Content:

To install heating batteries in an apartment yourself, you need to choose the right type, decide on the type of wiring and connection diagram, and then follow the rules.

Do-it-yourself heating radiator installation - Photo

Defects in the heating system of an apartment can occur for many reasons, which may be impossible to eliminate without replacing the batteries. Then one of the most acceptable solutions would be to install heating radiators yourself. This is not a simple matter and requires strict adherence to technology and rules, as well as accuracy and at least minimal skills in handling simple tools, such as a level, different types keys, drill, screwdriver, etc. Equally important is the use quality materials and ideas on how to install the battery.

The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

Stage 1. Preparatory. It includes quite a lot of actions, each of which is very important.

You should start with theory, only then will replacing heating radiators in an apartment be successful, and there will be no need to immediately correct the mistakes made.

Radiator wiring methods and their connection diagrams

Methods for laying heating pipes - Photo

You should start by studying the methods of wiring batteries and choosing the most appropriate one. existing options:

Monotube or sequential . It is the simplest from the point of view of its design, which is a definite plus for people who have decided to do such work for the first time and are not very versed in how to install the battery.

The coolant flows sequentially to all heating devices and returns through the same pipe. It has the following significant disadvantages:

• The final battery with such a scheme most often does not warm up enough;
• there is no possibility of controlling the temperature regime of each radiator;
• To repair or replace the battery, you will have to disconnect the entire riser.

ADVICE. Install a bypass, which will allow you to turn off only those radiators that are equipped with this device.

Two-pipe . This option is somewhat more difficult than the previous one, but it is possible to cope with it with your own hands, you just need to put in maximum effort and diligence.

Here it is used parallel connection, when the coolant is supplied to each radiator and returns already cooled through another, called return.

Among the advantages of this option: the ability to regulate the degree of heating of the battery using thermostats, the room warms up more evenly, and repairs are much easier, since you can turn off any of the devices separately without involving the entire system in the process.

See also:

Aluminum radiators are the leaders among all heating devices. They are distinguished by high ergonomic and thermal performance indicators. The best manufacturers The market includes ROMMER Rifar, Global, Sira Industrie...

Collector . It is not used for apartments and is also the most difficult to implement. Therefore, we will not dwell on it in detail.

battery connection diagrams in the apartment - Photo

Of no less importance is connection diagram. They are selected taking into account design features apartments, existing system heating and some other factors. Let's look at the features of each option:

• The most common connection type is one-sided lateral . It has good heat transfer, but if multi-section radiators are used in the apartment, then insufficient heating of those sections that are located on the edge is possible. Correcting this deficiency is not at all difficult - you need to install an extension cord for the water flow.
• Lower. This method is advisable if the heating pipes pass under the baseboard or are built into the floor. The hot water supply and return pipes are located at the very bottom of the battery and are directed vertically downwards, which does not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the room. However, heat loss can reach very significant values ​​- up to 15%.
• Diagonal . This option is preferable if radiators have 12 or more sections. Here, the pipe with the hot medium is connected to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is connected to the lower pipe, located on its side. reverse side. Heat loss do not exceed 5%. However, this figure will double if the connection points of the return and main pipes are swapped.

Taking into account the characteristics of your home, as well as your preferences, you can choose the most suitable type of connection. In case of serious doubts, you can seek professional advice.

Selection of heating devices (radiators)

When installing heating radiators with your own hands, it is important to choose correctly which of the many available on the market today are suitable for specific conditions. Let's look at the most interesting and popular types:

Cast iron. The advantages of such familiar heating devices include: durability, good heat transfer, unpretentiousness. However, to ensure good heating of the room, such batteries must have quite a large number of sections that are not so easy to assemble.

There are also features of fixing such batteries in houses built from different materials. For example, if the walls are made of wood, in addition to supporting fasteners, you will need a support stand.

Aluminum . Fits into interiors different styles and have good heat dissipation and low weight. Perfect for installing heating radiators with your own hands.

Steel batteries . These corrosion-resistant heating devices are characterized by good heat transfer and high level performance characteristics. Other advantages include low price and ease of installation.

Bimetallic . Such batteries look very attractive, have high heat transfer, are light in weight, and do not require special maintenance.

Aluminum heating radiator - Photo

Choosing the most suitable type of radiators you need calculate the required number of sections. It is better to find out all the necessary values ​​from the specialists of the store where you plan to purchase these devices.

ADVICE. In accordance with the good, but old rules, one section is enough for high-quality heating of 2 m2, if the ceiling height does not exceed 2.7 m. This calculation does not reflect technical characteristics modern types radiators, as well as the specific conditions that last years have changed significantly. Therefore, such a calculation can only be taken as a very rough guide.

Stage 2. Preparation of documents, purchasing the necessary parts and materials.

Heating in the apartment is part of a single centralized system and in order to drain the coolant, it will be necessary to turn off the entire house. Coordination of such actions with government agencies is prerequisite . If you try to install heating radiators with your own hands without permission, you may be subject to administrative liability in the form of a fine.

ADVICE. Design permits It is advisable to do this in advance as it will take some time for a decision to be made on your application.

To install batteries in an apartment correctly and quickly enough you will need:

• Brackets, which are selected according to the type of materials of the walls of the apartment. Their number is calculated based on the rule: at least one bracket for every meter of battery area.
• Shut-off valves. When installing heating radiators with your own hands, without having experience in performing such work, preference should be given to radiator-type products.
• Sgony. They are used to connect batteries to a heating system without welding or wiring. They must match the size of the battery and the thread of the pipes used.
• Adapters, couplings, Mayevsky cranes, tow, sealing tape etc.

Stage 3. Selecting a location and rules for installing batteries.

Do-it-yourself battery installation in an apartment - Photo

After the old batteries have been removed, you can proceed to marking the mounts for the new ones. It is very important here to know how to install the battery so that the indoor microclimate is pleasant.

There is nothing complicated: radiators are installed in places where there is a significant temperature difference - near doors and windows.

Exists whole line rules on how to properly install batteries, which should be strictly followed:

The slope of the liner elements should be at least 0.005, but it is better if this figure is twice as large. It is most advisable to measure it along the length of the pipes, based on the calculation that each meter should be tilted 0.5 cm in the direction of coolant circulation.
The distances from the battery to other surfaces should be:
o to the floor - 6-10 cm;
o to the window sill - 5-10 cm;
o to the wall - 3-5 cm.
Strict adherence to horizontal and vertical when installing a heating device, not “by eye”, but using a level.

ADVICE. Install a heat-reflecting shield behind the radiator or cover the wall with similar material. This will improve battery performance and improve the microclimate without extra costs.

• The centers of the window opening and the battery must coincide. A slight displacement is possible - no more than 2 cm, which is not visually noticeable.
• Radiators in the same room should be placed at the same level, which is technologically advanced and looks aesthetically attractive.

Stage 4. Final. Installation of batteries and connection to the riser.

Before you begin installing radiators, you need to install brackets for what:

• Mark their placement points, which are selected taking into account the installation rules;
• Holes are drilled in the wall, where dowels are installed and fasteners are screwed in, which you purchase or make yourself.

All that remains is to install the battery itself so that it rests tightly on each mount and connect it to the system.

Connecting battery sections requires special tools and some skill, so it is wiser to order this work to be done in a store. You can easily assemble the installation kit yourself.

To connect the battery to the heating system, a threaded connection is used, and then the joints are sealed using tow, and welding is also used.

Installation of aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators video

Other options are possible if, when creating heating system Metal-plastic or propylene pipes are installed.

Now you have an idea of ​​how to install a heating battery, and if you wish, you can easily handle this work yourself.

Comfortable conditions Living in a country cottage cannot be created without a high-quality heating system. It must be efficient and economical enough to heating season V living rooms It was warm, and energy costs were not too high. To achieve this, you need to choose the right type of heating system, and then select the most suitable option connecting heating radiators in a private house.

Types of heating systems

The heating system in a private house can be:

air;

electrical;

Air system

This option operates without coolant. The air in the house is heated directly from heating devices - stoves or convectors. With this system, heating radiators are not used. Air heating convenient for heating compact country houses. For large cottages it is used extremely rarely.

Electrical system

In such a system, heat is transferred through current conductors. Electric underfloor heating works on this principle. Heating with electrical system may be quite convenient. But its arrangement requires increased attention to safety rules, and during operation it is expensive for home owners.

Water system

A type of heating system in which heat is transferred through water (sometimes steam) as a coolant. The coolant flows from the heating device through pipes to the heating radiators. This option is considered the most convenient and practical. Most often in country houses heating is arranged in this way.

Types of heating boilers

The central element of the heating system is the boiler - a heating device in which the coolant reaches desired temperature. The heating connection diagram in a private house largely depends on what kind of boiler is used in it.

According to their purpose, boilers are divided into double-circuit and single-circuit. The first option is equipment designed for both heating and water heating. A single-circuit boiler heats only the heating medium. According to the installation method, they are divided into floor and wall.

Boilers also differ in the type of fuel with which the coolant is heated. There are boilers of the following types:

• electrical;

  solid fuel;

  liquid fuel;

  combined.

To operate solid fuel boilers, coal, firewood, and less often peat and other types of solid combustible materials are used. As liquid fuel For boilers of the corresponding type, diesel or waste oils are used.

Most country cottages are heated gas boilers. In non-gasified areas, heating with electricity is often used. Solid fuel and liquid fuel boilers are completely independent of communication networks. The first option is more attractive because it requires traditional firewood and coal, rather than dangerous flammable liquids.

The most prudent homeowners install in their homes combi boilers, designed to work on different types fuel. For example, you can install an electric boiler, complemented by a combustion chamber for solid fuel so that in the event of a power failure, switch to wood heating.

Double-circuit boilers that provide the home with heat and warm water, this is predominantly gas devices. They are universal, as they eliminate the need for homeowners to purchase and install a separate water heating boiler.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services

Heating radiator design

The heating radiator consists of several heat exchange sections. The more sections, the correspondingly higher the battery power. There are models of radiators that can be “expanded” with new sections, if necessary, already during operation.

One collector passes through all sections at the top and one at the bottom. Each section has a vertical channel connecting the upper and lower manifold. This applies to all sections, including the outer ones. Therefore, the radiator has 4 outputs, but only two of them are used. One is connected to the coolant supply pipe, and the second is used to drain cooled water back into the boiler. Unused outputs are closed with plugs. This is how most radiators are designed.

Types of pipe system

In the heating system diagram, the relative position of the coolant supply inlet and the return outlet is of fundamental importance. This depends on the direction of the coolant and the type of pipe system.

Single pipe system

This is a simplified option for arranging heating in a cottage. This option is quite economical, as it requires wiring less pipes and is performed with less labor costs installation work. The system is a chain of radiators connected by one pipe. The coolant heated in the boiler enters each radiator in turn, flowing from one to another. That is, the “return” from one battery becomes the feed for the next, etc.

The single-pipe scheme for connecting heating radiators in a private house has one significant drawback - with it, the radiators heat up unevenly. The first radiator will always be the hottest, and further from battery to battery the temperature will gradually decrease. Therefore, it is impossible to maintain the same temperature in all rooms with single-pipe heating.

For certain layout features, a single-pipe system may be quite suitable. So, if in small house the chain of radiators will start from living rooms and end with technical rooms; this option may turn out to be optimal. But in spacious cottages it is better to install two-pipe heating.

Two-pipe system

A more expensive option to install, but simple and easy to use. In this system, two pipe lines operate simultaneously. The first supplies hot water to each battery. That is, there is one pipe going into each radiator. The coolant, before entering the radiator, regardless of its location in the circuit, does not enter neighboring radiators, but goes directly. The second pipe collects the return from all radiators and delivers it to the heating manifold.

The advantages of the bottom type of wiring are that almost the same temperature is achieved at all heat exchange points. Such a system is better adjustable and ensures uniform heating of the entire building.

Beam (collector) system

The collector circuit is a variant of a two-pipe connection, but with more complex wiring. It is used in cases where it is necessary to hide pipes, for example under a floor covering. In this case, two collectors are installed - for the supply and for the return, and from each radiator one pipe extends into the first collector, and another one into the second.

Some connection schemes use two types of system. The entire house can be heated using the two-pipe principle, but for a separate area, such as a veranda or large living room, a combination of several radiators using the single-pipe principle is used. When developing a two-pipe scheme for connecting heating radiators in a private house, the main thing is not to get confused in the supply and return manifolds.

Connection diagram of radiators to the heating system

The coolant moves through the pipes and channels of the batteries due to two factors. The first is the desire of the liquid to fill the voids. With absence air jams a natural dynamic coolant pressure is created. The second factor is the movement of flows of different temperatures. Hot water tends upward, displacing cold water into the lower flow.

Diagonal top connection

Diagonal connection of radiators with top supply allows you to arrange the most efficient heating premises. Hot water is supplied to the upper entrance, inside it is distributed into sections, and, cooling, falls down, after which it is forced out into the lower entrance into the return manifold, located on the other side of the radiator.

Two-way bottom connection

The supply is carried out into the lower inlet on one side, and the return comes out of the lower inlet on the other side of the battery. The efficiency in this case is lower than in the previous version. But this connection allows you to hide the pipes as much as possible.

One way bottom top connection

Mainly used in multi-storey buildings. In cottages of 2 or 3 floors with single-pipe heating is also sometimes used. The difference between the bottom and top connections is that in the first case hot water is supplied to the lower inlet and discharged under pressure through the upper inlet, and in the second case the opposite happens. In both cases, the plant and coolant outlet are located on one side. It is worth noting that of all the existing options, the one-way bottom connection is the most ineffective.

Video description

Which radiator connection system to choose?

Other options

Theoretically, it can also be used diagonal connection with bottom feed or two-way connection with top feed. These two options will also work if done correctly. However, the functioning of the system will be greatly hampered due to the intersection of flows. Therefore, it is better not to experiment and take a diagonal top connection or a double-sided bottom connection as a basis.

Radiator location

For high-quality heating of a cottage, you need not only to choose the right heating scheme, but also to correctly position the radiators in the rooms. Installation of heating batteries in a private house is carried out on the basis of calculations made by specialists. The number of radiators and sections for each radiator is determined taking into account various factors:

volume of premises;

level of heat loss of the building;

radiator insert diagram;

at what height the batteries will be installed, and much more.

Video description

Radiators are usually located under windows. This creates a barrier to the cold air flow coming from the window. In addition, the air coming from the window opening is “dried” by the heat from the radiator, as a result, condensation does not collect on surfaces in the room. The battery should be slightly narrower than the window, and it should be placed centrally relative to the window opening.

The radiator must not be adjacent top part to the window sill, since this complicates the process of heat distribution. There should be about 100 mm from the floor to the bottom level of the battery. A higher location will lead to the fact that the air directly above the floor will not warm up well. If you install radiators too low, it will be difficult to remove accumulated dust underneath them.

When planning the installation of batteries, it is necessary to take into account the features of the wall. Modern batteries are not very heavy, but in some cases the characteristics of the wall require reinforcement of the surface on which the bracket for the heating elements will be mounted.

Video description

Installation of heating radiators

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer water supply installation services, sewerage and heating. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Conclusion

The process of calculation, design and installation of a heating system can only be trusted by qualified specialists. But the most simple rules Every homeowner should know how to connect radiators. Efficient connection and placement principle heating equipment- this is a guarantee that a favorable and comfortable microclimate will always reign in the house.

Replacing heating radiators yourself or even installing heating radiators from scratch is not so much a complicated process as it is a painstaking one. What a plumber can do in a couple of hours may take an amateur several days. However, do-it-yourself work will stimulate new achievements, save a considerable amount of money and may even bring pleasure, especially if you prepare for the process in advance and provide for all the subtleties.

When is the best time to install batteries?

The installation of heating radiators, unless it is an emergency, of course, should take place in the off-season. The centralized heating is turned off in the spring, for several days - a couple of weeks the utility companies drain the water from the system and will only recharge it in the fall. In general, the time to install radiators is from April to October.

In a house with its own heating or an apartment in which there is always water in the system, work on installing batteries should begin with emptying the heating system. At the same time, you can think about what batteries you need to buy.

It is important! If you are going to install new batteries in place of old ones, then you need to choose those that are identical in size to the previous ones. And for the parts that will be needed during installation, it is also important what kind of heating system in the house is one-pipe or two-pipe.

How to choose batteries?

There are four metals from which heating radiators are made:

1. Pure cast iron.
2. High quality steel.
3. Aluminum.
4. Connection of steel (copper) and aluminum.

To say that any battery will be ideal is wrong.

Cast iron batteries

This is the heaviest metal with a fairly high heat transfer. Cast iron takes longer to warm up than other metals, but also retains heat longer. most often typesetting. One section weighs 10 kilograms (in Soviet models - 12). The cost of one section is 500 – 600 rubles. However designer model may have a price in dollar equivalent, indicated by three or even four digits.

Minimum thermal power one cast iron section 150 W. Operating pressure at a level of 15 Atm. For heating a room with an area of ​​15 m2, with standard height ceilings and one double-glazed window, you need to buy about 10 cast iron sections. Information on how to more correctly calculate the number of battery sections will be provided in the subsection below.

The indisputable advantage of cast iron as a battery metal is that it can withstand coolant temperatures of up to 150 °C and is unpretentious to the composition of the water that will be in the battery.

The disadvantages of cast iron batteries are that they are very heavy and will have to be painted periodically.

Read a detailed review on our website.

Aluminum batteries

Manufacturers claim that aluminum radiators- the most common.

• The main advantage of aluminum is its excellent ability to conduct heat.
• The second advantage is that the most unusual designs heating batteries.
• And one last thing. Relatively inexpensive price.

Aluminum radiators have the highest thermal output. The power of one section is 192 W, the operating pressure is 16 Atm. It means that aluminum battery heats up very quickly.

However, there are also disadvantages. Aluminum battery:

1. Sensitive to pressure changes in the system. Experts say that with a sharp increase in pressure, an aluminum radiator may burst.
2. Requires only purified, softened water. Increased acidity of the liquid leads to faster internal corrosion of the metal.

In general, aluminum radiators are best installed where the quality of the supply water is monitored.

Steel batteries

Steel radiators are not made in the form of sections; these are most often square or rectangular shape. The working pressure here is low - no higher than 8.7 Atm. The power of some manufacturers is stated to be within 20 W. Steel radiators are best used not for central heating.

Advantages of steel batteries:

1. Although small in size, they have high heat transfer. This means that a small battery will warm up a large room very quickly.
2. For high-quality heating of the room, the system should not have very heat coolant.

These two advantages are balanced by disadvantages.

Attention! Steel radiators rust quickly. They must not be installed in rooms with high humidity. To prevent excessive corrosion, in a system where there is steel radiators, there must be shut-off valves for draining water in the off-season.

Bimetallic radiators

The combination of metals can be like this:

1. Steel and aluminum.
2. Copper and aluminum.

The steel or copper core (this is the inside of the battery) heats up quickly and transfers heat to the aluminum (the battery body is made of it). The connection of two metals significantly improves the thermal performance of the radiator. Power bimetallic radiator– 185 W. If the internal part is made of copper, then the rated power should be 200 W.

Advantages:

• Chemical resistance to coolant.
• Increased strength.
• Light weight.
• High heat dissipation.

Flaws:

• High price.

Having decided on the price and quality for which you are willing to pay, it is worth making calculations required quantity radiators.

Calculation of the number of sections for high-quality heating

A comfortable temperature for human life is 18 °C (unless, of course, you are lucky enough to live in Ukraine, where due to the lack of gas it is reduced to 14 °C). This temperature regime can be maintained like this: per 1 m2 of area that is heated, there should be 100 watts of power heating radiator.

The required number of battery sections for comfortable temperature is calculated using the following formula:

S * 100 / P, where

S = room area

P = power of one heating section.

Room area – 15 m2, capacity of one section cast iron battery– 150 W. Means,

15 * 100 / 150 = 10

In total, to heat one room you need 10 sections of a cast iron battery.

Table: example of the number of radiator sections depending on the area of ​​the room

It is necessary to apply certain coefficients that take into account:

1. Ceiling height.
2. Availability of double glazed windows.
3. Number of floors (upper and lower floors have the highest coefficient).
4. Number of windows in the room.
5. Has insulation been done?
6. Where is the room? It is important whether it is angular.

For example, coefficient (K1), which depends on the quality of the windows:

— K1 = 0.85. This is a triple glazed unit.

— K1 = 1. This indicator is for double glazed windows.

— K1 = 1.27. Conventional windows with double glazing and possibly wooden frames.

The K2 coefficient depends on the walls.

K2 = 0.85. New walls with insulation

K2 = 1. Brick walls and insulation.

K2 = 1.27. Panel house with walls without insulation.

Table of required heat supply radiator power

Calculation. To obtain the number of sections, divide the data from the table by the power of one section of the selected radiator (kW).

This is an incomplete list of coefficients. But the ratio of digital indicators and, for example, ceiling height or heating quality is the same as in the examples given above. Each of the coefficients is multiplied by the initial number of radiator sections. Ultimately, the result is a battery that will actually heat the space.

Installing a heating radiator

After the literature has been read, advice from experienced people has been received, the size of the radiators and the number of sections in them have been determined, the order has been made and the car with batteries is already on the way, it’s time to prepare what you will not be able to install without.

Preparatory stage

Almost always, batteries are located under the windows. If access to this part of the room is difficult, you need to free up as much space as possible. Move aside the cabinets, put away the TV, take down the curtains.

You need to know this! If you have to remove old batteries, then in any case, at least a little water will leak out of them. It will not be clean, like from a spring, and there is a possibility that the water will stain with rust. flooring, very high. Therefore, it is better to remove carpets and rugs before replacing batteries. And cover the laminate and parquet with a thick film.

When installing batteries you will need:

1. Bypass (if the heating system is single-pipe).
2. Adapters.
3. Couplings.
4. Nipples.
5. Corners.
6. Mayevsky cranes.

Mayevsky valve - for releasing air from radiators, opens using a special key or screwdriver

Sealant, winding, sealing tape, and adjustable wrenches will also not interfere with the work. The remaining parts need to be purchased based on what kind of wiring is installed in the room.

Types of heating wiring

In total, there are 5 main types of wiring:

Options for radiator connection diagrams

Now you need to choose the right distance from the wall and window sill for each battery.

Distances to wall and window sill

In addition to the fact that all nuts and valves need to be tightened tightly (without overdoing it), it is also important to fulfill the following conditions:

• From the top of the battery to the window sill there should be at least 5, and preferably 10–15 centimeters.
• A distance of at least 10–12 centimeters must be maintained from the bottom of the battery to the floor.
• There should be at least 5 centimeters from the radiator to the wall.

Compliance with these rules will allow hot air to circulate better and rise up unhindered.

The house's own boiler room provides year-round coziness and comfort: You can turn on the heat supply at any time in the cold summer, and turn it off when the weather warms up in the spring.

Independence from the whims of utilities and heating supply schedules with CHP is an undeniable advantage autonomous system private house.

Requirements for the location of the radiator in a private house

Radiators need to be installed in places of greatest heat loss in the house (window openings and entrance doors).

As a rule, heating appliances are installed under each window of the home and in the hallway on the wall, Near front door at home, as a thermal curtain and dryer for wet things.

For maximum heat transfer from the heating device, there are the following optimal distances from the radiator:

• To the floor 8-12 cm;
• to the window sill 9-11 cm;
• to the wall 5-6 cm;
• radiator protrusion beyond the window sill 3-5 cm(so that the heat from the radiator warms the window unit).

Requirements for wall and floor construction:

• Wall on which the heating device will be mounted, must be plastered.
• When attaching to a plasterboard wall in it previously install a reinforcing frame made of timber.
• Floor mounts for radiator installed on the finished floor.

Installation Tool:

• Drill or hammer drill,
• Drill 10 mm,
• Hammer,
• Screwdriver for screwing self-tapping screws when using corner brackets,
• Construction level with spirit level or laser,
• Pencil,
• Roulette,
• Radiator spanner made of plastic,
• Key for American.

Connection diagrams

The radiator has holes at the ends for connecting pipes supplying coolant to the radiator and discharging it (return). Exist the following connection diagrams:

Lateral

The coolant supply pipe is connected to the upper hole at the end of the radiator. The coolant passes through all sections from top to bottom and is discharged through a return line connected to the lower hole at the same end.

It is installed in the upper hole at the other end Mayevsky valve for bleeding off excess air. A plug is placed in the remaining lower hole.

• It is used in apartments with a single-pipe coolant supply system.
• Radiator length no more than 1 m(heat loss increases with the number of sections).

Diagonal

The coolant supply is through the upper hole on one side, the return outlet is through the lower hole on the other side of the radiator. The coolant flows diagonally from top to bottom.

• Efficient heat dissipation for any number of sections.
• Allows connect several radiators in series.

Lower and saddle

The supply pipe enters the lower hole on one side, the return pipe exits through the lower hole on the other side of the heating device.

Photo 1. Bottom heating radiator connection diagram: pipes pass between the floor and the radiator.

• Used for hidden pipes in the floor.
• Thermal efficiency is 30% lower than diagonal(coolant stagnation in the upper part of the radiator).

Reference! Most often in private houses heating pipes laid along the wall between the radiator and the floor. Near the radiator, bends are made upwards with connections across diagonal pattern.

Accessories for installing a heating battery

To install the battery, you need a number of components.

Installation kit

Comprises two fittings with right-hand thread, two fittings with left-hand thread, plugs, Mayevsky crane, three brackets and three dowels.

Futorki ( adapters 1 - ½ inches) are screwed into the radiator holes into which the direct outlet and return are supplied. WITH right side radiator - right-hand thread (screwing the fitting clockwise), on the left - left-hand thread (counterclockwise). A Mayevsky tap is placed in the upper right hole, and a plug is placed in the remaining hole.

Photo 2. A set of four fittings with right and left threads is required for mounting the radiator.

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Plumbing flax and sealant paste

Flax is used for thread packages. When exposed to water, it swells and seals gaps in threaded connections.

Unipak sealant paste seals flax in threads, protects it from rotting, facilitates screwing of bushings.

Shut-off valves

Ball Valves used to block pipes, placed on the supply pipe. A control valve is installed on the return line. The connecting part of the tap or valve is an American type - a detachable connection with a union nut. Consists of two parts. Part of the American With external thread 1/2” screws into internal hole radiator liners.

The American one makes it easy to connect the radiator to the tap and remove it.

Marking the wall for brackets

Marking algorithm for radiators up to 10 sections. Two brackets at the top along the edges, one at the bottom in the middle.

1. Measure window opening length, mark on the wall midpoint(under the windowsill).
2. Swipe from marked point vertical line down to the floor.
3. Mark point (A) on a vertical line at a distance of 10 cm from the windowsill.
4. Conduct horizontal line through the marked point (A).
5. Measure the distance on the radiator between the fastening points of the upper brackets.

Photo 3. Selecting a place on the wall where the radiator will be located, determining the method of fastening the upper brackets.

1. Set aside on both sides of point (A) for horizontal line lengths, equal to half the distance on the radiator.
2. Set aside on the center vertical line a segment from point (A) down 50 cm long - place installation of the bottom bracket.
3. Drill holes for the brackets. Keep the drill strictly horizontal so that the drill in the wall does not go sideways.
4. Hammer the dowels, screw in the brackets to the required distance from the wall.

Radiator assembly process

Important! Do not wrap flax on the thread itself! The flax acts as a gasket between the casing and the end of the battery. Do not use silicone to lubricate flax. Silicone prevents the flax from swelling in water and seals the joint.

Correct battery installation

The heating radiator is being installed in several stages.

American sleeve packing

Installation

1. Install the American in the hole of the foot, tighten by hand until it stops, avoiding distortion.
2. Insert the American key and begin to carefully tighten the bushing. The bushing should be tightened with a noticeable force, but without jamming.
3. After the bushing is fully tightened to the full length of the thread Clean the installation site from excess paste with a napkin.

How to install the device on the brackets?

1. Visit the radiator on installed brackets.
2. Adjust the position of the brackets, bending them vertically, achieving a tight fit of the radiator on the upper and lower brackets without play.

Harness

1. Place its counterpart on the faucet or valve strictly axially to the American bushing.
2. Tighten union nut hand all the way.
3. Perform installation of pipe bend piping and shut-off and control valves at the location of the radiator.

Important! Do not put flax under the union nut! The American connection is sealed by a rubber ring at the end of the bushing. Do not overtighten the union nut! It would be correct to make a power reserve so that the nut can be tightened.

The heating system is one of the main engineering systems in the house, be it country cottage or ordinary apartment. We can forget about it in the summer, but with the onset of cold weather in our latitudes, it is basically impossible to live without it. The heating system consists of many elements. For example, autonomous and central heating differ in parameters, but any of them will have a device such as a radiator.

A radiator is the final device that transfers the energy of the coolant in the pipes to the premises. If you decide to save money and install heating radiators yourself, then be sure to study this article. After all, from the right thermal calculation, selection and installation of equipment greatly depends on the efficiency of heating, and therefore on your further comfort and even safety.

Types of heating batteries

A heating radiator (often called a “battery” in everyday life) is a device consisting of separate hollow sections within which coolant circulates. His the main task– increase the area of ​​the radiating surface to increase the amount of heat transferred to the room. Heat is transferred primarily by convection, when warmer air masses rise and are replaced by colder ones. A small part is also contributed by radiation and thermal conductivity.

Based on manufacturing methods, batteries can be divided into two types: collapsible and non-removable. Collapsible radiators are assembled from single vertical sections connected by seals - radiator nipples. The number of sections is selected according to the calculated thermal power.

Sectioned aluminum radiator

Non-separable, or panel radiators- This monolithic structures, in which only welding and casting are used. Due to the smaller number of connections, such devices are more reliable, but less versatile.

Wiring methods

First of all, we need to highlight two general schemes heating systems: one-pipe and two-pipe.

IN single pipe system The radiators are connected in series, and one pipe is used for hot and cooled coolant. This scheme is more demanding in selecting the diameter of the pipes, and the number of heating devices should not exceed 4 - 5 with a total pipeline length of up to 30 m. Since the water cools when passing through the radiators and giving off heat to them, the radiators located lower down the riser should have a larger power (i.e. surface area) to compensate for the lower coolant temperature.

It is important! As the name suggests, two-pipe scheme involves the use of two pipes: for hot coolant (supply) and cooled coolant (return). All radiators are connected in parallel to the system, and water flows into them at approximately the same temperature.

Video: replacing batteries

After installing the radiators, pressure testing of the heating system must be carried out - pumping coolant into the system under pressure several times higher than the working one, and monitoring leaks for a short period of time. This step cannot be omitted, since it guarantees further uninterrupted operation heating system. If you don't know how to do this, call a plumber. In addition to knowledge, crimping requires a special pump, which makes no sense to buy just once.