Everyone understands that it is impossible to live in a room without arranging the floor. Whether it's a house or an apartment, you can't do without it. But not everyone knows whether a subfloor is needed in a wooden house. Why do we need additional expenses for its arrangement? Can't you just get by with a clear coat? And what is meant by this name? This article is for those who want to figure it out and make a subfloor themselves.

What is a subfloor?

The subfloor is a kind of base for the finishing coating, creating a horizontal, even plane for it. It serves to distribute the load on the floor covering.

A classic subfloor is the construction of a subfloor on joists. This is exactly what is usually done in wooden buildings. For it, logs with a certain distance from each other are laid on the base base. On large areas provide a double frame system, the so-called sheathing.

In it, between the lags, jumpers made of timber (crossbar) are installed. At the same time, the horizontal alignment of the surface of the logs is constantly monitored. A cranial block is attached to the bottom of the log. The subfloor made of plywood or wood board. Subsequently, insulating material and waterproofing are laid between the joists.

Insulation and vapor barrier are laid on top of the subfloors. To make a rough coating, use chipboard or fibreboard or plywood

Stages of subfloor installation

And now more about how to make a subfloor with your own hands. There are two options for installing lags: on the ceiling or on the base. In any case, before installing the subfloor, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation of the subfloor. All it takes is drilling a few round holes in the corners of the house. Subsequently, they are covered with bars. Also, before starting work, the entire underground space is treated with an antiseptic. These events guarantee the strength and durability of a wooden house.

Preparing logs for construction

In fact, logs are bars from which the frame for the future floor is made. For them, boards made of second or third grade wood are used. Since such logs usually have uneven surface They must be prepared before use.

To do this, the side on which the finished floor will be attached must be leveled using an ax. It will not be possible to make the surface perfectly flat, but it is necessary to level it a little. The horizontalness of the final coating depends on this. The top of the logs are covered with antiseptics.

Before laying the logs, grooves are made in the upper crown of the walls. Planed logs should fit exactly into these grooves, but with a distance from the end to the walls of 2-3 mm. Later, a soundproofing gasket is installed between them. In addition to the grooves in the beams, additional support is installed for long joists in the form brick pillars. The distance between the joists depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The thinner the boards, the more often the joists are located.

For boards 35 mm thick, the distance between the joists is at least 50 cm, 35-40 mm - 80 cm, more than 40 - 100 cm

Note! After installing the logs, their ends must be fastened. This is necessary so that they do not separate during the process of laying the rough covering boards.

Before carrying out work, the base surface is leveled, covered with crushed stone and compacted. Next, measurements and markings are made for the supports. The supports can be either a grillage covered with roofing felt or beams bottom trim. In the first version, the mark is placed on the roofing felt, in the second, on the bars.

The horizontality of the logs is checked not only relative to the ground, but also relative to each other. They should lie on the same level. Maximum tolerance per 1 m² no more than 1 mm

Support pillars are installed on the foundation, minimum dimensions which for one element is 40x40 cm. Its height must be at least 20 cm, with 5 of them above the ground. They place them on the supports under the logs waterproofing material. It will protect the wood from mold. The logs are attached to the posts using corners and self-tapping screws with dowels. The same device has a subfloor in a brick house.

Fastening the timber

To support the subfloor on joists, use a beam with a section of 50×40 mm or 50×50 mm. Attach it to the bottom of the joists on both sides. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the future insulation that will be laid on rough coating. It is more economical not to purchase ready-made bars, but to buy a 150×40 board and cut it into three parts. As a result, from one board you will get three 50x40 mm bars.

Laying the subfloor

The subfloor is made from plywood or OSB or chipboard sheets. It is advisable to use slabs with tongue-and-groove ends about 20 mm thick. It is allowed to use sheet materials 12 mm thick in two layers. To fasten them securely around the entire perimeter, a sheathing of additional transverse bars is made to the joists. The subfloor boards are secured using self-tapping screws in increments of 90-140 mm. If the floor is made of sheet materials, the joints should fall on the central axis of the additional beams.

Note! Some craftsmen advise not to use for the subfloor. quality material, but a waste board, slab or picket fence. This is due to the fact that the rough coating reacts to changes in humidity and temperature. And such material is capable of deformation.

Having finished installation work, start laying thermal insulation material and waterproofing. You have to be very careful. Subfloor boards can break under heavy weight. Therefore, it is advisable to walk on joists or thick boards thrown over them

Results and video with an example of the work

That's probably all, the rest is in your hands. The seemingly unnecessary expenditure on such flooring will pay off over time. A layer of insulation laid on the rough covering will help save on heating costs. And this, you will agree, is a significant argument in favor of installing a subfloor. In addition, a high-quality subfloor is the key to the durability of the finishing coating.

The subfloor is a prepared base for the finishing coating: laminate, linoleum, parquet. The subfloor can be wood or concrete.

Advantages of a wooden floor:

• environmental friendliness;
• thermal insulation;
• good breathability.

The disadvantage of a rough wooden floor is that this structure does not resist well high humidity. Therefore, wooden logs cannot be installed in baths and steam rooms.

Concrete screed also has its advantages:

• durability;
• soundproofing;
• high strength;
• resistance to moisture, combustion and chemical attack;
• quick installation and affordable price.

The disadvantage of the screed is its cold surface. Such a floor must be insulated.

Regardless of the choice of flooring, the technology for performing both designs is labor-intensive and requires careful work.

DIY floor made of wooden material

Making a wooden floor has its own technology:

1. Wood preparation.
2. Arrangement of sheathing.
3. Laying insulation.

Second or third grade wood can be used as subfloor beams. Those sides of the beams on which the flooring will be laid should be leveled.

You can install logs in two ways: on the floor or on the base.

According to the first method, it is necessary to lay the logs of the lower trim and make grooves in them in those places where the logs will be laid top harness. The depth of the grooves is equal to the width of the upper beams.

The harness must be securely installed. To do this, make brick columns that will serve as support for the logs.

The installation of the posts is carried out at the initial stage of the subfloor. This design is also called “ columnar foundation" The technology is like this:

1. Along the line of the ceilings, holes are dug at the same distance from each other. Pit size: 20x20x40 mm.
2. Layers of gravel and sand are poured onto the bottom, compacting well. Then lay the reinforcing mesh.
3. The holes are filled sandy cement mortar. Cement, sand and water are taken respectively in the following parts: 1: 3: 0.5.
4. Roofing felt is laid on the hardened concrete.
5. Brick columns are built.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness wood material: the thinner the beam, the closer the logs are located. The laid beams must be secured to each other.

Installing a log “at the base” involves removing the top layer of soil and filling the surface with small crushed stone. Overlapping logs are laid on the resulting base, as in the previous version.

A waterproofing film is laid on the lower base, and a layer of insulation is laid on top.

At this stage it is necessary to decide on the finishing coating. If this sheet material Chipboard, then before laying it, it is recommended to make a sheathing of transverse bars, which are secured to supports.

Sheets of flooring are laid on the sheathing so that their joints are located in the center of the lintels.

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Subfloor of a concrete structure

When pouring a subfloor, imperfections and unevenness are allowed.

The purpose of the rough screed is to level big differences surface height and create a base for finishing screed.

The step-by-step instructions look like this:

1. Determine differences in unevenness and install beacons.
2. Prepare the base.
3. Prepare a cement mixture and pour the floor.
4. Monitor the condition of the screed.

First, you need to clear the surface of debris and use a level to determine the height of the screed.

Heaps serve as beacons cement mixture required height, on which they lay metallic profile. The guides are secured with mortar. The height of the profiles is the level of the future screed.

For good adhesion of the rough screed to the base, it must be prepared. First, you need to seal all large depressions and cracks with mortar. Next, the surface is primed to improve the adhesion of concrete to the base surface.

All wires will be embedded in the screed. But before pouring, all communications must be wrapped in insulating material and secured to the base using dowels.

It is necessary to glue a damper tape around the perimeter of the room, which compensates for the deformation of the screed.

To prepare the solution, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1:3. Water is added to the mixture gradually until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. Approximately, water consumption is 0.5 kg per 1 kg of cement-sand mixture.

Necessary tools for preparing the solution and pouring the screed:

• shovel;
• solution container or electric concrete mixer;
• buckets;
• workwear.

The solution is poured between the beacons and the slats; it is usually distributed. If voids form, then the mixture is added to those places and leveled again.

The cement mixture must be prepared in small portions, as the solution hardens quickly. It is recommended to fill the floor in one day so that the surface is uniform.

When drying, the screed may shrink. To prevent this, you must take the following measures:

1. For the first 3 days you cannot walk on the screed.
2. Avoid drafts and direct sunlight in the room.
3. The next day after pouring, the screed must be covered with film.

A good subfloor is the key to a strong structure of the entire room. High-quality installation and strict adherence to technology will allow the foundation to serve for many decades.

The concept of “subfloor” hides not just poorly processed boards, but a real “pie” of various materials, which together form a solid foundation for the finished floor. By the way, the subfloor does not have to be wooden; it can also be a concrete screed on the ground. The technology for arranging a subfloor includes a set of measures that provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the base. In this article we will look at how you can make a durable and reliable subfloor on which you can lay any finishing coating.

How to make a wooden subfloor on the ground

IN country house arranging the floor is a responsible and time-consuming task. Wooden flooring on the ground can be done without restrictions. Even if you live in a house temporarily, when the heating is not working, the wooden floor lasts for a long time without changes, since the underground is well ventilated through vents in the foundation.

For wooden elements of the floor structure, it is necessary to select high-quality dried wood with a moisture content of no more than 12%. This is important, since wet wood can “lead” during operation. For the subfloor in the house, coniferous wood species are chosen - spruce, pine, fir, larch. Wood saturated with resins is less susceptible to rotting and mold development.

Also, wood for joists and subfloors must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

The underground wooden floor on joists should be well ventilated. To do this, vents are made in the foundation, which are covered with a mesh with a mesh size of no more than 8 mm, so that mice do not get inside.

Wooden floor base

The design of a wooden floor on the ground assumes that the floorboards will be laid on logs - longitudinal beams. Depending on the characteristics of the house, logs can be laid on support beams, a crown molding or on support posts.

If the room is large enough, fixing the logs only at the ends to the beams will not be enough; the structure will turn out to be fragile. Therefore, in the spaces between the walls, support columns are installed on which the logs will be laid. The pitch between the columns depends on the cross-section of the lag. For example, if a 150x150 mm beam is used as a log, then the distance between the support posts should be no more than 80 cm.

How to make support pillars for joists:

• First we make markings where the logs will be located. We make marks on the support beams or foundation of the house. Then we stretch the cords across the entire underground. We stretch the cords across the future logs at a distance of 80 cm or any other distance that is equal to the step between the posts. Support posts will be located at the intersections of cords or ropes.

• In the places where we will make support pillars, we dig a hole 40 - 60 cm deep, with sides 40 cm.
• At the bottom of the pit we compact the soil, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, and then 10 cm of crushed stone. We carefully compact each layer one by one. This will be our backfill for the foundation of the column.
• We install in the hole wooden formwork for pouring a foundation under a concrete column. If the support columns are made of brick, then the height of the foundation should be such that it rises 5 - 10 cm above the ground level. If the entire support column is cast from concrete, then the height of the formwork should be such that the logs laid on the column are positioned horizontally.
• Inside the formwork we insert a reinforcing frame connected from steel rods with a cross-section of 6 - 8 mm.
• We pour concrete.

Important! If the entire column is poured from concrete, then it is necessary to ensure that the surface of the column is exactly horizontal and that all columns are at the same level.

• After completely dry concrete, cover the surface of the column with roofing material or glass insulation in 2 - 3 layers. Definitely no sprinkles. Coat the surface and joints with mastic.

If you want to make support columns from brick, then the masonry must be fastened with cement mortar. For a column less than 25 cm high, the masonry should be 1.5 bricks; for a higher column, a masonry of 2 bricks will be required.

After the concrete has dried, the formwork can be removed. For greater reliability fertile soil It’s better to remove it from the underground. It must be removed to a depth of 20 cm. Instead of soil, it is advisable to add 10 cm of gravel and 10 cm of sand and compact it thoroughly with a vibrating plate.

Before arranging the base, it is necessary to treat the beams, joists and subfloor boards with an antiseptic. The logs can be laid directly on the embedded crown or foundation and on the support columns, or you can first install the support beams on the columns, and then the logs across the top. Any option is correct. Only laying the logs across the beams provides a more stable and robust construction in the event that the distance between the logs is very small, 40 - 60 cm.

The cross-section of the logs must be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating material that will be laid between them. For example, if the thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, then it is necessary to take a beam with a height of 180 mm. Always need to leave ventilation gap at 30 mm.

The pitch between the lags is selected taking into account the thickness of the boards of the future floor. More precise instructions can be found in the table below.

Table 1. Lag step.

Let's consider laying lags on support posts:

• We lay the logs on the embedded crown (support beams, foundation) and support posts. We control their even position, horizontal. A noise-absorbing material can be placed on the surface of the support posts under the logs. But this is not necessary, since roofing felt or other waterproofing material that covers the surface of the post has a good spring and hides sounds.
• If, however, sagging of the logs is noticed somewhere, it is necessary to place wooden blocks on the support posts under the logs and secure them firmly. If a beam sticks out somewhere, it can be cut off with a plane.

Important! The maximum permissible deviation in the evenness of the joists is 1 mm per 1 m.

• We fix the logs to support pillars using mounting brackets. On the side of the wood we fix it with self-tapping screws 50 mm long, and on the side concrete column- tighten the anchor.
• The first to lay the so-called “beacon logs”, which are located at a distance of 2 m from each other. We will follow them further.
• By analogy, we lay all the logs and check their even position.

After all the logs are secured, you can begin arranging heat and waterproofing.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing of wooden floors

Waterproofing and thermal insulation materials are laid between the joists. To secure them, it is necessary to arrange the base. There are several ways to do this.

Method 1. Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood can be nailed to the bottom of the joist. This design will be as reliable as possible. To do this, you will have to work underground, which is not always possible.

Method 2. The lag can be nailed at the bottom cranial bars 20 mm thick, roll the boards on top. This work is more painstaking, since you will have to cut a lot of boards with a cross-section of 15 mm and a length equal to the pitch between the logs.

You can choose the method that you like best. The main thing is to get a fairly strong foundation.

• We lay a layer of waterproofing with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, and seal the joints with construction tape.

Important! Be sure to use a superdiffusion, vapor-permeable membrane. We need the waterproofing material to release moisture from the room, but not let it in from the underground. Therefore, ordinary plastic film cannot be used.

• We lay thermal insulation material on top of the film between the joists. We cut the rolled material with a width equal to the pitch between the lags plus 1 - 2 cm, so that the material fits into the gap between the lags at random.

Important! As insulation for a wooden floor, you can use mineral wool in rolls, slabs, basalt wool, you can blow in ecowool, sawdust. Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam cannot be used. These materials are completely vapor-tight; a wooden floor simply cannot breathe.

A ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm must be left on top of the insulation.

Laying the subfloor

Now you can lay the subfloor in the house. There are several options for arranging rough flooring. The material can be used floorboard 15 - 25 mm thick with minimal processing. You can also use tongue and groove flooring if finances allow. For subfloors, the price depends on the cost of the materials used. If you use a thick solid board, then there is no point in laying a subfloor from a floor board. Or you can lay down sheets of plywood and lay a finished floor covering on top.

Subfloor from floorboards:

• We start laying from the wall. We cut off the tenon and apply the board to the wall, leaving a gap of 2 cm.

Important! A distance from the walls is required, since wood is a plastic material; when it absorbs moisture, it expands, and when it dries, it shrinks. The gap will provide unhindered opportunity for the wood to expand and shrink.

• We fix the board to the joists. From the wall side we screw the screws directly into the board, then this place will be hidden by the baseboard.
• From the tenon side, we screw the screws into the tenon at an angle of 45 degrees.
• We move the next board close to the first. We insert it into the groove of the first board.
• We screw a self-tapping screw into the groove of the second board, securing it to the joist.
• We lay all subsequent boards by analogy.

Important! If the boards are the same length as the room, then they can be laid exactly parallel to each other. If the boards are shorter than the room, then they must be laid offset - staggered.

The last board is secured so that the screw heads can be hidden under the baseboard. At this point the subfloor is ready. The main thing is to fit the boards tightly to each other. You can lay flooring on top.

How to make a wood subfloor on a concrete base

In apartments with concrete floors, you can also make a wooden floor. The logs are laid on concrete base, but for this it must be even. A height difference of several centimeters is unacceptable. Therefore, the option of placing wooden blocks under the sagging logs is not suitable. Over time, the pads will dry out and become deformed, which can easily cause them to fly out and the floor will begin to creak.

Preparation of the base: hydro- and sound insulation

Before laying the joists on the concrete floor, it is necessary to level the base. To do this, fill in cement-sand screed. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely dried, i.e. a month later.

To the surface concrete screed We lay the waterproofing film with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, seal the joints with tape.

We place soundproofing pads under the joists. For this you can use cork materials or foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 1 - 4 mm. Lining under the joists is needed to dampen impact noise.

Laying joists on concrete

It is advisable to use a beam length equal to length rooms. If this is not possible, then you can take a shorter beam and connect it to the end. The connection points should be spaced apart.

• We lay the logs on the prepared base.
• We check the horizontal position of the logs.
• We fix the logs to the floor using corners. Do not forget that the corners themselves are attached to concrete floor anchors.
• After laying and securing all the joists, we lay the insulation between the joists in the same way as in the case of a floor on the ground.

Do not forget to leave a ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm.

Installation of subfloor

We lay a subfloor on top of the joist. As mentioned above, it could be plywood, or it could be a floorboard.

Consider the option of arranging a subfloor made of plywood:

• We take a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 22 mm.
• We lay a sheet of plywood on the joists and fasten them to them with self-tapping screws in 15 cm increments.
• We arrange the plywood sheets in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, some of them will have to be cut.
• The joints of the plywood sheets must not be on the same line.

Do not forget that there should be a gap of 2 - 3 cm between the wall and the subfloor. From above plywood base You can lay the following floor coverings: laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, vinyl tiles, parquet, parquet boards, solid boards.

Installation of rough concrete floors on the ground

It is not always possible to pour a concrete floor in a private house over the ground. There are certain restrictions. Firstly, groundwater on the site should be quite low - at a level of 4 - 5 m. Secondly, the soil must be stable, not mobile, otherwise the concrete floor may collapse. Thirdly, people must permanently live in the house, or it would be even more correct to say, it must be heated in cold period of the year. If all conditions are met, you can safely fill concrete slab on the ground.

Excavation and foundation preparation

First of all, it is necessary to outline the “zero” mark - the level of the future floor. You need to orient yourself along the bottom of the doorway. All walls must be marked so that in the future you can see until when to pour concrete.

• The floor on the ground is a multi-layer structure 30 - 35 cm thick. To equip it, we remove upper layer soil until the height from the zero mark to the bottom of the pit is 30 - 35 cm.

Important! If the soil level is below 30 - 35 cm from the floor level, then it is necessary to level the soil surface, compact it, add sand to the required level and also compact it thoroughly.

• We compact the base of the pit.
• Pour a 10 cm layer of crushed stone and compact it thoroughly. If the thickness of the backfill is difficult to control, then we hammer several pegs into the ground at the required mark. After leveling and compacting, the pegs can be removed.

• Pour the 10th layer of sand, water it and tamp it too.
• Pour a small layer of crushed stone on top with a fraction of 40 - 50 mm.
• Sprinkle with sand, forming thin layer, compact thoroughly.

Important! If suddenly sharp edges of crushed stone fractions are observed on the surface of the base, it is necessary to unfold the pebble and place it so that there are no sharp corners anywhere.

At all stages of backfilling, it is necessary to ensure horizontality.

Waterproofing, thermal insulation, reinforcement

• We lay a waterproofing material on the surface of the base - polyethylene film with a density of 200 microns, roofing felt or glass insulation. The main thing is that the material is not damaged by the edges of the crushed stone.
• We apply waterproofing material to the walls to a level 2 cm above the floor level. We lay it with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm and glue it with tape.

• At this stage, you can lay durable thermal insulation material. For example, extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool in slabs, perlite or expanded clay. You can also place the thermal insulation layer higher, on top of the concrete base.

• Concrete floors must be reinforced. For this we use metal mesh with cells 10 cm.
• We install the reinforcing mesh on stands 2 - 3 cm high so that the mesh is completely inside the concrete.

Installation of formwork and guides

To maintain a horizontal floor level, it is necessary to lay so-called “beacons” or guides. For these purposes, you can use round and square steel pipes, wooden blocks. We place them in increments of no more than 1 m. We fix them with thick cement mortar. You can also control their height by pouring more solution under the guides.

We install formwork between the guides to fill the floor. This is not necessary, but it makes the task of pouring a concrete floor by hand much easier.

We treat the guides and formwork with oil or polish so that after pouring they can be easily removed.

Rough floor screed - pouring concrete

It is necessary to pour a concrete floor in a house in one or two passes. If you take long breaks, the foundation will turn out to be fragile.

• We begin pouring concrete from the corner opposite the front door.
• Fill several cards at once, then level them with a shovel.
• We compact the concrete using an internal vibrator.
• Level the surface using the rule. We set the rule on the guides and pull it towards us. Excess solution is distributed among cards that do not have enough solution.
• We take out the cards and fill the voids with concrete.
• When the entire floor is poured with concrete using this technology, it must be covered plastic film and let dry for a month.

For better drying of the concrete subfloor, its surface must be moistened with water.

After the concrete has completely dried, you can finish screeding the floor and laying the floor covering.

Making a subfloor with your own hands is a very important task, because a solid foundation is much more important than a finishing coating. For example, in an old house, you should not lay new flooring on top of the old subfloor unless it has been completely renovated.

Many novice builders who have just started building their home are already wondering what kind of linoleum or laminate they will lay in their future room.

And soon, they are faced with the question - How and on what to lay this linoleum. Of course, we all understand that first you need to make a so-called subfloor - a base on which you can subsequently lay any floor covering you like. But how to properly make a floor “from scratch” so that it is reliable, smooth and, most importantly, warm. You will find the answer in this article.

To make a subfloor with your own hands, you do not need any professional skills or special tools. The main thing you need is a good physical strength and a head on his shoulders, as well as some, the most ordinary tool. But more on that later, first you need to decide what building material you will need to purchase to build the subfloor. Choice of flooring materials construction market is now huge, but we will consider the most common option - no less reliable and at the same time not expensive.

We use the following lumber:

— wooden beam with dimensions 100 by 150 mm (or 150 by 200 mm) and length 6000 mm;
— wooden block with dimensions 50 by 50 mm (or 60 by 60 mm) and length 3000 mm;
— planed boards 50 mm thick and 6000 mm long;
- OSB sheets with dimensions 1250 by 2500 mm and minimum thickness 12 mm.

It is advisable to use basalt insulation (or simply glass wool) as insulation. To protect lumber from mold and rot, you need to purchase a special solution (antiseptic). You may also need cement mortar during the construction of the floor. Now let's look at all the lumber used separately, as well as what role they play in rough floor.
Lumber used.

Wooden beams with dimensions of 100 by 150 mm are used as load-bearing joists, on which the entire floor in the room will subsequently rest.

Bars with dimensions of 50 by 50 mm are intended for placing insulation in the floor.

The cost of timber averages about 6,500 rubles per cubic meter. To calculate the total cubic capacity of all beams, you will need to calculate the volume of one beam and multiply by required amount bars The volume of any beam is calculated as the volume of a parallelepiped.

Choose correct board
The board plays an important role, so it is better to use planed larch as the base of the subfloor. The cost of one cube of such a board is approximately the same as that of beams. The cubic capacity is calculated similarly.

All lumber listed must be made primarily from coniferous species trees, such as larch, it is less afraid of moisture and dampness, which means it will last longer. By the way, the whole of St. Petersburg, which is already more than 300 years old, was built from it!

When purchasing beams and boards, you will need to take into account that the drier the lumber, the better and more expensive it is. After all, dried boards will no longer warp and will not fly (by helicopter), for example, while heating a house. Therefore, we select lumber based on the following criteria:
— the lower the humidity level, the better, you can take it straight from the dryer;
- timber or boards must be smooth, the surfaces without significant defects, cracks and delaminations.
OSB sheets (plates)

These so-called OSB boards are used to complete the construction of the subfloor. Subsequently, OSB panels will serve as the final basis for the floor covering. Translated into Russian, OSB is translated as OSB - oriented strand board. The material itself is a board pressed from sawdust.

Behind recent years 5, OSB boards have become increasingly used for finishing walls and floors and are considered a fairly good basis for almost all types of finishing materials.

The main advantages of OSB boards:
— high moisture resistance;
— high mechanical strength;
— light material in installation.

One OSB sheet with dimensions of 1250 by 2500 mm and a thickness of 12 mm will cost you about 700 rubles. Many Russian manufacturers They sell OSB boards that cost less than 500 rubles apiece. You shouldn’t lean towards the cheaper option; it’s the cheap OSB panels that have received bad reviews because of low level environmental safety.
We've sorted out the materials, now we'll find out what tool you'll need to install the subfloor. Prepare or buy the following tool to make your work as easy as possible:

- hammer;
— electric jigsaw;
- hacksaw or electric saw;
- roulette;
— level 1.5 meters long;
- stationery knife;
- nails 50-100 mm long.

Stages of subfloor construction

Let's first figure out how to properly position the logs. Before you understand correct location Okay, let's go back in time a little. It is advisable to take care of the construction of the floor even before the construction of the main walls of the house, that is, immediately after preparing the foundation. After all, then it will be impossible to correct anything in the location of the lags.

First, we treat all the beams (for the first floor) with a special solution (antiseptic) against mold and rot. The fact is that the logs are located near the ground, under the house, and will always be exposed to a humid environment.

After laying the beams, check that they do not touch the ground (the distance from the bottom of the beam to the surface of the ground must be at least 20 cm). That is why all the space inside the foundation is always cleared in advance.

So, we place the bars perpendicular to the direction of the long side future room with a step of 80-100 cm. The more often the step is maintained, the less the floor will wobble and play, however, this will require more building materials, and therefore more costs.
We place all the beams with an “edge” to increase the rigidity of the floor and make it as high as possible from the ground level. Agree, a room on the ground floor with too low windows is not the best option. We place all the logs in a strictly horizontal position, checking them level from the edges, in the middle and between adjacent beams. If necessary, the edge of the beam can be raised using cement mortar.

The beams should rest with their edges on almost the entire width of the foundation, and their ends should be covered with cement mortar or closed from the street. There is no need to specially attach the logs to the foundation - we simply lay them, but so that they are firmly adjacent to the surface of the foundation and do not wobble.

It is advisable to lay all the boards, even before erecting the walls, on joists and cover them with the same anti-mold solution. You can also adjust them to size and trim the boards that are too long a little, so that later, indoors, it will be more convenient to work with them.

Finally, we make the base of the floor after the walls are erected. We measure all the boards so that at the end there is a gap of 3-5 mm between the wall and the board. This gap is needed so that the board does not rest against the walls during the shrinkage of the house. We lay the boards perpendicular to the direction of the lag.

We nail each board with “weaving” nails, one or two logs every other. You should not hammer three nails into each beam - you will not gain anything by doing this. The boards should also not be pressed too hard against each other. The first board is placed at a distance of 3-5 mm from the wall, the last one is adjusted to size. You may have to adjust the last board and saw it lengthwise.


To insulate the floor we use bars and basalt insulation. To insulate the floor, it is necessary to build something like a frame in the form of a lattice of 50 by 50 mm beams. You will place insulation 50-60 mm thick into the cells of this frame. Insulation in our case comes from slabs, but if you don’t like it, you can insulate it with soft wool, just keep in mind that for the same soundproofing effect as from slabs, you will need twice as much soft wool. For example, if you open up a wooden floor in a Soviet apartment, you will see a similar lattice, and in rare cases, even with insulation.

The bars must be distributed in increments equal to: the width of the OSB board divided by two, that is, approximately 620-630 mm. The bars are also laid across; here you determine the step at your discretion.

Try to place all the bars in horizontal level. This can be achieved using small wooden wedges. It won't be difficult to make the wedges yourself.
Important! We nail the bars to the boards, as in the previous case.
We lay the insulation in small rectangles, cutting out right size stationery knife.
Important! When working with insulation, be sure to wear goggles and a mask.

A small digression.
There is another rather good way to insulate the floor. Although it is used primarily for insulating the floor of the second floor, it is also suitable for the first floor. Here, the insulation is placed in the space between the joists. To keep the insulation in place, boards 80-100 cm long are nailed to the joists from below; you must agree, this is not very convenient. Moreover, you should try to nail the boards tightly to each other so that the insulation does not crumble over time and does not fall to the ground inside the foundation. However, in this case, you can lay the insulation in a thicker layer, and the floor will be better insulated as a result. With this method of insulation, the installation of bars 50 by 50 mm will not be necessary.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result independently or with the assistance of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in a wooden house is important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for self-execution work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

Floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And to ensure comfortable conditions residence, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor “pie”.

The main element building structure for the floor is the strapping. For permanent buildings, it is usually made of powerful timber with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced with several boards securely connected to each other. Plank strapping is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses that the timber experiences.

Products used for strapping must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden parts do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they last for many years. If there is no oil, use special means, available in every hardware store.

To extend the service life of the harness, you need to lay waterproofing on the foundation. Usually this is roofing material folded in two layers.

The strapping requires installation of logs. These are wide, powerful boards that need to be strengthened on the edge. They, just like the harness, need to be treated with an antiseptic. The joists must first be carefully inspected and cracks, if any, must be repaired. It is better to replace boards with major flaws with better ones.

In light buildings it is allowed to make prefabricated logs. For fastening components use special staples or pins. The docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. To do this, the cross-section of the lags is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, on which a membrane is laid, preventing the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the home owners. Any available options can serve as a finished floor, including water-heated floors.

Structure of the structure

It’s not enough to build a wooden house; you need to properly install utilities, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

Abundance engineering structures indoors it does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the joists allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or ground floor can be installed under the subfloor electric water heater, or you can equip a gas boiler room. The location of the water heater under the floor is especially important for a small shower.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect it from moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both when equipping the first floor and the second. It fits under mineral insulation and above him. Non-woven fabric Available in narrow rolls. When laying, individual parts should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the joists, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps OSB plates are best suited for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good as a base for wood flooring, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you shouldn’t use OSB as a topcoat.

For laying on joists installed in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent logs is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards made by pressing using a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot or dry out. Floors laid according to OSB sheets, do not creak when walking.

Installation is done quickly because:

• does not require special skills;
• sheets have correct geometric shape, and no time is wasted on adjustment;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Types of floors

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of covering. There are two options: concrete ( reinforced concrete slab) or wooden. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house you can equip any of modern options flooring: laminate, parquet, cork, tile and others.

Concrete floors are formed by pouring screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, this takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce construction costs finishing floors A well-made screed can serve as a basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

There is a high risk of cracking in a new home. cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. There will be no serious damage, but heat loss is possible. Prevent Negative consequences possible by installing reliable insulation.

Concrete floor possible after calculations have been made. As a rule, such a decision is made if there is capital structure strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions for residents: adults and children. Natural material owners are increasingly using country houses, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

It is easy to cover a plank floor with boards on both sides. Secure fastening allows you to equip a “pie” of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made in the form of a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or a structure is simply being erected on brick pillars, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls by equipping them ventilation holes. Lack of air access to the underground will lead to rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the ceiling must be correctly calculated. A wood supply of 10-15 percent would also be useful.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with anti-rot and fungal agents.

Rough double-layer floors are made where the base is laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay a floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to the minimum, you can compact the earth, lay out a bed of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In a light country house used for seasonal stays, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to place brick pillars around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a uniform height (to the same horizon). Each support must be covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. On waterproofing layer You need to put a 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic.

This entire structure is closed by beams, along which logs are placed with constant horizontal adjustments. The structure is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the joists if the production is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor requires the installation of insulation, hydro- and vapor barriers, and, if necessary, other components between the rough and finished floors.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room holistic.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, and are resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards made from such trees have beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. Floor purple can be done if you use rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when you buy very expensive zebrawood wood.

Boards made from coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors the room is filled with substances useful to humans and pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and linden boards are required. They do not emit resin and are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be selected taking into account the distance between adjacent joists. At a distance of 600 – 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, preference should be given to boards with a thickness of 50 mm. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to install the floors yourself, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process may affect the quality of wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take boards that are not wide and not too long.

One way to install a floor is to lay it staggered; in this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, the parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally secured with self-tapping screws, as is the case with massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight form of installation, a diagonal one is used. Particularly elegant in spacious room It looks like it is laid at an angle of 45° to the wall.

Arrangement of the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by showing persistence, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If the floor needs to be re-laid, the worn material is removed. finishing coat, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul Wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation, are replaced on floors.

If the joists are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, plywood coated with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finishing coating is done with sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The fastening points must be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a pitch of about 150 mm. The screw caps should be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting depressions should be filled with putty. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be negatively affected. And after some time, traces of poorly performed work will appear on it.