We will send the material to you by e-mail

Not everyone likes to buy finished goods for home use. The soul of some people requires creative and practical self-realization. The editors of the online magazine website invites those interested to learn how to make a wooden table with their own hands, what is required for this, and whether there are any pitfalls in such work.

A beautiful piece of wood for the kitchen or living room, made with love

Professional carpenters are unlikely to find our step-by-step recommendations, but for novice amateurs the advice will come in handy. First, let's look at what products you can make with your own hands from wood.

Of course, the more skills a person has, the more complex model he can do it. But to build a table with your own hands from wood, there are ready-made drawings and photos to help beginners.

How to choose a material for making your own wooden table for home and garden

What to make your own dining table from? Best of all - made of wood. The most pliable wood for a new master will be pine. Products made from poplar will look more solemn. For the street you can take mahogany.

If you want a simpler option for your home, then you should consider laminated chipboard with optimal thickness at 25-35 mm. You can use wooden boards on the tabletop, birch plywood with a thickness of 35 mm. The legs can be made of metal or wooden beams (about 50 mm thick).

In order not to make a mistake with the amount of material, make a preliminary drawing future design with exactly specified dimensions.

Advice! The suitable height of the product varies between 750-800 mm.

Related article:

DIY wooden furniture: for the garden, children's room, kitchen, bathhouse, garden, gazebo; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and recommendations from experts - read in our publication.

What tools are needed to make a wooden table with your own hands?

It doesn’t matter what shape the future table will be: working with wood requires a certain set of tools. You can’t do without a jigsaw, and it will be much easier to work with electric model. To secure all structural elements, use either a drill with a multi-stage drill for holes, or confirmations. To polish the product to perfection, you need a special attachment for a drill.

For greater fastening strength, the tools include wood glue.

How to make a wooden table with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

We have selected four types of structures that can be made on your own, even with a minimum of carpentry skills. We invite you to learn about the stages of manufacturing a round and rectangular table, a coffee table and a model for garden gazebo.

Making a wooden round table

Easiest to do round table top and a connecting ring of or dimensions 1500 × 1500 mm and 1280 × 1280 mm. You will also need two laminated chipboard strips (1110 × 120 × 25 mm). We will make the legs from four wooden blocks measuring 120 × 50 × 750 mm.

How to make a countertop

How to draw a circle perfectly straight? Place your own thumb on a sheet of plywood in the center with a string and pencil tied to it. The length of the rope from the base to the top should coincide with the radius of the future tabletop. Holding your finger in one place, draw a circle around the full length of the rope with a pencil. All that remains is to cut it out with a jigsaw.

The underframe circle is cut out in the same way.

Making legs

A round table made of wood or chipboard will look charming if you do everything consistently. You won’t have to bother with the legs if your plans aren’t too original. The bars are divided into 4 parts according to the desired size of the table height minus the thickness of the tabletop. First, one leg is cut off, and the other three are aligned along it.

All processing grinder is carried out immediately.

Advice! You shouldn’t rush into sanding, as the first coat of varnish will reveal all the imperfections.

Assembly of the structure and processing of the finished product

Assembly is carried out in stages. First, align the planks groove to groove. Then the crosspiece of the planks is connected to the legs with confirmations, as in the figure below:

If you want to make the structure stronger, before connecting the legs to the tabletop, coat their upper base with glue.

Advice! Nails are not used in this type of work: a self-tapping screw or confirmat can be unscrewed without problems, and the connections will be much stronger.

Making a rectangular wooden kitchen table

The rectangular design is classic and very useful in everyday life: it is convenient to cook on such a table and you can comfortably dine at it.

How to make a countertop

A wooden tabletop for a table is made either from a whole sheet of plywood, or from individual edged boards processed to perfect smoothness.

Having fastened the boards with screws and glue, they begin to make the frame.

Making wooden legs for a table and frame

At the heart of the quadrangular models is a frame. It serves to securely fix the legs, ensuring the stability of the entire structure. The tabletop is turned over, a depth of 3-4 cm is measured on each side and the measurements are transferred to the boards. As a result, you will need two boards of shorter length and two longer.

The frame is made of four elements: according to the approximate ratio, these are two boards of X cm and two of 2X cm. They are connected to each other with an overlap one by one, building a rectangle. In order not to break the 90° angle, use any board when working with a screwdriver: it is used to press the structure while tightening the screws.

As soon as the frame box is ready, they begin to make the legs. You can take ready-made balusters for the table, buy metal supports or cut them out of bars according to the desired length according to the drawing.

Both the frame and the legs are subject to mandatory thorough sanding!

Product installation and final finishing

The frame is screwed to the tabletop with glue or self-tapping screws. Then the product is turned over and the legs begin to be attached.

Important! It's better to make holes for the screws in advance. This eliminates the possibility of the wood splitting.

Why don't they use nails and a hammer? Not everyone has the skills to work with a hammer - it’s not only dangerous to hit your finger. Overdoing it can easily damage the wood by splitting it. Confirmations and self-tapping screws hold the tree much more firmly.

As soon as the leg is secured, the angle is immediately checked: there should be no deviation from 90°. The operation is repeated with other legs. You can attach the legs directly through the tabletop, but this will affect the aesthetic component of the product.

Related article:

: photo best ideas. What can be made from pallets for an apartment, office and cottage; rules for selecting and processing pallets; Master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and shelving - read our publication.

Making your own wooden coffee table

Not only a beautiful interior element, but also a useful one. There is no need to look for a visible place to put a book, gadget, glasses, or TV remote control. Such necessary designs made from different materials: metal, glass, plastic, chipboard, wood. But let's leave other materials alone and concentrate on working with wood.

Choice wooden table top for the table depends on the expectations of the owner of the product. Some people want something massive, while others prefer lighter options. Let's stick to a simple solution.

We purchase five boards 30 × 150 mm and process them to perfect smoothness. Immediately saw off the required length onto the tabletop: you should get 6 identical sheets. We take four bars for the legs, 6 shorter pieces for the lower tabletop, and 4 narrow slats for the frame.

Illustration	Description of action
	To brush wood, use a grinder with a brass brush attachment. The procedure will expose the structure of the wood, giving the product a special flavor.
	We go back and forth along each board on the side that will be the front.
	We treat the wood with fire. The flame is gradually moved from place to place: the board will acquire a beautiful darkish tint. The procedure will completely destroy unnecessary soft fibers wood We actively wipe the entire surface with a felt boot or a piece of felt.

Let's begin the process of assembling a small table with our own hands from wood.

1. The lower and upper tabletops are placed on the work surface with the wrong side facing you. The boards are laid tightly together, gluing them together. Once the boards have set, slats are attached to the top tabletop. They will serve as a frame and fastening element. They can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the slats into each of the boards.
2. The legs are screwed to both the tabletop and the slats. You can use furniture corners.

Video: the process of making a coffee table from wood

Making your own wooden table with benches for a gazebo

It's time to take the time and build a garden wooden table.

It's best to take boards standard sizes. At a hardware store, you can purchase studs (suitable for a length of 16 cm) and washers (24 pieces). For a garden gazebo, long nails (8 cm) will do.

Whether to paint a product or simply varnish it is a matter of taste.

Coffee table - at first glance, not the most necessary furniture. Therefore, its acquisition is endlessly postponed. But it is precisely such items that make the interior truly cozy and comfortable. Therefore, we are sharing ideas that will tell you how to make a stylish coffee table with your own hands and not go broke.

1. Democratic and accessible

To make such a table you will need a pair of metal or plastic boxes and two large boards. Don't forget to fasten the structure securely.

2. For the smartest

Books with beautiful covers and small glass for the table top are all the materials for such a coffee table. The books must be glued together, and the glass can be fixed to them using silicone glue, which becomes transparent after drying.

3. Ordered chaos

A coffee table made of flat elements fastened together in a chaotic manner is an idea that is easy to implement. Wooden saw cuts, parts of boards, big books.

4. Industrial style

A reel for industrial cables is a thing that cannot be found on every corner. But if you are lucky enough to become the owner of this item, it can be used to make an excellent coffee table.

5. Table for car enthusiasts

Coffee table from car tire will last for many years. But it is advisable to use the tire without damage. All that remains is to paint it, secure the tabletop and legs.

6. Wooden table is almost free

Ordinary pallets, which can be purchased for pennies, are an excellent material for making furniture. A little imagination, and the wooden coffee table is ready.

7. Second life for old boxes

Another way to become an owner coffee table from natural wood- this is to use old boxes as material for its manufacture. Four large drawers fastened together form a stylish table.

8. Extravagant chic

A coffee table with asymmetrical legs looks especially original, but at the same time luxurious. The tabletop is made of a thick board or a wooden cut.

9. From the dacha to the living room

Big wooden barrel Easily converts into a coffee table. It must be cut into two parts, and then the table top and legs must be attached to one of them.

10. Spacious and functional table out of the box

A utility box made of plastic or wood can also be used as a coffee table. To make the table mobile, you can attach small wheels to its bottom.

11. Warm table

Old radiator heating – solid foundation, which will help you make a coffee table with your own hands. You just need to paint it in desired color, attach the wheels and place thick glass on top.

12. From the interior door

Interior door, which has served its useful life, becomes material for making a coffee table with your own hands. It must be cut into several parts and fastened together.

13. If it’s a pity to quit and it’s hard to carry

An old suitcase can become an original tabletop for a coffee table. You just need to attach the legs to it.

14. Brutal elegance

Available option making legs for a coffee table - these are ordinary plastic or metal pipes, connected to each other by fittings. This furniture will fit perfectly into a loft-style interior.

15. From ordinary wooden beams

Wooden beam, folded in a checkerboard pattern, will become a tabletop for a homemade coffee table. The legs can be made from thick metal wire.

To make the interior look harmonious, you need to take care not only of the details, but also of the decoration of the room. Continuing the topic -

The one that is most memorable is the poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free space for legs, which has too little room. To help you design a table that will be remembered only for its attractive appearance, we will provide basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the legs. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEEL ROOM. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for your knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal distance is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed towards the table. Minimum – 15 cm.

ELBOW ROOM. Side space on the table for each person sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each person seated. Less than 30 cm will not be enough, and more than 45 cm will be too much.

SPACE FOR A CHAIR. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away when getting up from the table. Architects claim that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, but 110 cm will be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table as the one pictured here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original ones. In the simplest version, the table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and tsar belt form a strong, yet open, support structure. In a structural sense, many tables are tsar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called by functional purpose or their location: dining table, kitchen table, bedside table, desk. As you look further through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this “basic” table. This type of table can usually be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness creates the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the reasonable dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of a table with a tsar belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, turned, tapered or carved. Even the drawers can influence the appearance of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same turned legs as the base table looks completely different. The square tsar belt with the round lid gives it this distinct look. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the Queen Anne style, the massive drawers make it a work desk. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room for the occupant.

Country style table

This table is called by different names - country style table, retro style table, bar table - and presented in different ways. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive base with turned legs and legs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawstring belt and legs. Legs, especially those as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the legs can increase the service life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th-18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. Surviving examples of such tables actually have massive legs - although they are heavily worn out by many feet. The table shown here is equipped with one middle leg instead of two longitudinal ones, to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is simple. The drawbars and legs are cut into the legs with spikes and reinforced with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “at the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our “original” table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the frame-to-leg joints. On a country-style table, you can also change the legs - depending on the appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer and drawer

The name “table with a tsar belt” refers not to the style, but to the design. This type of table is the basis for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the desk since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, while in others you need the largest one possible. There are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a box into the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut out a drawer opening in the drawer frame. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Tenon joints provide rigidity. A design with two bars - supraglottic and subgular - is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in round table quite possible. But if the drawer belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer.

An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low legs that diverge to the sides. Here, drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have plenty of knee and hip room, its "creepy" legs tend to get in the way of the sitter's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more and you risk knocking over the table by leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks that taper downwards, and the racks are connected to the tabletop brackets with double tenons into the lugs. These intermediate assemblies are in turn glued onto a square core lath to form a central support that flares upward.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as small table magazine type with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from simple utilitarian to multi-post. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased resistance to tilting. Although the support area may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the tabletop, big table with this type of support it can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Place a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been significantly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the trestle consists of a fairly wide stand, embedded at the bottom into the leg, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists swaying from side to side. There is a long, massive rod embedded in the racks. The tabletop is attached with screws to the trestles, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is enough space for your feet under the tabletop, you should not forget about the footrest so that when sitting at the table you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude beyond the trestle by 35–45 cm to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common methods of fastening parts of a collapsible table are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change appearance this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses were similar to sawhorses, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found around picnic tables. Today the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful legs with “high rise”

The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional cover board. Then regular table for a family, it can be increased to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special runners. The runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each table cover must be at least 60 cm – optimal location per person sitting.

Design options

The design of an extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and tabletops has virtually no effect on general design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with the sliding version they work as usual. As the extension range increases, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And don't forget the importance small parts– for example, attaching drawers to a table top

Extendable table on one support

A table with a single support is a basic form of table that has some advantages over a table with a tsar belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. Such a table can easily have a sliding, folding, or hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the lid is divided into two and its halves are connected by special sliding runners. Thus, these two lid panels can be pulled apart and an additional board inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the support area must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is attached to a corresponding cover panel. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small expansion, say 30–40 cm, is acceptable, then extendable table It can also be done on a non-split support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is a system with sliding sections. It is easy to make and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawer and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapered runners, are laid on the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the drawers. The existing central board separating the side sections is secured with screws to the frames. The table cover is placed on top of the central board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops that prevent the section from being pulled out too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won’t have to search through closets and closets for them when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You simply pull out a section or two – even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with retractable sections is compatible with any type of table support, provided that drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-legged table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with shapes other than rectilinear. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look quite strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section located under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the drawers.

Double-support table with extensions
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the “main” lid; this section is connected to the lid using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is not difficult. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity the ridges may become stuck in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. When unfolded, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the tabletop, which creates sufficient space for people to sit under the table. The Y-shape of the legs will provide sufficient space for the legs of those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look strange with a small tabletop overhang. Good options for this use include a side table (as a base table), a sofa table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding tops are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless sliding mechanism will do here too.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the tabletop are connected to each other by hinges. It is a common species and has been present throughout American history. In any style of furniture, from William and Mary style to modern, you will find a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered into a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. The example shown here uses retractable holders - you lift the board and slide out the support brackets from underneath it (much like drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, a table with swivel legs, a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by retractable or swivel/hinge arms. Make the folding boards relatively narrow - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections, see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. Incidentally, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which applies to a relatively long, utilitarian table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as “suffering,” creates in the conscious mind a picture of a large table laid out,” laden with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a clapper table or a folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion and shape. The table top (tabletop) may have folding boards of a round or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Book table is the Russian name for a table with rotating frame supports, which are hinged to the frame-leg-leg assembly. The support post is connected to the rotating post by an upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel support became the predecessor of the swivel leg. There's a lot in it structural elements, reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 rotary supports. When folded, tables were usually very narrow and saved significant space. A large table with two swivel legs on each folding board can be made so that the legs swivel both towards each other and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the supporting posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support posts will be positioned side by side, creating the appearance of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex turned profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book-table is the ability to support very large additional sections. Reliable support under the folding board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. When unfolded, it has a huge tabletop

This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg sets it apart from others of its kind. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lighter appearance. It is the size rather than the assembly of the swivel leg that characterizes this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called a "breakfast table" and was used both for actual breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs to provide better support for the folding boards. Hinge joint - actually wooden hinge– makes the swivel leg feasible. A fancier version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a rotating table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as the “basic” one, the swivel leg was used in tables different styles. The profile of the leg will generally be an indicator of style. Chippendale style swing leg tables often have cabriole designs, but always with a claw-and-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite style tables had tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables had turned, often embossed, legs.

The unfolded folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel support over a table with a swivel leg is the stability created by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with swing legs also has this advantage over a table with swing legs, but also has one advantage over a table with frame swing legs. Like the swing leg table, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are pulled out through the cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the folding board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can support very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to the additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and placed against the wall, the additional leg is not noticeable. By unfolding the gaming table and extending the additional leg, you will have support at each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Retractable legs will also be a great addition for long table with folding boards. If you make two extendable legs for each board, the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its appearance to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down it is a table. With the lid raised there is a seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more advanced in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has an under-seat drawer for more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is attached with a dovetail mortise.

Making a table is a great simple project for a beginning woodworker, but it can also be quite a challenging job for more experienced woodworkers. The simplest table consists of a tabletop, legs and a supporting frame. With a little bit of lumber for these elements, you can create a table that suits your needs perfectly.

Steps

Part 1

Designing a table model

Check out the different table options to decide what kind of table you want to make. There are a lot various types tables, so take the time to make wise choices specific project. Go online and look for photos of tables, paying attention to the style of each item. You can also find possible ideas in furniture catalogs and carpentry magazines.

• Base your choice on your own needs, for example, consider what you will use it for. new table and how much space you have for it.
• Perhaps you need a large dining table in rustic style. Or do you want to make a small one? coffee table or an elegant bedside table.

EXPERT ADVICE

"If you're a beginner woodworker, it's easiest to start with a side table or coffee table."

Jeff Win is the General Manager of Handyman Rescue Team, a full-service home maintenance and repair company in the greater Seattle area. Has been doing repairs for over 5 years. Has certifications in electronic technologies.

General Manager of Handyman Rescue Team

Make a sketch of the table on paper. Use a pencil and ruler to draw your ideal table. Don't worry about exact sizes just yet. Just imagine what your table should look like in finished form. Give it the features you need, and only then think about the size.

• When it is ready sample project table, mark the corresponding dimensions on it with a pencil. The specific sizes of lumber you plan to use can be found at hardware stores.
• The size of the table will depend on its type. For example, a dining table is usually noticeably larger than a bedside table.

1. Calculate how much lumber you will need. Break down your desk design into its basic elements. U simple table there will be elements such as a table top, legs and a supporting frame connecting them. If you plan to equip the table with additional elements, do not forget to take into account the materials for them.,

   • For example, try making a table with a tabletop from three boards with a cross-section of 5 cm x 30 cm and a length of 150 cm, legs from four pieces of timber with a cross-section of 10 cm x 10 cm and a length of 70 cm, and a support frame from two boards with a cross-section of 5 cm x 10 cm and 75 cm long, as well as two boards with a section of 5 cm x 10 cm and a length of 145 cm.
   • Purchase additional lumber for any additional elements, which you want to endow your table with. For example, you can add leg crossbars to increase the strength of the table or provide sliding elements countertops.

2. To make a table that will last, choose inexpensive but durable wood, such as pine. Pine is not a particularly hard wood, but it is easy for beginners to work with. You can easily make a table from it that will last for decades. Also, durable tables are often made from solid maple and cherry.

   • Consider other inexpensive wood options. For example, construction grade fir can be used to make tables. Also, good furniture is made from poplar, but this wood is more difficult to stain with stain.
   • For outdoor furniture It is better to opt for mahogany, cypress or specially treated wood, such as pine, impregnated with preservatives under pressure.

3. Buy lumber and cut it into parts. Once you know exactly what you need, go to hardware store and buy lumber. Many stores can even cut materials to your size, so don’t be lazy to ask about this service. This will reduce the amount of work ahead so that you can start assembling the table right away.

   • If you have a workbench, vice, disk or regular hand saw, you can cut the wood yourself. When working with a saw, be sure to wear polycarbonate safety glasses and a respirator.

   Part 2

   Assembling the tabletop and support frame

   1. Lay the tabletop boards on a flat surface side by side with each other. Try to choose as much as possible flat surface for work so that the tabletop is level. Select a face for each countertop board you use. Lay all the boards front side down. Arrange the boards exactly as specified in the table design you prepared.

      • When making a large table, work on the floor. To avoid damaging or scratching anything, the floor can be pre-covered with a sheet or tarpaulin.
      • One of the ways to connect boards to each other is with butt joints using self-tapping screws. It’s even easier to connect various structural elements together by interlocking the boards (through grooves and protrusions), but you can also fasten the parts on dowels if you know how to do this.
      • In addition, you can make a tabletop from solid wood. However, this will be noticeably more expensive and somewhat more difficult due to the weight of a solid wooden shield. To save money, consider using construction plywood faced with hardwood.

   2. Drill oblique basting holes in the boards of the tabletop for self-tapping screws to connect the edge of the outer board of the tabletop with the edge of the next (inner) board. The presence of basting holes will prevent the wood from cracking when you screw screws into it. To make basting holes, first measure the length of the tabletop. Mark the holes approximately every 18 cm. You will need a fairly long wood drill bit (about 7.5 cm long and slightly smaller in diameter than the screws you will use). Using it, drill oblique basting holes from the edge of one board to the edge of another (from the outer board to the inner one) every 18 cm.

      • To make your work easier, you can use a special machine for deep drilling. Simply adjust the drilling depth on it and drill perfect pilot holes at a specific angle to the surface of the wood. This machine reduces the risk that you will drill right through the wood.
      • It will also become much easier to work if you first tighten the boards together with a vice.
      • This is not the only way to join tabletop boards. You can also first assemble the support frame and table legs, and then attach the tabletop boards directly to the support frame with self-tapping screws through the basting holes.

   3. Fasten the boards with self-tapping screws. Screw 6.5 cm long self-tapping screws into the basting holes. Use an electric drill to screw in the self-tapping screws to the very end. They will not lead to cracking of the wood and will securely fasten the boards of the tabletop.

      Mark the position of the support frame on the underside of the tabletop. The support frame is attached to the table top and table legs, preventing these parts from moving. From the edges of the tabletop, measure approximately 2.5 cm deep. Then, with a pencil, draw a line here that will mark the place where the support frame is attached to the tabletop.

      • Having a 2.5 cm indent will prevent a situation where the support frame sticks out from under the tabletop. In addition, this way you leave a little more space under the table for free movement of the legs between its legs and, in general, improves the appearance of the table.
      • If you have not yet cut the wood for the supporting frame, to calculate the dimensions of its parts, use the dimensions of the tabletop (length and width), taking into account the required distance from the edge and the cross-section of the boards used.

   4. Glue the support frame to the tabletop and clamp it in a vice. Place the supporting frame pieces along the previously drawn lines. You will have two long pieces along the edges along the table and two short pieces across it (and inside the long pieces). Cover inner side parts with an even layer of wood glue to attach them to the tabletop. Secure the pieces with a vice overnight to prevent them from moving.

      • You can also securely attach these parts to the tabletop using self-tapping screws. In this case, use a deep drilling machine to pre-create basting holes for the screws.
      • Alternatively, you can first attach the legs to the table and then connect them to the support frame using self-tapping screws. To make the legs stronger, you can additionally attach corner ties inside the support frame.

   Part 3

   Attaching the legs

   1. Cut legs of the required length from the timber. Attaching the legs is the most difficult operation in making a table. If you attach the legs poorly, you will not have a strong and durable reliable table, but a flimsy, unstable structure. Start by measuring the exact length of each leg and sawing off the corresponding pieces of beams with a saw.

      • Even if your materials were cut at a shop, the pieces may still be slightly uneven. Check their size before attaching the legs to the table.
      • If you are making the legs yourself, first rough cut the pieces with a circular saw. Then fold the legs evenly, clamp them in a vice and, if necessary, trim them to the same size.

   2. Glue the legs at the corners of the support frame. The legs must be placed in the corners of the support frame, where its parts fit together. Apply adhesive in the corners to the inside of the support frames and the underside of the tabletop. Then place the legs in the corners and secure with a vice.

      • You can wait for the glue to dry, but this is not necessary. Just keep the legs securely in place with a vice so they don't move when you use the screws to secure them.

   3. Drill pilot holes in the support frame and table legs. The screws should be centered on each area where the leg meets the support frame. Drill holes from the side of the support frame towards the leg. Use a drill bit with a diameter of about 6mm (but thinner than the screws used) to make the first pilot hole in the wood of the leg. Repeat the same on the other side of the support frame. In total you will have 8 basting holes.

      • If you want to additionally fasten the legs with crossbars, the process will be somewhat more complicated. You will need a circular saw to make grooves on each leg that are slightly less than half the thickness of the timber. On each leg it will be necessary to make 2 grooves (one on each side where the crossbars will be attached.

   4. Attach the table legs to the support frame with self-tapping screws. Use two screws with a diameter of about 7 mm for each leg. Screw the screws through the support frame into the legs. Use a ratchet screwdriver for this.

      • Do not screw in self-tapping screws with a drill. They can go very tightly and accidentally break off.
      • Make sure the legs are level and at right angles to the tabletop before driving the screws into them.

   5. Wait for the glue you used to completely dry and set. Read the manufacturer's instructions that came with the adhesive to find out how long you'll have to wait. If you leave the table alone overnight, you can be sure that the glue will dry. Usually the table can be turned into the correct position even before this time.

   6. Turn the table over on its legs to check its stability. Carefully turn the table over. It can get quite heavy! Place it on the floor and try to rock it. If the table is wobbly, it means the legs are not perfect enough. They may be different lengths - in which case you will need to flip the table back over and shorten the legs to the same length.

      • Although the legs can be cut with a circular saw or hacksaw, it is easy to make a mistake and shorten them too much. Instead, it's best to sand down some of the legs a bit with 80-grit sandpaper and then sand them down with 220-grit sandpaper.
      • The position of the legs themselves can also create problems. Make sure they fit snugly against the tabletop and support frame. If necessary, unscrew the screws and correct the position of the legs.

   Part 4

   Wood sanding and tinting

   1. Sand the table with 80 grit sandpaper. This is a coarse sandpaper, so it will make the wood a little rough, which is completely normal. Just think about what the finished table will look like! If you look closely at the wood, you will notice the direction of its grain (lines). Sand the entire surface of the wood in the direction of the grain (including the underside of the table and legs).

      • To make your work easier, use a belt sander. It is unlikely that it will leave behind any permanent defects on the surface of the table when you process your product with it just once.
      • It is not necessary to sand the wood and tint it with stain. If you like the surface quality of the wood, leave it as is. You may just want to coat it with varnish to protect it from moisture. To properly treat wood with stain, treat only one side of the table at a time.
      • Create the table you want! For the table you can use not only different types of wood, but also other materials. For example, the table legs can be made of pipes, and the tabletop itself can be made of metal or glass.
      • Collecting wooden furniture, be sure to drill pilot holes, especially in wood 2.5 cm thick or less, to prevent it from cracking.
      • Consider reusing lumber. This may require more effort in designing and shading the table, but will often result in a more interesting final result.
      • Fasten wood exclusively with self-tapping screws. Nails hold less well and can lead to cracks. In addition, the self-tapping screw will be easier to unscrew if you make a mistake.

      Warnings

      • Be careful when working with tools! If not handled correctly, a drill or other piece of equipment can be quite dangerous.
      • Be sure to use protective equipment while working with tools. Wear earplugs and safety glasses. Wear a dust mask and avoid wearing long clothing that could get caught on tools.
      • Many tinting products contain toxic substances that evaporate during use, so work with them in a respirator and in a well-ventilated room.

A table is furniture that you can’t do without either in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo, or just in shady place. You can dine at it, have a feast or play Board games in the fresh air. You can only buy a small plastic table inexpensively; a large wooden table for a summer house is cheaper to make with your own hands. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.

Table dimensions and construction features

The optimal tabletop size for a garden table is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, table large sizes It will be too bulky and difficult to put away for the winter. The table size of 80x120 cm will allow you to hold ceremonial feasts with the number of participants 8 - 10 people.

The easiest way to make a table for a summer house is from boards. In addition, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a table from wood is that the boards can be sawed right size at any construction base, and without any problems bring it to the dacha, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with table dimensions of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a tabletop board 120 cm long. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.

There are quite a lot of varieties of table designs, but by and large the only difference is in the form of the legs on which the tabletop rests. Therefore, the legs of the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.

Table top

The tabletop at the table in the country house is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However, the best option is a board with a thickness of 40 mm.

An important point is cutting the boards. With a tabletop length of 120 cm, 5.3 boards with a width of 150 mm, 6.6 boards with a width of 120 mm and 8 boards with a width of 100 mm are required. Considering that boards are sold in lengths of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the tabletop.

By choosing a board with a width of 100 mm, you will not have to adjust or change the dimensions of the tabletop, which will greatly simplify the work of arranging the table. In addition, there will be 2 more boards 120 mm long, which can be used for other parts.

If you can’t purchase the right board, you can make the tabletop not continuous, but with intervals. Such a tabletop will look no less interesting. In this case, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid tabletop will flow through the gaps between the boards.

Table with straight legs

Table with straight legs simple design table for the garden. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.

Fig.1.

The legs for the table consist of 4 elements: 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal rack is attached to the tabletop, the lower one is a support.

Fig.2.

The design of the legs may vary. For example, instead of being supported on the bottom board, you can make it supported by vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made as an additional one for strength.

Please note that in this design, the boards are connected without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. To ensure that all elements are well secured, all joints must be glued with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.

Fig.3.

• Assemble the legs. To do this, you need to cut the board according to the drawing. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or confirmant.
• Lay out the boards for the tabletop on a level surface, mark the position of the legs and secure the tabletop boards through the top strip of the legs.
• Install a horizontal tie between the legs.
• Wait 2 - 3 hours until the glue dries and remove burrs and sharp edges from the table.
• Next, the table can be varnished. Or simply treat with an antiseptic.

Table with X-shaped legs

A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to manufacture without creating additional grooves on the legs. This makes the work somewhat more difficult.

Fig.4.

The table legs consist of 3 elements. Two crossing supports and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for attaching the tabletop.

Fig.5.

To connect the legs in the inclined supports, you need to make a slot in the floor of the board.

Fig.6.

The table assembly procedure is as follows:

• Cut the boards to the required length.
• A groove is made in the legs into the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a router.
• Assemble the legs. The connections are glued. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
• Lay out the tabletop boards and attach the assembled legs to them.
• Install the bottom screed board.
• The table is treated to remove burrs and varnished.

Table with benches

A table with benches is often installed on verandas or under open air. Unlike the designs described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs; the benches are included in the design of the table.

Fig.7.

The disadvantage of this version of the table for the dacha is that the design is quite cumbersome, and putting it away for the winter becomes very problematic.

Fig.8.

A special feature of the table design is that the benches are attached directly to the table legs. The crossbars on which the benches are attached simultaneously act as a tie for the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal tie.

Fig.9.

The procedure for assembling a table with benches is as follows:

• Cut the boards to the required length.
• Assemble the legs and support for the bench flooring. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
• Mark the boards for the tabletop and mount them to the legs.
• Benches are secured.
• Treat with impregnation or antiseptic.

Examples of garden tables

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

Fig. 12.

Fig. 13.

Fig. 14.

Fig. 15.

Fig. 16.

Fig. 17.