The attic can serve not only as a place to store all the necessary and unnecessary things - you can arrange a bedroom, living room, nursery, office or even a bathroom there. To make the room under the roof itself comfortable, it is not enough to make repairs there and install powerful ones - you need to take care of high-quality insulation. - one of the coldest places in the house, because from above and on at least two sides it borders on the street, and the slopes of the roof here play the role of not only the ceiling, but also the walls. If you do not insulate the attic, then no heater will help create normal living conditions there, and all the heat will easily escape into the street. So what kind of insulation for the attic is better to choose than to insulate the walls and roof and what thickness should the insulation be?

No. 1. What kind of insulation should be used for an attic?

Not every thermal insulation material is suitable for insulating an attic, since this is a rather specific room. High-quality insulation should have the following characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity– the most obvious requirement. The material must reliably protect the room from the cold, keeping maximum warmth inside. In addition, it must withstand temperature changes, be durable, not crack or lose its integrity over time;
• noise insulation properties should be higher, the louder the roofing material is chosen. and, for example, during rain and hail they emit an unpleasant ringing sound, but high-quality ones can significantly reduce unpleasant sensations;
• moisture resistance. It is advisable to choose a material that is inert to moisture and does not accumulate it, because when water is absorbed, the weight of the insulation increases (therefore, the load on all structures increases) and its thermal insulation qualities decrease. If the material meets all other parameters, but is prone to moisture accumulation, then it is better to use hydro- and vapor barrier together with it - this will complicate installation, but will make the insulation more durable;
• fire resistance, especially if the roof frame is made of wood. For maximum flame resistance, even some low-flammability materials are treated with fire retardants - substances that prevent the spread of fire;
• resistance to fungus and rodents;
• environmental friendliness;
• efficiency;
• ease of installation will be a plus, but some very effective spray-type thermal insulators cannot be applied with your own hands.
  

To insulate the attic today they use mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, ecowool, polyurethane foam and some other heat insulators. It is not recommended to use a fill-in heat insulator (for example), since you will need quite a lot of it to achieve the required thermal insulation qualities. In the mountainous Caucasus regions, they sometimes even use wool– in terms of thermal insulation properties, it is close to mineral wool, but is susceptible to the negative effects of insects and rodents.

No. 2. Mineral wool for attic insulation

Glass wool

Glass wool is cheaper than stone wool, but is used infrequently due to inconvenience in work. Since the material is produced from glass waste, it contains small sharp particles that can easily injure the skin and respiratory tract. However, if you work with glass wool in compliance with all the rules of personal protection, you can insulate the attic inexpensively and efficiently. To the main benefits materials include:

No. 3. Foam plastic for attic insulation

No. 4. Extruded polystyrene foam for attic insulation

In popularity, extruded polystyrene foam is catching up with mineral wool. By chemical composition This is still the same ordinary polystyrene foam, but a fundamentally different production technology makes it possible to obtain a material with more favorable performance properties. The whole point is that regular foam obtained by expanding microgranules under the influence of steam, and extruded, as the name suggests, by extrusion at elevated temperature and pressure, as well as by adding a foaming agent.

Basic advantages:

• high-quality thermal insulation. Thermal conductivity coefficient is at the level of 0.029-0.034 W/m K;
• moisture resistance, which is largely ensured due to the structure of the material with closed pores;
• ease of installation, which is ensured by low weight and ease of processing;
• sufficient strength;
• low price;
• resistance to mold and rodents.

Among cons not the highest vapor permeability, so you will have to approach it more responsibly attic room, as well as low combustion resistance. To insulate the attic, it is better to take polystyrene foam of the G3 flammability class - according to the standards, it can be used even in rooms with increased fire safety requirements. Since the material belongs to tile insulation, a cold bridge may form at the junction of individual slabs, so it is better to take expanded polystyrene with a special lock.

No. 5. Polyurethane foam for attic insulation

Basic advantages:

• thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.02 W/m K, and this is one of the best results;
• the ability to create a completely seamless surface, so the problem of cold bridges will be completely solved;
• absolute moisture resistance, which is important for the material that will be used under the roof itself;
• high adhesion to most materials;
• the ability to insulate the attic yourself complex shape– in some cases, the use of slab insulation is generally impractical, and foam makes it easy to fill all the cracks and hard-to-reach places;
• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to mold and rodents;
• high speed of work.

Among cons price and the need to resort to the help of professionals, but all work will be carried out very quickly. In addition, the ignition temperature of the material is not very high - about 200-215 0 C, and when burned, the material emits toxic gases.

No. 6. Foam glass for attic insulation

When calculating, it is worth taking into account the heat transfer resistance of all fencing elements, including gable walls and roofing pie. It is convenient to use special calculators for this or even turn to professionals. With a certain degree of error, you can make a calculation, taking into account the required heat transfer resistance of only the attic covering, because it occupies the largest area among all the external fences of this room. According to the rules, the heat transfer resistance is already subtracted from the tabulated or independently calculated value existing materials, but for a roofing pie this value is very small, so we neglect it.

It turns out that to insulate an attic in Moscow with mineral wool (0.035-0.045 W/m*K) (heat transfer resistance 4.7 m 2 K/m), a thermal insulation layer of 16.5-21 cm is required, depending on the characteristics of the wool, the thermal conductivity index is always indicated on the package. In this case, experts recommend making thermal insulation with slabs 20 cm thick, and installing rolled mineral wool on top another 5 cm thick.

Naturally, the attic space is insulated from the inside, and the practice of combining two types of insulation is common. Properly performed thermal insulation allows you to use the attic all year round and turn it into a full-fledged living space.

Two options for arranging the attic.

Today, the attic has lost its former purpose as an attic space and has become an additional, multifunctional room. If desired, you can equip it with a billiard room, a children's room, an additional bedroom or a spacious bar. But for this it is necessary to create a suitable microclimate: waterproof and insulate the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands.

Roof insulation with mineral wool

This area is insulated first, not only for purely logical reasons, but also in order to slightly delay the insulation of the floor and walls. This is done in order to allow the wood to dry for as long as possible. Otherwise, the moisture it releases may settle on the insulation and slightly weaken its inert properties.

The thickness of mineral wool for attic insulation is 20-25 cm.

You need to start the insulation process from the outside (the case when the house is just being built). A vapor barrier is laid on the pre-prepared sheathing (boards perpendicular to the rafters, nailed on the inside) and blocks are laid out. The thickness of the mineral wool for insulating the attic should be 20-25 cm. If the thickness of the rafter beams is insufficient, you can do the following:

• or nail 50 mm blocks parallel to the support (on the rafters themselves) and lay stone wool in two layers, one on top of the other;
• or make a counter-lattice from 60-120 mm bars/boards (this way we will leave a gap between the mineral wool and the external insulation), after which we line the second layer of insulation perpendicular to the inner one;

The necessity and peculiarity of using this material is that it allows wet vapors to pass through only one direction (outside) and keeps moisture from a leaking roof from getting inside. The insulation must be secured with screws or a construction stapler, leaving very little sagging (so that the layer does not deform and lose its qualities as a result of tension during temperature changes).

When connecting sections of waterproofing, maintain sufficient overlap (about 15 cm), which will protect against leaks and the formation of gaps that release heat to the outside.

We block the cold bridges.

The intersecting layers are secured together with special double-sided adhesive tape or reliable construction tape. You can make a slight bend on the outer rafters and once again secure the edges of the film with stapler staples. Then a counter-lattice is applied to the waterproofing layer, creating a gap between the roof and the insulation layer.

The approximate thickness of this layer should be 5 centimeters. Its function is ventilation and removal of moisture accumulated under the tiles. It is important that at the highest point of the roof (ridge) a small cavity is left, not filled with insulation or timber. Through it, moist air will leave the building, passing from under the edge of the roof up and out again.

If the house has already been built, when insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool, the insulation is fixed using construction stapler(on the side surfaces of the rafters). There is also a five-centimeter gap between the film and the roof cladding for ventilation. Afterwards, with a margin of width of 10-15 mm (relative to the distance between the rafters), the thermal insulation is cut and lined.

Insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside ends with fastening to inner side rafters (or counter-lattice) vapor barrier layer, which will not allow the mineral wool to become saturated with moisture. Another row of beams is fixed on top, on which chipboard panels or the interior decoration of the room itself will be held.

Insulation of attic floors and walls

Mineral wool must be protected from moisture.

This process is very similar to roof insulation:

• We lay a vapor barrier or a layer of bitumen-impregnated paper on the boards between the rafters, which will keep mineral wool particles from slipping through the support and getting into the air of the lower floors;
• then we line the heat insulator itself in two layers with a total thickness of 15-20 cm;
• If necessary, we nail additional blocks on top to increase the height of the rafters. We place a waterproofing layer on them and cover everything with boards (subfloor).

Also, if possible, it is recommended to lay the vapor barrier overlapping the walls downwards (that is, the ends are lowered along the walls of the lower floor and plastered). This will prevent any steam from penetrating into the mineral wool and damaging it. The walls, if necessary, are insulated in the same way. Only in this case, depending on their density and thickness, the thermal insulation layer is reduced and the external waterproofing film is removed.

Which mineral wool should you buy?

When there are so many similar products on the market, it becomes difficult to determine where the best mineral wool for the attic is produced and which one is worth choosing, and which one is clearly overrated. It seems that there is some kind of “leader”. But the truth is that most large manufacturers are at approximately the same level in terms of quality and produce wool with the same thermal conductivity coefficient. You get about the same thing for the same price in completely different packages. Therefore, it is only important to remember that glass wool in blocks is considered better than rolled glass wool, and vacuum packaging can accommodate 2 times the size of the final product.

It is also worth saying that the seller of a non-core store can voice a more unbiased opinion about which mineral wool is better for the attic and which for the walls of the lower floors than a consultant from one of the manufacturing companies. Therefore, before making a final decision, compare the parameters at least three options from various companies and choose the best one.

That's all! We looked at the question of how to make a former attic space warm, and discussed the general insulation technique. We took into account all the details and are now almost ready to get to work. All that remains is to watch the practical guide on insulating an attic from the inside with mineral wool in the video and get answers to all the remaining questions in it.

If you analyze heating costs, the need for high-quality attic insulation will become obvious. When finishing an attic used as a living space, it is necessary to use high-quality, time-tested attic insulation.

Residential attic under a pitched roof

Energy-saving materials must necessarily meet the following requirements:

• Fire safety– the finishing must be made of non-combustible insulation;
• High level of acoustic protection to completely eliminate the penetration of extraneous noise into the living space;
• High vapor permeability to provide a comfortable microclimate;

Insulation installation diagram

• The choice of insulation for the attic should be based on water-repellent finishing characteristics. Because it is the roof of the building that is exposed to precipitation.
• Insulation for residential premises must comply sanitary and environmental building standards.

Important. Before choosing and purchasing a finish, be sure to ask the seller for certificates of conformity. A conscientious manufacturer is always ready to provide all technical documentation for the offered product.

The decision about which insulation to choose for the attic should be based primarily on the roof structure. And also whether the attic roof is vapor-permeable or not.

Types of attic insulation

Additional square meters under the roof can be decorated stylishly and effectively

Depending on how water vapor and condensate are brought to the surface, the thickness of the attic insulation is selected.

Vapor permeable roof type

Layer-by-layer installation of insulation

The design of roofs, in the rafter system of which a wind protection system with high level vapor permeability, refers to a vapor-permeable type of roofing. Steam and condensate are removed from the room through the insulation layer into the windproof gap, and then through vent gets out.

Important. The installation instructions for such insulation require that the thickness of the insulation be two centimeters less than the height of the roof rafters. This will prevent the wind gap from moving towards the vent.

Insulating the attic in two layers

Energy saving mineral wool finish

To ensure maximum energy savings, a two-layer installation of the material is recommended. What thickness of insulation for an attic in two layers is considered optimal? Experts recommend insulation with a thickness of at least 25 – 30 centimeters. It is necessary to lay the material both between the roof rafters and under them. Two layers of insulation reduce the likelihood of “linear cold bridges”.

The first layer of insulation, ten to twenty centimeters thick, is installed between the roof rafters. During installation, the width of the material is taken with an allowance of one and a half to two centimeters. This is necessary in order to prevent subsidence of the material during operation;

The second layer is installed in the gap between the ceiling sheathing and the rafters. This layer eliminates “cold bridges” that occur at the joints of beams, rafters and other roof structures. The thickness of the layer should be at least ten centimeters.

Advice. For double-layer roof insulation it is recommended to use roll insulation. This is necessary so that the number of joints is kept to a minimum.

Materials for attic and attic insulation

Arrangement of insulation layers for a pitched roof

In Russian construction market There is a fairly large selection of insulation for residential attics:

• Glass wool;
• Mineral wool;
• Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam (not recommended for roofs);
• Organic insulation – hemp, felt, damask;
• Multilayer sandwich panels;
• Foam concrete;
• Foamed polyurethane foam;

Application of polyurethane foam

• Foam glass;
• Expanded clay.

Advice. When choosing insulation, its thickness and release form, it is necessary to take into account the material from which the roof gable is made. The insulation density for an attic with wooden gables should be higher than for walls made of brick or reinforced concrete. This is due to the fact that wood is more susceptible to adverse weather conditions and is more hygroscopic.

Insulation for finishing roofs and residential attics must have the following properties:

• Durability and strength;
• Possess increased water-repellent characteristics;
• Roof finishing should be made only from non-combustible materials;
• A mandatory property of high-quality insulation is the ability to maintain geometric parameters for a long time and not deform over time;

Diagram of the use of roll and slab material

• The insulation must not be hygroscopic. Since the accumulation of moisture under the skin will lead to an increase in thermal conductivity;
• An important parameter is also the frost resistance of the material and resistance to temperature changes.

Advice. It is not recommended to choose ordinary foam plastic as insulation for the attic, since the material is highly flammable. Therefore, it is better to focus on safer finishing options.

Let us consider the characteristics of individual insulation materials in more detail.

Glass wool

Necessary protection when installing glass wool

Most a budget option roof insulation, since the price of the material is quite low. The insulation has low thermal conductivity and resistance to high temperatures. Available in both rolls and slabs.

Advice. When laying glass wool with your own hands, you must take precautions. The smallest particles of glass, falling on open skin, cause burning and irritation. Therefore, it is necessary to work with glass wool only in a protective suit.

Glass wool can be used both for insulation between roof rafters and under sheathing made of chipboard or plasterboard. The thickness of the insulation ranges from 15 to 30 centimeters. Depending on the climate zone The thickness of the insulation layer is also selected.

The disadvantages of glass wool include the fact that it is easily deformed and over time loses its shape and sag. Glass wool is also hygroscopic and at high humidity its thermal insulation properties are significantly reduced. Glass wool, unfortunately, cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly insulation option for residential premises.

Mineral wool

Installation of mineral wool slabs between rafters

The safest and easiest to install option for energy-saving material for roof slopes and residential attic spaces. Mineral wool produced on the basis of basalt fibers has high density, from 18 to 45 kg per cubic meter.

• Excellent sound insulation;
• Environmental Safety;

Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool can be considered the best option isolation.

Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly, non-flammable material with excellent technical characteristics:

• Excellent sound insulation;
• Environmental Safety;
• Increased resistance to moisture;
• Resistance to temperature changes;

Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool can be considered the best insulation option.

Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly, non-flammable material with excellent technical characteristics:

• Excellent sound insulation;
• Environmental Safety;
• Increased resistance to moisture;
• Resistance to temperature changes;

Important. This property of mineral wool makes it an ideal insulation option for wooden roofs that are susceptible to mold and mildew.

• The form of release in the form of slabs allows you to easily and quickly install the insulating layer of roof slopes and attic walls.

The price of the material is slightly higher than that of glass wool, but this is justified by the improved technical characteristics mineral wool slabs.

Organic materials

As insulation for roofs, organic insulation materials are used only with the use of fire retardant additives and protective impregnations that prevent the material from igniting. Most often, felt, hemp, reed slabs and sawdust are used to insulate inter-crown joints in timber buildings.

Advice. By entrusting roof and attic insulation to professionals, you can be confident in the quality and guaranteed energy-saving properties of the roof. It is advisable that the company conducting installation work provided warranty service for the facility. The standard warranty period for the facility is up to five years. In this case, the customer can be sure that all defects in the insulation will be eliminated by the construction company free of charge. This will not only save cash, but also the nervous system.

Insulation for the attic, what should be the thickness and density of the material, how to choose it yourself: instructions, photo and video tutorials, price

Insulation for the attic, what should be the thickness and density of the material, how to choose it yourself: instructions, photo and video tutorials, price

Insulation for the attic: which one is better to choose

The question of which insulation is best for the attic is relevant for those who have decided to equip a living space under the high pitched roof of a private house. The attic differs from an ordinary room in the house due to increased heat loss. This is explained by the fact that it usually does not have permanent external walls without window openings, and on both sides and above the room is separated from the street only by a roofing system of small thickness.

Mineral wool insulation

Criteria for choosing insulation for the attic

High-quality insulation makes the attic suitable for year-round use. When choosing a heat insulator, you need to pay attention to performance characteristics materials, including compare:

• noise insulation properties;
• ease of installation;
• moisture resistance;
• resistance to biological degradation;
• lifetime;
• efficiency;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire safety.

But the main quality by which insulation material is evaluated is its thermal conductivity coefficient, on which the ability to retain heat in a room depends.

From the point of view of ease of installation and use of insulation, preference should be given to universal materials. If the same thermal insulator can be used for walls, roof and floor, the insulation of all structures will last the same period.

Sound insulation properties - especially important parameter, if the roofing decking is made of metal (seam roofing, metal tiles, corrugated sheeting). Gusts of wind, rain and hail make such a roof “sound”, and staying in the attic will cause discomfort.

Slab insulation from a well-known manufacturer

Since the roof frame is usually made of wood, it is advisable to use insulation that is fire resistant and flame retardant. Otherwise, an accidental fire will cause the entire attic and roof to quickly become engulfed in fire.

To wooden structures the rafter system and gables did not form condensation and the insulation did not lose its thermal insulation properties due to moisture penetration, it is necessary to insulate the attic space with a vapor- and moisture-proof material, or use reliable hydro- and vapor barrier. This affects the speed and complexity of installing the insulating layer and influences preferences when choosing a material.

Polyurethane foam and ecowool are modern materials that can be used as a heat insulator for attic spaces, but their installation requires the use of specialized equipment and the invitation of specialists. Other popular heat insulators are available in the form of slabs or rolled materials of varying densities and thicknesses.

The insulation is cut along the width of the span between adjacent rafters (or the gap between the sheathing slats on the walls) and inserted at random. If the calculated thickness of the heat-insulating layer exceeds the width of the rafter leg, bars of a suitable cross-section are placed on the rafters from the room side.

The most effective is two-layer insulation - after the gaps between the rafters are filled with a heat insulator, another layer of rolled material (possibly with a foil vapor barrier outer surface) is attached over the rafters with continuous joined strips. This will eliminate the occurrence of cold bridges.

Laying thermal insulation between the rafters

Let's take a closer look at the main pros and cons of popular insulation materials that are suitable for thermal insulation of attic roofs and gables.

Fiber roll and slab insulation

Their key advantage and at the same time disadvantage is the ability to pass steam. Theoretically, moist warm air from the attic will escape through the breathable interior lining, insulation and roofing system, which will help maintain a favorable indoor climate. In practice, the following difficulties exist:

• an increase in the humidity of fiber insulation leads to a sharp decrease in its thermal insulation properties;
• insulation (especially glass wool) that has absorbed moisture becomes wrinkled and deformed, forming cold bridges;
• The wood of the rafter system begins to rot from contact with moisture.

To avoid these problems, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier on top of the insulation from inside the room. And between the roofing and thermal insulation, waterproofing material must be laid.

Roofing pie with waterproofing over insulation

Air exchange through fibrous insulation will only take place if the waterproofing and vapor barrier layer is made of special gas-permeable membranes. The vapor barrier should allow air to pass through, but retain moisture coming from the room. A gas-permeable waterproofing barrier must release moisture from the insulation and prevent water from penetrating into it.

Membrane materials are much more expensive than conventional or reinforced film, roofing felt or glassine. But these investments will pay off due to the durability of not only the insulation, but also the roof truss system.

Superdiffusion membrane If you use a film as a vapor barrier, this will reduce the cost of construction, but this will reduce to zero the important advantage of fiber insulation - gas permeability. Perforated film should not be used, as it allows steam to pass through and will accumulate in the insulation.

Performance characteristics of fiber insulation

Glass wool. To her positive qualities can be attributed:

• fire safety (2nd degree of fire resistance);
• environmental safety (does not contain resins);
• unattractive to mice (they do not build nests and passages);
• affordable price.

The main disadvantage is that when working with the material, caustic glass dust is formed; installation of the heat insulator requires care and use protective equipment. In addition, over time, glass wool tends to deform and wrinkle, especially when moisture penetrates.

Mineral wool. The material contains fibers of various origins (manufacturing materials - clay, stone, quartz sand, glass, etc.). Mineral wool is characterized by a multilayer heterogeneous structure with air lenses. Due to this, the material dampens sound waves well. Choosing mineral wool (primarily Isover, Ursa) is recommended for those who have decided to make metal roofing.

This heat insulator is fire-resistant, does not rot, and is easy to install. But rodents can settle in it, whose nests, passages and waste products reduce the performance properties of the insulation.

Basalt wool. Consists of fibers obtained by melting rock. Withstands heat up to 1000 degrees, does not spread combustion. You should choose basalt wool carefully, checking quality and safety certificates: some manufacturers, in an effort to reduce the cost of products, use resins that emit toxic substances.

Basalt wool

Basalt wool is resistant to fungus, but can be damaged by rodents. This is a good sound insulator and easy to install. But when choosing a material for insulating a rafter system, you should take into account enough heavy weight stone wool slabs.

If you have to choose a fiber insulator for attic insulation, pay attention to the density of the material. The heat insulator should not lose its shape even when long-term operation. For mineral basalt wool the density indicator should be about 40-45 kg/m3.

Polymer materials for insulation

We choose a polymer heat insulator for the roof and walls of the attic. This can be polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam (these two types of insulation are available in the form of sheets and slabs of various thicknesses), as well as polyurethane foam, which is applied to structures by spraying.

The advantages of polymer insulation include low weight and low thermal conductivity. Such thermal insulation will not overload the rafter system and will successfully cope with the task of retaining heat.

The disadvantages of polymer insulation include extremely low vapor permeability. There is no gas exchange through insulated structures, so you cannot do without a well-thought-out ventilation system in the attic.

Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) and polyurethane foam will not allow heat and steam to pass through to the roof rafter frame, therefore, there is no need to install a vapor barrier on the room side. Despite the fact that the dew point at internal insulation gables will shift towards the heat insulator, moisture, dangerous for wood, will not condense.

All joints and junctions of foam insulation must be filled polyurethane foam and (after removing excess foam) taped with reinforced tape so that the insulation layer is airtight.

Manufacturers produce penoplex of various densities. For pitched roofs and attic walls, where heat loss is high, it is advisable to use slabs with a density of 30-35 kg/m3.

If you decide to choose inexpensive foam plastic, it is better to install insulation according to the same principle as fiber board materials. Unlike extruded polystyrene foam with a continuous closed-cell structure, polystyrene foam consists of many individual granules pressed into a slab. Between structural elements technological pores remain that are capable of allowing steam to pass to wooden structures.

A suitable foam density is 35 kg/m3; at a break, the material should not crumble into individual balls. Since polystyrene foam smolders when ignited, releasing toxic substances and is easily chewed by mice, it is not the best material for internal insulation.

Polymer insulation for the attic should not be considered as a soundproofing material for the roof - it will not save you from the sound of raindrops. But if you insulate the floor with it, it will reduce the vibration load from steps, creating acoustic comfort in the rooms under the attic.

The selected insulation option will last for many years if purchased good material and take into account all the subtleties of its installation.

Which insulation is better for the attic: how to choose thickness and density

Which insulation is best for the attic? Criteria for selecting suitable insulation plus selection of the required thickness and density of the heat insulator.

Attics - life under a roof

If the house has an attic, then it needs to be insulated. This must be done to maintain heat in the house. The attic can also be used as a living space by expanding usable area. Insulation of the attic must also be done in order to preserve the roof material and its elements, create coziness, microclimate and comfort in the living space.

It is important to correctly calculate the thickness of the material for insulating the attic. To do this, you need to know within what limits it varies temperature in your area and the properties of the material you have chosen for thermal insulation.

When insulating an attic, the thickness of the insulation is an important point.

What is used to insulate an attic roof?

To insulate the attic, glass wool, basalt (stone) wool, and extruded polystyrene are used. The insulation material must not allow or absorb moisture, be easy to use, fire resistant, and retain previous dimensions in progress operation, i.e. don't sit down. It must be remembered that attic insulation does not create heat, but is intended to preserve it.

In the attic, three structures need to be insulated: the walls, the roof slopes and the attic floor itself. To insulate each structure, the thickness of the insulation required is different, since the side walls retain heat better than the ceiling of the attic.

We take into account that different designs require different insulation . So, it is better to insulate the slopes of the attic roof with special glass wool designed for pitched roofs. You can read this on the packaging.

We use basalt (stone) wool in the form of slabs, so it does not break or deform, and does not shrink. It is suitable for roof insulation.

Whatever material you choose should be tiled as this will prevent it from rolling and will make it last longer.

Thermal insulation properties of various materials

How to calculate the thickness of attic insulation?

To carry out the operation of calculating the thickness of the material for insulation you need to know two quantities: R - thermal resistance and λB - thermal conductivity of the material. Index B indicates that the material can be used in a damp environment. Thermal resistance R depends on the climate of your area, and you will find the thermal conductivity of the insulation printed on the product packaging or in the documents accompanying it.

Thermal resistance table (R)

Table of insulation thickness depending on the city

You can also use a map of thermal resistance for some cities in Russia, posted on the Internet, and a table of thermal conductivity of materials. If your city is not listed in the table, use the map to look for a nearby city whose thermal resistance is indicated in the table.

The thickness of the insulation is calculated using the formula R λB.

An example of calculating the thickness of material for insulation.

Formulas for calculating the thickness of insulation

As you can see, the choice of different materials entails different thicknesses of insulation and for different floors you need insulation of different thicknesses. All you have to do is ask about prices and choose the right insulation.

Insulation thickness for the attic, Attics - life under the roof

Attics - life under a roof If the house has an attic, then it needs to be insulated. This must be done to maintain heat in the house. The attic can also be used as a living space,

Construction of houses

Every year more and more of our compatriots fall under the temptation to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if you install skylights. Almost all new country houses are initially built with an attic, but even in old houses, cold attics are remodeled by compassionate owners, insulated, heated and furnished. To keep the attic warm and dry in winter, cool in summer and the materials last a long time, you need to understand the very essence of insulation technology attic floor and understand the processes occurring in it. Perform insulation mansard roof It’s not difficult to do it yourself, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything correctly, then the thermal insulation material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet or rot, and as a result, there will be no need for immediate major repairs.

Why is attic roof insulation necessary?

The attic is a special room, its walls are almost tightly drawn to the surface of the roof and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10 - 15 cm. That is why the attic quickly cools down in winter and heats up in summer. The entire roof area acts as a storage unit for solar heat in the summer, and most of the heat escapes through it in the winter. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made and ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from heating radiators rises, spreads under the roof arch and safely evaporates, since the roofing material has high thermal conductivity. The snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in the summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result even the air becomes hot and stale. Even two air conditioners cannot cope with this problem.

In a house with a classic cold attic, the situation is completely different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in the attic. Loose-fill thermal insulation materials on the attic floor plus air trapped in the attic perfectly hold back the heat coming from the heated living space. As a result, even in the harshest winters, the temperature in the attic does not drop below 0°C - -2°C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be adjusted by opening and closing the windows in the gables; in fact, this is real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating structural elements roofs.

What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room by choosing the right material, its thickness, installation location and following the technology. For example, if you use insulation of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to re-cover the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will allow you to completely isolate the attic space from the roof, and proper ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensation from the under-roof space. But first things first.

Materials for insulating an attic roof

Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulating an attic roof is a very important task. The type of insulation determines how thick the insulation “pie” will be and the number of layers in it. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be used, certain requirements are imposed on it:

• Low thermal conductivity. It is advisable to take material with a coefficient below 0.05 W/m*K.
• Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material must be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed to prevent it from getting wet.
• The low weight of the insulation is extremely important so as not to overload the roof structure. The weight of a material can be determined by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45–50 kg/m3, and fiberglass insulation with a density of 14 kg/m3. Heavier slab options (200 kg/m2) are not suitable.
• Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn and does not support combustion.
• Ability to keep in shape. Since the place where the insulation is laid is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, over time the light roll material based on mineral fiber can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and size for a long time.
• Resistance to severe frosts, temperature changes and the ability to withstand numerous changes in defrosting/freezing cycles.
• Durability.

The thickness of the attic insulation is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a special online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of the insulation of the walls, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat loss, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you select “by eye”, then in most cases a 250 mm layer of mineral wool is sufficient.

Let's consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate attic roofs.

Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating an attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool fits perfectly into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn or support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. Slab positions of basalt wool keep their shape perfectly. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any wool, so waterproofing is required on the roof side and vapor barrier on the living room side, since mineral wool also absorbs steam well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and it is required complete replacement. In addition, over time it cakes and crumbles and does not withstand mechanical loads well.

Nevertheless, mineral wool remains one of the most the best materials for insulating an attic roof with your own hands. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and following the correct technology will eliminate its shortcomings. For different regions The thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but minimum layer mineral wool for central Russia is 150 mm, in colder regions the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.

Expanded polystyrene or Styrofoam- an extremely popular material on the market, which is used to insulate everything, both what is possible and what is not. Against the backdrop of seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape - foam plastic has significant drawbacks. Firstly, various brands expanded polystyrene have varying degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason they use flammable foam G3 - G4 for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upward; if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be impossible to survive in it. Secondly, working with polystyrene foam is not very convenient, since it crumbles when cut and installed, leaving gaps between the rafters that have to be sealed in all sorts of cunning ways. Thirdly, foam plastic begins to crumble and collapse over time. Considering all the shortcomings, it is not worth doing insulation of the attic roof with polystyrene foam. This material can only be used in areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.

Extruded polystyrene foam– an excellent material for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is quite durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, and holds its shape perfectly. And what is important is that a very small layer of it is required, from 50 to 100 mm.

Polyurethane foam- a modern material that is blown in using a special installation, without leaving the slightest cracks or gaps. This is an undeniable plus, especially since with such spraying it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and holds its shape perfectly. But it has another drawback - low vapor permeability, he practically doesn’t “breathe” at all. This means that the attic room will always be unpleasantly humid if forced ventilation is not installed.

Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate an attic roof. It also blows into all the cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, “breathes” and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or random particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.

When choosing insulation for an attic roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also to the purely design features of its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the insulation “pie” and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If you spray polyurethane foam into the space between the rafters, the rafters become practically inaccessible for inspection. So you need to treat everything wisely.

How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside

The most common way to insulate an attic is from the inside, if space allows or there are no other contraindications. For this purpose, insulation materials based on mineral wool, glass wool and, less commonly, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Even less often they blow out polyurethane foam or ecowool.

Scheme for insulating an attic roof from the inside

Compliance with the correct “pie” of insulation of the attic roof is the key to the durability of the materials and the comfort of living in the attic room.

Pie of insulation of the attic roof (from the inside out):

• Finishing material.
• Vapor barrier membrane.
• Insulation – mineral wool or glass wool.
• A waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not let moisture in.
• Ventilation gap with sheathing.
• Roofing material.

Vapor barrier film must be used if cotton wool materials are used as insulation. This way, mineral wool can be protected from damp vapors in the living room. If polyurethane foam or ecowool is used instead of mineral wool, then a vapor barrier is not needed.

Waterproofing needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect wooden elements roof structures. As waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes that can release steam outside and prevent moisture from entering. A ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm thick is required between the waterproofing film and the roofing material, depending on the type of roof. Excess steam from the insulation will escape through it.

Laying insulation between the rafters of the attic roof

It is better to insulate the attic roof from the inside during the construction stage of the house. Then all stages of work will be completed correctly. Before starting insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, draw a drawing of the attic with exact dimensions and mark where the finishing will be internal space. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope right up to the ceiling, then it is necessary to insulate the entire roof slope. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. at the bottom between the slope and the interior trim there will be free space, then you will have to insulate strictly according to the drawn diagram, leaving free space for ventilation. But then in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling.

Let's consider the option of insulating the entire roof slope:

• Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread loosely so that it does not tear when frost sets in. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then you can use galvanized nails with a wide head.
• We nail a sheathing of wooden blocks on top. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We secure the sheathing with corrosion-resistant screws. To avoid damaging the film again, we make holes in the bars in advance.

Important! For greater reliability, you can do two ventilation gap: between insulation and waterproofing, between waterproofing and roofing. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.

• We lay roofing material on the sheathing - tiles, corrugated sheets, slate, metal tiles. Here it is for installation soft roof first you need to nail the sheathing on top chipboard sheets or moisture-resistant plywood, which will serve as a base for fastening.

• The work is moving inside the attic space. We unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let it lie down and straighten out. Cut into required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm greater than the distance between the rafters so that the canvases are held “at odds”.

• We push the insulation sheets into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The thickness of the rafters should be 200 - 250 mm.

Important! It is convenient to select the pitch between the rafters according to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold in a width of 1200 mm. The step can be 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.

• We lay the insulation on top vapor barrier material with an overlap of 10 cm, seal the joints with tape. We fix it to the rafters with staples or using lathing.
• We fill the lathing with 25 mm thick slats.
• We attach the finishing material to the slats.

This completes the insulation. For more clear example You can watch a video of insulating an attic roof.

If you are planning to insulate an attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. Waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping it around the rafters and leading into the space between them. But in this case, wooden rafters are left unprotected in case of leaks.

Laying insulation under the rafters of an attic roof

A slightly less common method of insulation is used when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that this way you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. And so the tight fit of the heat-insulating material will ensure that there are no gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve additional ventilation. Very good decision, if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.

Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:

• We nail a waterproofing membrane onto the rafters from the inside.
• We attach plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that with their U-shaped holes they look at each other.

• We put insulation into the hangers. We cut the canvas with a slight overlap to prevent the appearance of cracks. The result should be a continuous sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are located.
• We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and secure it with staples.
• We stuff the sheathing for finishing material. For fastening, we use long nails 150 - 200 mm to pierce the insulation and reach the rafters.

In principle, this method can be combined with laying insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will cover everything, including cold bridges.

How to insulate an attic roof from the outside

It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only at the construction stage or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave attic space in its original form without loss of area. Also many design solutions suggest the use of rafters as decorative elements situation.

External attic roof insulation technology

Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, so it does not require vapor barrier. The “pie” of Penoplex insulation will look like this:

• Extruded polystyrene foam boards.
• Waterproofing membrane.
• Ventilation gap with sheathing.
• Roofing material.

An undeniable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.

Laying insulation on the rafters of an attic roof

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam over the rafters allows you to create a continuous thermal insulation layer without cold bridges.

• To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, we nail a board at the very bottom to the rafters, with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
• We spread the insulation boards in a checkerboard pattern. You need to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
• We fix them to the rafters using special dowels with a mushroom cap.
• We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, seal the joints with tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
• We fill the sheathing with bars at least 40 mm thick.
• We install roofing material.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not require any additional protection from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire façade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if insulation is carried out using a curtain wall system, then you can use mineral wool with a vapor barrier and waterproofing films. And if it is planned wet facade, then foam plastic can be laid under it. Do not forget that adherence to technology is the key to success.

Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof, Construction portal

Construction of houses Every year more and more of our compatriots fall under the temptation to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and

Many owners of country houses and country houses in order to increase the living space, they will equip an attic space to create an office, bedroom, or living room there. Such a room is usually called an attic. It needs to be insulated.

Several different materials are used as insulation: mineral and glass wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, and other insulation materials. But not all of these materials are suitable for carrying out work on thermal insulation of an attic space for converting it into a real attic.

Requirements for materials for insulation

Materials used for attic insulation must have:

1. Fire safety. They should not support combustion.
2. Perform sound protection functions that prevent the penetration of noise from the outside.
3. Vapor permeability function to ensure the necessary microclimate in the attic room.
4. Compliance with environmental, sanitary and construction standards.
5. Strength and durability.
6. Resistant to deformation.

According to the recommendations of many experts, the insulation layer should be 25-30 cm. It is better to arrange a double or triple layer. This method of insulation prevents the appearance of cold bridges. When insulating the attic, we must not forget that the pediment is also a wall of the attic. A wooden gable requires a thicker layer of insulation than brick walls.

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Some characteristics of insulation

Foam is widely used for insulating walls, floors and ceilings. In the attic, the functions of walls and ceiling are performed by the roof of the building. It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam to insulate it for the following reasons:

• all roof elements, including insulation material, must be well ventilated;
• the insulation must allow air and moisture vapor to pass through well.

According to the laws of physics, warm air rises from bottom to top. Polystyrene foam does not allow moisture contained in warm air to pass through at all. This will lead to the formation of condensation from inside the room. As a result, parts will become damp within 1-3 years. truss structure, trickles of water will begin to flow through the insulation material, mold will appear, wooden parts the roofs will begin to rot.

Very common materials are mineral wool and glass wool. They have low cost and excellent resistance to high temperatures. When working with glass wool, it is necessary to take special protective measures, since the smallest particles of glass when they come into contact with open areas of the skin cause severe irritation and significant pain. You can only work in protective clothing, gloves and goggles. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer made of mineral wool or glass wool is selected at the rate of 15-30 cm. This depends on the climatic zone in which the house is located.

Attic roof insulation elements: 1 – mineral wool; 2 – vapor and wind barrier (membrane); 3 – waterproofing; 4 - air currents; 5 – rafter; 6 – roof; 7 – attic cladding.

The negative aspects of this insulating material include its slight deformation and hygroscopicity, which can lead to a decrease in thermal insulation properties. Glass wool is also not an environmentally friendly material. Therefore, it is preferable to use mineral wool. You need to purchase mineral wool based on a density of 40-45 kg per cubic meter. This is optimal. Mineral wool is a material that provides:

• environmental safety;
• non-flammability;
• good sound insulation;
• resistance to moisture and temperature changes;
• frost resistance;
• protection from rodents and other pests;
• resistance to fungus and mold;
• quick and easy installation.

You can use felt, hemp, sawdust, and reed slabs. But all these materials require preliminary antiseptic and fire retardant treatment. These operations significantly increase the life of thermal protection equipment.

Sandwich panels are more expensive than mineral wool, but guarantee the quality and durability of the insulation. They consist of several layers: vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing, decorative.

Foam glass slabs are a relatively new and expensive insulation material. Has high strength. The material is quite elastic and resistant to various mechanical influences. Ideal for thermal protection when using soft roofing.

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Insulation of the attic room

An attic roof usually consists of a rafter system covered with roofing material. The rafters are installed every 60-100 cm. These gaps are filled with insulation. It is recommended to use mineral wool or fiberglass as insulation material. This material is available in the form of slabs or mats. They are laid in layers, the number of which depends on their thickness. What should it be like? is produced based on the thermal conductivity coefficient, which is indicated in quality certificates. You can rely on the following data:

Coefficient Insulation thickness

• 0.035 150 mm;
• 0.04 180 mm;
• 0.044 200 mm;
• 0.045 205 mm;
• 0.046 210 mm;
• 0.047 215 mm;
• 0.05 225 mm.

With a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.04, the calculation of the average thickness of the insulation layer for different cities in Russia will be as follows:

City Thermal Insulation Thickness (mm):

Table for calculating the average thickness of the insulation layer for different cities of Russia.

• Arkhangelsk 220;
• Astrakhan 160;
• Anadyr 290;
• Barnaul 210;
• Belgorod 170;
• Blagoveshchensk 230;
• Bryansk 190;
• Volgograd 160;
• Vologda 210;
• Voronezh 180;
• Vladimir 200;
• Vladivostok 190;
• Vladikavkaz 150;
• Grozny 150;
• Ekaterinburg 210;
• Ivanovo 200;
• Igarka 290;
• Irkutsk 220;
• Izhevsk 210;
• Yoshkar-Ola 210;
• Kazan 200;
• Kaliningrad 170;
• Kaluga 190;
• Kemerovo 220;
• Kirov 210;
• Kostroma 200;
• Krasnodar 140;
• Krasnoyarsk 210;
• Kurgan 210;
• Kursk 180;
• Kyzyl 240;
• Lipetsk 180;
• Magadan 250;
• Makhachkala 130;
• Moscow 190;
• Murmansk 220
• Nalchik 150
• Nizhny Novgorod 200;
• Novgorod 190;
• Novosibirsk 220;
• Omsk 210;
• Orenburg 190;
• Eagle 190;
• Penza 190;
• Perm 210;
• Petrozavodsk 210;
• Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky 190;
• Pskov 190;
• Rostov-on-Don 160;
• Ryazan 190;
• Samara 200;
• St. Petersburg 190;
• Saransk 190;
• Saratov 180;
• Salekhard 280;
• Smolensk 190;
• Stavropol 150;
• Syktyvkar 220;
• Tambov 180;
• Tver 200;
• Tomsk 230;
• Tula 190;
• Tyumen 210;
• Ulyanovsk 190;
• Ulan-Ude 230;
• Ufa 200;
• Khabarovsk 220;
• Cheboksary 200;
• Chelyabinsk 200;
• Chita 240;
• Elista 160;
• Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk 210;
• Yakutsk 290;
• Yaroslavl 200.

If the cross-section of the rafter legs is less than the thickness of the layer insulation material, additional wooden blocks are attached to them using nails, screws or self-tapping screws. They must be treated with an antiseptic composition. There should be ventilation in the form of an air gap between the insulation layer and the roof. Magnitude air gap is 25-50 mm. The insulation is protected from above windproof membrane. It is better to use Tyvek HD, Monaperm 450 VM, and Monarflex VM 310 films for this purpose.

The bottom layer of insulation for the attic is covered with a vapor barrier film and a finishing cladding is installed from lining, plasterboard or other materials.

To create comfortable conditions in the attic room, thermal insulation is needed. Then you need to insulate the roof and gables. A wide variety of materials can be used for these purposes. It is best to use mineral wool. It has excellent characteristics and is easy to install.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated according to the region of residence.

The colder the climate, the larger the insulation layer should be. Properly installed thermal insulation significantly reduces building heating costs.

The arrangement of attic rooms in private houses and cottages involves increasing the living space with a minimum of financial investments and costs of materials. Since the additional upper floor is intended for further use, the logical action would be to carry out measures to insulate it.

Warming “pie”

Experts use Various types insulation depending on the design of the building, the climatic conditions of the location of the building, and the financial capabilities of the owner. However, the layer-by-layer arrangement of materials necessary for insulating the attic looks approximately the same (see):

1. External covering.
2. Counter-lattice.
3. Waterproofing layer.
4. Insulation.
5. Vapor barrier with fixative.
6. Decorative coating.

Depending on what is supposed to be insulated: the roof, walls, floor, the diagram may change slightly, but the principle of constructing the “pie” will be approximately the same.

IMPORTANT! When choosing insulation, you must independently or with the involvement of professionals make the optimal calculation for the quantity necessary materials. This will help avoid a significant reduction in the height or linear parameters of the room due to the thickness of the “pie” layers.

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool will perfectly protect the room not only from cold or excessive heat, but also from noise. However, the disadvantage of the material is its high hygroscopicity, which necessitates the use of a waterproofing layer to increase moisture resistance.

When creating a thermal insulation layer for the roof, the thickness of the insulation for the attic can vary in the range of 15 - 20 - 25 cm, which depends on the structural features of the rafter system. In order for the mineral wool to fill the required space, the width of the canvas should be 2 cm larger.

Thanks to the use of thermal insulation, sufficient conservation of comfortable heat, breathability, and eco-cleanliness of the internal layers without the development of fungus, mold, and microbes will be ensured in the attic.

Builders consider the use of extruded polystyrene foam to be one of the most profitable materials both in terms of costs and in preventing heat loss.

IMPORTANT! Before using EP, you should check the treatment of the construction product with substances that increase fire resistance, or ensure their presence in the constituent components.

EP is easy to install and follows the same installation steps as mineral wool. When determining how thick the penoplex should be, it is necessary to know the parameters of the space to be filled in order to take into account the location of the material.

The fact is that to insulate the roof or walls of an attic room, a thickness of 7 - 10 cm will be sufficient. After laying and securing the polystyrene foam sheets and interior decoration, we can say with confidence that the heat on the top floor will be fully preserved.

ADVICE! If EP is intended to be used in regions with low temperatures, then for greater confidence in thermal insulation, experienced specialists It is recommended to lay two layers.

Such actions will pay off in energy costs for heating not only the attic, but also the rooms whose ceilings serve as the floor of the upper room.

Advantages

From positive properties highlight:

1. The tightness of the slabs.
2. No delaminations.
3. Maintaining thickness due to the fact that the material does not sag.
4. Good sound insulation.
5. Low price.
6. Lightness, due to which the pressure on the structure is insignificant.

The negative aspects of choosing polystyrene foam for attic insulation include its weak vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity.

Basalt insulation

Basalt insulation is characterized by the following features:

1. Resistance to mechanical deformation.
2. Noise insulation.
3. Hydrophobicity.
4. Energy saving.
5. Non-flammability.
6. Durability.

When calculating the optimal thickness, it is necessary to take into account all its characteristics in order to select a layer sufficient for insulation. Typically, for any of the Russian regions, the best thickness is considered to be 150 - 200 mm. For areas with severe frosts, a two-layer laying of basalt slabs will be required.

Is it worth insulating the attic?

The question is relevant, since the cost of any of the above or other insulation materials cannot be called low, the costs will definitely be there. But if the owners of the house have a desire to create another living space while simultaneously insulating the roof (there is no way around this point), and also spend time in a cozy and warm space, then it is better to insulate the attic. After determining how thick the insulation layer should be, all that remains is to purchase the selected material and begin to carefully carry out the work.

Successful and economical solutions to preserve heat in the attic!