Vegetable compatibility. Compatibility of vegetable crops in one bed Home comfort Gardening Av. Litvinenko Elena August 1, 2015

Many gardeners take great responsibility when growing vegetables, herbs and fruits.
They follow all agricultural practices, use all modern preparations and fertilizers for best result, constantly fight weeds and pests. But sometimes, despite the maximum amount of effort, the harvest is not satisfactory. Why does this happen?

There is also such a thing as vegetable compatibility. This is a very important factor that must be taken into account. The importance of vegetable compatibility When planting plants in the garden, it is very important to take into account the proximity of plants and know their predecessors. Many cultures are incompatible and can oppress each other.
The size of the plants and their mode of growth also play a big role. Taking into account all these factors, you can use the garden area more rationally, which is especially important when it is small. Planting plan Focusing on the compatibility of vegetables, you need to draw up a planting plan in advance. It is better to start compiling it in winter period, before the start of field work.

Different parts of the land may differ in fertility. This must also be taken into account when distributing crops.
There are strong consumers among plants useful substances and weak. They must be swapped periodically. All vegetables have different ripening times.
This can be used to rationally use the land so that it does not stand idle.

But the most important factor is the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. It greatly influences the future harvest. Therefore, using the information from this article, plan future plantings taking into account all factors. Nutrient requirements of vegetables The nutrient requirements of plants greatly influence the compatibility of vegetables. This indicator is different for all cultures.

All plants can be divided into three conditional categories.
Heavy consumers are vegetables that require large amounts of nitrogen. These include almost all types of cabbage, chard, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, peppers, pumpkin and cucumbers.
Average consumers are carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, potatoes, beets, eggplants, field lettuce, endive, spinach and head lettuce.
And finally, peas, radishes, herbs, beans and spices are weak consumers of nutrients. When arranging vegetables in the garden bed, you need to take this factor into account and place them depending on the saturation of the site and its predecessor. This will help increase productivity.

Carrot
Carrots are found very often in our areas. Almost every gardener grows this crop. When planting it, you also need to take into account the compatibility of vegetables. Thus, carrots grow well next to peas, radishes, spinach and lettuce. This vegetable gets along very well next to some types of onions (leeks, onions and perennials). These two vegetables protect each other from pests. It is not advisable to plant carrots next to parsley, dill and celery. Very often dill is sown on its own; it is worth planting it once on the site. But this is an undesirable neighborhood for carrots. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the garden and use it for its intended purpose.

Eggplant
The vegetable compatibility table (see below) is very important for every gardener, especially beginners. Subsequently, with experience will come knowledge about the characteristics of each culture. Eggplant is another common vegetable. It grows well next to crops such as beans, peppers, and peas. You should not plant eggplants next to cucumbers. This is not a very good neighborhood. There are conflicting opinions about contact during growth with other nightshade crops. Some fairly experienced gardeners believe that such a neighborhood is appropriate and gives excellent results. The opinion of others is exactly the opposite. They believe that planting eggplants near other nightshades results in poor harvests.

Beans
If we consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then the best neighbors for many crops are beans. They repel Colorado potato beetles. Also, beans, thanks to nodule bacteria, accumulate on their roots sufficient quantity nitrogen and enrich the soil. Potatoes, corn, cucumbers, spinach, radishes and radishes get along well next to them. However, beans should be planted around the perimeter of the potato plot. In turn, basil should be placed next to the beans, which will protect them from weevil.

Cabbage
Cabbage is a very good neighbor for many crops, so finding a place for it on the plot is quite easy. Next to it you can plant carrots, beets, beans, celery, cucumbers, beans, strawberries, leeks and tomatoes. It is not advisable to place white and red cabbage next to each other. Parsley and dill take root very well next to this vegetable.
Kohlrabi is special kind cabbage It is planted next to asparagus, peas, radishes, potatoes and beans. It is not advisable to place kohlrabi with horseradish, garlic and tomatoes in the same bed.

Cucumbers and zucchini
Zucchini and cucumbers are considered related plants. However, there are some differences. The compatibility of cucumbers with other vegetables is slightly different from the compatibility of zucchini. Cucumbers get along well with peas, beans, beets, onions, cabbage, kohlrabi, fennel, basil and dill. It is not recommended to plant this vegetable with eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, radishes, watercress and radishes. For zucchini, lettuce, spinach, beans, onions and peas will be excellent allies in the garden. They should not be placed next to tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, parsley, pumpkin and radishes. The compatibility of growing vegetables is very important for a good harvest. As you can see, related crops, zucchini and cucumbers, do not get along well with each other.

Onion
The best neighbor for onions is carrots. These two vegetables protect each other from pests. That's why experienced gardeners traditionally they are planted side by side. The compatibility of onions with other vegetables interests many gardeners. Good allies for onions are melons, lettuce, cucumbers and beets. It is not advisable to place beans, asparagus, legumes and watercress next to this vegetable. Only leeks are friends with beans. The compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse is the same as in the garden.

Greenery
Dill can coexist well with many crops. It usually self-sows and is found throughout the site. However, it is better to remove it from the carrot bed, as this is not the best union.
Basil – best neighbor for tomatoes. It also gets along well with beans, cucumbers, some types of lettuce, fennel, onions, zucchini and corn. But it doesn’t go well with dill and marjoram. In turn, marjoram can be placed next to onions, carrots, spinach and turnips. In addition to basil, fennel is also a bad neighbor for it.


Peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes and beets
Any type of pepper can be planted next to tomatoes, thyme, basil, eggplant and kohlrabi. Compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which will become best help This is very important for any gardener. For peppers, beets, beans and fennel will be a bad ally in the garden. Beets can be planted with dill, lettuce, zucchini and onions. Among the many types of onions, the only opposite for this vegetable are perennial varieties. Radishes and radishes can be placed next to green onions, watercress, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, spinach and lettuce. They do not get along well with horseradish, cucumbers, basil and zucchini. Delicious turnips can be planted next to marjoram, watercress, celery, radishes and spinach. It does not get along well with tomatoes and cabbage.

Tomatoes
Tomato is one of the main vegetables in the garden. Basil is considered its best companion. It also gets along well with beans, dill, carrots, onions, radishes, celery and lettuce. The worst place to plant this crop is in an area where potatoes, peas, grapes, zucchini, cucumbers and fennel grow. If these requirements are met, the yield can be much higher.

Pumpkin
One cannot help but say something about this culture. It is often grown in garden plots and mistakenly placed next to zucchini. As a result, a crop grows that is characterized by low taste qualities. These two vegetables simply cross-pollinate. It is better to plant pumpkin next to beans, peas or legumes. But the best option is a separate area that is unsuitable for planting other plants (for example, a compost heap). Pumpkin growth is adversely affected by proximity to potatoes, peppers and eggplants. It is also undesirable to plant cucumbers and tomatoes nearby.

Conclusion
Grow plants on personal plot not that difficult. But what the harvest will be like depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, a table of which any gardener should always have at hand, will help achieve excellent results. Together with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures, the correct arrangement of plants will allow you to obtain higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!

What to plant and with whom

For every gardener and gardener, the question remains of which plants should be planted nearby. The author of the book “The Melange Garden,” Russian agronomist B.V. Bublik, and American farmer D. Jevans, in the book “How to Grow More Vegetables...”, described in detail the interaction of various cultivated plants that are most often grown in central Russia. Of course, to get a good harvest, it is necessary not only to choose the right plants for adjacent beds, but also to provide them with good care. Then all crops will bear fruit successfully and the harvest will be guaranteed.

➣ Ash, wormwood and wheatgrass are characterized by high production of allelopathic substances. Where these plants appear, all others, especially cultivated ones, immediately stop growing. You should not leave the listed weeds between the beds or along the perimeter of the garden.

Scientific experiments with labeled atoms have proven that substances secreted by mustard roots enhance the growth of crops such as peas. Legumes, in turn, are released into the soil a large number of nitrogenous substances, which is not acceptable for all plants. However, bush beans grow well next to legumes.

Peas are also a good neighbor for many vegetable crops (tomatoes, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, turnips, beans) and herbs (mustard). Peas are planted between the rows of these crops. Next to this representative of the Legume family, you can successfully grow lettuce, eggplant, spinach, and celery. If you plant cabbage or other cruciferous vegetables next to peas, its roots will be protected from rotting. You can find out which family the most common crops grown in central Russia belong to from the table.

Beans grow well next to cucumbers. They can be planted around cucumber beds. This crop also combines favorably with potatoes, sweet corn, mustard, radishes, radishes, and spinach. It is recommended to plant beans between these plants. Oregano, borage, yarrow and rosemary are good neighbors for beans.

Table. Distribution of popular garden and flower plant species by family

Family
	Peas, beans, beans, soybeans, clover
Borage	Borage (borage)
Buckwheat	Buckwheat, rhubarb, sorrel
Lamiaceae	Basil, lemon balm, mint, snakehead, hyssop, marjoram, oregano, sage, savory, thyme
Cereals	Corn, oats, wheat, rye, barley
Cruciferous	Rutabaga, cabbage (red and white cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Beijing sprouts, broccoli, etc.), radish, radish, turnip, horseradish, spinach, mustard
Liliaceae	Garlic, onions (onions, leeks, shallots, chives, etc.)
	Beetroot, chard

End of table.

Representatives of plants of the Liliaceae family (various types of onions and garlic) grow very well next to plants of the Apiaceae family (carrots, radishes, celery, parsley and parsnips) and Cruciferous (cabbage).

It is also favorable for them to be near tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries, potatoes, and cucumbers. Among the flowers, you can plant petunias and daisies nearby. It is useful to plant savory and chamomile in small quantities around the onion beds.

Various vegetable crops successfully coexist in the beds with white and black radishes.

For many plants, spinach is located nearby. Its roots release saponins into the soil, which enhance the growth of many crops (potatoes, tomatoes, beets, beans). Spinach also creates a special microclimate around itself. Its leaves cover the soil and keep it moist and loose. In this regard, spinach is often used as an accompanying plant. It is planted between rows of plants with slower growth, and while the main crops are just sprouting, spinach has time to grow and creates favorable conditions for them.

A root crop such as radish grows well next to bush beans. This proximity has a positive effect on its taste and size, and also protects it from damage by worms and cabbage flies. It is recommended to plant radishes 2 weeks before planting bush beans.

Watercress and nasturtium will also help you grow large radishes.

For beans, it will be useful if you plant a little celery nearby. Beans grow well together with cucumbers, corn, cabbage, strawberries, pumpkin, beets, and carrots. The taste of beans is positively influenced by savory growing nearby.

Good neighbors for vegetable plants are sometimes spices and flowers. For example, amaranths have a positive effect on eggplants. You can plant lettuce between the eggplants and basil around them.

For watermelons, nearby areas with potatoes, oats, corn and peas will be useful. For melon, the only good neighbor is radish.

Cabbage has many types. The most popular of them are cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and kohlrabi. They grow better next to onions (any), beans, and herbs (mint, chamomile, sage, dill). Potatoes have a positive effect on the taste of cabbage, so these plants are suitable for mixed planting.

Dill sown between rows of cabbage significantly improves its taste.

For the most common type of cabbage, white cabbage, the best neighboring plants are onions, potatoes, lettuce, celery, radishes, bush beans and dill.

Broccoli grows well next to onions, lettuce, beets and celery.

Good neighbors for potatoes in the garden are eggplants, beans, cabbage (especially cauliflower), corn, carrots, beets, lettuce, radishes, beans, horseradish, garlic, and herbs and flowers - amaranths, nasturtium, tansy, coriander, spinach. With mixed planting, potatoes turn out to be more resistant to diseases.

Corn creates shade next to itself, in which cucumbers, watermelons, and pumpkins grow well. Bush and climbing beans, potatoes, and soybeans are favorable neighbors for corn itself.

Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is very necessary for corn, which, in turn, brings climbing plants useful as a support. You can also plant tomatoes, lettuce, and sunflowers next to corn.

Pepper goes well with basil. These plants help each other grow.

The place next to cucumbers is suitable for peas, white and cauliflower, kohlrabi, radishes, onions, lettuce, celery, beets, parsley, sunflowers and beans. Tansy and sow thistle also have a positive effect on cucumbers. Dill sown among cucumbers prolongs their fruiting period, and therefore increases the yield.

For parsnips, a place next to legumes and radishes will be useful.

Next to the celery bed you can plant tomatoes, cabbage, leeks, and bush beans. In the shade of these plants, celery grows more fragrant.

Crops such as legumes, carrots, cucumbers and radishes are planted with salad.

Tomatoes go well in garden beds next to onions, garlic, carrots, parsley and many flowering plants. If there are nettles next to the tomatoes, they will have a more pronounced taste. Monarda tubulara also contributes to the growth of this favorite vegetable crop and the improvement of its taste characteristics.

To get a good beet harvest, it is useful to plant carrots, cabbage (except cauliflower), radishes, lettuce, parsley and dill nearby.

For pumpkin, you can choose neighbors such as corn and nasturtiums. A sow thistle growing nearby can be helpful.

The place next to the radish is suitable for carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, beets, tomatoes, pumpkins, and spinach.

Spicy herbs are released into external environment a large number of aromatic substances with volatile properties. Thus, they affect those plants that are planted nearby. Spicy herbs are widely used in cooking and medicine and are often found in gardens among vegetables and berry plants. It is also necessary to select them correctly for joint plantings.

Most vegetables are favorably affected by parsley, borage, lavender, marjoram, hyssop, chervil, chamomile, savory, thyme, sage, and dill growing nearby. Dandelion helps vegetables and apple trees grow. This plant produces environment a substance (ethylene) that accelerates the ripening of fruits.

Many herbs release substances into the environment that have a beneficial effect on other plants (repel pests, disinfect the air, enhance growth). Such plants are called satellite plants. These include anise, basil, mustard leaves, coriander, hyssop, mint, marjoram, lemon balm, cumin, dill.

Some herbs can enhance each other's aromatic properties. For example, if you plant yarrow next to nettles, it will be more fragrant, and if you plant mint, the content of essential oils in it will double.

➣ If you plant an oak, birch, linden or poplar next to the garden, then the fruit trees will be in comfortable conditions and they will get sick less and bear fruit well. These trees can be placed in the garden plot or along the edges of the garden.

Oregano and marjoram have a positive effect on the growth and taste of many cultivated plants.

The snakehead (Turkish mint) creates shade in which cucumbers feel good, which is reflected in their productivity.

Coriander is a good neighbor for anise, cumin and many vegetables. It has a positive effect on the soil structure, and therefore vegetables can be planted next to overwintered coriander without digging up the garden bed.

It is useful to plant hyssop next to grapes; this significantly increases the yield of the latter.

Lovage can be planted anywhere in the garden. It is a useful neighbor for many vegetables and improves their taste and increases resistance to disease.

Mint is found in many gardens. This plant is useful to plant next to tomatoes and cabbage. The harvest will be more abundant and the taste of vegetables will improve. Mint grows well among sorrel. The main thing is to make sure that the mint does not grow too much.

Strawberries grow better next to borage. It is important not to let it grow and trim the bushes in a timely manner. Borage also increases the resistance of other plants to various diseases. It enhances the growth of peas, cabbage, onions, beans, and many herbs.

Parsley has a positive effect on the taste of tomatoes. You can plant it around rose bushes. A good combination is parsley and onions. First, in the spring, parsley seeds are sown in rows, and after 2 weeks, leek seedlings are planted between them. Both crops will grow well.

The following crops grow well next to celery: onions, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, spinach.

A plant such as rue goes well on the site with vegetable and flower crops, as well as fruit trees and shrubs.

Dill grows by self-sowing in many gardens. This does not always have a positive effect on the harvest. The roots of this plant secrete substances that are not beneficial to all vegetables. Therefore, it is better to plant dill specifically next to lettuce, cabbage, onions, and cucumbers.

Sage is a useful neighbor for all types of cabbage and carrots, as well as strawberries.

Thyme has a beneficial effect on nearby vegetables and improves their taste. It is especially suitable for tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. Savory improves the growth of eggplants.

Some weeds can be useful neighbors for cultivated plants. Japanese farmer-scientist Masanobu Fukuoka, the founder of one of the trends in organic farming, came to the conclusion that there is no need to carry out continuous weeding in fields and gardens or use herbicides. He believes that weeds contribute their share to maintaining soil fertility and balance in biogeocenoses. M. Fukuoka recommends not completely destroying weeds, but periodically mowing them or limiting their growth using mulching. He also advises creating a grass cover in soil gardens from useful weeds or green manure. This has become common in Japan and it is extremely rare to find bare soil in gardens there. If there is insufficient soil moisture in arid areas, the trunk circles around the trees are left free for watering and care, and the rest of the garden area is planted with ground cover green manure. This principle can also be applied in small private gardens. In large vacant areas among ground cover plants You can place beds with cultivated plants (vegetables, herbs). For example, small islands of thistle in the garden promote the growth of onions, corn and tomatoes. The main thing is not to allow this weed to grow.

Various herbs are used for planting between rows in vineyards. Plants useful for grapes additionally protect the soil from being washed away by water during watering and from drying out. Corn brings the greatest benefit to grape growth. Good neighbors for it are also auxiliary vegetable crops - oilseed radish and radish. Parsley has a healing effect on vineyards. Peas, onions, cauliflower, watercress, and beets promote the growth of grapes. Less significant for increasing grape yields are beans, strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, melon, and dill.

Of the trees and shrubs compatible for grapes are pear, Chinese lemongrass and actinidia. These plants can be planted next to each other. You can also plant grapes and actinidia around a fence or gazebo.

Flower plants, such as asters, geraniums, forget-me-nots, and phlox, can also increase grape yields. Irises planted nearby do not bring any benefit, but do not harm this plant either.

From plants you can create around the garden or vegetable garden hedge. At the same time, shrubs for it need to be selected taking into account not only decorativeness or height, but also compatibility with the plants being grown. Hedges made of privet, elderberry, spirea, and rose hips are beautiful and useful for harvest. These shrubs have a healing effect on the garden. In the garden, growing cherries and raspberries next to each other significantly increases the yield. Apple tree and raspberry heal each other. Raspberries accumulate nitrogen and increase the oxygen content in the soil, which turns out to be beneficial for the apple tree. It is recommended to plant these crops close to each other, but make sure that the raspberries do not grow too much.

The combination of barberry with plum or honeysuckle in the garden has a positive effect on the harvest.

Strawberries and some plants grow well under sea buckthorn. medicinal plants(oregano, chamomile). It is useful to plant onions between currant bushes and leave them in the winter.

Hawthorn grows well at a distance of 4 m from cherries. If these trees are planted closer, the hawthorn will end up in the shade and wither away.

Apple and pear trees are good neighbors. A distance of at least 3.5-4 m is maintained between them, otherwise when the trees grow, they will be cramped and the effect will be the opposite.

The dogwood grows safely and bears fruit next to the apricot. You can even plant these plants close to each other and they will still be compatible. Dogwood can grow even with walnut, which is a solitary plant. Next to it, all other cultivated plants grow poorly.

It is permissible to plant plums and cherries at a distance of 5 m from each other. They will bear fruit well. The plum should not be allowed to get between the cherries and the cherries. In such conditions the tree will die.

For strawberries, parsley, bush beans, and spinach located nearby will be useful. You can also plant onions, cabbage, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets and garlic next to it.

If the land plot is zoned for a garden and vegetable garden, then herbs (anise, basil, lemon balm, coriander, parsley, thyme and tarragon) are planted between fruit trees and vegetable crops.

In order to navigate the choice of cultivated plants for cultivation, as well as the timing of their planting and location on the site, it is recommended to draw a diagram of the garden in advance. This will help to correctly arrange beds with different plants, outline mixed plantings, and check the compatibility of all plants growing next to each other. Next year, this scheme must be changed according to the rules of crop rotation. To do this, it is necessary to additionally take into account the compatibility of plants with their predecessors.

When selecting plants for adjacent beds, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that some plants are protectors against any diseases or pests (animals, insects, worms).

Plant compatibility can be used to increase overall yield in other ways. Plants for compacted plantings are also selected taking into account the height and volume they occupy. By choosing the right plants, you can make compacted beds.

Plants planted next to each other will not interfere with each other, but, on the contrary, will mutually enhance growth. Caring for them is almost the same, so they grow comfortably in the same bed.

Condensed plantings can be done simultaneously, i.e. sow the bed with selected crops at once, or in stages. You can harvest some crops and plant others in the vacant space. This approach allows not only to grow healthy and well-bearing plants, but also to save land area.

In compacted beds, the main plant and the compacting plant are distinguished. Usually the latter has a shorter time to reach technical ripeness.

Eggplants, carrots, corn, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, beets, and celery are often used as the main crops. Compacting crops are onions, cauliflower and Chinese cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beans, pumpkin, garlic, and dill. Typically, compact and low-growing plants are used as compaction crops. It is important to correctly place the main and compacting crops on the same bed. For example, the central part of the garden bed can be occupied by beets, and radishes, lettuce, and dill can be planted in rows along the edges.

Compaction crops quickly produce a harvest and are removed from the bed, while the main crop continues to grow until the end of summer or autumn.

➣ Berry bushes can be included in hedges. In this case, the protective barrier turns out to be denser and even prickly. From berry bushes Gooseberries, raspberries, and black currants are suitable for this. Next to each other they bear fruit well.

Plants such as tomato and cabbage take up a lot of space in the beds and are combined with small vegetables - onions, carrots, radishes. Fast-growing crops (bok choy, lettuce, spinach) are convenient to plant as cover crops or after harvesting main crops. For long-growing crops (carrots, parsley), it is recommended to plant plants that quickly reach technical ripeness.

Combinations of tomato and pepper with basil are optimal for compacted beds; cabbage and tomatoes with mint; parsley with tomatoes, peas or strawberries; onions, cucumbers, lettuce or cabbage with dill.

Draw up a plan for your garden better in winter in order to promptly grow seedlings of the necessary vegetable and green crops, prepare beds on the site and successfully plant them in the intended places (Fig. 1,2).

Figure 1. Compacted bed with onions, spinach and carrots

In order for plants in the same bed not to interfere with each other’s growth, it is necessary to take into account not only their allelopathic properties. It is not recommended to plant crops belonging to the same species next to each other, as they will consume the same substances from the soil. nutrients. It should be taken into account that tall plants create shade for shorter plants, which is not always useful for the latter. When combined plantings, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the plant root system. If their roots lie at the same level in the soil, then the impact of colins will be more significant, and competition for nutrients and moisture will increase.

Figure 2. Compacted bed with beets and lettuce

When planting vegetables, we must not forget that among them there are both friends and enemies. For example, potatoes will never get along with tomatoes, but they will go well with radishes. What to plant with what? To have a clear plan, you need to familiarize yourself with the plant compatibility table in the garden in advance.

Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden makes it possible to fight pests, increase crop yields and replace some plants with others. Will they get along? bell pepper and quinoa in the same bed? To answer this question, the farmer will need a table of plant compatibility in the garden.

For example, in organic farming the use of pesticides and unnatural fertilizers is not allowed; high yields are achieved through a competent combination of vegetables in the garden. If you plant corn next to a pumpkin, it will use its leaves to protect it from overheating in the sun. Also, beans can grow in this bed, which will enrich the soil with nitrogen compounds and fertilize it. It is for choosing the best neighbors that you need a table of plant compatibility in the garden.

Mixed plantings will allow you to use the land wisely, saving space in the beds. This is especially important for small gardens where you need to grow a significant number of plants. This way you can get a high yield even on 2-3 acres. If you correctly place and alternate garden crops in accordance with the plant compatibility table in the garden, then the soil will not be healthy and fertile.

What plants can be combined with hot pepper in the garden beds?

What can you plant hot peppers next to? Since it grows very slowly in the first months, a variety of greenery will be its best neighbor. This union will help to effectively use the entire area of ​​the greenhouse and obtain a high yield. Spinach, dill, and perennial onion varieties are most suitable for the neighborhood.

Growing this vegetable is not yet very common, so many gardeners are concerned about how hot peppers combine with other crops. It is great for proximity to tomatoes, as they have similar care conditions. The hot vegetable also gets along well with zucchini and eggplant. What can you plant hot peppers next to? Different varieties of onions, carrots, and kohlrabi cabbage will be good neighbors in the garden.

What is it not advisable to plant hot peppers next to? First of all, with its sweet variety from Bulgaria, since cross-pollination by bees is possible. Also, beets are not suitable neighbors for hot peppers.

What plants can cabbage be combined with in garden beds?

Cabbage has several varieties, but they are all compatible with the same plants. The most commonly grown vegetables in Russia are cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts. Varieties are divided into late, mid-season and early.

What to plant next to cabbage? Any greenery will be the best neighbor. Also late varieties often used to compact plantings in potato fields. If celery is adjacent to cabbage, then flea beetles will not appear in the beds. Dill will get rid of aphids and caterpillars, and borage will get rid of snails. Rosemary and mint will repel cabbage butterflies. Onions will also be a good neighbor, as they will rid the vegetable of caterpillars. Experienced gardeners recommend planting garlic, beans and peas nearby.

Is it possible to plant cabbage next to tomatoes? Farmers do not recommend doing this; such a neighborhood will be unsuccessful. It is also undesirable to plant crops such as carrots and beans nearby. Strawberries, as well as wild strawberries, will be a bad neighbor.

What plants can be combined with tomatoes in garden beds?

Tomatoes are individualistic plants, but many gardeners successfully combine them with other crops. What vegetables should be planted nearby to benefit tomatoes and increase yield? Basil gets along well with tomatoes and improves the taste of the fruit. You can plant garlic nearby; tomatoes will protect it from pests, which will have a beneficial effect on the harvest.

Excellent neighbors for tomatoes include: beans, all leafy greens, radishes, radishes, corn, onions, carrots and beets. Also, do not remove nettles that have grown near tomatoes; they have a beneficial effect on the taste of the fruit and the duration of their storage after harvest.

Is it possible to plant tomatoes next to cabbage? Gardeners believe that it is better to avoid such a neighborhood. Is it possible to plant tomatoes next to peppers? They have similar care requirements and their joint growth in the same greenhouse will be favorable.

But you shouldn’t place tomato plantings next to potatoes, since they have common pests and the same diseases. It is also undesirable to place dill and fennel nearby.

What plants can be combined with cucumbers in garden beds?

Cucumbers are grown in almost every garden. Some people plant them in greenhouses, while others plant them in open ground. Unpretentious vegetables are tasty both fresh and in salads for the winter. In addition, choosing garden neighbors for them is very simple, because cucumbers are friendly with many garden crops.

It's a good idea to plant corn nearby, which will repel ants and act as a defense against bacterial wilt. Radishes will also be an excellent neighbor, as they will rid the vegetable of cucumber beetles. Radish also protects against pests and has a beneficial effect on the taste of the fruit.

Is it possible to plant cucumbers next to zucchini? Yes, such proximity is allowed. You can also plant next to the cucumbers: beans, beans, beets, celery, onions, garlic, spinach and dill. Some weeds, such as quinoa or tansy, also have a beneficial effect on this crop. The acorn grass that grew next to the cucumbers is also not removed, as it protects them from pests of the root system.

It is undesirable to grow nearby: tomatoes, potatoes and herbs.

What plants can pumpkin be combined with in garden beds?

Pumpkin prefers to be the only plant in the garden. For good growth it needs fertile land, warm weather and quality fertilizers. She feels very good on compost heaps.

She can choose radishes as her neighbors, which will fight pests. For the same purposes, nasturtium is planted nearby. The proximity to corn, beans and beans will also be favorable. The following weeds will contribute to a good harvest: sow thistle and pigweed.

Do you plant pumpkins next to zucchini? Experienced gardeners do not recommend doing this, as cross-pollination may occur. The result will be fruit mutations, and the taste of vegetables will suffer. Also, do not plant pumpkin next to potatoes, which will have a negative impact on its growth. For the same reasons, peppers and eggplants are undesirable in neighbors. Cucumbers and tomatoes have a bad effect on pumpkin growth and are also not planted nearby.

What plants can be combined with carrots in the garden beds?

Carrots are plants that do not require painstaking care. You can plant it almost anywhere, it will still produce a harvest. This explains the love of gardeners for it. But the harvest will be rich only if you strictly follow the rules for combining neighboring plants in the garden.

A good crop to complement carrot plantings would be onions. They drive away pests that are dangerous to each other. The only drawback of this plant symbiosis is that these crops have different water consumption needs. Due to excess moisture, onions grown from sets may begin to rot. If you limit watering, the carrot harvest will not be so rich. A solution can be found in using it to protect perennial onions, in this way it will be possible to preserve the plants and not harm them due to the abundance or lack of moisture.

Garlic or radishes can be an excellent neighbor. Joint planting with lettuce and spinach will also have a positive effect on the harvest.

Very often in gardens you can see dill growing next to carrots. Experienced farmers recommend abandoning such a neighborhood, because both crops have common pests and are constantly fighting for moisture and nutrients.

Also bad neighbors for carrots are: parsley, celery, anise. And if you plant it next to an apple tree, then the fruits of both the first and the second will lose their taste.

What plants can be combined with potatoes in the garden beds?

Potatoes are grown throughout the country, but this vegetable is famous for its particularly high yields middle lane. It rightfully has the title of second bread and is used in many dishes. There are dozens of ways to plant potatoes and grow them. The vegetable is unpretentious and does not require daily care from the gardener, which adds even more popularity to it.

Many gardeners do not plant any other crops in potato fields, and this is in vain, since friend plants can increase the yield and repel pests. For example, beans planted between rows help in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. For the same purposes, nasturtium, tansy and marigold are used. Spinach and coriander have proven themselves to be good neighbors for potatoes.

If you plant beans in a potato field, they will enrich the soil with nitrogen. This will allow you to get higher yields. Some gardeners immediately throw a couple of bean seeds into the hole when planting potatoes, while others plant them along the edges of the field and between the rows. To get rid of pests, it is also good to grow horseradish nearby. But you need to keep in mind that it multiplies very quickly and is difficult to remove from the site, so it is better to control its quantity in the garden. Tall and dense thickets of horseradish can negatively affect the potato harvest.

Also good in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle are catnip, flax, and coriander. There are also plants that can be used as bait for pests. These include belladonna and datura. They are very attractive to Colorado potato beetles, which lay their larvae on them and they soon die due to the high toxicity of the plants. But belladonna is also dangerous for humans, so this method is often difficult to implement. It is easier to use unnecessary eggplant seedlings as traps, which are also extremely attractive to Colorado potato beetles. True, you will have to collect the larvae from these plants manually.

To prevent late blight on potatoes, you can plant garlic nearby. Corn, lettuce, radishes and cabbage will also be good neighbors for the vegetable.

Potatoes have a lot of friendly plants, but there are also many hostile crops. The most dangerous weed is quinoa, which will slow down the growth of tubers. Sunflower will also not make a good neighbor, as it has a depressing effect on potatoes. It is also undesirable to grow beets nearby. Raspberries, zucchini and tomatoes located nearby increase the likelihood of plants becoming infected with late blight. It is undesirable to plant potatoes next to an apple tree, as it slows down its growth and contributes to a decrease in yield.

What plants can be combined with beets in the garden beds?

The main enemy of beets is aphids, which can destroy the plant and deprive the gardener of the harvest. This vegetable is also susceptible to damage to the tops by flea beetles. You can get rid of both the first and second pests by choosing suitable neighbors for the beets in the garden. Mint and catnip can have a beneficial effect, which can be planted nearby and a decoction can be prepared from them for sprinkling.

Beets do well next to white cabbage, radishes and carrots. Strawberries or onions are also great as a neighbor.

It is not advisable to plant beets near potato fields, as their growth may be slowed down. Also, mustard and climbing beans are undesirable as neighbors.

When combining beets with other crops, it should be taken into account that they need a lot of space, so it is not advisable to plant companion plants close to each other. With sufficient free space, both vegetables will yield a good harvest.

What plants can be combined with bell peppers in the garden beds?

For pepper, the best neighbor is basil, which has a beneficial effect on its growth. It also feels good in the same bed with okra. Peppers grow well next to onions and catnip, which help it get rid of aphids. Its combination with beets, beans and fennel is also successful.

Incompatible plants for peppers are peas and carrots. The company of beans is also undesirable for him, since they have common diseases.

What plants can be combined with onions in the garden beds?

Onions are included in the mandatory planting list of every summer resident. It is eaten as a snack and in dishes, and is also often used as an ingredient for winter preparations. They plant white onions, red onions, and perennial onions. In recent years, gardeners have also fallen in love with the milder-tasting shallots and low-maintenance leeks. But this unpretentious vegetable also needs useful neighbors in the garden.

Carrots are traditionally considered the best companion for onions; almost all gardeners place them nearby. Yes, they control each other's pests, but different watering requirements make this a problematic partnership. Onions don't need much moisture, but carrots do. Therefore, such a neighborhood will be more favorable for perennial varieties used for feathers.

An excellent addition to the onion bed would be melons, any kind of greens and beets. It is also suitable for proximity to strawberries or tomatoes. Among the weeds, the best additions would be nettle and thistle.

Grapes, sage and beans will be a bad ally for onions. Also, this vegetable does not tolerate the proximity of gladioli.

What plants can be combined with garlic in the garden beds?

Garlic is loved by gardeners for its bright pungent taste and wonderful medicinal properties. It is eaten to prevent colds, and various tinctures are made from it to enhance immunity. It has properties useful to gardeners: it repels caterpillars and slugs, and when planting a large area, it helps get rid of moles on the site.

Garlic feels great in the garden next to celery, carrots, and radish salad. It is also planted on the sides of potato fields, as it helps fight late blight. Flowers that are also suitable for garlic as neighbors are roses, daffodils, and gladioli.

But proximity to legumes is contraindicated for him. Also, it is not suitable as a companion for peanuts and perennial onions.

What plants can be combined with eggplants in the garden beds?

Eggplants are rarely found in vegetable gardens. This low prevalence is explained by difficulties in care and preparation. If zucchini can be immediately fried or boiled, then the eggplants must be soaked before putting into the frying pan.

These vegetables have a wonderful combination with beans, which drives Colorado potato beetles away from them. Thyme is also beneficial because it repels fleas. Eggplant feels good next to lettuce, onions and beans. Spinach, peppers or peas will also be an excellent neighbor.

Planting eggplants next to cucumbers is not best idea, these vegetables negatively affect each other. And eggplants feel best alone in their own individual beds.

What to plant with what? This largely depends on the owner of the garden or vegetable garden, but it is better to first familiarize yourself with the vegetable compatibility table.

The compatibility of plants with each other is probably the most topical issue gardeners, because our harvest will depend on the proximity of plants to each other.

Now there is such a science as allelopathy. It's funny, but translated from Greek this word means shared suffering. Those. essentially it is the science of how plants can mutually influence each other - oppressing some and helping others. It turns out that in nature, plants behave the same way as people.

Below I present an excerpt from the book by B.V. Bublik, a well-known agronomist in Russia on organic farming, “The Melange Garden”

Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion to potatoes and oatmeal. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of watermelons.

Eggplant. Ashiritsa helps eggplants grow healthy (in small quantities, of course). Beans repel the Colorado potato beetle. The space between the eggplants (quite extensive) can be successfully used for salad. It is beneficial to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against fleas (in extreme cases, infusions).

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is a type of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden bed in the winter, and in the spring, peas can be planted on the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, and cucumbers with okra.

Peas. Peas are an excellent companion for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all kinds of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent rotting of pea roots. Lettuce, spinach and even eggplants grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can cross-pollinate, and both will become bitter. Radishes and pigweed help melons grow.

Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar. Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbages by celery, thyme, hyssop, and wormwood. The combination of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), onions of various types (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans is beneficial for cabbage. Cabbage is compatible with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explained only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): I have simply never seen such tight, tasty and clean cabbage as planted between rows of potatoes after hilling. Cabbage doesn't like strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower does not like the proximity of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants shading it.

Potato. Many plants can provide useful company to potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, ashiritsa. But potatoes have an affectionate “companion” - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, among the possible neighbors, we will single out those who can help the potato in this trouble. Horseradish protects potatoes well from the Colorado potato beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters in depth and breadth, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would protect the garden from horseradish contamination. Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (tend to expand the territory they occupy) and cannot be planted together with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. The infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetactone, which is destructive to the larvae. The infusion of delphinium has the same property. Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then forgotten about them. Coriander, nasturtium, and flax repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly). They can be sown at random, but it is better on the south side of the row: they will cover the soil of the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant to the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can confuse it. To combat the beetle, you can use trap plants. If you have extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants - rarely, every 20 bushes. The beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (belladonna) are even more elegant in this role. Female beetles lay eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae are literally trapped: the leaves are deadly poisonous to them, and they are unable and unwilling to change the plant. True, creating these traps is a rather troublesome task: prepare seeds, sow them at the right time and in the right place (or even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-sowing. If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmice, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, and orioles - can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle. Effective in the fight against beetles, an infusion of nut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the poison juglone contained in them is very persistent, unlike nepetactone or the curare-like poison of delphinium. Of course, if we “live together”, then we can water the garden with juglone. But then it’s even “better” to sprinkle DDT.
Another serious scourge for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes fight late blight is garlic. Not only on its own, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for infusion. Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. The ability of potatoes to resist the disease is weakened by raspberries and, naturally, tomatoes growing nearby. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini and cucumbers can be home to late blight, although they themselves do not suffer from it.
Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, onion. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad influence on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and the latter (in revenge, or what?) prevents the apple trees from absorbing phosphorus and nitrogen. It is bad in the vicinity of turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Onion. Onions are good in company with different types of cabbages. He also loves onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial onions (batun, chaivis) are good in circles near roses. Onions are especially useful in the proximity of carrots and potatoes. Brilliant company - borage, sow thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladius. Onion borers do not like onions.

Carrot. Carrots go well with onions of all kinds, garlic, oatmeal, but dill and anise go poorly. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects. There is no need to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will taste bitter.
Oat root. Oat root repels onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (which also repel onion flies) and sown in rows interspersed with onion ones.

cucumbers. Cucumbers go very well with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive ants away. The proximity of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, and sunflowers has a beneficial effect on cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around a cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and flourish, scare away harmful insects (cucumber beetles, for example), and attract beneficial ones. Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, pigweed, sow thistle, tansy. The proximity of tall plants that provide light shade is beneficial for cucumbers. Shchiritsa sacrificially lures caterpillars that gnaw at the roots.

Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Parsnips are frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Blooming parsnips (in the second year) are attractive to beneficial insects. It is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help it grow.

Pepper. Pepper feels good with basil - they provide mutual services to each other. Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of the pepper from the wind and the fruits from the sun. Onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, and marigolds can repel aphids from peppers. Nasturtium can be used as a trap. It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, you need to keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. It rarely attacks tomatoes, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, you need, for example, to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from the drying potato tops to the tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and when the potato tops are drying out, a steady wind blows from the tomatoes onto the potato beds. Late blight is worse. When ideal conditions are created for the epiphytosis of late blight, it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved through prevention, for example, by venting the “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - with garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, etc.). Tomatoes are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular, with cosmos. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels hornworms. Stinging and dead nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). Shchiritsa is useful in small quantities. Tomato leaves contain solanine and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot. Tomato root secretions are harmful to apricots. Corn and tomatoes should not be planted next to each other.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes and any cabbage except cauliflower. It is not harmed by some shading, which can be provided, for example, by Brussels sprouts. Climbing beans and mustard are unpleasant neighbors for beets. By spraying beets with mint or catnip infusions, you can rid them of flea beetles. The flea beetle, however, only brings “cosmetic” damage to beets. Worse with aphids. If colonies of aphids appear on beets, they can cause noticeable damage to them. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but a decoction of rhubarb leaves or a garlic infusion is more effective. You need to especially carefully look after beets growing next to Brussels sprouts, which are adored by aphids more than any other vegetable. By the way, some birds love aphids - sparrows, titmice, finches, nuthatches.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, and bush beans. They like to gather in celery roots earthworms: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a kind of home for the worms. Celery loves shade. In it it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, particularly wheat. Corn benefits greatly from company with soybeans. Soybeans repel corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed the corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. Radishes planted around the hole help the pumpkin fight pests. Nasturtium is also good in this role. Pigweed, quinoa, and sow thistle promote better growth (naturally, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Beans in strawberries are useful. It helps corn and pumpkin. The company with radishes is mutually beneficial. Carrots help beans grow. Beans and savory make a wonderful pair. Both taste better and pests do not find their way to them. Climbing beans do not do well with beets, kohlrabi, and sunflowers. All onions and gladioli inhibit beans.

Garlic. Garlic is incredibly good in a social garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles. Garlic makes an excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, and late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, and beans from certain fungal diseases. Housewives have been putting garlic cloves into grain, flour, and cereals for a long time. Garlic is good for surrounding fruit trees, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows superbly in company with many plants (even the very allelopathic vetch!). An indispensable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Spices
Here we will talk about herbs that are good both on the table and in the garden. They add taste and aroma to food, energy and resistance to pests and diseases to plants, fertility to soil, harvest to vegetables, and beauty to the garden.

Basil. If we talk about spices in our gardens and don’t start with basil, God will not forgive. What other herb is so beautiful - what does it taste, what does it smell, what does it look like?
And yet, basil is interesting not only from a culinary and aesthetic point of view. It also carries some “social” burdens. Repels hornworms from tomatoes and corn. Keeps ants at bay. A crushed basil leaf is the best (and most pleasant) mosquito repellent. Basil grows very well with sweet peppers, but poorly with rue. Adds energy to neighboring plants. Repels aphids and ticks from them. Confusion of the Colorado potato beetle. Dispels flies in the kitchen.

Oregano and marjoram. Oregano (motherland) and its cultivated analogue, marjoram, are good both in the kitchen and in the garden. They have a persistent pungent odor, reminiscent of thyme. All plants feel good near oregano and marjoram: both growth and taste improve. The proximity of cabbage to them is especially useful: they drive away the cabbage butterfly.

Snakehead. Snakehead (Turkish mint) owes its name to the seeds - black, flattened, with two white specks. It, like basil, attracts and shelters beneficial insects and protects plants from pests. As for his behavior in companies, we can say that observations of the snakehead for ten years have not yet given any reason to believe that anyone is having a bad time with him.
Thanks to its “ankle-like nature,” the snakehead can provide support and favorable shade for cucumbers.

Hyssop. Not everyone enjoys the camphorous smell of hyssop, so it may seem inappropriate in salads. But for treatment various diseases respiratory organs - chronic cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma- it is irreplaceable (used as an infusion). For this alone you can find a place for him. Just find it, because hyssop, unfortunately, is expansive and over time it may become more abundant than we would like. Hyssop attracts bees and repels many pests. Increases grape yield. It is bad for radishes and radishes near hyssop.

Coriander. Coriander has many virtues. It is very useful for anise: it improves seed germination, improves growth, and increases the size of umbrellas. Promotes the growth of cumin rosettes (in the first year). It repels aphids well from the plants they adore. It blooms luxuriously and attracts a lot of beneficial insects.
Coriander is a good neighbor for almost all plants. It only oppresses

fennel. And rightly so for this “bully”, who, consider it, is bad for the whole garden.
And finally, the most important advantage of coriander (from a sociable point of view): it can be sown anywhere (and anytime). And in a bed with wintering coriander, you can plant and sow any crops directly over the “stubble”, without digging: the soil is so thoroughly “plowed” with its roots.

Mint. Mint is a favorite in the social garden. Its strong, pungent smell drives away pests. Next to it, the growth and taste of cabbage and tomatoes improves. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Mint gives lamb meat, egg, pea, and potato dishes a unique aroma. One problem with mint is its tendency to uncontrollably expand its area. So you need to choose a place for her with some caution. It is more difficult to “hobble” mint in the garden than to plant it in a window: just dig up the rhizomes in late autumn, put them in a box, cover them with 3-4 cm of soil, water them carefully and enjoy them all winter long.
Mint is suitable for fungicidal solutions.

Borage. Borage (borage) stimulates the growth of many plants, especially strawberries. Just keep in mind that the borage bush grows over time and needs to be pruned or even removed if it begins to heavily obscure other plants. In its presence, plant resistance to diseases increases. Borage is also known as an indispensable remedy in the fight against cabbage caterpillars.

Parsley. The role of parsley in an intensive garden is significant. The presence of parsley gives health to tomatoes and improves their taste. Parsley rosettes cover the soil well tall plants and enliven the floral landscape. It is useful to “ring” whimsical roses with parsley.
Blooming second-year parsley provides shelter and food for a host of beneficial insects. You can save “extra” bushes of flowering parsley in the garden, but, in order to avoid self-seeding, send them to compost heap when the seeds begin to ripen. Typically, parsley that produces seeds dries out.
You can protect yourself from carrot flies, which can bother parsley, as well as slugs using leeks. Wonderful, technologically compatible company. In summer, leeks protect parsley from the sun. Both crops (at least partially) remain overwintered in the ground. They should be covered with light mulch, uncovered early in the spring, and early greenery trimmed from both.
Joint planting of parsley and leeks is organized as follows. As soon as it becomes possible work in the garden, parsley is sown in ribbons 5-6 cm wide with row spacing of 30 cm. And after a couple of weeks, 10-week-old leek seedlings are planted between the rows - and the bed is formed. Until the parsley sprouts, you need to keep the bed clean, let the soil warm up, and then mulch it and no longer disturb it with a hoe until next spring. You may need to pull out weeds that have made their way through the mulch from time to time.
Parsley is chock-full of vitamin E. It's hard to name a dish that it could ruin. And among the Caucasians, famous for their longevity and “agility,” it is simply unthinkable to have a table without fragrant sprigs of parsley.

Watercress. This herb is an even more essential spice on the Caucasian table than parsley. The ease of growing watercress is beyond anything imaginable. It is enough to scatter the seeds, but you may not have time to sprinkle them - they sprout so quickly. But seriously, it takes two to three days for it to sprout.
As a culture for companies, cress does not deserve kind words. It oppresses (and this is not folklore, but scientific fact!) shoots of many crops, even the wiki that knows how to “fight back”. It is bad for the plants that have already appeared in the vicinity. So you need to sow cress separately

Ruta. Rue doesn't do well with basil. And roses and raspberries are a good protector against pests. The only trouble with rue is that its leaves can cause skin burns when it is in bloom. If trouble happens, you need to wash your hands with soap and lubricate them with vegetable oil.
Rue grows well with almost all flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. Helps get rid of flies near the compost heap and around the yard.
Rue has an unusual, but very useful property: if your favorite cat likes to scratch your favorite furniture, then you need to rub the places on the furniture accessible to the cat with rue leaves. And the furniture will be intact, and the cat will not “work.”

Dill. Really, everyone knows everything about dill. But there is one misconception that must be mentioned when discussing the sociable properties of plants. Usually dill grows anywhere, by self-sowing. Some gardeners don’t even sow it at all, but make do with the carrion seedlings, carefully avoiding them when weeding. This is what you shouldn’t do. Many plants (especially potatoes, carrots, tomatoes) do not like the proximity of dill. It significantly suppresses their growth and reduces yield. It reduces noticeably and clearly. It’s strange that many gardeners don’t see this.
Dill also has friends. Next to it, cabbage grows better and tastes better. Not bad for onions, lettuce, cucumbers. Cucumbers especially benefit from the shade of dill. Dill umbels are very tempting to beneficial insects.

Fennel. Plants that are friends of fennel are unknown to folklore. But this does not mean that it has no place in the garden. It attracts and provides shelter to so many beneficial insects that it can compete with such “tempters” as tansy, angelica, and goldenrod. It can only be inferior to the katran, but the katran blooms for only two weeks, and fennel - for several months. It blooms even after the first frost, when fennel’s brother, dill, has already wilted under the onslaught of cold. This refers to dill sown in the fall, and not the dill of the spring “call” - this has long since disappeared.
It is necessary to sow fennel in the garden, it is very necessary, but choose a separate place for it - the ruff one - without neighbors.

Sage. Sage is indispensable near cabbages - it gives cabbage flavor and juiciness, but pests do not like it. Sage with carrots is good (the carrot fly cannot tolerate it). But sage is contraindicated for cucumbers.

Thyme. Thyme grows not only in the garden. He also creeps into wildlife, on the sunny slopes. It is better to propagate it not by seeds, but by dividing the rhizomes.
Young leaves and shoots are used like any other edible herb. Dried thyme makes an excellent tea. A fragrant bath with thyme infusion. You can grow thyme in any corner of the garden. It is a weak eater, grows slowly and does not compete with anyone for light or nutrients. Improves the taste of vegetables, repels pests, attracts bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects. An excellent companion for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.
Some crops can be sprayed with thyme decoction: it masks the “native” smell. There is conflicting information about cabbage: cabbage itself is beneficial in proximity to thyme, but its pests are not afraid of the smell of thyme. A “carpet” of thyme under roses, anise, and corn is good.

Chaivis. This fragrant onion, also called onion, chives, chives, is good because it supplies a delicate, non-coarse feather from snow to snow. Decorates salads and various dishes. Its feather tastes softer than that of an onion.
Chaivis is good in company with carrots, tomatoes, roses, and grapes. A circle of chaivis around an apple tree will protect it from scab, and around a rose - from black spotting. But, like garlic (and all onions in general), it is a poor companion for peas and beans. Chaivis infusion can prevent powdery mildew on cucumbers and gooseberries.
You can easily start chaivis on the windowsill for forcing fresh herbs in winter: with the onset of cold weather, dig up required quantity bunches, cut them 4-5 cm from the beginning of the roots, keep them in the cellar for 3-4 weeks, simulating hibernation, then separate the bunches, easily trim the roots, hold them in hot water and put it in a box. It is necessary to collect greens by cutting off the entire plants at a level of 4-5 cm above the ground. And under no circumstances should you pluck the feathers - the remaining parts will turn yellow and the plant will become sick.

Technological crops
Technological crops here are called green manure crops. It so happened that plowed green fertilizers have always been called green manures. And the “fertilizing” function of these crops is far from the most important. More important functions are protecting the soil in the off-season from rain and winds, improving the structure of the soil, increasing biomass for compost and mulch... In the first place is, of course, loosening the soil.

Vika. If suddenly there were no buckwheat in the world, then Vika would not have to ask “My light, mirror, tell me...” - it would undoubtedly be the best technological culture.
The main and invaluable advantage of vetch is the creation of amazing soil. It not only loosens and adds organic matter to the soil. By fixing free nitrogen, it enriches the soil with nitrogen compounds available to plants. Vetch tissues contain a lot of phosphorus.
When vetch blooms, all kinds of insects - pollinators - swarm around it. It provides a secluded refuge for ground beetles (ground beetles) and spiders. There is no need, of course, to transfer the caring attitude towards the ground beetle to a similar carabid beetle, capable of cutting more than one strawberry bush “like Kotovsky.” The krawchik is noticeably more lobed than the ground beetle and has a cutting apparatus reminiscent of “claws.” snow blower. Fortunately, the fight against the crayfish is not difficult: just early in the morning or late in the evening, pour boiling water over its hole (with a fresh release of soil).
Beds sown with winter vetch can be planted in the spring for heat-loving crops. Keeping in mind the allelopathic nature of vetch (including “post-mortem”), it needs to be embedded in the soil 3-4 weeks before planting and allowed to “ferment.” The soil will become loose, structured, rich in nutrients. Just keep in mind that, as the vetch ripens, it “shoots” the seeds many meters around, and then they sprout within a few years.
The vetch, which is prone to lodging, needs some kind of “nanny” whose hem the vetch could hold on to. Usually for this purpose it is sown with oats (spring) or rye (autumn). As already mentioned, vetch is allelopathic, but don’t put your finger in your mouth either on oats or rye. Of course, the vetch would grow better without these neighbors, but then it would die and rot. However, if winter vetch is embedded in the soil in the spring, then there is no need for support.
There was a case when barley was sown in the spring to the winter vetch, which was left without support (there was no rye at hand). Vika allowed him to ascend, catch up with her (she grows slowly), and then crushed her. To death. She didn’t take away the light - the barley was already taller; she didn’t starve them to death - there would have been enough “food” in the soil for both of them, but she simply poisoned them with root secretions. At that time, I had heard a lot about allelopathy, but I didn’t think it was so serious. Now I understand that the cultures that support vetch are sown at the same time as it and manage to gain the necessary strength to resist it. But the young barley plants could not cope with the vetch.
There was another embarrassment. Once I gave up a bed of vetch to the peppers already in the days of planting the peppers, losing sight of the “ruffiness” of the vetch. The vetch embedded in the soil did not have time to clear itself, and the peppers stood there in vain until the fall; they did not even grow decent tops.
It is a pity that such a valuable plant is so aggressive. If we consider that vetch that is cut in bloom dies, then how many interesting companies could be created with it. But, in the end, the vetch does not eat its bread for nothing. No plant can compare with it in creating and protecting the soil during the long off-season.

Buckwheat. It's a shame: such an extraordinary plant also has a serious drawback - buckwheat is incredibly heat-loving. Even +4 (plus!) degrees is enough for it to, if not wilt, turn sour. This greatly hinders the creation of companies with buckwheat (also, incidentally, allelopathic). As soon as you wait out the possible spring frosts (and this is right up to June), September is already around the corner. But still…
Buckwheat can be sown in any clearing formed in the summer. It suppresses weeds well, enriches the soil with organic material, converts phosphorus from forms inaccessible to other plants into accessible ones, and attracts bees, hoverflies and wasps from all over the area with nectar-rich flowers.
The excessive heat-loving nature of buckwheat is fully compensated by its “agility”. It manages to reach the required size and bloom well, even when sown after potatoes. And after garlic, peas, lettuce - give ripened seeds. This is very important, because buckwheat seeds cannot be obtained without hassle.
Buckwheat is a good neighbor for cabbage. The buckwheat carpet around the cabbage camouflages it, confusing butterflies, cutworms and moths, and the cabbage becomes tastier and cleaner.

Oats. A seemingly harmless culture. But if you sow oats in a former raspberry field, you can get rid of the inevitable raspberry growth.
Oats are very good as a technological crop. Sown at the end of summer, it will have time to build up a fairly rich biomass, loosen the soil and cover it for the winter. Until spring, the remaining oats will be washed, get rid of harmful secretions, and the bed, enriched and loosened, will be ready
accept any culture without digging.
There was a curious incident. A neighbor, inclined to look closely at the soil, once sowed oats for grazing geese after harvesting potatoes. And in the fall, having pulled out a bunch of oats, I was amazed: “Is this my land?” So lumpy, beautiful, brownish, stuffed with earthworms, the soil in the lump was unrecognizable.
Oats are good as a “pioneer”. If it is sown first in virgin soil or fallow lands, the soil will be cleared of May beetle caterpillars, etc.

Wheat. Wheat is allelopathic, but not as noticeably as rye. She cannot do anything with poppy, bindweed, and thistle that are harmful to her (rye could deal with them “with one left”). Chamomile helps wheat grow (in very small quantities). Closely growing tulips and sorghum are harmful.
Wheat straw is often used as mulch. Clean, bright, it is incomparable on strawberries.
By the way, the English name for strawberry is simply “straw berry”. This is how strawberries and straw “grew together”!
It is necessary, just in case, to avoid embedding straw (even former mulch) into the soil. It’s better to let it rot in a heap for a year, the harmful discharge will stop - then you’re welcome. It has been established, for example, that if lettuce roots come into contact with straw rotting in the soil, the plant dries out. This straw reduces seed germination (and yield) of corn by about half.

Rye. Here is another culture ready to “talk to the mirror.” But it is not without a defect: it has high allelopathic activity. Before my eyes, she literally wiped out the seedlings of beets, lettuce, spinach, oat roots, and carrots from the face of the earth. I used to be surprised at the purity of the rye fields. But it turns out that we should have been surprised at the weed that survived in this field.
However, recently my friends amazed me with an unusual (and unexpected) picture. As is customary in Ukraine, their potato plot was framed by strips of beets. After harvesting the potatoes, they sowed the area with rye. By the end of autumn, she managed to grow almost to her knees - an emerald, and that’s all. But - almost a meter wide strips of rye from the beets looked like they had been watered with Roundup - undersized, withered. Ripe beets did to rye what rye that grew in the spring did to young beets. Truly “mutual suffering”!
Rye has one valuable (if not priceless) quality: it kills the inaccessible root nematode. It is enough to sow rye in the fall and incorporate it into the soil in the spring - the nematode will disappear.
If rye is left for grain, then it is very useful to have a small amount of chamomile in this bed - the ear will be fuller.
A small amount of rye will relieve strawberries from black rot, and onions from some fungal diseases. Rye flour helps fight cabbage pests: sprinkling cabbage with flour dehydrates the caterpillars.
Finally, we must recall the main, integumentary function of rye. Together with and without vetch, it covers and binds the soil during the difficult autumn-winter period. If there is no need for rye seeds or grain, in the spring you can embed it in the soil or remove it (along with the roots, just in case) to the compost heap. In a heap, this nitrogenous additive is more appropriate than in the soil (due to “post-mortem” allelopathicity).
With the help of rye you can clear a plot clogged with wheatgrass. It is enough to grow rye on it for two seasons in a row.

Chumiza. Chumiza (Italian millet) is a random find of mine. The first time it was sown out of pure curiosity and it was right at home. It penetrates the entire arable layer with powerful root “balls”. In one year, the soil becomes unrecognizable - granular, richly fertilized with roots.
An unusually productive crop. The ears can reach the size of a cattail “rocking chair”. Grain is an excellent feed for chickens. It is known that hens teach their chicks to different foods gradually - they “pay attention” to earthworms, for example, only in the second week. So, they include chumiza in the chickens’ diet from the first day.
However, the most valuable quality of chumiza is its extraordinary cleaning ability. In its vicinity, only its closest relative, mice, survives. All other weeds are suppressed - even bindweed, which fears neither God nor the devil.
Chumiza has one defect - it is heat-loving. She has to give up the garden bed for everything summer time. However, not in vain. Builds soil, kills weeds, provides straw for mulch and millet for chickens - quite a lot...

Flowers

Only a few of the most popular flowers are discussed here.

Marigold. Marigolds (tagetes) are just like that: all the fuss around them is throwing the seeds at the right time and in the right place, and then throwing them into the compost heap or planting them in the soil at the right time. But in companies they are not so simple.
On the one hand, marigolds are an excellent means of combating root nematodes. Their roots attract the nematode, but it cannot reproduce in their environment. Dead end! Moreover, not only the roots are effective, but also the plants themselves, embedded in the soil. Marigolds protect beans, cabbage, tomatoes, and roses from pests. The Colorado potato beetle and aphids do not like it.
On the other hand, they are quite allelopathic, in particular, they inhibit the growth of beans and cabbage, which are protected from pests. Just like in the famous poem “I won’t let anyone hurt my sister Lida...”.

Calendula. Calendula is a very widespread flower in our country. And he deserves it. It blooms profusely (if regularly cut) and for a long time, until severe frosts, pleasing the eye both for us and for beneficial insects.
Unfortunately, calendula is vulnerable to aphids. Well, let it serve as a trap, and let the branches affected by aphids serve as a nitrogen supplement for the compost heap.
Calendula easily, against the will of the gardener, sows. She shouldn’t be allowed to do this: she’s a little allelopathic. Inhibits, for example, corn, watermelons, melons. In general, calendula is useful in some companies, because its pungent odor makes it difficult for pests to find their “breadwinners”. It produces abundant biomass.

Space(cosmea). You want to find something good in every plant, but you don’t need to look in space. Simply an impeccable plant in all respects. Beautiful, graceful, harmless, with abundant but sparse, feathery foliage and cute, unpretentious flowers. Space is prone to self-seeding - and thank God. Let him grow where he pleases. It is attractive to bees and other beneficial insects that find nectar in the flowers and shelter in the branches.
Fragile branches can break under their own weight - this is also good: you can stick a branch into moist soil and a new plant will grow in a week.
Cosmos can be sown at any time in any suitable place - for living mulch, for shading plants thirsty for shade, for a bouquet. This is also a flower that the more you cut, the more it grows. It is useful to pinch a young seedling - then the space will branch more strongly.
It sounds paradoxical, but litter the garden with space, and it will become more alive in every sense of this capacious word.

Linen. Flax, of course, is a technical crop, but in the garden flax is flowers, and therefore it is described here.
Flax was mentioned when listing plants that help potatoes in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. The beetle does not like the tannin and smell released by the leaves. linseed oil in ripening seeds. Flax is also good in company with carrots.
However, you shouldn’t get carried away with flax. Confusing the Colorado potato beetle is a sacred thing, but there is no need to sow flax anywhere - it is allelopathic.
There is decorative flax, red petal flax. It has larger flowers, it blooms until frost, but no information has been found that characterizes its behavior in companies.

Nasturtium. Aphids love nasturtium. Direct hint: you need to sow nasturtium next to crops that suffer damage from aphids, lure the aphids into this trap, and then remove the canes infected with aphids into the compost heap.
If you need nasturtium on its own, you can spray it with soapy water.
But other pests, for example, cabbage whitefly, do not like the smell of nasturtium. Nasturtium also protects beans, cucumbers, and pumpkin. Many beneficial insects hunt for the nectar of nasturtium flowers.

Sunflower. Sunflower is described here for the same reason as flax. In the garden it is not a technical crop; it is grown mainly for fun.
So that's about fun. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, and you should not litter it in the garden. However, the sunflower itself is not a gift to the neighbors.

Beans, pumpkin, cucumbers, corn, soybeans - these are all the crops that do well in the company of sunflowers. It is especially bad for tomatoes and potatoes. Moreover, it oppresses its neighbors not only because it is allelopathic. It creates a thick shadow. In addition, it is known as a glutton even among plants - strong eaters and literally eats up its neighbors.
And, nevertheless, it is necessary to plant sunflowers in the garden, and not only for the sake of tradition. It can even surpass buckwheat in its attractiveness to bees. But the place for it must be chosen quite carefully, keeping in mind both the allelopathic nature and the gluttony of the sunflower. And to thin out the shadow it casts, break off the lower 6-7 leaves.

Zinnias. Zinnias are just as easy to grow as marigolds, except they need to be cut more often - to the benefit of them and the bouquet. When regularly cut, the bush branches strongly and blooms powerfully. And cut flowers remain fresh for a long time.
Zinnias attract all kinds of beneficial insects. Their cheerful coloring is also cute for gardeners.
You can sow zinnias anywhere for the sake of beauty, to “call” beneficial insects, and to shade plants that need protection from the sun. They are completely harmless and not allelopathic. They bloom quite quickly and manage to produce flowers even if they are sown after harvesting the potatoes.
By the way, zinnias are an excellent cover crop. The plant is strong, does not shrink from frost, like buckwheat and even oats, stands with leaves all winter and retains snow well in winter and melt water in spring.

Chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums require some fiddling. And they cannot be raised on vegetable beds: rain washes away toxic compounds from their leaves that inhibit seedlings and the growth of other plants. Moreover, they are even “disgusted to themselves”: they grow poorly in the place where they grew before.

Article taken from the site: http://derevnyaonline.ru/community/264/3052, based on materials from the book by B.V. Bagel "Melange Garden", by elsa27

Joint plantingsvegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops at the dachas there is a garden bed x is not know-how, not innovation, but technology used over many centuries of traditional cultivation of vegetable crops. Examples of joint planting of vegetables in bedswere known to both the American Indians and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction of different crops within a separate industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about beneficial or depressing mutual influence various plants, planted nearby. For small country farms themeco-cultivationof various vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of this planting method will allow using the available space more economically in terms of quantity and more efficiently in terms of quality.

Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?

To get the maximum yield on a minimum area using the technology of combined beds, it is necessary to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even the incorrect rotation of crops planted on the same plot of land in different years, can either improve the result or negate all the efforts of the gardener. Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of the plantings, the right choice neighbour and in the garden bed allows you to solve both problems.

Understanding the secrets of combined cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative crops You can achieve not only a rich, healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: a garden bed can become a decoration for your garden, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, the following factors must be taken into account: Plants with similar maintenance conditions and care requirements are planted in one bed: lighting, humidity, acidity and soil structure, regime and composition of fertilizing. If the cultures coincide in most parameters, then the nuances can be taken into account by correctly drawing up a diagramjoint landing: more moisture-loving plant plant in the center of the bed, where the soil moisture level is higher than at the edge. The same applies to sizes: the tallest specimens from a set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest ones - in the border, then everyone will have enough sunlight.

Compliance with crop rotation is an indispensable condition. Related crops belonging to the same family should not follow Friend after each other from season to season, since they draw from the soil the nutrients necessary for these particular plants (which means that the next season the “relative” will already be deprived of soil fertility) and pathogenic microorganisms accumulate over the season, causing harm to this particular family (and therefore , a “relative” is initially susceptible to a “family” disease). Plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots should be planted side by side in one bed so that these crops are adjacent and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of neighbors will not compete for underground space, each developing in its own direction.

Joint landingcultivation of different crops is possible not only within a spatial framework, when plants are simultaneously planted and ripen at the same time.

Joint planting within temporary boundaries allows you to harvest some vegetables, freeing up space for later neighbors to emerge and begin to develop.

Good example such a conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden bed, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Planting: lettuce (leaf) and radishes in one row - alternating every 10 cm; next row: watercress, kohlrabi cabbage alternates in a row with a head variety of lettuce, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, an early variety of potatoes, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 k ultur. Harvesting: spinach and watercress are harvested first (cut off the leaves and leave the roots); As they ripen, the radishes are pulled out and the lettuce leaves are removed after one; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripened.

Example of vertical combining compatible plants in one bed: The bed is located in an east-west direction. Along the northern border along the entire length there is a trellis support for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - low-growing tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - a fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, and a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, the tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.

Advantages of mixed plantings

The advantages of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, taking into account their compatibility, include not only saving space, although it is this reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.

By wisely using the characteristics of certain plants, you can protect your plantings from attacks by insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, and herbs drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also become a reliable barrier. If you plant nasturtium next to vegetables, then aphids will prefer decorative culture without getting to the vegetables. The smell of rosemary will repel bean lovers, and thyme will help cabbage resist insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and aromatic additives for tea in the fall. Many cultures are not just friendship t, and show a beneficial effect on each other’s development: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn They are excellent neighbors, since their roots develop at different depths, and create the necessary shade for short plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.

Early spinach greens will provide soil moisture and keep weeds at bay while beets and beans, potatoes or tomatoes emerge in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots that are beneficial to the soil will remain in the ground, helping neighbors get food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting of vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the benefits of growing different crops in a common area, if you know that what and why is it friendly, what can be planted side by side in one common bed . It is equally important to consider which plants do not tolerate each other.

What are they compatible with?

Cabbage

Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, so onions and garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help against butterflies. Snails do not like borage, and flea beetles avoid planting celery.

In addition to the defenders, cabbage there are simply friendly neighboring vegetables: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.

Neighbors do not recommend carrots to go with cabbage (although with broccoli perhaps), beans, grapes, strawberries, and tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.

Tomatoes

It has been noticed that basil is not just best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes vegetables taste richer. Combines harmoniously with garlic, which protects against pests, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. They are developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes further away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.

cucumbers

There is experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover the neighbor from the hot sun.

Radishes and radishes repel bugs and improve the flavor of the fruit. Can plant next to onions with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - not bad example of joint cultivation in one bed. Spinach, beans and beans, dill, celery and even beets - good neighbors in cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetable crops and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, agaric, and quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.

Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow nearby, especially in greenhouses and hotbeds - they are too different conditions content. Potatoes and spices are also planted away from each other.

Pumpkin

Some gardeners believe that a pumpkin cannot find a favorable neighborhood. They definitely don’t plant pumpkins next to zucchini - this is fraught with cross-pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Possible joint plantings with radishes and nasturtium - these crops perform a protective function.

Carrot

The best neighbor for carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onions will rot or the carrots will not grow. Garlic, spinach, radishes, lettuce - the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.

Dill with carrot beds they tear them out mercilessly: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.

Potato

When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners throw a bean into the hole - the best partner of the crop, helping to get more bountiful harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic planted between rows helps cope with late blight.

Potatoes' friends include radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplants, horseradish (if its distribution is controlled), calendula, and corn.

But quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes; for the same reason, beets are not planted next to them. Raspberries and tomatoes can cause late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel - examples of crop incompatibility

Beet

Having identified as neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener saves himself from fighting aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root vegetables are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants need to be provided with a place - the plantings should not be thickened.

Beet antagonists are potatoes, beans. Not recommended nearby plant mustard.

bell pepper

Basil is not just a neighbor. This is an active assistant for Bulgarian peppers , it promotes better growth and development of the plant. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the peppers are carrots, peas, beans.

Onion

Perennial onions and carrots are an almost perfect examplecompatibility of plants in the garden. And onions grown for the sake of the bulb are incompatible with carrots, since moisture-loving carrots will ruin the neighbor or the onion harvest will leave the gardener without carrots, because they have different requirements for substrate moisture.

Onions are comfortable in the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, and strawberries. But not with sage, radishes, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.

Garlic

Garlic is valued by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable’s contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if a large area is planted with garlic. Garlic is friendly with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. It protects potato plantings from late blight, and decorative plants - gladioli and roses - from aphids.

Among the enemies of garlic, we note leguminous plants.

Eggplant

Eggplant with beans - an ideal combination in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. Creeping thyme protects eggplants from flea beetles. Included in one diagram planting with eggplants, onions, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers and cabbage.

Other vegetables

Radish It is good to grow next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, salads, tomatoes, and beans. But onions, cucumbers, and beets are not suitable for common planting with radishes.

Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.

Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for mandatory planting: agricultural technicians note it compatible with any plants in the gardenand benefit in enriching the dacha land.

Unfavorable neighborhood

The list of plants that do not get along in the close company of other crops is small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires individual planting.

More often, incompatibility is explained by related ties between crops (dill, coriander, parsley, the Apiaceae family, they compete and suffer from the same diseases).

When planning a general planting scheme, take into account the size of an adult plant, the characteristics of the root system, and the need for free space on a plot of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a neighborhood that is favorable in theory will only bring problems in practice.

By studying the influence of plants on each other, a gardener increases the efficiency of his work. Every year, a summer resident transforms the appearance of his plot, because knowledge of the basics of allelopathy of vegetable and horticultural crops allows him to create unique flower beds that produce a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.