Wood is perhaps the most traditional look external cladding house facades. It is extremely versatile and available in many different styles. Each style is beautiful and adds a sense of traditional charm to any home. People love wood paneling for their beautiful and natural exterior design.

How to cover the outside of a house? Wooden Lining: types and types of installation

The most commonly used types include cedar, pine, spruce and redwood. You can either leave the wood in its natural state or paint it to further customize it appearance to your wishes. In addition to wood types and colors, you can further vary the different types of profiles in which the wood is applied to your home.

The most common profiles for wood siding include:

• one of the classic options is the fence, barn type wooden lining, consists of wide boards joined together and a batten nailed across the joint of the two boards to close the gap, creating a vertical design
• The tile or lap type is a type of long, thin boards or individual slabs installed horizontally with a slight overlap.
• tenon - groove. Like the panels, the top of each is horizontal installed panel is installed in a groove on the bottom edge of the board on top of it.
• Vertical Boards - A series of wide boards are placed vertically with a series of narrow boards in between.
• Wooden sheet siding. Plain sheets of plywood in exterior wall trim, commonly used on inexpensive buildings.
• Block house - imitation of appearance wooden house

Each of these subtypes has its own set of pros and cons. For example, many people prefer classic look tiles, but this is the most expensive option. Tenon and groove are the cheapest. The advantages of all types are their impact resistance, natural beauty and almost endless color variations. The tree is also relatively quick and easy to install. This is one of the best options for DIY projects, although professional installation won't hurt either.

Unfortunately, wood is not without its drawbacks. In addition to the regular maintenance it requires, it is also susceptible to damage from termites, woodpeckers and rot. Costs of maintaining appearance wooden lining and its protection against common threats can quickly offset and reduce installation costs. Finally, wood is not fire resistant. This can be a major deciding factor if you live in an area with a dry climate where wildfires are common.

Finishing the Walls with Lining: Fence, barn type of installation

This type of house siding allows you to be creative because you can use boards of varying lengths. Some of the types of wood used are pine, fir, cedar and redwood. Although the commonly used material is wood, it can also be used artificial wood and vinyl façade panels under the tree.

Advantages:

• This makes the house appear taller because it is usually installed vertically.
• You can choose between real wood, vinyl, and engineered wood.
• The tree is easy to install and operate.
• You can be creative and use the size of wood you prefer. You can also install panels vertically or horizontally.

Flaws:

• Wood can rot or become infested with pests if it is poorly treated.

Material price:

• $3-5 per sq.m.

Block House - Excellent Material for House Cladding

Block house allows you to make a house that looks like a real wooden or country house. This is done using cypress, redwood, pine or cedar logs. Block house planks must be dried and treated to give them a longer service life. They can be colored, although leaving them in their natural state is preferable by simply adding a clear coat.

Advantages:

• This gives the house a natural, rustic look.
• The appearance of a block house is durable if it is made using high quality wood and with proper maintenance.

Flaws:

• The initial costs are high because the material is more expensive than regular wood paneling, as well as the cost of maintenance.
• Finishing a block house requires regular maintenance to prevent insect infestation. Cracks in the planks must be sealed to prevent disintegration.

Material price:

• $5-10 per sq.m.

Tile type - rare Installation of Wooden Lining

Cladding wood panels panels are made using single blocks of wood that can be cut into different shapes. The machine cuts to ensure uniformity and smoothness. They are installed on top of each other - overlapping. Some of the types of wood used are redwood and red cedar. This type of cladding material is environmentally friendly and gives the house the appearance of an old country house.

Advantages:

• facing material gives the home a natural look that goes well with environment such as ponds and forests.
• finishing the facade with such siding is cheaper compared to brick and stone with the same rich appearance

Flaws:

• Cladding materials require regular maintenance, including sealing and painting, to ensure they are not damaged by the weather.
• susceptible to moisture and may develop mold and moss if not maintained properly. Insects and wind can also damage wood; it can become deformed, curled and cracked.

Horizontal façade cladding with wooden clapboard - modern style

The exterior is made using thin strips of wood arranged horizontally, in some cases using a tenon and mortise design. Wood helps create a rustic feel for the home. Some of the types of wood used include cypress, pine, fir and spruce.

Advantages:

• Wood can come in a variety of textures and colors.

Flaws:

• Initial costs are high, especially if you use woods such as redwood and cedar, which are considered rot-resistant.

Vertical lining of the facade with clapboard - classic style

In this case, the wooden strips are placed vertically, which can help emphasize the height of the house. Like horizontal stripes, they are connected together using a tenon groove. The woods used are pine, spruce and cypress.

Advantages:

• This gives the home a classic, rustic look and improves curb appeal.
• The wood is environmentally friendly.
• Wood can be customized using stains and paints.

Flaws:

• Exteriors require regular maintenance to keep the wood from cracking, rotting, warping or deteriorating. The facade should be repainted or repainted every three to six years.
• Initial costs are high, especially when using woods such as redwood and cedar, which are considered rot-resistant.
  Wood is susceptible to water and insect damage if not treated properly.

Artificial wood paneling

Artificial wooden siding (lining) looks almost exactly like real wood, but it is made from composite materials. Unlike vinyl or fiber cement with wood grains, faux wood siding is based on real wood. Various fibers and parts are combined to create an authentic finished product.

The main advantage of artificial wooden lining is the presence of real wood. It costs much less than natural wood. Engineered wood can also be manufactured to suit your personal preferences. It is available in a variety of styles that mimic different kinds wood and color. Not only does it look like real wood, it also has a distinct texture. Another advantage of this material is its durability. Expect your engineered wood to last at least 20-30 years. Engineered wood can withstand extreme temperatures, humidity, fire, and insects well. It needs little maintenance.

The only real downside to note, other than the fact that engineered wood isn't exactly real, is that you can't repaint or refinish it. The color you initially choose is a color that will stay forever, you cannot repaint it.

Cool photos of how to cover a house with clapboard

The design of this house's cladding with wooden clapboards uses modern façade paneling - the result is stunning. This couple has created the perfect property for their family located on Hwasser Island. Due to the island's spectacular weather and the house's open location by the sea, timber with low level service that can withstand all weather conditions.

This striking home was designed to stand out from the more traditional cottages in the area. However, the owners also believed that it was important to look to the future and build a home suitable for today, with the ability to meet the needs of your dynamic family. During the summer, the family can enjoy the outdoor space from the roof terrace, which offers breathtaking views of the natural environment.

Cladding the walls with clapboard

The terrace is built with finely adjusted railings that act as walls to create a sheltered lounge suitable for casual entertaining. When the weather worsens, the sliding doors leading to the terrace are closed and the family can enjoy the magnificent view regardless of the weather.

Lining Finishing in Modern Style

After prolonged exposure to weather conditions, the wood paneling on the facade took on a silver-gray tint, which allowed the exterior walls of the house to reproduce the colors natural stone next to him. The finishing of the façade, decking and terrace flows smoothly into the landscape. The weathered patina improves the appearance of untreated wood without affecting the durability and dimensional stability of the cladding material used.

As an environmentally friendly product modern wood panels were selected for the façade primarily because of their durability and naturalness. In addition, it was especially useful that such cladding material for the facade of the house does not require significant maintenance other than routine cleaning, with a 30-year guarantee even in northern climates.

How to Cover a House with Siding

Patented processing technology developed in Norway wooden panels for facade cladding uses an environmentally friendly process that continuously improves properties coniferous wood using biological fluid obtained from agricultural crops. Thanks to the polymerization of the wood's walls, durability and dimensional stability were significantly improved, giving it characteristics similar to those of tropical hardwood.

When choosing the material for the facade of the house, it was especially important that the wood did not need maintenance, which allowed the owners of the house to make the most efficient use of free time for walks with children. This home is a perfect example of how wood takes on a silvery gray patina over time, adding beauty and natural identity to the project.

How to cover the outside of a wooden house?

If you want a warm feeling from your exterior, lining the facade with clapboard will give you this! Look at these photos of houses covered with wooden clapboards and you will see this. Fortunately, modern protective materials allow you not to think for a long time about restoring the facade of a wooden house.

Don't be afraid to apply new technologies to old, proven materials and you will get ultra modern facades wooden houses that will delight you every day!

Cladding the facade of a wooden house on the coast with clapboard

Located on Orcas Island, one of the archipelagos of San Juan Island off the coast of Washington, USA. The house is equipped with retractable panels that protect it from very windy storms, the prevailing ocean currents that come ashore in winter. Located on the coast of the island, the house is used as a retractable wooden panels, and the surrounding forest as protection in winter. Widely used on the facade and interior of the house lining, like finishing material . But look how ultra-modern the cladding looks!

On the south side of the house there is a rocky shore overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Architects, answering the question of how to cover the façade of a house, used natural colors of cedar façade cladding to harmoniously combine this wooden house with the surrounding landscape. Lining material for exterior cladding of a house local.

Wood-look façade cladding - unity with nature in the photo

The surrounding forest helps protect the house from weather conditions, which are severe quite often.

The facade of a house made of wood is the best option for living

Stone collected from the site was used to level the area for the house. Busy place the house was compensated by a green roof on it.

Cladding a house with wood is the right decision

The site is on an island with pristine shorelines and marine life, so carefully engineered stormwater flows were designed to replicate pre-construction conditions.

Cladding the House with Clapboards on the Outside will never go out of style

Wooden wall panels are installed on guides, which allows them to close tightly or open within a wide range depending on weather conditions.

Finishing the Facade with Lining will always please the eye

When the weather is good and panels open - behind them there is a wall of large panoramic windows, which can also be closed or opened wide for easy access to the street.

Lining for the Exterior Cladding of the House - natural design of the exterior of the house

This double sliding panel system used both front and back on the façade of this modern timber house.

Lining for External House Cladding fits perfectly into the surrounding nature

When both sets sliding elements open, you can easily walk through the house from the front yard to the back deck without opening the doors.

Decorating a House with Clapboard is possible not only in the interior

The home's wide open spaces are ideal for allowing ocean views to travel unimpeded throughout the home and yard.

Interior Finishing Lining will combine everything into one whole

When glass panels closed and Wall panels remain open, cold parties remain comfortable.

External lining gives a warm feeling when touched

The open veranda of the house also boasts large size, allowing you to enjoy your meal outdoors.

Finishing with Eurolining - a sea of ​​warmth and comfort

This stunning outdoor dining table was crafted from two planks of naturally weathered building material.

Lining for Exterior Finishing can be the same as for the interior

Roof overhang paneling and the deck planks are Western red cedar.

Sheathing with Wooden Lining - easy and quick installation

Around the back of the house, the alcove is also lined with red cedar clapboard, and the open deck is left uncovered to weather conditions.

Do-It-Yourself Lining – Not as difficult as it might seem

The back deck slopes down to the portion of the landscaping that was leveled for the home's foundation.

Wooden Lining for Exterior Work - modern technology makes this easy

Inside the home, wood floors, clapboard ceilings and walls act as a frame for impressive views.

Wooden Wall Cladding - a practical and effective solution

Even the view from the front of the house is magnificent and constantly showcases the local animal life.

The clapboard house fits perfectly with the interior

When Wall panels closed, the view to both sides of the house is still not completely blocked and natural daylight can illuminate the interior areas.

Wall upholstery with clapboard always pleases with the results

On cold days, when the house is closed, a wood fireplace is used for heating. Design with open square shelving on both sides is the main focus when closing wall panels. Even the wooden paneling of the ceiling of this wonderful interior does not create the impression of a grandmother’s dacha. As a nod to the color of the ocean and sky, several parts of the interior feature rich blue hues.

Ceiling Finishing with Lining

The indoor dining table is made of Fir wood slab, only in contrast to the outdoor dining table it has not been processed for outdoor use. The kitchen overlooks the side façade and deck. It has four small storage rooms on the side walls. The overhangs on the other side of the house are longer and contain a master bedroom overlooking the side garden and ocean, as well as a guest suite overlooking the side garden and a master bathroom overlooking the front yard. Unlike the social area, there is no clapboard paneling in the bedrooms, bathroom and toilets.

Decorating the House with Clapboard Exterior - Modern Option

This modern house, with wood siding on the facade, is located less than an hour from Oakland in a new area filled with family houses and trees. The stylish modern home hides its occupants from prying eyes while its mid-height fence surrounds the property on all sides. Gray wood siding contrasts with darker roof cladding and black steel window frames. Huge windows are an indispensable attribute of a modern home nowadays.

Wall cladding with Wooden Lining can look modern

The façade of the house appears to consist of several supporting walls that protrude and partially mask the numerous windows. All the lines of this modern house tell us about its modern design both outside and inside.

The back has a glass entrance and just a couple of windows. Additional light the room is provided with skylights in the roof. Facade siding , with which the house is sheathed, is even suitable for a shower area.

Cover the House with Wood - take the clapboard

The main entrance and garage create the impression of an impregnable fortress due to the absence of windows. The garage door features the same wood siding found on the exterior of this modern home.

You can cover the walls with clapboard horizontally and vertically

Gravel, slightly mixed with greenery, surrounds this one. Mostly weeds grow on wooden flowerbeds, but how do they match the wooden cladding of the house facade! The color combination of light and dark facade cladding with wooden siding visually lengthens the walls of the house. The slope of the roof further enhances this effect.

Wooden Sheathing of the House - be sure to use modern protective materials

The interior of the house also has a large number of tree. White plastered walls balance it out, creating a more modern look. Tiles in the bathroom and kitchen add another dimension to the interior interesting element. Numerous seating areas make full use of the huge square windows. Although the overall decor seems quite minimal, the wood grain and natural lighting do a great job of giving it plenty of detail.

Wooden Lining Finish ~ Modern villa in Vilnius

Mountains envelop a cool modern villa in the forest of the Lithuanian capital Vilnius. The ultra-modern building boasts a sophisticated design and a spacious, well-kept fenced lawn.

Built entirely of wood and clad wood panels(siding) in a modern style. It is located at the foot of the hill and one of its floors occupies its upper part.

Wall Decoration with Wooden Lining

Its side of the public area sections on basic design gives the villa a distinct rock silhouette, which also informs the interior architecture. Lots of floor to ceiling windows and sliding doors provide easy access to the grass carpets outside and also open up to surrounding forest views. Each level has its own outdoor lounge where its occupants can enjoy nature to its fullest.

Inside, a modernist aesthetic takes command of every room, using nothing less than light wood and black steel. When fog sets in, the villa takes on more mysticism. Raises his head and shows his wooden teeth from the fog. It seems that no one else can see it, the structure is so artfully integrated into the environment.

House Cladding with Wood

Wall Cladding with Lining

Wood Sheathing

Boards for Wall Cladding

Euroboard for walls

Lining at the Dacha

Finishing the Dacha with Lining

Ceiling Cladding with Lining

Lining ceiling

Wooden Wall Decoration

Room made of Clapboard

Finishing the Attic with Lining

Lining the Attic

Lining the Attic

Decorating the Walls with Lining Inside the House

Decorating the Room with Clapboard

Finishing the Facade with Planken

Wall finishing with Eurolining

Sheathing with Eurolining

Cladding with clapboard

If you decide to improve the appearance of your home, then clapboard cladding on the outside of the house is a good choice. Such external decoration will not only make the walls of the house more beautiful, but will also improve their heat and sound insulation properties.

You will learn about how to choose a material and how to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards from this article.

Types of lining

It is divided into 2 main types: plastic and wood. Each has its own characteristics.

Speaking about plastic exterior lining, it is necessary to highlight the following features:

• durability(not subject to rotting);
• unpretentiousness(does not require complex care);
• excellent water repellent properties (outer plastic lining is not exposed to a humid environment).

Their distinctive features has a classic wooden lining:

• presentable appearance;
• soundproofing properties;
• low thermal conductivity.

Wooden lining for exterior finishing is also divided into regular and. This is due to different standards in the production of these boards.

In our country they are produced according to GOST 8242-88, abroad according to DIN 68126. Imported timber differs from Russian wood in grade and external parameters. And also with more thoughtful geometry, more high quality manufacturing. Because of this, its price is much higher.

How to choose a lining

When choosing this building material, you need to adhere to the following simple rules:

1. The moisture content of the wood should not be more than 10-15%, otherwise, over time it will dry out, which will lead to an increase in the gaps between the boards.
2. You need to choose boards without fungal infections and without wormholes.
3. Give preference to material with a minimum number of knots.

Advice!
Use softwood wood. Material made from deciduous trees (except aspen) is not suitable for cladding the outside of a house with clapboards.

Stages of work

1. Installation of vapor barrier;
2. Frame installation;
3. Placement of thermal insulation;
4. Fastening waterproofing;
5. Installation of the second frame;
6. Outdoor

Installation of vapor barrier

Can be used as a vapor barrier polyethylene film, aluminum foil or even roofing felt. Its task is to ventilate the facade of the house under the film. To do this, wooden narrow slats 2.5 cm wide are vertically attached to the wall at a distance of one meter from each other.

A vapor barrier layer is nailed to the fixed slats. Then, at the top, as well as at the bottom, holes with a cross-section of 20 mm must be made between the slats to ensure ventilation.

Frame installation

Next, we make a frame with our own hands from boards with a thickness of 40 mm to 50 mm and a width of 10 cm. To do this, we attach them to the wall of the house vertically on their sides. We set the distance between the boards 1-2 cm less than the width of our insulation (mineral wool sheets).

Placement of thermal insulation

The next step required for finishing the house with clapboard outside is the placement of thermal insulation.

• Mineral wool slabs must be installed so that they do not have gaps between them.
• To do this, we lay 2 layers of mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm each.
• We place the slabs so that the junction of the two slabs of the lower layer is covered by the middle of the slab of the upper layer. Since the slabs are quite elastic, they will be held between the boards without additional fastening (see photo).

Securing waterproofing

• A waterproofing film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer. It allows steam to pass through but retains water.
• Having laid the film, we fasten it with staples to the frame boards.
• To achieve the best effect, you need to leave an overlap of about 5-10 cm and glue it with tape.

Advice!
To achieve the desired effect, the waterproofing film must be laid rough side to the lining, and smooth - to the insulation.

Installation of the second frame

The next stage of work, as our instructions say, is the installation of the second frame.

• To do this, we nail slats with a thickness of about 2-3 cm and a width of 0.5 mm onto the boards forming the first frame, on top of the waterproofing layer. This is necessary for ventilation and removal of moisture formed in the form of condensation on the waterproofing film.
• The space created below must be closed metal mesh to prevent rodents and insects from entering there.

Cladding on the outside

So, I stayed The final stage– external wall cladding with clapboard.

• To do this, we cut the boards to the required length and start paneling from the bottom. We place the first (starting board) with the tenon down and the groove up. We check its horizontality using a level.
• If everything is normal there, we secure it with nails or special clamps. If there are deviations from the horizontal axis, we first align our workpiece, and then fasten it.
• We insert the next board from above into the groove of the previous one. Hit from above with a mallet ( wooden hammer). This is necessary so that the tenon of the upper board fits tightly into the groove of the lower one.
• After that we secure it. We insert all the other boards in the same way.

When the lining is installed on the outside, it is necessary to secure the boards in the corners of the house. We fix them vertically, and one should overlap the other, forming an overlap.

It is also necessary to make platbands for windows. The pediment can be sheathed horizontally, securing the boards in the same way. After the main part of the work is completed, you need to start painting.

The surface of the boards can be painted or coated with a special liquid. Special impregnation for exterior lining will preserve the natural color of the wood, while protecting it from negative external influences.

If you still decide to paint, we recommend that you adhere to the following tips:

1. Before painting, treat the entire surface to be painted. grinder, with sandpaper fixed in it (grit 40, 25, 80, 120).
2. If you plan to paint, then first apply 2 layers of drying oil. After it has completely dried, start painting.

As you can see, covering the outside of a house with clapboard is not that difficult, although this process requires a lot of time and effort. If you are interested in this type of finishing, by the way, plastic exterior lining will look especially good, get started. And if you want to learn more, we recommend watching a variety of videos on our website on this topic.

Covering walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Wood lining has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathing. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange vapor capacity - when there is an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining of the lining absorbs them; when there is a shortage, he gives. In addition, wood emits a faint aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a clapboard-lined house.

Note: This publication discusses wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not reduce or add anything to the quality of the living environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive and thirdly, the technology of covering them differs significantly from that for wooden lining. Therefore, houses are sheathed mainly on the outside with clapboards made from non-wood materials.

Work procedure

Wooden lining can be finished living rooms almost any design style, either completely or partially, see fig. In the latter case, the lining may be effective means room zoning, top left in Fig.

The walls are finished with clapboards in the following order:

• Preparing the building: if the walls are porous or cold (they conduct heat well) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly also external decorative cladding. Neglecting this point will bring all efforts to create beauty inside to nothing;
• Choice of material – wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;
• Choice of cladding scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;
• Preparation of internal base surface– leveling, vapor/hydro insulation;
• Installation of sheathing under the cladding;
• Wall covering with clapboard, using standard or simplified technology. In terms of strength and decorative qualities of the cladding, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;
• Applying a protective coating to the casing;
• Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;
• Applying skirting boards to expansion gaps and corners window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a type of molding - long-length lumber - and is a profiled board with a standard tongue and groove connection. A tongue and groove joint is a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Tongue piles come with locks (which do not necessarily require additional fastening of the boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with lockless tongue and groove, because Locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. Laminate flooring is produced with interlocking tongues, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and especially on the ceiling without additional fastenings. There are standard fasteners for laminate, similar to those for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of walls and ceilings are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so there is no point in spending money on covering anything other than the floor with laminate.

Wood

Wall lining is made from various types of wood, both ordinary local and imported expensive ones. For budgets up to medium level, lining made of pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch is available, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods are expensive. The dressing room and rest room of the bathhouse are lined with pine clapboard, the washing area with oak, aspen or alder; perhaps larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: Wood paneling and wood for lathing under it must be acclimatized before use - kept in the room that will be finished for at least 24 hours, stacked with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. The cheap one is knotty, and the expensive one is made from the trunks of mast pine trees without knots. Knotty pine lining nevertheless serves as an excellent decorative material. The breathing of pine is smooth and deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. To decorate residential premises, you need to take clapboard made of dry chip pine, cut down in winter. Pitch pine, felled during the period of sap flow, on outdoors holds up no worse than bog oak, but is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish resin from dry wood chips on sale: either streaks of resin are visible on the resin, or it stains your finger with it if you run it with pressure along the fibers. Interior decoration pine clapboard houses are the optimal option in terms of beauty, benefit and cost.

Spruce is similar in many ways to pine, but it is not necessary to cover the nursery and kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dried wood chips and tar. The resin content in spruce wood is approximately the same all year round. Spruce lining is light, but it darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, so finish with spruce lining better room with windows facing north and northwest. A special feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-trimmed office turns out to be solid, thorough, and the music or sound of a movie in a “spruce” living room is clear, rich, and lively.

Note: on sale under the guise of spruce there is often a lining of almost the same color tone, as pine. It is made of fir. There is more resin in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Fir lining is well suited for the hallway, balcony, glassed-in veranda and other rooms where people enter in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is famous for its strength and durability. In a relationship decorative lining The important thing about it is that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives additional design possibilities. Ash is also uneven in tone, but is lighter than oak and breathes easier. The oak-lined living room with south-facing windows can be stuffy in summer; It is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and children's room with oak. The oak muffles the sounds; If your music center makes your neighbors “happy,” then oak cladding can reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak resists rot and mold very well, but wood-boring beetles readily gnaw at it. The house beetle most often infests in oak houses.

Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Not afraid of fungi and insects; ants and cockroaches avoid houses lined with larch, even mosquitoes are reluctant to fly there. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from tree to tree; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but re-grading it is much cheaper and you can achieve interesting effects in the cladding. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) becomes bituminized: larch lining, aged for a year, in this respect is equivalent to pine made from dry chips. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.

Birch gives an exceptionally light, cheerful, positive interior and is aesthetically compatible with most modern design styles. Under the influence of UV, birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. Only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains - underfloor heating in combination with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, and aspen are of little use for cladding residential premises. due to low mechanical strength; lining made from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in a bathhouse with linden makes the bathhouse light and suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - regular, medium. The oak bath is vigorous. It is good to maintain heroic health and strength, but it will not benefit an ordinary person.

Note: cover the steam room and washing bath knotty lining made of any wood is unacceptable, because in the bathhouse atmosphere the twigs soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, knots turn out to be sources of fire and burn hazards; heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) is the Soft Line profile lining (on the right in the figure); if the design requires minimal visible gaps between the boards, use eurolining.

The Shtil profile lining differs from it not only in its smaller thickness, but also in its more rounded molding - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Shtil lining, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under timber is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for cladding utility rooms. bath rooms, because due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat less well and is less susceptible to knots falling out. Larch lining for timber that is at least a year old from the time of sawing can also be used to cover a washing room, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a ridge height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. wind-resistant, for external cladding. Whether or not to sheathe the walls inside is up to you.

Lining of any profile is produced in boards different widths. If you intend to decorate the room(s) with clapboards with your own hands in an inexpensive, simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order should be cut to the width as small as possible, and the trim should be no narrower than the baseboard + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the wall length is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take a board 150 mm (15 cm) wide along the top surface for vertical cladding (see below). 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for cladding. So acceptable, 2/3 of the last remains in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because... the width of the last one will remain only 0.22. A 200 mm board won’t work either: it seems like a whole number of them can be laid, but there is no margin left for trimming, see below.

American

American lining came into construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, cladding with overlapping boards is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulk. American lining can be flat (item 1 in the figure) and stepped (item 2 and item 3 - profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone cladding along its length.

It is believed that American women can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, installing an American Christmas tree (like a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

• Each panel will go 2, 4 (as on item 4), 6, etc. an even number of boards.
• The ridge is cut off at the extreme boards of the panel.
• Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges) bars are placed perpendicular to the main beams of the sheathing, see below.
• High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly according to the profile of the grooves; it is only necessary that the dowels fit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing made from vertical American panels looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone sheathing (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The easiest way to install lining boards on walls is to either mount them upright or lay them on horizontal belts. Horizontal cladding is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to correctly cladding walls horizontally, always laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, micro-reservoirs will form in the grooves (item 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will occur. If the sides of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the installation order) are trimmed correctly, they are cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a trap of capillary moisture. As for the vertical cladding, whether and where to cut the tongue/groove depends only on the installation method. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bathhouse, hallway); here and correct installation horizontal cladding will not prevent it from getting stuck.

Diagonal clapboard cladding is rarely used, because is complex and results in a large waste of material, but aesthetically has almost no benefit. There are many shaped clapboard coverings; you can notice that, for example, sheathing with a flat herringbone (on the left in the next figure) is labor-intensive, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on a vertical sheathing. They look great, but are more complicated than the lining diamond panels on the right in Fig. The sheathing for them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars for the diagonal sheathing are attached, see below.

Lathing

You can’t just nail the paneling to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely flat: a system of capillary channels will appear between the paneling and the wall, the room will become damp, and the paneling and, possibly, the wall will rot. Cladding with clapboard must be ventilated, for which ventilation channels are cut out in the undersides of the boards. That is, a wooden sheathing is definitely required for clapboard cladding.

Why made of wood? Because the sheathing material, which has similar properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the sheathing and the wall, see below. If you put wooden clapboard cladding on, say, steel profiles for drywall, it will quickly swell or cracks will appear. And if after a year or two you remove the skirting boards from the casing according to wooden sheathing, then it turns out that its edges have moved, but the visible surface remains smooth and remains.

Schemes of sheathing for vertical, horizontal and diagonal cladding are given in Fig. General principle– the sheathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Don't neglect the edge beams (marked in red!): there should be no hanging ends of the boards; the sheathing for diagonal cladding must have a continuous frame. The thickness of the sheathing beams is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the beams is 4-5 board widths along the top surface.

Note 6: fastening the beams to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam/gas blocks from 120 mm. IN wooden wall– wood screws from 4x60. The beam fastening step is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap created by the sheathing is a ventilation one, not a steam trap. Second, so that the cladding in an ideal room does not suffer from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the sheathing beams) surface for the cladding should be no more than 2 mm/m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Placing the sheathing directly on a porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) is a gross mistake. Quite expensive and labor-intensive, but very reliable option wall preparation - covering with cement vapor-proof plaster, pos. 2; at the same time the wall is leveled. The sheathing beams can be secured to a fairly flat concrete wall in a dry room using EC brackets for plasterboard profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. In this case, the sheathing bars are selected in advance for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC brackets, already attached to the wall, the ends of the beam are bent and fastened along its edges, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The remaining bars are placed exactly in a plane, oriented along the middle.

However, the best way to prepare a wall for clapboard cladding is a vapor barrier; in the bathhouse, kitchen, hallway it is impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil insulation is applied to it with the foil facing out; the insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. Then plywood pads with a thickness of 8 mm or more are attached under the beams to the wall through the insulation, i.e. greater than the thickness of the insulation, and next to them are the sheathing beams, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the sheathing, shown by green arrows in pos. 5.

Sheathing

The main principle of clapboard cladding is to start from small difficult places(see figure on the right) to large solid planes. Details about all the subtleties internal lining wooden lining according to all the rules, see next. video, and we’ll see where we can simplify, make it cheaper and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the sheathing with mounting clips: starting clips (pos. 1a in the figure) and running clips, or gluers (kleimers, clamps, clasps), pos. 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with gluers ensures high labor productivity: a professional, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the fastening point, see video:

Video: gluers for fastening lining

Second, the gluers do not damage the boards. For example, in the countries of Southern Europe, the wooden paneling of a room is a symbol of wealth and prestige, but due to strong UV, the paneling there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the sheathing is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a board with holes as working material. Installation of lining on gluers is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be cumbersome, because... In addition to the increased number of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also required.

Video: how to attach lining with gluers

In Central Russia, lining under 2 layers of acrylic varnish (see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your home, you can attach the lining to the sheathing with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener heads are recessed in plain sight by twisting the excess with a screwdriver or, if these are nails, with a hammer - a steel rod with a head for impact with a hammer strike at one end and the other end sharpened to a truncated cone. The simplest hammer is made from a 100-150 mm nail.

The recessed fastener heads are rubbed with wood putty. Because The cladding of walls and ceilings is not subject to heavy loads and wear; you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by mixing 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same wood to 1 part PVA.

Laying

Usually, the lining is laid in the same way as laminate: the ridge is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they do not walk on the walls and ceiling and do not place furniture on them, cladding according to the “everything in reverse” principle, pos. 6. Only cut to width size last board, and the first one is placed with the groove against the wall as is.

Protection

The panel (wall) covered with clapboard is sanded until smooth with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic varnish. The purpose of the primer in this case is primarily to lift the small fibers left by the rough sandpaper. After the primer has dried, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each sanding, blow off the surface with a vacuum cleaner (do not rub with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give a completely smooth surface. Its protection from mechanical damage and UV will be provided by 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first one has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not prevent it from breathing: the breath will come from the underside through the deformation gaps.

In today's construction markets there is a wide variety of materials for exterior finishing of a house, but lining has recently been in greatest demand. This is due to the fact that this material is the most affordable and easy to install. Thanks to the lining, you can give any home a modern aesthetic look and protect it from the influence of the external environment. But in order for your home to delight you with its comfort and warmth, you need to know how to sheathe the outside of the house with clapboard.

The main advantages of this finishing material:

• long service life;
• with high-quality processing, resistance to rotting increases;
• ease and ease of processing;
• increases the thermal and sound insulation of the building.

Types and features of lining

Lining is divided into classes that reflect the quality of the product. Consequently, the higher the class, the better the product is processed, the less knots there are. But in general, the class determines the quality of the wood itself, since the processing of the boards goes through the same process - sawing and drying.

When covering the outside with clapboard, it is necessary to take into account that each wood material becomes smaller in size as it dries. There is a possibility that after finishing the boards will lose adhesion to each other and a gap will form. To avoid such misunderstandings, the boards should be kiln-dried.

All cladding material is divided into:

• simple lining;
• eurolining.

The only difference is in the processing of the material. Eurolining has its advantages, such as:

• smooth surface;
• excellent geometry;
• little presence of natural moisture;
• the grooves in the connection are much deeper.

Eurolining is very easy and quick to update by treating the surface of the boards decorative wax. Thanks to these properties, it is considered one of the most economical cladding materials, and is also more durable.

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How to fasten lining panels for exterior finishing?

A more aesthetic option for cladding a house is when each board is attached to the formwork using special nails or self-tapping screws. Fastening is done through the ridge. As soon as the board is attached, the groove of the subsequent board is put on its ridge and the entire lining is mounted using this principle.

There is one drawback to fastening boards with nails and screws. Since wood has the ability to dry out, after drying the fastener caps may stick out. But this problem can be avoided by using special clamps for fastening. They are put on the comb and attached to the sheathing. This type of fastening has its own advantage - the boards remain undamaged by nails, which means their service life is extended.

Marking and installation of the frame. Before sheathing the house, the walls are marked and the frame is installed. It is also possible that the lining can be sewn directly onto the walls, but their surface is rarely even, which is precisely why a frame is needed.

External walls are sheathed with clapboard in a horizontal position, and the beams must be installed vertically.

The beams for the frame are nailed to the wall, maintaining a gap of 0.5-1.5 m in relation to each other. The optimal distance is 1 m. If it is too long distance, then during drying the grooves may not coincide, the boards will jump out and deformation will occur. During cladding, the plane that is formed from the beams must be located at the same level. To do this, they are installed using a level and, if necessary, pieces of slats are placed under them so that the future wall is level.

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Covering the frame with lining boards

Cladding with clapboard is done from bottom to top, starting from any corners. First, nail the board from below, having previously set it level and so that the tenon points upward. The second board is put with a groove on the tenon of the lower board. When installing the second board, it is necessary to press the wedges on both edges and the center as tightly as possible to the bottom board. The 2nd board is attached using a pre-selected method. As mentioned above, you can use screws, nails or clamps. After fastening, the pegs are pulled out and the 3rd board is mounted using the same method.

When clapboard cladding is performed, the tenon must be positioned upward. This must be observed so that precipitation does not fall into the grooves of the cladding material and the process of rotting does not occur.

When door and window openings are sheathed, sheathing is installed around them.

If the size of the sheathed facade does not allow the use of full-length boards, then they can be secured into a joint, which can then be decorated with a batten. Installation of the lining can be done in a herringbone pattern or in a checkerboard pattern.

To provide additional thermal insulation, after installing the frame, insulation material can be laid between the beams. But this needs to be thought out in advance, since the interval between the bars should be equal to the size of the insulation. If insulation is installed, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts and vapor barriers.

Cladding with clapboard can also be done plastic material. Plastic panels for exterior finishing they are mounted similarly to wooden material.

Building a house is a multi-step process, each of which is extremely important, including exterior decoration. It not only insulates the house, but also gives it its own original look, which will be the calling card of your family nest for many years. Cladding the outside of a house with clapboard attracts many homeowners with a number of advantages. The most important thing, perhaps, is the appearance. No matter how far we have separated from our roots, no matter how progress has developed in construction and in the creation of various new materials, wood will always take its place in the heart of the Russian person. Therefore, many homeowners want to sheathe their house with clapboards, since such sheathing will not only give it charm and attractiveness, but can also be easily installed by non-specialists at minimal cost.

Cladding the outside of a house with clapboards can make the appearance of the house more attractive.

Despite the fact that wood is considered a short-lived material, in fact this has not been the case for a long time. Any wood can be impregnated with various modern compounds that will prevent its destruction under the influence of fungi, bacteria, insects and others natural factors. The tree has excellent thermal insulation properties. In addition, wood also perfectly absorbs sound and is suitable for houses located near highways and other sources of noise.

Selecting tools and material for sheathing

To cover a house with clapboard, you will need the following tools: saw, electric drill, screwdriver (if you are fastening with self-tapping screws), hammer, marker, level, pliers.

Any important work must be broken down into several steps. The main steps in installing clapboard sheathing:

• selection of tools and materials;
• preparation of walls and fastening of sheathing;
• heat and waterproofing (if necessary);
• fastening lining boards.

Before work you need to prepare a number of tools and materials:

• qualitative wooden beam with a cross section of 30x60 mm or more;
• saw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver (if you use self-tapping screws);
• hammer;
• marker;
• level;
• pliers.

But the main material that needs to be chosen correctly is the cladding material itself. Decorating a house with clapboard begins with its selection. All lining is divided into classes that determine its external and working qualities. The higher the class of the material, the fewer knots it contains and the better its surface is finished. As for the other qualities, due to the fact that all types of lining undergo approximately the same drying and other processing, the class of the material plays almost no role here. The class primarily determines the type of wood and the number of defects.

The classes of lining determine its external and working qualities.

The most important requirement for lining is the quality of its drying, since only well-dried wood will not undergo deformation over time. Raw wood will definitely begin to change its size, and soon the entire surface of the cladding will present a deplorable sight in the form of numerous cracks and crevices. Removing deformed elements and reinstalling others in their place will take a lot of time. The humidity standard for lining used for external cladding is 12%.

Recently, in addition to dividing by class, lining is divided into regular and eurolining. The difference is that the humidity of the latter is much lower than usual, and the surface is processed so carefully that it represents ideal geometric shapes with convenient cuts and grooves. Of course, such material will cost more than usual, but in this case it is worth considering that repairs for eurolining will be needed much later than for conventional material.

Preparing walls and installing sheathing

Before installing lathing on the walls, it is necessary to prepare the walls of the house for installation. To do this, the walls are cleaned of all irregularities, the cracks are sealed, all debris is removed, and if the house is wooden, then all rotten and deformed structural elements are removed. The wall should be as smooth as possible, clean and without the slightest trace of rot or mold.

The next step is to mark the walls along the lines of which the sheathing frame will be attached. It is necessary to approach this work carefully, since uneven surface frame will lead, in the future, to a lot of problems with the cladding.

Since in the vast majority of cases the lining is located horizontally, the beams must be installed vertically. The same high quality requirements are imposed on beams as on lining. It must be well dried and have no significant flaws. The beams are fastened at a distance of about one meter, less is possible (up to half a meter), but more is not recommended, since timber of any drying quality still slightly deforms over time, and the longer it is, the higher the danger that this deformation will affect the cladding , the boards can simply jump out of the fastenings. Using a level, carefully check the evenness of the surface of the resulting frame.

If you decide to insulate the house, then it is at this stage that the thermal insulation between the beams is installed and secured. Different materials are suitable for this. It could be mineral wool, and polystyrene, and other modern insulating building materials. The choice is yours. But we still advise you not to save at this stage, since thermal protection can not only create a comfortable home for you, but also save considerable money on heating.

Installation of lining from lining

Fastening lining boards can be of two types: using simple nails and clamps. The option of nailing lining boards directly to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws also has a right to exist, especially in this case the fastening is as strong as possible, but still, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not the best design solution.

Schemes for fastening lining strips.

If you decide to fasten the boards with nails or self-tapping screws, then to do this they are driven into its ridge, as shown in the figure. In this case, the first board is attached to the beam, and the next one is inserted with its lower end into the groove of the previous one and through its ridge. Installation begins from the bottom, from the base to the roof.

The second common method of fastening is installation using clamps. This one is small fastener made of tin or stainless steel and fastens the boards in a hidden way, even over time, when the nails begin to show their heads, the clamps continue to perform their service completely invisibly. As shown in the figure, the clamp is attached to nail on the wall, and its groove securely holds the board. At the same time, the boards themselves remain completely intact and can even be reused after dismantling the sheathing.

Installation should begin from the bottom, carefully making sure that the installation is level using a level. The first board is fastened with the tenon facing up, onto which the next board is placed. The choice of fastening the boards is yours, but the best option would be to use clamps. The boards must fit into the grooves accurately and tightly.

If the length of the facade is longer than that of the boards, then you will have to choose a method for installing and joining the boards together. It is better if the joints form a “herringbone” pattern, when they do not run strictly vertically, but in a checkerboard pattern. If the joints are vertical, then they can be covered later using special decorative strips.

Having read the information on how to sheathe a house, you can easily do it yourself; there are no particular difficulties in this.

Finally, remember a couple more tips.

Before starting work, leave all the wood for a day in the place where the installation will take place so that the wood gets used to the existing temperature and humidity.

We also recommend installing vapor and waterproofing between the insulation and the sheathing material. This will be a good barrier to moisture and protect the wood from rotting. And remember that the film is placed with its smooth side against the insulation, and its rough side against the sheathing.