Over the past few years, natural, environmentally friendly insulation materials have experienced a real boom in popularity. Low thermal conductivity, versatility of use, environmental friendliness, low price, durability - far from full list their advantages.
There is still time before the onset of severe frosts, and if you want to further insulate your house, then take a closer look at natural insulation materials, which we will talk about in our article.

Linen

Plant fibers have long been used as inter-crown sealants in wooden houses. Surely you have seen log house, caulked with tow, which is a waste product from flax processing.

Modern products are more technologically advanced - these are linen felt and rolls
ribbon tow. This tape is uniform in thickness and width and is convenient to use.

The same can be said about insulation made from short flax fiber, which is produced in the form of mats and slabs of different sizes and thicknesses of 50 and 100 millimeters, with a density of 25 - 40 kg/cu. m.

Linen is used for thermal insulation of external walls, roofs, partitions and ceilings. Due to its natural origin, the material can be used for internal sound insulation and insulation, and to increase fire resistance during the production process, boron salts are added to the insulation or surface treatment is carried out with fire retardant substances.

There is material that is completely natural, without any additives. The service life of linen thermal insulation is 70 years or more.

Hemp

Hemp insulation is similar to linen and is used in similar cases. main feature– it is not made by domestic manufacturers. This is understandable, in our country the industrial cultivation of hemp is prohibited, so only German goods in rolls and slabs can be found on sale different thicknesses and sizes. In terms of its performance qualities, insulation is in no way inferior to flax.

To obtain this type of insulation, peat is sifted, mixed with water and brought to a thick paste. Next, wood waste is added, pressed into blocks and dried. Thanks to the antiseptic properties of peat, fungi and mold do not appear in the blocks, and the porous structure is not damaged by freezing condensate. Therefore, vapor barrier membranes and forced ventilation of the premises are not needed.

As for the thermal insulation properties, a half-meter wall made of peat blocks corresponds to a wooden wall one and a half meters thick. The material is very durable, which is convenient for transportation and installation. The blocks are laid with dressing, without mortar, and can withstand significant loads and do not shrink. Therefore, peat blocks are used for the construction of partitions and walls in frame houses. Moreover, durability can reach more than 75 years.

"Ecowool"

This cotton wool is made from cellulose. Refers to environmentally friendly materials. Contains additives of boron mineral compounds, which give it antiseptic properties and fire resistance. It looks like a light, loose mass. It is applied to the insulated surface using a blowing machine. The prepared cavities are filled with the material; it easily penetrates into hard-to-reach places.

Cellulose wool can be used to insulate any home structure: floors, walls, internal partitions And pitched roofs. With the exception of rooms with high humidity, since ecowool is hygroscopic.

The insulation material contains new and recycled sheep's wool.
Available in the form of woolen fabric with a thickness of 20 to 120 millimeters of different densities. At high humidity can absorb about 30% of its dry weight in water, then releases it. This creates a comfortable microclimate in the room, and allows you to do without the use of vapor-proof film.

Suitable for thermal insulation of walls, partitions, ceilings, the space between rafters and in the construction of frame-panel houses. The material is attached to the wooden frame with a construction stapler.

Manufacturers add insect repellents to wool. In addition, the imported insulation is treated with fire retardants. Domestic material does not contain such additives, so it is more environmentally friendly.

They are made from shavings and other wood waste. Due to low thermal conductivity, good vapor permeability and high strength, soft boards are not only an excellent heat insulator, but also a good finishing material, which is easy to install. Moreover, it is easy to process using ordinary tools for wood.

Such slabs do not change their structure, they are not afraid of fluctuations in the relative humidity in the room, they do not deform and do not shrink. Suitable for insulation and soundproofing of any structures, especially wooden ones.

The material is quite exotic for our area, as it is made from the bark of the Mediterranean cork oak, which grows in Portugal. The ground bark is treated with hot steam, mixed with natural cork resin and pressed into molds.

Next they cut into slabs. The porous structure provides good thermal insulation and breathability, and the resins provide resistance to rotting and mold.
Lightweight cork slabs are easy to lay, they cut well. The material is used for both external and internal thermal insulation buildings. A façade insulated with a cork board can be plastered. Cork panels can also be used simply for finishing floors and walls.

Damask

Damask is an organic material made from storm emissions of the seaweed zoster. This plant is common in the Black Sea.

Kamka is a good heat insulator, does not rot, does not lose its properties when wet, and does not support combustion. Due to the large amount of calcium salts, rodents and harmful insects do not grow in it. When humidity is high, damask takes away excess moisture from the room, and when the air is dry, on the contrary, it moisturizes it.

This is one hundred percent environmentally friendly material. One might even say it is medicinal, as it contains organic compounds of iron, iodine, cobalt, zinc, and amino acids. It also contains a biologically active substance - fukondak polysaccharide, which has an antitumor effect. This material has a mild odor of iodine, hydrogen sulfide and bromine. It has a beneficial effect on the respiratory and nervous systems.

Insulating the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss in cold period and significantly improve the indoor microclimate in summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increased comfort, also significant savings on the family budget on heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.

In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. By preventing warm air from entering the attic, the insulation structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the roof space, which damages the rafters and floor beams. In addition, insulation allows you to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private home.

Anyone can carry out ceiling insulation work home handyman. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training for the performer. The tips below will help you avoid typical mistakes and carry out the planned work quickly, without any extra effort. By carefully planning the work process and promptly preparing the necessary materials in the right quantities, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs. Let's take a closer look at how to properly insulate a ceiling in a private home.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside. Both options give quite good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses an option that is convenient for himself under specific living conditions, taking into account economic feasibility.

Options for attic insulation

With external insulation, the insulation is installed in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation in decorative finishing does not need, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, it is much more convenient to work with external insulation.

Internal insulation involves attaching heat-insulating materials to inner surface ceiling and installation suspended structures from plasterboard, plastic, wood, etc. It must be taken into account that when internal insulation 15-20 cm of room height is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at 2.5 m or lower, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.

Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to do renovations and plan to install a suspended ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.

Selection of material for thermal insulation

The following thermal insulation materials are popular for insulating private houses:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Expanded polystyrene;
3. Penoizol;
4. Polyurethane foam;
5. Penofol;
6. Mineral wool;
7. Basalt wool;
8. Ecowool;
9. Expanded clay;
10. Sawdust;
11. Vermiculite;
12. Dry grass, pine needles, reeds.

External insulation using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is perhaps one of the cheapest and available ways. This task is fairly easy to complete on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but in the event of a fire they melt, releasing acrid, toxic smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene foam, but is manufactured slightly differently. The main disadvantages are the release of toxic phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.

Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic. Does not burn, is vapor permeable, biologically stable, and has superior thermal insulation properties to polystyrene foam. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced directly on site and installed using a special, expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and economically feasible for large volumes.

Work is carried out similarly with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, polymer foam with different properties is obtained. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, eliminating the possibility of blowing through cracks. Disadvantage - toxic substances are released when burned.

The process of pouring penoizol

Penofol is foamed polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, and works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it has almost no effect on the height of the room.

Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets different sizes. It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and an affordable price. It needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses its thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, restores its shape after load, but cakes over time. The material, unlike glass wool, is almost not itchy, but still requires protective equipment at work. The main disadvantage is the phenol content, which can easily penetrate human skin.

Basalt wool is made from rock melts. Available in the form of mats and slabs. It is characterized by resistance to loads and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, and elasticity. The material is capable of transmitting water vapor and does not allow it to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand use for up to 70 years without loss of quality. As well as mineral wool, contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

When carrying out work indoors, mineral wool or basalt wool is usually used. This vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to “breathe”.

Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consisting of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and rotting. Laying work can be carried out wet using a special installation and dry manually. The manual method is extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the joists onto previously laid glassine and lightly loosen it. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. Thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture and prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves for more than 100 years.

It is possible to use cheap local materials such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, pine needles, reeds, clay and slag to insulate the attic floor. Their cost is often equal only to the cost of delivery, but their thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower and they are more difficult to install. Sawdust needs special treatment before laying protective treatment. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and become very flammable. Hay is a tempting place for various small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk insulation materials require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a heavy load on the floors.

Good results are achieved by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials are of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily release it, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.

Laying loose insulation involves filling it between the joists or beams of a specially made sheathing.

If the environmental friendliness of materials is important to you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, your choice is basalt wool.

Insulation with basalt wool: step by step

Let's take a closer look at how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective insulation materials - basalt wool.

Necessary materials:

1. Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
2. Vapor barrier film;
3. Waterproofing film;
4. Foil tape;
5. Wooden beam;
6. Hardware.

Tools:

1. Stapler;
2. Roulette;
3. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
4. Hammer;
5. Bench knife;
6. Screwdriver.

• Step 1. First of all, you need to do a thorough cleaning of the attic and create flat surface for laying basalt wool.
• Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The pitch between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.

In the presence of wooden beams ceiling insulation is placed in the space between them. If the height is insufficient, additional bars are attached on top.

If the attic will not be used, then this item can be skipped.

The height of the insulation depends on the climatic characteristics of the area and the roof structure. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.

• Step 3. Vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this point can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.

Fastening to floor beams or joists is carried out using construction stapler with folded edges. During new construction, the film is placed under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150 - 200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant tape and must be placed on the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option the use of foil material is considered. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and taped with special tape.

Beams and joists are not covered with a vapor barrier film to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid rotting.

• Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding cracks at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.

• Step 5. The second layer is laid with maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be amiss. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.

For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop here (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.

• Step 6. Laying waterproofing film to protect the cotton wool from moisture from entering from above during operation.
• Step 7. The structure for moving around the attic is mounted.

For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, finishing coat, for a non-residential attic it is enough to provide walking bridges during technical inspection and maintenance of the roof.

It is better to carry out work in the warm season - in summer or early autumn.

For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-proof materials to protect the ceiling from moisture; for internal insulation - vapor permeable.

The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to provide maximum “fluffiness” to materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, and sawdust.

External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to do.

When using internal ceiling insulation and using some models of built-in ceiling lamps frequent burnout of light bulbs is possible due to lack of heat dissipation. In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.

For vapor barrier, you can only use a special film with appropriate markings or glassine; you cannot use ordinary polyethylene.

Penofol is always placed with the foil down.

You can perform complex insulation by combining different insulation materials.

Carrying out insulation basalt wool It is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.

Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, estimate the costs and complexity of installation. Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, will guarantee a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private home.

THE RANGE OF PRODUCTS IN MODERN GARDENING STORES IS AMAZING: THERE ARE NUMEROUS TYPES OF COVERING AND MULCHING MATERIALS, A VARIETY OF FERTILIZERS, INSECTICIDES, FUNGICIDES... BUT ALL OF US CAN CALL SHOULD YOU BUY YOURSELF WHAT YOU WANT? I THINK NOT EVERYTHING. THIS IS WHY I DECIDED TO TELL ABOUT ORDINARY PINE NEEDLES, WHICH WILL BRING GREAT BENEFITS TO ANY HOLD GROUND AND WILL HELP YOU REFUSE BUYING THESE NECESSARY BUT EXPENSIVE GOODS

PINE NEEDLES AS MULCH

On a neighbor’s summer cottage, a huge pine tree grows close to our common fence. She reset every year a large number of pine needles, which I didn’t always have time to remove. And so, when one day I got around to this event, I discovered damp soil under a thick layer of pine litter, while the rest of my garden was suffocating from the scorching summer heat.

This observation gave me a brilliant idea - to use pine litter as mulch. It was not difficult to get a large amount of pine needles: our SNT borders on a vast pine forest. In half an hour, I filled the car to the top with bags of this free material, which was enough for me to mulch everyone vegetable beds, flower beds and tree trunks of garden plantings.

ON A NOTE

To protect your hands from sharp needles, when gardening work When dealing with pine needles, I do not use ordinary cotton gloves, but thicker ones, intended for pruning thorny bushes. And in the cellar, where my harvest is also stored, also arranged with pine needles, I specially leave strong gloves: I put them on every time I take out the next batch of vegetables for consumption.

Under a layer of mulch 3 - 5 cm thick, the soil remained wet much longer after watering, so I stopped worrying about my green pets, leaving them unattended until the next weekend. In addition, the mulch suppressed weeds and prevented the formation of crust on the soil surface, saving me from the need to loosen the rows and weed out unwanted vegetation.

I still use pine litter as mulch to this day - and I never cease to rejoice at this economical find, which saved me from the need to buy special mulching materials in the store.

Prickly beds and tree trunk circles

In the spring, after emergence or planting of seedlings, mulching vegetable beds with pine needles. A thick layer of mulch under trees, shrubs and garden strawberries I have to renew only occasionally: the needles on the soil surface rot very slowly. For the same reason, in the fall, after harvesting vegetables, I rake the needles from the surface of the beds and send them to the compost heap for “ripening.”

I dig up the beds with the addition mineral fertilizers and organic matter, and also add wood ash for digging at the rate of 1 half-liter jar per 1 m2, since pine litter, when used regularly, tends to acidify the soil. If there is no ash on hand, I use fluffed lime, chalk or dolomite flour according to the instructions. I do things differently with garden crops: I move the layer of needles to the side, add fertilizers and liquefied liquids to the tree trunk circle, burying them in the soil with a hoe, and then return the mulch to its place.

After harvesting, I tried adding pine mulch to the soil, but I didn’t like it: in the spring it is very difficult to work with the “prickly” soil. Therefore, now I use pine litter, which I collect in large quantities in the fall, to prepare humus.

Preparing pine humus

The needles rot for a very long time, from 3 to 5 years, so to speed up the process I use little tricks. To do this, I put needles, fresh mullein (for every 1 m 3 of needles I take about 100 kg of manure), tops of vegetables, weeds, kitchen waste, layering them with small portions of garden soil, and then generously spill the contents with a thief of any microbiological fertilizer according to the instructions in the compost bin. and cover the pile with thick film. I use similar solutions 2-3 more times in the next season, and also periodically ventilate and moisten the ripening humus from a hose. With this approach, the coniferous litter rots 2 times faster, and already after 1.5 years, by the next spring, I receive the most valuable fertilizer.

If there is no mullein available, then I fill the compost bin with needles and plant residues mixed with garden soil and I wet each layer generously strong solution urea (200 g per 10 liters of water). In the future, I also use solutions of microbiological preparations - and in the same time frame I obtain a loose, homogeneous mass, which, thanks to the rich chemical composition pine needles are saturated with a lot of useful macro- and microelements.

And the presence of a large amount of essential oils and phytoncides in pine needles completely frees such humus from pathogenic microflora and insect pests, which often choose “ordinary” humus for wintering or a place of permanent residence.

Coniferous humus has a slightly acidic reaction, so before applying it to the plants, I add a glass of wood ash to each bucket of such fertilizer. But if this seems tedious to someone, you can, even at the stage of adding humus, sprinkle the layers of ingredients with wood ash or a purchased deoxidizer according to the instructions.

Let the garden wake up early!

Slowly decomposing pine needles are an excellent material for construction warm beds . I prepare such beds in the fall so that next season I can harvest an ultra-early harvest of vegetables from them.

To do this, in the planned area I dig a trench two spade bayonets deep. I cover its bottom with a thick layer of pine needles sprinkled with wood ash, lay a layer of manure on top, and then fill the hole to the top with soft-stemmed plants - weeds without seeds and roots and vegetable tops, layering them with small portions of soil. Upper layer - fertile soil 15 - 20 cm thick. I use so much “filling” that at the end of the work such a bed rises 25 - 30 cm above the surface of the earth. I spill the contents generously with a solution of microbiological fertilizer and cover it with a thick black film.

By spring, the bed settles, and with the arrival of the first thaw, the processes of decomposition of organic matter are actively launched in it, due to which heat is released, and the soil in the bed warms up at the most early dates. This allows you to plant seedlings a month earlier than usual. To do this, I make cross-shaped cuts in the film and plant plants in them, after which I install arcs over the bed and cover them with spunbond to protect the plantings from spring frosts. The contents of such a bed last a long time and allow it to be used for several years.

Alternative to spruce branches

On this beneficial features I don’t run out of pine litter - I successfully use it for insulating plants for the winter. I remove the lashes of covering grapes, actinidia, clematis and other heat-loving vines from the trellis, tie them up and lay them on the ground. I bend the branches of “tender” shrubs (rhododendron, azaleas, roses, heat-loving varieties of berries, etc.) to the ground and secure them with metal pins. After this, I take out bags of pine needles pre-dried in the sun from the bins and fill them with them. ground part plants to the top. Then I cover the coniferous rollers with a thick film and secure its ends with stones or sprinkle it with a layer of earth.

In the same way, I insulate bulbous flowers and beds with vegetables planted before winter - I cover them with dry needles and cover them with film. I use the film to protect plants from damping off during winter thaws, the risk of which increases significantly under such a dense layer of wet mulch. And I insulate the root system of young seedlings of trees and shrubs in a different way: to do this, I place thick garbage bags filled with dry pine needles in their trunk circles.

Dry shelter based on pine needles perfectly protects plants from winter frosts. And if when using other materials, such as straw or sawdust, such shelters became a cozy wintering place for rodents, now such a problem does not arise: prickly needles do not allow voles to come close to such “houses.”

Needles as an insecticide

In early spring, various pests of fruit trees and berry bushes which immediately begin oviposition. In order to protect against them, I spend spraying plants with pine infusion. To prepare it, first I finely chop 1 - 1.5 kg of young pine twigs with a hatchet, place them in a bucket and fill the container to the top hot water. I keep the contents in a warm place under a lid for 3 - 4 days, stirring them periodically.

Then I filter the infusion and dilute it by half. clean water, I add a couple of spoons of liquid soap and spray the trees and shrubs with the solution from the sprayer. I repeat spraying several times: during the period of swelling of the buds on the plants, in the pink bud phase, and also immediately after flowering. This economical product replaces expensive insecticides and allows you to rid your garden of codling moths, flower beetles, weevils, honey beetles and leaf rollers.

Also noticed that pine infusion is an excellent remedy for various types of aphids, which likes to settle not only on garden crops, but also on garden crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes. To protect against aphids, I spray garden crops with the infusion described above, diluted 1:1 with water, and to treat vegetables I prepare a weaker solution - 1 part infusion and 2 parts water.

In one of the seasons, with the help of two sprayings carried out at an interval of 2 days, I completely rid my cabbage of white cabbage caterpillars - and took this remedy into service. However, in the new season, I decided that it was better to completely prevent these voracious pests from appearing on the plants, and immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, I began to spray the cabbage bed every 10-12 days with a pine decoction, which scared away the white butterflies and did not give them the opportunity to lay eggs on the plants . Now I carry out such procedures every season, and my cabbage is always clean.

To prepare the decoction, place 1.5 - 2 kg of chopped pine twigs in a large enamel pan, add 6 liters of water and put on fire. I boil the contents under the lid over low heat for 15 - 20 minutes, and after cooling, strain. I prepare a working solution for spraying from 2 liters of broth and 8 liters of clean water and add a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap so that the fragrant drug settles on the leaves.

Coniferous solution – effective remedy against cruciferous flea beetle. Therefore, to protect against this pest for preventive purposes, I regularly spray not only cabbage, but also radishes, radishes, daikon and other crops of the cabbage family.

But to protect against the Colorado potato beetle, which, as it turns out, also cannot tolerate the pine smell, I prepare a more concentrated solution - 4 liters of decoction per 6 liters of water.

By the way, to protect potatoes from wireworms, you do not need to prepare infusions or decoctions, but you can use pine litter from the forest.

To do this in the spring, when planting tubers, add a handful to each hole. pine needles, and the enemy will be defeated: the smell of rotting pine needles disorients the pest.

On my garden plot Fortunately, there are no slugs, but my friend, having suffered with these voracious pests, found salvation precisely in pine litter. Now she places rolls of pine needles around the perimeter of each bed, and the slugs are unable to reach the leaves and fruits of the vegetables. She does exactly the same thing in the case of trees and shrubs, the young leaves of which slugs like to feast on: she makes rounded edges from needles in their trunk circles.

Fungicidal properties of litter

Having started using an infusion of pine branches on cucumbers and tomatoes to protect against aphids, I noticed that these plants were much less damaged by fungal diseases. Now I use pine infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2 on these and others cultures more methodically, at intervals of 10 - 14 days. What is most pleasing is that after such preventive spraying, tomatoes are affected by late blight only in extremely unfavorable weather - during the period of cold, prolonged rains, when it is impossible to spray any folk remedies, nor fungicides.

And cucumbers and zucchini thanks to this budget funds became less susceptible to their main disease - powdery mildew.

Harvest with pine scent

The bactericidal and antiseptic properties of pine needles help me not only get bountiful harvest, but also store it for a longer period in the cellar. For this purpose, I use well-dried pine needles, which I sprinkle over the root vegetables when they are stored. At the bottom of the bin, in which I am going to put carrots, beets, radishes, daikon or other vegetables, I first pour needles in a layer of 2-3 cm, then I lay out the root vegetables in one layer, crush them with pine needles, put a new layer of vegetables - and so on until it’s full the whole bin. With this approach, root crops remain juicy and elastic much longer and are not damaged by rot.

WHEN BRANCHES ARE USEFUL

But what about pine spruce branches? On the eve of winter, I, of course, use it to protect the trunks of young trees from rodents. To do this, I tie pine branches to the trunk of each tree with their needles down, and they do not allow rodents to get to the tasty bark.

Thanks to their pronounced aroma, needles can be used to combat a wide variety of garden and vegetable pests. But in this case, I do not use dried pine litter, which has lost the bulk of its essential oils, but young pine branches, which I cut in the neighboring forest in early spring. At this time, the needles are maximally saturated with phytoncides and useful substances, therefore, infusions and decoctions from it not only cope well with pests, but also act as additional plant nutrition.

Preface

Coniferous plants in the garden are stylish, beautiful, and prestigious. However, you will have to pay for such beauty - no, not with money, but with time spent on care. Conifers especially need your attention in winter. In this article we will tell you why you need to cover conifers for the winter and how to do it.

How to cover conifers for the winter

Sheltering conifers for the winter is a very important plant protection process, so we recommend studying the video and other information provided in this article. Already in the fall, when the days are either sunny or rainy, you need to do it. During this period, the conifers are not yet strong enough, which means they can be seriously damaged by strong winds or the first frosts. It is the first wintering that is quite dangerous for these plants. There are several methods of shelter.

So, if your coniferous tree grows in a tub, then you should definitely bring it into the house or into a room where a constant temperature is maintained. However, the size of the plants can change your plans - if the trees simply no longer fit into the doors, you will have to think about sheltering the coniferous beauties right on the street.

As an effective and inexpensive covering material, you can use spruce branches, which are laid in the form of a hut, covering the plant from top to bottom.. By the way, this affordable heat-insulating material can be used to protect other plants from winter frosts.

What to do if you can’t get spruce branches? Then you can make a covering material in the form homemade pillows filled with sawdust, straw or various rags. If the frosts in your area are very severe, we recommend using everything in combination to protect plants - both spruce branches and bags. All your multi-layer protection should be well reinforced so that in a strong wind nothing will fly apart. To do this, fir branches are secured with staples or simply sprinkled with earth below, and the pillows are tied with twine.

If one-year-old seedlings were already planted in autumn open ground, then here it is necessary to take a slightly different approach to covering plants for the winter. First, the root system should be insulated. To do this, you can pour it on top of the soil in the area trunk circle a large layer of sawdust or peat. Also suitable for these purposes are the spruce branches we mentioned above, laid directly on the ground or just pine needles.

The branches should be tied with twine so that they are pressed against the trunk. Firstly, then it will be much easier to wrap the plant thermal insulation material, and secondly, it will protect the branches from wind and heavy snow.

For shelter, you can use a material known as spunbond or agrofibre. This is special non-woven material with a high degree of resistance to both low and high air temperatures. He is not afraid of precipitation - rain, wind, snow and even hail. An undoubted plus is that it allows air and steam to pass through, so that covered plants will not suffer from rotting.

Options for protecting conifers for the winter

Polyethylene can also be used to protect trees from frost. Only in this case is it recommended to create a frame from stakes or metal rods and attach the film over the frame. If you wrap polyethylene around plants, this is fraught with rotting of the needles, because the film does not allow air to pass through. When creating a frame, make sure that it holds well - it will have to withstand all gusts of wind and the weight of fallen snow. Watch the video, which covers in detail the shelter of conifers and options for protecting plants for the winter - you will get answers to many questions.

Although V last years A wide variety of modern insulation materials have appeared on sale; environmentally friendly waste from the woodworking industry has not lost its relevance as thermal insulation materials. It's about, of course, first of all about sawdust.

Sawdust is especially often used as insulation when building houses in regions rich in forested areas, since a large number of sawmills are usually located here. This means that it is possible to purchase material at a low price, and sometimes even find it for practically nothing.

Sawdust as insulation - “pros” and “cons”

Sawdust and materials made from it are used to insulate almost any element of the house - attic floors, walls, floors, cellars, etc. In addition, from wood waste produce blocks that are widely used for the construction of residential and ancillary buildings.

Sawdust is a waste that has a wide range of uses.

This material does not lose its popularity, thanks to positive characteristics, which include the following:

• One of the most important advantages can be safely called the absolute environmental purity of sawdust. They do not emit substances toxic to human health, so they can be used in any quantity.
• An important advantage is the already mentioned accessible to everyone low price material, and sometimes the opportunity to get them for free.

• Sawdust is wonderful, naturally, if the installation technology is followed correctly. If the thermal insulation layer matches required thickness, in accordance with the climatic conditions of the region, then such insulation will not be inferior in its effectiveness to other modern materials.

• Sawdust can be used for insulation, both in the usual bulk state and in other forms. For example, these could be slabs mixed with other natural or artificial materials.

The disadvantages of using this insulation in pure form can be attributed to high flammability. However, if you use sawdust in clay or cement mixtures, then their flammability is significantly reduced.

If we think from the standpoint that the rafters, attic floors and walls are made of wood pre-treated with fire retardants, then sawdust will fit perfectly into this building complex, provided that it is also subjected to special treatment. In addition, it will be necessary to provide high-quality insulation for all electrical cables, which will cross the insulation layer or be located in its thickness. Requires special attention and thermal insulation of the chimney pipe where it passes through attic floor or located near a wall.

It should be noted that sawdust is by no means the only natural material that has been used for home insulation for a long time. And if you look at the table below, they are in no way inferior to other natural ones." thermal insulators».

Natural insulation material	Weight of material kg/m3	Coefficient of thermal conductivity
Tow	180	0,037-0,041
cotton wool	80	0,036
Different felts	-	0,031-0,050
The fire is different	150-350	0,04-0,065
Moss	135	0.04
Sphagnum peat	150	0,05-0,07
Needles	430	0.08
Chopped straw stuffed	120	0.04
Straw mats	-	0,05-0,06
Fine wood shavings in packing	140-300	0,05-1,0
Dry leaves	-	0,05-0,06
Wood sawdust	190-250	0,05-0,08

Of course, not all sawdust is the same - much depends on the type and quality of the wood from which it was processed.

So, the almost unconditional “leader” in this matter is oak sawdust. They are less hygroscopic than sawdust obtained from trees of other species. Even if moisture gets on them, it will not cause them much harm, since oak contains natural antiseptic substances. Therefore, they are not susceptible to rot and do not swell when exposed to water.

However, oak sawdust is too widespread you can't call it material. It’s okay - waste from coniferous trees: spruce, larch or pine will also work well as insulation. Coniferous wood contains in abundance essential oils, steadfastly resisting the appearance of fungus or rot, that is, nature itself contains antifungal and antiseptic qualities in the material.

Preparing sawdust

Sawdust, clean, not prepared cannot be considered completely suitable for making blocks or for backfilling as insulation. After final drying, they become a very fire hazardous material. In addition, they can be chosen for making nests various insects or rodents.

Therefore, you must first work with clean material:

First of all, sawdust is treated with special compounds that also have fire retardant properties.

The fire retardant will make sawdust practically non-flammable...

First, the sawdust is mixed with an antiseptic deep penetration, and after drying - with a fire retardant. All processes can be carried out on a lined film a ventilated area under a roof, for example, under a canopy.

... and the antiseptic will prevent biological processes of decay, the appearance of fungus, nests of insects and rodents

• After treatment with a fire retardant, the sawdust is mixed with slaked lime, which will not allow rodents and insects to settle in the insulation.

Lime is added to sawdust in proportions of 1:5, that is, one part lime to five parts sawdust. The measurement can be carried out in bags - for example, pour out five bags of sawdust and one bag of dry lime, and then mix thoroughly. If the work will be done manually, then mixing can be done using a regular hoe and shovel.

• In addition, it is necessary to take into account that sawdust used for insulation in bulk form tends to sag over time, reducing the formed air gap and, naturally, losing its insulating qualities. Therefore, after a certain period, you will have to top them up or lay other insulation on top of them.

Taking into account this negative subsidence factor, in order to avoid the need for periodic updating or strengthening of the thermal insulation layer, a mixture is made consisting of sawdust, lime and gypsum in proportions 9: 1: 5. Then the mixture is moistened with water, mixed, and immediately laid on the prepared base .

Since gypsum hardens very quickly, the composition must be prepared in small portions in order to have time to place them in the place intended for them before they harden, otherwise the material will be damaged.

If you don’t want to rush, adjusting to the drying time of the gypsum, it can be replaced with cement mortar.

When using this insulation method, pre-drying of the sawdust is not required. They can be used immediately after delivery from the sawmill.

Prices for various types of antiseptics

Antiseptics

Methods for insulating a house with sawdust

As mentioned above, for insulation using sawdust, several options for different mixtures with the addition of gypsum and cement are used, but the old one still remains the most popular folk way- composition with clay.

Sawdust with clay

Clay and sawdust are two natural materials, which are absolutely safe for the health of the residents of the house. When mixed, they form a material with excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities, so they are well suited for insulating walls and. After hardening, the clay is not affected by hot steam, which cannot be said about most other modern insulation materials or waterproofing materials. Well, the sawdust in the mixture will create a good thermal insulation effect.

In addition, the clay-sawdust mixture tolerates quite well high temperatures And fireproof.

The advantages of this composition include the fact that such insulation is perfect for a house built in any region - both where the summer heat reaches critical thermometer levels, and where there are bitter frosts in winter.

A mixture of clay and sawdust not only retains heat during the cold period, but also prevents the rooms from heating up in the most extreme heat, so in the house, thermally insulated This mixture is warm in winter and cool in summer.

Unlike modern insulation materials, clay-sawdust material can last for centuries without decomposing or losing its original qualities.

Insulating a building using wood waste and clay is not so easy. To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary do work in accordance with certain requirements:

• The mixture must be prepared in compliance with certain proportions, otherwise the composition will have low adhesion, and if the walls are coated with it, then after drying, crumbling is possible.

• To achieve the maximum effect from insulation, the mixture on the walls must be applied correctly and have a certain thickness.

In modern conditions, this composition is rarely used for application to walls - most often sawdust with clay is used to create an insulating layer in the attic floor, where the material will not be subjected to serious load.

If you want to insulate the walls, then it is best to make insulating slabs from clay and small sawdust or from chopped reeds or straw.

Experienced builders working with this material recommend using reeds, since for some reason it is absolutely resistant.

Plant fibers mixed with clay will become a kind of “reinforcement” for the solution, which will increase bearing capacity insulation layer on the walls.

Preparing the mixture

There are several ways to make a clay-sawdust mixture for insulating a house. There are also several methods for laying it. Yes, from ready mixture mats can be made that are fixed to the walls and laid on the attic floor.

Another option is to spread the mixed wet mixture between the floor beams or apply it on the wall, on in advance fixed sheathing.

To produce an insulating mixture and its further use, it is necessary to prepare certain materials and tools. You will need:

• Sawdust, clay and water.
• Glassine and waterproof tape for fastening.
• A metal box with low sides (or trough) for mixing the mass.
• Large container for soaking clay.
• Bucket .
• Shovel and hoe.
• Smooth boards from which forms will be assembled for the manufacture of block panels.

In order for the mixture to be plastic and not crack upon drying, it is necessary to maintain the correct proportions of the starting materials.

A. In the event that the mass in its raw form will be laid on the ceiling or on the surface of the walls, take ⅔ of a bucket of sawdust per bucket clay diluted to creamy condition.

To obtain such a consistency of clay, it is laid out in large capacity, for example, in old bath or trough, and is filled with water in a 1:1 ratio. The clay is left to swell for a day or more, depending on the initial dryness of the material.

Then the mass is mixed well until smooth. If the mixture turns out to be very thick, you can add a small amount of water to it, mix well again and leave more for 5 ÷ 6 hours. To process etc It went faster, the mass needs to be stirred periodically.

If possible, it is best to soak all the clay needed for the work at once - it will not deteriorate in any way, no matter how long it is in the water. And the solution can be mixed as the previously prepared portion is consumed.

If the farm has one, then the work will go much faster. But it is most convenient to mix manually using a hoe and shovel.

To mix the clay-sawdust solution, you will need another large but shallow container made of thin metal, with sides 150 ÷ ​​200 mm high. Gets enough sleep there required amount sawdust for one portion of the batch, and, according to the proportions, the clay mixture is laid out. Then the composition is mixed well and laid out on the prepared attic floor or applied to the walls.

B. If you decide to insulate a house with mats made from a clay-sawdust mixture, then the materials are taken in 1:1 proportions. While the clay is swelling, during this period you need to make molds the right size, into which the finished mixture will be placed.

If the mats will be laid on the attic floor, then it is worth determining the distance between the beams and their height - the forms are made according to these parameters. They are essentially a box with no bottom.

It is best to make several molds to make several mats at once. To make the blocks even on all sides, it is recommended to do the following:

• Place one or more on a flat surface plywood sheets, which are covered with thick polyethylene film.
• Forms are installed on top.
• The prepared clay-sawdust mixture is laid out in them and, as far as possible, compacted.
• The composition is leveled from above using a rule - in this case, the sides of the form will serve as beacons.
• After the mixture has set and dried slightly, the mats can be removed, and further drying will take place without form, in a well-ventilated place under the roof. They cannot be taken out in the sun, since upon final drying the resulting blocks may crack.
• The emptied molds are filled again with the mixture - and this continues until the required number of mats is made.

The process of insulation with clay-sawdust composition

The technology of insulation with a clay-sawdust mixture is quite simple, both with the help of mats and by laying out the mixture in a wet state.

Insulation with clay-sawdust wet mass

1. When insulating an attic floor using clay-sawdust mass, you must first prepare the surface on which it will be laid out.

• Floor boards and beams are treated with antiseptic compounds. If there are wide gaps between the boards, then glassine can be laid between the floor beams. In the case when several sheets of glassine are laid, they must be overlapped and preferably secured with waterproof tape.

• Next, a clay-sawdust mixture is laid out on the floor and leveled using a rule.

• Then the leveled surface can be moistened with water and further leveled using a spatula.
• After the clay has completely hardened, it will become dense and you can safely walk on it.

2. can be carried out in two ways - throwing a wet mixture onto the walls or pouring it into formwork attached to a finished main or frame wall.

• On the main wall, the clay mortar is applied between the installed beacons using a trowel or thrown on by hand and leveled with a rule.

• Another option is to sketch the mixture on the wall on which the shingles are fixed. But in this case it will not be possible to lay a thick layer. A clay pile of no more than 30 mm can be supported on shingles.

• After the clay-sawdust layer has dried, it is leveled with sand-cement mortar and then with plaster.

3. The third option for insulating walls with a wet mass is to lay it in formwork installed along the main walls, or fixed on both sides to frame posts.

• Formwork panels are made from boards 1000 mm high. They are fixed on both sides of the frame posts or parallel to the main wall, at a distance of 200÷250 mm from it.
• The formwork is laid sawdust-clay mixtures with careful compaction. After this, the composition is given time to dry.
• After the mixture has dried, the formwork is removed and raised higher, where it is secured again in the same way.
• The filling process is repeated in the same order until the top of the wall is reached.

• Since there will be openings on top between the frame beam or wall and the ceiling that cannot be filled using this technology, you will have to make mats of the required size, install and fix them with clay mortar on top of the finished lower sections of the walls.

Insulation of walls and ceilings with clay-sawdust mats

Sawdust-clay mats are laid in the same way as mats of other insulating materials.

• The diagram looks like this:

1 – Attic floor beams.

2 – Ceiling.

3 – Subfloor of the attic floor.

4 – Glassine is placed on the bottom and top of the insulation.

5 – Sawdust-clay plate.

6 – Finished attic floor boards.

• The preparation of floor boards is carried out in the same way as when pouring clay mass.
• Next, the finished slabs are laid on the covered surface. If large gaps remain between the floor beams and the mats, they will have to be filled with a damp mass of clay and sawdust.
• To insulate main walls, a sheathing made of a block having the size of the mat thickness (if it is not more than 100 mm) is attached to them. The distance between the sheathing bars should be equal to the width of the mat. Installed slabs It will be most convenient to fix it with slats, nailing them onto the sheathing bars.
• In the event that insulation is carried out in a cold region, where average winter temperatures reach minus 25 ÷ 30 degrees, insulation boards must be at least 300 ÷ 400 mm thick. Such slabs, or rather blocks, are mounted on a clay-sand mortar, according to the principle of brickwork.

• If insulation is carried out frame walls, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of two rows of bars or boards with a thickness of at least 70 ÷ 80 mm. If two bars are installed that determine the thickness of the wall of the house, then sawdust-clay the blocks will be stacked between them. To ensure that the blocks fit tightly together in the places where the frame bars are installed, square cutouts are made in their corners, repeating the shapes and dimensions of the block.

• When main walls are insulated, it is recommended to make masonry from blocks at a distance of 70 ÷ 100 mm from the wall.
• After the insulation layer has been raised by 800 ÷ 1000 mm, it is recommended to make a backfill of expanded clay between it and the wall.
• Then the insulating wall rises another 700 ÷ 1000 mm, backfilling is done again - and so on until the very top of the wall.
• Upon completion of insulation, the walls must be cement or clay mortar.

Sawdust with cement

If instead of clay, cement is chosen as a “partner” for sawdust, then the process of making, applying or laying the mixture is not much different from working with sawdust-clay solution, but the components and proportions are slightly changed.

So, in this case, in addition to cement and sawdust, lime is required. The components are taken in a ratio of 1:10:1. Additionally, copper sulfate or copper sulfate can be added to the mixture as an antiseptic. boric acid. These components will require approximately 50 g per 50 kg of mixture. Each portion of the mass will require from 5 to 10 liters of water, depending on the method of insulation.

If all ingredients are available, mix the mixture:

• All ingredients are poured into a container prepared for mixing and mixed dry with a hoe until smooth.
• Antiseptics are added to last resort, and after that the mixture is immediately filled with water and mixed. It will be better if the antiseptic components are diluted in water poured into the mixture - then they will be absorbed into the sawdust faster.
• The mixed mixture must be checked for readiness. This is done like this: the mixture is taken into the palm of your hand and squeezed. If water does not ooze from the lump and it does not crumble, then the composition is ready for the manufacture of slabs, for laying in formwork or for spreading over the surface of the attic floor.

On the attic floor, just as in the case of clay, glassine is placed under the mixture being laid out, but in this case it can be replaced with plastic film.

After laying the wet insulation is completed, it is left to harden.

Insulation with bulk material

Insulation with dry sawdust is quite simple. Treated and dried sawdust is simply poured onto the attic floor. The thickness of their layer varies depending on the winter and summer temperatures of the region. More precisely, this parameter can be found in the table located at the beginning of the article.

Sawdust for insulation is used dry or in the form of sawdust granules - pellets.

They are made from fine sawdust with the addition of an antiseptic, fire retardant and carboxymethylcellulose glue. The finished granules are practically non-flammable and do not harbor rodents. It should be noted that they are more convenient and practical for insulating floors than just sawdust, since they do not shrink and retain heat well.

• The granules are poured onto the prepared surface - cracks The boards are coated with a clay-lime composition, or the subfloor of the ceiling is covered with glassine.
• The granules are distributed in an even layer between the floor beams. If a layer of greater thickness is required, then sides are installed along the perimeter of the attic, with a height equal to the required thickness of the backfill layer - then the granules are laid to their top.
• If you plan to make a floor in the attic from a plank covering laid on top of insulation, then additional sheathing is attached to the floor beams, that is, they are raised in height.

Video: insulating the attic with dry sawdust

Dry sawdust or granules are also used to insulate the walls, filling them inside. If ordinary sawdust is used, then it must be well treated with antiseptics. In addition, in order to make them heavier but maintain their low thermal conductivity, sawdust is sometimes mixed with slag. Walls built and insulated in this way reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold and summer heat.

• The insulation is backfilled as the main walls are raised by 700 ÷ 1000 mm, with obligatory, but not excessively strong, tamping for compaction.

• After backfilling and compaction, the walls are again raised to a certain height, and so the process continues until the entire required height has been reached.

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Conclusion:

With proper pre-treatment, both the sawdust itself and the compositions made using them are excellent thermal insulator, which is quite capable of replacing any of modern materials. Using them, you can be 100% sure that none of your household will develop allergies or other diseases associated with the release of toxic substances, which is sometimes the problem with some synthetic insulation materials.