To obtain large turnip onions, the best planting material is a set of 1.5-2.5 cm in size.

PREPARATION OF SEEDING FOR LANDING

Before planting, the onion sets are sorted out, all dried, bare, diseased, damaged, cut, sprouted bulbs are removed, the remaining ones are sorted by size so that the seedlings are uniform. Large, then medium and small bulbs are planted on the garden bed first.

If for planting you take your onion sets, which were stored at a temperature of 18-20 ° C, then its additional heating is not required. If you buy planting material, then 2-3 days before planting, be sure to warm the bulbs near heating devices at an air temperature of 30-40 "C.

You can carry out another treatment: just before planting, pour the seedlings into a bucket, pour hot water (55-60 ° C) for 1-2 minutes, and then lower them into cold water for 1 minute. If you do not do any processing, then the planted onion sets may go to the arrow.

After heating, the bulbs are soaked in a nutrient solution. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska, or nitroammofoska, or “Rost-1”, or any complex fertilizer, mix well and dip the bulbs in a tissue bag into this solution for 8-10 hours. Then, for the prevention of fungal diseases, a bag with bulbs, without washing, is dipped for 5-10 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or in a solution of cherry-colored potassium permanganate. Rinse the treated bulbs with clean water and start planting.

PREPARING THE BED

A bed for planting onion sets is prepared in the fall. Its width is 100 cm.All plant waste is removed from the garden bed, sprayed with a disinfectant solution of copper sulfate (for 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride, or polycarbocin) at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per 1 m 2. Onions grow well in neutral soils. Therefore, dolomite flour or chalk or a ready-made deoxidizing substrate (can be purchased at the Semyon store) is added to the acidic soil, at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 1 m 2. Then the bed is dug up with a pitchfork.

Before frosts, the garden bed is additionally shed with water, and in winter it is good to throw snow off the bed. All this is done for good freezing of the soil. As a rule, in such a bed, onions are less damaged by diseases and pests.

In the spring, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the garden, depending on the composition of the soil:

loamy soil - for 1 m 2 5-6 kg of humus, 4-5 kg ​​of peat, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystallin;

clay soil - for 1 m 2 5-6 kg of humus, 5-6 kg of peat, 8-10 kg of coarse river sand, 100-150 g of expanded clay drainage, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea;

peat soil - for 1 m 2 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 8-10 kg of coarse river sand, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea;

sandy soil - for 1 m 2 1 bucket of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat, 1 bucket of loamy or clay soil, 2 tablespoons of dry fertilizer "Nurse" and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska.

The bed is dug to the depth of a bayonet shovel, leveled with a rake, slightly compacted and disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 1 m 2.

The prepared bed is covered for 2-3 days with a film for better heating of the soil, since the seedlings planted in cold soil (below 12 ° C) can go to the arrow.

LANDING ONION-SEVKA

In southern climatic zones, onion sets are planted in the third decade of April, in other regions - in the first decade of May. You cannot be late with planting, otherwise, due to a lack of moisture and high temperature, the onion will develop slowly.

Before planting the bulbs, the bed is marked: grooves are made to a depth of 4 cm with a distance of 20-25 cm between them. The soil is watered from a watering can with a fine strainer with water at room temperature (20 ° C) at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2.

The bulbs are planted in grooves with a distance of 8-10 cm from each other so that the soil layer above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2-2.5 cm. If the planting is too deep, ripening will be delayed, and the bulb itself will change shape. When planted shallowly, the bulbs are exposed and their growth is suspended, especially in hot, dry weather.

Shoots appear 5-6 days after planting.

CARE FOR ONION-REPKA

Care consists in watering, weeding, loosening, feeding and processing.

Watering. Onions are quite picky about watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July).

In May, it is watered every week from 6 to 10 liters per 1 m 2, in June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m 2. in the first half of July, every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m 2. If the second half of July is hot, then you can water 1-2 times in 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m 2. Pour from a watering can with a small stream so as not to break the leaves. Watering is completely stopped 15-20 days before harvesting.

Do not water the onion with cold (below 18 ° C) water in order to avoid the disease of its downy mildew.

Weeding. Avoid the appearance of weeds, they create high humidity and conditions for fungal diseases. Weeds are best removed from moist soil when they reach a height of 3-5 cm. Onions grown in unweed areas have a thick, succulent neck, which makes it difficult to store.

Loosening. Every two weeks the bed is loosened, especially after watering and rains, to maintain good air access to the root system. Loosening is usually carried out to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Top dressing. During the growing season, 2-3 additional feeding can be done.

The second feeding is given 12-15 days after the first. In 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska or organic fertilizer "Fertility" and consume 3 liters per 1 m 2.

The third feeding is carried out when a bulb with a diameter of a walnut is formed: 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of the Fertilizer fertilizer per 10 liters of water at the rate of Zl per 1 m 2.

Treatment. When the leaves (feather) reach a length of 12-15 cm, it is necessary to make preventive treatment against fungal diseases (downy mildew). In 10 liters of water, 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap are diluted, sprayed over the leaves at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 m 2.

The most effective method against downy mildew is treatment with the drug "Alett" fungicide, but it is prohibited to treat onions used for feathers.

HARVESTING AND STORING CHICKEN ONION

The onion is ready for harvesting when the formation of young leaves has stopped, their lodging has begun, the bulbs have fully formed and acquired the characteristic color of the variety.

Onions are harvested from mid-August to early September. If you are late with harvesting, then after 8-10 days onion growth resumes, and such bulbs are unsuitable for storage.

Cleaning should be done in dry weather. Dig the onion with a pitchfork and carefully pull out the leaves from the soil. The soil remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand, and not shaken off, since the bulbs rot from mechanical damage during storage. Then the onion is laid out in an open sunny place to dry for 12-15 days.

After that, the leaves are cut, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. The cut onions are dried again at a higher temperature (30-35 ° C) for 5-6 days. This drying will reduce the number of bulbs affected by neck rot.

Onions can be braided into braids if the leaves are not diseased. With this storage method, the leaves do not need to be cut, but they should be thoroughly dried before braiding. Onions can also be placed in baskets or boxes of 10-12 kg and stored at room temperature in a dry place at home.

Bow (from Latin Állium) is a very popular garden culture in our country. The plant belongs to the genus of biennial and perennial herbaceous plants from the subfamily Onions, or Alliaceae. To get a high, high-quality onion crop, you need to carry out a number of measures to prepare this vegetable crop for planting.

Head seating preparation

Pre-planting preparation allows you to protect the onion crop from the main adverse weather conditions and disease.

Then the onion sets should be warmed up and the following activities should be carried out:

• the seedlings must be dry and free from visible damage or rot;
• in early spring, pour warm water on the bulbs for about 15-20 minutes;
• soak the seedlings in complex fertilizer overnight.

Without the use of warming and soaking measures, the onion is not very suitable for growing on the head and will go into a feather or arrow. You can also preheat the prepared planting material for two weeks at a temperature of 18-20 ° C, and then the temperature regime should be increased to 29-30 ° C and the bulbs should be heated for eight hours. Without preparation, it will not be possible to get a high-quality turnip, and the plants will not have resistance to infections. A good result is obtained by growing family onions, which in each nest can form several presentation bulbs at once. Onions can be grown in a two-year culture, with pre-growing seedlings, in an annual culture from seeds, as well as in an annual culture with preliminary growing of seedlings.

Bow: preparing for planting (video)

Feather landing preparation

If necessary, planting onions on a feather should also be used to soak the planting material correctly and in a timely manner. Usually, soaking is carried out in the following solutions in composition:

• soaking onion sets for 10 hours in a solution of complex fertilizers for growing vegetables at the rate of 1 tablespoon per bucket of water;
• the seedlings prepared for planting can be kept for several hours in a saline solution, which will prevent damage from an onion fly;
• in order to prevent fungal infections, pre-sowing soaking is carried out for a quarter of an hour in a solution based on a teaspoon of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water;
• if necessary, copper sulfate can be replaced with a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Before soaking the onion sets, it is necessary to sort out and remove all peeled or too dry husks. At the next stage, the planting material is sorted by size, and then the apical part is trimmed using clean scissors or a knife. After such events, the feather appears as soon as possible and grows more even, without the presence of creases.

Soil and bed preparation

The cultivation of any vegetable crops always begins with the selection of a site for planting. To cultivate onions, you should take a sunny place or place a garden crop in a light partial shade. It is strictly forbidden to plant onions in lowlands or in areas with stagnant moisture in the soil.

To get a head or feather of a high quality onion, you need to properly prepare the beds and the soil itself. Preparing quality soil for growing onions is not difficult. It is enough to adhere to the following recommendations:

• onions need good illumination and wind blowing, which prevents fungal infections;
• onions are a plant of long daylight hours, and with a lack of light, the bulbs can grow small, loose, unsuitable for storage;
• the culture is demanding on soil fertility indicators and is capable of intensively consuming nutrients at the very beginning of the growing season;
• it is very important to place ridges for growing onions in areas represented by soils with a neutral reaction;
• any onions are very demanding on moisture, and with a lack of it, weak development and a premature transition to the dormant stage are observed;
• excessive moisture in the ridges promotes rapid growth and production of juicy, but watery bulbs with poor keeping quality.

Soil preparation at the site must be carried out in advance. As a rule, in the autumn period, with deep digging, about 5-7 kg of humus is introduced per each square meter. A good result is given by the introduction of 8-10 kg of manure per square meter of the planting area. It is recommended to add about one and a half kilograms of fluffy lime for each hundred square meters. Experienced gardeners prefer to plant green manure plants such as mustard, rapeseed or peas at the stage of preparing the soil for cultivating onions. The most suitable precursors for onions are cabbage, cucumbers and tomatoes.

Landing dates and rules

If the choice is made in favor of sowing seeds, then before sowing the ridges should be marked, stepping back from the edge of about 10 cm. Mena are sown in furrows with a distance of one and a half centimeters. Ridges with sowing must be watered and covered with lutrasil. However, most often in the conditions of home gardening, seed is planted in the form of pre-prepared bulbs.

In the first ten days of May, the set should be planted with a depth of 4-5 cm and at a distance of about 8-10 cm from each other. The distance between the rows should be 25-30 cm. To get a feather, you can plant onions in the soil a little denser, with a distance of 5-7 cm between plants. Before winter, it is advisable to sow small oat seedlings that do not form arrows.

In the autumn, it is recommended to sow only the most cold-resistant varieties, such as "Arzamasskiy", "Strigunovskiy", "Danilovskiy" and "Stuttgarten". It is necessary to plant the seedlings on the ridges, where the snow mass melts as early as possible, and there is also no stagnation of moisture, regardless of the season. Autumn planting is carried out in the first decade of October, in not completely cooled soil, immediately before the onset of frost. Immediately after the onset of the first sufficiently strong frosts, it is recommended to cover the planting with spruce branches, which will protect the bulbs from freezing.

How to plant onion sets (video)

Further care of the crop consists in the timely removal of the covering material in spring, the regular removal of any weeds, loosening the soil between the rows, watering and applying fertilizers several times during the growing season. Compliance with agricultural techniques guarantees a high and high-quality harvest of onions in the personal plot.

Onions are an indispensable ingredient in the dishes of the cuisines of most peoples of the world, and in the Slavic one in particular. In addition, plants are often used as medications or prophylactic agents in the fight against diseases, as elements of interior decoration, and in many other cases.

Onions are one of the types of vegetables, it is almost impossible to get a marketable product or products that are ready to eat from seeds. For growing large bulbs, the so-called onion sets are used, which are planted in the spring.

Despite the fact that there are methods of planting onions "before winter", the most successful has proved itself to be a two-year cycle for obtaining marketable bulbs. In the first year, seeds are sown (the so-called "nigella"), in the second - onion sets.

Onion sets are annual vegetable seedlings grown from the seeds of the plant. Most often, spicy varieties are grown from this form of onion. The use of seedlings is also justified on problem soils, for example, sandy.

To obtain high yields, it is necessary to carefully follow the planting scheme, the rules of crop rotation, soil preparation and plant care. Subject to all technologies and proper care, the yield of a vegetable can be up to half a ton from one hundred square meters of a vegetable garden.

Features of soil preparation for planting onion sets

The primary task before planting onion sets is the correct choice of a place for vegetables and a thorough preparation of the site. Compliance with the following rules when choosing and preparing a site will help to get the highest yields:

Important... The looser the soil, the better it allows oxygen and moisture to pass to the roots of the plant, which means that you can count on higher yields.

• an important point in preparing the site for sowing is the introduction of fertilizers: peat-containing substances and organic fertilizers are applied while digging the soil in the fall, mineral fertilizers - in the spring;
• mineral fertilizers are not applied one-time - this can over-saturate the soil with chemical elements and harm the plants: instead, mineral fertilizers are divided into four parts, which are applied throughout the entire growing season of the onion.

Seed preparation

At home, onion sets are recommended store at an ambient temperature of 18 ° C... After removing the seed from the store or purchasing it at a specialized point of sale, in no case should the seed be planted immediately. It is pre-calibrated by removing damaged or empty bulbs and dried.

First, the set is lined with a thin layer in a room with an air temperature of 20 ° C. Here it is dried for 15 to 20 days. After that, the seed should be placed for ten hours in a room in which the air temperature reaches 30-40 ° C. Thanks to this, the growth mechanism is triggered in the plants, which stimulates the growth of onions in early spring.

Advice... In no case should the bulbs be overexposed in a hot environment, since there is a danger of overheating the planting material.

Before planting seedlings in the ground, it is recommended to treat the plants with fertilizer solutions and disinfect them. To do this, use factory drugs like Gumisol, Zircon or Rosta-1. You can independently compose a mixture of mineral fertilizers, including potassium salts, superphosphates and nitrogen fertilizers. The planting material is kept for five hours in an aqueous solution of one of these mixtures.

Before planting seed, it must be disinfected for this, the bulbs are placed in a solution of copper sulfate (one teaspoon of the substance per ten liters of water) or in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Favorable weather conditions for planting onion sets

The calendar dates for planting onion sets in the soil in different regions of the country differ significantly. But even locally established times for planting bulbs ultimately depend on the weather conditions at a particular time period. So, if the soil has not heated up to + 12 ° C, then you should not even think about planting seed.

It should be remembered that too early planting is fraught with a slowdown in the development of the root system... In the future, this threatens with a decrease in yield - after forcing the green mass of the plant, the bulb will no longer have resources for its own growth.

Delayed planting of onion sets in the soil can also affect the yield - in late spring the soil becomes dry, and the roots of the plant experience a large moisture deficit.

Planting onion sets

Before planting onion sets, the selected and carefully prepared area of ​​soil is leveled, removing foreign objects, debris, leaves and large clods of earth. It is advisable to pre-outline the site, indicating the beds on which the planting material will be planted in the future. This will help to correctly calculate the required amount.

A fairly common mistake when planting onion sets among amateur gardeners is the introduction of fresh manure during planting. This should not be done so as not to provoke infection of the onion with pathogens.

The optimal distance between the plant beds is 20 cm - such a row spacing makes it possible to properly care for the plants, does not create inconveniences during processing, and if desired, greens can be sown in them (most often dill is used for this purpose).

The distance between the bulbs in the bed depends solely on the size of the seed itself, therefore, before planting, it is carefully sorted based on the diameter of the plants. So, between sets with a diameter of less than 1 cm, the distance should be from 4 to 5 cm.With an increase in the diameter of the seed for every 5 mm, add 1 cm to the distance between adjacent plants.This scheme of planting onion sets allows the most optimal use of the garden area, and, at the same time, fully provide each plant with the necessary nutrients.

Note... It should be noted that smaller bulbs can be planted a few days earlier, but sets with a head diameter of more than two centimeters should not be planted to obtain marketable bulbs - such plants are used for forcing green onion feathers. Since they cannot form a full-fledged bulb by the end of the growing season.

At the end of the sowing work, it is recommended to cover the resulting plot with a layer of mulch or artificial coatings (film, roofing material). This will further increase the temperature in the soil of onion growth and retain the moisture necessary for the plants. The cover is removed after most of the planted bulbs have emerged.

By carefully following all the steps described above for sowing onion sets and then taking sufficient care of the plants during their growth, you can count on high yields of the vegetable.

How to prepare a bed for onions?

A bed of onion sets is prepared in the fall. All plant residues are removed, sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon of honey oxychloride (4 0 g "Khom" per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per 1 m 2. it is good to throw snow off it. All this is done for good freezing of the soil. As a rule, in such a bed next year, onions are less damaged by diseases and pests.

In the spring, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the garden, depending on the composition of the soil.

Loamy soil - for 1 m 2 add 3-4 kg of humus, 4-5 kg ​​of peat, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea.

Clay soil - 6 kg of humus and peat are applied per 1 m 2, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and granulated "Agricola for onions and garlic", 1 teaspoon of urea.

Peat soil - per 1 m 2 add 5 kg of humus or compost, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and nitrophosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea.

Sandy soil - for 1 m 2, add a bucket of humus or compost, peat, 2 buckets of loamy or clay soil, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated Agricola for onions and garlic.

The bed is dug to the depth of a bayonet shovel, leveled with a rake, slightly compacted and spilled with a growth stimulator "Energen": 2 capsules per 10 liters of water, spilling 3 liters per 1 m 2.

The prepared bed is covered with a clean film for 5-6 days and left until the onion sets are planted.

When to plant sevok and other onions?

In southern climatic zones, onion sets are planted in the third decade of April, in other regions - in the first decade of May.

It must be remembered that it is impossible to plant onion sets in unheated soil (below 12 ° C): it can go to the arrow. And you can't be late with planting, otherwise, due to a lack of moisture and high temperature, the onion will slowly develop.

Before planting the bulbs, the bed is marked: grooves are made 4 cm deep at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. Pour water at room temperature (20 ° C) at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2 from a watering can with a fine strainer.

The bulbs are planted in grooves at a distance of 8–10 cm from each other and covered so that the soil layer above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2–2.5 cm, since with a deeper planting, ripening will be delayed, and the bulb itself will change shape. When planted shallowly, the bulbs are exposed and their growth is suspended, especially in hot, dry weather.

Shoots appear 5–6 days after planting. Caring for turnip onions consists of watering, weeding, loosening, feeding and processing.

How to water onions correctly and how often do you need to do it?

Onions are picky about watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July).

In May, in dry, hot weather, it is watered every week, consuming 6-10 liters of water per 1 m 2. In June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m 2, in the first half of July - every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m 2. If the second half of July is hot, then you can water it 1-2 times in 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m 2. Water from a watering can carefully so as not to break the leaves. Watering is completely stopped 15-18 days before the onion is harvested. In each watering, you can add the growth stimulator "Energen": dilute 1 capsule per 10 liters of water.

Do onions need weeding?

Avoid the appearance of weeds, they create high humidity and favorable conditions for fungal diseases.

Onions grown in weedy areas have a thick, succulent neck, which makes it difficult to store.

Weeds are easier to remove from wet soil when they reach a height of 3–5 cm.

Why do onion leaves dry?

When the leaves of the onion (feather) reach a length of 12–15 cm, it is necessary to do a preventive treatment to protect against fungal diseases (downy mildew). In 10 liters of water, 20 g of copper oxychloride ("Hom") are diluted, sprayed over the leaves at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 m 2.

What are the bows missing?

Onions are responsive to the application of mineral fertilizers. In the initial period of growth, he especially needs nitrogen and potassium, therefore, when the feather reaches a height of 5-6 cm, top dressing is carried out: 2 capsules of the growth stimulator "Energen" are diluted with 10 liters of water and 1 teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate, watering over 3 liters of solution per 1 m 2 by sprinkling. This feeding is repeated after 10 days.

Later, during the formation of the bulb, a second root feeding is carried out, repeating after 12 days: 50 g (1 sachet) of granulated Agricola for onion and garlic and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of organic liquid fertilizer "Effekton-O", consuming 3 liters of solution per 1 m 2, are spilled by sprinkling, immediately after feeding they are watered with water at the rate of 2-3 l / m 2.

How to plant turnip onions before winter?

Sevka bulbs up to 1 cm in size at home until spring are not preserved and almost completely dry out. Therefore, it is better to plant them in the ground before winter, where they will overwinter and at the end of July, without shooting, they will give a good harvest of turnip onions.

How to prepare a winter garden?

The garden bed is made in a well-lit place. The width of the bed is 90-100 cm, the height is 18-20 cm. The soil is cleaned of plant residues, disinfected with a solution of copper oxychloride ("Khom") (40 g per 10 l of water) at the rate of 1 l per 1 m 2, add 3 –4 kg of humus, 5 kg of peat, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 10 0 g of wood ash, dig up everything.

After leveling and compaction of the beds, grooves are made 5 cm deep at a distance of 15 cm. Then the dried shallow sowing is laid out in a groove 3-4 cm apart and covered with peat-humus mixture.

How much attention should be paid to the bow?

Planting onion sets is from the second half of October. All the varieties recommended above are suitable for planting before winter.

Before freezing, a bed with planting onion sets is mulched with peat or sawdust in a layer of up to 2-3 cm in order to keep the bulbs from freezing. In the spring, this bedding is raked so that it does not interfere with the heating of the soil and the emergence of seedlings. In winter, when the air temperature is below –10–12 ° С, it is necessary to add additional snow to the garden bed. In the spring, do not allow water to stagnate in the garden, otherwise this will lead to the soaking of the bulbs.

A well overwintered onion produces friendly shoots. If the plantings turned out to be thickened, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 5–6 cm between them. Plucked plants are used as green onions.

Spring onion care, watering and feeding are described in the section.

Planting small sets before winter makes it possible to get well-ripened bulbs in late July - early August. This onion is better preserved in the winter at home.

How to grow turnip onions from seeds in one season?

Nowadays, gardeners have learned to grow turnip onions from seeds in one year. The secret to a good bulb is sowing early, thickened from seed.

Garden bed preparation. A garden for sowing seeds begins to be prepared in the fall. For 1 m, 3-5 kg ​​of humus are introduced, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of dolomite flour or chalk.

Seed preparation for sowing. To make seedlings appear faster, the seeds are soaked for 2-3 days in a solution with a temperature of 23-25 ​​° C of the root stimulator "Kornerost": 1 tablet (capsule) is diluted for 2-3 liters. Then the seeds are slightly dried until flowable and sown.

Sowing seeds. Seeds are evenly sown into prepared grooves to a depth of 1.5–2 cm, covered with soil and compacted. After sowing, the garden bed is watered with warm (25–30 ° C) water from a watering can with a fine strainer at the rate of 3-4 liters per 1 m 2. To obtain early shoots, the bed is covered with a covering material, which is removed immediately, as soon as single onion shoots appear. Sowing onion seeds is carried out from April 20 to 25.

Onion care. When shoots appear, they begin to thin out, leaving 3-4 cm between the plants in a row. There is no need to rush with thinning, because you can also harvest green onions from the garden.

Watering, top dressing, loosening are described in the subsection Growing onion sets from seeds.

From mid-July, they stop watering the onions. After the leaves have lodged, the bulbs are pulled out and dried under a canopy until the leaves and roots are dry. Leaves and roots that come off easily are a symptom of well-dried bulbs.

If some bulbs are not ripe and have a thick, juicy neck, they are not left for storage, but eaten.

From seeds, not only onion-turnips can grow, but also onions, and onions, that is, large, medium and small bulbs, therefore it is necessary to sort it.

Large bulbs (over 4 cm) are stored for winter storage for food purposes. Medium bulbs (samples, 3-4 cm) can be planted in boxes for forcing green onions, and small bulbs (sets, up to 3 cm) are stored until spring planting on a turnip.

The most suitable varieties for this are Strigunovsky, Odintsovsky, Myachkovsky, Carmen, Kasatik .

When to harvest and how to store onions?

The onion is ready for harvesting when the formation of young leaves has stopped, lodging has begun, the bulbs have fully formed and acquired the color characteristic of this variety. Onions are harvested from mid-August to early September.

If you are late with harvesting, then after 8-10 days onion growth resumes and such bulbs are not suitable for storage.

Cleaning should be done in dry weather. Dig the onion with a pitchfork and carefully pull the leaves out of the soil. The soil remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand and not shaken off, since the bulbs rot from mechanical damage. Then the onions are laid out in an open sunny place to dry for 12-15 days.

After that, the leaves are cut off, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. The cut onions are dried again at a higher temperature (30-35 ° C) for 5-6 days. This drying will reduce the number of bulbs affected by cervical rot. It is advisable to powder the onion with chalk.

Onions can be braided or placed in baskets or boxes of 10-12 kg and stored at room temperature in a dry place.

Sevok, planted before winter, is also grown on ridges so that melt water does not flood it in spring. The ridges are filled with humus 3-5 kg ​​/ m 2, mineral fertilizers and ash from mineral fertilizers, add 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated "Agricola for onions and garlic" and 1 cup of wood ash.

Onion sets are planted in the first half of October. Planting depth - 3-4 cm, distance between rows - 18 cm, between bulbs in a row - 4-5 cm. Ridges are mulched with humus or peat compost with a layer of 2-2.5 cm. Top them well cover with dry sawdust or cover with old, but clean covering material in several layers.

What are the most productive varieties of onion sets?

In Central Russia, the most common are acute and semi-sharp varieties that are grown from seedlings, while it takes 2 years to obtain turnip onions.

Stuttgarter Riesen - a fruitful, mid-season variety, from germination to the onset of technical ripeness - 90-110 days. The bulbs are flat-round, of excellent spicy taste, weighing 80–100 g. Small-breasted variety. Possesses increased resistance to downy mildew. Stores well.

Danilovsky 301 - mid-season (100-110 days) variety. Small-nested, forms in the nest one, less often two, semi-sharp onions. Bulbs are flat and round-flat, weight up to 150 g, medium density. Dry scales are dark red with a purple tint, juicy - light purple. Keeping quality is good. Salad variety.

Odintsovets - grows in an annual culture. Mid-season variety. Small (1–2 bulbs per nest). The bulbs are round-flat, dense, weighing 60–80 g. The outer scales are golden yellow, the inner ones are white. The taste is semi-sharp. Productivity - 1.2-1.6 kg / m 2. The shelf life is good.

The Silver Prince - medium late, very productive variety. The bulb is rounded, with dry scales of a beautiful silvery color, with an average weight of 50 g. The variety is convenient for harvesting with herbs and for "turnip". It is used fresh, for drying and storage for 3-4 months.

Exibition (Holland seeds) - very large, sweet-tasting bulbs. A mid-late variety for producing turnip onions in annual culture (better grown through seedlings). The period from germination to harvest is 130 days. Oval bulb, weighing 170–550 g (up to 800 g). Dry scales are straw-yellow, juicy - white. Two-pronged. The taste is sweet. Salad appointment. The seeds are processed with thiram and do not require soaking.

Arzamas - old Russian variety, mid-season; medium-sized (2–3 medium-sized bulbs weighing 60–90 g; round-cubed or rounded with a yellow color of dry outer scales).

Bessonovsky - early ripening, medium-nesting (3-5 small bulbs weighing 35-65 g). The bulbs are round-flat, the outer dry scales are yellow, the inner ones are white.

Annual Hawk - early ripening, small breeding, semi-sharp taste. The bulbs are round or flat-round, yellow or yellow-brown in color.

Rostov onion - early ripening, multi-nested (3–6 bulbs). The bulbs are flat, yellow with a pink tinge, weighing 40–80 g. The taste is spicy.

Strigunovsky local - one of the most common varieties of onions. Early ripening, small breeding, spicy taste. Bulbs are round, light yellow, weighing 100-120 g.

The most famous southern varieties (all late-ripening and small-breeding).

Spanish-313 (salad purpose); Luhansk (medium pungency); Kaba (taste is closer to sweet); Karatalsky (semi-sharp taste).

Onion

Batun onion is a perennial highly branching plant. Batun onions are grown everywhere, but in small quantities. Outwardly, the onion is little different from the onion, but it has more powerful tubular leaves, its bulb is small, cylindrical, turning into a false stem. In one place it grows well up to 5 years. Place it after cucumber, tomato, potato, green crops. For one-year use, the batun is sown in the summer, in June, and harvested in the spring of next year. Batun greens contain a lot of vitamin C. Greens are added as a seasoning to various dishes, fresh vegetable salads with vegetable oil, sour cream, mayonnaise and other spices are also prepared. The onion is used in folk medicine to lower blood pressure, improve the elasticity of capillary vessels.

Under what weather conditions can you sow a bunch of onions?

Batun is a frost-resistant plant that is grown in open ground even in the Arctic Circle. It requires a lot of moisture for its growth. The onion is a long day plant. A short day promotes increased leaf regrowth, but inhibits arrowing. Grows best on light soils rich in humus. Before sowing, the soil is dug onto a full bayonet of a shovel, humus or compost is applied at the rate of 5-6 kg / m 2, as well as mineral fertilizers - 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and urea, before sowing, spill the garden with a warm (30-40 ° C) solution of the growth stimulator Agricola Aqua: 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, consuming 3 liters per 1 m 2.

What are the requirements of the onion-batuna to the site?

The seeds are pre-soaked in a warm solution of the growth stimulator "Energen": 1 capsule for 3 liters of water for 24 hours. Then the seeds, without washing, are slightly dried to flowability and the grooves for sowing seeds are watered with the remaining solution. Then they are sown on a ridge with row spacing of 18–20 cm. The sowing depth is 1–2 cm, the seeding rate is 1.5 g / m 2. Crops are mulched with humus with a layer of 1–1.5 cm, covered with non-woven material on top, and then compacted a little. Seedlings appear in 11-14 days.

Seedlings are watered, weeded, fed with ash and a solution of complete mineral fertilizer, and the aisles are loosened. During thinning, a distance of 2–3 cm is left between the plants. The onion can accumulate nitrates, so you should refuse to feed it with nitrogen fertilizers.

During the summer period, the onion is fed at an early stage of plant development (see section Tiered bow). Water it 3-4 times at 10-18 l / m 2. After watering and heavy rains, loosening is necessary.

With early sowing and good development, already in the first summer, 1-2 harvests can be done, in the second summer - 3-4. After each cut, the plants are watered and fed with liquid organic fertilizers.

What varieties of onions are the most productive?

The onion has three subspecies - Chinese, Japanese and Russian... The latter is characterized by high winter hardiness and high content of ascorbic acid.

In Russia, varieties of the Russian subspecies are widespread - early maturing peninsular Salad 35 and April (does not freeze even in snowless winters). The bulb is elongated, reduced, massive. The outer scales are dark yellow, the leaves growing in late April - early May are large, tender, juicy, up to 50 cm high, bright green, do not coarse for a long time, the weight of one plant is 200-300 g, as well as late-ripening spicy May (for open ground), does not freeze even in snowless winters at -45 ° С. The bulb is elongated, not massive, slightly expressed, the outer dry scales are dark brown. The branchiness is strong, the weight of the plant is 200–340 g. Ready for harvesting occurs on May 10–15 and lasts until June 5–10.

Slime onion

Perennial plant, excellent honey plant. Forms flat succulent linear light and dark green leaves up to 40 cm long and up to 4 cm wide with a mild taste and garlic odor. Its bulb is false, 1.5–2.5 cm thick. The plant blooms from the second year of life, forming light lilac inflorescences with a pink tint. Slime onion is found almost throughout the territory of Russia. Cold-resistant plant, tolerates frosts down to –40 ° С. It also hibernates beyond the Arctic Circle. Plants are resistant to diseases, downy mildew.

Slime grows in one place up to 6 years. Good precursors for it are cucumber, tomato, cabbage, early potatoes, and annual herbs other than onions.

Why is slime onion useful?

Slime onions are grown for delicate, almost non-coarse, tasty leaves that can be eaten throughout the growing season - from early spring to late autumn.

Plants are widely used as a seasoning for various dishes and for preparing salads. Especially useful for anemia. It has anti-inflammatory and vasodilatory effects.

What are the requirements for a slime onion planting site?

Slime is picky about moisture, it is grown in open ground and in a greenhouse, watered every week at 10-12 liters per 1 m 2. A good harvest is successful on fertile loamy and peaty soils, well-rotted manure, humus or compost up to 6 kg / m2 are introduced into the soil, in the spring, when digging, mineral fertilizers are added in 1 tbsp. spoon "Agricola for onions and garlic" and urea per 1 m 2. All fertilizers are sealed to a depth of 12-15 cm. Slime onions can be more juicy and tender if watered 3-4 times starting from the beginning of summer with an interval of 15 days with a solution of the growth stimulator "Energen": dilute 2 capsules for 10 liters of water, water 3 l per 1 m 2.

How do slime onions reproduce?

Slime onions are propagated by dividing the bush and seeds. The latter can be obtained in the second year, and especially a lot - in the third.

Slime is sown from early April to mid-May on a garden bed to a depth of 0.5-1 cm with a row spacing of 30 cm, between plants in a row - 15 cm. When propagating by dividing the bush, they are planted in May or August.

How to improve the germination of a slime onion?

During the summer period 3-4 loosening is carried out to a depth of 4-5 cm and mandatory watering in dry weather, double feeding in the 1st decade of June: 2 tbsp. Of water are diluted for 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer of universal "Rossa" and 1 teaspoon of urea, nitrophoska, solution consumption of 3 liters per 1 m 2.

The second feeding is repeated after the first cutting of the leaves: 2 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta", consumption - up to 4 liters of solution per 1 m 2.

To accelerate regrowth in the early spring period, film covers are used, which allows the first cutting of leaves to be carried out 10-15 days earlier.

Cutting begins in early May, when the leaves reach a length of 20-30 cm. Collecting is repeated 5-7 times over the summer. And at the end of October they are completed.

Chives

Chives, or chives, are a perennial plant. Chives forms a highly branching bush more than 35 cm high. Its leaves are tubular, narrow, bright green. The bulbs are small, 0.5–0.8 cm in diameter, adhere tightly to each other and form a continuous sod. Seeds are black, remain viable 2-3 times a year. Chives is a moisture-loving, long-day plant. Differs in high frost resistance.

Usually, onion sets are planted in the spring, when the weather is already warm and the soil has warmed up enough - approximately the beginning - mid-May (depending on the weather and the region). In the meantime, you have time to prepare the garden.

In the second half of April, it is worth going out to the garden and, after looking around, determine the most illuminated area, which will be sunny most of the day without shade from neighboring trees, fences or buildings. And it is better if this place is on a hill, and not in a lowland, where rain and melt waters often stagnate even on sandy soils. Further, on one of the fine days, when the earth dries up a little and stops sticking, you can start studying the soil. It is enough to dig a few times to approximately determine the type of soil:

• lump is heavy and sticks strongly to the shovel - clay soil (adding 2-3 buckets of coarse sand and peat, you can improve soil drainage and make it suitable for onions)
• if the earth is easily knocked off by a shovel - most likely sandy loam soil or loam (both options are quite acceptable for cultivation);

• but when the soil simply crumbles, without forming lumps and lumps, it is sandstone (compost or humus must be added, because such organic matter not only provides planting with nutrients, but also helps to retain moisture in the ground).

The acidity of the soil can also be determined without special means and preparations. Look around what weeds are growing on the site, you noticed - horsetail, horse sorrel, plantain - these are acidic soils, and for the successful cultivation of onions, it is worth adding chalk or lime (about 1-2 kg per 1 square meter of land) to the allocated area. If nettle, clover, wood lice, wheatgrass are more common, then these are slightly acidic soils, but the common bindweed, shepherd's purse, adonis or euphorbia speak of neutral acidity.

Even novice gardeners are aware of the need for soil fertility. But organics recommended in specialized articles: fresh manure, rotted mullein, and even the contents of compost heaps - garden beginners are often puzzled: "Where to get all this and how to work with it?" Therefore, let's do it easier: if you doubt the fertility of the soil - before planting onion sets and digging up a garden bed, prepare fertilizers yourself.

Chopped (without roots and seeds) weeds are suitable as organic matter - the same nettle, dandelion, tansy or shepherd's purse. You can also buy a ready-made concentrate of natural peat-based fertilizer - Humate, which, according to the instructions, is also scattered before digging. And as a mineral supplement, purchase nitroammofoska - a complex preparation containing both the necessary nitrogen, potassium, and phosphates.

It is impossible to introduce simultaneously means that reduce the acidity of the soil (wood ash, chalk, lime) and organic matter, since their interaction leads to a decrease in nitrogen in the soil, which is so necessary for growing crops. It is better to carry out these events in two stages - in autumn and spring.

Having dug up the area chosen under the onion, you need to form a garden bed. Its size depends on the planting method and the number of sets. Following the advice of experienced gardeners, it makes sense to organize mixed plantings, alternating rows of onions with carrots, beets or berry plantings. And such cultivation is really useful: in addition to saving space on the site, the plants will protect each other from pests and prevent the spread of diseases. And for a novice gardener - this is an opportunity to try your hand and grow several crops at once without unnecessary "labor feats" and care.

Preparation of planting material

Growing onions from seedlings is undoubtedly the most convenient, efficient and fastest way to harvest. It is quite simple to purchase planting material - sets are sold of various varieties, sizes, shapes. At the same time, the expected yield of turnip bulbs may differ in weight, taste, expected shelf life and their use. And if everyone has their own taste preferences, then the size is worth mentioning: qualified gardeners prefer to buy a smaller set, because in this case the number of bulbs in the unit of weight or volume sold will be greater. But on the other hand, under unfavorable conditions or inadequate care, it is difficult to grow full-fledged, large bulbs from such "small fry", especially if the experience is not enough. Therefore, we recommend for beginners to plant larger sevok so as not to be disappointed in gardening matters at the first attempts.

Before planting an onion, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures aimed at enhancing its vitality and preventing diseases.

1. Sevok is heated in hot water (t 35-40 ° C) with the addition of a pink solution of potassium permanganate or any suitable fungicide (antifungal drugs sold in flower or gardening shops). This will not only kill possible infections, but also reduce the likelihood of "shooting" the bow in the future.
2. Now it is dipped in a salty solution (a glass of salt per liter of water) for 1.5-2 hours so that the pests cannot “feast on” the future harvest.
3. When everything is done, the set must be rinsed. Then, if the bulbs have underdeveloped or too dry roots, they are kept in a rooting stimulator (you can buy a ready-made preparation in the store or make it yourself: for 1 liter of water + 2 tablespoons of honey + 2 tablespoons of aloe juice).

The seed prepared in this way is already sufficiently saturated with moisture, disinfected and ready for the beginning of the growing season. You can start planting according to seeding rates and in pre-marked rows.

Care, watering and feeding before harvesting

In about a week, the first green sprouts will appear on the garden bed, and soon the even rows of the onion will need care. You just have to regularly pull out weeds and, in dry weather, water the garden.

As a top dressing, if you did not manage to "get hold of" the infusion of mullein or bird droppings, you can use the same that you introduced into the soil before planting.

Crushed greens (cut grass, tops, cut young twigs, weeds, even with seeds) are poured into any container, poured to the top with water and left to ferment for 5-7 days. After that, the infusion is filtered and added during watering at the rate of 1 liter per bucket of water. If there is no time to mess around with grass, then you can use organic Humate powder as fertilizer according to the instructions. That's all the simple care.

Two weeks before the expected harvest (when the green part of the onion turned yellow and began to lie down), all watering is stopped, and the drying soil is carefully raked off with a hoe or hands so that the bulbs ripen in the sun.

In order not to miss the moment of cleaning, you need to check the condition of the turnip - pull out one and look at its roots - they should begin to dry out. But if new white roots have appeared, it means that the plant is entering the next growing season, which cannot be allowed, because the taste of the onion is lost and its keeping quality decreases.

The harvested crop is transferred to the shade under a canopy, where there is good air circulation. There the bulbs remain until the greenery, roots are completely dry and dense yellowish scales are formed. When the onions are dry, they are stored in the basement or pantry.