It is difficult to imagine a comfortable home without a bath.

There was a time when bathtubs were even made from wood, and then from marble, copper, cast iron, silver and gold.

A steel bathtub is considered the most durable and has its advantages:

• light weight (easy to transport and install);
• warms up quickly because it has a metal base;
• cheaper than cast iron or acrylic;
• The enamel coating is durable.

The most serious disadvantages are:

• cannot retain heat for a long time;
• not stable enough;
• When filled with water it creates a lot of noise.

Disadvantages can be easily eliminated if you use polyurethane foam for this. Before installing the bath, it is enough to turn it upside down, moisten it with water and foam - it looks like a thermos.

After the foam has dried, cut off the excess with a knife. To make a steel bathtub more stable, the legs can be supplemented with a brick cushion (or used instead of legs).

Preparing the premises

It is better that the bathtub is installed on metal supports, having adjustable tips and self-adhesive pads. This method is more reliable and safe when installing a bathtub.

In the corners of the bath, you can use timber supports, attaching them to the wall. This technique will strengthen the bathtub, it will become more stable in case of load on the corners.

Before installing the bathtub, first clean the site of intended installation:

• plumbing fixtures are removed;
• the siphon is disconnected from the sewer (the hole is closed with a plastic cover);
• cleaned up old bath(if its legs were cemented, then they are removed from the cement layer);
• the walls are aligned at right angles.

Installation steps

Bathtub installation includes several steps:

• the bathtub is turned upside down and supports are attached to it;
• when installing a bathtub, all operations must be performed carefully so as not to damage the enamel;
• when the bathtub is in place, it must be leveled by adjusting the legs;
• joints are sealed polyurethane foam;
• additional supports are installed (beam the right size attached to the wall);
• Using fasteners, a plastic panel is installed to cover the bathtub.

Possible methods

Install steel bath You can do it yourself using two methods:

• installation on legs;
• installation using brickwork.

Installing a steel clawfoot bathtub It should be remembered that over time the supports may weaken and the service life of the bath will be shortened. In this case, hooks are used (they are usually used when installing water heaters) and a brick cushion is placed under the bottom of the bathtub.

The bathtub is placed on legs and leveled. The outline of the bathtub is marked on the walls and the bathtub is removed.

In the marked places, holes are drilled into which the hooks are screwed (pointed to the side or down).

The bathtub is returned to its place, leveled again and the hooks are tightened - the bathtub is pressed against the walls.

When using a brick pad A series of bricks are placed under the bottom of the bathtub (they can be fastened together with polyurethane foam, and to prevent the foam from “lifting” the bathtub upward, it is better to fill it with water).

When installing a bathtub using brickwork, you need skills in working with such masonry. Columns are laid out of brick on which the bathtub will rest. You also need to build a brick pillow under the bottom of the bath.

The main difficulty that people who install a steel bathtub themselves may encounter: the cushion and posts must be at a certain height from the floor. To do this, the columns, if they are low, can be plastered with mortar.

Required tools and materials

To install a steel bathtub yourself, you will need the following tools:

• the rule (a rigid bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub) is required to level the bathtub;
• fork wrench (to tighten release parts);
• rubber hammer (for shrinking the legs when assembling the bathtub);
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• spanners;
• building level;
• polyurethane foam;
• sealant;
• siphon;
• fastening elements.

Step-by-step instruction

After the installation site has been prepared steel bath, you need to follow these steps:

How to avoid mistakes during installation?

There are rules that you need to know about when installing a steel bathtub with your own hands:

• Only the upper edge is leveled, since the design provides for an inclination towards the drain;
• do not use corrugation when connecting the siphon to the sewer;
• do not overtighten the screws attaching the legs to the bathtub (tighten them only by hand, otherwise the enamel may chip);
• do not use rubber pads under the legs or bottom of the bathtub (the bathtub may spring back on them and a crack will form between the wall and the bathtub);
• a steel bath requires grounding;
• Usually the bathtub needs to be raised higher than the factory adjustment screws allow. You cannot use stands made of rubber or wood for these purposes (the former will spring, the latter will dry out);
• leave access to the bathtub piping (to clean the siphon).

Watch the video on how to install a bathtub yourself and what you need to consider:

Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the “face” of every person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his neatness. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is the bathtub, which is directly used for taking hygiene procedures.

It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bathtub correctly by holding renovation work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.

So, let's look at how modern plumbing fixtures made of different materials.

Current bath installation methods

The method of installing a bathtub directly depends on its location. So how do you secure a bathtub?

1. Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods for angular plumbing installations. Often also used when installing a bowl in a prepared niche.
2. Fastening to the floor. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are the following methods for mounting the container:

• With adjustable or non-adjustable legs. Perfect option for securing cast iron or steel bathtubs, which are often supplied with such supports.
• On brickwork. Universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
• On adjustable feet or metal structures. This option is often used for installing acrylic plumbing fixtures.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly secure a bathtub.

Features of installing a steel bath

A steel bathtub is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of these products. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.

When choosing such plumbing equipment, remember that it is characterized by heavy weight. It significantly complicates installation and places special demands on the stability and strength of fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. Having these supports makes installation much easier. It is necessary to properly secure the supports, which often come with plumbing fixtures. The bath is ready for installation.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bathtub in this case?

Features of installing a steel bathtub on brickwork

The masonry provides good rigidity compared to using standard legs.

• So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We compare its parameters with dimensions seat.
• Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to installation corner baths.
• We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
• We connect the siphon correctly.
• Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, level the container by changing the angle of the spacers.

• The brickwork must initially be laid under the part of the bathtub where the legs of the structure were to be located.
• The last row of masonry must be placed close to the wall of the bathtub. For this purpose, pieces of brick are used.
• We leave the masonry to dry for several days. Then we check the struts and the stability of the structure.
• Along the perimeter of the brick bathtub we lay a screen right under the rim.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way bathroom fixtures.

Do you need a screen?

You can also cover the brick screen with tiles to match the walls.

Remember that the screen will serve more than just a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to ensure that the masonry is adjacent to its lower part along the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.

This method of installing a bathroom is only relevant for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for acrylic bowl.

Attaching the bathtub to the wall and floor

Installation metal structure for brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bathtub to the wall and to the floor?

The metal bath must be installed on a standard supporting structure.

It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the previously assumed size. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container with a side height of 60 cm, and a bathtub with inverted legs reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem can be easily solved by cutting required thickness pieces of tiles. Their glued elements at the location of the legs will allow you to securely fasten the bathtub.

Afterwards, you need to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install the metal profile according to the markings made earlier.

We seal the fasteners along the wall with silicone. To do this, apply silicone sealant in the upper part of the profile, retreating 1-2 mm.

We move it to the wall so that its supports are in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tile, you need to install the bathtub no sooner than after 24 hours. After all, the silicone must completely polymerize.

We sorted out the metal bathtub. How to secure it acrylic bath which is particularly popular today?

Installing an acrylic corner bathtub on supports

Acrylic bathtubs are particularly popular today. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bathtub? To the wall or on standard supports?

Installation of a bathtub made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:

• The product is removed from the packaging.
• It is necessary to lay a blanket or carpet on the floor, which will protect glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
• We measure the sides of the bathtub and compare them with the dimensions of the seat. A corner bath should always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
• We prepare all the components for making the bathtub frame.
• We lay out all the components separately. This will make it easier to reach them. So how do you secure the legs of a bathtub?
• Carefully insert plugs into the ends of the legs. We snap them well.
• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (which have threads inside them).

• Screw 2 locknuts onto the studs.
• We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
• The profile has a hole in the insert. The adjusting leg pin is screwed into it.
• The first locknut must be screwed tightly to the profile, the second - to the leg. This way the structure will be not only stable, but also reliable.
• We install the profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws, which are included in the kit.
• When assembling the second profile, you need to prepare long and short pins.
• The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts using the same principle as the legs.
• But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
• We install the plastic legs on both sides on a longer screwed-in pin. Thus, one leg of the bowl should rest on the floor, and the other should rest on the side of the acrylic container.
• After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. Please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
• We can assume that the acrylic bathtub is ready. The assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
• Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by loosening the nuts on the supports.

Reinforced fastening of an acrylic bathtub

The above methods for securing a bathtub are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be secured in another way. After all long-term operation bathtubs on supports shows that this installation method has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crunches in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bathtub is shaking? How to secure it correctly?

This minor drawback is not critical, but it is advisable to eliminate it. To do this, you need to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.

When you decide to install the bathtub on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be spaced at a distance of 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.

This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum of financial costs, because you only need to purchase a bottle of foam and a few bricks.

Features of manufacturing the reinforced fastener design

So, installation work consists of performing sequential actions:

• Raise the bathtub to its maximum height using the adjusting supports.
• We blow strips of polyurethane foam along the perimeter of the future brick laying.
• We apply foam to the brick and lay it on the floor.
• We lower the bowl onto the foam using adjustable supports, which we secure with nuts.
• After 24 hours you can use the plumbing.

For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.

Remember that when you secure an object, you significantly complicate the repair and installation work as a whole. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bathtub to its legs?

Stack of water

Correct device drainage of water is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon tubes and drain must be located above the level sewer pipe.

A large height difference will allow water to drain faster. Thanks to the fast flow, the liquid can automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to do repairs and preventive inspections less often.

Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be within optimal value.

Choosing a hose in a siphon

Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth plastic pipes. Of course, it’s easier to work with them, because you don’t need to observe dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. If the siphon is frequently disassembled, rubber seals and even threaded connections may suffer. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires replacement of the entire device.

And if the bathtub is attached to the floor, then all repair work is extremely difficult. Experts recommend purchasing siphons in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary bend of the tube. This way the smell will not enter the room, and blockages will be much less common. And if they occur, there is no need to disassemble the structure; it is enough to use a regular plunger.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the product.

In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into several millimeters. Therefore, in this case, a wedge-shaped gap often forms between the flat wall and the side of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide it with silicone sealant, because the error will be too visible. In this case, use ceramic or plastic special skirting boards, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest vibration. It is not recommended to re-glue them.

Conclusion

Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has a little experience in construction industry. Now you know how to fix a bathtub to the wall without difficulty.

Nowadays it is impossible to imagine a modern bathroom that is not equipped with a bathtub. Basically, builders install and fix the bathtub, but over time, the plumbing fails, loses its attractiveness, or becomes deformed. In this case, it becomes necessary to install the bath yourself to replace the old product. In our article we will look at how to fix a bathtub on legs if it is on tiled floor, and other options for its installation.

Choosing a bath

A bathtub is a large-volume sanitary container used for washing, washing and other household needs. More recently, shower cabins tried to displace this device, but due to less functionality they were defeated.

There are 3 types of baths:

• Cast iron. This is a classic option that retains heat perfectly and is highly durable. The disadvantage of this product is its heavy weight, since a bathtub made of this material weighs about 80-150 kg. With a large mass, transportation and installation of the product becomes difficult. Also, cast iron containers have a high price and they are limited in the set standard sizes and forms.
• Steel. A product made of steel can retain heat for much less time, but at the same time, its weight is 3-5 times less than cast iron. Mostly steel bathtubs weigh up to 30 kg. The main disadvantage of these models is the large noise that occurs when a stream of water falls. It is very difficult to install a steel bathtub on the floor without it wobbling or playing. However, these models are widely used due to their affordable price, which is 3 times lower than for cast iron products.
• Acrylic. Acrylic from which it is produced modern baths, is durable polymer material. Products made from it are able to satisfactorily retain heat, and they can be purchased at a very affordable price. In addition, such products have a beautiful appearance. Acrylic containers are easy to install because they are not heavy. A significant disadvantage is low strength, which is inferior to cast iron and steel. Therefore, the significant weight of a person can break an acrylic product.

Important! To ensure that the bathtub does not wobble and stands level after installation, you should choose the correct size of the product. The length of the container corresponds to the distance between the walls minus 4-5 cm. When purchasing a bathtub, you need to choose models that are as close as possible to the calculated dimensions. This requirement helps prevent possible gaps between the bathtub and the walls that may appear after installation is completed. In addition, with the right choice of container, the process of attaching the product to the wall and floor of the room is much easier.

Features of installation of various bathtubs

Many people ask the question: how to fix the bathtub yourself so that it does not wobble or play? When installing a sanitary container, you need to remember some nuances, taking into account which you can independently cope with the task.

To do this, you should take into account the mounting features various types baths:

• The most difficult part of fixing a cast iron bathtub is bringing this product weighing about 100 kg into the room and installing it on the floor. To install this container, 4 supports are required, supplied with the selected product. A cast iron bathtub is installed on the floor of the room using legs, which are attached to the bottom of the product with special bolts or wedges. To distribute the load from the weight of the bathroom, a metal sheet is laid on the floor of the room.
• A steel container is much more difficult to install than a cast iron product. Since it has less weight, very often illiterate installation leads to its swaying and sliding. To securely fasten the steel product, it is required that the bathtub adjoins 3 walls as closely as possible. You can install the container on a brick podium or brick supports that come with the bathtub.
• Acrylic products are secured to a podium or adjustable supports to prevent the container from rocking, swaying or sliding. The container must be adjacent to 3 walls of the room. Since acrylic models have low mechanical strength, then it is recommended to build a frame around them, which will give the product additional rigidity and hide the communication elements.

Important! When renovating a bathroom, only after laying ceramic tiles can the product be installed. In order to provide access to the floor under the container, the product must be lifted and then installed on wooden blocks or bricks.

Basic rules for installing a bathtub

When purchasing a bathtub, you should definitely pay attention to the fastening system with which it will be equipped. After purchasing the product, you must carefully read the instructions and become familiar with the installation method recommended for this model.

How to fix a steel bathtub so that it does not swing? Basically, the product installation process is as follows:

1. Before fixing the steel bathtub, we prepare the site for installation. If you intend to perform Finishing work ceramic tiles, then we lay tiles on the walls and floor of the room.
2. We install the bathtub on its side, then carefully place it on the floor, since this position facilitates convenient connection of the overflow and drain pipes.
3. Using a sealant or seal, as well as changing the position of the product, we connect the floor siphon with plastic pipes.
4. We screw or glue the legs to the bottom of the sanitary container, while adjusting the height of the supports.
5. We place the product in such a way that it is possible to connect the siphon to the sewer system.
6. Under the bottom we build a podium from bricks or some other materials. We install a frame that would allow us to hide the pipes behind a decorative screen.
7. We seal the joints between the walls and the product using a sealant, moisture-resistant solution or plastic corner.
8. After installation is complete experienced specialists check the reliability and quality of fastening. To do this, fill the product with water and check that the drain is working correctly. We make sure that the product does not swing or wobble.

Fastening with polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is used to strengthen the product and simultaneously fix it on the floor and walls of the room. Mounting a bathtub to the wall using mounting foam is done as follows:

1. We adjust the sanitary container in place and height using adjustable legs so that there is a gap of about 0.5-1.5 cm near the walls.
2. After this, fill the bath to the brim with water.
3. Using polyurethane foam, we seal the gaps between the body of the sanitary container and the walls of the room, as well as between the legs of the product and the floor.

Important! Sealing foam has the property of expanding when it dries, so it must be used in strictly dosed order. Otherwise, unwanted deformations of the structure occur, which reduce the reliability of its fixation.

Application of brick frame

Usually, brick frame used in situations where you secure the product without using legs, while ensuring uniform distribution of the load along the entire perimeter of the support. This installation method allows you to use the option of laying out the frame both across the bathroom and along the room.

Important! When positioned transversely, the product must rest directly on the brick, which implies additional fastening of the frame to the walls using corners made of metal - aluminum or steel. We fix the pre-prepared corners to the wall using dowels. With this option, the free edges of the container have additional support, and when pressed it does not wobble.

How to fix a steel bathtub using a brick frame:

• We unpack the purchased product and conduct a thorough analysis of the dimensions of the product and the room.
• We install the bathtub on spacer bars placed close to the wrong side of the sides.

Important! When installing a bowl in a niche, it is necessary to maintain the required distance between the sides of the plumbing fixtures and the wall on each side, which corresponds to 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply when installing corner products.

• Using a spirit level, we check the position of the product relative to the horizon. If necessary, change the angle of installation of the spacers, thus leveling the installation of the bowl.
• We lay out brickwork in the intended places for installing the legs.
• We install the last row of brickwork close to the wall of the container, using pieces of brick.
• When the masonry has dried, remove the spacers, and then check the stability of the bowl using its own weight.
• Using brick, we lay out the screen along the perimeter of all plumbing fixtures right under the edge.

Attention! In this case, the creation of a screen serves not only as a decorative decoration, but also provides additional rigidity to the structure. If the strength of the lower supports is insufficient, laying brickwork to the lower segment of the side along the entire perimeter of the bowl prevents distortions of the plumbing.

When performing such work, be sure to provide a small inspection hole that would allow free access to the siphon. As a finish to cover the hole, use a small piece of drywall or install a small plastic door. If you are going to use ceramic tiles for wall decoration, then you can use a ready-made screen that serves as the front panel of such a base.

Installation on a metal frame

This installation method is mainly used when installing acrylic bowls, which are already equipped with a ready-made steel frame. In the absence of such an accessory steel frame can be purchased separately or created independently.

How to mount an acrylic bathtub to a wall using a metal frame:

• When installing such a product, we attach the frame guide strips to the bottom of the product using self-tapping screws.

Important! Fastening must be done in special places that are thickened.

• We install the included legs on the fixed guides, using a bolted connection.
• Lower the bowl into place.
• We mark the points of contact of the product with the walls of the bathtub room.
• In these places we install special strips that provide additional support.

Important! A small gap should be left between the bar and the side - about 2-4 mm, which is taken into account when the product expands after the bowl has been filled with hot water.

Installation of an acrylic corner bathtub on standard supports

To secure a corner acrylic bathtub on legs if it is on a tiled floor using standard supports:

• We remove the purchased acrylic container from packaging.
• To prevent scratches on the bathroom floor, spread a blanket and turn a sanitary container onto it.
• We take measurements of the sides of the product and compare them with the dimensions of the installation location.

Important! For quick and high-quality installation of a corner product, it is necessary to check the converging walls of the seat, the angle between which must be right. Otherwise, a gap appears that is very difficult to cover.

• Let's unpack the components needed to make the frame.
• We use plugs for the ends of the legs.
• We screw in the studs onto which we screw the locknuts.
• We assemble the profile to create the frame.
• We screw the adjusting leg pin into the profile hole. We screw one locknut tightly against the profile, and screw the other one towards the leg for stability and strength of the structure.
• We install the prepared profiles on the product and fasten them with the screws included in the kit.
• To assemble the second profile, we prepare a short and a longer pin. Using a locknut, screw in the short stud.
• We screw in a long pin from the protruding side of the product's side.
• We install plastic legs on both sides of the screwed-in long pin so that one leg can rest against the acrylic side of the product, and the other, respectively, against the floor.
• We secure the installed legs with nuts.

Important! After installing the support legs on the profile, you need to check that the plugs are located at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the support legs, while measuring the distance from the profile plane to the surface of the plugs.

• We turn the assembled structure over and install it in the required place.
• By applying a level to the sides, we check the position of the sanitary container.
• If necessary, align the legs and tighten the locknuts again.

Reinforced fastening of acrylic bathtubs

Strengthening an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs has one significant drawback, which is that in the area formed between the fixed profiles, the bowl crunches under the weight of a person.

To make reinforced fasteners for an acrylic bathtub:

• We select standard brick blocks with a length of 625 mm and a thickness of 250 mm.
• Using the adjusting supports, raise the container to the maximum height.
• We blow foam around the perimeter of the product, on the surface of which we install blocks.

Important! In order for the foam to interact better with the blocks and floor screed, it is necessary to moisten the mounting surfaces with water from a spray bottle.

• We lower the bowl onto the foam and, using nuts, fix the supports.
• After a day, the plumbing stops crunching and becomes motionless.

This method is very simple, since you only need to purchase a bottle of foam and a few bricks.

Inserting a bathtub into a niche

Small apartments often create installation difficulties sanitary product to the place designated for it. As a result, the installation of the bowl is complicated, but on the other hand, it provides the possibility of rigid and reliable fixation of the container in the niche of the room.

How to secure cast iron bath to the floor? To rigidly fasten the product on each side of the wall, it is necessary to prepare grooves having the thickness of the edge of the bowl. For this purpose, a hammer drill or grinder is used. The bowl flaps are inserted into the prepared grooves with a slight “tightness”. The absence of complete play guarantees the most rigid fixation.

Important! If the legs do not have the required rigidity, the bowl can be further strengthened by using special transverse profiles that serve as supports for the lapels of the product.

How to seal a large gap near a wall?

Sometimes during the installation of the container there remains a large gap between the wall and the end, which does not allow for rigid fixation of the bowl. In this case, you can this disadvantage turn it into an advantage by creating a framework. As a result, a shelf appears between the wall and the bathtub, which can be used to store shampoos, powder and other accessories.

Let's look at some ways to eliminate a large gap:

• We make a frame from profiles that can be sheathed with moisture-resistant material such as plasterboard.
• We create a hatch to have access to the plumbing.
• We fix the block to the wall and build a shelf, one side of which is located on the block, the other is on the product or frame.

Important! When designing a shelf, it is necessary to create it with a slope so that there is no accumulation of water. To avoid water stagnation, plumbing fixtures should be installed with a slope towards the drain.

Video material

In principle, any installation work can be done by a home handyman if he takes the work ahead responsibly and scrupulously. In this article, we have offered you several options on how to secure a bathtub on legs so that it does not wobble. different models plumbers. We hope, using our step by step instructions, you managed to do everything efficiently and reliably.

The bathroom is the face of every home, the appearance of which speaks of the wealth, thriftiness and style of the homeowners. The central place in the bathroom is occupied by the bathtub, which is used for hygiene procedures or washing. Selecting and installing a washing container is the most important stage of renovation in this room. To save money on calls professional master, you can install the container yourself. In this article we will tell you how to secure a bathtub so that it does not wobble, but stands steadily.

Choosing a bath

A bathtub is a large-volume sanitary container that is used for washing, laundry and other household needs. Some time ago, they tried to displace shower stalls with this device, however, they were defeated due to their lower functionality. Bathtubs are made from materials that can withstand the weight of water and the person using it, so that it retains heat for a long time, and maintains its appearance and seal when in contact with water.

They produce 3 types of sanitary containers:

Cast iron. A cast iron bathtub is a classic option that retains heat well and is highly durable. The disadvantage of cast iron models is heavy weight, a bathtub made of this metal weighs 80-150 kg. The high weight complicates transportation and installation. In addition, cast iron containers are expensive and have a limited range of standard shapes and sizes.

Note! To ensure that the bathtub stands level after installation and does not wobble, you need to choose the right container size. The length of the bathtub should correspond to the distance between the walls minus 3-5 cm. When deciding which bathtub to choose, give preference to models that best match the calculated dimensions, so that after installation is completed there are no gaps between it and the walls through which water can penetrate. Right choice The size of the container will make it much easier to attach the bath to the wall and floor of the room.

Installation features

The question of how to fix the bathtub so that it does not play or wobble worries most homeowners if they are renovating the bathroom with their own hands. The process of installing a sanitary container for washing has its own nuances and tricks, but you can cope with this task on your own, taking into account the mounting features various types baths:

The most difficult part of installing a cast iron bathtub is bringing this container, weighing more than 100 kg, into the room and installing it on the floor. For installation you will need 4 supports, which are supplied with the selected model. A cast iron bathtub is installed on the bathroom floor using legs secured to the bottom of the container with special wedges or bolts. To distribute the load from the weight of the bathroom, a metal sheet is laid on the floor.

Important! When renovating a bathroom, the bathtub is installed in place only after the floor has been finished with ceramic tiles. To provide access to the floor under the bathtub, the container is raised and then placed on bricks or wooden blocks.

Installation Rules

When purchasing a bathtub, be sure to pay attention to the mounting system it comes with. After purchasing a sanitary container, carefully read the instructions and become familiar with the installation method recommended by the manufacturer for this model.

In most cases, the bathroom installation process looks like this:

• Before fixing the steel bathtub, it is necessary to prepare the installation site. If ceramic tiles are used as finishing, then you need to lay tiles on the floor and walls where the container is located.
• The bathtub is turned over on its side and then carefully placed on the floor, since in this position it is much more convenient to connect the drain and overflow pipe.
• Without changing the position of the sanitary container, the floor siphon is connected to plastic pipes using a sealant or sealant.
• The legs are screwed or glued to the bottom of the bathroom, adjusting the supports in height.
• The bathtub is placed in such a way that the siphon can be connected to the sewer system.
• If necessary, a podium made of bricks or other moisture-resistant materials is built under the bottom of the bathroom. They make a frame to hide the pipes behind a decorative screen.
• IN last resort you need to hermetically seal the joints between the walls and the sanitary container using sealant, moisture-resistant mortar or plastic corner.

After completing the installation, experienced craftsmen check the quality and reliability of the fastening. To do this, the sanitary container is completely filled with water to check whether the drain is working correctly, whether it is swinging or leaking.

Video instruction

Old style cast iron bathtubs are quite difficult to move. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are quite unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or move out of place with the slightest push, ruining the finish of the walls and floors. Let's talk about how to fix a bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.

Choose the right plumbing fixtures

The stability of the bathtub depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing fixture. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5–3 centimeters on each side. Under such conditions, it will be easier to secure the bowl to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably get in during use.

Features of steel bathtubs

Among all types of baths steel models The hardest thing to do is to keep it stationary. This is due to two features of their design:

• low weight of the bowl;
• lack of fastenings for legs.

On cast iron and acrylic models with outside bowls usually have special fasteners to which the legs can be securely screwed. Manufacturers of steel bathtubs have abandoned these parts. Since steel is a rather soft material, there is a high risk that during use the bathtub may bend under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.

Read: what wallpaper can be glued in the bathroom.

Legs for steel plumbing fixtures are usually a kind of trestles or supports. The bathtub is supposed to simply rest on them. Some leg models can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for more reliable fixation to the bottom of the bowl. But this doesn't improve the situation much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.

How to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't wobble

There are several ways to install a steel bathtub in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not suitable for everyone. Firstly, doing brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner can build a reliable stand with their own hands. And in this case, quite high demands are placed on the quality of the masonry, since it will be constantly exposed to moisture and serious weight.

Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, interfloor ceilings may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can result in a utility accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait a few days until masonry mortar will dry and acquire the strength necessary for installing plumbing fixtures. Therefore it is better to use more simple options fixing the bathtub.

Advice: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, make it not from brick, but from gas block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to install.

The simplest and most reliable methods of installing a steel bathtub include:

• fastening to walls using metal corners;
• installation on a metal profile frame;
• use of special fasteners.

Where does the installation of a bathtub begin?

Whatever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - installing a bathtub begins with fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on its legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After this, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of water drainage. As you know, the bathtub should be under small angle: only in this case the drain will work correctly.

Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. Using these marks, you will later install fasteners for the bathtub: steel or acrylic. After marking, turn off plumbing fixture from communications and take it out of the room.

Important! The final installation of a steel bathtub, regardless of the methods of its fastening, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely finished with tiles or other material.

Installation of steel bowl on corners

Enough reliable option fastening the bathtub - in addition to the legs, rest its sides on wide metal corners screwed to the walls. This method will suit you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently durable material and were leveled with plaster or tile adhesive. TO plasterboard structures It is better not to fasten the bathtub: they will not withstand such weight.

Important! Installation of corners should be done after finishing the walls of the room is completed.

You can hang the corners only on two walls, against which the short edges of the bowl will then rest, or on all three vertical surfaces, with which it will come into contact. To avoid damaging the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, you can drill through them directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill bit with a pobedit tip or a hammer drill.

The location for attaching the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bathtub will rest on them with its sides, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.

We advise you to learn about the features of toilets with a vertical outlet to the floor.

Installing a bathtub on a frame

If you plan to cover the space under the bowl with a decorative screen, The best way, how to strengthen a steel bathtub so that it does not wobble is to place it on metal carcass. The structure is made from UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor using dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to make a welded support structure from:

• metal corner;
• steel pipes of suitable diameter.

Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bathtub itself stands firmly on its legs.

Corner posts made of profiles are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The construction of the frame should be done after finishing the walls or, at least, after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of installation, the frame can be covered with plastic panels or plasterboard, which is then covered with tiles.

Important! When covering, do not forget to leave inspection hatch for access to communications located under the bathroom.

Using special fasteners

If the bathtub bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can limit yourself to attaching it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing walls In the future, the fasteners are hidden under tiles, which helps not only to improve the aesthetics of the room, but also to increase the reliability of fastening.

Reliable ways to attach a bathtub to the wall

When selling a bathtub, it includes legs or a more or less complex frame designed for its secure installation on the base. The design of any manufacturer is designed so that stability is not lost under the most unfavorable combination of loads - in the form of a full volume of water and a person sitting, standing on the bottom or climbing over the side.

With the advent of steel, and later acrylic bathtubs, many users of this plumbing equipment Doubts began to arise about the sufficient stability of the light structure. People reacted simply - instead of standard legs or a frame support structure, they began to build a brick bed or several supports, on which the body of a bathtub of any shape was installed. There was a need to secure light bath to Wall.

Bath stability

The stability of the bathtub in the vertical direction is beyond doubt with any design of standard legs - they will all withstand the weight of water and this is felt by users. The only understandable concern is the stability of the body in the horizontal direction - in fact, light steel and acrylic bathtubs can be thrown out of balance in this direction.

One of the typical products is a bracket designed for attaching a bathtub to a wall. You can see how securely the hooking of the curved edge of the side of the acrylic bathtub is secured to this bracket

Users' concerns are not unfounded. Even the smallest degree of freedom of movement in any direction is dangerous by violating the integrity of the sewer drain connection. In some cases - a violation of the tightness of the seal connecting the housing to the wall.

That is why, to ensure complete stability, you need to ensure that the bathtub is secured to the wall. In this case, the possibility of horizontal vibrations disappears. The bathtub becomes completely stable regardless of the force applied to it.

Attaching the bathtub body to the walls

In a bathroom, the bathtub can be located in four layout positions:

1. Island position - in the middle of the room.
2. Near one wall.
3. In a corner, in contact with two walls.
4. In a niche, close to the walls on three sides.

It is important to mount it to the wall when placing the bathtub with only one side to the wall, sometimes in a corner position. The body, pinched on three sides, is completely unshakable.

The only technical possibility of attaching a bathtub to a wall is based on the fact that its sides of any design are bent downwards. This bend is what needs to be kept from moving the bathtub. The complexity of this operation lies in the fact that the natural place where you need to secure the side to the wall is inaccessible - it is covered by the housing.

Any way to secure the bathtub to vertical plane is to pre-install on this plane such fastening elements that will securely engage with the side bent downwards - when this side is lowered into place.

For such fasteners, you can use branded factory-made brackets, with the possibility of adjustment and rubber gaskets. Home master can install homemade profile from a steel angle - such a fastening can be much more reliable than a branded one. You can even use L-shaped dowel fastenings. You can make rubber gaskets yourself - the fastening will be more reliable.

The height of the bathtub from the floor, there is also a standard for this parameter - read about it in our material.

How to select and install hot tub, you can read in this article.

Wall mounting technology

Any fastener must provide several important conditions for reliable and durable operation:

• strong retention in the wall;
• The main retaining element of the fastener, bent upward, should have a slight downward approach to the wall. This is necessary so that the side of the bathtub, put on such fasteners, goes down during installation, and is pressed close to the wall;
• must be ensured high accuracy marking and installation of all components of such a system.

After determining the level of the lower edge of the bathtub, mark it on the wall with a line. Fasteners - staples, dowels or corners must be secured so that the side of the bathtub engages with them and the canvas is pressed against the wall. It is necessary to attach the side so that it cannot be moved by hand under the strongest impact.

Here is an approximate sequence of actions for installing a bathtub and attaching it to the wall:

1. You must first completely assemble the entire structure of the bathtub including the legs and support frame. The adjusting screws of the legs should be positioned in the middle position.
2. Using the assembled bathtub, the level of the side on the wall is marked and the selected fasteners are installed. Before making such markings, you need to put the bathtub in place and find out the features of its horizontal adjustment.
3. The bathtub complex with the support part is carefully lowered from top to bottom so that the side engages with the fasteners.
4. The adjusting screws are used to finally level the bathtub body.

When the bath has taken its position, you can connect utility networks, and after that - lay out brick supports that will ensure the complete inviolability of this structure.

The difficulty of installing brick supports when installed bathtub is compensated by the fact that the master will not be able to place these supports where it would interfere with connecting the bathtub - all connections have already been made and are in plain sight. The brick supports do not extend up to the bathtub body by 10-20 m and this gap is filled with polyurethane foam, having first filled the bathtub with water.

However, you can secure the bathtub using another sequence of actions. The main thing is to make sure that the invisible downward-curved edge of the bathtub side is securely engaged with the fasteners.

Bathtub installation practice has shown that homemade devices fasteners and supports made of brick, concrete, and designer steel structures most often surpass in reliability the standard structures of the most famous manufacturers. Thoughtful rationalization of this type allows you to consider the bathtub absolutely reliable, without worrying about its stability and even operate it in any mode.

How to strengthen a bathtub so it doesn't wobble

• 1 Methods of fixing bathtubs
• 2 Polyurethane foam
• 3 Application of a brick frame
• 4 Installation on a metal frame
• 5 Inserting a bathtub into a niche
• 6 Videos

When carrying out renovations in an apartment with a complete replacement of plumbing, its owners quite often have to deal with the problem of securely fastening the equipment installed in the bathroom. This is especially true for the work procedures for installing a new bathroom, the specific installation of which is determined by many factors, including the material of the product and its texture. Thus, a traditional cast-iron bathtub, which is distinguished by its considerable weight, is best installed according to a long-proven method, which involves its reliable support on the height-adjustable legs included in the kit.

For lighter acrylic bathtubs, for example, additional fastening will be required to ensure its reliable fixation and uniform distribution of loads throughout the body. In our article we will consider in detail the installation features of each of the samples of this plumbing product.

Methods of fixing bathtubs

Legs for steel bathtub

For anyone who wants to figure out how to strengthen a bathtub so that it doesn’t wobble, we advise you, first of all, to decide on the material from which it is made, since this largely determines the method of its installation.

When choosing a product, you most often encounter the following options:

For each of the samples of these products, a special, only suitable method of fastening must be used, which also takes into account the peculiarities of the relief of the walls of the bathroom itself.

Legs for acrylic bathtub

Cast iron bathtubs are sufficiently stable due to their significant mass, so their installation is permissible anywhere in the room. Typically, such bathtubs are installed on standard legs that are included in the delivery of the product and are securely fixed to its body using special steel wedges or bolts. As additional fastening a pre-laid brick base or corners fixed to the wall can be used (in the case of a brick base, its body may not be located close to the walls).

It is best to place a steel bathtub on several support points, so it should be located directly against the wall. Since the legs included in its kit do not provide the required reliability of fixation, a special brick podium is often used to increase the stability of the product.

The following techniques can be used to secure a steel bath:

• the use of polyurethane foam, which seals the junction with the wall and at the same time strengthens the contact area;
• installation on special walls metal profiles, providing additional support;
• and finally, a regular wall insert.

To securely fasten and ensure uniform distribution of loads, it is best to install an acrylic bathtub on the same brick podium or use a special metal frame for these purposes.

Let's consider each of the methods of attaching bathtubs discussed in this chapter in more detail.

Polyurethane foam

Using polyurethane foam

Using polyurethane foam to fix a bathtub is the simplest and most affordable method of simultaneously fixing it to the floor and walls. When implementing this method, the bathtub is first adjusted in place and height using adjustable legs so that there is a gap of about 0.75–1.5 cm at the walls, and then it is filled to the brim with water.

After this, you can begin to seal the gaps between the bathtub body and the adjacent walls of the room, as well as between its legs and the floor using polyurethane foam.

Sealing foam tends to expand when it dries, so its use must be strictly dosed. Otherwise, unwanted deformations of the structure are possible, reducing the reliability of its fixation. Despite the fact that the “setting” time of the polyurethane foam is about 12–35 hours, work on finishing the walls can begin in about 6 hours.

Application of brick frame

Using a brick frame

A brick frame is most often used in cases where you decide to fix the bathtub without the help of legs and ensure even distribution of loads along the entire perimeter of the support. With this installation method, it is possible to lay out the frame both along the bathroom and across it.

In the case of a transverse arrangement, the bathtub must rest directly on the brick, which will require additional fastening of the frame to the walls using metal corners (steel or aluminum). In this case, the pre-prepared corners are fixed with dowels on the wall so that the free edges of the bathtub have additional support and it does not wobble when pressed.

Installing a bathtub on bricks

When laid longitudinally, something like a trough is formed, into which the installed bathtub product is placed. The gap or cavity formed between the walls of such a base and the bathtub itself must be sealed with polyurethane foam, which also helps to increase the reliability of its fastening. If the front wall is laid out to the very top, it is possible to completely hide the body of the bathtub, thus preparing the base for subsequent tiling with ceramic tiles.

Brick screen

When performing this work, it is imperative to provide a small inspection hole necessary to provide access to the siphon. When finishing, this hole can be closed with a piece of drywall or by installing a small plastic door. In the case when you plan to decorate the walls with ceramic tiles, a ready-made screen can be used as the front panel of such a base.

Installation on a metal frame

This method of fixing bathtubs is mainly used when installing acrylic products, the kit of which, as a rule, already includes a ready-made steel frame (if it is not available, this accessory can always be purchased separately or made independently). During the installation of such a bathtub, the installation or guide strips of the frame are first attached to its bottom using self-tapping screws (note that they are fastened in places specially designated for this purpose, which have thickenings). And then the included legs are installed on the guides secured in this way using a bolted connection.

Additional support

After securing the legs, the bathtub will need to be put in place and the points where its body will touch the walls of the room must be marked, after which special strips will be installed at these points to provide additional support.

It is necessary to leave a small gap between the bar and the side (no more than 2–4 mm), taking into account the expansion of the bath after filling it with water.

Inserting a bathtub into a niche

Insert into a niche

IN small apartments very often a situation arises when a bathtub is placed with great difficulty in the space allocated for it, which, on the one hand, significantly complicates its installation, and on the other hand, provides the possibility of rigid and reliable fixation in a niche in the bathroom.

To insert and rigidly fasten the bathtub, you will need to prepare grooves in the wall on each of its sides according to the thickness of the edge of the product (for these purposes, you can use a hammer drill or grinder). The edges or flaps of the bathtub should be inserted into the grooves prepared with their help with a slight “tightness”, which guarantees maximum rigidity of the fastening due to the complete absence of play.

If the legs supplied in the kit are not sufficiently rigid, you can further strengthen the fastening of the bathtub by using special transverse profiles that serve as supports for its flaps.

Video

How to install a bathtub in a groove, see below:

steel bathtubs are still popular among consumers.

First of all, due to its durability. But in order for the font to serve you faithfully for many years, it must be installed correctly.

That's why we created the most detailed instructions for installing a steel bathtub. Where we collected all the expert advice. It will save you from installation errors. It will also show how it can be converted into advantages.

Have you already chosen a bath? If yes, you can begin preparing the room for its installation.

If you haven’t purchased a font yet, be sure to check out ours. This will help you avoid further problems with operation and installation, and will also allow you to purchase a truly high-quality model.

There are three types of installation of hot tubs:

1. tiled bathroom;
2. To bare walls followed by laying them out with tiles;
3. to walls lined to the planned level of bathtub installation.

Let's figure out which one is best to use and when.

First way convenient if you bought a high-quality massive steel bathtub that does not require additional fastening to the walls. Everything is simple and quick here - the font is placed on legs and moved towards the wall. It’s just important not to forget about sealing the joint.

Second way will allow you to make high-quality stops on the walls without compromising the integrity of the tiles. Plus, sealing the joint will be much easier, since the tiles will be laid out from the side. Therefore, water will definitely not get behind it. The disadvantages of this option include the fact that laying tiles will not be very convenient and quite dangerous for covering the bathtub.

If you decide to cladding the walls after installing the font, under no circumstances remove the factory film from the bowl. Better yet, line the bottom and sides of the bathtub with cardboard. This will keep the enamel coating intact.

And finally, third way- the most, in our opinion, optimal, but also the most difficult. After all, it is very important to measure everything accurately so that the font clearly fits in height into the space that is not tiled. With this option, you will not damage either the tiles or the coating of the bowl.

We've decided on the options. Now you need to clean the room well and prepare the tools. More on this below.

Tools

First you need to prepare your tools. For comfortable work you will need:

• level- to set the horizon line;
• roulette;
• construction marker— to perform markings;
• kit wrenches - for adjusting the legs;
• corner— for inspection of right angles;
• hammer drill- for drilling holes in the wall;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a metal font

Thermal and sound insulation

Despite everything, they have their drawbacks: high thermal conductivity (water cools down very quickly) and poor sound insulation (the sound of a filling bathtub can be heard even by neighbors). But both of these problems are quite easy to deal with. , which can be used to cover the walls and bottom of a steel bowl to improve its characteristics.

Especially for you, we have written detailed instructions about and.

How to assemble and install legs with your own hands?

After completing the insulation work, you can begin installing the legs. They are:

• universal— as a rule, such legs come with the cheapest models and are simply attached to an adhesive base;
• With bolted connection - such models are more solid, connected to the bottom using special bolts. There are different options for their execution, but the installation principle is the same for all.

STEP 1. A bolt is inserted into a special mounting location at the bottom of the bowl.

STEP 2. Then the support frame is placed on it. The structure is secured with a nut. To reduce the load on the bowl, it is important not to forget to lay rubber gaskets between the bottom and legs.

STEP 3. After this, you need to screw the legs themselves to the frame. There is no need to tighten them too much. Since the bathtub will still need to be adjusted to its level.

STEP 4. All that remains is to put on the plastic pads to reduce the pressure of the legs on the floor.

Drain and overflow

It is better to assemble the drain and overflow at the stage when the bathtub is still on the floor - it will be more convenient. This can be done according to standard instructions:

1. gaskets are inserted into elements (10), (7 - siphon), (4), and then they are connected to each other with plastic nuts (8);
2. gaskets (18), (15) are inserted into the corresponding overflow elements (17), (14), which are fastened with nuts;
3. The assembled drain and overflow are applied to the holes in the bathtub and bolted to the grates.

Level regulation

After installing all the elements, you can turn the font over on its legs and place it in its future location. Next, you need to set it evenly using building level. Place the level on each side of the bathtub, twisting the corresponding legs. After all the sides have been exposed, you can move on to the next stage.

If the length of the legs is not enough to achieve the required height and the question arises of how to lengthen them, everything is simple. You can put bricks under them, after securing them to the floor with mortar.

Many craftsmen try to create an additional slope by adjusting the legs. Allegedly, so that it would merge better water. This is mistake! For all models, this slope is provided technologically; the bathtub must be set strictly according to the level!

Additional supports, what to attach to the wall so that it doesn’t swing?

As mentioned above, a high-quality steel bathtub with walls at least 3 mm thick does not require additional supports, and it is not at all necessary to attach it to the wall. But if the font is not the most expensive or you want to insure against the fact that it will wobble -. Or screw additional supports for the sides to the wall. Let's figure out how best to do this.

STEP 1. First you need to measure the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the bathtub side (distance “A”). Then you need to move the bathtub and set this distance from the floor using a tape measure, drawing a side line along the entire perimeter.

STEP 2. As additional support, you can use a high-quality galvanized profile, steel corners or wooden beam, treated with special moisture-resistant impregnation. Using dowel nails, it is necessary to attach them to the wall along the line that we drew at the previous stage. They will take some of the load off the legs. The sides of the bathtub will rest on them.

Grounding an iron bowl

Next important stage is the grounding of the bowl. Metal baths must be grounded, since steel is an excellent conductor. And if a phase hits, for example, metal pipe- the result can be disastrous.

Bathtubs usually have a special grounding bolt with a special designation. It must be connected to the nearest point of the ground loop using copper wire. As a rule, in the dignity. The socket always has a grounding conductor, so you can connect the grounding wire to it.

Sealing

The final step is to seal the joint between the wall and the tile.

You can seal the seam between the iron bathtub and the tiles using silicone sealant. It must be applied along the entire perimeter of contact between the side and the wall.

Then moisten it with a spray bottle and remove the excess with your finger or a special spatula.

If they are additionally moistened, the work will be done even more accurately.

Screen

In order to rank. the unit looked more aesthetically pleasing; it was better to cover the space under the bathroom with a screen. You can make a blank screen from tiles. But in order to effectively use the space under the bathroom, a screen with sliding doors is best suited.

Useful videos

Assembling the legs

Installation

conclusions

As you understand from the article. Install metal bath It’s entirely possible to do it yourself. All you need is tools and a little perseverance. We hope our article was useful to you. On our website you can find other interesting materials.