Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

What to do if the room has an old wooden floor that is impractical to paint or varnish? If the boards are wobbly and? You can resort to a labor-intensive and expensive method - tearing off the old coating, making a new one, or laying fresh ones. But there is another, more practical, faster and cheaper solution - laying OSB on a wooden floor.

This method has its own nuances, which are taken into account during OSB installation. Looking ahead, it is worth saying that the basis of the technology is proper preparation grounds. Below is detailed guide, following which will allow you to achieve excellent result in terms of leveling the surface of the old wooden floor and subsequent installation of decorative coverings: laminate, linoleum, etc.

Tools and materials for work

The list of necessary devices is minimal:

• nail crowbar;
• hammer;
• hammer drill, drill, drill bits;
• screwdriver;
• a large bubble or laser level (with a second tool it will be more convenient to identify irregularities).

Necessary materials:

• OSB board;
• fasteners – hardened self-tapping screws with a length of at least 45 mm;
• washers for screws (their presence is desirable, but not required).

Choosing this method of “reanimating” old wooden floors, you need to have an idea about the material used for these purposes in order to choose it correctly. The result of the alignment directly depends on this.

Characteristics of OSB boards

OSB is a construction analogue of chipboard. These slabs are more durable and are perfectly adapted for finishing. The material appeared on the market relatively recently. OSB is made from wood chips, which are laid in 3 layers. They are glued together with special resin-based compounds. In this case, the layer in the middle is laid perpendicular to the other 2. Due to this, the resistance of the material to loads is formed.

When marked, this parameter is indicated by a number. The lower the value, the lower the resistance to loads and destructive factors such as humidity. For example, index 2 means that the OSB board is not moisture resistant and cannot withstand intense long-term loads. And the number 4 indicates that the product can be used as a ceiling that will not collapse even when exposed to moisture.

The material for laying on the floor is selected based on the mentioned designations in order to form a smooth rough surface. You should not skimp on the quality of the OSB board. This may result in the need to lay an additional layer, which is expensive and inconvenient. The best option is OSB 3 board.

The question often arises: “Do I need a substrate for OSB?” From a practical point of view, no. The wood itself is great thermal insulation material, and if you consider that it is laid on wooden boards, then a backing is not needed. But sometimes it is still used to achieve the maximum possible soundproofing effect.

Preparing the base

Executed correctly preparatory stage- this is more than half the success of floor leveling work. First, a thorough investigation is carried out wooden surface. This is done using a bubble or laser level. All protruding and loose parts are marked, this will make it easier to strengthen them.

The next step is to securely fix the boards. Some experts recommend doing this using dowels, but a more reliable option would be to pull loose elements with self-tapping screws to the joists. The old coating must be secured as securely as possible. To do this, you can use several fasteners in one area. The ideal result is when the “walking” floor fragments are recessed or are level with the rest.

Some recommend cleaning old layer paint with a sander. You need to know that this is only necessary in areas where there are obvious swellings paint coating. Actually availability old paint not critical, you can lay slabs on it too. In this case, it is necessary to remove all large contaminants.

Attention! The main part of the preparatory process is fixing the old wooden covering. It is this stage that should be given special attention.

Preparing OSB for installation

Before fixing the slabs, they must first be laid on the floor in the room. In this case, 3 requirements must be met:

• There should be no straight cross-shaped seams, for which the slabs are laid staggered with an offset of 50%;

• The gap between the wall and the slabs must be at least 10 mm;
• The plates should not be adjacent to each other. Minimum clearance between them – 3 mm.

Attention! The slots are needed to avoid the slabs “creeping” over each other and deformation of the decorative flooring. This occurs due to the expansion of the material due to changes in humidity.

Laying process

After completing all preparatory work all that remains is to tighten the plates to the old one with self-tapping screws wooden covering and fill out construction foam gap between OSB and wall. After the foam has dried, it is trimmed flush with the flooring.

The slabs are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter every 20–30 cm, but this distance can be reduced. Some experts recommend preparing the holes first, but using a screwdriver can quickly and efficiently tighten screws without pre-drilling.

So, what is creaking and why does it occur, we discussed in the article “?”. And in this article you will find the answer to the question: if The floors are creaking, what should I do??

As mentioned in the first article, wooden floor creaks over time, even laid in compliance with all the subtleties of technology. The creaking appears as a consequence of the weakening of the joints of wooden elements, therefore, in order for the creaking to stop, it is necessary to securely fix all the elements.

Most best result You will get it if you open up the floors and re-install them. In this case, it is also possible to eliminate such a design flaw as insufficient lag pitch. Joists in wooden floors should be laid in increments of 0.4 m, but very often in houses built from the 50s to the 80s of the last century this requirement was not met. As a result, the deflection of the boards increases, the load on the joints and joints increases, and wooden floor creaks, and creaking appears much earlier than in floors laid in compliance with the technology. The second serious drawback that can be eliminated by re-lining is the insufficient thickness of the floorboards (less than 40 mm). In this case, you will either have to spend money on new boards for covering, or reduce the pitch of the lag. When laying boards, leave a small gap (1 - 2 mm) between them to avoid squeaking.

It is also very effective to use geotextiles - fabric pads. Geotextile covers the entire surface of the logs. The gasket serves as a shock absorber, which avoids squeaking at the joints of joists and floorboards.

However, very often there is neither the strength nor the ability to completely go through the floors, but it is simply unbearable to hear how the floors are creaking. What to do? There are several alternative ways, allowing you to do without opening. The idea is to fix the boards and joists in a certain position that prevents deformation.

To do this, you can tighten especially creaky places with screws. If the floor boards creak, the boards are attracted to the joists. If the logs creak, they are attracted to the floor slabs. To do this, we drill the flooring and joists all the way to the floor slab. We measure the distance from the top of the flooring to the floor. Add 1 cm to get the length of the screws. The thickness of the screw must be at least 7 mm. The extra centimeter is screwed into the floor slab, providing reliable fastening. The head of the self-tapping screw is buried in the coating.

Also commit wooden elements floors can be done by making a new foundation under the flooring boards. For this purpose, a hole is made in the floorboard large enough to fill the space under the floor with either mortar or polyurethane foam. If the work is done efficiently (the entire space under the floor is filled), then the covering boards have support, they do not sag, and therefore the creaking disappears. When polyurethane foam another plus - additional insulation floor.

Here's another way to answer the question: The floors are creaking, what should I do? Drill out squeaky areas and fill them with talcum powder or graphite mixture. True, such a measure will be temporary, and after some time wooden floor creaks again. You will need to repeat the procedure.

Well, we looked at the main ways to deal with squeaking and answered the question: The floors are creaking, what should I do??

Comfort to your home and see you on the blog.

The unobtrusive creaking of the floor is very often “sung” by romantic natures, as a symbol of warmth and comfort in the village. But in fact, the person who has encountered such a problem knows that floors that creak are irritating and bring discomfort, which develops into damaged nerves, as well as headaches. Therefore, the question: “why does an OSB floor creak” is so relevant today.

Causes of floor squeaks

• Floor creaking may occur when one part OSB sheet rubs against the second one. The reason is the contact of nearby elements or the slabs rubbing against the joists. When correct arranged floors, the squeak usually may not appear for several years. However, OSB made from wood, in its own way natural characteristics It does not tolerate high humidity very well. IN summer time air humidity rises and the material swells slightly, absorbing a certain amount of water. During the cold season, the air becomes drier, so the slabs shrink. In this case, the geometry of the material changes, since OSB warps. A couple of such cycles of drying and then swelling cause gaps to appear between the slabs, as well as between the joists and OSB. As a result, a characteristic creak appears.
• The second reason why OSB floors can creak is the gaskets under the joists. Over time, they crumble or sag a little, which means that the slabs begin to move slightly across the surface. Naturally, an unpleasant creak appears.
• If you remember what material OSB is made of, the creaking will be felt most of all if it is spruce and pine boards. The reason is the softness of wood types, which absorb a lot of moisture. To prevent floors from squeaking, it is necessary to use OSB made from dense wood species: ash, maple, cedar, and so on. The thickness of the material should be about 40 mm, which also minimizes warping.
• The floor can creak even if it has been laid with due care technological standards. Appears unpleasant sound as a result of the articulation of OSB boards, and in order for it to stop, all the material must be well fixed. In this case, it is best to open the floors and re-install OSB. This way you will eliminate the disadvantages in the design, after which the creaking will go away on its own. In addition, there are other ways to eliminate squeaking without having to disassemble the entire floor, for example, attach joists and slabs in a certain position, but in such a way as to prevent deformation.

Construction materials from the Zastroechka online store can be found in the ten largest cities of Ukraine at the best prices. For example.

Applicable laying OSB on a wooden floor when repairing tongue and groove flooring, to reinforce a subfloor or to provide a continuous layer when laying small-format cladding (e.g. tiles, PVC tiles, parquet).

Although the quality of oriented strand board is superior to that of chipboard, this construction material not suitable as a finishing floor covering:

Therefore, OSB is used more often as a subfloor:

In this case, you need to know how to properly attach OSB sheets to floorboards/joists and use offset seams in adjacent rows.

There are several types of oriented strand boards:

• OSB-2 – only for dry rooms;
• OSB-3 – can be used in rooms with high humidity;
• OSB-4 – for load-bearing structures.

Important! Since the subfloor has low maintainability, it is prohibited to use OSB-2 in it. The slabs are additionally treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing material.

The main characteristics of oriented strand boards are:

• density – 630 kg/m³;
• thermal conductivity – 0.13 W/m*K;
• linear expansion – 0.15% at a humidity of 70%;
• straightness – 0.6 mm/m;
• the perpendicularity of the opposite sides of the sheet is within 3 mm;
• thickness deviation – 0.3 – 0.8 mm (ground, untreated, respectively).

Advice! Manufacturers produce slabs different sizes, which must be taken into account when purchasing in order to reduce cutting waste for specific dimensions and room configurations.

Installation technology

To lay it down correctly sheet material over an existing plank floor, the following conditions must be met:

Important! When laying parquet, PVC tiles, other small format claddings, the screw heads must be puttied.

Depending on the type of finishing floor covering OSB boards focus on wooden floor not the same:

• for small format decorative materials It should be ensured that the seams of tiles and PVC tiles do not coincide with the joints of OSB boards;
• when choosing laminate, tongue and groove, decking or parquet boards rows OSB is better lay across the direction of long claddings of the finishing layer or at an angle of 45 degrees for a diagonal layout (relevant in rooms with defects in the geometry of the walls).

Advice! On OSB it is allowed to apply a screed made of DSP or self-leveling floor. However, the surface of the oriented strand board must be pre-treated with a waterproofing material to avoid leaks into the lower floor and swelling of the structural material itself.

Finish flooring repair

The main problem with plank flooring is a floorboard or several boards, which develop a transverse “hump” during periodic changes in humidity or during drying. This leads to an increase in the repair budget:

In other words, OSB with a thickness of 22 mm or more should be used. This problem can be solved by preliminary grinding or scraping of the base:

• a grinder or sander will smooth out the “waves”;
• the contact area of ​​the subfloor layers will sharply increase;
• You can get by with oriented strand boards of smaller thickness.

However, this is not always possible when the existing floor covering is thin.

OSB subfloor top layer

• provide a level base for the floor covering;
• increase spatial rigidity and strength of the base;
• reduce labor and material consumption of work.

Unlike floorboards, self-tapping screws are screwed into OSB boards strictly vertically. When the hardware is tilted, a change in geometry and warping of the material over time may occur.

The main problems arise when opposite walls diverge (trapezoid instead rectangular shape premises). In this case, it is necessary to mark the existing wooden floor in order to trim only the slabs of the first row:

Thus, the OSB structural material is suitable both for creating the top layer of a subfloor and for repairing a finished floor covering made of tongue-and-groove boards if dismantling this cladding for some reason is not practical in the room. When choosing an oriented strand board, the labor intensity of the work is reduced, House master makes do with the existing arsenal of tools.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers by email with prices from construction crews and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Wooden floors in a private home lose their presentable appearance over time. Numerous layers of paint are cracking and peeling at the edges. And because of this, often even a newly painted surface looks sloppy. To tidy up such a floor, you have to completely clean the boards, treat the wood, and then periodically paint it again.

Therefore, when carrying out the next renovation, many homeowners make a different decision. Specifically: lay one of the modern decorative coverings on top of the wooden floor - laminate, parquet board, linoleum or carpet.

To implement such an idea, it is necessary that the base of the floor is suitable for laying a decorative covering. That is, it was perfect flat surface, verified in horizontal plane, without protrusions, “ladders”, sagging areas. This can be achieved OSB installation on a wooden floor.

Characteristics of OSB boards

General information about OSB boards

Unique physical and mechanical characteristics, with relatively affordable price, make OSB boards increasingly popular in various fields of construction. With the help of this material, floors can be perfectly leveled and laid, and with minimal effort, low costs and saving time. In addition, even a home owner inexperienced in the art of construction can handle the installation of slabs on the surface on his own.

Before studying the technology of installing OSB boards, it is necessary to briefly consider their characteristics and compare them with other similar materials.

It must be said that oriented strand boards, in some of their technical and operational characteristics superior to other materials of similar purpose. But, due to their design features, they most often cannot be used as floor finishing coating.

Oriented strand boards are made from wood chips laid in several layers in a longitudinal-transverse manner. On the outer layers, chips are usually placed along the length of the slabs, and on the inner layers - across. The layers are bonded together under pressure with polymer resins.

Thanks to this technology for manufacturing OSB boards, they have improved physical and mechanical properties compared to some other similar building materials.

The main characteristics of oriented strand boards are shown in the table:

The characteristic features of OSB boards during their installation and operation can be outlined as follows:

• High moisture resistance. When testing in laboratory conditions, the material was completely immersed in water for 24 hours. As a result, the swelling was only 18÷25%. And at the same time, the slab was not destroyed, and its strength was preserved.
• Durability and long service life. Oriented strand boards can withstand high loads and extreme conditions. Thanks to the multilayer structure of the material, the plates hold fasteners well.
• Easy installation of large-format sheet material.
• The low cost makes such slabs affordable, even if the amount allocated for repairs is limited.
• OSB boards, manufactured in accordance with technological requirements, consist of 96% natural materials. Therefore, they can be called conditionally environmentally friendly. If slabs are purchased for use in residential premises, you should choose material marked E1.

Thanks to your technical specifications Oriented strand boards are excellent for subflooring under decorative flooring.

• The slabs have a perfectly flat surface. Therefore, they can easily level wooden floors made from ordinary wooden board and deformed during long-term use.
• Each slab covers quite large area floor. The most common sizes are 2240x1220 mm and 2500x1250 mm. And this corresponds to 2.98 and 3.125 square meters. When laying them, the surface will have a minimum number of joints. Therefore, they are ideal for arranging a base for flooring consisting of small-format elements - parquet boards, parquet, vinyl tiles, etc.

• OSB boards have self-supporting ability and stable geometry. Therefore, they can be used as a rough floor covering, fastening them to installed logs or sparsely left floorboards. Thanks to these same qualities, slabs can strengthen the old one, raising it bearing capacity and rigidity.
• Since the slabs consist of several layers of wood, which itself has sound and thermal insulation qualities, a coating of them can to some extent protect the room from extraneous noise. In addition, an additional layer attached to the wooden floor will help reduce heat leakage from the rooms.

• OSB boards are not afraid of moisture, so they can be used to create a subfloor structure on joists. Moreover, by sheathing the logs with them both above and below, it is possible to fill the resulting space with one of the insulating materials.

In the table below, for greater clarity of information, comparative evaluation characteristics various board materials made from wood raw materials and having approximately the same purpose.

Name of the estimated parameters	Rating on a five-point scale
Final average score	2,86	3,00	3,28	3,57
	MDF	Chipboard	Glued plywood	Plates OSB
Strength	2	3	4	4
Resistance to external weather influences	1	2	3	3
Stability of dimensional parameters	2	3	3	3
Weight	2	2	3	3
Manufacturability of machining	3	4	4	5
Manufacturability of surface painting	5	3	3	2
Probability of material defects (delamination, presence of sinuses, knots)	5	4	3	5

Types of OSB boards

Today on construction stores There are several varieties of oriented strand boards available. They differ in characteristics, and therefore in purpose. Therefore, when choosing a material for a specific area of ​​construction or repair, it is necessary to pay attention to this factor.

• OSB-1 - this material has very low moisture resistance and strength, and is not of particular quality. Therefore, such slabs are most often used only for auxiliary work.
• OSB-2 boards are already of much higher quality, but their moisture resistance indicators are still not outstanding. They are, as a rule, intended for use in dry rooms in those structures where contact with moisture is completely excluded.

• OSB-3 is a universal product that can be used for covering surfaces both in dry rooms and in rooms with high humidity. They are used to cover walls, lay them on wooden floors when leveling them, and arrange floors along joists.
• OSB-4 have a thickness of 15÷25 mm and are most often used for the construction of load-bearing structures in rooms with any level of humidity or even in outdoor conditions. They can also be used for flooring as a subfloor.

Plates may have different linear dimensions, but the sizes already mentioned above are more common. However, you need to pay attention to this parameter when purchasing material. This way it will be possible to reduce waste when cutting them.

Preparing the surface for OSB boards

In order for OSB boards to fit perfectly on top of plank floors, and to avoid problems in the form of creaks and sagging during operation, a number of preparatory work must be performed before their installation:

• An inspection of the plank base is carried out to identify rotten boards and joists. Creaking and warped areas of the old flooring are identified.
• In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the insulation, if it is present in the overall “pie” of the floor structure. Thermal insulation should not be damp, settled, damaged by rodents, etc. Sometimes you have to change it too.

You can check the evenness of a wooden floor using building level or rules. The tool is installed on the surface across the boards. If a gap has formed between the boards and the tool, then the floor is deformed and requires repair.

Unevenness in an old wooden floor is by no means uncommon. Over many years of operation, it is not only subjected to high loads, but is also “tested” by changes in humidity. A wet board becomes deformed when it dries - it can bend, wrap itself like a “propeller,” etc.

If the floors are not put in order, then the laid OSB boards will not rest on the entire plank surface, but only on the raised sections of the boards. And what will happen in the end?

At installation work ah, the slabs, which have a small thickness, will take the shape of the irregularities of the plank base. It will not be possible to properly lay laminate or parquet boards on such a surface due to the peculiarities of the interlocking joints.

Oriented Strand Boards large thickness do not have pronounced flexibility, so it will not be possible to press them tightly to an uneven base using fasteners. This means that the coating will begin to creak either immediately after installation, or after some time.

There are two ways to level a plank floor:

• Dismantling deformed boards and replacing them with new, smooth ones. The option can hardly be considered cost-effective, so it is used infrequently.

• Surface scraping using special equipment.

The second option is possible if the boards have risen above the main surface to a not too great height.

If the boardwalk sags, it means that the board used is too thin. Or the logs under it are spaced too far big step. If you use thin OSB boards to level such a floor, they will begin to sag along with the plank base. Well, he’ll start “dancing” with them and decorative coating. In such situations, if the condition of the logs themselves does not cause any complaints, it is necessary to use OSB with a thickness of 18÷22 mm for covering the surface.

However, we repeat, this is only possible if the plank covering is mounted on strong, reliable joists. That is, they also need to be inspected by temporarily removing two or three floorboards.

If the floors were leveled using scraping, then upon completion of the work the boards must be thoroughly cleaned and then covered with a special impregnation with an antiseptic effect.

Installation work for laying OSB on a wooden floor

OSB boards are laid on wooden floors in different ways. This often depends on what kind of flooring will be laid on top.

• For example, if you plan to lay laminate, parquet boards, vinyl tiles, etc., then the installation should be planned so that the joints of the flooring parts do not coincide with the joints OSB boards.
• If you do not want to calculate the location of the floor covering elements, then you can choose the option of transverse laying. That is, lay the OSB slabs so that the joints of the finishing flooring elements are perpendicular to the joints of the base slabs.
• Or, if you like, you can choose diagonal laying finishing coating, at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, such an installation scheme, for example, of a laminated board, can be relevant in rooms with uneven walls. This option will visually hide flaws in the geometry of the room.
• Before starting installation, be sure to check the evenness of the corners. And it is advisable to start installation work with the smoothest of them.
• Another frequently occurring problem is the divergence of opposite walls in the form of a trapezoid. In this case, it is necessary to make preliminary markings and adjust the slabs laid along the walls according to it. Leaving narrow wedge-shaped strips along the walls in the hope of later filling them with scraps is absolutely the wrong approach.

Installation tools

To perform installation work, of course, you will need some tools and auxiliary materials:

• To cut OSB boards, you need to have a hacksaw on hand, electric jigsaw and/or a hand-held circular saw. A cut made with a regular hacksaw will not be very neat, and it will take much more time and effort. That's why best option- this is a jigsaw. Even a novice master can handle this tool. WITH circular saw the work is somewhat more difficult, but faster, and the cut is the most even.

If you don’t have such tools at your disposal, you can look for rental options. Many stores offer similar services.

• To secure the slabs to a plank surface you will need
• You will need a tape measure, a long metal ruler, a construction square, painter's cord for marking straight lines and a black marker.
• Fasteners - black self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

There is a lot of controversy about black self-tapping screws, saying that they do not provide reliable fixation. It is difficult to agree with this - with a prepared, leveled, stable foundation, exorbitant loads are not expected. And such a self-tapping screw can break off only under very catastrophic destructive influences. But in such a situation, no other fasteners will help.

Installation of OSB boards

So, the installation process consists of several stages and is carried out in the following order:

• The first step along the longitudinal wall of the room is to mark a line, which will immediately show how smooth it is.
• The edge of the slab that will join the wall must be marked and trimmed so that it takes the direction of the wall and the shape of the corner in which it will be laid. The outer lines of the slab must remain perfectly smooth, with a factory edge. Therefore, it is not recommended to touch at least two sides of the sheet.
• When laying the slab against the wall, it is necessary to maintain a deformation gap, which should be 10÷12 mm. To ensure that the gap is the same, you can use spacer wedges. Another option is to glue an elastic damper tape around the perimeter of the walls below before starting work.

• All sheets of the first row may have to be adjusted along the wall line so that outside their edge formed one straight line. To make it easier to maintain this border, focusing on the outer edge of the first sheet, using a paint cord, on plank floor a straight line is struck from wall to wall.

• All the slabs of the first row are laid along this line and then secured. It is necessary to leave a gap of 3–5 mm between the plates to avoid squeaks or even deformations during thermal expansion of the material.

• The second row of sheets, whatever their size, is laid so that their joints do not coincide with the joints of the sheets of the first row. That is, a shift is made like “ brickwork" It often happens that the remains of the last sheet of the previous row become the beginning of the next one.
• The last row will also have to be adjusted, but to the opposite wall. Well, the most last page- and to the corner.

• The slabs are fixed to the base using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in strictly vertically in increments of 350÷400 mm. And their caps should be recessed into the thickness of the slab by 2–3 mm. In order for the slabs to be fixed as firmly and reliably as possible, it is best to fasten them not only around the perimeter. As an option, draw two diagonal lines, and also screw in self-tapping screws along them with the same pitch. This is especially important if the base is covered with large, entire OSB sheets.

Some craftsmen use nails for fastening. But this is not recommended, since squeaks may occur during further use of the coating.

In fact, this is all the secrets of installing OSB boards on wooden base. As you can see, the task is not so difficult, and any owner should cope with it.

* * * * * * *

A few final words. Although oriented strand boards are considered suitable only for arranging a subfloor, some craftsmen can easily turn them into a decorative coating. For this process it is used special technology and varnish. At the same time, the floor surface is no less aesthetic and durable than when expensive materials are laid on it.

One more thing. You should never forget about your own health and that of your loved ones. Completely environmentally friendly OSB can be considered products of emission class E1 or E0.5 with the designations “Green” or “ECO”.

Such materials are made without components harmful to human health. As a rule, these products European manufacturers, which fully comply with technology that meets strict EU environmental standards. However, the cost of such products is somewhat higher.

Some Russian manufacturers Unfortunately, they do not care enough about consumer health. And most often, adhesives containing formaldehyde resins are used as a binder. The cost of such materials is low.

When purchasing OSB, each owner must decide for himself what is more important to him: the price of the material or the health of his family. And to make sure that the selected slabs are clean, you should ask the seller for a certificate of material quality.

The information content of the article will be complemented by a video that shows the nuances of installing OSB boards on a wooden base.

Video: Leveling a plank floor with OSB boards