Currently, drywall has become one of the most common building materials. It is used both in private and industrial construction. In the process of finishing interior spaces The question often arises of how to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands.

The ease of processing plasterboard allows its use in different options interior It allows you to diversify the ceiling and walls in the house. Zoning a room is easy to do if you decide how to make a plasterboard wall.

Plasterboard wall construction

When used indoors, drywall has a number of advantages. The sheets are very easy to process - you can cut them into any shape. The sheets are secured using almost any standard method - glue, mastic, screws, etc. The material is quite light in weight. After installation, drywall creates the impression of solidity. Its surface is easy to decorate.

Usually it is interior and located indoors. The design of such a wall includes a frame; plasterboard sheathing in which a doorway or simply an opening for passage is made; cladding and decorative coating.

The simplest frame can be made of wooden beams required thickness. More wide application V Lately finds a frame made of a metal profile. Ceiling and partition profiles that have a U-shape are produced especially for plasterboard. Partition profiles are divided into guides and racks.

PN type guide profiles are available in four sizes - 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x50 mm. Standard length– 3 m. Rack profiles are produced by the PS brand and also have four sizes – 50x50, 65x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm. The width of the PS and PN profiles must match. Rack profiles are sold in lengths of 3, 3.5 and 4 m.

The wall sheathing can be made of one or more sheets of plasterboard. A single-layer septum is done extremely rarely. A two-layer wall means that filler can be laid between the sheathing sheets (sound insulation, thermal insulation, etc.). An opening is made in the wall cladding for passage. If necessary, a window opening is made in the plasterboard wall.

Cladding a plasterboard wall includes filling the surface and applying decorative coatings. In addition, the ends of the cladding in the openings are processed and decorated.

The material also has significant disadvantages that should be taken into account when working with it. First of all, this is low resistance to impact loads and bending. The edges of the sheet (especially the corners) are easily damaged when in contact with hard objects. The material requires careful transportation.

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Preparing to make a wall

The site floor, ceiling and walls should have final plastering. It is necessary to check the evenness of the surface. If there are defects, they must be eliminated (bulges removed, holes filled). The verticality of the walls is checked with a plumb line.

Marking the wall to be installed begins with the side walls of the room. The required distance is measured from the wall with the window and marked below on the wall. Through the mark perpendicular to the floor, a line is drawn along the side wall to the ceiling. Markings are applied similarly on the opposite side wall. The lines are connected by markings along the ceiling and floor. This line will be the inner boundary of the wall being installed.

Profiles are laid out on the floor in a horizontal position according to the dimensions of the future frame. The dimensions of the drywall are laid out and marked along the laid frame. The openings are marked.

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Installing a Wall Frame

Installation of a frame made of metal profiles begins with the installation of a guide profile on the ceiling. The profile is fastened along the marked line using dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the profile every 40-50 cm and holes in the ceiling are marked through them. Using a puncher, holes are punched in the ceiling according to the marks. Dowels are inserted. The guide profile is secured with screws. The surface of the profile adjacent to the ceiling is glued sealing tape before fastening. The guide profile is fixed to the floor in the same way, but taking into account the doorway. The horizontal installation of the guide profiles is checked with a level.

After fixing the guides, the rack profiles are installed according to the markings on the side walls. Their fastening is carried out using anchors in the same way as fastening guide profiles. Verticality is checked with a plumb line. If it is necessary to straighten the verticality, thin spacers are placed.

Then vertical supports from rack profiles are installed. The first profile is fixed at a distance of 55 cm from the profiles fixed to the wall; subsequent supports are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other (the distance is measured to the center of the profile). They are attached to the guide profiles at the top and bottom using self-tapping flea screws. During installation, the verticality of the profiles is controlled by a plumb line.

The doorway is formed by rack profiles. For this purpose, two vertical racks from this profile from floor to ceiling, and at the required height a jumper made of the same material is fixed horizontally to them. If there is no future door frame, then the profiles forming the doorway should be reinforced with a wooden block, which is secured inside the profile with screws. The width of the beam corresponds to the width of the profile.

If the frame structure is not strong enough, then one or more transverse bridges from the guide profile should be installed. To strengthen the frame (if necessary), you can use intermediate wooden beams, which can be fixed both vertically and horizontally.

When choosing the size of metal profiles, you should take into account the strength of the future wall. Best performance are achieved when using profiles with a width of 100 mm, but greatest distribution finds material 65 mm wide.

When making a simplified frame entirely from wooden beams, the principle of its assembly is practically no different from installing a frame made of a metal profile. It is advisable to connect the beams together using furniture corners.

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Cladding one side of the wall

After installing the wall frame, you can proceed directly to making it from plasterboard. Depending on where the wall is located, you should choose the brand of material. In most cases, regular plasterboard is suitable. However, if a partition for a bathroom is being formed, then plasterboard should be used.

The first sheet of drywall is usually not cut to width and is installed close to the side wall of the room. The length of the sheet is either cut (if it is 3 m long) or added by a segment from another sheet. Drywall is cut with a construction knife. The next sheet is cut to size taking into account the openings. At the junction of the sheets, a bevel is made with an angle of slightly more than 20°. It is best to use a special plane for these purposes, but you can also use a file.

The sheets are attached using self-tapping screws measuring 3.5x35 mm. First, the edges are attached in the corner of the drywall, and then the edges in the middle and along the lines of contact with the frame. The distance between the screws is 10-25 cm. The screws are screwed in until the cap is immersed in the cardboard. An important condition is that the drywall is installed with a gap to the floor of about 10-15 mm. This is how one side of the frame is faced.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

Drywall (gypsum board) is a universal material for leveling walls, creating an additional layer of insulation, or for remodeling a room (installing a partition). Working with sheets is quite simple, and it will not be difficult to glue wallpaper or tiles on top of the resulting wall, or do a simple painting. Depending on the conditions of subsequent operation, you should choose either a regular or moisture-resistant type. In any case, every owner can install plasterboard walls with his own hands.

Preparation and installation of gypsum plasterboard partitions

To accurately install a plasterboard wall, you will need to mark the floor, walls and ceiling where exactly the partition is supposed to be. Markings and lines for fastening are drawn relative to the window and must be parallel to the other two walls.

Along the marked perimeter, a rigid guide profile is screwed using dowels, which will be the support for future design. To understand how to make a wall from plasterboard, you must take into account the following rule: the rack profile must be turned with a stiffener in the direction from which the sheets will begin to be attached. If installation is performed from right to left, then the ribs should be on the right.

If a door is provided in the partition, then it is necessary to strengthen the rack profile. To do this, you will need to install a beam in it that fully matches the width and depth. Detailed video about installing plasterboard walls with your own hands will allow you to see this process with your own eyes and understand exactly what the prepared structure should look like.

Next, rack profiles are distributed along the guides at a distance of approximately 40-60 cm from each other. It is worth considering that the joints of two sheets need to be made only on one common profile. In this case, the strength of the structure will be highest.

In the part that is located above the door, you need to insert additional profiles that will ensure rigidity of fastening of the sheets and then make sure that the resulting base is strong and can withstand the weight of the drywall being screwed on. The sheets are attached using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. At the joints to create an ideal plane, pasting of thin plastic mesh and subsequent covering with plaster for leveling. At this stage, the installation of the partition will be completed and it will be possible to begin finishing it.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing walls with plasterboard

The work of leveling or insulating is a little simpler than installing a partition. For installation you will need the same guides and rack profiles.

1. Before work, it is necessary to make markings under the level according to which the plasterboard wall will be mounted. The guide profile is attached to the main wall, thereby leaving enough space under the drywall for insulation.

2. Guide profiles are installed according to the markings. During the construction process, various photos of plasterboard walls attached to the article will help you understand how to carry out the installation correctly.

3. Rack profiles are placed at a distance of approximately 40 cm. To install them, you will need to pre-attach hangers to the walls, on which the vertical elements will rest. Then, using self-tapping screws, the rack profiles are connected to the hangers.

4. The first sheet of drywall is being installed. If necessary, it is necessary to place insulation under it. Mineral wool High Quality ideal for these purposes.

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only technical aspects installation, but also the characteristics of the material itself.

Peculiarities

Drywall sheet is lightweight and flexible material, with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

The structure of plasterboard sheet (GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

• allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
• allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of the various shapes and complexity;
• have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
• differ in sound insulation;
• characterized by high thermal insulation;
• made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
• fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

• are light in weight;
• easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
• the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
• a coating made from this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
• leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

• walls that divide the room;
• partitions of any shape;
• complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in a short time, their cost is much lower than options made from brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary engineering Communication and provide additional insulation.

The material is light in weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience using the usual tools found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

• by profile type: regular and arched;
• By functional purpose: temporary or capital;
• by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
• by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls made of gypsum plasterboard differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners and are often supplemented stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify the overall appearance of the room, contribute to its division into different zones and add finishing elements additional functionality. Such walls and partitions are installed using a frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

• the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
• cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
• The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

• Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
• Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, width is 1.2 m, length - 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification is widely used in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in ceiling cladding. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

• GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of the wall version, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity(in bathrooms and shower rooms).
• GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. He has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber contains active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all this is enhanced with special fire-resistant impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where high demands are placed. fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

• GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
• Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes Finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in covering surfaces and creating decorative elements indoors.

Ceiling

Today, plasterboard is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and constructing multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

• when the ceiling is uneven;
• if necessary, hide utility lines laid on top - pipes, massive ventilation ducts, unsightly cables and others;
• for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling finishing using gypsum plasterboard can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior work for interior decoration are associated with the installation of drywall. It is used to create a perfectly smooth coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements of the design structure. In addition to its decorative function, gypsum boards also have a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and room insulation. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall using glue or on a pre-assembled frame; as a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, gypsum boards are laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard lining is carried out in any room; it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in the winter.

Plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to warm the room, prevents accumulation dangerous condensate and the appearance of fungus. Finishing The plasterboard wall can be anything.

Floor

Drywall can also be used to finish the floor using the dry method. Of course, for this purpose, exclusively especially durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard finishing coat– parquet, linoleum, carpet, tiles or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - the high speed of work and its cost-effectiveness.

In design, gypsum boards are often used to construct multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

When creating partitions, plasterboard is the number 1 material. It is most often used to divide a room and create stylish and functional zoning of space. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers look very impressive in the interior. plasterboard structures, and in houses with small children they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These could be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches Special attention You should pay attention to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only support lightweight objects.

Frame

Most often, work on covering the surface with plasterboard is carried out using a frame method; for this purpose, wooden or metal sheathing is installed. It is very important to apply the correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor where the mounting of the supporting panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the marking is its width. Markings for rack-mount metal profiles are applied perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is finished first, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the installation of gypsum boards, and only then does the transition to the next surface take place.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

• the marks on the floor and walls need to be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
• the installation of hangers is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
• rack-mounts are fixed into the guides metal profiles so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
• The building level controls the verticality of the base and shelves, after which you need to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

• ceiling finishing;
• installation of partitions;
• giving the walls perfect evenness;
• construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
• masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
• repair of old coatings;
• giving surfaces relief;
• creating multi-level structures;
• insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance is usually used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes are required inside, as well as ventilation devices. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. For this purpose the usual construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades. The sequence of actions is described by instructions according to which the following actions must be performed:

• the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
• markings are applied with a pencil;
• using a knife, cut cardboard with outside;

• The gypsum board is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line;
• the plasterboard panel is returned to its original position, placed on its edge and bent;
• the cardboard from the inside is also cut through, but the blade should not pass through;
• the sheet turns over inner side, is again placed on the support and finally breaks.

After the sheet has been prepared, you should begin directly assembling the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

• Guides are attached along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor; self-tapping screws are used for this;
• a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
• Planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
• The stiffening ribs are fixed to self-tapping screws;

• then communications, wires and cables are carried into the cavity, and they are also filled with mineral wool;
• a sheet of drywall is attached directly to the frame;

• the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
• A primer is applied over the panels and the finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to following points when installing gypsum boards:

• the sheet is attached to metal profiles using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws;
• First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then the central part. Self-tapping screws are placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
• the self-tapping screw is screwed in so that the caps slightly “sink” into the drywall; under no circumstances should they stick out above the surface;
• If possible, before starting cladding, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely represented in construction stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if it is stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
• evaluate the conditions in which the plasterboard was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

• Personally inspect each purchased sheet of plasterboard; there should be no chips or deformations on it. No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed on a product of proper quality. Any violation of integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
• You need to carefully monitor loading and unloading operations. Even if a sheet of drywall was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same condition. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
• If possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. To start, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips; a high-quality sheet should have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife should move evenly and smoothly when cutting;
• if you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that the stingy always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeits and defects, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of Russian construction market occupies the products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production capacity Worldwide. There are about 10 factories producing construction materials in Russia alone. The Knauf company is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands – Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In terms of production volumes in 2002, it took first place, leaving all its main competitors far behind. Distinctive feature GCR of this brand is highly environmentally safe, confirmed by the “Leaf of Life” and “Ecomaterial” certificates. In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than products from other manufacturers. However, its price is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established production of drywall throughout the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of the number of production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge plasterboard has a fairly affordable price. It was this company that, at the beginning of this century, made a real revolution in the production of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all edges of which were covered with cardboard. This type of panel processing has become unique business card companies.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. From the leading Russian manufacturers the following can be distinguished:

• "Gypsum" (Volgograd)– produces drywall under the famous Volma brand. The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and reasonable price.
• Gifas (Sverdlovsk)– produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of performance parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

• Abdullingips (Kazan)– has established the production of conventional gypsum boards and gypsum boards, which are distinguished by their low price compared to other Russian analogues.
• "Golden Group Gips" (Tolyatti)– produces sheets of plasterboard using equipment from the French concern Lafarge. The products are distinguished by exceptional quality and competitive prices.

Initial stage overhaul housing stock is redevelopment. Interior walls made of plasterboard are currently the most common type of dividing the area of ​​apartments and houses into separate rooms. The trend in recent years has been new buildings that offer open-plan apartments. The total area in such apartments is not divided into separate rooms. Future owners are offered to plan the space themselves, zoning the premises into separate rooms at their discretion. For interior walls more often .

Interior walls made of plasterboard without plaster

The reasons why this method of building walls is preferred is due to the advantages of such structures. Thanks to them, plasterboard partitions have replaced partitions made of brick and gypsum ridge slabs.
Positive sides installation of plasterboard construction:

• speed of assembly, installation of the wall takes little time;
• lightweight design;
• reliable, durable, stable;
• The wiring of electrical points is greatly facilitated; there is no need to trench the walls;
• good sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness of materials.

With certain skills, you can make a plasterboard wall with your own hands in literally a day.

Planning and calculations

Before you begin, you need to plan the room and calculate the material.

In this situation, they resort to the services of builders, designers, or you can do it yourself. You just need to take into account the main points. Eat technical certificate houses, apartments to scale. It will become the basis of the layout. Using the existing scale, draw the proposed walls on it. But we have to . They are made from, which can withstand increased loads.

Types of profiles

Based on which profile will be chosen, the depth (thickness) of the partition is calculated. The wider the bar, the thicker and more reliable the partition. But quite often they resort to another method of strengthening the structure; a rack profile, for example, 50 mm, is paired. They are installed with the base (wide part) facing each other and secured with press washers. Thus, an I-beam with 2 additional stiffeners is formed.

Such a frame is not inferior in strength to a 100 mm profile, but is narrower in thickness. In order to calculate the interior wall, you need to add 2 thicknesses of the gypsum plasterboard sheet (12.5 mm) to the width of the profile: let’s say a profile of 50 mm + (12.5x2 mm gypsum plasterboard) = 50 + 25 = 75 mm - wall thickness.

Quite often, then you need to add another 25 mm.

The layout of the door in the partition has important When planning the partition, it is tedious to take into account the dimensions of the door. Depending on the purpose of the premises. Thus, doors with a width of 700 mm are installed in bathrooms, and interior doors are 800 mm wide. The average height is 2,000 mm. If desired, the width indicators can be shifted to a smaller or larger direction.

Read also

Installation of decorative plasterboard partition with your own hands

Material calculation

• perimeter of the structure;
• square;
• step between racks;
• doorway dimensions.

The calculation of guide profiles (PN) is done based on the perimeter. They are attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls. The total perimeter is divided by the length of the purchased guide profile, and the number of strips needed for the partition is obtained.
An example of calculating the rate of material consumption for a wall. The rack profile is calculated based on the length, height and pitch between the racks. Recommended pitch 600 mm. Thus, a sheet of plasterboard, the width of which is 1200 mm, will be attached to three racks. One in the center of the sheet, and 2 along the edges. To calculate the racks, you need to divide the length of the partition by 600 mm, you get the number of racks.

Then the height of the wall is multiplied by the number of racks. As a result, we will determine how many linear meters of the rack profile are needed. This molding is divided into 3.4 m (the length of the planks), obtaining required quantity, which must be purchased for wall installation. In addition to horizontal racks, in the partitions of the frame, they install crossbars. They are made from a rack profile, cutting the edges at an angle of 45⁰.

The net width of the jumpers (direct hangers) is 600 mm (step pitch), additionally you need to take into account the margin for the wings that will be trimmed. The recommended pitch between straight hangers is also 600 mm. Divide the height of the partition by 600 mm. We get the number of pieces, then multiply by the number of sections (one section - two racks).

This way we will find out how many linear meters of the rack profile will go into the racks. Next, we divide this molding into 3.4 meters. As a result, we find out the number of slats. We add to them the calculated strips on the horizontal racks, and we get the total sum of the PS profiles. It is more accurate to calculate the doorway, but it is still necessary to purchase the material with a 10-15% reserve, since some always goes to waste.

Partition installation

How to make an interior wall from plasterboard.
Before you begin installing interior walls, you need to make markings.
But first you need to prepare the materials.
Materials:

• guide profile (PN/UW);
• rackmount (PS/CW;
• deep penetration;
• spatula;
• grout mesh.

Read also

Methods for finishing walls with plasterboard

Tool kit for installing plasterboard walls Tools:

1. Drill.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Cutter (connect the corners of the guide profile).
4. Planer for drywall.

1. (6x40, 6x45).
2. 2 (2.5); 4 (4.5) cm.

For cutting: grinder, metal scissors. Marking and control over the correctness of the design is done using: a regular large and small level, a corner. Assembly order:

1. First they make the markings. A regular laser level is set and a straight line is drawn along it. It is then transferred to load-bearing wall, ceiling. Mark the partition doors. It is better to check the correctness of the lines several times; the installation of the frame will depend on this.
   Markings for wall mounting are best done with a laser level
2. Then the partition body is modeled. First attach the guide profile to the floor with dowels, then to the ceiling, connect side racks guides, using a cutter, if you don’t have one, .
   We begin installation with a guide profile on the ceiling and floor
3. To do this, you need to install a vertical guide profile on the door marking line. Please note that the doorway is made several centimeters larger than the size of the door. The box still needs to be installed. The thickness of the indentation is adjusted by the thickness of the box. A jumper is inserted between the door guides (to the width of the opening). To strengthen the doorway, insert into the vertical and horizontal profile wooden beam. I mount two vertical posts from above the lintel to the ceiling. Check the evenness of the structure, use a corner or level.
   
4. Installation of a vertical rack profile can begin from the door guides (step 600 mm). Then, from the doorway, it will be possible to attach a single sheet. The trimmings will be at the end of the partition. It should be taken into account that the racks are cut less than the height of the room, by about 1 cm, in case of shrinkage.
   Installation of the rack profile begins from the door opening
5. Next, blanks of straight hangers are cut. If the main size of the lintel is 600 mm, you need to add another 6-8 cm. The side shelves are cut at an angle of 45⁰ and folded up. Fasten between posts (screws) with a pitch of 600 mm. The last jumper from the ceiling must be at least 30 cm from the ceiling.
   Installation of a horizontal profile from ceiling to floor

Then they make the wiring of electrical points in the corrugated sleeve. Sew up one side with plaster. They lay insulation on the other side as well. The video shows the process of installing a plasterboard wall.

The main task of renovation in apartments and houses is to bring the walls into normal condition. Just a few decades ago, practically no one had heard of perfectly smooth walls. They leveled it out based on the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: delete old plaster and re-plaster along the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls using gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets).

The second task that is most often solved during renovation work is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed and new ones are installed in their place. Decorative and interior partitions also installed using drywall. This article will talk about how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands: photos, videos.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when there is a need to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching plasterboard sheets to walls:

1. On a base made of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, but is attached directly to the wall itself. Too much big differences it is much more difficult to compensate; first you will have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cramping the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fastenings on wooden blocks is that if they are used insufficiently dry (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they may “lead” during drying, and therefore the entire structure will become warped. There is also a possibility of wood destruction by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since prices for lumber are much lower than for profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a galvanized profile frame allows you to get perfect flat surface for any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled so that the front part of the lintel and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the gypsum boards are located at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of a profile frame is the possibility of installing a sound absorber and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without insulation it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of plasterboard sheets directly on the walls.

In other words, installing gypsum boards with glue. Use “liquid nails” or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with minor differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in piles if there are differences, and in strips if the walls are smooth), then the sheet is mounted in place, leveled using a level, secured with supports and wedges.

The latest technology, placing drywall on glue, is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. There is not glue under the sheets everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you have previously planned to attach something to the wall, install a mounting beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences; the surface is not perfectly flat (a difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the “pieces” of glue, the gypsum board bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos

So, when gluing a sheet to a wall, no fasteners are required; we will mainly talk about metal frame. The screws for fastening to wood are exactly the same, they just use special screws for wood.

Purpose of plasterboard sheets and their sizes

A few words about how to lay gypsum boards on walls and what sizes they come in. The standard sizes are: height – 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones, a little shorter in length. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm – designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm – universal material for ceilings and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling-grade. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as are used for finishing uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be turned indoors.

How to join sheets

If there is a need to join plasterboard sheets in height, try to position the joints so that a long line does not form; they are laid offset or staggered, preferably so that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By moving the seam, with almost a hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed with a shift of half the width (60 centimeters).

Rules for installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photos, videos

During installation, plasterboard sheets are pressed against the frame and secured using special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 screws (25x3.5 millimeters), in stores they are called “for drywall.” Color – white or black (more often broken), length – 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, similar-sized screws with a flat head are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the required depth: the head should be recessed in the sheet, without tearing the cardboard; it should also be screwed perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, thus reducing the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on solid wall the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each plasterboard sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls in the middle of the profile.

Having made an indent of 10-12 millimeters from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be shifted or placed above one another. The installation step is 250-300 millimeters. Fastened along the middle profile and along the perimeter.

Another very important point is the height of the installed sheet; it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Do-it-yourself partition for a plasterboard wall: photo, video

Installing a partition is a little more complicated, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Marking.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with laser level(laser plane builder). This straight line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If you don’t have a laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level (high quality). Then, using a level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting straight line should be located strictly above the line on the floor; this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on this.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the intended line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW – load-bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6*60 or 6*40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is no more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but maybe different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. From width load-bearing profile It will depend on how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be placed there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the load-bearing capacity and make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the supporting one; they must be identical. It is between them that the insulation is installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in several ways. The first one is mainly used professional builders. They work with a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides and fastens two parts. During independent repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs attach them to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill into the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no holes need to be drilled). The racks are secured on each side with two self-tapping screws.

An important point: if you are installing a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the joint of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent squeaking. During walking, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the profiles; as a result, the profiles rub and a creaking occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided for, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the plasterboard sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If the gap is still more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or the sheet will sag and wobble in this area. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​the outer profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is secured with self-tapping screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are set and secured, the structure is given rigidity using jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are placed at the height of the junction of two sheets; they must be secured. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, place 80 cm, if small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are prerequisite when covering gypsum boards. It is also advisable to reinforce them with a wooden block.

1. Laying communications, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying electrical wiring and communications. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses/apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-flammable material (marked “NG”).

1. Sheathing with heat/sound insulation and plasterboard.

After laying communications, they begin to install plasterboard sheets. They are installed exactly as for cladding. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with gypsum board on the other side. For partitions and walls, conventional insulation is used.

• Expanded polystyrene. One of the types of polystyrene foam. It is distinguished by closed-shaped cells, due to which it has better characteristics: fungi do not develop, rodents do not like it, it dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, it is more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and can be easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. The downside is the high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent thermal and sound insulation characteristics, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg/m3) is applied. It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burned it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This stone wool(basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt ones are considered the most environmentally friendly because they do not contain formaldehyde. They are quite easy to work with, hold up well, are easy to cut, are less susceptible to moisture, and do not require respiratory or skin protection during installation. Their disadvantage is their high cost. The most affordable option of these insulation materials is slag wool, glass wool average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other insulation, but the above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When covering walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. To do this, you will need a stationery knife, a long, flat object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you need to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

DIY plasterboard walls: photos, video tutorials

Unfortunately not all features this process can be described, some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of a frame from profiles. Since this is truly one of the most labor-intensive works, and how smooth the partition and wall will be depends on how correctly the frame is formed.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This non-standard way frame assembly, but the racks turn out to be really rigid. This method must be used if you are building a full-fledged partition between rooms from gypsum plasterboard, in which case reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: corrugated or smooth?

On the market there is various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of metal, it is stiffer. How good he really is, look at the video.