Incomparable hydrangeas have always been popular among gardeners and summer residents because of their luxurious inflorescences of various colors, as well as their ability to create beautiful landscapes on the site. Some of them can curl like vines, others have the shape of a bush or tree, but all of them bloom luxuriously and are fragrant in summer period time. But it should be noted that achieving such beauty by summer takes a lot of effort, since the plant needs care and, of course, proper seasonal pruning.

The pruning procedure is a rather delicate matter; it requires compliance with certain important points. First of all, it is worth understanding when it is better to prune hydrangeas - in spring or autumn.

In most cases, manipulations with hydrangea can be fraught; they can lead to diseases and reduced frost resistance of the plant. Moreover, the cuts themselves may not close at the right time, which will lead to freezing of the bush branches. Usually, already dried flowers are cut in the fall - this is quite safe, since it does not lead to the formation of wounds at the cut sites. In addition, in winter the inflorescences will begin to lower the hydrangea branches downwards, which can break or deform the branches and the entire shrub as a whole.

In the spring, pruning of hydrangeas is carried out in a short time, since it is carried out mainly until the moment when the juice flows through the bush. The main manipulations with hydrangea are carried out precisely in spring period time, although there are also disadvantages and advantages.

Advantages spring pruning of hydrangea:

1. Appearance. By pruning a bush in the spring, you will certainly improve it appearance, create a more correct, desired bush shape.
2. Abundant flowering. By cutting off dried branches, you stimulate the growth of new, young ones, which will produce more larger, brighter inflorescences.
3. Right choice cut branches. In the spring, it is much easier to separate living branches from dying ones, which should be removed for full growth and health of the hydrangea. They are easy to identify by their color, as well as their slightly swollen buds.
4. No risk of freezing. By pruning hydrangea branches in the spring, you do not risk the cuts being damaged. winter frosts, as happens during autumn pruning. However, cuts must be treated with charcoal powder both in autumn and spring. This works as an antiseptic and stimulates the growth of new shoots.

Flaws hydrangea trimmings in spring:

1. Short time. In the spring, as a rule, pruning is done during the dormant period, before the sap begins to flow in the plant, since if you are a little late in doing this, you risk seriously harming the shrub or completely depriving yourself of the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful flowering of the unique hydrangea.
2. Time to grow. Having cut off the necessary branches, you will not immediately get young inflorescences on the new shoots. You'll have to wait until the end of the season to see the fruits of your handiwork, although it could happen much sooner.
3. Growth phases. A little later than expected, pruned branches in the spring can radically shift all phases of plant growth and, thus, the hydrangea will not be able to ripen, nor fully prepare for winter. This will make it vulnerable to frost, which can even lead to the death of the bush.

When to prune in spring: in what month, timing

Typically, the main types of hydrangea pruning are performed precisely in early spring when the earth is still covered thin layer snow, but it is important to take into account several points that will help you perform the procedure correctly, without harm to the plant.

Once the appropriate day and month of spring have been chosen for pruning the hydrangea, you must use the basic rules for high-quality flower-bearing pruning of the plant:

• adult bush or tree first thinned out;
• weak branches are removed palm's width from the ground;
• are circumcised extra shoots growing inside the bush that give an unwanted shadow;
• produced removing frozen branches up to the beginning of healthy wood;
• garter after fixing the trimmed plant on a suitable support in the form of an iron or wooden pole.

Important! Before cutting anything, you first need to know the name and type of hydrangea that lives in your garden, as this information will help in proper care and save you from unnecessary problems and disappointments.

Hydrangeas are divided into two main groups:

1. Hydrangeas blooming on last year's shoots (large-leaved, oak-leaved, liana-shaped, serrated).
2. Hydrangeas blooming on the shoots of the current year (paniculate, tree-like).

Note! Plants of the first group are pruned quite modestly, removing only old dried inflorescences, as well as weak shoots that did not survive the winter well. Not applicable to them standard rules, since they deprive the plant of the opportunity to bloom.

Step-by-step instructions, diagrams and features of pruning hydrangea varieties in spring: types of spring pruning

Having found out that each individual type of hydrangea has its own characteristics and tolerates certain types of pruning differently, it is necessary to understand in more detail about each of them.

Tree variety

Tree hydrangea is pruned in spring and autumn according to the following schemes, using certain types of pruning.

1. Removing spherical inflorescences.
2. Sanitary pruning - removal of broken, dead ends of branches.
3. Rejuvenating - complete removal of old branches.
4. Thinning - cutting off zero shoots that are incapable of flowering, which only take away the strength of the flowering bush.
5. Pruning for flowering - shortening last year's shoots to the length of about four pairs of strong buds.

Video: spring pruning of tree hydrangea

By the way! A similar scheme and types of spring pruning are also applied to varieties such as ashy, motley hydrangea.

Paniculate variety

Paniculata hydrangea is pruned in spring and autumn according to the following schemes, using certain types of pruning:

1. removal of cone-shaped inflorescences;
2. sanitary pruning - cutting only dried branches, because this type resistant to cold, shoots do not freeze;
3. rejuvenating procedure - involves cutting branches with fading growth, as it resembles a tree, has a skeletal trunk and branches;
4. shortening shoots for the growth of large young inflorescences;
5. thinning pruning - removal of excess shoots in order to avoid thickening and shading of the tree.

Video: spring pruning of paniculata hydrangea

Note! Of the three or four new shoots growing from one bud, you should cut off at least one, and choose the one that grows inside the bush.

Large-leaved variety

Large-leaved hydrangea is pruned in spring and autumn according to the following schemes and using certain types of pruning:

1. preservation of new shoots that did not flower;
2. removal of only two-year-old faded branches;
3. Moreover, pruning of large shoots (2) is carried out right up to the outgoing new branch (1);
4. sanitary pruning - cutting off dead, frozen, damaged branches;
5. anti-aging pruning – cutting off perennial branches;
6. thinning pruning - cutting off small, weak shoots.

Video: spring pruning of large-leaved hydrangea

Worth knowing! Hydrangeas are pruned for flowering in the spring only if this was not done in the fall.

Care after spring pruning

Having successfully completed the stage of spring pruning of your shrub or tree, the next procedure should be competent, consistent care for your hydrangea.

First of all, you need to organize timely feeding the plant, which will stimulate the rapid growth of strong newcomers, but long, thin growth unsuitable for flowering can be avoided. The best helpers will be mineral fertilizers.

Mulch the soil any suitable material (manure, compost, etc.) - second important stage care This will help strengthen metabolic processes in the roots, create additional protection from pests and weed growth. The layer of such shelter should be at least 5-6 cm in height.

Abundant, regular watering– the key to a luxurious crown and lush, unique flowering of hydrangea. As new growth occurs, young branches should be tied up, as they do not always support new large flowers and can break under their weight.

Popular mistakes when carrying out the pruning procedure

In order to avoid mistakes and not destroy the plant, it is worth paying attention to the most common mistakes that amateurs often tend to make when carrying out this type of work.

Popular mistakes when pruning hydrangeas in spring are:

• Incorrect timing of the trimming process itself almost always leads to a slowdown in the growth of hydrangea, as well as its meager and unremarkable flowering.
• Failure to comply with the rules, sequence, procedure entails the formation of unsuccessful forms of shrubs, its total overgrowth or death.
• Ignoring recommendations for each individual variety hydrangea can ruin the plant even before the start of its expected full life and development.
• Incompetence regarding name and type acquired seedling also leads to serious errors in further care and sample development.
• Lack of any care at all behind a plant is simply unacceptable if we're talking about about the vulnerable beauty hydrangea.

In conclusion, I would like to say that by growing a unique hydrangea on your plot or garden, you will receive maximum emotions and impressions from its beauty, which will not allow you to be lazy and ignore its presence. Your hands will reach out to do something special and necessary for it, and seasonal spring pruning of hydrangea will become a completely familiar, favorite thing for you.

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Hydrangeas have firmly established themselves in garden plots. These elegantly flowering bushes are unpretentious and do not require much time for care. However, in order for them to remain in beautiful shape and delight lush flowering, they need pruning. When the procedure is carried out correctly, the plant grows with numerous young branches, at the ends of which elegant, lush inflorescences form. In order not to harm the plant, you need to know exactly when and how to prune hydrangea correctly. The specifics of the procedure vary somewhat depending on the plant variety, and this must be taken into account.

To trim the bush, use a sharp pruner, which will be easy to cut and not break off the branches. This is very important for the plant to form correctly and actively grow.

Pruning goals

Pruning hydrangea has several purposes. Without it, the plant can naturally grow, but this leads to the crushing of inflorescences and a decrease in their number. Also, a well-formed bush looks more decorative, which adds beauty to the garden. Thanks to pruning, the following goals are achieved:

• beautiful shape bush with an abundance of green mass;
• plant rejuvenation;
• maintaining health;
• improvement of flowering.

The procedure annually gives impetus to the abundant growth of young shoots, which quickly produce flowers. Due to their shorter length, they create abundant green mass in the lower part of the plant, where old twigs can no longer produce such greenery.

General pruning rules

Hydrangea needs to be trimmed correctly, otherwise it can even be ruined. Available general recommendations, which apply to all varieties and species. Do not cut the plant in rainy or very dry weather, or in extreme heat. It is better to carry out pruning in evening time, then all the damaged areas will have time to heal by the morning and will not attract unnecessary insects and will not dry out if the sun is too hot.

When pruning thick shoots that begin to release juice abundantly, they are covered with garden varnish or paint so that the hydrangea does not weaken.

Typically, this phenomenon is observed when pruning a tree-like variety, if it is necessary to remove a large part of the crown.

The cut is made obliquely, with one squeeze of the pruner, without soaking the plant tissue. Sometimes in places where you can’t reach with garden shears, you can use a sharp knife or a garden saw (if the branch is thick). This should be done only as a last resort, since such plant injury takes longer to heal.

Features of pruning by variety

In gardens, paniculate, tree-like, ground cover and large-leaved hydrangeas are most often grown. Depending on the type of plant, the rules for cutting it also change. You need to know them, since mistakes will lead to the fact that the bush will not bloom magnificently and elegantly.

Large-leaved and ground cover

Pruning of large-leaved hydrangea is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes. During this process, dead shoots and already wilted inflorescences are cut off from the plant. You can also thin out the bush somewhat if it is too thick. It is impossible to rid the plant of last year’s shoots before winter, since it is on them that buds for inflorescences are laid in the fall. By cutting them, the owner will receive only a lush one in the spring, but not flowering bush.

In order not to spoil the hydrangea next year, it is necessary to cut off the faded inflorescences in the summer. This will allow the plant to have time to produce young shoots before the onset of the cold period, and, therefore, flowering caps will appear on them in the summer.

When a hydrangea is sheltering for the winter, weak shoots are cut out of the bush, this will make it easier for it to winter.

The plant must be rejuvenated once every 3 years, cutting the shoots by 30-40 centimeters. Only ¼ of all branches of the bush are affected by such a haircut.

Ground cover hydrangea also does not require serious pruning, despite the fact that it produces flowers on spring shoots. When to prune hydrangeas - in spring or autumn - depends on weather conditions and the preferences of the gardener. It is enough to prune the ground cover bush once a year, removing only excessively long shoots that disrupt its shape.

Paniculata hydrangea

According to the rules of pruning paniculata hydrangea is held in the fall. Skeletal shoots should not be touched. Only those branches that grow inside the bush are pruned, thickening it excessively. Dried panicles must also be removed. Young shoots are very fragile and easily break under the snow mass. If it is clear that they will not become woody before winter, you need to remove them with pruning shears.

Before winter, the shoots that had inflorescences are cut off, leaving only 2-3 buds on them. This is necessary so that in the spring the hydrangea, when its leaves bloom, looks elegant. Buds are formed only on spring shoots.

Hydrangea paniculata, pruned for rejuvenating purposes, is processed in the fall. To do this, several skeletal branches are cut off, leaving only 2-3 growing outwards.

Pruning hydrangea paniculata in the spring is carried out to restore a beautiful crown after winter. Branches that have dried out, unable to withstand frost, or have been broken are removed from it. You can also gradually create a standard during spring pruning, thanks to which the hydrangea will look like a lush flower cloud on a stalk.

Tree-like

Trimming tree hydrangea is required. This should be done in the fall. In winter, if all dry inflorescences remain on the branches, they will fill with snow, become unbearably heavy for the plant and break it. They need to be cut with a small stem. Very active cutting can harm the plant, especially if it is young and not yet ready for rejuvenation.

Serious pruning for the first time can only be carried out on plants aged 4 years or older.

Pruning hydrangeas in the fall may seem difficult for beginners due to the need to count the buds left on the shoots (there should be 3-4 of them), but soon it becomes automatic and no problems arise.

Anti-aging pruning of tree hydrangea is carried out no earlier than 7 years after planting the plant. If the root system is not very large, all shoots are cut off before winter, leaving only 10 cm of stumps above the ground. If the root is powerful, then only ¼ of the bush is cut off in a year, and so the plant is gradually completely rejuvenated.

If you cut off the bush completely with an extensive root, it will not have enough strength to recover. This happens because the root system will need constant replenishment with substances that enter it from the above-ground part, and only young runs will not be able to provide them in the required amount.

Pruning hydrangeas in the spring may be necessary if, after a harsh winter, the bush has frozen and broken branches. They are cut with pruning shears when the most active spring sap flow has already passed, since otherwise the plant will weaken when touching living tissues.

Types of pruning

In order to more accurately navigate what type of pruning a plant needs at a particular moment, you need to accurately understand what type of pruning involves what.

1. Rejuvenating - cutting a large number of shoots to a greater length to obtain new ones from the root, which will be stronger and stronger due to their young age and the absence of defects in them caused by negative impacts environment. This type of pruning of hydrangeas is carried out in the fall.
2. Sanitary – removal of unsuitable shoots that spoil the appearance of the plant and create unnecessary mass. Dry, broken and defective shoots are cut off.
3. Formative – the most complex and necessary to obtain beautiful bush. It is carried out immediately after planting and then for several years.

All trimming is done with pruning shears. The use of ordinary scissors is unacceptable.

Shaping haircut

It is carried out without fail in the first 2 years from the moment the plant was planted, and then - at the request of the owner for another 2-3 years. Thanks to the procedure, it is possible to lay correct form bush and provide it with strong branches growing in a beautiful direction.

Trimming is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Before planting, the seedling is trimmed a little so that the root does not spend much effort on the above-ground part and is formed correctly. All broken and dried shoots are also cut off.
• After winter - in March or April, depending on the climate, the bush is sanitary pruned and all shoots are also pruned so that the root continues to fully develop.
• In the second year, from this moment the formation of a correct, beautiful crown begins. All shoots remaining from last year are pruned, leaving 3 buds on them, which are fully developed. Excess defective shoots are removed completely. Only healthy branches growing in the hydrangea should remain in the right direction. They are the basis of the bush and will create its shape. By forming the crown every spring for several years in a row, you can get a particularly beautiful plant.

With proper pruning, the gardener receives a bush that is characterized by lush flowering and neatness. A hydrangea that has not been shaped will look disheveled, since some of its stems will have the wrong direction of growth, and its shape will also be far from ideal.

Care after pruning

Cut hydrangea requires follow-up proper care. It involves watering and fertilizing. Stimulation of the growth of young shoots by pruning occurs with increased consumption of minerals and organic matter by the plant, which are added to the soil. Bird droppings will provide organic matter, and ash will provide mineral components. You can also use special complex fertilizers. Watering is carried out once a week in wet weather, and daily in dry weather.

By regularly pruning his hydrangea correctly, the gardener receives abundant flowering and very large inflorescences every year. Without proper care, the flowers will become smaller, and the bush will not be able to please with its elegance and attractiveness. In addition, it will become untidy and fallen apart, which will give the garden a somewhat abandoned look.

More clear example You can watch hydrangea trimmings in the following video:

Pruning tree hydrangea (H.arborescens)

This type of hydrangea is characterized by large flat inflorescences, colored first in a greenish tint, then turning into white and then pink. Caring for tree hydrangea consists mostly of autumn pruning. Next year's buds form on the current year's shoots. Shelter for wintering is necessary in the presence of young shoots and severe cold winter. The plant has the ability to quickly form shoots and also has a large number of zero shoots. Usually not formed by a certain form crowns, grows like a free-growing shrub. After planting, the branches are most often shortened a little for better formation and growth of the plant. There are usually many inflorescences on the shoots of the current year, and there is abundant flowering. These shoots of the current year appeared both on all shoots of the previous year (along their entire length), and on older shoots, on underground shoots. They are called zeros. Some of the strongest zero shoots may bloom.

In autumn, only dry inflorescences are cut off.
In the spring, they do sanitary pruning, cutting off thin, weak, frozen, damaged and dried shoots. Shoots 1 year old are pruned, leaving 3 to 5 buds, from which new strong shoots with large inflorescences will later appear. The regrowth of shoots occurs quickly; already in the same year they will grow and bloom even more luxuriantly. In case of severe pruning from 2 to 3 buds, flowering becomes more sparse. And it starts later, at the end of July.

Tree hydrangea, pruning diagram. On the left is pruning in the fall, on the right in the spring.

Thinning pruning is also necessary. This is the removal of shoots that thicken the bush (small shoots growing in the center, weakened zero shoots that are not capable of flowering).

There is pruning of hydrangeas for flowering. This is pruning of the previous year's growth, leaving 2 to 4 pairs of well-formed buds. Strong flowering shoots will appear from them this season. Often, due to a harsh winter, it is necessary to prune a lot of frozen shoots, then the main and only pruning will be sanitary.

In the first four years of a young bush's life, pruning is not done. Plant shoots in a young plant serve to form the root system and increase its mass. In the spring, hydrangea begins to have strong sap flow; when pruning a young bush, a fragile plant can lose a lot of sap and die. If you still need to trim some shoots, then it is better to remove them when the leaves of the plant have already blossomed.

In the case of rejuvenating pruning of an old tree hydrangea bush (carried out once every 5-7 years), in the spring it is cut off completely, all shoots older than 5 years, leaving stumps 10 cm high. Large, very old plants are not recommended to be pruned in one pruning. Otherwise, there is a high probability of plant death due to lack of nutrition in its root system. It is better to do anti-aging pruning three times over three years.

If you need to get cuttings from a tree hydrangea, then they should be harvested when the plant’s sap flow begins. Otherwise, the cut cuttings will not take root well.

Ash hydrangeas, motley hydrangeas and a number of other hydrangeas similar in appearance are pruned in the same way.

The photo shows a tree hydrangea.

Pruning panicle hydrangea (H.paniculata)

Description and main types of pruning

Externally, the bush looks like a tree hydrangea. But the plant is more spreading and powerful. Flowering on the shoots of the current year, in the form of cone-shaped inflorescences. New shoots are formed from all buds on branches that are 2-3 years old. Tolerates cold well harsh winters. The buds of the next year's paniculate hydrangea, like those of the tree hydrangea, are formed on the shoots of the current one. Usually paniculata hydrangea is not covered for wintering. The plant has a high ability to form shoots. The ability to form zero shoots is reduced. And the plant can be formed either in the form of a bush or in the form of a tree.

In autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut back to the first pair of buds. You cannot leave dry inflorescences for the winter, otherwise, under the weight of snow, they may break or deform (the wood of paniculate hydrangea is delicate and fragile), bend down, and in the future it will be necessary to tie up the plant so that it straightens vertically.

In the spring (March) they do the basic sanitary pruning, cutting off thin, weak, frozen, damaged and dried shoots. Annual shoots are trimmed, leaving 3 to 5 buds. Remove small shoots that thicken the bush, and leave a couple of strong shoots on large ones. The more massive the shoot, the more buds you need to leave on it in order to get strong and strong branches and abundant flowering in the future. Up to a pair of awakened buds, you can also refresh the cut left in the fall after removing the inflorescences. Paniculata hydrangea thickens quickly, and the number of branches and inflorescences increases every year. This can lead to weakening of branches and shrinking of inflorescences. Therefore, in the spring, shortening all last year’s shoots is encouraged; this has a beneficial effect on flowering. Proper formation of the young plant is necessary, as well as systematic annual pruning adult plants. When pruning, a beautiful, neat crown of the bush is formed. At correct execution all recommendations, every year the flowering will only become more abundant and luxuriant.

Paniculata hydrangea. On the left is pruning in the fall. On the right is pruning in the spring.

In the case of rejuvenating pruning, from shoots growing from one point, a couple of shoots growing outward are left, the rest are cut off.

In many ways, pruning paniculate hydrangea depends on the shape that needs to be given to the plant: standard with an erect or drooping crown, bush or bush with a raised crown.

Formation of the standard form of paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

Paniculata hydrangea is often confused with tree hydrangea, since paniculata has long-lasting, woody branches and skeletal shoots. Pruning tree hydrangea occurs like pruning a bush, and pruning paniculata occurs like pruning a tree, and its formation is possible both in the form of a bush and in the form of a standard tree. In plants aged 5-7 years, the buds on the lower branches practically do not awaken. This feature of paniculate hydrangea makes it possible to form it into a tree.

To form a tree, you need to select a seedling with a pronounced stem. In the spring, a young plant (2-3 years old) must select one upright shoot. This will serve as the trunk of the standard tree. It must be tied to the support without damaging or distorting it, strictly in a vertical position. In summer, side shoots form on the tree; they need to be pinched. They are not deleted, because they serve in the formation of the tree trunk as food. Thus, the trunk of the trunk thickens, strengthens, and next spring they are cut into a ring. As the tree reaches the desired height (from 0.5 to 1.5 meters), it is necessary to prune it, this is how the height of the beginning of its branching is formed. Next, a crown is formed from last year's shoots.

Exist various varieties With different characteristics, growth rate. By selecting a certain variety of paniculate hydrangea, you can form a standard tree with both a drooping and an upright crown. Forming a paniculate hydrangea with a drooping crown, the future trunk standard tree cut at 1.5 meters. When forming a plant with an upright crown, the future trunk of the tree is cut to 1 meter. For the formation of a “weeping”, descending crown of hydrangea, the most suitable varieties will be “Grandiflora”, “Limelight”, for the formation of an upright crown - the varieties “Kyushu” or “Tardiva” ( "Tardiva")

In the future, pruning the plant consists of shortening the skeletal branches by 2-3 buds every year, until the desired shape crowns Root shoots are cut off as they appear. Also, faded, faded inflorescences and shoots up to the first pair of buds are cut off for abundant flowering next season. Damaged branches and zero shoots are systematically removed, lateral shoots on the trunk are pinched this year, and they are cut out next year. After a couple of decades, a standard tree with a trunk from 8 to 10 cm in diameter is obtained. If desired, you can form a tree with several main trunks. This type of trunk is very strong and stable. A standard panicle hydrangea tree, a “bouquet on a leg,” will serve as a decoration for a personal plot, a beautiful and unusual accent in garden decoration.

Formation of a bush form in paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

When planting, the seedling is buried 3-4 cm. This promotes the emergence of several shoots from the ground at once. Then the weak zero shoots are cut out, leaving the strong ones. The bush is formed by shortening the growth of the previous year, leaving from 1 to 3 pairs of buds. Excess, thickening branches are removed, and as the bush thickens, the inflorescences become smaller. To form and maintain paniculate hydrangea in the form of a bush, sanitary pruning is mainly necessary. To achieve stronger shoots and larger inflorescences, you can cut weak, woody shoots into a ring. This will be to the detriment of flowering, but large individual branches and inflorescences will form.

By pruning paniculate hydrangea in the form of a bush, you can get a beautiful and useful decorative element - a living, free-growing hedge that will delight you not only with its lush flowering, but also with its density.

Formation of a bush form with a raised crown in paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

In the spring, weak, damaged, thickening branches are removed from a 2-3 year old plant. Leave from 3 to 5 strong shoots growing at an angle of 30 degrees from the vertical position. Next, they are fixed to the supports, which should also be installed at an angle of 30 degrees. This promotes the development and formation of plant branches in the right direction. Every year it is necessary to remove new lower shoots from the ring, leaving only the apical and 2-3 pairs of upper buds. These kidneys are in next year they will run away. The central shoot will form new buds above the developed shoots, which will become the top shoots next year. With the onset of the new season, these upper buds are left, cutting off the side shoots formed in the previous year into a ring. Systematically, throughout the summer, all young shoots (without waiting for their lignification) that form on the central, below 2-3 pairs of upper buds are removed. Trimming and shaping must be done every year until the required height of the central conductors is achieved. On average, the required plant height is formed within 2-3 years. When the shoots reach a length of one meter, they are cut off, forming a frame skeleton of the crown. Formative and sanitary pruning is done every year throughout the life of the plant.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangea (H. macrophylla)

Large-leaved hydrangea is a typical shrub. Zero shoots are formed throughout life. Shoots 4-6 years old become old. Flowering occurs on the inflorescences of current shoots formed on last year's shoots. Flower buds form on the upper third of the branch. Not so long ago, varieties were developed that form buds on the entire shoot. Therefore, pruning should be correct, minimal, careful and gentle. The less you prune large-leaved hydrangea, the more abundant its flowering. This is a heat-loving plant, and its flowering depends largely on wintering. The bush needs to be well covered for the winter with an air-dry shelter.

In autumn, it is better not to prune, just remove faded inflorescences.
In spring, sanitary pruning is carried out. You cannot prune last year's shoots, because... flower buds are located on them. Young one-year-old shoots are left. Remove dried, damaged branches onto the ring. You need to cut carefully with pruning shears, at a right angle. To avoid deformation and damage to the kidneys. If you cut off more than 1-2 buds, the plant may not bloom. Systematically remove 1/4 of the old shoots that have many lateral shoots and branches to avoid thickening of the bush. Pruning such skeletal shoots encourages the growth of new branches from the base of the plant. This pruning is carried out immediately after flowering. Flower buds form on the newly formed shoots, which will bloom in the new season.

Anti-aging pruning is necessary every 4-5 years. The branches are cut at a height of 30-40 cm from ground level. This gives renewal to the plant, promotes the growth of new shoots and further flowering. Also completely cut off branches that have a curved shape, are inclined, or cross. This creates a beautiful compact bush shape.

Large-leaved hydrangea. On the left is pruning in the fall. On the right is pruning in the spring.

The photo shows the large-leaved hydrangea "Rotschwanz".

Among large-leaved hydrangeas you can sometimes find varietal characteristics, varieties that tolerate heavy pruning, even to ground level. For example, the variety “Endless Summer”, with very strong pruning, blooms on new shoots, on the current growth. In this case, the flowering is single and occurs late, at the end of summer (August). If you prune hydrangeas of this variety moderately, flowering occurs more abundantly and occurs earlier (late July). Among large-leaved hydrangeas, there are varieties that can bloom on zero shoots - “Forever and ever”, “Hovaria Miral”.

Care after pruning

After pruning, the plant needs fertilizing with minerals and organic fertilizers. After pruning, the base of the bush is mulched with compost, peat, manure, humus (about 5 cm). Spring feeding hydrangea stimulates the growth and development of new shoots, promotes flowering. In the summer, it is advisable to fertilize with chicken manure diluted with water in proportions of 1:10.

By following the rules for pruning and shaping hydrangeas, depending on the characteristics of the variety, you can bring to life any bold idea. design solution using this vibrant and lush plant. Hydrangea will delight everyone with her abundant flowering and dense foliage crown.

The type of hydrangea determines the method and time of its pruning, selected so as not to cut off the flower buds. All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups. The first group includes those that bloom on last year's shoots.

They don’t really need formative pruning; cosmetic and sanitary intervention is quite enough.

This group includes hydrangea large-leaved, serrated, Sargent, oak-leaved and petiolate. However, be careful: in some varieties of each species, flowers are laid differently from the rest of its representatives.

Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas

A group of hydrangeas that bloom on new growth form buds that grow and bloom in the same year, usually blooming later than other hydrangeas - from midsummer until the first frost. They do not suffer too much if pruning is not done at a certain time; they just don't do it late spring, early summer and when the buds are still open. This group includes paniculate and tree hydrangeas.

Hydrangea paniculata is the most popular in garden culture. Last year's shoots annually form new flowering branches, which are not always strong, so everything unnecessary is cut out from an adult plant. To form a bush, paniculata hydrangea is allowed to grow using zero shoots. Weak branches coming out of the ground are cut out, leaving stronger ones for flowering.

Our advice

General sanitary pruning is carried out in early spring, before bud break. If you prune later, the plant may get sick and may not even bloom this year. Weak and interfering shoots are removed at the root. Rejuvenation pruning is carried out by cutting branches onto perennial wood or “to the stump”.

Timing for pruning

Pruning of hydrangea paniculata shoots is done at the end of winter, before the emergence of buds, in early spring - in March, before the leaves bloom (main pruning), or in late autumn, at a temperature not exceeding +5...+ 10 C.

In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off, reducing branch breaking. Sometimes part of the main pruning is postponed to autumn: if you need specimens on stronger shoots, but with smaller flowers.

A frost-resistant plant in a protected place (veranda) is pruned in late autumn: this is safe and ensures luxurious flowering next year.

On a note

Pruning paniculate hydrangea largely depends on the shape that needs to be given to the plant: bush, bush with a raised crown, standard with an erect or drooping crown.

Winter and spring pruning of hydrangeas

Since shrubs form inflorescences on new shoots, they are pruned in late winter ( best time for pruning), before growth begins, shortening the shoots by 1/3. Winter pruning promotes the formation of larger flowers.

In early spring, the shrub is given sanitary, rejuvenating, thinning and shaping pruning. In the new season, long shoots will appear from the remaining buds, the ends of which are decorated with inflorescences.

Autumn procedures

In cold climates, gardeners are afraid to radically prune hydrangeas for the winter: wounds remain on the branches and shoots that do not have time to heal before the onset of cold weather, which makes the plant vulnerable to frost.

If you prune completely and leave the plant in this form for the winter, moisture and infections that get into the wounds will lead to cell death. In the fall, it is safe to prune dried inflorescences on adult plants - this is also true if the plant is covered for the winter.

During heavy snowfalls, numerous inflorescences are dangerous for the bush: under the weight of the snow, the wood becomes deformed, breaks off, or the shoots bend to the ground; in the spring they will have to be tied up so that they get used to growing vertically again.

Hydrangea pruning diagram

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When growing hydrangea, it is important to know how to properly care for the flower.

The need and procedure for preparing a garden bush depend on:

• climatic features of the area;
• varietal winter hardiness;
• plant age.

Gardening work should be carried out taking into account the above factors. The correct choice of shelter method affects the well-being of overwintered hydrangeas.

How to properly prepare hydrangea for wintering

Not every garden plant is able to survive the winter season on its own. The winter hardiness of hydrangeas increases with age. Annual bushes are always insulated for the winter, since they root system most vulnerable.

Improper heating leads to the following consequences:

• delayed vegetation;
• lack of flowering;
• death of the specimen.

Knowing how to prepare hydrangea for winter, you can avoid negative consequences and enjoy the abundant flowering of the queen of the garden. Preparing hydrangea for winter begins in early autumn.

From the beginning of September, they stop applying fertilizers and reduce watering to a minimum.

With the onset of leaf fall, the plant is freed from leaf cover to speed up the outflow nutrients to the roots. Fallen leaves must be removed. Upper layer soils are loosened to a depth of five to seven centimeters. This will help get rid of garden pests, will improve soil aeration and create a thermally insulating “air cushion”.

Do I need to prune hydrangeas for the winter?

Pruning the above-ground part has a number of rules, compliance with which will help to avoid fatal mistakes. Garden work carried out with the onset of the first frost. Mandatory pruning is indicated only for one- to two-year-old shrubs. Aboveground part it is necessary to remove almost completely, leaving 10-15 centimeters.

Most gardeners prune shrubs to make replanting and covering work more comfortable. It is necessary to take into account the variety and age of the plant so as not to deprive it of the opportunity to bloom in the next season. You can safely prune varieties that produce flower stalks on annual shoots.

You should not prune hydrangea varieties whose flowering buds are formed on last year's shoots. It is better to prune these bushes in the spring.

Pruning is the final stage of preparation, which is carried out before covering the hydrangea for the winter.

When to cover hydrangea for the winter

Insulation of the garden should begin after stable frosts have established. In temperate climates, Indian summer ends in early to mid-October. Evidence of persistent frosts is the complete shedding of leaves by garden and park trees. At this time, the final gardening work begins.

You need to prepare first Consumables, the list of which may vary depending on the method of insulation and local traditions.

Most gardeners use:

• Garden soil, sand, sawdust;
• Dry leaves of park trees;
• Spruce spruce branches, pine needles;
• Boards, wooden boxes, wicker baskets;
• Polyethylene, burlap, lutrasil, roofing felt, agrospan.

You will also need: wire, tape, twine, stones or bricks.

How to cover a hydrangea for the winter

Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter is carried out in two stages. Measures to insulate the root system and above-ground parts of the plant differ in the method and materials used. Young hydrangeas “dress” warmer than adult bushes. Older plants are insulated only in areas with severe winters.

Five-year-old hydrangeas can safely withstand prolonged temperatures down to -25°C.
The roots are protected by an additional layer of soil, pine needles, sawdust or sand. It is required to build a mound of three to five buckets of bulk material. The mound can be lightly compacted by hand. Poisonous food for small rodents is placed in the rosette of branches. After this, they begin to work with the above-ground part.

There are several ways to protect the branched part of the plant:

• horizontal or ground;
• vertical or standard.

The first method is considered less expensive, although it requires more effort. The second is more suitable for areas with heavy snowfall. The choice of the optimal option depends on the age of the hydrangea and the characteristics of the local climate. The method of horizontal insulation requires an appropriate position of the above-ground part.

Hydrangea has highly flexible branches that do not break when bent. It is extremely important to gently tilt them towards the ground without using brute force. The branches are fixed in a horizontal position using wire staples, boards, stones or bricks. Some gardeners collect the bush into a bundle, tie it loosely with twine, which is already attached to the board.

Mature hydrangeas growing in temperate climate gardens can be planted quite high.
Insulation measures garden plants consist of creating layers of different materials in certain properties. The first layer should always consist of a loose, breathable material. This is followed by a waterproofing material that protects against getting wet. The formation of an ice crust on the branches is extremely undesirable. Thermal insulation materials used for the last, third layer.

The main rules of horizontal insulation

The horizontal insulation method comes down to the following rules:

1. The branches of young hydrangeas are laid only on previously covered ground. The bedding is made of dry leaves, straw, spruce branches, and pine needles. The material must be dry, without signs of mold.
2. A warm pillow of bedding material is placed on top. This way, the branches of the bush end up inside loose material, which allows air to pass freely and prevents the formation of mold.
3. The waterproofing layer is made of polyethylene or similar materials. The coverage area should be several larger size loose layer. The edges of the film are fixed using long boards, stones or bricks. This layer will protect the branches and loose layer from getting wet during cold rains or thaws.
4. Finally, the structure is covered with burlap and thermoplastic. Many gardeners use pieces of old rugs and rugs to create an additional layer of insulation.

On the eve of bitter frosts, you can further insulate the hydrangea by throwing more snow on it.

Vertical insulation of hydrangeas for the winter

The vertical structure is used to insulate old bushes. It is also appropriate to resort to such a structure if the climate is characterized by harsh winters with heavy snowfalls. Hydrangea can “suffocate” under too thick a layer of snow and vertical insulation will eliminate the undesirable wintering scenario.
A feature of vertical insulation is the construction of a frame around the bush.

Actions are carried out in the following order:

1. The branches are pre-tied, but not bent to the ground.
2. The soil is covered with a layer of spruce branches or pine needles to repel rodents. Poisoned food is also laid out.
3. Plants are installed around metal mesh or old boxes, forming a closed perimeter. You can use plastic vegetable containers. Some gardeners build a wicker frame from flexible branches and wire.
4. The internal space is filled to the top with dry leaves, straw, spruce branches, and sawdust. Periodically, the loose material is lightly crushed.
5. The outer surface of the frame is covered with polyethylene or other waterproofing material. The top of the “stand” is also covered with film.

The final layer is made of roofing felt, old bags, rugs or reed mats.

When to remove insulation from garden plants

Inexperienced gardeners often rush to start gardening chores on the first fine days, which causes them to make a huge mistake. Hydrangeas should not be exposed to the risk of return frosts. It is much safer to gradually free the bush from its protective covers.

It is extremely important to clear the insulated mound of snow during a thaw to avoid the formation of an airtight crust.
Burlap and polyethylene are removed if night frosts do not fall below -10°C within one to two weeks.