The construction of the foundation always ends with the formation of the base. For this purpose they use different materials, and brickwork is especially popular. To perform it correctly, you must adhere to certain rules and strictly follow generally accepted instructions.

Why is a brick plinth laid on the foundation?

The basement is an important part of the house, which absorbs significant loads from higher structures. It is a kind of continuation of the strip foundation, so high-quality materials with high moisture resistance must be used for its construction. For such purposes, ordinary red brick is ideal. When using it, the following goals can be achieved:

• you can get an additional waterproofing layer, since brick does not allow moisture to pass through well;
• it is possible to level the surface of the foundation, which is especially important in the presence of significant differences;
• it is possible to reduce the cost of pouring and laying a concrete plinth;
• ordinary red brick has high strength and wear resistance, so there is no need to worry about premature destruction of the base.

Tools and materials used during work

To lay brick on the foundation surface, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• trowel or trowel. Used for laying and mixing the solution, removing excess;
• bushhammer. It will come in handy when it is necessary to split a brick into pieces of a certain size;
• plumb line Designed to check the verticality of the created structure;
• construction cord. It is stretched between the outer bricks and allows masonry to be carried out strictly along one line;
• brick ordering is used to speed up the masonry process, since it marks rows according to the thickness of all elements present;
• wooden rule. Used for quality control outer surface the structure being created;
• container for preparing mortar or concrete mixer;
• building level. Improves the quality of the base as it helps control the presence of even minor level differences.

To create high-quality brickwork, it is necessary to purchase a sufficient amount of sand, water and cement. Sometimes clay or lime is added to the mortar. If they are present in the solution, they also need to be prepared for work. In order not to encounter a shortage of any materials while laying the foundation, all of them should be purchased with a reserve of 7–10%.

Waterproofing and marking

Waterproofing and marking the foundation for the plinth must be carried out at the initial stage of work. The service life and appearance of the created structure depend on the correct execution of these processes.

Foundation waterproofing

Waterproofing the foundation along a horizontal surface is necessary to prevent the penetration of capillary moisture into the brickwork and wall structure. In this case, experts recommend installing the waterproof layer twice. The first time the waterproofing is laid on the surface of the foundation, the second time - on the finished base.

Roofing felt is most often used for this purpose. It is best to lay it in two layers, so that the first overlaps the seams of the second by 10–15 cm. Installation of roofing felt can only be done on a perfectly flat surface, on which there are no dents or bulges.

The maximum permissible difference in height should be 1.5 cm. If it exceeds 2 cm, it is necessary to level the surface. This can be done using a thickened masonry joint or a thin screed made of ordinary cement-sand mortar.

Installation of waterproofing in the form of roofing felt is carried out in several ways:

• directly onto the surface of the foundation without the use of additional adhesives;
• using hot bitumen;
• heating the surface of the roofing material with a burner.

Foundation marking

Experts lay the brick on a cement-sand mortar, but it is first recommended to lay it out dry. This is necessary in order to determine the thickness of the vertical seam. Standard value 1 cm. If after laying out it turns out that the row protrudes or is shorter from the foundation, it is recommended to increase or decrease the width of the seam by 0.2 cm.

This approach will help to carry out masonry from solid elements without halves or quarters. Such a base will look more attractive. If you cannot do without halves and quarters, you need to accurately determine their size and placement.

After laying out the materials without mortar, it is necessary to mark the locations of the vertical joints on the foundation. After this, each element is carefully removed and installed using an adhesive. The bricks are laid in the same order. Otherwise, the vertical seams may move due to deviations from the standard dimensions of the materials used.

Leveling the foundation surface with brickwork

Several techniques are used to level the foundation surface:

• the use of formwork into which concrete is poured;
• brick installation;
• covered with mesh followed by finishing with plaster;
• installation of an additional layer of thermal insulation.

When leveling the foundation, it is necessary to adhere to standards regarding the thickness of the horizontal seam. The largest value should not exceed 1.2 cm. In this case, the deviation in level for every 10 m should not be more than 1.5 cm.

Brick plinth laying technology

Laying bricks on the surface of the foundation must be carried out taking into account certain rules, which will ensure the high quality of the created structure.

Preparing the necessary materials

The solution must be prepared immediately before performing the main work. It must be used within 3 hours as it quickly hardens and loses its properties. The preparation of cement-sand mortar can be done in a concrete mixer or done manually.

Take a basin of a suitable size and fill it with sand and cement (4:1), using a special mortar shovel. After mixing the dry ingredients, add water and 2-3 drops of liquid soap (this will give the solution additional plasticity). All ingredients are thoroughly mixed to obtain a mixture with a homogeneous consistency.

Experts recommend pre-soaking the brick in plain water for 15 minutes. Laying such material will be much easier and will allow you to easily eliminate minor defects that appear during work. After pre-soaking the material, seams are obtained that will be much stronger than usual. This is achieved by the absence of penetration of capillary moisture from the solution into the masonry.

Brick laying technology

For high-quality bricklaying, use the following instructions:

• First, the corners are set, which should be at the same level. A cord is stretched between them for laying the next bricks.
• The solution for the bottom row is applied directly to the roofing material, spread with a trowel so that it does not reach the edges by 2-3 cm.
• The thickness of the seam is usually 12 mm, and with reinforcement it reaches 16 mm (metal mesh is used).
• The corner is formed from two bricks laid at right angles. For reliable fixation, use a construction hammer.
• Excess solution is removed with a trowel. It is applied to the side faces of red brick to form vertical seams.
• The position of each brick is checked using a level and plumb line.
• All masonry elements are carefully pressed to the surface, which ensures the reliability of the created structure.
• The bricks at the corners are laid several rows higher, which allows a cord to be pulled between them to form the entire masonry.
• During work, the quality of masonry corners is checked with a square, level and plumb line.

Acceptable errors:

• in the vertical plane up to 10 mm;
• in horizontal – 5 mm.

If small defects are detected, they can be eliminated by varying the thickness of the seam. But if the differences in level are large, it is impossible to get rid of them in this way. Therefore, in the process of laying each row, it is necessary to pay due attention to each brick. Particular care must be taken to form the corners, which affect the quality of the entire structure.

The base of the bathhouse is located very close to the ground. This means that cold and dampness can negatively affect the entire structure of the bathhouse, even to the point of destruction. To prevent these inevitable processes, the base and foundation must be properly insulated. This article will consider several options for insulating the base of a bathhouse.

One of the methods for insulating the base is the use of extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation is absolutely not afraid of increased humidity.

Important! Although the technology of insulation with this material is more difficult, experience shows that it is much more effective.

Using Penoplex to insulate the basement is perfect solution, because it is not afraid of rodents and insects, moreover, the structure of the material repels moisture. The process of working on insulation with Penoplex is as follows:

• A waterproofing membrane is laid on the foundation.
• Next, Penoplex 12 cm thick is attached.
• A membrane is re-laid on top of the Penoplex as drainage.
• To create a filter layer, geotextiles are laid down.
• Finally, the foundation blind area is insulated.

How to quickly and inexpensively insulate the base of a log bathhouse

If the bathhouse has already been built, then insulating the basement inside the room will be more difficult, because you will have to dismantle the floors. Therefore, the only way to do this work is only from the outside.

Note! Insulation of the basement indoors is relevant in cases where major renovation bathhouse finishing, and insulation work is also being carried out.

This work can be done in the following sequence:

• A trench 400 mm wide is dug along the perimeter of the bathhouse. If there are rotten logs, they must be removed.
• Before installing new logs, they should be treated with drying oil, antiseptic or motor oil (spray).
• Next, jute inter-crown insulation is laid.
• The logs are jammed.
• After this, the seams are caulked with jute and covered with gypsum putty mixed with sawdust.
• Now the base is covered with metal mesh and plastered.
• When the plaster has dried, the structure must be covered with roofing felt.
• At the very end, all that remains is to fill the trench back up. In this case, the earth can be mixed with sawdust.

To insulate the base with foam plastic, you should use a material whose density is 25 kg/m3.

Important! This material can accommodate various insects, therefore, when laying it, additional protection should be created.

Thus, work on insulating the base with foam plastic is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The first step is to mark the base. This is necessary, because foam insulation will increase its size.
2. Next, the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust.
3. The entire surface is covered with liquid waterproofing.
4. It is recommended to glue foam plastic from the corner of the foundation. To do this, use a notched spatula and adhesive. For additional fastening, each sheet is fixed with dowels.

1. When the foam is glued, the entire structure must be reinforced. To do this, a reinforcing mesh will be sufficient, which is embedded with a spatula in a thin layer of glue.
2. After complete drying, the base should be painted. To do this, the surface is primed and painted with acrylic paint.

These are the simple methods used to carry out work on insulating the base of a bathhouse. By following the detailed instructions, all work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

Brick bathhouse: building it correctly with your own hands

If you are the owner land plot and are planning its arrangement, you will definitely think about building a bathhouse. As building material For it you can use: timber, wood, brick, foam blocks. Today the object of our attention is a brick bathhouse - we build it with our own hands from start to finish.

Of course, a popular bathhouse is a wooden one, but a solid brick structure would also be a good solution. Moreover, compared to a log house, such a building is more durable, more fireproof, and if you trim it on the inside with wood, you can get a replacement for the atmosphere of a log bathhouse. A brick building will cost more, but you can use special masonry with voids, which are often filled with cheap material.

The interior of a brick bathhouse.

Material selection and design

Advice!
Before you begin construction, you should decide on the budget that you will be able to spend.
After all, it is from this that they start when choosing the sizes and dimensions of your bathhouse building.
The optimal size is 4 x 5 meters, since these parameters provide sufficient room area at a minimum price.

Absolutely any construction must begin with a project. If we consider a budget option for a bathhouse design, the plan for a brick bathhouse may look like this: steam room, bathroom, dressing room and sink. You will have to take into account a lot, for example, the location of the rooms, sewer drainage, water supply and how you are going to heat your steam room. An example of a bath plan is shown in the photo:

When choosing brick as a building material, it is better to buy different types this product.

• Hollow brick is perfect for walls and partitions, but it is not used for the stove and bathhouse foundation.
• Red clay brick is the most suitable material for the construction of foundations, walls, and pipes.
• Fireclay bricks are used for furnaces.
• Sand-lime brick is recommended for the construction of walls.

A bathhouse made of sand-lime brick will be an ideal solution, since the construction will be monolithic and strong.

Construction

All that remains is to choose a place for your steam room, and it must be dry. If there is a pond near your site, then step back 30 meters from it, and the distance from neighboring buildings will have to be maintained at 12 meters, as required by fire safety. If you plan to make a brick one yourself, then it will be easier to attach it to any residential building. Moreover, if you have already encountered brickwork, then you can easily build this simple structure.

Strip foundation device

In order for your building structure to be stable, you will need a strong, reliable foundation that can support all load-bearing elements.

Brick walls are heavy, so you need to lay a strip foundation; the work process can be done using stages:

1. A pit is dug around the perimeter 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide, sand is poured in and compacted with water, see photo:

Excavation pit and foundation.

1. As a second layer you will need crushed stone, which is backfilled with sand. Experts advise alternating sand and crushed stone several times in this sequence.
2. Next, the formwork and reinforcement are installed, everything is filled with cement mortar (photo).

Before cementing a foundation for a brick bathhouse, you need to calculate exactly where the sewer pipes will go; most often, according to the plan, they are placed under the foundation.

After the cement mortar has hardened, waterproofing must be laid; it can be done in several ways:

• By pasting method, using film, roll materials and waterproof mastic.
• Coating method, which uses bitumen-rubber or bitumen-polymer mixtures.
• Penetrating method, where a cement-sand mixture and special additives form excellent drainage.

The brick base for the bathhouse is made of red brick, which is laid out in several rows. Its construction begins after the foundation is installed, and the ventilation system of the bathhouse is installed in it.

The supporting structure for the walls is subject to precipitation and other atmospheric phenomena, so we cannot do without a competent drainage system.

Wall masonry

When building a brick bathhouse, you will need to decide which wall design to choose. Sometimes using masonry you can save a lot on material.

There are several options for brickwork of the bathhouse wall and its insulation:

1. Masonry of small thickness with its insulation indoors.
2. Thin masonry with its insulation from the outside, from the facade.
3. Well masonry - the internal space is filled with a heat insulator.
4. Solid masonry walls.

When laying walls, it is better to analyze and study several sources that contain step-by-step technology for this process, and review them in this article.

To perform masonry, you can use the following instructions:

Verifying the correctness of the masonry at the angle.

1. A cord is pulled along which the masonry is aligned.

The masonry is aligned along the cord

1. A row is laid and it is expected to dry for about 15 minutes.

Advice!
When erecting walls, you need to take into account the height of the room, at which two shelves should fit in the steam room, and calculate the location of the openings of the doors and windows of the bathhouse.
For which, during the work process, wooden blocks - plugs - are installed.

Roof construction

If the base of the building is ready, then you can begin to install the roof. Not only the protection of the supporting structure, but also the thermal insulation and construction of the chimney will depend on it. For the base of the roof, rafters with sheathing are installed, which is lined modern materials for the roof.

Arrangement of the bath structure inside

For interior design Any material will not suit your steam room, since the interior decoration of the brick bath should not get very hot so as not to cause a burn to human skin. For lining the inside of the wall and covering the floor, the most used material is considered to be natural lining. Tile is suitable for a shower or washroom; for a warm vestibule, plaster will be successful.

Work inside also involves installation plumbing equipment, installation of windows, doors. In any bathhouse design, the installation of a stove is important; of course, you can build a chimney for a bathhouse out of brick yourself, but it would be easier to order the stove itself or purchase it in a store and cover it with brick.

The metal stove is lined with brick.

Cost of a brick building

If you take into account all the work involved in installing a sauna house, then such construction will be more economical than a natural wooden frame. For example, if we calculate the size of a log house 3x4 m, then our budget will be empty by 60-63 thousand rubles.

The cost of materials for brick walls with insulation will be approximately 47 thousand rubles. True, this cost only includes materials, labor does not count. When hiring professionals, you will have to pay the same price.

The cost of constructing a foundation for a brick wall will be high compared to the cost of constructing a strip foundation for a log house.

Conclusion

After your building is completed, you can begin finishing, where any technology is allowed. Example interior decoration brick bathhouse, look at the photo:

Interior finishing of the bathhouse with clapboard.

And if your budget does not allow this, then simple, even masonry is also a good option.

Despite the high cost of a stone structure and the slow heating of the room, a bathhouse built of brick is more durable; a brick facade will not require repairs or special care.

The basement is, in fact, that visible part of the building that is based on the foundation and is a kind of transition from the base to the walls of the house. It is obvious that in addition to the load-bearing capacity, that is, the built-in strength potential to withstand the entire load from the structures located above, the base must also withstand all external influences, since it is located in perhaps the most vulnerable place. In this regard, any material from which this part of the building will be built requires a special approach to selection and effective protection during operation.

The basement belt can be constructed from reinforced concrete, rubble stone, building blocks or brick - all these options require certain labor costs. When building a private house, a brick plinth on a strip foundation is often chosen for the reasons that such a material is environmentally friendly (made from natural components), accessibility, including price, simplicity, or more precisely, clarity of construction, low thermal conductivity and good strength characteristics (naturally, when choosing high-quality bricks).

In order for a brick plinth on a reinforced concrete base to be reliable and last for many years without requiring any repairs, the work on its construction must be carried out in compliance with a number of rules. And let's start with what kind of brick can be used for these needs.

Materials for the construction of a brick plinth

What kind of brick is needed for the base?

If you plan to use brick to raise the plinth, then the first thing you need to do is choose the “right” and high-quality material, since not everyone is suitable for laying out this part of the structure.

Brick is made from various raw materials and according to different technologies, so products may differ in purpose. Some samples are suitable for internal partitions, others for external walls, others - , fourth - exclusively as cladding, and so on.

• Sand-lime brick is usually not used when constructing a plinth, since the products do not have sufficient strength simply due to the specifics of the manufacturing technology and the materials used for this.

Sand-lime brick is widely used for the construction of internal and external walls and partitions, but it is not suitable for a plinth, since it is not resistant to moisture. And for what it’s worth, there is always an excess of moisture in the area of ​​the foundation.

• Ceramic brick can be called the most suitable material not only for building a basement, but also for building or cladding the external walls of a house. Several varieties are produced on an industrial scale, for example, building (ordinary) bricks for building walls, and facing bricks, which are well suited for decorative finishing plinth and above the façade surfaces.

Such bricks are made from specially selected types of clay and quartz sand, and in the process of high-temperature firing they receive the necessary strength and protection from moisture.

— Red brick M-150 has quite high strength and a very reasonable price. However, there is a drawback - the porous structure of such a product easily absorbs moisture. Therefore, unprotected brick quickly becomes wet, and at low temperatures it freezes and can crack, causing the supporting structure to be weakened. Such products can withstand 55÷60 winter cycles. In order to preserve the material in high-quality condition after the construction of the house, it is necessary (in addition to waterproofing and insulation) to provide a protective finish for the basement walls - resistant cement plaster or facing tiles.

— Red brick M-250 is more reliable, since plastic types of clay are used for production, which acquire the necessary qualities after proper firing, and stability finished products to external aggressive influences - incomparably higher, and the base may not even require protective cladding. Typically, such bricks are laid “for jointing”. This material is recommended for the construction of building plinths in regions with high humidity.

The marking indicates the strength of the product - it is on this basis that the brick is selected for a particular application. Specifically, the numerical indicator indicates the permissible load that the brick can withstand without destruction (expressed in kilograms per square centimeter).

For example, a brick designated M-100 is intended for the construction of internal or external walls of small one-story houses, but it is not suitable for multi-story structures or a basement belt. For these purposes, products marked M-200 and M-300 are mainly used, since such products are designed for high loads and pronounced resistance to moisture.

In addition to the strength grade, the brick differs in the frost resistance grade. It is denoted by the letter symbol F and a numerical indicator indicating the guaranteed number of deep freezing and thawing cycles that the material will withstand without losing its characteristics. Naturally, for the base, the higher this figure, the better.

Ceramic bricks differ in their size and structural structure.

According to geometric dimensions, bricks are divided into ordinary single, one-and-a-half and double - the linear parameters are shown in the illustration. (In this case we are not talking about facing brick– there are a lot of different domestic and foreign standards, as well as generally non-standard options).

In addition, ceramic bricks are divided into solid and hollow (hollow).

— Solid brick has a continuous structure of the material, that is, an increased overall density, which entails an increase in its thermal conductivity. It is highly durable and is used to build load-bearing structures of a house, including the base, and for internal walls and partitions, but masonry from it will require more careful

— Hollow products are those that have in their structure a different number of blind or through holes of rectangular or round shape. This type of brick has lower thermal conductivity, so it is often used for the construction of external walls. In addition, the overall density of such material is noticeably lower, which makes it possible to reduce weight building structures, facilitate the tasks of transportation and masonry.

Hollow ceramic bricks can be suitable for constructing the basement of small one-story houses. But for more tall buildings It is better to use solid products, as they have a higher resistance to heavy loads.

By the way, it is always necessary to get acquainted with technical specifications purchased brick. Hollow products also come in different forms - the percentage of “hollowness” in them can range from 12÷13% to 40-50%; accordingly, the permissible load indicators also vary widely. That is, you should choose " golden mean", in order to obtain possible "preferences" from the reduced mass and thermal conductivity of the base, but at the same time - without losing the required compressive strength.

Calculation of the number of bricks

When planning the construction of a plinth, taking into account its required thickness, length and height, the amount of brick that will be required for these purposes is usually calculated. It is clear that it is advisable to carry out such calculations in advance in order to include the obtained data in the prepared estimate and find out the amount required for the purchase of building material.

The thickness and height of the plinth are usually multiples of the linear dimensions of the brick. When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account not only the above parameters, but also the thickness of the joints between the masonry bricks, which is usually 10 mm. That is, in order to calculate the number of bricks taking into account the seams, you should also add the thickness of the seam to the length, width and height of the product. As a result, for example, the following dimensions of a single row brick will be obtained: 260 × 130 × 75 mm (this also includes the thickness of the reinforcing mesh layer, if used).

A few words about the thickness of the base. In bricklaying, they usually operate with concepts related to the multiplicity of whole bricks or their halves: “half a brick”, “a brick”, “one and a half bricks”, etc. Knowing the linear parameters of the brick and adding the thickness of the joints to them, it is easy to obtain a “pure” value for the thickness of the masonry. However, this is well shown, with dimensions indicated, in the illustration below.

A- “half a brick.” (In practice, when building plinths, half-brick masonry is usually not used - it is too thin and unstable). Thickness (hereinafter – without external finishing) – 120 mm

b- “into a brick.” Thickness – 250 mm.

V- “one and a half bricks.” Thickness – 380 mm.

G- “two bricks.” Thickness – 510 mm.

d- “2.5 bricks.” Thickness – 640 mm.

Since there are other standard sizes of ordinary bricks (except for single - one-and-a-half or double - in height), the required quantity can be calculated only after the type of material purchased has been determined.

The table below shows the average calculation of the number of bricks per 1 square meter of masonry:

Thickness of masonry in “bricks”	Masonry thickness in mm	Brick type	Number of bricks per 1 m² of masonry, pieces
			- excluding seams	- including seams
"Half a brick"	120	Single	61	51
		One and a half	45	39
		Double	30	26
"In one brick"	250	Single	128	102
		One and a half	95	78
		Double	60	52
"One and a half bricks"	380	Single	189	153
		One and a half	140	117
		Double	90	78
"Two bricks"	510	Single	256	204
		One and a half	190	156
		Double	120	104
"Two and a half bricks"	640	Single	317	255
		One and a half	235	195
		Double	150	130

Most often, calculations are made individually for each specific building, taking into account all the parameters listed above. In this case, it is recommended that after counting the bricks, add a certain margin to the result, from 5 to 15%, depending on the degree of skill of the builder and the quality of the purchased material. This measure is usually taken with any building material: there is never enough stock, but a shortage at the most unnecessary moment will slow down the work process.

Let’s make the task easier for the reader – below is a convenient online calculator that will quickly and accurately carry out the necessary calculations.

Calculator for calculating the amount of bricks for building a basement

Enter the requested values ​​and click "CALCULATE THE AMOUNT OF BRICK"

Total length of base , meters

Number of external corners of the plinth

Number of internal corners of the plinth

Thickness of plinth brickwork

Plinth masonry height H, meters

What brick will be used?

Take into account the required stock?

A few explanations on the calculations:

• The total length of the plinth is indicated (including with internal lintels, if they are laid out with bricks). The length of the plinth along the perimeter of the building is taken according to EXTERNAL side.
• The number of external and internal corners of the plinth is required to make the necessary adjustments in the calculation of the total volume of the brickwork. In the input field external corners areas of abutment or intersection of masonry walls are also added.
• The calculation is made based on the selected type of brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints of 10 mm.
• You are given the opportunity to independently select the required percentage of the “reserve” of material.

Mortar for laying the plinth

The most important role for the strength of the basement walls is played by the preparation of the masonry mortar, since the reliability of fastening the bricks together in the masonry depends on it. Craftsmen recommend using Portland cement grades 300, 400 or 500, fine-grained sand and lime to make the mortar. Sometimes a small amount of clay is added to its composition. The masonry mortar must be plastic and homogeneous, and in order to achieve such properties, the sand used to make the working composition must be sifted through a fine-mesh construction sieve.

The solution is mixed using a construction mixer or a special attachment mounted on an electric drill.

An important point in the preparation of masonry mortar is the soil moisture at the construction site. And when determining the brand of mortar, they usually follow the rule that in high-quality masonry all its components should have approximately the same brand strength. However, practice has proven that when favorable conditions operation of the building for brick plinth Sometimes masonry mortar M-75 or M-100 is sufficient.

Table of proportions of cement-sand mortar (cement: sand), suitable for laying foundations and plinths on wet soils:

Cement brand	Solution grade (kgf/cm²)
	M50	M75	M100	M150	M200
PC-300	1:5	1:4	1:3	1:4	-
PC-400	1:6	1:5,5	1:4,5	1:3	1:2,5
PC-500	1:7	1:6	1:5,5	1:2,5	1:3

Table of proportions of cement-lime mortar (cement: lime: sand), suitable for the construction of foundations and plinths on low-moisture soil:

Cement brand	Solution grade (kgf/cm²)
	M50	M75	M100	M150	M200
PC-300	1:0,6:6	1:0,3:4	1:0,2:3,5	1:0,1:2,5	-
PC-400	1:0,9:8	1:5,5:5	1:4:4,5	1:0,2:3	1:0,1:2,5
PC-500	-	1:0,8:7	1:0,5:5,5	1:0,3:4	1:0,2:3

Features of arranging a brick plinth

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of their planning and execution:

• If brick is chosen as a building material for the base belt, then the first step is to determine the thickness of this part of the structure. This parameter will directly depend on the material from which the walls will be built and the overall dimensions of the building. For example, for wooden walls the thickness of the brick plinth must be at least 250÷300 mm, that is, one or one and a half bricks, and for a brick building - 500 millimeters or more, that is, two bricks or more.

• The brickwork of the base must be done on a layer of waterproofing laid on the surface of the strip foundation - it will protect the brick from capillary penetration of soil moisture. High-quality roofing felt is most often used as a waterproofing material, but sometimes it is replaced with bitumen-based coating compounds, which are applied in a layer 1.5-2 mm thick. But rolled material in two layers will be much more reliable (and simpler).
• The brick is laid flat, that is, on the bed, so that each subsequent upper row of masonry overlaps the seams of the lower row. The laying is done using a cord stretched along the wall of the plinth. In addition, control over the evenness of each row must be done using a building level.
• Whatever material the walls of the building are subsequently erected from, the brick plinth may differ from them in thickness. Several options are possible:

A– The base (pos. 1) can be wider than the building wall (pos. 2), and protrude beyond its limits as a step.

b– The wall and plinth are of equal thickness.

V– “Sinking” base, the thickness of which is less than the thickness of the wall.

Depending on the chosen option, the design of the metal ebb (item 3), which is installed between the base and the wall, and serves to protect the base from direct contact with water flowing from above, will depend.

Laying a brick plinth

After the obligatory flooring and fastening of the strip foundation to the surface, you can proceed to marking the basement masonry.

Prices for ceramic bricks

ceramic brick

The marking process necessarily includes an additional check of the foundation diagonals - they are measured using a tape measure and must have the same length, otherwise the structure being built may turn out to be skewed. If it turns out that the diagonals do not match in size, then you will have to straighten them with the help of laying the base, and it should be noted that this will not be so easy to do.

To do this, you will have to mark the masonry of the base belt on the horizontal surface of the foundation, measuring the location of its diagonals, starting from the outer corners of the base, located on one side of it. The found points must be marked using ordinary chalk, and then connected with lines. As a ruler, you can use a straight line or a coated marking cord.

Many craftsmen begin laying the plinth precisely from its corners, thus simplifying the further process of creating perfectly smooth walls.

Having chosen this masonry option, the first row begins with the formation of one of the corners, from which the first row is completely extended only to the adjacent corner, where a 90-degree turn is also marked with high accuracy. Next, the remaining angles are outlined in a similar way (with precise measurements of the diagonals between them). Well, then the entire walls located between these corners will rise sequentially.

To prevent the masonry from tilting forward or to the side, metal vertical corners are installed and firmly fixed in a perfectly plumb line along the laid out corners, starting from the first row, which sets the horizontal direction. These auxiliary devices are usually given the height of the future base, and the levels of each row are marked on them, taking into account the seam between them.

These guidelines will greatly simplify the masonry process, especially for those craftsmen who do not have much experience in this craft. According to the markings, a cord is pulled to opposite corners, with a guideline to which the bricks will be laid. After the laid out row is ready, the cord rises to the next mark, showing the height of the next row - and so on until the very top of the plinth wall. Such devices, by the way, will help control the thickness of the seams between the rows. But be that as it may, the use of such “means of small-scale mechanization” in no way relieves the master of the obligation to control each row of masonry at a building level.

After one wall of the plinth is ready, the vertical corner from one of the finished corners of the building is removed and rearranged to the one that is diagonally from it, and the masonry process continues. And so on until all the walls are laid out.

A few words need to be said about how the brick is laid, depending on the thickness of the wall and how it is tied at the corners of the building.

When laying out the first row, bricks can be laid along the foundation line or across, that is, with a spoon or a poke outward. The second option is chosen if the wall has a thickness of one or one and a half bricks. (The names of the sides of the brick are shown in the illustration above in the text).

The brick is laid along the foundation, that is, with a spoon forward, if the base wall has a thickness of one and a half to two bricks. Moreover, only the front part of the row can be laid out this way, and behind it the brick can be placed across the foundation. In addition, some home owners prefer, in addition to external, internal insulation, which can be carried out using polyurethane foam or expanded clay. When performing this type of masonry, a space is left inside the row, which is filled with insulation. In this option, in the front part of the row, the brick is laid with a spoon outward, then the insulation comes, and behind it the brick can be laid along or across the foundation.

Another masonry option is alternating spoon and butt rows, which makes the wall more durable.

For the construction of the plinth, cement mortar M-75 or M-100 is most often used, since it is most suitable for this part of the structure. When laying the first row, the solution is applied to the waterproofing material, and then to the row below, in a layer no more than 20 mm thick.

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay

If the base is being erected under a massive structure, then it is strongly recommended to strengthen it with reinforcing metal mesh made of VR-1 wire with a diameter of 3÷4 mm, with a cell size of 50×50 mm.

If the decision is made to reinforce the plinth belt, then you need to know that the mesh is laid before applying the solution, that is, the concrete mixture is applied on top of it. To prevent the mesh from shifting during work, it is recommended to fix it in several places using wire, which is inserted into the mortar of the joints between the bricks of the previous row. Some craftsmen simply temporarily press down the mesh by placing a few bricks on top.

There is no point in laying a grid between all the rows. Practice shows that the proper strength of the structure will be fully achieved if the “density” of laying the reinforcing mesh is one per 3–4 rows.

When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to following points, on which the duration of operation of the plinth belt will depend:

• The seams of the masonry rows must be well fitted. There should be no empty spaces between the bricks - all gaps are filled with mortar. In addition, the seams must have the same thickness, otherwise the masonry will be sloppy.
• When designing a base, it should include ventilation holes(vents), which should be located at a height of 150 mm from the blind area, in increments of 3000 mm, and have a size of 150 × 150 or 200 × 200 mm. In the absence of ventilation, the walls of the closed basement space will begin to become damp from the inside, which will lead over time to the development of mold or mildew, and to the appearance unpleasant odor inside the house. It is recommended to close the ventilation windows with decorative grilles, which will protect the basement rooms from unwanted “guests” - birds, rodents, and other small animals.

Bricklaying is a whole science!

In addition to perfectly level walls, a very complex operation in brickwork is traditionally the creation of corner nodes. Their dressing can be done in different ways. All the nuances of the process are in a special publication on our portal.

Waterproofing a brick plinth

Waterproofing the base is traditionally the most important task, since both the durability of the base itself and the safety of the building walls from ground moisture depend on it.

Waterproofing should be carried out in two versions - vertical and horizontal moisture protection.

Vertical waterproofing

This process involves applying moisture-proofing compounds or roll materials to both the foundation strip and side surfaces the base, and sometimes the lower part of the wall of the house: this way you can protect the joints between these parts of the building from moisture. There are several ways to vertically protect the base:

• Coloring – this method is quite simple, and consists of coating surfaces with special varnishes or paints. The positive aspects of painting include the ease of work and a thin layer of applied material, which provides high-quality protection of surfaces from moisture. Disadvantages this method are the short service life of the protective coating and, accordingly, the need for its periodic renewal.

• It is produced with thick bitumen compositions, solutions based on liquid glass or special cement-containing mixtures, which are applied in a layer of a certain thickness and, after hardening, form a kind of moisture-resistant membrane or impenetrable “crust” on the surface.

Bitumen solutions have a certain elasticity and perfectly protect the surface. However, this layer is not resistant to mechanical stress, so it is recommended to cover it decorative cladding. In addition, such a base with a black coating does not look aesthetically pleasing, so in any case it will require additional finishing.

Liquid glass is a strong and durable material that is resistant to external influences, but its disadvantage is the lack of elasticity, which can lead to damage to the layer when the walls of the building shrink. In many ways, this also applies to cement-based coating compositions - they also clearly lack elasticity.

• Impregnating solutions , consisting of liquid polymers and synthetic resins, are designed to penetrate the structure of the material, in this case, bricks and the cement mortar that binds them. Moreover, such chemical components not only form a protective film on the surface of the wall, but also fill the pores inside the materials, crystallize and create moisture a reliable barrier. Such compositions are capable of penetrating into the depth of the wall structure by 200÷250 mm, depending on the number of layers applied.

This approach is also convenient because carefully executed masonry after such waterproofing can be left without subsequent finishing - impregnation does not significantly affect the appearance of the base.

• Pasting the base with roll waterproofing . This method can be called the most popular, as it has advantages over the options described above.

There are a lot of rolled waterproofing materials of domestic and foreign production on sale, made on a bitumen or, even better, a polymer-bitumen base. Their laying on the walls of the foundation strip and brick base belt is done by gluing them onto mastics (some brands also have a self-adhesive layer) or by fusing them with a gas torch.

The advantage of adhesive waterproofing is its highest reliability - high-quality modern rolled materials, fixed in compliance with all technology requirements and protected from mechanical damage, are famous for their enviable durability.

Horizontal waterproofing

After the construction of the brick plinth, before the walls are laid, mandatory horizontal waterproofing is a concern. Its main task is to prevent capillary “suction” of moisture from the base to the walls. And during heavy rainfall or periods of snow melting, there can be a lot of unnecessary moisture in the base area.

If roll waterproofing is selected, then its strips are laid in two layers. Often, bitumen mortars are also used to secure them, since it will be easier to further lay the wall using the fixed sheets.

Liquid waterproofing is applied to horizontal and vertical surfaces using a brush or roller, but most often both tools are used. The waterproofing layer must be continuous and completely sealed, and this cannot be achieved by applying the solution only with a roller, especially if the plinth structure contains internal corners. For work, a soft brush with a width of about 150 mm is used.

It is not difficult to calculate the amount of waterproofing material - just calculate the area of ​​the surfaces on which it will be applied and determine the number of protective layers. The packaging of any waterproofing material must contain information about the area for which its packaged quantity is designed - this should also be taken into account when making calculations.

See how foundation waterproofing is done correctly!

This task is quite large-scale and quite costly, but there is no escape from it. Why you need it and how it is carried out – read in a special publication on our portal.

Base insulation

According to research results, up to 30% of the house’s heat evaporates through an uninsulated base when its wall freezes. This inevitably leads to completely ineffective energy costs, an uncomfortable environment in living quarters, and in the future, to the appearance of dampness and the appearance of mold colonies with all the accompanying “pleasures.”

To insulate the base, extruded polystyrene foam is most often used, which is glued to the walls using construction adhesive on cement based, specially designed for thermal insulation operations, and then additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners with wide “fungi” caps.

Some owners, trying to save money, use regular polystyrene foam instead of high-quality extruded polystyrene foam, and this is wrong. Polystyrene foam has a much more pliable soft structure, so mice can easily gnaw through it, making passages and holes in it. In addition, under constant external influence of moisture and temperature changes, the foam gradually loses its shape and begins to crumble into individual granules.

Extruded polystyrene foam (such as Penoplex) is much denser and stiffer, and therefore not as comfortable for. And some modern models with carbon inclusions - they become insurmountable obstacles for mice and rats.

The material has a perfectly flat surface, so when correct installation They can even even out small unevenness in brickwork.

The insulating material is fixed on top of the waterproofing layer, but if for some reason the decision is made to abandon the latter, then the surface of the base requires preliminary preparation.

Preparatory activities include the following processes:

• Cleaning a brick wall from protruding fragments that may form due to the remaining and hardened masonry mortar on it.
• Additionally, it is recommended to walk over the surface with a wire brush.
• After this, the walls are covered, instead of which it is best to use impregnating waterproofing.
• After the applied layer has dried, you can proceed to installing the insulating material. To do this, the adhesive mass is mixed and “fungi” fasteners, a hammer and an electric drill are prepared.

Penoplex prices

penoplex

Insulation work is simple and takes place in the following order:

• The finished surface must be marked, calculating the required amount. If necessary, individual sheets can be adjusted to size and cut. It should be noted here that if you have to cut the panels into three or four parts, then it is best to mount such elements closer to the middle of the basement wall, and secure solid insulation boards in the corners.
• In order for the bottom row of insulation to be installed exactly horizontally, it is recommended to attach a supporting guide at the bottom of the wall, at the junction with the blind area metallic profile. This element will help not only to correctly align the sheets and hold them in the desired position, but will also make it easier to secure them.

• Next, an adhesive mass is applied to the edges of the slabs, along their perimeter, and also pointwise in the central part of the surface. Moreover, here you need to take into account that after pressing the slab to the base, the glue must cover at least 40% of its surface, but at the same time, not protrude along the edges.
• The next step is to secure the insulation boards to the wall with plastic mushrooms. The caps of the fastening elements must be recessed into the insulation, that is, they must be in the same plane with the surface of the slab. Important - such mechanical fixation is carried out only for areas that are located above the ground level line. If some part of the base, after filling with soil, is below ground level, then the insulation is attached exclusively with glue - the waterproofing cannot be damaged by drilling holes.
• After completing the installation of the insulation, it must be protected from exposure to ultraviolet rays. For this purpose, plastering technology with simultaneous reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is often used. The same base plaster is usually used. adhesive composition. First, a layer of 2-3 mm is applied, into which the mesh is embedded. And then, after the initial setting, a second layer is applied so that the total thickness reaches 4÷5 mm.

The corners of the insulated base must also be reinforced using special aluminum or polymer corners with vertical stripes serpyanka nets, which are glued to the wall also with an adhesive solution.

• When the base adhesive plaster layer has dried, it can be applied on top decorative plaster, facade paint, or cover the base with one of the paints specially designed for this purpose.

If the design of the plinth includes in-wall insulation, then for this purpose, as mentioned above, expanded clay or polyurethane foam is used, which fills the voids of the wall during its construction.

How to determine the required thickness of insulation for a brick plinth?

Like any other house structure, the basement requires the “correct” approach to insulation. This means that the thickness of the thermal insulation must provide such resistance to heat transfer that it complies with the standard indicators established by SNiP. In principle, this is what the calculation is based on.

Below you will find a convenient calculator that allows you to perform calculations very quickly and accurately. For greater clarity, several explanations on using the program are provided.

Many buildings require a reliable foundation, so the owner of the house may need to build a foundation for a bathhouse; A brick bathhouse is a fairly massive structure, which means that the base must withstand the applied load.

Most often, a strip foundation is used for a bathhouse.

First you need to choose a place for construction and determine the type of soil. To do this, dig a pit 1.8 m deep and check the presence of groundwater. Analyze the type of soil - this will help you choose the right foundation for a bathhouse. Peat bogs, swampy and sandy soils. A good option in such cases is a monolithic or pile-screw foundation. You can also build a strip base with a sand cushion; it is better to replace the blocks in this design with monolithic concrete. Medium density soils are considered to be clay, loam, coarse sand, and fine gravel. In this case, you can use strip, block and pile foundations. Any type of foundation is suitable for rocky and quartz soils.

How to build a columnar foundation?

This type of foundation is rarely used when building brick baths with your own hands, however, for small buildings it is ideal due to the cost-effectiveness and speed of construction. Columnar supports are dug in at intervals of 2 m; it is mandatory to locate the supports in the corner parts of the future building and at the junctions of the walls. The concrete pillar should have dimensions of 60x60 cm. Pillars can be built under a brick bathhouse bigger size. The foundation for a bathhouse should be laid 25 cm below the frost line. The heaving forces that arise when the soil freezes can push out the supports, leading to deformation of the foundation and the building.

Concrete, stone and brick are not resistant to tension, so columnar base should be built strictly vertically - this will help avoid the effects of tensile forces. The foundation built on asbestos-cement pipes is considered the most durable. It is built easily and quickly, using hand drill Wells of the required depth with a diameter of 20-25 cm are made. Pipes are immersed in the resulting holes, sprinkled with soil and filled with concrete. Then the pipe is lifted and it rests on a bed of leaked concrete. After this, the support is completely filled with solution, leaving a distance of 10 cm to the top. The concrete is compacted and reinforced with reinforcing rods. After installing the connecting anchors, the remaining distance is filled with concrete.

A type of pile foundation is a screw foundation. This foundation is perfect for marshy soils. Before starting construction, it is recommended to make markings; the distance between the piles should be 2 m. The dimensions of the piles are selected depending on the weight of the future bathhouse. The pile has the appearance of a pipe, sealed on one side and with a pointed end and helical blades on the other. When constructing small buildings, supports 3 m long and 15 cm in diameter are used.

When building a foundation for a brick bathhouse, piles with a diameter of 13 cm are usually used. To build such a foundation, use special equipment not necessary. Piles can be screwed into the soil by hand. After deepening the supports, their ends are cut to the desired level. For greater reliability, the structure is reinforced with concrete mortar, after which the head can be mounted.

How to build a strip and monolithic base?

This type of foundation is most often used in the construction of brick and stone baths. Despite the simple design, such foundations for baths require a lot of labor. The installation depth is determined based on the freezing depth; the base is laid 20 cm lower. For construction you will need the following materials and tools:

• sand;
• crushed stone;
• shovel;
• concrete solution;
• wooden formwork;
• roofing felt;
• bitumen;
• reinforcing bars.

Before construction, the site must be leveled, after which they dig a trench 75 cm deep. The foundation for a bath should be 50 cm wider than the thickness of the walls. A sand cushion 15 cm thick is formed at the bottom of the trench. After this, the same layer of crushed stone is poured in and the cushion is compacted. Now you can pour the concrete solution, which is reinforced with large stones. Then formwork is built 20 cm high and filled with concrete ground part foundation. You can form this part using brickwork with your own hands.

The top of the foundation is leveled using concrete screed, the base is insulated with 2 layers of roofing material coated bitumen mastic. A base of stone, brick or foam blocks is built on top of the waterproofing. It is recommended to prime or plaster the surface of the blocks. This is due to the porous structure of the material, which absorbs moisture. Ventilation holes are made in the base. A blind area is built near the walls of the bathhouse, which helps protect the base from the effects of rain and melt water.

The most reliable and at the same time expensive option is a monolithic base. It is used in the construction of baths of any size. A solid reinforced concrete structure can have either a ribbed or flat base. A foundation for a bathhouse with a ribbed base is considered more durable; trenches are formed in the ground for the ribs, into which concrete mortar is poured. A sand or gravel cushion is placed between the ribs, after which the foundation is poured. This option is well suited for weak soils due to continuous construction. After completion of construction work, the foundation is thermally insulated.

As a conclusion

If you decide to build your bathhouse from brick, you must remember that the type of foundation is selected depending on the stability of the soil.

For rocky soils, you can choose any type of foundation; when constructing buildings on weak soils it is necessary to build a monolithic foundation. During construction, the mass of the future structure should also be taken into account.

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Types of base

According to structural types there are several types of base:

• made flush with the wall;
• protruding beyond the wall by several centimeters;
• with an overhanging wall on top.

The choice of type depends on the further decoration of the walls. However, the latter type of structure best copes with protecting the junction of the wall and the base from precipitation.

How to make a plinth correctly

If the base part of the foundation is constructed of concrete or reinforced concrete, the best and most effective solution would be to pour it in one go. The formation of any seams in the body of the foundation (and the plinth, as part of it) is fraught with a decrease in load-bearing capacity, the formation of pores and cracks, the penetration of moisture and cold through these voids, and the destruction of concrete during freezing and thawing. That is why the base should have neither vertical nor horizontal seams. This is especially true for reinforced concrete, where the foundation contains a reinforcement cage. Violation of the integrity of the protective layer of concrete, designed to protect the metal from corrosion, leads to a decrease in the load-bearing capacity of the structure.

The best option for a bath would be brick plinth. And not every brick will do. It is best to use red solid burnt brick. It repels moisture well and also serves as excellent waterproofing. In addition, it has the remarkable property of absorbing heat and releasing it for a long time. This property prevents the first crown of the log house from rotting!

During the construction of the base, ventilation openings should be provided. Two holes measuring 150x150 mm on opposite sides of the foundation for a bathhouse will be quite enough. You may also need holes for water supply and sewerage in the above-ground part of the foundation - these also need to be provided in advance.

Waterproofing

Another important point of technological requirements for the plinth is horizontal and/or vertical waterproofing. It protects the building from the penetration of ground moisture into the wall structures and premises.

For horizontal waterproofing, rolled roofing felt is usually used, laying it on top of the plinth under the wall. In this case, the surface must be leveled using a cement-sand mortar screed so that the differences in height do not exceed 5 mm. Then roofing felt is glued onto the hot bitumen.

For vertical waterproofing it is used liquid rubber. It is applied by spray or manually - with a spatula, roller, brush, brush.

Both vertical and horizontal insulation are performed in two layers.

Insulation

To prevent heat leakage from the room, it is necessary to protect the basement structure along with the foundation with some kind of insulation. The choice and depth of insulation depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region. The wall is insulated from the outside using rigid polystyrene foam or mineral wool followed by layers of waterproofing and fiberglass mesh reinforcement.

Alternative ways to build a plinth

Sometimes craftsmen use non-standard designs for the installation of a bathhouse plinth, for example, from sand-lime brick, ordinary ordinary brick, wall stones, slate, etc. It is worth noting that any wall materials as plinths are undesirable, since they are not designed for direct contact with the ground . Still, it is better to build structures in a single mass with a base. If the foundation base is made in the form of piles, then it is preferable to make the above-ground part in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt.

The first and last row of the red brick plinth must be placed in a poke, and all the inner ones in a spoon. This will ensure a good bond and give the necessary rigidity. If there are more than 10 bricks nearby, then on the 5th row it is also necessary to “plug” the base.

If the foundation ends at a level equal to the ground level, additional brickwork can be made as a plinth for the construction of wooden walls of the bathhouse. It is better to use silicate type bricks, as they interact well with a humid environment. It is necessary to raise the level by 500-600 mm from the ground surface (but not less than 250 mm). The thickness of such a wall will be 400 mm for large sauna and 250 mm for a one-room small building.

Ventilation outlets must be made. To do this, vents are left approximately in the middle part of the masonry in height. It is advisable to make a reinforcing belt of reinforcement and concrete on top of the masonry. Waterproofing is laid under the brick and under the wall, since in this case we use three types of materials for the foundation, plinth and walls.

Plinth cladding

The external cladding will additionally protect the base and wall structures from moisture and temperature changes. The materials used for cladding are extremely durable - moisture-resistant and frost-resistant. These include decorative facing bricks, tiles, wall hangings plastic systems. The base, decorated with natural stone - limestone, sandstone, as well as artificial stones, looks very beautiful.

The basement of the foundation of a small bathhouse on a summer cottage can also be lined with various available materials, for example, fragments ceramic tiles or glass, laying them out in the form of a mosaic.

P.S. Here the base is ready, now we choose a log house for the bathhouse and EASY STEAM FOR YOU!

Have fun!

beribanyu.ru

Types of products

• Red brick is the most commonly used material; walls, partitions and even stoves can be made from this material. For the walls, an ordinary hollow one can be used, since the walls in the bathhouse are made of two layers with a mandatory gap between the walls, which is filled with thermal insulation. Red cladding can be used for façade cladding. For laying brick ovens, heat-resistant grades M75 or M150 are used.

• Fireclay brick - refers to fireproof materials, made on the basis of fireclay clay. In the bathhouse it is used for laying furnace fireboxes, for arranging screens in wooden bathhouses and bathhouses with metal stoves. Also used for fireplaces, stationary barbecues or grills. The most suitable brands are ShA and ShB. Most often, ShB-5 is used for laying stoves.

• Salt bricks for baths are a material that appeared relatively recently, they are salt blocks, the best are those made in Pakistan from salt mined in the Himalayan mountains. Salt blocks in the bathhouse are used exclusively for healing and improving the indoor microclimate.
  Their price is quite high, but the health benefits of their use more than cover all costs.

• Aerated concrete and foam concrete are the product of new technologies. They are blocks of a fairly large size; the material is porous, so it is light in weight. Even an amateur can build a bathhouse from aerated concrete with his own hands if he really wants to, all you need is good instructions plus material.
  The blocks themselves are good heat insulators, so such bath structures do not require additional insulation. The only weak point of aerated concrete is that it absorbs moisture, but with proper external and internal finishing this disadvantage is reduced to zero.

• Sand-lime brick is not suitable for arranging a bathhouse, as it absorbs moisture and can only be used externally for cladding.

Areas of use

Furnace laying

IN given time mass is produced various ovens for baths, but we will consider a classic heater stove made of brick.

It is rightfully considered the most durable and beneficial in terms of healing effects.

• The foundation for a bathhouse stove is laid similar to the strip foundation of a house. Somewhat below the freezing point of the soil. A blind area is made of sand and gravel, formwork is mounted on it, a reinforcing frame is laid and concrete is poured. Such a foundation will harden for at least 1 month.

Important: the foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the main foundation, the distance to the nearest wall is made at least 50 mm and covered with sand.
Plus, the size of the foundation itself should be 50 mm larger than the furnace around the perimeter.

• Only solid, monolithic bricks are used for laying the stove. The best option is to lay out the entire stove from fireclay bricks, but the price is higher, so it is allowed to use M75 red brick for laying the base and chimney, and the firebox itself is made from fireproof fireclay ShB-5. Before laying, the brick is soaked in water.
• Waterproofing made of roofing felt in 2–3 layers is initially laid on the foundation. Since the foundation is initially laid slightly below the floor level, a base of 2 layers of brick is laid on it using cement mortar. A metal sheet and another continuous row rest on the base.
• Starting from rows 2 to 4 inclusive, there is a blower zone. In the 2nd row we begin to mount the door; before installation, a metal wire is attached to it, which is subsequently sunk into the solution in rows. The door is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos rope, which provides a damping gap.

Important: from metal sheet and higher, the furnace is laid on fatty clay or modern special refractory mortars. The thickness of the seam is made about 3 mm, it is convenient to control it; initially, 2 wires with a cross-section of 3 mm are placed on the brick; after laying, the wire is pulled out.

• Next, the firebox itself is laid out; exclusively fireproof fireclay material is used here. Before installing the 5th row, cast iron grates are installed. The height of the firebox is 5 rows, the width is 1.5 bricks, and the length is 3 bricks.
• After the firebox, a chimney is installed up to the ceiling with a gradual narrowing, in top point its cross-section will be 1 brick. IN interfloor covering A metal box of 40x40 cm is made around the chimney and filled with expanded clay, otherwise the materials bordering the pipe can quickly deteriorate due to temperature or even catch fire.

Screen in the bath

Quite often, metal stoves are used in the bathhouse. Modern metal stoves heat up the steam room quite quickly, but technologically many models require a brick screen.

The brick screen in the bathhouse acts as a case for the stove; it has channels for hot air convection and promotes smooth heating.

But when arranging the screen, you should take into account some of the design requirements.

• The laying should be done vertically at a distance of 40 - 60 mm from the main metal casing of the furnace; this gap ensures the free movement of hot air.
• Cast iron doors are installed in the lower rows of the screen; with their help, the air supply during convection is regulated.
• The thickness of the screen is, as a rule, half a brick; it is not recommended to make it thinner, since the screen can overheat, but thicker is possible.
• Since a brick chimney is not used for metal stoves due to its large mass, the screen can act as a support for the chimney. In this case, its heat transfer increases many times over.
• It is recommended to use refractory fireclay bricks, but this recommendation is not mandatory, the fact is that the heating temperature of the screen is not so high and, in our opinion, any solid material can be used, and the screen can be laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
• When firing a furnace from an adjacent room, tunnels are built in the screen panel for access to the firebox and ash pit.
• Screen serving as brick partition V wooden bath laid out completely to the ceiling. In this case, the distance from the screen to the wooden walls should be at least 40 cm.

Salt screens

Nowadays, everyone knows the therapeutic effect of salt chambers, lamps, and therapy in salt mines. By installing a small salt screen in your bathhouse, you will greatly increase the healing effect of visiting such a bathhouse.

To arrange the screen, special salt bricks for the bath are used. This is a natural material that is cut from a single monolith of salt and has a strictly a certain form. Salt blocks can withstand temperatures up to 500˚C, so they can be used to create protective screens around a metal heater.

It is possible to completely or partially lay out the partition between the steam room and the relaxation room from salt blocks. The blocks are laid using special fasteners or an adhesive solution based on caustic magnesite and magnesium chloride 3:5, initially salt is dissolved in the water, and then magnesite is added. It can be laid on liquid glass, but it is not durable.

Walling

A brick bathhouse is a structure that will last forever. But if you decide to build directly from brick and do not have practical installation experience, we advise you to turn to professionals, since the walls are laid in 2 layers, providing an air chamber between the walls, which can be filled with thermal insulation. For an amateur, this installation is quite problematic.

The most affordable material for building walls with your own hands is aerated concrete or foam concrete. The blocks are large and light and are fastened together using special glue. The blocks are easily cut with a hacksaw. In addition, their price is lower than brick or wood.

Important: aerated concrete and foam concrete absorb moisture, so during construction, the walls must be properly finished, and when finishing, the rule should be observed that the thickness of the interior decoration should be 2 times greater than the exterior.

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General rules for choosing material

1. For walls, ordinary red brick, hollow brick, silicate brick is suitable (facing brick is not suitable).
2. For the foundation - regular red, as well as lots with defects appearance, for example, iron ore (hollow and facing are not suitable).
3. For the stove - red and fireproof (silicate is not suitable due to low fire resistance).

Bathhouse bricks are purchased in bulk and delivered in one batch by truck. During storage, it must be protected from water. General rules here are approximately the same as for lumber from wood.

The delivered brick is stacked on a wooden pallet and covered with film. It is also convenient to place the stacks under a canopy. Bricklaying, especially if done by one person, takes several weeks. All this time, the brick must be stored in a dry place.

Advantages and disadvantages

A brick bathhouse is a capital, long-term structure. The cost of its construction will be more expensive than a classic wooden bathhouse, but it will last many times longer.

One of the disadvantages of a brick bathhouse is the need for careful insulation. Safe ones are not always used for this purpose. environmentally friendly materials. The main advantage of a brick structure is fire resistance and durability.

Basement and foundation

The foundation for a brick bathhouse is laid out with your own hands in the form of a strip structure. A brick bathhouse is heavy, so a pile or columnar foundation is rarely used for it, but on dense rocky soils it is quite acceptable. Strip foundation remains the most reliable and common option.

The foundation for a brick bathhouse is built from well-fired dense varieties.

The brick may have external defects, stains, or uneven color.

The main thing is good strength and water resistance. Porous and hollow varieties should not be considered immediately.

Ceramics have the ability to absorb water. If you weigh a brick and put it in a bucket of water for a day, then the next day it will be much heavier. Even 1 brick can absorb several tens of grams of water.

The penetration of water into ceramics itself does not cause any harm to it. An example is numerous archaeological finds of ceramics. It’s another matter if the process of soaking with water is accompanied by freezing cycles.

This is why brick foundations do not last forever, but are still very durable. Some brick manufacturers indicate the number of freezing cycles without a significant reduction in strength. Their number is at least 100, which provides the brick foundation and plinth with almost the same number of years of service. This is more than enough for a bath.

Laying the plinth

The base is made somewhat thicker than the wall, but it is not necessary to adhere to this rule. The increase in thickness is done by half a brick. Greater value inappropriate. Also, the base should not be made thicker than the foundation in the bathhouse. This will negatively affect the stability of the entire structure.

The foundation for a brick bathhouse is laid out in the same way as the walls. sand cushion protects the foundation from soil antinodes. The bottom reinforced layer protects from failures. It is very beneficial to combine brick with concrete in the foundation. A concrete belt, which must be reinforced with long longitudinal reinforcement, will significantly add strength.

General rules for brick construction

1. The minimum wall thickness for a bathhouse is one brick.
2. Each row is placed strictly level, observing the thickness of the seams;
3. For the wall, bricks of the same batch and the same color are used (the exception is a predetermined decorative arrangement of multi-colored bricks).
4. On a brick building, seismic belts made of reinforcement are required;
5. Masonry mortar - not lower than M250-M350.

The plinth is placed on a concrete foundation slab. Rubble, concrete and brick foundations are suitable for a brick base. The option made of any material can be either strip or columnar. In any case, you need to build a foundation taking into account the weight of the bathhouse and the characteristics of the soil.

Laying a columnar foundation

It is very convenient to lay out columns from brick. Such structures can often be seen as posts for gates and fences. In a columnar foundation they are laid out according to the same principle.

The cross-section of the pillars is 1.5-2 bricks. Columns can also be made into one brick, but their placement needs to be more frequent.

Any columnar foundation requires a powerful reinforced concrete grillage. Without it, it will be a very fragile structure.

A columnar foundation for a brick bath is suitable only for dense, dry soils. If it is not used for houses in your region, consult with construction specialists about the feasibility of its construction.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

Ceramics and brick have the undesirable property of absorbing water well. This disadvantage is eliminated by careful hydro and vapor barrier. Brick in the walls, plinth and foundation must be protected from moisture penetration from any sources:

1. moisture seepage from the soil: roofing felt layers are laid on the foundation;
2. penetration of water from the bathhouse: the floor screed in the washing room is insulated;
3. indirect accumulation of moisture from condensate due to a large temperature difference (vapor barrier membranes are installed here).

How to cover a brick in a bathhouse, and why it is needed

It is better not to cover the outside of the brick with anything at all. This will provide a beautiful appearance. Inside the bathhouse the situation is exactly the opposite. Bare brick is almost never used there. Insulation is discussed in detail in other articles on our website.

The inside of the brick is coated for waterproofing. It makes the most sense to use vapor barrier membranes specially designed for this purpose.

In some cases, the brick in the bathhouse is left in open form. If brick is chosen for the walls High Quality, then it will look very decorative not only outside, but also inside.

At the same time, it is impossible to leave the brick walls inside the bathhouse unlined due to the requirements for thermal insulation. As a last resort, according to design requirements, you can leave such walls in the dressing room. Basically, if brick is visible anywhere in the bathhouse, it is either on the stove or on the partitions.

Both ordinary sauna stoves and complex heating stoves are made of brick. Heating panels can be half-wall in size. Brick is also used to protect the wall from heating by the stove. All these elements are usually not plastered. The inside of them can be coated with various interior varnishes, but this is not always advisable.

Coating of brick with varnish is carried out in order to protect the ceramic surface, which is not resistant to dirt. In the interior, especially if you touch the wall with your hands, the brick will become dirty very quickly. This situation can be corrected by applying a varnish coating.

Wooden cladding, installation of beacons

A brick bathhouse must be lined with wood from the inside. This layer performs an insulating and aesthetic function. The best way to finish a brick bath is to cover it with wooden boards, clapboard, block house or imitation timber.

If the cladding is thin, for example lining, then only moisture-resistant species are suitable, for example: aspen, linden and larch. Pine lining is not suitable for a steam room. Insulation is placed between the wooden layer and the brick.

Regardless of the type of lumber used for cladding, beacons are placed vertically. They play the role of a connecting node between the brick and wooden board sheathing. A lighthouse is a wooden block that is attached to a brick wall, and sheathing boards are nailed to its outer side.

The lighthouse is attached to the brick using dowels and angles. In combination with the dowel, you can use various specialized fasteners. It is convenient to purchase it as a set. Calculate based on the number of beacons. On average, they are located every 0.5 m of walls.

The cross-section of the lighthouse bar is usually chosen equal to the thickness of the insulating layer.

The outer edge should be no narrower than 3 cm. Then it will be convenient to attach the sheathing to it.

In addition to its direct function, the beacon is a guide for attaching boards. It must be installed strictly plumb. This guarantees a neat appearance of the cladding.

Corner in the steam room

A massive cladding is laid out of brick, occupying the entire corner of the paired compartment. It protects the wooden finish on the walls (and in a wooden bathhouse, the entire structure) from fire. Thus, a good protective and decorative element is obtained. It is conveniently located near the stove.

The brick corner is laid out in two layers, and in some cases in one. Two layers are preferable, as they allow for good overlap of the seams. For a completely brick bathhouse, enough bricks are purchased, so it is better to lay out the corner in two layers. The work is carried out before the steam room is sheathed. The thickness of the seams is minimal with good decorative jointing.

The process of wall cladding - what to pay attention to?

Brick baths are finished only on the inside. It is better not to decorate the outside of the brick with anything. He already looks very good and is very resistant to everyone climate impacts. The exception is baths built from low-grade bricks with external defects and baths made of white silicate brick. White color not always appropriate, but it can also be used correctly in design.

The interior decoration of a brick bathhouse has two main tasks: improving the appearance and insulation.

Brick, even if you used the warmest hollow-core option, is very thermally conductive.

In comparison with wood traditional for baths, it loses more than twice as much. The interior decoration of a brick bath is almost always made of wood. This is the best option.

There are no other options for washing and steam rooms. The rest room can be decorated with other materials besides wood. It is only necessary to ensure that all this finishing has an appropriate “bath” appearance.

Portal around the furnace

In modern baths, standard heater stoves made of metal have become widespread. They can be covered with bricks. This is done for reasons of safety and design, since brick is very beautiful in the interior.

The portal in the brick bathhouse is laid out from selected varieties. Without proper experience, it is better to entrust its laying to professionals. If the portal does not have a volumetric vault that requires specialized conical bricks for laying, then it is quite possible to lay it yourself.

The brick trim around the firebox in the bathhouse will serve as additional fire protection and a decorative element. In addition, lining a metal stove with brick helps retain heat longer.

The masonry of the portal around the furnace is carried out manually according to the classical scheme. To lay each row, pull the cord strictly according to the level. The masonry is carried out using cement mortar. Clay mortar is used only for laying bricks around the firebox and nowhere else. The use of cement mortar provides the masonry with strength and water resistance.

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Material for the base of the house

Now there are two opinions about the design of the plinth, when the question arises of what material to choose for the plinth of the house:

1. the basement part is made of concrete, as a continuation of the monolithic foundation
2. the base is made of brick

Laying a brick plinth was not even discussed in the past. The plinth must be brick, period. Just 10 years ago it was not fashionable to raise the foundation higher than 150mm above the ground.

If we compare concrete and brickwork, then in terms of thermal properties, without a doubt, the brick plinth wins. Because, for a residential building, a brick plinth with a masonry thickness of 510-640 mm is laid out. This thickness of a brick wall does not require additional insulation in snowy regions of Russia.

But recently, the technology of insulating concrete walls has come into fashion. And this plinth technology is now preferable when constructing a permanent residential building, because, simultaneously with the insulation of the plinth, horizontal insulation of the blind area is done, which provides an advantage as a protective measure for foundations from freezing.

If you are not going to insulate with outside at home, the basement part of the wall and the blind area of ​​the house, then there are no options, laying a brick basement is suitable for you:

• easier
• warmer
• cheaper
• does not require additional finishing

But this is a subjective opinion.

If it is easier for you to monolith the base, then, of course, choose this option. Because in both options, the bathhouse is a structure that does not require a high underground. The maximum height of the base for a bath is 300-400mm.

And if you choose a brick base for a bathhouse, all the same, its thickness will be no more than 250 mm (in brick), due to the fact that it is not necessary to make a wide foundation for a log house from 200-240 mm logs. And this thickness of brickwork is not much warmer than a concrete wall. And during seasonal use (in summer period) warm material for the base it is not of great importance at positive outside temperatures.

Do you need a brick base?

Do you need a brick plinth? This is a question that plagues every developer. You will find part of the answer in the previous section.

But the base has another function - protective. As you know, the foundation located in the ground absorbs moisture. Especially if the concrete was prepared manually, then its hygroscopicity leaves much to be desired. Therefore, it is always necessary to lay roofing material between the concrete and the brickwork of the base as a waterproofing layer, which will protect the brick from absorbing ground moisture.

So, it is necessary that the brickwork of the base protrudes 20-50mm above the foundation. This is done to protect the foundation and the penetration of precipitation (rain, snow) onto the waterproofing layer.

For example, the width of the foundation is 300m. This means that the brickwork of the base needs to be made 1.5 bricks wide (380 mm). This results in 40 mm of overhang on each side of the foundation.

If the width of the foundation is 400 m, then it is not at all economical to make a base 500 mm wide (2 bricks). You can make it 1.5 bricks (380 mm) and shift it 20 mm to the outside.

You can also make a sinking version of the base, when the brickwork is done in the middle of the foundation strip. It turns out that the foundation will protrude by 20mm. In this case, the ingress of rain moisture onto the waterproofing layer is inevitable. Accumulation of water and subsequent absorption by the brick is possible. This can be avoided by protecting the brickwork and foundation with eaves overhangs made of galvanized or painted steel.

A log house installed on a plinth will be protected from ground moisture by waterproofing layers in two places (1 - between the foundation and the plinth, 2 - between the plinth and the log house), which will increase the service life of the log house: as a rule, lower crowns In 90% of cases, log houses rot due to constant moisture from below.

Brick for the plinth

The brick for the plinth must be solid clay. Under no circumstances should you use hollow brick, even if it is of high grade M200. Because with a temperature difference in winter period Over time, during thawing and freezing, moisture will condense in the voids of the brick, which does not disappear anywhere, but is absorbed by the brick. Which will naturally lead to the gradual destruction of the brick.

In accordance with the provisions of SNIP 3.03.01-87 “Load-bearing and enclosing structures”:

Brand of brick for the plinth

The brand of brick for the plinth must be at least M200 for brick house several floors and not lower than M150 for other lighter wall structures of 1 floor. Why? Because the base is the most loaded structure after the foundation itself. The base will carry everything above it:

• walls
• overlap
• roof
• snow on the roof
• furniture and people in the house

In accordance with SNiP II-22-81 “Stone and reinforced masonry structures”:

• M – strength and resistance to bending, compression
• F – frost-resistant (resistance against sudden temperature changes)

Calculation of bricks for the plinth

The calculation of a brick per plinth for its purchase and delivery is as follows:

1. First, the volume of the brickwork is calculated. To do this, we multiply the perimeter of the foundation by the width of the masonry and its height. For example, the dimensions of the foundation are 4x3 m. with a foundation width of 300mm. The perimeter is 14 m. The masonry will be brick-width (250mm) and 4 rows high (70*4=280mm). We obtain the volume of the future masonry equal to: 14m*0.25m*0.28m=0.98 m3.
2. In 1 m3 of brickwork, the average consumption of bricks is 400 pcs. We multiply our masonry volume by 400 pieces, we get: 0.98 m * 400 pieces = 392 pieces.

There are 300-330 pieces in a pallet (depending on the manufacturer). This means you need to buy 2 pallets. With reserve. The brick will remain, but it is never superfluous during construction. You can, in the future, make a simple brick grill.

How to lay a brick plinth

1. Before laying brickwork on the surface of the foundation, it is necessary to install a horizontal waterproofing layer of roofing felt to prevent moisture from penetrating from below. regulatory documents in construction, it should be made of 2 layers of roofing material with sizing of each with mastic.
2. If the base structure is massive (in width and height), then a leveling screed must be made of a 20mm thick cement-sand mortar over the waterproofing layer, on which a masonry mesh with 50x50mm cells made of 4mm wire is laid. This reinforcing layer will give additional rigidity and strength to the base of the overlying brick plinth.
3. For a log bathhouse, the above condition is not so important, because the log house is much lighter than the brick walls of the house and the bathhouse does not require a high base.
4. The first row of brickwork must be bonded
5. It is necessary to carefully fill horizontal and vertical joints with mortar, because if moisture penetrates, the mortar in the joints will begin to collapse over time.
6. if the base is high, then you need to reinforce the masonry every 3 or 5 rows, or at least in the corners.
7. Horizontal waterproofing from roofing felt is again performed on top of the top row of brickwork of the plinth.

Since the brickwork of the plinth is that part of the walls that is especially susceptible to the influence of atmospheric influences (rain, snow, ground moisture) and works almost all the time in a humidity regime, then for permanent buildings it must be additionally protected. The best protection is cladding from natural stone. Other options are possible: ceramic tiles, artificial stone, plaster).

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Stages of construction of a strip foundation for a summer residence

Place of construction of the strip foundation: country cottage area in the garden society.

Foundation dimensions: 6x6 m. Including: locker room (rest room) - 3x6m, sink - 3x4m, steam room - 2x3m.

Features of the development site: the previous owners of the site began to build a strip foundation with three sides along the perimeter of the bathhouse, the size of one side is 6 m, two sides are 4 m each, the width of the foundation is 300 mm, the height is 300 mm. Another one important feature of this site - at the time of construction work there was no possibility of connecting to electrical networks.

Task: to complete the remaining strip foundation (perimeter and under internal partitions).

1. Preparing the construction site. The building site must be cleared of debris and any foreign objects, the plant layer of soil must be removed, and the site must be leveled.
2. Layout of the site according to the planned plan. In order to set out the axes, a geodetic instrument, a theodolite, was used. Wooden pegs were installed along the perimeter of the future strip foundation and a cord was pulled. In the absence of a theodolite, we recall the Pythagorean theorem that in a right triangle the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse, take a tape measure and a cord, and make a breakdown.
3. Creation of a trench. In order to build a strip foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, the depth of which can be individual, depending on the characteristics of the soil in the area. In our case, the site had previously been backfilled, so a layer was removed fertile soil to a dense layer of sand, and the depth of the trench was 250 mm. When constructing a strip foundation, a layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone are poured into the trench; each layer can reach a thickness of 100 mm. But, since we did not need to pour a layer of sand, only crushed stone was filled in.
4. Arrangement of formwork. For the installation of formwork, a 50x150 mm board and reinforcement with a length of 700 mm and a cross-section of 14 mm were used. The reinforcement is driven vertically into the ground every 2-3 meters along the perimeter of the dug trench, then boards are installed along the edges. We nail a picket fence (bar) measuring 25x40 mm and 400-450 mm long on top. The distance between the bars is 1-1.5 m. After installing the formwork, we carry out leveling with a geodetic device - a level on a picket fence, and place “beacons” in the corners, using nails for this.
5. Laying reinforcement. It is necessary to lay reinforcement with a cross-section of 12-14 mm in the trench, 2 pieces on each side. The length of the reinforcement is calculated as follows: there should be 0.04 m left on each side; if the length of the wall is, for example, 6 m, then the length of the reinforcement is 5.92 m. You need to cut the reinforcement with an angle grinder (grinder), therefore, in the absence of electricity, this needs to be taken care of in advance. Since we had a part of the strip foundation poured, along the edges of which reinforcement outlets were left, the reinforcement was overlapped with steel tying wire. We place broken bricks under the reinforcement, the quantity can be any, the main thing is that the reinforcement does not sag. It is possible, of course, to perform longitudinal and transverse reinforcement, but this is usually performed when constructing foundations for heavier structures. For a light one-story bathhouse made of timber, there is no need for this kind of reinforcement; it will simply be an extra waste of metal.
6. Preparation concrete mortar and its installation. The concrete mixture can be prepared mechanically using a concrete mixer, or manually, mixing the composition in an iron container suitable for these purposes. In our case it was used manual method, using a “solution jar” with a capacity of 0.13 cubic meters.

The composition of the concrete solution may vary. It depends on several factors: the brand of cement and the desired brand of concrete, the additives used and their characteristics, the requirements for the mobility of the solution, etc.

The commonly used ratio of crushed stone, sand and cement is 5:3:1, water-cement ratio (W/C) is 0.5. It must be taken into account that the composition of concrete is calculated for dry materials. The same sand in its normal state has a humidity of 5%, and if it gets wet by rain, then it is about 10%.

Composition of concrete mixture per 1 cubic meter. m.

• medium crushed stone (fraction 20-40 mm) - 1900 kg.
  clean sand (content 5%) - 1140 kg.
• Portland cement PC 500 - 380 kg.
• water (from a well or tap) ~ 172 l.

The required amount of concrete mixture can be easily calculated based on the size of the future strip foundation. In our case: height - 0.3 m, width - 0.3 m, length - 19 m (6+2+2+6+3). Therefore, we need V=0.3×0.3×19=1.71 cubic meters.

In our case, construction work was carried out when the air temperature at night dropped to minus 5°C, so the anti-frost plasticizing additive “Benotech PMP - 1”, which is sold in liquid form, was additionally used. At temperatures from 0 to −5°C, it is necessary to add 1% additive by weight of cement to the concrete mixture. The amount is calculated based on the mass of dry matter, of which one liter of additive contains approximately 453.4 g. At 380 kg. Portland cement requires 8.38 liters. additives.

You can use another additive that accelerates the hardening of the concrete mixture and has antifreeze properties.

If it is possible to connect to the electrical network, the concrete structure can be heated using heating formwork, which uses heating cables, heating elements, mesh heaters and other heating elements. In addition, the concrete mixture can be heated to a temperature of 40-60 °C before laying.

Technology for preparing concrete mixture for strip foundations

The required amount of sand is poured into the container, a depression is made in it and cement is poured in, everything is thoroughly mixed with a shovel. Crushed stone is added to this mixture and mixed well again. Then water is gradually added, preferably from a watering can, so as not to wash away sand particles with a strong stream.

In the garden plot there may not be containers on hand to accurately measure the required amount of material, so buckets are often used for these purposes.

Amount of material in one bucket (10 l):

• crushed stone - 15-17 kg
• sand - 14-17 kg
• cement - 13-15 kg

The amount of crushed stone depends on its fraction, the amount of sand depends on humidity, and the amount of cement is affected by the density of its compaction during backfilling.

Laying concrete mortar

• The finished solution is poured into the formwork, leveled, pierced with a probe or bayonet shovel (to remove excess air), and tapped from the outside of the formwork with a wooden hammer.
• If it is possible to connect to the electrical network, then an internal vibrator can be used to compact the concrete mixture.
• At negative temperatures The strip foundation is covered on top with a film and a layer of sawdust or any insulation.
• After three days, the formwork can be carefully removed.

7. Construction of the base. After making sure that the concrete strip foundation is sufficiently strong, you can proceed to next stage- the device of the base.

For this we will need the following materials

• roofing felt - 1 roll 15×1 m;
• pipe (metal or plastic, cross-section 32-57 mm), total length - 1500 mm;
• masonry mesh 500×1500 mm - 24 pieces;
• masonry mortar (cement-sand, 1:4);
• solid ceramic brick - 808 pcs.

Strip foundation - work order

1. A layer of roofing felt (or other waterproofing material) is laid on the concrete foundation. Roofing material can be easily cut with a knife into strips of the required width.
2. For brickwork, a single-row (chain) ligation method was used. A layer of masonry mortar is laid on top of the waterproofing material, then, across the longitudinal axis of the foundation, a brick is laid to form a bonded row of masonry. We lay a masonry mesh on top of the first row of bricks. The second row of masonry is a spoon row (along the axis).
3. The number of rows of masonry will depend on the desired height of the strip foundation for the bathhouse. In our case, 4 rows of masonry were completed (see information on methods of masonry).
4. The required amount of brick is calculated as follows: the standard size of one brick is 250 × 120 × 65 mm, the length of the base is 35 m, two rows of masonry with a butt side are 120 mm each, two rows are 250 mm each, seams are 10 mm. We make a simple calculation: 3500×2:13+3500×2:26=807.69. Therefore, we will need approximately 808 bricks.
5. In the third row of masonry (bonded) it is necessary to make ventilation ducts. To do this, we use scraps of metal or plastic pipe, which is mounted across the axis of the foundation in a horizontal position. The diameter of the pipe is not of fundamental importance; we used the one that was available. 5 vents were made for the entire foundation.
6. A row of masonry mesh is again laid on top of the third row of bricks, then the last row of bricks (spoon).
7. The final stage is the installation of a cement screed from a thick mortar 1:2-3. The recommended height of the cement screed is 20 mm.
8. Wait for the solution to dry completely.

That's all, our strip foundation has been successfully completed, and we can proceed to the next stage of building the bathhouse.

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Base for a brick bath