The speed of heating water in the washing room and maintaining heat in the steam room, fire safety and cleanliness of the air in the bathhouse depend on a properly constructed chimney. Making this design with your own hands is not easy, but it is quite possible.

Kinds

There are internal and external chimneys. The first ones are installed on top of the stove up to the ceiling and lead out into the street through the attic and roofing. Combustion products pass through the pipe, heating the room and reducing fuel consumption. And the pipe itself does not deteriorate due to the vagaries of the weather, since it is located inside the bathhouse.

The disadvantages of the design include the complexity of construction, since the chimney is routed through the bathhouse ceilings. If holes form in the pipe, smoke may leak into the room and there is also a high risk of fire.

External chimneys consist of a pipe running outside the bathhouse along the side wall. Such the chimney is easy to maintain and fireproof, but requires additional insulation and increases wood consumption. Therefore, many are inclined to install internal chimneys.

Chimneys are also divided into several types depending on the materials from which they are made. Traditional material For a rustic Russian bathhouse with a closed heater, brick is considered. This strong, durable and fireproof material takes a long time to warm up and retains heat well. Building a brick chimney is a labor-intensive process., and soot settles on its rough inner surface, trapping smoke in the chimney and reducing draft.

Metal chimney easy to install, smooth inner surface, it heats the water quickly. Steel pipes heat up in a matter of seconds, but cast iron pipes are heavy and are not so easy to install alone.

Ideal option Stainless steel is considered to have low weight, good traction and resistance to high temperatures.

Temperature changes have a negative impact on single-wall pipes, so pay attention to double-circuit sandwich structures. A sandwich chimney consists of two pipes with non-combustible insulation made of basalt or ceramic wool, or vermiculite. A large galvanized or stainless steel pipe keeps the insulation dry, and a small pipe removes smoke.

A three-circuit metal chimney kills two birds with one stone: it removes smoke and ventilates the room. The principle of operation is simple: smoke flows through the main pipe, the second cools the first, and thermal insulation is placed in the third. Lightweight design, ease of installation, maximum fire safety and long term operation makes it most suitable for baths.

Made from modern materials Ceramic chimneys are considered the most reliable, withstanding temperatures up to 600 degrees. Ceramic is waterproof and retains heat well, and is highly resistant to corrosion. It is designed for durable brick buildings.

Sometimes you come across information about constructing chimneys from lying around gas cylinders, pipe scraps, mufflers from a truck and other scrap materials.

Size selection

The diameter of the chimney pipes is designed taking into account the power of the stove, and its length depends on the location of the stove structure in the bathhouse. Regardless of the construction features, the chimney must be installed in accordance with SNiP standards and the rules of pipe and furnace work.

Solid fuel combustion products must be removed through a chimney that is installed vertically without reducing the cross-section.

The thickness of corrosion-resistant steel chimney pipes must be at least 1 mm, brick - 120 mm and concrete - 60 mm.

Non-combustible insulation will protect structures and ceilings made of combustible materials adjacent to the chimney. In this case, concrete or brick walls of the chimney should be at a distance of 130 mm from the wooden coverings, and ceramic ones - at a distance of 250 mm.

The depth of the pockets at the base of the pipes is up to 250 mm. They have holes for cleaning, closed with special valves. If several stoves are installed in the bathhouse, each must have a separate chimney.

The higher the chimney, the better the draft, any objects close to the mouth of the chimney worsen it, so the height of the pipes must be at least 5 meters. Regarding height chimney on the roof, it must rise more than 20 cm above the flat roof. If the pipe is located one and a half or three meters from the ridge, it should be placed no lower than the level of the ridge, and its height exceeds 50 cm.

If the distance between the roof ridge and the chimney pipe exceeds three meters, mentally draw a line from the ridge to the pipe down from the horizon at an angle of 10 degrees: the installed pipe should be above this line. In general, the chimney should be 50 cm above the top of the building. If the roof of the building is made of flammable materials, the height of the chimney pipes should reach one or one and a half meters.

The parameters of chimney pipes are strictly prescribed by SNiP standards. So, for complete removal of flue gas inner diameter concrete and brick chimneys must be at least 140x140 mm with a stove power of up to 3.5 W, 140x120 at 3.5-5.2 W and 140x270 at 5.2-7 W.

The circular cross-section of steel and ceramic chimneys is at least 16 cm with a stove with a power of up to 3.5 W, 19 cm with a power of 3.5-5.2 W and 22 cm with a power of 5.2-7 W. On chimneys solid fuel stoves install valves measuring 15x15 mm.

Manufacturers rating

Most buyers give preference for light and easy-to-install stainless steel structures. Judging by the reviews, the products of three domestic manufacturers are in the lead: Ferrum, Feringer and Craft.

"Feringer" specializes in the manufacture of products from heat-resistant black steel. The 3mm thickness and ability to withstand high temperatures (up to 600 degrees) allows the pipes to be installed inside the steam room. These chimneys are durable, do not darken from heat, and are safe to install through ceilings.

Their only drawback is the standard diameter of 110 mm.

The Ferrum and Craft factories specialize in the production of stainless steel chimneys. The difference is that Ferrum produces both stainless steel and galvanized steel. Moreover, the first is intended for single-circuit and internal walls of double-circuit chimneys, and the second is only for the outer pipe of a sandwich chimney.

Steel Products Craft resistant to aggressive influences environment. The molybdenum, titanium and nickel they contain make the chimney resistant to corrosion and oxidation, high and low temperatures and also increase its strength.

Device

Ideally, the chimney is a horizontal structure, but in most cases its parts are located both horizontally and vertically.

Therefore, special connecting elements are included with the chimney pipes:

Knee is responsible for the smooth connection of chimney elements. When choosing this connector, pay attention to the angle of inclination.

Three hole connector must be properly connected to the pipes. If this is not done, smoke will enter the bathhouse, which is not conducive to a pleasant stay.

The tee is easy to clean from ash thanks to the easily removable element in the form of a glass.

Pipe branch protects structures adjacent to the chimney from intense heat, and is therefore necessary if there is wooden floors. This element is used as pipe insulation if the attic and roof are made of flammable materials.

Roof trim or skirt hermetically connects the roof to the chimney, protecting the interior from rain and snow. Well, an umbrella installed on the top of the chimney protects the entire structure from the vagaries of the weather, and from the destruction of the material, and from insects.

In addition to the connecting elements, the standard kit includes fastenings - clamps and brackets for securing the structure and gates that regulate traction. A spark arrester, which is an iron grille with a visor, protects the building from fiery sparks.

There are also a number important elements chimney, without which it is impossible to imagine the bathhouse equipment:

The heat exchanger is a tank with steel plates 114-115 mm thick, installed as the starting element of the chimney. It is used to protect bath attendants from contact with the hot surface of the stove and speed up the process of heating water.

A classic example of a heat exchanger is an economizer, which is installed above a sauna boiler or stove. This device has anti-corrosion and acid-resistant properties, equally suitable for large and small bathing areas.

Air circulates through the convection tubes of the economizer, so carbon monoxide cannot enter the external pipes and bath compartments.

Steam gun or a homemade steam generator is used to create wet or dry steam. The device saves water and does not take up much space. It's easy to assemble it yourself: metal pipes with a diameter of 5-7 cm, place it over the heater so that water is poured in at one end and steam comes out from the other.

To prevent fungus and air stagnation, it is important to debug the ventilation system. But if in a wooden bathhouse the room is ventilated through the cracks between the boards, then for bathhouses made of brick or concrete it is necessary to install an exhaust hood. Properly arranged ventilation provides an influx of fresh air, allows the washing compartment to dry after bath procedures and evenly distributes warm air in the steam room.

Installation

Arranging a chimney is a difficult and time-consuming task, but if you strictly follow the instructions, it is quite possible to assemble with my own hands reliable and fireproof unit. Immediately before installation, attach a high-temperature-resistant material (for example, asbestos boards) to the walls of the bathhouse.

Make sure that the chimney joints are not at the level of the ceilings and roof. Coat the joints with heat-resistant sealing compounds and additionally fasten them with clamps. Large gaps are tightly filled with asbestos cord, A rubber compressor will be needed after the chimney is brought to the roof.

It is not possible to give step-by-step instructions for installing each type of stove, because everything depends on the characteristics of the structure itself. But it is quite possible to consider step by step the schemes for arranging a chimney on your own.

The easiest option to install internal chimney made of metal is installed as follows:

The first element of the pipe is connected directly to the stove pipe, followed by a gate that regulates the draft.

To pass through the ceiling, make a square hole and assemble a metal box with a through hole. The hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe, and the height of the box is 0.4 m greater than the thickness of the ceiling.

Mount the box into the ceiling, secure it, and then run the pipe into the attic. The latter must be insulated with expanded clay or stone mineral wool, and a lid with a through hole must be made for the box.

Then you cut a hole in the roof, attach heat-resistant asbestos to it from below, and insulate the pipe with mineral wool or asbestos on top.

Upon completion of the work, “put” a waterproof rubber cuff on the chimney and treat the joints with sealant.

An external chimney requires less time, since it is laid not through the ceiling, but through the wall. Metal elbow with suitable angle the bend is attached to the pipe and then to the pipe. A through hole is made in the wall, a metal box is mounted and the pipe is brought out.

WITH outside attach a tee that allows you to run the chimney up, down, and along the wall. The pipe is raised above the ridge by about 0.5-0.6 meters, covered with an umbrella, and the cracks on the wall are sealed with heat-resistant sealant.

These structures dry out quickly, so they require additional insulation. In order not to complicate your life, use pipes with PPU insulation, which will significantly reduce heat loss and protect against freezing.

Metal sandwich chimneys, the design of which includes a layer of insulation that protects the outer pipe from overheating and allows the inner pipe to quickly warm up, are becoming increasingly popular.

Installation of such structures is done as follows:

Mark the chimney outlet on the ceiling and roof and make holes. Approximately 10 cm is left around the perimeter of the holes to insulate the sandwich chimney from the wooden floors. The entry point of the pipe into the ceiling is covered with mineral or glass wool.

If the distance from the attic of the bathhouse to the roof is more than one and a half meters, determine the location of the unloading unit, which is installed in the attic. Its metal corners and installation elements will take the load of the pipe and prevent the occurrence of lateral vibrations.

The inner pipe is tightly inserted into the stove pipe, all pipe elements are inserted into one another, and the joints and bends are fixed with clamps.

A fireproof groove is placed in the ceiling hole, to which a passage with a diameter larger than the outer pipe of the sandwich is welded. This increases the contact area and improves stability under lateral loads. The final stage of work is sealing the exit points and joints and installing an umbrella on the chimney.

Brick structures were and remain one of the most difficult, but they do not lose their position due to their high tightness and fire safety. It is better to lay a brick chimney indoors using clay mortar, and above the roof using cement-sand mortar.

So let's get started:

First you need to make markings on the ceiling and roof using a level or plumb line. Then cut strictly vertical holes and prepare a solution.

The top part is placed on the prepared place of the stove. They lay it out vertically and make sure that its inner surface is even, because unevenness reduces traction. The correct position of the nozzle is controlled using a thread stretched between the corner of the first row of masonry and the corner of the ceiling hole. The width of the chimney is half a brick.

The fluff expands the outer walls of the chimney and securely fixes the chimney. To increase stability, use construction fittings: it should not be inside and visible from the outside. When laying fluff, each new row protrudes a quarter above the previous one. As a result, the width of the chimney will be one brick, and the widest part of the structure will be at the level of the ceiling covering.

To secure the chimney, fluffs are nailed to the ceilings close to the entire perimeter edged boards, which will hold the structure and will not allow it to sway from the wind. Then the fluff is transferred to the riser, gradually reducing the width of the chimney, and placed up to the roof.

The otter, which drains rain and melt water, is laid out in the same way as fluff. In terms of dimensions, it is a quarter of a brick larger than the riser, and its height depends on the roof slope.

It is important that the otter starts from the bottom of the roof coverings and is two rows above the top point.

• Then lay out the neck of the structure, install the head and metal cap. The latter is attached to the sheathing, and fixed at the joints with a steel clamp with heat-resistant material. Ideal for both metal roofs and corrugated roofing.

A reliable and beautiful ceramic chimney consists of inner pipe, thermal insulation layer and facing bricks.

It is installed as follows:

Depending on the characteristics of the bathhouse, ceramic chimneys are installed either on a separate foundation next to the stove or on top of it. It is important that the place is perfectly level. Prepare special glue and meter-long reinforcement for additional fixation. The ceramic structure protects wooden floors from heat, so it does not need insulation when passing through the ceiling and roof.

First, two ceramic halves are installed, and reinforcement is inserted into the side holes. Gaps between reinforcement and ceramic bricks they are filled with glue, and it is enough that the glue connects them in several places.

The ceramic pipe should be wrapped with a heat insulator in the form mineral wool and secure it with a clamp. All pipes are prepared in the same way, the number of which must correspond to the height of the structure.

• The pipe is placed in the ceramic hole and its position is checked for correctness. Then they put the second one on the glue and place it in the socket of the first one. The structure is “planted” with glue, not forgetting to remove excess from the inside of the pipes. The third, fourth and all subsequent pipes are installed in the same way.
• Seal the cracks in the attic wooden skirting boards, and then strengthen the structure with boards. If the height does not exceed one and a half meters, it is enough to attach boards around the perimeter of the chimney and nail them to the attic floors.

For a higher version, additional fixation from the boards is made of wood or metal corners. Construction works are completed by reliable sealing of the roof using factory elements.

Cleaning

Bath chimney cleaned at least twice a year - in spring and autumn. There are a number of reasons for this: condensation formed, foreign objects entering the chimney, but often the chimney is cleaned of soot and soot. The latter depends on the type of fuel used: special briquettes or European firewood slow down the accumulation of soot, but wood fuel increases the frequency of cleaning.

Today there are three popular methods of cleaning a chimney. A traditional means of cleaning a chimney is a brush, which can be bought at any hardware store or made from scrap materials.

To make this simple device, you will need a broom with plastic rods, a washer, a self-tapping screw and a cable one and a half or two meters long with a load of two to three kilograms. The process of making a ruff looks like this:

The broom rods are placed in boiling water to soften them, then they are bent in different directions and distributed evenly.

Fix the straightened rods using a washer and a self-tapping screw.

At the base of the ruff, a cable with a load is secured with brackets.

The final stage is adjusting the size, because the brush should be slightly larger than the chimney. A template cut out of cardboard will help you determine the size correctly.

Cleaning the chimney with a brush is very simple. A weight is lowered into the chimney, then a brush, and then the pipe is cleaned with progressive movements. Another “at-home” cleaning solution is a hose.

Before cleaning the chimney with it, first prepare a place near the stove, pull the hose through the pipe and clean it, pulling it in different directions. At the same time, the hose is good for cleaning soot and soot, and the brush also removes foreign objects.

Folk remedies such as potato peelings or combustible fuel are also simple and effective. In the first case, a bucket of potato peelings is thrown into a hot oven (less is possible - it all depends on internal dimensions ovens). The starch released from the cleaning reacts with soot and it removes itself within two to three days. True, experts advise cleaning the chimney again with a brush or hose.

Highly flammable fuel is dry aspen firewood. Open the ash pan, the chimney valve, the combustion chamber door and maintain the fire for two to three hours. During this time, the soot and soot burn out completely. For such cleaning, the chimney must withstand temperatures of more than a thousand degrees.

Modern liquid and solid chemicals, which are placed in the firebox along with firewood or coal, are gaining popularity. They quickly clean the chimney, are available, inexpensive and safe.

To prevent blockages, it is enough to burn aluminum foil along with the fuel once every ten fireboxes. It is important that it burns and not just flattens from the heat.

Possible mistakes

It also happens that despite all the correctness of the calculations, an error creeps into the design of the chimney. There is no reason to panic, but it is important to know how to eliminate the unpleasant drawback.

Smoldering firewood, a soot-covered fire door and wisps of smoke indicate low draft. This happens when there is heavy pollution or a short chimney. In the first case, the chimney is cleaned, in the second, it is enlarged using insulated pipes. If the draft remains the same, change the diameter of the chimney.

Plumes of smoke escaping from the air holes indicate that the thrust has stalled. This happens when the chimney pipe is not installed correctly or is top part not insulated enough. Often the solution to the problem lies in insulating the chimney.

If the oven hardly heats up, adjust the draft.

To do this, install a damper, heat removal modules with metal fins operating on the principle of a radiator, or double-walled heat-storing modules with stone chips or perlite sand instead of insulation.

Strong heating of individual parts of the chimney indicates shrinkage of poor-quality thermal insulation. The structure should be replaced, and as a temporary solution, assemble a heat-insulating casing from GVL and fill it with stone wool.

Special deflector attachments help correct errors in the chimney design. The weather vane nozzle reduces the risk of draft overturning and enhances it. The rotating one is practically unsuitable for chimneys, since in calm conditions it impairs draft, and frost in winter blocks the path of smoke. An electric smoke pump allows for quick kindling and reduces draft.

Today it is not difficult to buy a chimney for a bathhouse, but before going to the store it would be useful to know what they are. Their types, materials from which chimneys are made and which one is right for you. Or maybe it’s worth making a chimney in the bathhouse with your own hands? We will try to answer which chimney is better for a bathhouse and what is the structure of a chimney in a bathhouse in this article.

Conventionally, the passage of the chimney from the steam room to the street can be divided into three options:

Chimney in the bathhouse ceiling

Chimney for a bathhouse made of stainless steel

Stainless steel chimneys are sold in stores in two versions: double-walled sandwich chimneys (insulated) and single-walled (not insulated).

Single-wall, non-insulated pipes are used mainly for lining brick chimneys and for the first section of the chimney (you can use it to assess the wear of the entire chimney). They look like and are assembled according to the pipe-socket principle, where the upper pipe is inserted into the socket of the lower pipe. Such chimneys are made of mirror stainless steel or galvanized steel High Quality.

The insulation thickness on insulated chimneys ranges from 30 to 100 mm. As a rule, basalt wool, which has high fire-fighting properties, is used as insulation.

The thickness of the stainless steel is from 0.5 to 1 mm, the design is light and does not require large amounts of effort, powerful fasteners or a foundation.

The socket system is a sealed connection. Big choice shaped products and fasteners, makes assembling a chimney a simple and, most importantly, quick task even for a person who has never done this.

The passage of wooden floors, roofs and walls in such chimneys is carried out using special elements that isolate the chimney from the wood and prevent fire.

Also, such chimneys are easy to clean and have an aesthetic appearance.

Chimney diameter from 80 to 300 mm. No corrosion, and also the ability to order (in many cities) custom production, makes a stainless steel sauna chimney the leader in this market.

Video of stainless steel chimney assembly

Ceramic chimney for a bath

The ceramic chimney package includes:

• Ceramic pipes and fittings
• Adhesive for ceramic pipes
• Insulation
• Outdoor units

The pipes are made from refractory ceramics of a special composition; they do not absorb moisture and are resistant to aggressive environments and temperature changes. The thickness of most manufacturers is around 15 mm for pipe diameters from 140 to 200 mm. The length of each pipe is from 330 to 500 mm.

The ceramic chimney is built free-standing on a special ceramic base “condensate collector”. Next comes a 660 mm long inspection tee with a large window for cleaning and inspecting the chimney. Then a tee is installed to connect the stove; they come at 45 and 90 degrees.

Glue for ceramic chimney pipes, the so-called “acid mass for gluing pipes,” comes in 1.5 kg plastic buckets and is applied using a glue gun. The glue creates a sealed monolithic joint with a coefficient of thermal expansion equal to the expansion of the ceramic pipes themselves.

High-density (110 kg/m3), molded insulation designed specifically for ceramic chimneys and their diameters. Segments with a locking connection fit tightly to the chimney.

External high quality concrete blocks 400 by 400 mm, connected with block glue.

And the design is completed by the “top kit”, which consists of concrete slab and a metal cone.

Ceramic chimneys for a bathhouse are very reliable in terms of fire safety, and if your bathhouse is located in the basement of the house, and the chimney will pass through the upper floors and a cluttered attic, then this is your option. Concrete blocks can be plastered and painted to match the color of the walls, which will visually hide the presence of the chimney in the room.

Video of ceramic chimney assembly

Chimney price

The price of a chimney is no less, and often much more expensive than the stove itself.

Let's compare prices for stainless steel chimneys and ceramic chimneys with the following conditions:

• Chimney height 7 meters
• Internal chimney diameter 160 mm
• Chimney elements
  • Base with condensate drain
  • Audit
  • Tee for 90 degree connection
  • Chimney
  • Cone on the chimney head

Stainless steel chimney from 40 t.r. up to 60 tr. The chimney weight will be from 40 to 70 kg.

Ceramic chimney from 45 t.r. up to 120 tr. The chimney weight will be from 500 to 700 kg.

Do-it-yourself chimney for a bathhouse

If you are going to build or assemble a chimney with your own hands, here are some tips and life hacks:

Results for choosing a chimney for a bath

• If you have a small, one-story, separate standing sauna with an iron stove, then take a sandwich chimney made of stainless steel.
• If you have a large two-story bathhouse or a bathhouse in the basement of a house, buy a ceramic chimney or build a brick chimney lined with steel pipes.
• A brick chimney is only justified if you have a brick stove or fireplace.

Video on choosing a chimney

You should pay quite a lot of attention to the selection of pipes for the bath. The fire safety of the steam room, as well as the difficulty of maintenance and microclimate characteristics, and much more, depend on the correct choice of material. Let's consider all the features of this issue in more detail.

Types of pipes for baths

When making pipes for a steam room, a variety of materials can be used:

1. Black metal.
2. Ceramics.
3. Asbestos-cement building.
4. Brickwork.
5. Stainless steel.
6. Sandwich panels.

Each variety has its own characteristics, which we will discuss later.

Ferrous metal pipes

Ferrous metal is used extremely often in the manufacture of pipes. The main advantage is its low cost. It should be borne in mind that compared to brickwork, ferrous metal pipes are approximately 80% cheaper. However, it is worth considering a fairly large number of disadvantages:

1. Heavy weight. Ferrous metal pipes, as a rule, are quite heavy. Therefore, the work of attaching it becomes significantly more complicated.
2. High fire hazard. The walls of steel pipes heat up in a short time to a fairly high temperature. As a result, surrounding materials may heat up and catch fire.
3. Fragility of the structure due to corrosion instability. As is well known, metals are susceptible to water, resulting in corrosion on the surface. Because of this, the metal begins to rot and the strength is significantly reduced.

In addition, do not forget that when the furnace heats up, a fairly large amount of condensate can form on the pipe. Similar system has many more disadvantages than advantages. However, one positive side often becomes decisive - if you need to save money, then ferrous metal pipes are more suitable than other materials.

Asbestos cement pipes

Asbestos pipe in Lately used extremely often. It is produced on the basis of asbestos, which is a non-flammable silicate mineral. Among the main advantages are corrosion resistance. At the same time, in comparison with brickwork, asbestos-cement construction is much cheaper. However, there are several significant disadvantages:

1. Due to a significant decrease in the heat capacity, the thrust indicator decreases. As a result, smoke may leak from the stove into the room.
2. A fairly large amount of condensate is released on the surface of the product.
3. Design features determine the inability to install in an inclined position.
4. It is impossible to create hatches through which soot can be cleaned from the structure.
5. The pipe cannot be used at high temperatures. It is worth considering the fact that at temperatures above 360 ​​degrees Celsius, the material begins to crack and break.

It should be remembered that the material in question can release when heated strongly harmful substances. An asbestos-cement structure can be called a fairly economical proposal that cannot last long. If there is a need to save Money, then pipes made of this material are quite a profitable and reasonable solution.

The use of bricks in the construction of masonry

The traditional version of the chimney can be called brickwork. The peculiarity of this design is the need to erect the structure at the time of construction of the structure itself. Most often, brickwork has rectangular shape, which determines the accumulation of soot in the corners. It is possible to create a round shape, but when carrying out such work, serious difficulties arise. The advantages include:

1. High temperature resistance.
2. The design provides additional heat transfer, which reduces the likelihood of condensation.
3. Quite an attractive appearance.
4. High reliability and resistance to environmental influences.

But there are several significant disadvantages:

1. The construction of such a structure requires very large funds.
2. Due to the high porosity of the surface, a very large amount of soot accumulates on it. This is why serious cleaning problems arise.
3. Heavy weight. When considering brickwork, one should take into account the fact that the structure exerts very high pressure. That is why a solid foundation must be created under the stove and the chimney itself.
4. Due to exposure to soot and other combustion products, as well as high humidity low-quality material is destroyed. If the construction technology of a structure is violated, it can collapse very quickly.

In addition, do not forget that strong vortex flows form in the corners, resulting in serious problems with traction. Many people solve most masonry problems by installing stainless steel pipe inside the masonry.

Stainless steel pipes

There are quite a few reasons why condensation occurs on the inner or outer surface of pipes. This is why some experts recommend using stainless steel as the main material when making pipes. This type of metal is highly resistant to atmospheric influences and can last for quite a long period. Among the main advantages we note:

1. The structure is lightweight, which means there is no need to build a special foundation.
2. Due to increased resistance to high humidity, the design has a long service life.
3. The inner surface is smooth, which means there is no chance of plaque accumulation.
4. Easy to do installation work.
5. Stainless steel pipe can be installed at the time of construction of the structure or after completion of this work.

In addition, we will pay attention to the reasonable cost of this material.

However, there are several disadvantages, among which we note:

1. There is a need to carry out insulation work on the outside. Otherwise, the temperature difference causes the formation large quantity condensate
2. In some cases, stainless steel does not fit the design style of the building.

If desired, you can decorate the pipe using a special casing that imitates brickwork or other finishing material.

Ceramics

For many years, ceramics have been used as the main material. This is due to the fact that this material can withstand high temperatures. Often finished design is closed in a special casing. The advantages of ceramic construction include the following points:

1. The material accumulates heat well. Ceramics heats up well and also retains heat for a long period.
2. Ceramics tolerate temperature changes. This material can withstand several cycles of heating and sudden cooling without changing the structure. This property of ceramics has been known for many years.
3. High humidity and chemicals are not corrosive.
4. High degree of versatility. Ceramic pipes are suitable for the most various ovens and structures.
5. All surfaces are smooth, which reduces the likelihood of soot formation.
6. The structure is practically not affected by condensation.

However, there are certain disadvantages, among which we note the large weight of the structure. That is why it is necessary to create additional fastening elements. Many experts point out that the difficulties in performing installation work are completely worth it.

In addition, do not forget that ceramics is very fragile and is susceptible to strong impacts. That is why in many cases special protective covers are used.

Sandwich pipes

A modern building material can be called sandwich pipes. Their features are as follows:

1. The structure is multilayer, which determines the greater thickness. It became possible to produce this type of material only with the advent of modern technologies.
2. Each layer is responsible for specific functions. An example is that there are insulating materials on the outside, stronger ones on the inside that can withstand significant loads.
3. The cost of sandwich panels is very high. This is due to the high complexity of production of sandwich panels, as well as the use of a fairly large amount of expensive materials.
4. When creating a chimney, technology must be followed, otherwise the design will not have the proper performance qualities.

In addition, you should take into account the durability of the chimney - many manufacturers guarantee a service life of more than 10 years.

Features of installation work

There are quite a few features regarding installation work that need to be taken into account. An example is the information below:

1. To begin with, a hole is created for the chimney of the appropriate diameter.
2. A metal apron is being installed.
3. After completing the preparatory stage, the installation of the chimney itself is carried out. To begin with, the fastenings are prepared in increments of about 20 centimeters.
4. The structure is assembled, after which the pipe is connected to the furnace.
5. The damper is installed.
6. The last structural element to be installed is the outer part of the pipe, rising above the roof.
7. Experts recommend securing protective bends that will prevent precipitation from getting inside the oven.

In general, we can say that there are no special problems when performing this work. When carrying out installation work, attention should be paid to insulating the pipe from external materials, which ignite when heated strongly.

In conclusion, we note that before carrying out the work, the development of an appropriate project should be carried out. Also, to implement the project you will need the most various instruments, as well as help, since lifting a pipe and other work is difficult to do alone.

Before you begin installation, familiarize yourself with how to properly install a chimney pipe in a bathhouse with your own hands. The process largely depends on how competently you can choose a design, based on the parameters of the stove and the volume of the steam room.

In addition, it is necessary to consciously approach the choice of material, set of elements and installation method. And also in this article we will talk about the main design features of chimney systems, and the problems that can arise if installed incorrectly.

Design features of a chimney for a steam room

1. The chimney is vertical design, mounted inside the bathhouse or on the facade of the building. Its main task is to remove fuel combustion products at a speed sufficient to maintain natural traction in the oven.
2. A well-designed design ensures quick heating of the bath, maintaining the necessary microclimate in the steam room and economical fuel consumption.
3. Most common problems smoke exhaust channels: Extremely strong draft, which will lead to rapid burning of fuel without adequate heating of the steam room. Traction too weak. An inadequate amount of oxygen enters the firebox, as a result of which the combustion process is interrupted and the thermal conductivity of the stove decreases.
4. Proper installation of the chimney is a guarantee of your own safety and the longest possible service life.

Choosing material for a chimney in a bathhouse

The market offers a wide range of raw materials for the production of smoke exhaust structures; let’s briefly name each of them.

It is low cost and easy to install, however, due to its porous structure it can accumulate condensate.

Black metal:

It conducts heat very well and heats up quickly, but lacks corrosion resistance. It has a large mass, which complicates the installation process and requires the construction of a foundation.

Brick chimney:

The model is quite expensive and difficult to install, although its appearance is very pleasant. If you do not line the inside, the structure becomes clogged with soot, susceptible to condensation, dampness, and subsequently cracking and allowing carbon monoxide to leak.

Ceramic chimneys:

Due to its strength, ceramics can withstand high temperature, durable and can be used with any type of boiler. However, the installation of such a chimney is very expensive, and the design itself is poorly maintainable. Therefore, installation should only be carried out by a qualified technician, and the owners will have to treat this ventilation system with care.

Stainless steel:

Majority bath complexes- home or commercial - use this option. This is due to excellent resistance to atmospheric agents; soot virtually does not accumulate, and the installation will last for many years. The appearance fits well with any bathhouse exterior; the shiny surface is pleasing to the eye. In addition, this design is quite easy to maintain.

A glass smoke duct is a good choice, since this material has minimal inertness and is resistant to moisture and corrosion. The constant increase in the cost of installing such a structure is due to the complexity of the process and the high cost of fire-resistant glass in general. Therefore, such chimneys are the most expensive systems these days, although the cost is fully justified by the advantages of this option.

What pipes are used

You need to know that depending on how the chimney is installed sauna stove depends on the likelihood of using a bathhouse without a threat to your health.

The chimney installation scheme comes in two configurations: internal and external. Depending on this, the chimney elements are selected.

Types of installation

Installation can take place on brackets through the wall or straight through the roof.

In the first case, the entire system is carried into the wall, and then rises, adjacent to the bathhouse, but without passing through it. This looks more aesthetically pleasing, and has the following advantages:

• the free space of the steam room is not used;
• there is no risk of getting burned on steel or stone;
• less chance of fire;
• It’s easier - you don’t have to make a hole through the entire attic.
• cases of smoke are easier to detect, as well as to track the general condition.

But at the same time:

• heat loss increases, since steam actually immediately enters the outside;
• the installation itself is more difficult due to the need to comply with the dimensions of the connection between the hole in the wall and the parts of the product;
• The heating of the pipe is greater due to the fact that the gases escape in the horizontal direction. With this arrangement, the resistance of the flue gases when moving through the channel increases;
• In terms of the number of elements, this option is 10% more expensive than the usual one.

When installing smoke exhaust systems in a straight line through the roof, the chimney is located straight, without bends, it departs from the boiler and goes upward, where it crosses the ceiling and exits on the back side of the roof. Advantages of such a connection:

1. Stable draft due to the location of the chimney closer to the roof ridge.
2. The condensate container is kept warm, so its cleaning pocket is dry and clean. This extends the service life.
3. Cold bridges do not form in the walls, and thermal insulation is not compromised.
4. The stability of the smoke exhaust duct is higher due to the fastenings to the roof. The fasteners themselves can be chosen cheaper than for the option on the facade.
5. The aesthetics of the structure are not spoiled by side smoke outlets.
6. Only a small part of the structure is located outside, which deteriorates over time from snow and rain. You can inspect and clean most of it without leaving the building.
7. You can use non-insulated parts of the chimney that are located inside the bathhouse.
8. This option is easier and 10% cheaper to install than when outputting through a wall.
9. Flue gases go up, there is no obstacle to their exit. Heating is less than with a horizontal connection, since the resistance to smoke flow is minimal.

However, there are also weaknesses:

1. The probability of “missing” the occurrence of a fire is higher, since smoke occurs in the ceilings that are located in the attic and on the roof, and they are simply not visible until the fire appears.
2. Heat loss through the roof. Tightness is restored when waterproofing is installed before coating.
3. Decrease usable area, because according to the safety requirements around chimney there should be nothing for the bath.
4. Increased costs for changing the roof and ceiling of the steam room, in particular, after finishing the final finishing.
5. If the integrity of the smoke exhaust structure is damaged, the bathhouse begins to smoke.
6. Condensation leaks and accumulated soot spoil the appearance of the roof.
7. Burns from heated parts are possible in emergency situations.

When deciding on the installation method, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• dimensions of the building - if it is very small, then it is logical to make an external structure;
• the steam room is built from scratch or in an old room - in the first case, you can immediately think about the issue of insulation;
• Do you need to heat adjacent rooms?

External placement

An external smoke channel device is more expensive and difficult to install. This is due to increased requirements for compliance with the dimensions of the connection between the hole in the wall and parts of the product. For external installation, it is necessary to use double-walled chimneys to avoid the formation of condensation and fire. It is external structures that are the least flammable, since the smoke is instantly directed outside, rather than circulating through a pipe located in the building. The advantage of such a system is the absence of the need to make a hole in the ceiling and roof and saving of internal space. At the same time, the likelihood of poisoning carbon monoxide is reduced to a minimum.

Internal placement

The main advantage of the internal location of the chimney is the easy provision of draft in the chimney structure, which is achieved by the vertical direction of the exhaust gases. In this design, the main part will be located in the interior of the building, which allows the bath room to heat up much faster. However, from a fire safety point of view, this design is more dangerous, since it is much more difficult to notice smoke in the ceiling or in the attic.

Is it possible to install a sandwich chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands?

The use of this design allows you to prevent and protect the room from possible fires. Thanks to the insulation, the heating temperature of the pipe usually does not rise.

There is a certain sequence that accompanies proper self-assembly. Strict compliance with the rules and recommendations of the manufacturer, guaranteeing the uninterrupted operation of the chimney system.

What should you pay attention to when installing a chimney in a bathhouse?

Below are guidelines on what to focus on first.

How to choose the size and shape of a chimney

The small cross-sectional size will prevent the removal of fuel products in the required quantity. The volumetric cross-section, on the contrary, contributes to the movement of smoke too quickly, which will not allow proper heating bath room. This, in turn, will increase fuel costs. You should take responsibility for this point, since the result will depend on it.

Deciding on the form is easy if you take into account the basic principle of its operation. Chimneys tend to heat up unevenly, as a result of which smoke comes out to the roof surface along the central axis. It follows that correct form- circle. Cylindrical structures heat the room much faster and do not require unnecessary financial costs.

Chimney with rectangular cross-section provoke turbulence that interferes with the necessary traction. A rectangular configuration is only permissible when it comes to heating devices, which do not require powerful traction.

Pipe diameter

The scale is determined by the degree of power draft of the sauna stove and is located in the intermediate range from 115 to 270 (mm). However, in order to accurately determine the diameter, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the requirements specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. If you do not have a diagram for installing a chimney for a bathhouse with your own hands, then it will be enough to know the ratio of the cross-sectional diameters different forms. It looks like this:

• cylindrical – 1 to 10;
• rectangular - 1 to 1.5.

For brick chimneys, the minimum cross-sectional diameter should be 140x140 mm.

The successful operation of a chimney system primarily depends on how accurately the pipe size is determined.

Flue height

According to the standard, its height should be at least 5 meters. Calculation of the height of the chimney is carried out in accordance with the main technical characteristics materials.

The channel should be located at least half a meter above the roof ridge and not below its level. It is worth considering the thickness roofing and the angle of the roof slope. The height is selected without taking into account the chimney “umbrella”.

It is necessary to study in as much detail as possible the information on how to properly make a chimney pipe in a bathhouse and all the details related to its installation, because reliability, service life, performance and, above all, your safety will depend on its quality. Any seemingly insignificant mistake can provoke irreversible consequences.

First you need to familiarize yourself with the main instructions of specialists and instructions (if available).

Preparatory stage

The areas where the smoke duct passes through the ceilings must first be protected. Step by step guide For this stage of installing a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands it looks like this:

• Preparing the passage pipe. It is required to fill its exterior with basalt wool.
• Next, you need to insulate the inside of the unit - decide on the installation point on the ceiling and prepare a hole of the desired shape.
• In the area where it meets the ceiling, spread another thermal insulation layer and then proceed to the cutting device.
• Be sure to leave a small gap between the passage unit and the smoke channel.

Roof work

Start this stage by dismantling the roof:

• It is necessary to determine the dimensions from both the internal and external areas of the roof, taking into account the roof slope (slope).
• Cut a hole inside the roof. To do this, cover the opening areas with metal sheets on both edges, the thickness of which should be 0.5 (mm). You need to make 4 holes measuring 450 by 450 (mm), using the square section method. The scale depends largely on the adapter.
• A roof flashing or master flash is used to pass the chimney through the roof. Their main task is to seal the passage and protect against moisture.

Please note: the master flush must be placed under the top edge of the roof to avoid leakage. Also, seal the joint with the pipe and secure everything with roofing screws.

Passage through the wall

We invite you to familiarize yourself in more detail with two installation schemes with detailed descriptions.

In the case of installing a chimney for a bathhouse with your own hands with a side outlet, the process is carried out as follows:

1 installation option

Passage through the wall, outside the bathhouse. Choosing a chimney for wood stove in the bath you need to stop at a stainless steel pipe with a thickness of 0.8 mm. We install an adapter on the furnace pipe (if you have a metal one) (this is the starting element when assembling condensate), then a single-wall pipe of at least 0.5 m or a tube heat exchanger (if you plan to have hot water in the washroom). We install a damper on the heat exchanger. We will talk about the need for a gate in a separate article.

An important point: to pass through walls and ceilings, it is necessary to use a sandwich.

The section of the wall (as well as the ceiling) is the most fire hazardous in the bathhouse, so it is necessary to take the equipment of this unit seriously. We propose installing a PPU (ceiling-passage unit) inside the steam room; the opening is closed from the outside with a screen (stainless steel sheet). If your wall is wide, then you will need a second PPU for installation outside. Ferrum's assortment includes polyurethane foam of various configurations. We will go into more detail in a separate article on this element.

It is necessary to lay loosely in the passage unit kaolin wool or sheets of technical mineral wool with a layer of 5-7 cm in order to remove “excess” heat. There is no need to add more cotton wool, as this may cause the sandwich to overheat. Next, we attach a sandwich tee to the pipe outside the bathhouse. We install a condensate drain at the bottom of the tee. On top of the tee we attach 1.0 m sandwich pipes in the amount of 3 pieces or more, depending on the height of the bath.

Given the weight of double-walled chimneys, you will need to install a mounting platform and a console from below to strengthen the kit. For stability from above to the wall of the bathhouse, we attach the chimney with a wall clamp. The final element of the main pipe will be the head.

The next stage of work will be connecting a 75 liter water tank to the heat exchanger, but we will talk about this separately.

Special instructions:

• After you have checked that all the chimney elements are in place and fit together well, we recommend sealing the joints with silicone sealant at 150° before installation.
• During installation, all modules are attached inside the previous element with the narrow end (along the condensate).
• Do not forget that all joints of the sandwich pipe, elbow, tee and adapter must be secured with clamps. All these elements are available in a wide range in the Ferrum line, which can be found on the website.
• The lengths of the chimney elements must be selected so that the connection does not end up inside the ceilings.
• If there is a tee in the chimney, then it must be placed on the mounting platform with fastening. The distance between sites must be at least 5.0 m from each other.
• To pass through the floors, it is necessary to use a ceiling-passage assembly.

Installation option 2

Internal location of the chimney. In terms of the set of elements, this option is almost no different from the first. It is imperative to use a sandwich pipe to pass through the ceiling.

An additional element when installing inside a bathhouse is the roof trim.

Making and installing a protective (pass-through) box with your own hands

1. Make 4 metal sheets on a scale of 50 by 50 (cm) with holes cut out (in the middle) in accordance with the size of the pipe.
2. Using a welding machine, connect the existing sheets to each other or fasten them with self-tapping screws.
3. Insulate the resulting metal box using basalt wool, after which, make a foil coating on top of the previous layer.
4. Upon completion, a pipe is inserted into the box. The box is installed in the ceiling passages, after which it is fixed with screws.
5. Then secure it to the roof surface steel sheet with a pre-cut hole for the chimney.

Assembling the chimney structure

In cases where the stove is not located clearly under the ceiling opening, an elbow (bend) is used. But you shouldn’t overuse it, as soot and fumes can accumulate inside.

A head is attached on top, which you can build yourself in a simple way. But it is still recommended to purchase a ready-made version.

The outer pipe is designed as follows:

1. First, the knee is attached to the wall, and only then the main device.
2. A ready-made protective box filled with expanded clay is attached to the wall, from which the main part rises outward.
3. Then, from the outside of the room, a tee is attached to it. Each of the parts is connected in turn.

Fastening: how to properly install a chimney pipe in a bathhouse

Upon completion of the chimney assembly, attach the tee to the mounting platform and tightly compress all existing joints with clamps. A cone is placed on the last pipe (sandwich), an umbrella or deflector is placed on the cone to prevent precipitation from entering and wind blocking the smoke channel.

The pipe is more than 1.5 meters higher than the roof and is secured with a tension clamp.

Installation of a chimney

A window measuring at least 50x50cm is cut into the ceiling or wall covering. A pass-through unit with a hole equal to the diameter of the pipe plus 3-5 mm is mounted into this hole for free installation, which must be secured with special metal fasteners in pre-made holes, and then fastened to the wall. Then the pipe is inserted into the protective box. From the attic side, fill the metal box with expanded clay. As decorative element after installation you can use protective screen made of stainless steel, which in turn increases fire safety

Completion of installation work

Mistakes when installing a chimney in a bathhouse

• assembly based on smoke, not condensation. The most common and common mistake that very quickly damages the pipe.
• placement of wooden floors close to the pipes in the ceiling and walls. Savings on polyurethane foam.
• the use of materials that are strictly contraindicated for use as a smoke exhaust), since some of them can cause a fire.
• insufficient chimney height;
• grouping several chimney structures into one;
• arbitrary calculation of the scale and diameter of materials.

Installing a chimney is a very serious process that requires the necessary skills, attentiveness, patience, and a responsible approach to studying information about various installation methods. If you strictly follow the manufacturers' instructions or the tips given in this article, you will definitely not make mistakes in the process.

Remember that chimney repairs often cost many times more than just installation services. It is for this reason that it is better to follow all the rules and recommendations at the bathhouse design stage.

Not so long ago, bathhouses were built with “black-style” heating. This means that the smoke from the stove, which heated the entire room, was removed through a small window above the entrance. The slightest malfunction, or just forgotten window, and smoke immediately filled the entire room. Modern heating systems provide a chimney for a bath, which is made of brick, metal or ceramics. Combustion products are effectively removed outside the building, without even passing directly into the heated room. Also, when heating “on white,” the heat in the stove lasts longer, fuel materials are consumed more economically, and room ventilation improves.

The chimney is an integral part of the heating system, powered by fuel combustion Source kamin-expert.ru

Design features

Chimneys for sauna stoves are constantly being improved; a variety of materials are used in their manufacture, and new technologies are emerging. Knowledge of the features of different modifications allows you to install them correctly, ensure the required fire safety measures, and ensure regular cleaning and replacement of components.

According to their configuration, chimneys can be internal or external. Domestic, are brought out through the wall using adapters. The design allows you to save useful space in the room and eliminates the possibility of burns or fire of internal equipment. But there is also a minus - low efficiency - a considerable portion of the heat simply “leaves” into the atmosphere.

External chimneys lead directly from the stove to the outside through ceiling and the roof. The required shape and direction is given through a variety of fittings, and safety is ensured correct selection insulation in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003 standards.

Single-circuit chimneys made of steel

For a number of reasons (the likelihood of condensation, thermal expansion), such devices are practically not used on their own, but are installed in the form of sleeves for brick pipes. The material is designed for temperatures up to 1100 degrees and has high heat retention parameters. Chimneys are made of stainless, alloy, painted or galvanized steel. Some parts are made of brass.

Source strojdvor.ru

The benefits include:

Easy to install.

Affordable price.

Replacement parts of the smoke exhaust unit.

Light soiling that does not require frequent cleaning of the structure.

Possibility of operation in different climatic regions.

The disadvantages include the appearance of carbon deposits on the walls and the formation of corrosion processes. The optimal material for pipes is steel, which contains at least 17% chromium with a wall thickness of up to 1.5 mm.

Double-walled stainless steel sandwich chimneys

The correct installation of a chimney in a bathhouse for a wood-burning stove requires installation strictly according to specific instructions. Otherwise, the wall insulation contained inside the pipe will absorb moisture, which can lead to negative consequences. Compared to its classic steel counterpart, the sandwich is more reliable and durable.

When purchasing, you must carefully measure the diameter of the working pipe so that it fits the outlet element of the furnace. An important factor is not only the grade of steel, but also the type of insulation used. The best option- stone wool. The desired density is 120 kg/cubic meter with an insulating layer thickness of at least 40 mm. Pay attention to the assembly. For internal models it is carried out “by condensate”, and for external ones - taking into account the smoke output.

Source aliansgk.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects from construction companies represented at the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

It is prohibited to lay a horizontal part of the chimney longer than one meter. The total height of the outlet channel should be more than five meters, which will ensure stable and good traction.

It is prohibited to carry out work with tools that do not have rubberized insulating surfaces. The layout of the structure is worked out in advance. When installing chimneys for a stove in a bathhouse, several important rules are followed:

The pipe should not come into contact with furniture, wallpaper, electrical wiring or other communications.

An empty space is left between the ceiling and the sheathing (more than 30 cm for uninsulated pipes and at least 15 cm if there is insulation).

Contact of the chimney and wood with the exhaust channel is not allowed.

If the pipe is laid through an unheated attic space, use thermal insulation to prevent condensation.

Do not place the chimney near combustible or flammable materials.

When planning the exhaust system, the number of components is taken into account, depending on the height of the device.

Source rinnipool.ru

Installation nuances

After preparing the tool, unpacking the chimney elements and counting them, specialists begin installing the product.

All work is divided into several stages:

Execute marking with determination of the distance from the bottom of the furnace to the center of the outlet channel. This parameter is marked on the wall at the location of the firebox.

Display stove width and outlet pipe axis in relation to the resulting size.

Designated contours, according to which the wall or ceiling will be disassembled, taking into account fire safety standards (draw a square using a tape measure, building level and a pencil.

Dismantling designated part of the wall partition. Holes are made in the wooden sheathing in the corners and in the center. Cut using an electric jigsaw according to the existing markings.

Isolation cut with a special knife and removed from the wall.

Wooden part protect non-combustible slabs with a thickness of 30 mm or more. cut out round hole for pipe outlet. A flange of suitable size is used as a template.

Security element fastened self-tapping screws, for which four sockets are pre-drilled. Bushings for inserting screws are placed between the wall and the sheet.

Placed on the floor screen protection, preventing the entry of sparks, heat and embers.

Source banya-ili-sauna.ru

Exterior works

The fragment to be removed is marked from the outer part of the bath. Insulation is installed at the point where the pipe passes through the wall, taking into account the required amount of material.

The thickness of the walls is measured, strips of basalt wool with foil are cut. They are installed along the prepared contour with the shiny surface inward. When laying mineral wool, maintain a minimum of gaps between parts of the insulation. The process continues until there remains a hole similar to the diameter of the outlet pipe.

Video description

What mistakes happen when installing stoves, watch in the video:

Assembly

The chimney structure is assembled in parts. First, the bracket fastener, tee and horizontal element laid from the stove are connected. The parts are mounted sequentially, with corrugated clamps directed downwards. The connection points are treated with a sealant that is resistant to increased thermal effects.

Remove the drip plug, install it on the bottom of the tee, secure it with a clamp, do not use sealant. The further assembly procedure consists of the following steps:

The straight part of the chimney is fixed to the tee; it will be laid through the wall ceiling.

A square flange is installed on the horizontal tube and the structure is placed in the hole on the wall.

Using a building level, the verticality and degree of tightening of the fasteners are controlled, and the self-tapping screws are tightened in the sockets of the triangle brackets.

Source 36doors.ru

The flange is fixed using self-tapping screws.

The structure is extended upward, connecting the component parts together using clamps and sealant.

All nuts are tightened securely, since the chimney is constantly exposed to wind.

Mount the bend on the roof overhang using a pair of elbows with a bend angle of 135 degrees.

Three elements are assembled, installed on the straight part, and the upper elbow is secured with a clamp.

After installing the straight part, a deflector and a cone are installed.

The further procedure is carried out indoors.

Install a single-level pipe with a valve (gate). The outlet pipe of the furnace is connected to it.

Source banya-expert.com

Installation of an internal chimney

The internal chimney is similar to its external counterpart. All connections are made using clamps and sealant. Installation differences include:

The insulation sheet is placed in its place immediately, and the stove is placed on it. A single-wall pipe or economizer is connected to the nozzle

A damper, a water heating tank, a smoke damper, and a mesh heater are connected to the direct element.

The parts are mounted with the corrugated part down so that the internal element overlaps the wall of the lower compartment. This will protect the insulation from condensation drops.

An important stage of installing a chimney is the correct arrangement of passages through the ceilings and roof.

Main stages of work

Installation sequence of the internal chimney:

A diagram of the future chimney is marked on the ceiling.

The passage is constructed in accordance with the standards and requirements of SNiP.

A square hole is made.

A special dividing box is placed on the straight part.

Between vertical walls and the cut nest leaves about 20 millimeters of free space.

The chimney is expanded with an additional vertical segment.

The box is applied to the ceiling cladding and fixed.

In the attic, basalt cardboard is laid around the dividing part, and expanded clay or mineral wool is laid in the inside.

Source uteplovdome.ru

Commissioning

The chimney must be inspected, paying special attention to the quality and tightness of the joints. Clean the inside of the structure with a dry cloth. All extra items are removed from the pipe and firebox. Test ignition is carried out using a small amount of fuel. At this stage, the efficiency of draft, the presence of smoke at the joints, and its drawing into the room are determined.

After testing, after a few hours the oven is fully heated. You should not cram the combustible materials used into the firebox to capacity; this can lead to failure of the chimney and a fire. All flammable elements and partitions near the pipe must be insulated, the distance between them and the exhaust structure must be at least half a meter. Visual inspection and preventive cleaning are carried out once every six months.

Video description

About the installation of fire-fighting fluff in the following video:

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service installation of stoves and fireplaces. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Conclusion

A correctly selected and installed chimney is a guarantee of high-quality operation of the stove in your bathhouse. It is strongly recommended that installation be carried out by professionals who will do everything quickly, and most importantly efficiently, and will give a written guarantee for their work.