must begin with the riser. Only by determining the passage channel of the riser and the collector pipe can the further location of all other components of the system be outlined.

• The best material option for laying sewer systems is polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride pipes, tees, and fittings. They are much cheaper, but much more durable than cast iron products;
• When laying drain networks, all turns in them can be mounted using two plastic elbows with a 45-degree bend. The design significantly minimizes the likelihood of blockages, which often occur when using a single 90-degree bend;
• PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters are used for gray kitchen drains, as well as for removing used water from the bathroom;
• Toilet drain pipes must have a diameter of at least 100-110 millimeters. The total length of such pipes should be no more than 1000 millimeters.

Routing and laying of pipes

Installation work when laying pipelines for the drainage complex is considered the most labor-intensive in construction. When furnishing a house with your own hands, it will be difficult for one owner to cope with the entire volume of work. Therefore, it is recommended to have one or two assistants from among family members, neighbors, and acquaintances. The speed of work and quality of sewerage installation will only benefit from this.

Currently, the trading network and construction Internet portals offer a wide variety of plastic pipes, revisions, tees, and elbows. With the help of rubber cuffs, they connect without problems and function perfectly without leaking water. The joints are treated with special construction materials. silicone sealants. Where pipe communications pass through walls, sleeves are installed on top of them to prevent damage.

An indicative list of tools that will be needed when laying sewer pipes:

• Automatic sealant gun
• Screwdriver Set
• Hammer 200 g
• Electric hammer drill
• Pencil
• Level
• Grinder with a long cord
• Hacksaw for cutting plastic and metal

With such work, minor errors are always possible. In order to detect leaks or defects in fittings, the finished sewerage system must be tested with clean water before putting it into operation. Only after making sure that its condition is reliable can it be connected to the existing equipment of the home. Storm drainage can be combined at the exit from the house with an internal drain.

Video on the topic:

Slope and release

An important factor during installation drainage structures is correct slope. Modern building codes They suggest that the slope of systems where there is no liquid pressure should be carried out taking into account the diameter of the pipelines. 50mm pipes should have a slope of 3 centimeters per meter of their length. Pipes with a diameter of 100-110 millimeters can have a slope of 2 centimeters in their length. Based on this, different points horizontal pipes should be at different heights.

To prevent the external wiring from not connecting with the internal wiring, installation begins with the sewer outlet. The outlet is the location in the pipeline where the internal riser connects to the pipe leading to the septic tank. It is laid deep in the ground through the foundation, below the freezing level of the soil in a given region.

In extreme cases, if conditions do not allow and the outlet is located higher, it must be very carefully insulated. Otherwise in winter frosts the drainage pipe will freeze and cause problems.

Video on the topic:

Cesspool and septic tank for wastewater treatment

Most inexpensive way arrangement of the removal of used water from a private house - a cesspool. It is manufactured at the rate of 0.5-0.8 m³ per person. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete. The side walls are lined with bricks, blocks, and can be filled with concrete. To prevent waste from entering drinking water, the top of the masonry is sealed with bitumen mastic.

The sewer line is laid in a trench 1 meter deep. The ditch is blocked wooden floor, which is filled with liquid bitumen on top and an inspection hatch with a lid is installed.

The cesspool should be located in a convenient place accessible for sewage transport. This is necessary so that as the pit is filled it must be cleaned. In all populated areas There is a service that, at the request of private home owners, sends special machines to clean cesspools.

When deciding to create a sewerage design, the owner should familiarize himself with full list special devices widely represented on the building materials market. Septic tanks made of plastic, storage tanks, multi-chamber sewer systems - these devices facilitate the installation of the drainage complex, ensuring the reliability and durability of its service.

The septic tank has more reliable design, longer service life, ease of use. Its task is to clarify wastewater and discharge it into the ground. A septic tank is usually made of several sections, depending on the expected volume of water flow in the house. According to the standards, it should be located at a distance of 20 m from a residential building. The drainage installation is installed at a distance sufficient to prevent erosion of the soil, foundation and wastewater from entering basements and wells.

The drainage system should be located below the drinking water intake level, no closer than 50 m from the water intake point. With absence groundwater Instead of a drainage system, a filter well is installed. It is laid out from bricks, blocks or filled with concrete in formwork. The top of the device is closed with a lid and covered with molten bitumen for sealing.

A ready-made septic tank can be purchased in retail chains and on Internet portals. Plastic containers and concrete rings are often used for this purpose. It is important to remember: the pipe leading water into the drainage system must be laid at a depth of at least one and a half meters. The depth of the sewer system will prevent it from freezing in winter period. The septic tank is cleaned at least once a year. Bottom sediments are converted into minerals, which are successfully used as fertilizers for the garden.

Filter well

A filter well is installed when water consumption is low - up to 1 m³. A sealed housing is made, the bottom is filled with some kind of bulk filter material: crushed stone, slag, gravel, granular screenings. Such a device is located at a distance of 50 m from the water intake. Its bottom is located at least one meter above the groundwater level.

It is advisable when arranging sewerage for country house use modern technological materials. Pipes made of polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene are best suited here. good quality. Such materials will serve for decades, delighting the inhabitants of the house with their functionality, reliability, and uninterrupted operation. If it is necessary to replace small parts, they can be easily changed without compromising the family budget.

Thus, the rhetorical question of how to make a sewer system in a private house or cottage with your own hands is an attractive topic that every property owner can do for himself, choosing the best option from a variety of designs.

Having understood the vicissitudes of construction and correctly installed the sewerage system, the owner of the mansion will be able to independently resolve all emerging issues throughout the long period of its operation, without involving specialists from specialized companies.

It is unthinkable to consider water supply to a residential property without installing a wastewater disposal system. Therefore, even before construction, you need to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and how to arrange the external pipeline.

We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and around the site. We will show you how to assemble the system and fasten its components. The article we propose provides installation rules and building codes, and describes the technology for performing internal wiring.

There can be no talk of construction without preliminary preparation of a wastewater drainage system. A carefully thought-out, drawn up scheme will allow rational use of capital investments.

In addition, thanks to the preliminary drawing up of a sewerage diagram, the building opens up more possibilities to achieve the required system efficiency.

Example of an installation diagram: mk – sink; ks – riser; un – toilet (bidet); mind is the sink of the washbasin; vn – bath, 50 and 110 – pipeline diameters horizontal lines and riser lines; 1 – siphon with cleaning; 2 – bath siphon with overflow; 3 – square; 4 – tee; 5 – cross; 6 – adapter

The main criteria for drawing up a diagram are usually considered to be:

• the number of people on the territory of a residential property;
• proposed technology for processing (purification) of sewage waste;
• wiring of external wastewater disposal lines;
• layout of internal collection and drainage lines.

Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.

An example of drawing up a sketch of a home sewer system for two adjacent units: 1 – sink; 2 – toilet; 3 – washbasin; 4 – bath; 5 – plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)

Pipe layout for a one-story house

Considering the availability of lightweight and a complete set of installation fittings on the market, it is quite affordable to build a sewerage system in a private house yourself. However, without consulting specialists and referring to established standards, it is not easy to build a high-quality sewer system.

Scheme of a sewer network with output to a septic tank: 1 – riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 – compensating air outlet; 4 – septic tank; 5 – treated wastewater; 6 – additional final filtration

The classic sewer scheme in general contains:

• sewer riser;
• pipes connecting the internal components of the system;
• external pipeline discharging general waste;
• receiver system.

According to existing standards for the layout of a one-story building, the areas closest to the external point of drainage are kitchen plumbing fixtures and sanitary unit.

The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site for the riser pipeline. The area of ​​the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external main, and the upper point is diverted to the roof.

Part of the general wiring in a private house - an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components

The most remote plumbing fixture in the utility area is connected to the riser by a pipeline of smaller diameter and taking into account a slope towards the riser of 1.5-2º. The formation rules are given in the article we recommend.

The laid line is used to connect other plumbing fixtures in the utility and technical area. The closest appliance to the riser is traditionally the toilet.

Thus, a gravity flow diagram of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of installation of a plumbing network it is possible to organize a gravity circuit. Then the problem is solved by introducing into the circuit additional equipment– pump.

Pipeline in a 2-3-story building

The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided for on each of the existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions it seems like a somewhat more complicated schematic option compared to the first one - a one-story house.

Classic wiring for buildings with two or more floors: 1- centralized collector; 2 – inspection well; 3 – riser; 4, 5 – revisions; 6 – check valve; 7 – forced movement of wastewater at the basement level

Standards and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerning toilet rooms, provides wiring for rooms located one above the other.

Riser pipe designed for multi-storey buildings, is passed through all floors and brought to the roof level, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m and higher if the roof is not in use.

For the option with an exploitable roof, this parameter is at least 1.5 m. For pitched roofs(a popular design for private houses), the riser is installed at a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.

Also, the design of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points where the pipeline passes through the floors.

Accordingly, transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire-proof cuffs.

Practical example of anchoring polypropylene pipelines, including risers of the sewer system using special clamps. As you can see, the fastening necessarily involves the use of rubber pads

The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber linings. Guidelines for choosing sewer pipes for internal wiring, we recommend reading useful information.

The fastening is carried out without tight tightening - overhead, to ensure natural free movement of the pipe vertically. The lower part of the riser is led through an outlet to the external sewer line.

What you need to know about pipe laying?

Traditionally, drainage lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, and utility sinks are made using pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. Toilet discharge channels require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.

At the present stage, polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on specific project and load (throughput) capacities of the sewer network can be used different diameters linear pipelines and risers.

The table below shows possible options.

In any case, the diameter of the riser pipe for the sewerage system of a private house is always assumed to be equal to or greater than the largest floor drain in diameter

Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are installed, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.

Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing a uniform slope norm of 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum permissible slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm for the entire length of a separately installed sewer section.

The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient method for laying pipelines. In addition, thanks to these circuit elements, cross-country ability is created with a lower drag coefficient

Direct connections between the outlet lines and the riser are made using tees and crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. Executing the scheme in this way allows you to avoid clogging of pipelines during operation.

The scheme and apartment necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleaning) at points in the line where there is a high risk of blockages.

For a circuit in a private house, the location of such circuit elements is shown in the table below:

Sewerage construction procedure

Let us briefly consider the main stages of constructing a sewer pipeline in a private home. Even if you do not decide to carry out the work on your own, you will be able to control the hired specialists.

Stage #1 – installation of the yard network

The creation of a sewer system begins with the stage of constructing an external (yard) network. If the length of the yard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional inspection well is installed. In this case, the minimum permissible distance from the wall of the house to the inspection well is 3 - 5 m.

You will be introduced to the methods of constructing the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.

In the laying of external sewer lines they are now mainly used, which are attractive due to their light weight, excellent performance characteristics and affordable price. When laying a route above the seasonal freezing level, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice jams.

Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of centralized network sewerage. In this case, an autonomous system for collecting and filtering wastewater is installed (). However, the principle of the “external internal network” connection remains the same.

One of the simple and convenient solutions for private households is a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in the rather high price, so not every home owner decides to pay for its purchase.

Stage #2 – construction of the house entry point

Next, you need to build an input unit directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the unit is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to subsidence of the structure.

The input unit and the external pipeline are reliably insulated.

Input device diagram (one of the possible): 1 – crumpled clay; 2 – cement-based mortar; 3 – resin strand; 4 – sleeve based on steel pipe

Stage #3 – installation of risers and bends

On next stage riser pipes are being installed internal network. It is recommended that these circuit components be assembled and pre-installed in assembled form without fastening or with partial fastening.

Full fastening is carried out after final assembly the entire system. Having completed the installation of riser pipes, horizontal sewerage drain lines are built taking into account the required slopes.

The process of building horizontal internal drain lines involves laying sockets and fittings in the direction opposite the flow of wastewater.

Stage #4 - connecting plumbing

At the final stage, each device is connected to the corresponding outlet through a siphon pipe.

Additionally, it is worth noting: provided the building height is less than 10 meters, the internal sewer system can be built on the basis of free-flow pipes. At higher altitudes, pressure pipes are used.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Below is a video demonstration of the practice of laying out and laying a pipeline network, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full installation cycle, including testing the system using the simplest methods.

Knowing the procedure for arranging a system for draining wastewater from a house, you can try to build a sewer system yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline from the outside, assistance will be required to bury the pipes in the ground.

If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be designed correctly and will serve your family for decades.

Please leave comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and your own experience gained in the field of installation or repair of a sewer pipeline. Ask questions about controversial, interesting or unclear points.

Sewerage in a private house is a pipe distribution consisting of two parts: internal and external. Therefore, when sewerage is installed, the process itself is divided into two stages: assembly of the internal sewer system and the external one. Everything is done separately, taking into account calculations of the diameter of the pipes and the choice of material from which they are made. Gone are the days when the sewage system of a private house was assembled from cast iron or asbestos pipes. They served their purpose by handing over the reins to plastic pipes. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to choose the right sewer pipes.

Types of sewer pipes

Today, to assemble sewer systems in private homes, they use polymer pipes two types: PVC and polypropylene. The first ones are used for outdoor system, the second for internal.

Sewer pipes

Polypropylene sewer pipes have grey colour and a range of standard diameters from 20 mm to 400 mm. Moreover, their connection is bell-shaped using a rubber cuff, which ensures the tightness of the joint. Manufacturers offer various fittings to facilitate the installation of the sewer system: elbows, bends, crosses, tees, adapters, plugs and other profile products of different diameters.

As for PVC sewer pipes, everything is the same here as far as connections and fittings are concerned. But they are orange or red, so it will be impossible to confuse them. Plus, a diameter that starts from 50 mm and ends at 1200 mm. For external sewerage of a private house, diameters of 110-200 mm are most often used.

Internal sewerage of a private house

Installing the internal sewer system of a private house is more difficult than the external one. It's all about what's inside the house a large number of water consumers: taps, mixers, showers, washing machines, toilets. And they are all located in different rooms. Therefore, the piping has complex circuit, which is assembled into a single system and brought out, connecting with outer part sewerage. If a house is built on several floors, then each of them has its own system, and all floors are united by one vertical riser, which is assembled from a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Typically, the riser is installed in the place where the sewage system will be discharged to the outside of the house. Here it is important to follow one important rule - the shorter the distance, the more efficient system works. Therefore, the riser is installed near the wall of the building, which will be closest to the sewer well or septic tank.

As for the piping of the internal sewer system, you have to take into account the volume of water that must pass through it.

• A pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm can be drawn from the sink.
• From kitchen sink 32-40 mm.
• From shower or bath 32-50 mm.
• From a washing machine or dishwasher 40-50 mm.
• From the toilet 110 mm.

And the more connections are made into one system, the larger the diameter of the pipe that unites them. For example, if a sink and a dishwasher in the kitchen are connected into one network, then a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is installed under each of them. But they are connected when they are led out of the kitchen into a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, which is then, for example, combined with a sink and a bathtub, which in the final result will give a combined pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Therefore, it is very important to first draw a piping diagram with the exact installation of plumbing fixtures, and only then calculate the dimensions of the pipework with an accurate determination of the diameters of the purchased products.

Sewage layout diagram for one floor of a private house

Installation process rules

There are certain rules for installing sewer pipes that are installed in the internal wiring.

• The socket of the sewer pipe, which is connected to the very first and last consumer, must be located at least 80 cm from the floor level. That is, this is the consumer farthest from the riser. If there are not many fittings along the water path, then you can lower the installation level to 30 cm.
• The toilet must be connected to the riser with a pipe of the same diameter as the riser itself. And its length should not exceed 1 m.
• Each plumbing fixture must be equipped with a water seal (siphon).
• The slope of sewer pipes should be 2-3 mm per meter of pipe length.
• Fastening to the load-bearing structures of the building is carried out using special clamps, of which there should be two for each element. Clamps are usually installed at socket connections.

Internal sewerage in a private house

The plastic pipe is easy to trim, so it can be cut to the required length using a hacksaw or a grinder. All connections, as mentioned above, are socket. Therefore, it will not be difficult to assemble the sewer system yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the installation diagram of the sewerage system.

Attention! Where to start installing the sewer system: from the riser or from the plumbing fixture, everyone decides for himself.

If a private house has a basement in its structure, then all the wiring of the first floor can be done there. This is convenient in terms of installation and maintenance. Secondly, the pipeline will not be visible, which will increase the space of the premises and the aesthetics of their appearance. It is not recommended to install sewer pipes into walls. Boxes of their different types are usually built for them. finishing materials with a frame structure.

Installation of sewerage in the basement of a house

External sewerage of a private house

It is simpler than the internal one in terms of its installation. But in addition to pipes, the sewer system includes a septic tank or well, as well as several inspection wells. The installation of the sewerage system (external) begins with excavation work. Using shovels, a pit is dug for a septic tank or a well, or there may be several pits if the septic tank is built in the form of several overflow wells. Next, a trench is dug from it to the house. The main requirement for it is straightness without a large number of bends and turns, plus adhere to the slope towards the well.

By the way, about the slope of the pipeline for the external system. It all depends on the diameter of the pipe used. For example, for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, the slope should be 20 mm per linear meter of the assembled pipeline. For a pipe 160 mm – 8 mm slope, for 200 mm – 7 mm.

Slope of installation of sewer pipes

As for the minimum number of taps, this is an important component on which the efficiency of the entire system depends. The whole point is that any, even the slightest, turn from the straightness of the pipeline is a place where a blockage can form. And if the angle of inclination is chosen incorrectly, then it is guaranteed to form in exactly this place.

Installation rules

If a standard septic tank made of plastic or metal is installed, then there should be no problems with its installation. The bottom of the pit is leveled horizontally, covered with sand 15-20 cm thick, and compacted. After which you need to lower the septic tank into it.

Attention! The inlet pipe of the septic tank must be oriented exactly along the sewer pipe. It is optimal if they are located on the same axis. Deviations are possible, but small.

Installed septic tank

If a well or septic tank is installed from different materials, that is, an unfinished option, then the complexity of installing sewerage in a private house increases sharply. For example, a well made of reinforced concrete rings. It is necessary to dig a pit, fill it with a sand or crushed stone cushion 15-20 cm thick, compact it, pour a concrete layer at least 7 cm thick, and, if possible, lay a reinforcing frame of metal mesh or fittings.

Then you need to wait a few days to concrete base dried out. And after that, assemble the reinforced concrete rings themselves using a crane. And before this, the rings are additionally waterproofed from the outside. All this is difficult and expensive. Therefore, the easiest option is to install a ready-made septic tank, or, at worst, a sealed or leaking container.

Connection of two sewer pipes

Now regarding the installation of sewer pipes itself. With their bias everything is clear. But there is one important process - their thermal insulation. Until recently, sewer pipes were laid below the freezing level of the soil. Why was a huge amount of excavation work carried out, because in many regions this figure is more than 1.5 m. Today, this method of sewer insulation cannot be used. Application of thermal insulation materials different types solves this problem.

Of course, many people are faced with the question of which pipe insulation to choose. To date perfect option– these are heat-insulating cylinders (shells), which are made from almost all types of insulation: mineral wool, foamed polymers of various kinds and so on. The shell is simply put on the pipe and secured with clamps or tape. By the way, internal sewerage pipes located in an unheated basement also need to be insulated with this material.

Thermal insulation of sewer pipe

If the external sewer system is very long, then it is necessary to install inspection wells in it. One well per 50 m of straight pipeline length. A well must be installed near branches or connections (for example, when a branch from an outdoor pool or summer kitchen is connected to the main branch). Their purpose is to monitor sewer flows and, if necessary, carry out repairs and cleaning of the system through them.

You can purchase ready-made wells, such as those offered by sewer pipe manufacturers today. Or you can make them yourself from the same pipes only with a larger diameter, for example, 400 or 500 mm. They are installed in trenches in a vertical position and connected to the ends of the connected pipes.

Attention! Where to start installing sewer pipes: from a septic tank or from a house, everyone decides for themselves.

Installation diagram

• The bottom of the dug trench is leveled taking into account the slope of the sewerage system. Great precision is not required here.
• Done sand bedding 15-20 cm thick. It is this that will need to be strictly leveled to the slope of the pipe laying.
• After this, the pipe installation itself takes place. And at this stage, the angle of inclination of the system is checked using a long level.
• Connection of a pipe with a septic tank and a pipe in the internal part of the sewer system of a private house.
• As for insulation, the cylinders are put on before the connection is made. That is, first the pipe is aligned strictly along the slope, then insulation is put on it, and after that it is laid in the trench.
• The trenches are filled with soil.

Installation of pipes on a slope

Ensuring comfort and quality of life in a country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to ensure a comfortable life is the convenience of drainage of used water and waste products. Correctly calculated at the design stage and subsequently correctly constructed sewerage system in a private house will be the key to long-term operation, which will not cause any problems. You can create such a design with your own hands if you approach the issue with maximum responsibility.

Primary requirements

To avoid any problems during the process of creating a sewer system in own home, it is best to follow as much as possible this process all requirements and standards that are specified in regulatory documentation - SNiP. In this case, everything will definitely function flawlessly for a long period of time.

In any building where a pipeline is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be installed that will remove wastewater. Drainage mechanisms must also be created at the sites. In general, such a network will not only provide a comfortable life, but will also not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time the building is used.

Typically, sewerage consists of the following systems:

• storm drain, which drains water;
• external;
• internal.

They must be laid in such a way that various building sanitary requirements for sewerage in your own home are met.

Among these requirements are:

• ensuring normal cleansing;
• no risk of flooding of the building;
• ensuring the required volume of wastewater;
• hermetically sealed accumulation and transportation of wastewater.

If we talk about the requirements for internal systems of this type, they must consist of the following elements:

• riser to which all pipes are attached;
• dividing pipes, which pumps wastewater in the direction of the riser;
• plumbing fixtures for drainage.

According to the standards, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for the free transportation of liquid from the places where the drainage takes place to the pipes that carry it outside the building. When laying sewerage inside a building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymer are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, this mechanism must also have ventilation. Usually it is carried out through a riser. Above each element there is an exhaust area overlooking the roof.

If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP number 2.04.03-85.

Regarding this regulatory document, the following points should be taken into account:

• Wells for maintenance and cleaning must be installed in the mechanism;
• to clean wastewater, you need an installation using biomethods;
• if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
• pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at a level of ten to twelve centimeters;
• if the building has few floors, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
• if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to opt for a pressure sewer system.

Another important point is the selection of design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.

There may be three options for septic tanks that are used:

• aeration tanks;
• storage septic tank;
• treatment plant

Now let's talk about them in a little more detail. Aerotanks are the latest solutions using several cleaning techniques. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is purified to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily drained into the ground, reservoir and used for irrigation. A septic tank of the storage category is an improved version of a cesspool in which cleaning is not carried out, but only wastewater is collected. When the septic tank fills to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done using special sewage disposal equipment.

If we talk about differences from a cesspool, then no filtration into the ground is carried out in this case. This means that no harm is caused to the environment. But still, this type of septic tank has been used extremely infrequently in recent years due to the high cost of services of special sewage disposal equipment. This type can only be used if you live in the house relatively infrequently.

Septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for purification of sewage. As a rule, at first the wastewater settles in them, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground to achieve this goal.

Their use makes it possible to purify water by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.

For this reason, the best types of soil for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the soil is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It’s just that then the installation of a septic tank will be too expensive, since creating filtration fields will still require special installation.

Kinds

In your own home, sewerage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.

Typically there can be three of these criteria:

• sewerage location;
• the purposes for which it will be used;
• difference in the type of wastewater that will be collected.

If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is as follows.

• Outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other objects and transporting it to special treatment facilities or a place of discharge into a centralized sewerage inlet. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as rotary and inspection type wells.
• Internal. Such a sewer system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special devices water intake and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the highway to a special complex external sewerage.
• Wastewater treatment. Before wastewater is discharged into the ground or reservoir, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).

If we take the criterion of collected wastewater, then sewerage is as follows.

• Domestic. It can also be called domestic or sanitary. It is usually designated K1. This type of sewage system includes the entire complex of devices that are connected to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, ladders, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines that consist of pipes different sizes, fastening mechanisms and fittings.
• Industrial or manufacturing. Usually in diagrams its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type sewerage is intended to drain water that is used in some technological process. This type of sewage system is not used in our own homes, but it cannot be ignored.
• Shower or rain. This type is usually designated as K2. Such a system is a whole collection drainpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels and so on. Typically, most of such a mechanism is laid open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.

It should also be noted that sewerage in a private house can be of two types:

• autonomous;
• centralized.

The selected type will depend on where exactly the wastewater will be discharged - into your own septic tank or into the central main line through a collector-type well. If local sewer runs close to home and connecting to it will be cheap, then it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the costs of use in this case will still be lower.

In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.

We are talking about the following types:

• septic tank:
• dry closet;
• bioremediation using a special unit;
• cesspool.

We have already talked about septic tanks, so let’s talk about other types. A dry toilet would be a suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. And it does not solve the issue of drainage from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is beneficial due to high productivity and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs of this option will be considerable due to the need for energy consumption and the high cost of equipment. The option with a cesspool was not so long ago the most common. But recently the amount of waste has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.

Preparatory work

Each of the above treatment plant solutions requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting work on creating a sewer system, the necessary preparation should be carried out so that the system can actually work efficiently after it is built and put into operation.

What to consider?

Before you start creating a sewer system, you should calculate everything down to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of location for installing the system.

Its placement will be influenced by such factors.

• How close is groundwater located?
• Relief features of the territory where the sewerage system will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
• Physical structure of the soil.
• Availability or absence of drinking water sources.
• How much does the soil freeze in winter?

Sandy soil is usually loose, which means that liquid can easily pass through it, which means there is a possibility of contamination from household waste. Using the example of the simplest solution - a septic tank made of concrete rings or tires, let's look at what needs to be taken into account. First you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in the house uses two hundred liters of water, which must sit for three days.

That is, for a family with four members, a septic tank with a volume of slightly less than 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.

In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same to the neighboring site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a pond or water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if there is an increased level of groundwater in the area, then the design must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.

Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials. The time of use of the entire mechanism will depend on this factor. If we are talking about internal sewerage, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross-section of 11 centimeters are usually used, and for dilution - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be longer.

Connections should usually be made using cuffs made of rubber, which are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then other pipes are used orange color. They are made in this way color scheme to make them easier to find in the ground. They are made of particularly strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.

Design

As it became clear, any installation and construction work cannot be carried out without first creating design documentation. And sewerage installation will be no exception. A sewerage laying scheme is formed from the general layout of the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured in any way, depending on the customer’s wishes.

Important aspects should be listed that cannot be ignored:

• drainage from the room where the toilet is located must be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross-section of 10-12 centimeters and a length of at least 1 meter;
• for drains from the shower and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene pipes of five centimeters in size;
• if the building has two or more floors and there is more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (for a one-story house this rule does not work and it can be placed anywhere);
• distribution bends should be made by combining two bends made of plastic, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk that the sewer will become clogged;

• The toilet should be connected directly to the sewer riser on minimum distance from the pipe;
• other plumbing fixtures should be connected to the sewer network above the toilet connection point to eliminate the possibility of feces getting into the drainage lines;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof and a fan hood must be installed on it to ensure ventilation of the sewer inside;
• the maximum distance for connecting plumbing-type appliances to the riser should not be more than three meters, and for a toilet – a meter.

In addition, other expert advice should be given:

• when creating an internal sewerage project, you should first draw up a scale diagram of the building, first taking all measurements using a tape measure;
• now it is necessary to determine the installation location of the risers;
• Conventionally, we mark the location of plumbing fixtures on all floors;
• depict the location of the pipes on the graph;
• we determine the dimensions of the riser and waste pipe based on the number of devices;
• we find the point of exit of the sewerage from the building;
• we summarize the length of all pipes and count the shaped elements;
• Now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage diagram.

Installation

So, now let’s move on to the actual installation of sewerage in our own home and find out how to install it correctly. The laying of the sewer system, after the project has been made and calculated, should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. You need to calculate the volume of the septic tank in advance, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process it would not be superfluous to use special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.

Now we create a formwork structure from boards or chipboards, which must immediately be reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. For greater confidence, you can tie such rods using steel wire. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. These sections will become the entry points for the system main and the overflow pipe that connects the sections of the septic tank.

Now the entire formwork structure should be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to distribute the solution evenly. Note that this structure must be monolithic, for which reason it is usually poured once. An example should also be given if the installation of a two-chamber septic tank is required. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure where the waste will settle. It is in this part that solid large fractions of waste will settle below. But in the second part, slightly purified liquid will accumulate.

Thanks to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go into the adjacent chamber.

There is no need to make a bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be laid one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter the effluent. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. We install an overflow pipe between the parts. It is located somewhere at the level of the upper third of the wells. Note that summer residents usually use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewer installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide higher quality cleaning.

It’s also easy to make a cover for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork structure. Or you can take a reinforced concrete slab. A special inspection hatch must be made in this part. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as the filling of sections. After all this, when the installation is completed, you need to fill the pit with sand or earth. The sump tank needs to be cleaned about once every two to three years.

The next step will be laying the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must run downhill so that waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for high-quality operation of the pipeline. But the average is about two degrees.

Note that the sewer system should be laid lower than the freezing level of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying pipes at the bottom of the trench, create a dense sand cushion, compacting it well. This will allow for reliable pipe fixation and prevent the pipeline from collapsing when seasonal soil shifts.

If we talk about the most correct scheme, then for a dacha the best solution would be to lay a direct line from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well in this place for inspection. You can use cast iron or plastic pipes intended for outdoor sewage systems. Everything at the joints should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is filled with sand, and only then soil is placed on it.

To connect the inside to the outside, corrugated pipes are used. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.

To lay pipes in the building, we will need:

• a sharper knife;
• saw for working with plastic;
• sets of rubber installation seals.

First we need to prepare the shaped elements.

We are talking about the following elements:

• transition couplings, which can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
• connection fittings with three or four holes, which allow for pipeline branching;
• transition bends necessary to form transitions between pipes of the same size;
• bends forming corners, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.

In general, sewer installation in your own home will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, the vertical risers are installed in required quantity. Usually they are installed from the base to the roof, so that this entire structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The installation location is usually selected closer to the toilets, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, under each other, and the house is small, then one riser will be quite enough for such a building.

Note that the furthest plumbing fixture should not be further from the riser than five meters.

Now the inlet pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After this, lateral branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be connected to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the overall performance. The last stage the devices in question will be connected using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the earth, as well as how the groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case everything will be individual.

It would also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a mechanism for country sewerage without pumping. Summer residents are increasingly looking at such systems, and therefore it would not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by a two- or three-chamber septic tank, which will be active at the same time. If the mechanism has two tanks, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chamber ones - one second. In the first part, heavy substances settle. As the liquid is filled, it enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters the well for drainage or filtration field. The important thing here is that both containers are sealed.

This type of system requires pumping, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using drainage or fecal sewage pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Such equipment will be used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be influenced by both the composition of waste water and the size of the reservoir tank. The structure will need to be cleaned when the silt reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.

Over six months, somewhere around 70-80 liters of sediment usually accumulates in the container.

Standards for the location of sewer outlets for various plumbing fixtures

Any sewer system can be designed in such a way that all plumbing devices that are connected to it have a minimum number of different intermediate elements, which will only complicate the design of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. The ideal solution is when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer pipe. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located before creating the project. It would be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given location.

At the same time, there are features for different categories of plumbing equipment that make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of various plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of the clean floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of equipment and sewer pipes and the location of water outlets are set. This parameter should be known in advance, for which reason the installation of sewerage pipelines can be carried out even before the floor screed is poured and the finishing coating is applied.

Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.

• Height of siphon connection to sewer pipe for the washbasin should be at a level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the clean floor. Its center should be directly in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
• The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters if we are talking about a wall-hung toilet.
• In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
• If a waste shredder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but offset in any direction.
• For a wall-mounted toilet this figure will be about 18-19 centimeters.
• For washing and dishwashers the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
• For bathtubs, as well as shower cabins with a tray, it is necessary that the bell-shaped center of a sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters be at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. If this is not possible, then installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of bathtub models, the connection for which is carried out at a level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.

These recommendations almost always work, since manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted standards, which, by the way, are not prescribed by law anywhere. But in reality, anything can happen, so actually having the equipment installed in a predetermined location will be a big plus.

Possible problems and their solutions

It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, problems arise in the operation of the sewerage system in your own home.

The most common troubles are the following.

• The sewer smells bad. To eliminate the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are connected to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always a little water. This type of barrier prevents the passage of unpleasant odors.

• Blockage. It often happens that the system becomes clogged, even if the installation was carried out according to all the necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special tees, so that there is no need to disassemble the system until the plug is removed.
• Freezing sewer. This is another problem that occurs frequently. The reason is that many people simply lay the drains above the freezing point of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
• Inconsistency of various elements with each other. To avoid such a situation, installation should begin with the installation of an outlet assembly connecting the riser to the pipe that approaches the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe trim. Its diameter should be larger size riser pipes. Usually we are talking about a figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should protrude from the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.

To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, you should be guided by the following principles when installing such a system:

• if the pipes have different diameter, then they must be joined using special adapters;
• using oblique tees, you can connect risers and pipe outlets;
• the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
• installation of external sewerage should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
• as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
• Where the kitchen and bathroom pipes intersect, a manifold should be placed.

To ensure that the sewer system in your own home always works efficiently and effectively, and also functions well, experts recommend following a few simple rules. The first thing to do is to regularly flush the external and internal pipelines with plenty of hot water. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and kitchen, it is required to use garbage traps to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.

Another important recommendation from experts is to pump out various sediments from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause a breakdown of the entire system. Another expert tip is to keep grease waste out of your drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause pipe clogging.

Experts recommend that when purchasing components and pipes, check whether there is a rubber lining in the socket, since many people constantly lose it. Under no circumstances should a fan pipe be connected to the ventilation mechanism. According to experts, when installing PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints due to the fact that the connecting points are extremely fragile and unstable.

It is also recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is usually installed as close as possible to the area where the pipe enters the building in an accessible place. In addition, if the building has the usual set of water consumption points, then installing a drain pipe is completely optional; you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.

In general, as you can see, creating a sewer system in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and a lot of attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, much will depend on what type of sewerage system will be created. Pressure sewerage will have its own characteristics, and external or internal sewerage will have its own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with specialists.

From this article you can learn how to create a sewer system in a private house with your own hands: a diagram on the basis of which the construction of a waste system is carried out, its step-by-step production with useful tips and recommendations from experts, information about laying a pipeline and related procedures. Review of popular types of sewage systems, their features, specificity for suburban areas and prices for them.

Unlike city apartments, not every private or country house has all the communication systems. Therefore, the owners of such housing are forced to install them themselves in order to ensure basic comfort conditions. If the organization of this system, along with water supply, was initially included in the building design, then there should be no problems with their construction. It is much more difficult if you have to turn on the sewerage system diagram in a private house, which is already ready.

The simplest option for implementing such an idea would be a project in which the sink and shower are installed inside the building, and the toilet is located outside it on the street. In this case, you can do without complex work on laying the pipeline, as well as installation of treatment facilities. This scheme involves removing the sewer pipe from the house and supplying it to the sewer pit.

The second option is more difficult, since the toilet, shower and sink in this case are located inside the building. If you make incorrect calculations or violate the system construction technology, there is a risk of polluting the site and the water located nearby with waste. In such situations, you cannot do without a septic tank.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend placing the toilet, bathroom and kitchen areas nearby. Due to this, it is possible to organize a single collector, thanks to which the waste liquid will be directed to a waste pit or septic tank.

How to choose a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house

To choose the right sewerage system and scheme for its creation, you need to consider the following factors:

• whether the house is used for permanent or temporary residence;
• groundwater level;
• the number of people living in the house on a permanent basis;
• daily water consumption taking into account the needs of residents and household appliances such as a dishwasher or washing machine;
• climatic conditions;
• area of ​​the summer cottage to determine accessible areas for installation of a cleaning system;
• type of soil and features of its structure;
• regulatory requirements of SNIP.

Conventionally, existing sewage systems can be divided into two categories: storage and purification. A more detailed classification will allow you to choose the type of system that suits the operating conditions, since even schemes of the same type can have significant differences.

A cesspool is most often used for areas with a house used for temporary residence, for example, only a week a month. This does not consume a large amount of water. An important condition is that the groundwater level lies no higher than 1 m from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, water pollution from wastewater is inevitable. This type of sewer system is rarely used in modern construction.

Storage tanks are used for the construction of sewerage in a private house with a high groundwater level. Since the tank is sealed, there is no risk of waste contaminating the soil. However, this system has disadvantages. Firstly, additional expenses, associated with the need to call a sewage truck for periodic pumping of wastewater. Secondly, the plan will have to provide a place for this equipment to enter the site and its placement.

Types of sewers in a private house with your own hands: photos and features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks are the simplest soil purification systems. The principle of their operation is in many ways similar to cesspools. The scheme is suitable if the groundwater does not lie high. If the house is used for permanent residence and there is an active use of water, it is not recommended to use a single-chamber septic tank scheme for sewer construction.

Two-chamber septic tanks also depend on the location of the groundwater level. It is desirable that they lie at least 1 m below the bottom of the system.

Helpful advice! In order for the sewage system in the form of a two-chamber septic tank to function normally, it is recommended that the sand and crushed stone that was used during construction be changed every 5 years.

Septic tanks with biological filters are considered the best sewage systems in a private house where people live on a permanent basis. To process waste, special microorganisms are used, which are poured into the water. There are no restrictions on such sewerage; you just need to connect to the electrical network.

A septic tank with a filtration field carries out two methods of cleaning at once - soil and biological. The tank is divided into two sections. Installation of such a sewer system is possible only if the groundwater lies at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. Construction will require a significant amount of free space. Moreover, the distance to neighboring buildings, as well as the nearest water sources, should not be less than 30 m.

Aeration tanks or systems with forced air supply are very expensive, but due to their advantages they are worth the money spent. Such structures are not limited in terms of installation, however, they require a power source and the constant presence of people. The minimum price of sewerage for a private house with installation in this case is approximately $4,000.

How to properly make a sewer system in a private house yourself

The construction of any communications must be carried out according to a previously developed and approved project. Such a project usually has a diagram for creating internal and external sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands.

The internal system includes:

• risers;
• highways;
• areas for connecting plumbing fixtures.

Plumbing fixtures include items such as a shower stall that does not have a tray, a bathtub, a sink and a toilet. The internal system ends with an outlet pipe. This element is located at the level of the foundation part of the building.

When arranging an external sewer system in a dacha with your own hands, there must be an external pipeline that ensures the drainage of wastewater from the building, as well as storage or purification equipment. When the project is ready and approved, the optimal diameter and size of the pipes, as well as the amount of material required for the work, can be determined. At the same stage, a sewer collector is selected.

Helpful advice! During the construction process, it is better to rely on the requirements regulatory documents. SNIPs will help you decide how to properly install a sewer system in a private house, as well as eliminate errors in the design process.

Choosing a place to install a septic tank for the sewage system of a country house with your own hands

When installing a sewer system, choosing a location for installing a septic tank is extremely important. The following factors influence its placement:

• depth of groundwater;
• relief features of the site (since the movement of water within the system is carried out by gravity, the slope of the territory should be taken into account);
• soil freezing level in winter time;
• placement of drinking water sources;
• soil structure.

Sandy soils have a loose structure. Due to this, liquid can easily pass through the soil, so there is a possibility of contamination of groundwater with waste.

When installing a septic structure, it is important to adhere to certain requirements:

1. The distance from a residential building is at least 5 m.
2. Distance from the source of drinking water (well) – 30 m.
3. The distance from green spaces is at least 3 m.

In addition, it will be necessary to equip an area for the entry of sewage disposal equipment.

Installation of internal sewerage for a private home: how to organize the work correctly

On the diagram of the internal sewerage system in a private house, you need to mark all the points of the system with your own hands. First, the central riser is installed. The optimal pipe diameter is 110 mm. To ensure that gases leave the room without hindrance, the riser should be installed so that it top part was brought out into the attic or protruded above the level of the roof of the building. The central riser must be located at a distance of at least 4 m from the windows of the building.

Next, a horizontal pipeline is laid. Installing inspection hatches will allow you to monitor the condition of the system and promptly clean it. These elements must be placed at the lowest point of the sewer and above the toilet.

For each plumbing fixture, it is necessary to provide a siphon with a water seal. This will prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. When laying a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, it is recommended to avoid turning at an angle of 90°. These elements make it difficult to move wastewater.

The pipe coming from the toilet is connected directly to the system. To do this, it is better to use a pipe with a minimum diameter of 100 mm. For the bathtub and sink, you can take a smaller pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The line should be placed at an angle that will ensure the movement of liquid. You also need to make a blank in the foundation for a hole to bring the system out. A check valve must be installed on this pipe to prevent wastewater from flowing back into the system.

Helpful advice! If it is not possible to eliminate 90° turns, the rotating area of ​​the pipeline can be made from two 45° corner pieces.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation technique in a private house: preparation for installation of a septic tank

The design is a two-chamber collector, the sections of which are connected to each other using an overflow pipe. To begin with, a pit is dug 3 m deep of the required volume, taking into account the number of permanent residents in the house. It can be formed manually or using special equipment (excavator). At the bottom it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion up to 15 cm thick.

Then a formwork structure is formed on the basis of chipboard or boards. It must be strengthened with a reinforcing belt, which is made of metal rods. Bandaging is carried out using steel wire. After this, you need to make two holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. This will create the entry zones for the system main and the overflow pipe connecting the sections.

The formwork structure is concreted. To ensure that the solution is distributed evenly, you need to use a vibrating tool. The septic tank must be monolithic, so it is filled once.

Related article:

Review of available methods for treating wastewater. The operating principle of various sewerage devices.

Instructions for installing external sewerage: installation of a two-chamber septic tank

The bottom of the first compartment must be formed by pouring concrete. The result should be a sealed section that will be used as a sump. Here the separation of solid large fractions will occur, which will settle at the bottom. Clarified, partially purified water will accumulate on top. Due to the connecting pipe, it will flow into the adjacent compartment.

Helpful advice! The use of aerobic bacteria will enhance the decomposition of solid particles.

There is no need to organize the bottom in the second compartment. The section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. Laying one on top of the other will also work. The recommended diameter size is 1-1.5 m. A thick cushion of sediment is formed at the bottom of the compartment, which acts as a filter for wastewater. Pebbles, crushed stone, and gravel are suitable for these purposes.

An overflow pipe is installed between the two compartments. The inclination angle is 30 mm per linear meter. This pipe is located at the level of the upper third. Most often the owners summer cottages when installing a sewer system in a private house, a two-section design is used, although it is possible to install a septic tank even with 4 compartments, which will provide a better level of cleaning.

You can also make the ceiling for the septic tank yourself. For this, formwork and concrete are used. As an alternative, reinforced concrete slabs can be used. It is mandatory to install an inspection hatch that allows monitoring the exhaust and filling of sections. Then the pit must be filled with soil or sand. The septic tank should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Organization of sewerage wiring for a private house: how to lay the pipeline correctly

From the area where it comes out of the foundation sewer pipe and a line needs to be laid to the septic tank. The pipeline must be located at a slope, which will ensure the drainage of waste water. The larger the diameter of the pipes used, the smaller the angle of inclination required for full operation of the pipeline. The average is 2°.

In the diagram, the depth of laying sewerage in a private house with your own hands should be below the level of soil freezing in winter. The average value is 1 m. In warm regions, there is no need to deepen the pipes; 0.7 m will be enough. If the house is located in a cold region, the depth should be increased to 1.5 m. At the bottom of the trench, before laying the pipes, you need to form a dense sandy layer pillow, compacting it well. This procedure will allow you to securely fix the pipes and prevent the destruction of the main during seasonal mixing of soil.

The most optimal scheme for a summer cottage would be to lay a direct pipeline from the house to the collector. If necessary, you can perform a rotation. A manhole can be installed at this location. Pipes made of cast iron or plastic intended for external sewage are suitable for work. Recommended diameter is 110 mm. All joints must be sealed. The trench with the laid pipeline is first filled with sand and then soil.

Helpful advice! If the trenches for pipeline installation are shallow, the pipeline must be additionally insulated using thermal insulation materials.

Features of the construction of country sewerage without pumping

Systems that do not require pumping are usually represented by designs of two- or three-chamber septic tanks operating simultaneously. If the system has two tanks, at least ¾ of the structure is allocated to the sump, for three-chamber tanks - half. In the first section, heavy fractions settle. As it fills, the liquid is poured into the second compartment, where light particles are separated. In the third section, the water is fully purified from waste and supplied to drainage well or filter fields. It is important that the two containers are sealed.

This type of system also requires pumping, but not as often as with a conventional septic tank. This is done using drainage or fecal pump for sewerage, the price of which depends on the manufacturer and capacity and varies between 2,700-25,000 rubles. This equipment is used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump.

The frequency of the procedure is affected by the composition of the wastewater and the size of the tank. The structure must be cleaned when the height of the sludge reaches the overflow level. Over six months, about 60-90 liters of sediment accumulates in the tank. Based on this data and the capacity of the container, you can approximately determine how much time between cleanings.

To find out the required volume of a septic tank without pumping, you should daily norm multiply water consumption per person (200 l) by the number of residents and add another 20% to the resulting result. If the groundwater level is high, it is recommended to carry out concrete screed or lay a concrete slab for reinforcement.

A hole in the ground is dug taking into account the size of the septic tank. Add to this a minimum of 20 cm on each side, or better yet, even more. The pipes are laid on a sand bed in a similar way with a slope to a depth of 0.7-0.8 m.

Construction of a sewer system in a private house: installation price

The price for installing a turnkey septic tank is determined taking into account:

• features of excavation work, for example, the formation of a pit or supply trench;
• the need to build a system for soil purification;
• the cost of laying sewerage per meter in the ground (depending on the type of pipes and the length of the line, the average price is 35-65 rubles per 1 m);
• installation of the necessary equipment;
• the need for the construction of an additional system for the disposal of treated wastewater, etc.

Most often, if turnkey installation of septic equipment is carried out, 2-3 people are involved in the work. Since installation of the structure is carried out manually, there is no need to use specialized heavy equipment. As a result, the landscape remains untouched, and the owner of the site has a chance to save significantly. Changes to the site cannot be avoided if underground sewerage is being laid. The price per square meter of work performed is included in the total cost of turnkey work.

Helpful advice! To ensure that the system elements do not move during installation and do not float up, it is recommended to carry out the procedure of concreting the body.

If there are soils at the dacha that do not have filtering properties, like sand, installation work will increase significantly in price. Such soils include loam and clay. To ensure normal conditions for the full functioning of the system on the territory, it will be necessary to form a bulk-type filtration field.

The price of installing a sewerage system in a private house on a turnkey basis:

Septic tank model	price, rub.
Tank	from 18700
Cedar	from 79900
Uni-Sep	from 56000
TopBio	from 111700

Installing a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

As in the case of a residential building, the bathhouse sewerage system includes internal and external systems. Even if the building has a dry steam room, liquid drainage from the shower will be required. The water collection system depends on how the floors are installed. The sewerage diagram is included in the bathhouse design at the development stage and is laid out at the initial stage of construction even before the floors are installed.

If you plan to install wooden floors from planks, then the elements can be laid closely or with small gaps. If the covering is installed tightly, the floors are formed with a slope from one wall to another. Next, you should find the lowest point near the wall and leave a gap in this place, where the gutter will subsequently be installed (also with a slope). At the lowest point of its placement, a connection is made to the sewer discharge pipe.

Important! If the sauna sewage system involves collecting liquid from several rooms, including from the toilet, it is imperative to install a riser with ventilation.

If the wooden flooring will be made with cracks, small gaps (5 mm) should be left between the boards. A concrete base is made under the floor with a slope towards the central part of the room. A gutter and sewer pipe will be installed in this area. Instead of a concrete base, you can lay metal pallets on top of the insulated floor. wooden flooring. If the floors are self-leveling or tiled, a water inlet ladder is installed at the lowest point of the slope, which drains the wastewater into the pipe.

A step-by-step guide to building a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands

To install sewer pipes, you need to form ditches with a slope of 2 cm by 1 m. Their depth is 50-60 cm. A cushion should be made at the bottom of these trenches. To do this, pour a layer of sand 15 cm thick and compact it thoroughly. At the same time, do not forget about the slope.

Next, the sewer line is installed. Polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are laid in trenches. If necessary, a sewer riser is installed. It needs to be fixed to the wall using clamps. Ventilation must be provided. When the system is ready, the floor covering is installed using one of the previously discussed methods.

Upon completion of all work, the drains and gratings provided for by the project are connected to the system in the designated places. In the area where the water inlet connects to the outlet pipe, it is advisable to install a siphon. It will prevent odors from the sewer from penetrating back into the room. Most often, ladders are equipped with built-in water seals.

On sale you can find gutters made of asbestos cement, plastic or cast iron. It is not recommended to use wood and steel products, because... they quickly collapse under the influence of moisture. The minimum permissible diameter of the gutter is 5 cm. If the project provides for a toilet or other sanitary equipment, it is installed and connected. This concludes the work on organizing internal sewerage. The external system is performed in the manner described earlier and can be a septic tank or a drainage well.

Construction of a sewer system in a private house: ventilation diagram in a bathhouse

Air exchange in a bathhouse can be organized in various ways. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. Having studied the specifics of each method, you can choose the best option for a bath.

The first method involves creating a hole intended for feeding fresh air. It should be located behind the stove at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level. The exhaust air will be discharged through the hole on the opposite side. It must be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor. To enhance the movement of air flow at the outlet, you need to install exhaust fan. All openings are covered with gratings.

Helpful advice! The lower the ventilation hood is placed, the more intense the air exchange process will occur. It is important not to overdo it with the steam room in this regard, otherwise significant heat loss will occur.

The second method involves placing both holes in the same plane. In this case, the work will affect the wall opposite the one where the stove is located. The exhaust duct is placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor level; at a similar distance from the ceiling, you need to make an exhaust hole and install a fan in it. The channels are closed with gratings.

The third method is suitable for floor coverings where the boards are laid with gaps to drain liquid. The entrance hole is made at a height of 0.3 m from the floor on the wall behind the stove. In this case, there will be no need to install an outlet channel, since the exhaust air will exit through the gaps between the boards.

Do-it-yourself installation of an autonomous sewer system in a private house: video and recommendations

The material used for the manufacture of autonomous sewers is polypropylene, which is characterized by light weight, environmental friendliness, strength and high thermal conductivity. Wastewater treatment is carried out by certain types of bacteria that feed on organic waste. Access to oxygen is a prerequisite for the life of these microorganisms. The price of an autonomous sewer system in a private house is much higher than the cost of installing a conventional septic tank.

This is due to the numerous advantages of the systems autonomous type:

• high level of wastewater treatment;
• unique aeration cleaning system;
• no service costs;
• no need for additional acquisition of microorganisms;
• compact dimensions;
• no need to call a sewer truck;
• possibility of installation at high groundwater levels;
• absence of odors;
• long service life (up to 50 cm).

How much will it cost to build a sewer system in a private house: turnkey price

The capabilities of autonomous sewers Unilos Astra 5 and Topas 5 are considered the most optimal for summer cottages. These structures are reliable, they are able to provide comfortable living and necessary household amenities for residents of a country house. These manufacturers also offer other, no less effective models.

Average price of autonomous sewers Topas:

Name	price, rub.
Topas 4	77310
Topas-S 5	80730
Topas 5	89010
Topas-S 8	98730
Topas-S 9	103050
Topas 8	107750
Topas 15	165510
Topaero 3	212300
Topaero 6	341700
Topaero 7	410300

Note! The features of the autonomous sewage system Astra, Topas, Biotank and other models listed in the tables allow for deep biological treatment of drains. This figure in some cases reaches 98%. As a result of treatment, the wastewater turns into clear water with a small admixture of silt.

Average price of autonomous sewers Unilos:

Name	price, rub.
Astra 3	66300
Astra 4	69700
Astra 5	76670
Astra 8	94350
Astra 10	115950
Scarab 3	190000
Scarab 5	253000
Scarab 8	308800
Scarab 10	573000
Scarab 30	771100

The tables indicate standard system costs. The final price for installing an autonomous sewerage system on a turnkey basis is determined taking into account the prices for laying an external pipeline and other issues affecting excavation and installation work in general.

Average price of autonomous Tank type sewers:

Name	price, rub.
Biotank 3	40000
Biotank 4	48500
Biotank 5	56000
Biotank 6	62800
Biotank 8	70150

Tips for installing an autonomous sewer system in a summer cottage

As with any other system, it is recommended to install the pipeline at an angle from the house towards the cleaning tank. The optimal angle is from 2 to 5° per meter. If you do not adhere to this requirement, full disposal of wastewater by an autonomous sewage system for your dacha will become impossible.

When laying the highway, care should be taken to securely fix its elements. To eliminate the risk of pipe deformation and displacement during soil subsidence, the soil at the bottom of the trenches must be thoroughly compacted. If you fill the bottom with concrete, you will get a more reliable fixed base. When installing pipes, it is advisable to adhere to a straight path.

Be sure to check the joints for leaks. Liquid clay is usually used for joining. It is permissible to use specialized products recommended by the pipe manufacturer. If a highway is installed using elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the maximum permissible length of straight sections of the system is 5 m. When using products with a diameter of 100 mm, this figure is 8 m maximum.

Important! A waste storage tank cannot be placed at a distance of less than 10 m from residential buildings.

Do-it-yourself construction of an autonomous sewer system in a private house

First it is selected optimal place for installing a wastewater tank. To do this, you can use the data recommended for installing a conventional septic tank, then you can begin excavation work. A pit is dug to install the container. The dimensions of the recess in the ground must correspond to the dimensions of the tank with an allowance of 30 cm on each side.

The technology allows for the installation of a biological filter and a septic tank in one pit. Excavation also involve the formation of trenches for laying the pipeline. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a slope of 2 cm for every 0.1 m of the highway. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled with concrete. After the site has completely dried and hardened, installation can be carried out. plastic container. To fix the structure to the base, it is advisable to use cables.

At the next stage, the autonomous sewage system of a country house is assembled and the pipeline is supplied in accordance with a pre-designed scheme. At the same time, the biological filter blocks are filled. For these purposes, an absorbent with a bioactive effect and expanded clay can be used.

Once the entire system is installed, the holes in the soil are filled back in. For this, earth and sand are used; the use of a cement-sand mixture is allowed. All this is poured in layers and carefully compacted. At the same time, water is poured into the septic tank. The liquid level should be slightly above the top of the fill material. The pipeline is covered with sand and then with earth. In this case, there is no need to compact the backfill. The system can only be connected after the sewerage system has been checked.

Taking into account the above, manual installation of autonomous equipment is not so difficult. The use of ready-made structures eliminates any inconvenience associated with the drainage and treatment of wastewater. By adhering to the manufacturer's instructions, any owner of a summer cottage can install an efficient and trouble-free system with a long service life with his own hands. If another system is being installed, an ideal result is only possible if the calculations are performed correctly.

Technology for constructing sewerage systems in a private house: video instructions