Due to intense load, stains, cracks and chips form on the surface of the bathtub. When defects appear, it is not at all necessary to run to the store for a new bathtub, because it is much cheaper to restore the damaged coating using acrylic, enamel or liner. We will tell you how to restore a bathtub with your own hands, eliminate minor defects and how much such repairs will cost from specialists.

There are three main ways to restore the surface of a bathtub:

• • Applying a new layer of acrylic (glass).

• • Applying a new layer of enamel.

• Gluing the acrylic liner.

Regardless of the restoration method you choose, it is necessary to prepare the bathtub for repair.

Preparatory stage

The process of preparing a bath for renovation:

1. Free your bathroom from extra items interior that may interfere with the work process.
2. Dismantle the drain and overflow of the bathroom; to do this, unscrew the outer grilles and clamping rings on the pipes. Depending on condition removed pipes and parts, buy new spare parts in advance to replace old ones.
3. Remove the baseboard between the tub and the wall.
4. Using coarse sandpaper or a drill with a special attachment, sand the surface of the bathtub until the gloss is removed. During the sanding process, try to remove all irregularities and loose pieces of the old coating. If the bathtub has been previously restored, then in this case it is necessary to remove the entire layer of the old coating.
5. Putty all the chips and holes, after the putty has dried, sand again.
6. Remove all debris and dust using a vacuum cleaner or damp cloth.
7. Cover the outside of the tub and the floor with plastic.
8. Wash the bathtub thoroughly with a quality detergent.
9. Degrease the surface of the bathtub using a solvent.

Below is a list of tools and Supplies that you will need at the preparatory stage:

• Adjustable wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Putty knife.
• Putty for metal
• Chisel or chisel.
• Drill with sanding attachment or coarse sandpaper.
• Vacuum cleaner or rag.
• Masking tape.
• Polyethylene film.
• Detergent.
• Solvent.

Having finished preparing the bathtub, proceed to the restoration option you have chosen.

Surface restoration using acrylic

When restoring a bathtub with an acrylic mixture, a very important factor is right choice acrylic manufacturer. After all, the quality of restoration largely depends not on the skill of the worker, but on the behavior of the mixture during pouring. Very often, the use of low-quality acrylic or hardener leads to the formation of air bubbles, smudges and peeling of the coating during further use. Therefore, when purchasing, do not save money and purchase acrylic made in Europe.


To restore a bathtub with acrylic, follow the following procedure:

1. Prepare the bathtub for restoration (see above).
2. Read the instructions for preparing the mixture indicated on the acrylic jar.
3. Mix acrylic and hardener according to instructions. To mix, use a drill with an attachment. Stir the mixture at low speed with the drill. Mix for at least 10 minutes.
4. Take plastic cup and plug the drain hole with it.
5. Pour ready mixture into the container you will use to fill it.
6. Start pouring the mixture from the top edges of the bath, smoothly pouring the acrylic from the container onto the surface.
7. Pour the mixture around the entire perimeter of the bath, allowing it to flow freely to the bottom.
8. Fill the walls of the bathtub.
9. Take a rubber or wooden spatula and use it to evenly distribute the mixture over the edges of the bath.
10. Use a spatula to push the mixture that has accumulated at the bottom of the bath onto the walls again and let the acrylic drain again.
11. Using a spatula, spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the bath, then remove the plastic glass from the drain hole and allow the excess acrylic to drain into a pre-set container.
12. Watch for the formation of smudges. If you find any leakage, smooth it out with a rubber spatula.
13. If hair or debris gets on the flooded surface, remove it in a timely manner using the tip of a knife or needle.
14. If air bubbles are detected, lightly blow the surface with a hair dryer.
15. Once pouring is complete, allow the tub to dry for 48 hours.
16. Once the bathtub is dry, install the drain, overflow and baseboard.
17. Paint your bathtub with outside metal paint or cover with a decorative border.

Bathtub restoration using acrylic mixture is complete!

List of tools and materials for acrylic restoration:

• Drill with attachment.
• Plastic glass and container for pouring.
• Rubber or wooden spatula.
• Knife or needle.
• Construction hairdryer.
• Wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Brushes or spray gun.
• Sealant.
• Acrylic.
• Hardener.
• Paint for metal.
• Skirting board.
• Decorative board.

WITH detailed instructions on restoring a bathtub with acrylic, you can also watch the video:

Surface restoration using enamel

Restoring a bathtub using enamel is much cheaper than other options, but it has its drawbacks. Firstly, this is the service life of the restored surface, which is significantly shorter than that of acrylic coatings. Secondly, in order for the enamel layer to be as good as the acrylic coating, high professionalism is required when applying the enamel. Thirdly, enamel is more susceptible to mechanical damage than acrylic.


If, despite all the shortcomings, you decide to restore the bathtub with enamel, then do the following:

1. Prepare the bathtub for renovation (see above).
2. Read the instructions on the packaging of the purchased enamel. There are two types of enamel, ready for use and requiring the addition of a hardener.
3. Mix hardener and enamel in the proportions specified in the instructions.
4. Please note that the enamel surface is applied to the bath in two layers, so you will need two cans of enamel. The second can of enamel is opened and mixed with hardener only after the first layer has dried.
5. Using a wide brush, apply the first coat of enamel to the bathtub. Try to apply the enamel without leaving streaks or smudges. Promptly remove debris and brush hairs that have fallen onto the surface.
6. Due to the increased load on the bottom of the bathtub, it needs to be painted twice.
7. After the first layer has dried, mix a second can of enamel with hardener.
8. Apply a second coat of enamel to the tub.
9. Time completely dry enamels, each manufacturer has its own, you can find it in the instructions or on the packaging. After the enamel has completely dried, install the drain, overflow, baseboard and decorative edge.

Bathtub enamel coating is complete!

Tools and materials needed to restore a bathtub with enamel:

• Drill with attachment.
• Wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Tassels.
• Sealant.
• Enamel.
• Hardener.
• Skirting board.
• Decorative board.

You can also watch how to restore a bathtub using enamel in the video:

Restoring a bathtub using a liner

The main problem with this restoration option is selecting a liner that exactly matches the shape of your bathtub. This problem is especially acute for owners of antique and non-standard bathtubs. If you have a standard and relatively new bathtub, you will not have problems finding an insert.


To install the liner you need to do the following:

1. Prepare the bathtub for restoration as described above.
2. By using electric jigsaw or hacksaws, cut off the safety edge from the edges of the liner.
3. Place the liner in the bathtub and mark the drain hole and overflow.
4. Remove the liner from the bathtub and drill holes according to the markings.
5. Sand the edges of the holes with fine-grit sandpaper.
6. Apply sealant around the edges of the drain and overflow.
7. Apply strips of polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of subsequent expansion over the entire surface of the bathtub. The stripes should be located at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from each other. Under no circumstances use regular polyurethane foam, this may cause the liner to become deformed.
8. Install the liner on the bathtub and install the drain with overflow.
9. Fill the bathtub with water to press the liner more tightly to the bathtub.
10. Leave the bath with water for 24 hours until the foam dries completely.
11. Drain the water and remove the protective film from the liner.
12. Install a baseboard and a decorative edge on the bathtub.

Installation of the liner is complete!

Tools and materials required to install the liner:

• Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for metal.
• Drill with attachment for large holes.
• Wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Sandpaper.
• Polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of subsequent expansion.
• Skirting board.
• Decorative board.
• Acrylic liner.

You can also watch how to install an acrylic liner in the video:

Correction of minor defects on the surface of the bathtub

If one or two small chips or small cracks appear on the surface of the bathtub, it is not entirely reasonable to carry out a complete restoration. In such cases, it is enough to make minor repairs and eliminate defects.

Repairing chips on a cast iron bathtub

For repair you will need:

• Automotive putty.
• Enamel of the same color with coating.
• Sandpaper.
• Solvent.
• Brush.
• Putty knife.

Dry the chipped area and sand it with sandpaper. Pry the edges of the chip with a knife and remove the loose pieces of enamel. Degrease the surface of the chip with solvent and cover it with automotive putty. After drying, the level of the putty should be slightly below the level of the enamel. Sand the putty area with sandpaper. Using a brush, apply a layer of enamel to the putty. After the enamel has dried, you can use the bath again.

Repairing a chip on an acrylic bathtub

Sheet acrylic from which it is made acrylic bathtub, quite resistant to mechanical damage. But there are times when, due to objects with sharp corners falling into the bathtub, chips form on the surface and the need for repairs arises.

To remove a chip in an acrylic bathtub you will need:

• Acrylic of the same color as the bathtub cover.
• Hardener.
• Solvent.
• Rubber spatula.
• Fine-grit sandpaper.

Dry the chipped area and sand it with sandpaper. Remove dust and degrease the chip with a solvent. Mix not a large number of acrylic with hardener. You need to get a mixture of strong viscosity, otherwise the acrylic will leak out of the damaged area. Apply the mixture to the chip using a spatula and level the surface and the damaged area. Allow the acrylic to dry for 48 hours before you can use the bathtub.

Removing stains and rust

Usually, to remove stubborn stains and rust from the surface of the bathtub, using a high-quality detergent is enough. But in particularly difficult cases, you can use hydrochloric acid to remove contaminants.

Apply the acid to the contaminated area for 3-5 minutes. After this, wipe the area with a washcloth until the stain disappears and rinse off the acid with water.
Please note that hydrochloric acid emits toxic fumes and can burn the skin, therefore, when working with it, you must use gloves, safety glasses and a respirator.

Questions and answers on bathtub restoration

In this section, we will try to answer the most common questions regarding the restoration of bathtubs.

Question: What material is best to use for bathtub restoration?

Answer: The choice of material largely depends on financial opportunities. The most economical option restoration, it is considered to cover the bathtub with enamel, and the most expensive is the use of an acrylic liner. As for the quality of the coating and its service life, the acrylic liner comes first, its service life is 10-15 years. In second place is acrylic coating, service life from 5 to 15 years, depending on operating conditions and quality of filling. And last but not least is the enamel coating, which lasts up to 5 years.

Question: Is it possible to restore a bathtub at home?

Answer: Yes, you can. To do this, carefully read the materials and videos presented in our article. Be sure to follow the instructions for use of restoration materials.

Question: How can I give the coating my favorite color?

Answer: Of course, it is best to buy enamel or acrylic of the desired shade. But if there is a need to change the color of the mixture, then during the mixing process, you can always add dye.

Question: How much does it cost to restore a bathtub when contacting specialists?

Answer: The cost of restoration depends on the region and the cost of the consumables used. Below we provide a list approximate prices for the restoration of bathtubs, depending on the type of coating:

• Restoration with liquid acrylic - from 3,000 to 6,000 rubles.
• Restoration with enamel - from 2000 to 5000 rubles.
• Restoration using an insert - from 5,000 to 12,000 rubles.

We hope that the information presented in our article was useful to you!

Many apartments still have old bathtubs. We don't change them for many reasons, but one of the main ones is financial costs. In this article we will look at several ways that will allow you to return original appearance bathtubs, while saving on the work of dismantling and installing the bathtub.

Over the years, the bathtub can lose its original gloss, become rough and have scratches from various objects. Old bathtubs often show rust stains, which significantly spoil the interior of your home.

Purchase new bath may be a way out, but for complete replacement Often you have to renovate the entire bathroom, which takes time and money.

Ways to restore a bathtub

In order to save money and time, it is worth considering restoring bathtubs on your own.

Today, the most popular are three main methods of restoring the coating of old bathtubs:

1. The poured acrylic method - the previously prepared surface of the bath is filled with a two-component composition based on acrylic and a hardener. In this way, you can not only renew the coating, but also hide some flaws in the form of unevenness.
   Apply by pouring onto the surface, starting from the top, without using a brush.
   In general, there are several types of acrylic for bathtubs - liquid acrylic, self-leveling acrylic and acrylic coating, they all have some differences, but in general the application technology is the same for all.
2. Enameling - this method already uses enamel, preferably with a hardener, but unlike acrylic, it is applied with a brush. Making a surface without smudges is more difficult than using acrylic, but it is more cost-effective.
3. Application of acrylic liners - this method does not require any liquid work other than cleaning the bathtub itself. It is considered the fastest and most durable of the rest.

Each of these methods differs in the process and cost, but they are all similar in that after the work, according to all the rules, you will have a bathtub as if it was just from a store.

In addition, by doing the restoration yourself you will save family budget, you will be completely confident that everything is done according to the rules and will gain invaluable experience in self-repair your apartment.

Preparing the bath for restoration

Regardless of how you decide to restore your bathtub - liquid acrylic, enamel or using a liner - you need to carefully prepare the surface.

All preparation work is carried out in order to increase adhesion (adhesion) old surface with new material. Because the more responsible you are at the cleaning stage, the better the quality of the finishing coating you will get.

To clean the surface of the bathtub from the old coating you will need:

• an electric drill with an attachment in the form of a metal brush or a grinding wheel (an alternative is to use a grinder with attachments, but it will be safer to use a drill);
• if you don’t have an electric drill, then use coarse sandpaper (it’s better to add more abrasive powder);
• respirator with safety glasses;
• vacuum cleaner or broom;
• degreaser;
• rust converter, if there is even a small spot of rust that has appeared, then it is a must.

Removal of the old coating is carried out in the following sequence:

Restoration with enamel

The oldest of all the others, since the bathtubs were covered with enamel at the factory, the enamel coating was restored. But simple enamel is not suitable for this. We use a special bath enamel that does not contain harmful substances released when heated.

The enamel is applied in several layers, sometimes up to 4, to more thoroughly hide all defects in the bathtub.

Advantages of this method:

• One of the cheapest.
• No need to produce dismantling work, can be used even if the edges of the bathtub are recessed into the tiles; you only need to remove the drains.
• Suitable for restoring both cast iron and thin iron.

Flaws:

• Short service life of the coating compared to other restorations.
• Enamels turn yellow over time.
• Hardened enamel can chip from strong impacts.
• A long process of hardening and curing (the bath can be used no earlier than after 5-6 days).
• To hide the unevenness of the bathtub, it may be necessary to apply up to 3-4 layers, but perfect option not guaranteed.

The amount you will spend using this method depends on the material you will use and the size of your bathtub. Material for standard bath up to 1.5 m will cost from 2000 rubles. ( Russian manufacturers), up to 4000 rub. (foreign companies).

Application process

Some craftsmen do not dismantle the drains during coating, this is not correct, why do you need the additional costs of replacing the siphon and the difficulty of cleaning the pipes from paint? Therefore, dismantle the drain and place an unnecessary basin or jar under the hole where the remains will drain. Lay several layers of newspaper on the floor around the edges of the bathtub; cleaning the floor from paint is an extremely unpleasant and time-consuming procedure.

• It is better to apply enamel to a heated surface, so while you are warming up the bath, prepare the material by mixing the enamel with the hardener in the indicated proportions.

Any workforce has its own work time for application, take this into account when preparing the material. It is better to divide the composition into 2 parts and mix them in stages so that the enamel does not have time to harden in the container while you are applying the first layer.

Advice: It is best to use hard fluted (flat) brushes at least 70 mm wide with natural bristles for application. When applying, carefully monitor the fallen hairs, remove them immediately, it is convenient to do this with a stationery knife.

• For convenience, place the container with paint on the bottom of the bath. Using a brush, carefully brush the edges of the bathtub thin layer. This layer acts as a primer and fills small surface dimples.
• After finishing the edges, we begin to apply paint to the sides of the bathtub. We dip the brush into the container and draw a strip from the top edge to the bottom, then stretch the strip in transverse directions, thus applying a uniform layer of small thickness. We process the entire perimeter of the bathtub.
• The next step is to carefully treat the bottom of the bathtub, Special attention paying attention to the location where the drain is installed.
• Then we apply the second layer in the same sequence as the first, without waiting for the paint to dry (this is the wet-on-wet method). We also rub this layer in thoroughly so that no smudges form.
• Dilute the rest of the paint and apply last layer enamel in the same sequence - from top to bottom, then stretch the paint evenly from the strip to the sides, and again several times from top to bottom on the stretched area.
• Control the enamel layer; a layer that is too thick will definitely leak. Control is carried out with a brush; if it glides too easily, it means the layer is thick, disperse it with a brush from top to bottom.
• Pour the remaining paint into the bath and spread evenly over the bottom with a brush.
• After applying the last layer, wait 10-15 minutes and check the entire surface for smudges. The smudges are smeared with a brush, but only with movements from bottom to top. Periodically check the bath several more times until the enamel has set enough to not leak.
• Rinse off all paint from all instruments and leave the bath to dry for 4-6 days. Under no circumstances start using the bathroom earlier, as you will undo all your hard work.

Do not attach the siphon to the drain until the enamel is completely dry, otherwise the siphon bowl will stick tightly and the next time you repair or replace it, you will damage the enamel when removing the bowl.
Also be sure to trim the enamel drops from outside drain hole, otherwise the siphon will not fit tightly and the bath will leak.

Restoration using poured acrylic method

This type of restoration differs from enamel in the method of application; there is no need to use a brush; acrylic is applied by pouring over the surface.

To evenly distribute the acrylic over the surface of the bath, you can use a rubber or metal spatula.

Pros and cons of this method

Advantages:

• Drying time of the coating - the bathtub can be used after 1.5-5 days.
• Unlike the liner, there is no adhesive gap between the acrylic and the bathtub, this significantly increases the strength of the coating.
• Acrylic does not turn yellow over time and is resistant to various acidic environments.
• Suitable for restoration of cast iron and iron bathtubs.
• Long service life of the coating (with correct application and care up to 10-15 years)

Flaws:

• Acrylic is afraid high temperatures, it begins to melt at 160 degrees, of course we don’t wash in such boiling water, but there are cases when acrylic was deformed by exposure to boiling water from a tap (this is more likely to be true for fake acrylic coatings).
• Caring for acrylic requires the use of special detergents.
• The mechanical fragility of acrylic can lead to cracks when heavy objects fall into the bathtub.

In terms of financial costs, it is not much different from enameling; you will spend from 3,000 to 5,000 rubles on restoring a bathtub.

Application process

• Protect the surrounding area from possible contamination with acrylic, lay several layers of newspapers or film on the floor, seal the walls around the edges of the bathtub masking tape, be sure to remove the siphon. If you still have a Soviet metal harness installed, dismantle it completely and later replace it with modern removable ones.
  Moisture can accumulate in the joints between the wall and the bathtub; use a hairdryer to drive the water out of all the cracks so that it does not spoil the coating.
  Place an unnecessary container under the drain hole to collect leaking acrylic.
• Pour the hardener into the container with the acrylic and mix thoroughly; poorly mixed acrylic with the hardener can cause yellow spots in the future, so pay special attention to this stage.
• Using a cut bottle or a plastic cup pour acrylic onto the sides of the bathtub, starting from the corner farthest from you, so that it flows down freely.
• We pour acrylic around the entire perimeter of the bathtub, trying to avoid a large accumulation of it in one place.

• The joint with the wall can be corrected with a spatula.
• When you have poured all the edges, pour the side opposite from you, and then the one closest to you.
• Using a rubber spatula, spread the acrylic over the entire surface of the sides, do not be afraid to lift the acrylic to the top, it flows perfectly.
• When the entire surface of the bathtub is filled with acrylic, carefully inspect it for the presence of bubbles, remove any existing bubbles by bursting them with the tip of a metal spatula or using a brush (small grooves from the brush should be tightened due to the fluidity of the acrylic).
• Using a metal spatula, work the entire bottom of the tub in a Z-shape motion to compact the acrylic.
• Use a spatula to scrape up any drops on the edge of the tub.
• Leave the coating to dry for at least 2 days.

Advice: When the entire surface is ready, you can level it with a hairdryer, only using cold air!

In the video you can clearly see the process of working with poured acrylic.

Restoration with acrylic liners

This method appeared even earlier than the previous one, its essence lies in the fact that a liner is selected for the bathtub, which most accurately follows the shape of the bathtub. That liner is attached with special glue.

Pros and cons of this method

Advantages:

• Durability of acrylic liner.
• Does not turn yellow over time.
• The surface does not require leveling; it is initially perfectly flat.
• Availability of various shades.

Flaws:

• Not suitable for installation in iron and thin cast iron baths due to the tendency to bend.
• Due to the presence of an adhesive seam, the acrylic insert may come off over time under the influence of variable loads.
• It cannot be installed in a bathtub whose edges are covered with tiles; dismantling work will have to be carried out.
• Any uneven surfaces on the bathtub can become a weak point for the liner.

Liner installation process

The glue will finally set no earlier than 10 days, during which time try to avoid excessive pressure on the edges of the bath, otherwise the liner may become deformed or skewed. But you can safely take a bath these days, only carefully.

Be sure to watch the video that clearly shows the process of installing an acrylic liner in a bathtub.

If you have any questions or suggestions, you can ask them in the comments below.

Over time, even very high-quality coating the bathtub is in poor shape. Unremovable stains, stains, rust, as well as chips, scratches and other damage appear on the surface. And every owner has the thought of replacing equipment. But this process is very difficult to perform and expensive. In addition, often old bathtubs were made of cast iron, which makes it very heavy, therefore, even the removal process will not be the easiest. Therefore, many are trying to restore old bathtubs.

Fortunately, even very damaged enamel coating of a bathtub can be restored, because your performance characteristics the bathtub preserves entirely. Thanks to modern technologies It is possible to restore the old enamel coating. But is it worth doing?

Is there any point in restoring old bathtubs?

Before starting restoration, calculate how much a new bathtub will cost

To understand whether it makes sense to repair your old bath, you need to estimate how much it will cost to replace old equipment and accordingly draw a conclusion about its feasibility. To do this, you will have to add to the cost of the bath the costs of dismantling old equipment and delivering new equipment, as well as lifting and descending from the floor, in the case of living in an apartment. In addition, installing a new bathtub also costs money, but often, in addition to installing the equipment, you have to repair the old wall and floor covering, partially or entirely.

Based on the procedures described above, it turns out that replacing the bathtub will entail partial or complete renovation bathroom. Therefore, replacing a bathtub makes sense during an apartment renovation. Otherwise, resuscitate old bath it will be much more profitable.

Often, not everyone can afford the impressive costs of replacement, so let’s look at options for restoring an old bathtub. On this moment There are only three recovery methods:

• renewal of enamel coating method manual application;
• applying liquid acrylic (stacryl);
• installation of the finished acrylic liner.

Before you repair an old bathtub, you should consider each process separately, because they have their own characteristics. But first you need to understand the cause of enamel wear.

What are the reasons for wear of the enamel coating?

The cause of enamel wear is considered to be bad water and poor bathroom maintenance

Over time, the enamel coating is affected by various factors that contribute to premature wear, but there are main reasons:

• poor quality tap water, the content of aggressive substances and unrefined abrasive particles;
• the use of abrasive and chlorine-containing substances and materials during bath cleaning;
• If chemical reagents are often used to clean water pipes, this also negatively affects the enamel.

All these conditions, of course, do not take effect immediately, but over time the enamel coating becomes thinner, rust appears from under it, and the surface becomes rough and unpleasant to the touch.

From here it is easy to conclude how to delay the (alas, inevitable) wear of the enamel as late as possible.

Restoration methods

When the moment for the bathtub coating to become unusable has finally arrived, and a complete replacement of the bathtub has been deemed impractical, the time comes to choose one of the restoration methods.

Applying enamel

Applying enamel to the surface with a brush

Among all restoration methods, enamel application is the oldest and most widely used method. This method is very similar to painting, with the exception of the material used, because special enamel is used during restoration. Among enamel paints for restoring bathtubs, there are two types:

• professional enamels for industrial application - are very liquid and are most often applied by spraying in several layers;
• simple enamels for manual application - used for self-use and have a thicker structure, which allows it to be applied with a roller or brush in 1-2 layers.

Among the advantages of this method of restoring damaged coatings are:

• low cost of application and material;
• During repairs, dismantling of equipment, drain and overflow hoses is not required;
• it doesn’t matter which bathtub is cast iron or steel, enamel is suitable for both types.

Enamel in cans is used for local restoration

Unfortunately, this type of restoration has more disadvantages than advantages, among them the following stand out:

• the post-repair period of operation of the updated coating does not exceed 5-8 years;
• due to the increased fragility of the new coating, it does not withstand impacts that can lead to chipping;
• The drying time for the renewed coating of an old bathtub is 5-7 days;
• over time, yellow spots appear on the coating or the entire surface becomes yellow;
• since the enamel is not applied in thick layers, the possibility of hiding defects such as dents, chips, bumps, etc. is eliminated.

Repairing an old bathtub with your own hands using enamel paint is the cheapest and least quality, since the updated coating is much softer than the factory one. Therefore, surface care should be gentle.

Tip: Instead of using abrasive and chemical cleaners, as well as hard sponges, use a mild soap solution. In addition, it is strictly forbidden to hit the surface with any metal objects and fill the bath too much. hot water. The set of water should start with cold and gradually add hot.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

Liquid acrylic has long term services

Restoring an old bathtub using two-component acrylic is a new and simplest method.

Reference: Stacryl is used as a restoring liquid, which is a two-component acrylic filler used directly for bathtubs. The liquid contains acrylic and a special hardener, during mixing of which the material polymerizes.

The application process is quite simple. Diluted stacrylic is gradually poured onto the previously prepared surface in an even layer, which forms a reliable coating on the surface. This recovery method has the following advantages:

• Durability of the coating. If the application procedure and operating conditions of the new coating are competent and thorough, then the service life can be 15-20 years;
• Elimination of defects. By applying the new coating in a sufficiently thick layer, which is 4-6 mm, the majority of surface defects are eliminated. For example, chips, dents, pores, etc.;
• Perfectly smooth glossy finish. Since glass is a fairly thick material at its base, when it spreads it fills and eliminates various defects, and an almost perfect glossy coating is formed on the surface;
• Speed ​​of operation. Liquid acrylic is very easily and quickly applied to the surface due to the extreme simplicity of the technology;
• Absolute safety. Glasscryl has no sharp unpleasant odors, which allows it to be used even in places with poor ventilation. Using this material, you can not fear for the health of your loved ones, even if there are allergy sufferers, elderly people and children in the house.

The disadvantages of this restoration method include:

• Finishing an old bathtub in this way has a long drying time, which is about 3 days. During this period, it is forbidden to touch the bathtub and, in general, to come close, so as not to bring various debris to the surface in the form of dust, water, hair, etc.;
• Another disadvantage is the high cost of finishing compared to enameling. Although these costs are justified by a longer service life and a more wear-resistant coating.

Installing an acrylic repair liner

Acrylic liner is stronger than liquid acrylic

Old bathtubs are also repaired using the “bath-in-bath” method using a special acrylic insert that is glued inside the old equipment. To carry out the operation, a special adhesive foam is used; it is applied to the surface of the old bathtub, after which the liner is installed. If all the preparatory and repair procedures Produced correctly, the service life can be 15 years.

Among the positive qualities of this restoration method are:

• the strength of the acrylic liner is much higher than that of the enamel coating;
• the new surface completely hides all possible coating defects;
• on acrylic liner yellow spots do not appear over time;
• this restoration method allows you to connect everything positive traits cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.

Despite all the advantages of this method, there are also disadvantages:

• before installing the acrylic insert, you need to disconnect the bath from the siphon, which is quite difficult to do with old products;
• in the case where the bath is made of “thin cast iron”, which can bend, installing the liner is prohibited, since bending the equipment may damage the integrity of the adhesive and cause the liner to fall off;

A few words about preparatory measures

In all restoration options, preliminary cleaning of the surface is necessary.

Although all restoration methods differ from each other, preliminary preparation surfaces are almost the same. So how to make an old bath new and what you will need for this:

• First of all, before starting restoration, the surface of the bath is completely cleaned, that is, all complex contaminants are removed;
• Then all surface defects are smoothed out, namely scratches, dimples, and the entire surface is ground. This procedure is performed using fine-grain sandpaper;
• Immediately before application, the resulting dust and debris is cleaned, and then everything is degreased.

Important! Sanding and degreasing increases the adhesion of the material to the surface, and, consequently, the quality and durability of the finish.

How to care for a restored surface?

Apply detergents without abrasives

When cleaning the bathroom, it is strictly prohibited to use various materials, which include:

• Use of any abrasive substances, such as cleaning powders. After all, scratches form on the surface, and the coating quickly loses its original quality. this type;
• Funds are prohibited household chemicals, which include: industrial alcohol, ammonia, acetone, formaldehyde, solvents and strong acids;
• Cigarette stains and small scratches (up to 2 mm) are removed using “zero” sandpaper, that is, the finest;
• Cleaning with metal brushes and dry.
• It is highly undesirable to wash pets, dye hair, or get mousses and varnishes on the surface in restored baths.

To the question “How to make a bath new?” we can responsibly say that everything depends on care; restoration is already a consequence of improper cleaning that has been going on for many years. Therefore, to make the bath as good as new you need:

• The bathtub can only be washed with a soft cloth or sponge, which will help preserve glossy surface ideal for as long as possible;
• Rust stains can be removed using a solution of vinegar or lemon juice;
• For cleaning, use a mild cleaning agent, which is applied for 7-10 minutes, after which it is removed with a soft cloth and a stream of water;
• In hydromassage systems, cleaning occurs a little differently. The bath is filled with water with the addition of a cleaning agent and turned on for 5-10 minutes, after which it is left with the liquid for another 10-15 minutes. Then the liquid is drained and everything is washed with a stream of water and a soft cloth.

We draw conclusions: restoration or replacement?

Use soft cloth or sponge for cleaning the bathtub

If you have any doubts about what is the best way to cover an old bathtub, you should seek advice from specialists or study their reports. Of course, the choice remains with the owner. If the repair is required as a cosmetic one and for a short period of time in order to make a replacement during the repair, then you should choose the cheapest option, that is, manual enameling. But when you need a budget but durable coating, it is best to use glass. The latter method is the most expensive and is not suitable for temporary repairs.

To prevent the question of how to restore an old bathtub from arising for a very long time, you need to use only high-quality and proven materials for repairs and strictly adhere to processing technology. You can see the nuances of the technology in the video.

During renovations, you want to put things in order everywhere, including the bathroom. New wall covering, beautiful ceiling, fresh plumbing... There’s just one important nuance– an old bathtub with a terrible yellowed and cracked coating, on the surface of which there may be some pretty scary black chips. Changing this element of convenience in an apartment is not as easy as it seems, and it is also an expensive pleasure. But there is a way out. A coating that has lost its appearance can be restored quite quickly and cheaply. In this case, it will be easy to cope without the help of professionals. Restoring the enamel coating of a bathroom with your own hands is quite possible and will not require huge amounts of money.

Why “save” the bathtub?

Before you learn how to revive an old bathroom coating without completely replacing it, you should understand why you need to restore it at all. Why isn't it easier to buy and install a new one?

A new bathroom costs a lot of money, especially a high-quality cast iron one. Of course, you can buy an ordinary metal one, but it causes some discomfort to the residents living in the apartment: filling with water is accompanied by loud sound, which even neighbors can hear in thin-walled houses.

You still need to manage to install the new bathtub while dismantling the old one. And this is not as simple as it seems. Such work will entail a large amount of debris, and heavy one at that. At the same time, women will not be able to cope with it - in any case, strong male hands are needed and those who dismantle everything will bear it. And probably anyone can simply apply a new enamel coating.

Fortunately, the factory enamel in the bathtub is quite durable, and some apartment owners do not even have to deal with such a procedure as restoring it. This can be achieved thanks to the special technology used for application. The bathtub blank is subjected to strong heating and only then covered protective coating, that is, enamel. In theory, it can last for centuries, but due to constant cleaning and treatment of the bathtub, this does not happen. On the contrary, the bathtub slowly but surely loses its appearance, the enamel turns yellow and becomes not smooth to the touch, but rough.

Yes, enamel is needed not only for beauty - it also protects the bathtub from the effects of various aggressive factors (for example, cleaning agents, water of different temperatures). Without enamel, the metal loses some of its qualities - for example, at the site of damage, cast iron will begin to rust, and the rust will spread further and further, destroying the product.

Attention! If the damage to the enamel is not repaired in a timely manner, then rust can destroy the entire product or radically change the appearance of the bathtub.

Of course, it is impossible to create factory conditions in an apartment, and it is also impossible to restore the enamel perfectly. But it can still be reapplied, which will help restore the bathtub to a beautiful and tidy appearance. And this - without unnecessary financial and physical costs.

Note! , applied at home yourself, will not last as long as a factory-made one, but it is still capable of turning your old bathtub into a new one for quite a long time. But you need to handle it with care - it is less resistant to mechanical/chemical influences and can even change color due to contact with certain substances.

In general, the following recovery methods now exist appearance bathroom

1. Acrylic coating- the so-called filling bath. The interior of the structure is filled with liquid acrylic.
2. Acrylic liner– sold in construction stores or made to order. Placed in the bathtub.
3. Replacing an old bathtub with a new one.
4. Enamel coating- simply put, applying special paint to the inner surface of the bowl.

What will you need?

In order to carry out restoration work, you will need certain materials and tools:

• respirator;
• brush, roller for applying enamel;
• old clothes or apron;
• rubber gloves;
• sanding machine or sandpaper;
• old rags;
• primer;
• acetone;
• bath restoration kit – in other words, bath enamel.

Now on construction market present big choice various enamels for baths, aimed at both professionals and home craftsmen. At the same time, if you are a beginner, it is better to purchase the simplest option - it will not require any special skills to use. Such enamels are sold both in aerosol cans and in cans (applied with a brush or small roller).

Note! It is best to use the composition that is intended for application with a brush - it covers the old coating perfectly and is easy to work with. Aerosol products are chosen when you need to restore a small chip - in this case, the enamel does not lie uniformly.

A bath restoration kit usually contains two components - a hardener and the enamel itself. There should also be a preparation that will help prepare the bathtub itself for painting. By the way, replacing the enamel is an excellent option for choosing a new bathtub color. The latter can be painted blue, red, green and other colors using special colors.

Table. Bathroom restoration kits.

Name	Description
"Reflex-50"	This set is intended for use by professionals; it is very liquid, so it will be difficult for a beginner to work with it. To cover the old coating, you will need to apply the composition several times. Restoring the bathtub will take at least a week, since each layer must be dried thoroughly. But the coverage is excellent.
"Svetlana and Fantasia"	These are enamels of medium thickness, they are easy to apply without spreading much, which is optimal for an inexperienced restorer. Easy to apply with a brush. The kit also includes a preparation that is used to treat the surface of the bath before starting work. You can use special colors.
"Epoksin-51"	Thick, quite viscous enamel, which is applied with a brush - the whole complexity of the work lies in the thickness. At the same time, the enamel spreads perfectly, leaving no streaks. Does not require preliminary puttying. Dries in at least 2 days.
	A group of drugs that are not essentially enamel. They cover the surface well and are easy to apply – just pour this product over the bathtub.

Preparing the bath for the procedure

Before you start coating the bathtub with new enamel, you should definitely prepare the surface to be treated. It should become smooth and as light as possible.

Step 1. The bathtub is cleaned of rust. They will help with this special drugs acid based. Many of them are quite effective. For example, a drug based of hydrochloric acid will remove red spots in just 10 minutes, but it will also destroy all the remaining enamel in whole pieces. It is also important to rinse this product thoroughly from the surface of the bath and be sure to follow the instructions for use. There are also more gentle preparations that deal with rust less quickly, but still effectively. Products based on oxalic acid work well, acting more accurately than drugs based on hydrochloric acid. Preparations of the latter type are washed off with water after 30-40 minutes.

Step 2. Next, you need to roughen the surface of the bathtub from the inside - for this you use either sandpaper or a grinding machine. The latter will significantly speed up the work. It is important to thoroughly clean all chips and cracks.

Step 3. After work grinder It is necessary to wash off all dust and dirt from the surface of the bath. After this, the surface is degreased with acetone.

Step 4. Next stage– applying a primer, for example, GF-020. The layer of this substance should be well dried for about two days.

Advice! A reflector will help speed up the drying process. And by the way, it is not necessary to apply a primer.

Step 5. Now you should warm up the bath well - fill it with hot water. But you can also use a hair dryer - in this case, you will not need to dry the bath additionally.

Now the bathtub is ready for refinishing.

Bathtub enamel coating

We continue restoration work. Now we move on to covering the bathtub with enamel from the inside.

Step 1. The restoration kit is prepared for use in accordance with the instructions. The enamel should be well mixed until smooth.

Step 2. Using a brush, the enamel is applied in long or short strokes. Long from top to bottom and bottom to top, and then right-left or short from bottom-up-right-left. Corners and areas near drain holes are carefully painted.

Step 3. In this way, the enamel is applied several times. Each layer must be thoroughly dried in accordance with the instructions.

Prices for bath enamel

bath enamel

Video - Enameling a bathtub

Chips and scratches

To return former beauty enamel, you don’t always need to resort to drastic measures and paint the entire bathtub. Sometimes it’s enough just to repair chips and scratches. It's not that difficult to do.

For example, from minor scratches A mixture of dry whitewash and BF-2 glue will help get rid of it. It is simply applied to those places where there is minor damage. In this case, it should be applied in several layers so that the latter does not protrude above the surface of the main enamel coating. It is convenient to apply the substance with a regular brush.

For deeper chips, a preparation based on nitro enamel is suitable, to which “Super Cement” is added - a special construction adhesive. The mixture is prepared in a 1:1 ratio. The resulting substance is also applied in layers, each of which is given time to dry (about 24 hours).

A mixture of zinc white and epoxy (1:2) will also help to cope with severe damage. Mix according to the rules epoxy resin, the remaining components are added to it. Zinc white can be easily replaced with porcelain shards. Such a mixture applied to the chip site will take at least 5 days to dry, but it will serve for many years.

When carrying out this work, you should make sure that the color of the enamel and the paint that will be used to restore the scratch match. Otherwise, the bath will be spotty.

And finally, some valuable and useful tips.

Attention! All chemicals, with the help of which restoration work is carried out, are poisonous and dangerous to health, so personal safety measures cannot be neglected. If the work is carried out incorrectly, there is a high risk of ending up in the hospital.

Restoring a bathtub by replacing the old enamel with a new one is a completely do-it-yourself way to restore the product to its former beauty. At the same time, the new coating will serve for at least 5 years if treated with care. Of course, you'll have to paint the bathtub again later, but considering how much cheaper this type of work is than all others, it's definitely worth it. By the way, an important factor influencing the long service life of enamel is chemical composition water. It is also advisable to take this into account when choosing a bath restoration method.

Restoration is a great chance to change the color of the bathtub

A bathtub, no matter what material it is made from, ages gradually. Over time, its enamel becomes not as snow-white as it was before; during use, the surface of the product loses its smoothness and becomes covered with small cracks or chips.

All these traces of intensive use lead to the fact that the appearance of the washing container deteriorates and it becomes unhygienic to use. However, immediately run to the plumbing store to buy new bath Still, it’s not worth it, because restoring a bathtub with your own hands, even at home, can permanently increase its service life. In this article we will talk about the most effective ways restoration of cast iron and steel acrylic models, as well as when they can be used.

How do you know if your bathtub needs renovation?

Some types of bathtubs can be successfully used for several decades, maintaining performance characteristics for high level. However, with intensive use, the washing container loses its original appearance after 5-7 years of service. Bathtub restoration at home is carried out if it has the following defects:

Note! As a rule, the service life of a bathtub is several times longer than the service life of the enamel. The enamel coating is the most vulnerable part of washing containers, which wears out, cracks and turns yellow over time. Good news The fact is that the top covering of the font is quite easy to restore.

What baths can be restored?

Homeowners often wonder if their old bathtub can be restored. To assess whether repairs are possible and what bath restoration kit will be needed, you need to assess the nature and amount of damage. It is believed that the maintainability of the model depends on the thickness of its walls. The main conditions for restoration are:

1. No rust. If there are pockets of corrosion on the surface of the hot tub, they must be removed using a rust converter.
2. No through holes. If there are no through holes in the bowl, then all surface damage can be repaired using acrylic or enamel.
3. High-quality surface preparation. In order for the restoration result to last longer, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the hot tub for work: level, clean, degrease.

Remember that the result of the restoration primarily depends on the quality of the enamel or acrylic, as well as on the preparation of the surface of the bowl for repair.

Re-enamelling

Re-enamelling is the restoration of bathtubs with your own hands by applying a new layer paint coating on the inner surface of a product that is made at home. For this, epoxy enamel is used, applied to the surface of the bowl using a roller, brush or spray in several layers. The features of this recovery method are:

Important! Restoration of cast iron or steel baths Re-enamelling is done using moisture-resistant epoxy enamel, which has low resistance to mechanical damage. Therefore, the result of restoring the appearance of a container for washing using this method lasts no more than 5 years.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

The best way to restore bathtubs at home is by pouring inner surface bowls with liquid acrylic. Acrylic is a modern polymer that is resistant to external influences and has a smooth and shiny surface after hardening. It has a thick consistency, but spreads well, so it is applied to the surface of the container for washing using the pour-on method. Features of the “fill bath” technology are:

To execute or steel bath liquid acrylic, you need to purchase a restoration kit, which consists of a base, a hardener, sandpaper for sanding chips and a rubber spatula for leveling and removing bubbles.

Bathtub renovation with acrylic liner

A universal tool with which you can quickly and easily repair an old bathtub made of cast iron or steel - an acrylic insert. An insert made of light, thin, but durable acrylic is inserted inside the bowl, coated with a special adhesive, and then filled with water, which acts as a press. It only takes 1-2 days for the glue to dry and securely fix the insert. This restoration method has 3 disadvantages:

Remember that with the help of an acrylic insert of the appropriate size and shape, you can repair even severely damaged bathtubs with a large number of chips, cracks and even through holes.

Video instruction