By insulating the balcony, you can achieve two goals at once: expand the living space and improve the degree of thermal insulation of the apartment. It is best to carry out external insulation, but this cannot be done without the services of industrial climbers and the corresponding costs. Insulating a balcony from the inside will cost much less, especially if you do it yourself.

How to insulate a balcony inside

The positive result of the work performed is considered equally comfortable temperature inside the room and the adjacent balcony. There is no point in investing effort and money in insulation that does not protect against the penetration of cold onto the balcony and forces you to tightly close the doors leading to the loggia in winter.

As a rule, for internal insulation of balconies the following is used:

• foamed polystyrene with a density of 25-35 kg/m 3, otherwise - polystyrene foam;
• based on basalt fiber 80-110 kg/m 3 density;
• extruded polystyrene foam (one of its varieties is).

Note! For additional thermal insulation, thin foil polyethylene foam insulation - Izolon or Penofol - is often laid on the base layer.

In addition to the listed insulators, there is another insulating material - ecowool, made from cellulose waste. Simply put, waste paper. The rules for handling it and the installation technology used are the same as with basalt wool. Ecowool is not very popular due to its high cost.

Brief characteristics of insulation

Foam plastic is the cheapest material for insulation, produced in the form of slabs of various thicknesses.

Like all foamed polymers, it repels moisture well and has sufficient strength (at the specified density). It is characterized by high resistance to heat transfer and flammability, which is why it requires protection from an accidental spark.

The thickness of the foam for insulating a balcony in the northern regions should be at least 100 mm; in the southern regions, 50 mm may be enough.

Unlike polystyrene foam, mineral wool does not burn at all, but it is capable of absorbing moisture, after which its thermal conductivity increases sharply. The problem is solved with the help of protective layers of special films, which will be discussed below.

The heat transfer resistance of mineral wool is not very high, so it makes no sense to use material less than 80 mm thick. The insulation is offered in rolls and slabs, and is more expensive than polystyrene.

Advice! You should not insulate your balcony with fiberglass wool (glass wool) intended for outdoor or roofing works. The use of such materials inside residential premises is unacceptable.

The best option for internal insulation of a balcony is extruded polystyrene foam, sold in slabs.

Expanded polystyrene is durable, lightweight and has the best thermal insulation properties.

Where you need to lay mineral wool 100 mm thick, 50 mm of penoplex is enough.

In addition, the polymer does not allow moisture to pass through at all and is so strong that the slab can be screwed on with self-tapping screws if necessary. There is only one drawback - the high price of the material, which is compensated by the long service life of the material - up to 50 years.

Technology for insulating a balcony from the inside

It is necessary to carefully prepare for thermal insulation on the balcony. This includes not only the acquisition of materials and preparation of tools, but also the performance of a number of preliminary works:

1. Construction of a reliable parapet. There are 2 types of structures in practice: a welded metal frame with fastening to the wall or masonry made of foam blocks. How to strengthen a parapet - .
2. . Sometimes the balcony is made panoramic by installing metal-plastic blocks to the full height, without a parapet. Then all that remains is to insulate the floors and ceiling.
3. Elimination of all cracks and leaks leading to the street, removal of excess polyurethane foam.
4. Pad electrical wiring for lighting, as well as drainage and lines with freon to (if available).

Before insulating the inside of the balcony, you need to level all surfaces, removing obvious sagging or filling in depressions and cracks with mortar.

Interior wall decoration

The technology for insulating balcony walls, done with your own hands, depends on the design of the parapet and the type of thermal insulation material. Metal carcass, trimmed on the outside with plastic or, it is better to sheathe it with 2 layers of thermal insulation so that the second row of insulation covers all metal racks that are cold bridges. And with outside, between the cladding and the insulation, a windproof film should be laid.

When insulating a balcony with mineral wool, it is necessary to use not an ordinary film, but a diffusion membrane as a wind barrier. It will let out the moisture that arises in the thickness of the cotton wool, but will not allow it to get wet from precipitation or fog on the street. For polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, the use of a membrane is not necessary; ordinary film will do.

To attach the mineral wool, you will need to assemble with your own hands an additional wooden frame from beams, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the bars is selected according to the width of the material, the latter is placed between them at random. On last stage the thermal insulation layer is covered with a vapor barrier film, after which the frame is covered with clapboard or plasterboard.

Headlining

And the balcony ceiling can be insulated in 3 ways:

1. If you plan to do wallpapering at the end, then the method of gluing slab insulation with a building mixture is suitable. Insulation, accompanied by “wet” processes, is carried out only in the warm period of the year at above-zero temperatures.
2. For a similar finish, you will have to attach wooden blocks to the walls and ceiling, and lay rolled or slab material between them.
3. When insulated with polystyrene foam, the slabs can be directly attached to the walls and ceiling with dowels. After which the surfaces are leveled with putty and painted, or lathing is installed by attaching the bars to foam blocks or concrete through the insulation. Cladding, plastic, plasterboard and other finishes of your choice are easily attached to the sheathing.

Note! For fastening the sheathing to concrete ceiling through polystyrene foam you need to use special concrete screws - frame dowels.

When insulating a balcony mineral wool without wooden frame not enough. You can glue cotton wool, but it is quite difficult. The best option is to insert it between the beams attached to the wall and ceiling, protect it with a vapor barrier and cover it with a suitable material.

The gluing method is convenient when working with polystyrene foam, but after 2 days it must be additionally secured with dowel umbrellas and a layer of plaster applied over the fiberglass mesh.

Video:

Floor insulation

The technology of thermal insulation of balcony floors differs from walls and ceilings, since the insulation “pie” must bear certain dynamic loads and have flat surface. Leveling is carried out by laying wooden logs, between which insulation is laid, and a finishing coating is laid on top. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Cut the wooden beams into cross members along the width of the balcony and secure them to the floor with anchors or self-tapping screws and dowels using steel corners.
2. Attach 3 longitudinal logs to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. In the process, they must be aligned horizontally, starting from the very top point. Using building level, the beams at the intersections with the crossbars should be raised and plastic or wooden wedges placed.
3. Place insulation tightly between the crossbars and the joists. In the case of mineral wool, a vapor barrier must be laid on top of it.
4. Lay the flooring with fastening to the joists.

It is typical that the length of the crossbars and joists do not need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the balcony. It would be more correct to make them 10-20 mm shorter so that the ends do not rest against the walls. Wood has the ability to “breathe” and deform slightly; if the fit is tight, the floor surface may later bend in an arc.

Moreover, walking on such floors will be accompanied by an annoying squeak. The resulting gaps near the walls will hide under the floor covering and become invisible.

When using slab insulation, it is worth choosing the correct spacing of the crossbars so that you do not have to cut the slabs again. The standard width is 600 mm, and this is what you need to focus on. After laying polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, all joints and cracks must be filled polyurethane foam.

Useful training video:

The mineral wool is protected with a vapor barrier as tightly as possible so that moisture from inside the room cannot seep into it. Here you can also use foamed polyethylenes such as Penofol, but pay attention Special attention gluing joints.

If you take a serious and scrupulous approach to the procedure for internal insulation of a balcony, then it is not at all necessary to hire craftsmen and pay them money, which is never superfluous. You will spend twice as much time on completing the work, but you will do everything efficiently and in accordance with your personal wishes. In addition, you will save money on your family budget.

You don’t know how to insulate a balcony in order to spend minimal money and get excellent result? Then this review is for you; it describes simple options for carrying out work that anyone can do. If everything is done correctly, your balcony will be warm even in the most severe frosts.

Preparatory part of the work

First of all, you need to prepare the room for insulation.

At this stage, several important activities are performed:

• The space is freed from all unnecessary. It is best if the balcony is completely empty, then nothing will interfere with the work. If there is an old finish, it is worth removing it in advance;
• All cracks and voids are sealed. This is a very important part of the work, since a lot of heat is lost through loose joints. Small cracks are sealed with weather-resistant sealants. It is best to fill larger joints with polyurethane foam; it will not only prevent moisture from entering, but will also serve as an additional heat insulator;

• The floor and, if necessary, walls are waterproofed. In new buildings, this part of the work may not be required, but if your balcony is damp, then extra protection will not hurt. The easiest way is to use a special mastic based on bitumen, which is applied in a thick layer to the floor and adjacent walls to a height of 20-30 cm. The composition dries for about a day, during which time you cannot walk on the surface;

• Cracks and irregularities in the ceiling and walls are repaired cement mortar . The smoother the base, the easier it will be for you to carry out the work. There is no need for special care; the main thing is to repair all the unevenness and level the surface.

Floor insulation

Considering the question of how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside, we will begin with this part of the structure. Work can be carried out in two ways: by laying insulation between the joists and by pouring screed. I'll talk about both options, and you choose the one that best suits your situation.

Let's start with the option of insulation using joists; instructions for doing the work yourself look like this:

• Required for work following materials : timber for logs, waterproofing for the base, insulation, vapor barrier and finishing coat. I recommend using foam plastic as insulation; its price is low, but the quality is quite suitable for such work. There will be no load on the material, so you can choose sheets with a low density;

• Waterproofing material is laid on the floor. Even if you applied a mastic coating, an extra moisture barrier will not hurt. The film should extend onto the surface of the walls by 20-30 cm, and have overlaps of at least 100 mm at the joints. For additional reliability, I recommend all connections with regular tape;

• The logs are being laid. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the insulation so that you do not end up with waste, usually it is 50-60 cm. As for the height, it should be no less than the thickness of the insulation, I recommend laying a layer of 10-15 centimeters to reliably protect surface from the cold. After placing the elements, all joints are filled with polyurethane foam; it serves as both insulation and fastening;

• Insulation is placed in the spaces between the beams. If you have several layers of material, then the joints between the sheets, if any, should not coincide. Try to lay the foam as densely as possible so that there are fewer voids and cracks on the surface;

• All gaps between foam sheets and beams are filled with foam. This allows you to achieve best quality insulation. The foam is carefully applied wherever needed; 2-3 hours after it has dried, the excess can be cut off with a construction knife;

• The flooring is attached. You can lay a vapor barrier under it, or you can immediately lay a board or sheet materials. If the base is reliably waterproofed, then in an additional protective layer by and large it makes no sense.

Let's consider the second option for carrying out the work.

In this case, floor insulation is done completely differently:

• All are purchased necessary materials . For simplicity and clarity, all information is presented in the table;

Material	Recommendations for selection
Insulation	It is best to use Teploplex insulation (it is also called Technoflex, Teploflex, Penoplex, etc.). It has a very high density and has higher heat retention rates than polystyrene foam. High-density foam can also be used, but it is still less effective
Waterproofing	Any can be used suitable material this type. The film must be laid both under the insulation and on top of it
Reinforcing mesh	To make the screed strong, it is worth laying a special metal mesh. Also purchase beacons for pouring screed; you can take both special elements and a metal profile for drywall
Screed mortar	The easiest way is to purchase ready mixture in bags, which is simply diluted with water before use

To make the screed even more reliable, use a special damper tape. It is laid around the perimeter and allows you to create an expansion joint.

• Stacked waterproofing film . It is placed with overlaps on the walls, and overlaps of 10 cm are made at the joints;
• Insulation sheets are laid on top. They need to be placed as tightly as possible to ensure high-quality thermal insulation of the surface. Extruded polystyrene foam is more convenient than polystyrene foam, since it has grooves at the ends that allow the sheets to be aligned very accurately;

• The film is laid, and a mesh is placed on top of it. Everything is simple here, first the surface is waterproofed, and then a mesh is placed on it. To make the surface durable, make overlaps of 5 cm at the joints of the mesh;
• The beacons are attached and the screed is poured. The beacons are leveled and fixed to the same solution that will be used when pouring the screed. After this, you need to wait at least 12 hours, after which the solution is poured. Everything is easy here: it is evenly distributed over the surface and leveled using a rule or a flat wooden slat.

If you are making a warm floor on the balcony, then after laying the insulation, instead of film, it is better to use a material with a reflective layer. A heated floor system is placed on top of it, after which the beacons are placed and the screed is poured. The layer thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure strength.

Ceiling insulation

This part of the structure can also be thermally insulated in two ways: with and without a frame.

First, let's look at the process of insulation along the sheathing:

• Collecting necessary materials. To work, you need a wooden block, insulation, polyurethane foam and finishing material. The height of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
• Lathing on the ceiling is being constructed. The elements are fastened using quick-installation dowels of the appropriate length. In order to level the structure strictly, slats or pieces of boards are placed under the bars. The installation process itself is simple: holes are drilled in 50 cm increments, after which dowels are inserted and expansion screws are driven in;

• Insulation is placed in the sheathing. Foam or extruded boards are cut exactly to size so that the elements are held in the structure without additional fixation. Mineral wool can also be used, in this case it is better to choose products of medium density;

• All cracks are sealed with foam. All voids are filled with the composition so that the cold cannot penetrate through the cracks. Don’t worry about being careful, all excess can be cut off with a construction knife after the composition has hardened;

• IN last resort finishing is fixed. The frame can be covered with plastic panels, wood, plywood or moisture-resistant plasterboard. It all depends on what kind of interior was planned and what you want to see in the end.

Now let's figure out how to insulate a ceiling without a frame:

• First of all, prepare the ceiling surface. At this stage, you need to clean the base from dust and dirt. If there are cracks at the joints of the slabs, it is best to seal them with polyurethane foam. The surface is also treated with a strengthening primer, it will improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition and provide more reliable fixation of the insulation;
• A special adhesive composition is applied to Penoplex. Glue is used in cylinders, which is reliable and easy to apply. There is no need to apply it completely - spread a little of the composition around the perimeter and in the middle. An example is shown in the photo below;

• The sheet is glued to the ceiling. Everything is simple here: the element is located where it is needed and carefully pressed against the surface. Usually you should hold the sheet for 20-30 seconds, after which it will hold normally, and you can continue working and attach the next fragment;

• For reliability, the material is additionally fixed with dowels. Special fasteners with a wide pressure washer are used . The fungi are attached according to this scheme: two elements at the seams and one in the middle, so the consumption will be small and the reliability of the installation will not be affected. Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled for the dowels; the layout and the finished result can be seen in the picture below;

• The cracks and joints are foamed. Everything is clear here: if necessary, the junctions with the walls and the joints of the sheets are sealed with polyurethane foam. It is applied wherever it is needed. After drying, the excess can be cut off with a construction knife;

• The finishing touches are attached last.. Personally, I think the most practical solution is suspended ceiling– it doesn’t cost much now, the craftsmen will come and install it in a couple of hours. If you want to attach the trim to the sheathing, then the block will have to be nailed to the ceiling through the insulation.

Wall insulation

When considering the question of how to properly insulate a loggia from the inside, one cannot help but talk about the walls. They need to be insulated very carefully, especially those surfaces that face the outside (most often this is the space under the window and one or two side walls).

The wall insulation technology is as follows:

• First of all, materials are prepared. We need a block for the frame, insulation, and also waterproofing membrane. To improve the effect, you can attach a material made of foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer, called Penofol, on top of the insulation;

• A waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the external walls. There is no need to mount it on walls adjacent to living spaces, since cold air does not come from there, which can cause condensation. The material can be fixed only at the top and the joints can be glued. Its final fastening will occur during installation of the sheathing;

• A block is attached to the surface. Its height should be the same as the thickness of the insulation. You can attach thinner material to the internal walls, and it is advisable to lay at least 10 cm on the external walls to create a reliable barrier to the cold. Accordingly, under the window the sheathing is made indented from the base, and on the remaining walls it can be nailed with dowels directly to the surface;

• Insulation is placed in the resulting structure. Everything is simple here: polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is cut into pieces of the required size and carefully placed in the sheathing. There is no point in attaching it additionally. It is important to remember that if you lay the material in two layers, the joints should not match;

You should not use mineral wool for work. It is both more expensive and less resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, which often occur on balconies.

• All joints are filled with polyurethane foam. Apply foam into all the cracks you find, the composition will not be superfluous and will help achieve best result when insulating a balcony or loggia. The advantage of foam is that it can fill both small cracks and voids up to 10 cm in size, which is especially important on balconies of complex shapes;

• Reflective material is attached on top of the insulation. This stage is optional, but I recommend that, if possible, you cover at least the outer walls in this way, and better yet, all surfaces. The material is carefully straightened and fixed using a construction stapler or self-tapping screws. To ensure the best effect, the joints are glued with special foil tape;

• A counter-lattice 20 mm thick is attached on top of Penofol and finishing material is attached. Everything is simple here: the frame is nailed on top of the main one load-bearing structure. Any finishing you choose is attached to it - from lining and PVC panels to plasterboard or other sheet materials.

Conclusion

Anyone who reads this article will easily figure out how to properly insulate a balcony themselves. The process is very simple, and the video in this article will clearly show some of the stages of work and help you understand them even better. If you need to clarify something on the topic, then write all your questions in the comments at the bottom of the page.

Despite their small size, comprehensive modernization of these parts of residential buildings is a complex task. To find out how to do it yourself, you need to supplement the step-by-step photo detailed descriptions work operations. Information about modern materials will be useful. It is necessary to find out how the new premises will be equipped. Find the correct answers to these and others practical questions It will be easier after reading this article.

Read in the article

Insulating a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step instructions for preparatory work

In domestic climatic conditions, open balconies can be fully used for no more than a few months a year. They are blown by cold winds, filled with rain and covered with snow. After the implementation of the project, the necessary protection will be created. Even if you choose the most economical option, the insulation characteristics of the property will improve and costs will decrease. After deep modernization, you can actually increase your living space at relatively low cost.

Preventing Mistakes

Some important details should be noted at the beginning to avoid making wrong decisions:

• Excessive “frugality” can subsequently transform into additional expenses. If you install cheap frames without, use insufficient quality and Decoration Materials, the desired result will not be obtained. Subsequent alterations are additional costs.
• The wrong choice of technology is also accompanied by troubles. It is necessary to carefully study the nuances of the methods to ensure that they can be realistically reproduced on your own. To carry out the most complex work processes, you can invite specialized specialists.
• Standard ones cannot be installed on the balcony. Some municipal governments prohibit changing the color of exterior surfaces, installing frames, or other externally visible changes.

Image	Name	Advantages	Flaws
	Expanded clay	Low cost; good filling of complex shaped volumes with granules; maintaining integrity over a long service life; non-flammability.	High moisture permeability, which is accompanied by loss of insulating properties.
	Mineral wool	Durability of modern products; resistance to high temperatures; high quality butt connections.	Low strength; deterioration of the structure and increase in thermal conductivity when water enters. These materials must be additionally protected from mechanical damage and increased stress.
	Styrofoam	Reasonable prices; ease of processing; flat outer surface; light weight.	Low strength, flammability. To improve resistance to open flame, special additives are used, but the corresponding materials are more expensive.
	Foamed polystyrene boards	High strength of products with a sufficiently high density; ease of installation; resistance to moisture; durability.	Relatively expensive factory-produced materials from well-known manufacturers. Difficulty filling internal volumes without creating empty spaces.
	Polystyrene formed at a construction site from several liquid components	It has all the advantages of slabs, but in addition it fills all cavities of any shape.	The total cost is higher, since special equipment must be used.
	Foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil (penofol)	Small thickness; long-term preservation of good consumer characteristics; moisture resistance.	High price.

For your information! The insulation system will be effective if insulating materials are installed on the external wall, floor, and ceiling.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step photos, window installation

Drawing	Description of actions

The shortage of residential meters is a pressing problem for many residents of high-rise buildings. Unlike a private house, which can be expanded by adding new rooms or even a second floor, it is almost impossible to increase the size of an apartment without resorting to exchange. The only way out in this case will be to insulate the loggia or balcony.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands today is the only possible option for increasing living space in apartment building. Let's take a closer look at the entire process of turning a loggia into a full-fledged room. Before you insulate the loggia with your own hands, you should draw up a step-by-step work plan.

Design features of the loggia

The balcony is a remote structure, and the loggia is built-in

Many people consider the architectural terms “loggia” and “balcony” to be synonymous. However, this is far from true: these two architectural element have different design, although the purpose is the same. Therefore, insulating a loggia is somewhat different from insulating a balcony.

The balcony is a remote structure located on a balcony slab protruding beyond the boundaries of the façade of the house. The loggia is structurally a niche, as if “recessed” into the depths of the facade and occupies most of the outer wall of the apartment. Accordingly, the balcony has three sides that are external, while the loggia has only the front part facing the street. Therefore, insulating loggias with your own hands will require less costs time, effort and money.

Stages of thermal insulation work

Insulation of the loggia

So, we insulate the loggia with our own hands. The whole complex of work is carried out in several steps - only in this case is it possible to ensure high-quality insulation of the loggia. The entire workflow consists of the following steps:

• glazing of the façade;
• sealing seams and joints;
• waterproofing device;
• installation of insulation;
• wiring of heating, electricity and other communications;
• decorative finishing.

In order for the thermal insulation of a loggia to be as effective as possible, an integrated approach to work is required. If you neglect any of the stages of thermal insulation, you can waste all your work.

Glazing

If the loggia will not be used in winter time choose cold glazing

High-quality glazing is one of the main conditions for turning a loggia into a warm room. Almost 50% of the heat loss from the interior depends on the thermal insulation performance of the window group.

Facade glazing can be either warm or cold. Cold food is, as a rule, single-layer - that is, it consists of wooden frame with one layer of glass or single-chamber double-glazed window. The main task of such systems is protection from street dust and rain. Because of high level loss of heat, such structures cannot act as thermal insulation. This will require the installation of special warm glazing.

Warm glazing involves the installation of more frost-resistant systems. These are double frame wooden windows or multi-chamber double-glazed windows plastic windows. Warm windows, except excellent thermal insulation properties, have a number of additional advantages:

• high levels of noise insulation;
• good waterproofing;
• excellent protection against street dust.

Strengthening the parapet

Strengthening the parapet will be useful in order for the loggia to withstand the loads increased from the installation of double-glazed windows

But, like any other structures, warm windows also have their drawback - they are large. Therefore, before installing them, you need to make sure that the enclosing parapet can support their weight. If there is any doubt about the load-bearing capacity of the fence, it is recommended to make it additionally reinforced.

The easiest way to do this is with metal corners, pipes or fittings. To do this, use a punch to clean small areas surfaces load-bearing slab in such a way that part of its reinforcement is exposed. We make holes in the slab every 1 - 1.5 m, depending on the thickness of the metal profile used. Metal reinforcement posts are welded to the slab reinforcement, which are connected at the top with a steel angle or channel.

The load-bearing concrete slab is designed for a certain load, therefore, when reinforcing the parapet, you should not use excessively massive metal profiles.

Installing window groups

When choosing window groups for a loggia, you need to focus on the minimum indicators winter temperatures in your region. So, for example, the thermal insulation properties of two-chamber double-glazed windows will be quite sufficient for the Krasnodar Territory or Crimea, but for Siberia it will be necessary to choose glazing with 4 - 6 chambers.

Since window installation, especially plastic systems, is quite a complex job that requires special qualifications; it should be entrusted to professionals.

You should not skimp on this important work and try to install glazing yourself: poorly done work can lead to a number of problems in the winter months.

Preparing the loggia for installation of insulation

Instructions for puttying walls

As before any finishing work, before installing insulation you should necessary preparation internal surfaces. This includes:

1. Cleaning walls and ceilings from remnants of old finishing materials.
2. Arrangement of waterproofing.

Cleaning walls and ceilings

The next stage after glazing the facade is cleaning the internal surfaces from old whitewash and painting. Using a scraper or metal spatula, remove all flaking and loose finishing elements.

Particular attention in this work should be paid if you decide to attach the insulation sheets using an adhesive composition. If the walls or ceiling are covered with smooth oil enamel, it is also advisable to remove it with a scraper. If the paint sticks too tightly, you can use it to remove it. grinder or make notches on the surface with a construction pick or an old hatchet.

With this, it is possible to significantly improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition to the surface when gluing insulation sheets.

Sealing cracks and crevices

Be sure to seal the cracks to prevent cold from getting inside.

The next step is to thoroughly seal all joints and cracks. This will prevent cold winter air from entering the room, which can cause condensation to form between the insulation layer and the wall. And this, in turn, leads to the appearance of mold and mildew.

Can be used to seal small cracks ready-made putties or dry putty mixtures, the choice of which is quite large in any construction supermarket. Large gaps can be sealed with polyurethane foam or cement mortar (plaster or concrete).

Waterproofing will protect the insulation from moisture and mold

Waterproofing is another important stage preparing internal surfaces for installation of insulation. Its purpose is to protect the loggia from the penetration of moisture from the outside through the smallest pores of concrete or brick. And this, again, is the accumulation of moisture under the insulation, mold and mildew.

Can be used for waterproofing roll materials based on bitumen. This is the well-known roofing material and its modern derivatives. Sheets of roofing felt using special bitumen mastics The internal surfaces of the external walls, the upper and lower concrete slabs, that is, the floor and ceiling of the future room, are covered. The joints of the roofing felt sheets should overlap and be well coated with glue or mastic.

For the same purposes, you can use special liquid mastics on a bitumen or polymer base, which, after being applied to the wall surface, harden, forming a moisture-proof film. These mastics are applied using a brush or roller.

Work on their application should be carried out at positive temperatures so that the composition lies evenly, covering the wall thin layer.

Insulation of ceilings

After all the preparatory work has been completed, we begin work on the direct insulation of the room. For more information about insulating ceilings, watch this video:

Penofol

Some apartment owners do not take the insulation of the ceiling slab seriously enough. But, in this case, huge heat losses through the concrete ceiling slab can negate all your work to transform the loggia into a full-fledged interior room.

• penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam);
• penofol (foiled polyethylene foam);
• mineral wool.

Frame structure

The thickness of the sheathing bars must correspond to the thickness of the insulation

Before you start attaching the foam to the ceiling, you should install the frame. It will serve as the basis for the ceiling cladding in the future. decorative panels or drywall. To do this, you can use wooden blocks of the required thickness.

The thickness of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the insulation that you are going to attach to the ceiling slab. You can also use a metal profile for plasterboard as frame elements.

Attach wooden blocks to the ceiling with dowels

Bars or metal profile elements are attached to concrete slab using dowel-nails or metal hangers. First, the longitudinal elements running along the loggia are attached. They should be mounted in at least three rows - two rows along the walls and one in the center.

For standard width standard loggias of one meter will be quite enough. After this, we proceed to the installation of transverse elements, attaching them every 0.5 m. As a result, we obtain a frame in the form of cells measuring 0.5 x 0.5 meters. If you plan to sheathe the ceiling with materials stronger than plasterboard, then the pitch of the transverse bars can be increased to 1 m. Insert insulation into the resulting cells, cut according to the right size.

The same frame is created for other insulated surfaces - walls and floors.

Foam plastic and penoplex

Polystyrene foam as insulation is suitable for plasterboard or chipboard

Polystyrene foam is produced in sheets and can have different densities. Lighter and less dense foam should be used if you are going to use sheets of plasterboard, plastic panels, chipboard, etc. as finishing materials.

If you are going to putty the ceiling and paint it, then it would be best to use a denser type of foam - with a density of about 25 kg per cubic meter. Such sheets are quite durable and more resistant to external influences.

Foam plastic can be attached to a concrete slab in two main ways:

1. Using polymer or cement adhesives.
2. Fastening elements – hangers and dowels.

Glue is applied around the perimeter and in the center

If adhesives are used, the surface of the slab must be thoroughly cleaned of various contaminants, dust, peeling paint, plaster and whitewash. The foam sheet is cut to the required size. Construction adhesive is applied in a thin layer along the entire perimeter of the foam sheet, as well as pointwise in several places in its center. After which the sheet is inserted into the frame cell.

Dowels for foam plastic

Another option for fastening foam sheets is using plastic dowel nails with a wide head. To do this, we insert the prepared foam into the frame and, using a puncher, make holes in the slab for the dowel in several places through it.

We insert the dowels into the holes and secure them by driving plastic nails into them. For 1 sq. m sheet of foam plastic, 4 to 6 dowel nails will be enough. Penoplex, which has a higher density than polystyrene, is installed in the frame in exactly the same way.

All joints between sheets of insulation should be carefully puttied to avoid possible heat loss.

Penofol

Air bubbles inside the insulation significantly reduce thermal conductivity

This insulation is new on our market. Its main feature is excellent thermal insulation qualities with a thickness of only 5 - 10 mm. Penofol consists of foamed polyethylene foam, onto which metal foil is glued on one or both sides.

The polyethylene base is a foamed polymer containing closed air bubbles, which significantly reduces its thermal conductivity. The function of the foil is to reflect thermal radiation. As a result, penofol 0.5 cm thick can replace a 10 cm layer of mineral wool.

Do not press the penofol tightly against the wall; there should be a gap between it and the surface

The peculiarity of fastening penofol is that between it and outer skin there must be some distance. It is not allowed to be pressed against the base - in this case, its thickness decreases sharply and the thermal conductivity coefficient increases.

To avoid this, penofol should be mounted on special U-shaped hangers or sheathing. In this case, the material is spread over the first, longitudinal layer of slats and pressed with the second, transverse layer.

The foil side must be facing inside the room.

Minvata

Mineral wool can be made from fibers of glass or stone and come in the form of rolls or slabs. Its density can also be very different, and the method of attaching it to the base depends on this. To learn how to insulate a balcony with mineral wool and penoplex with your own hands, watch this video:

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is hydrophobicity

Less dense rolled mineral wool is attached mainly using slats that press it to the surface of the slab or wall. Denser mineral slabs can be mounted using plastic dowels and nails.

Use it adhesive compositions It is categorically not recommended for fastening mineral wool - due to its ability to easily delaminate, the adhesive connection will not be reliable.

Among the main disadvantages of this material is its hydrophobicity. It tends to absorb and accumulate dampness. When wet, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation qualities, and also breaks down into individual fibers and becomes deformed. For an expert opinion on whether mineral wool is dusty, watch this video:

Another not very pleasant feature of mineral wool is the release during operation. large quantity mineral dust. Dust getting on the skin and mucous membranes can cause sudden allergic reactions in the form of itching and burning.

Therefore, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to use protective equipment: thick overalls, a respirator, goggles and gloves.

Insulation of floors and walls

Insulation of the floor and external walls of the loggia is carried out approximately according to the same scheme as the ceilings. Initially, a frame sheathing is constructed, into the cells of which insulating material is inserted. True, these works have their own characteristics.

Exterior walls

When constructing a thermal circuit on a loggia, it is necessary to insulate not only the external parapet fence, but also the side walls. Especially if these walls are external and not shared with internal rooms.

External insulation will prevent freezing

If you thermally insulate the facade of the loggia along all building regulations, then you need to attach the insulation to the parapet with outside. In this case, freezing of the concrete or brick wall, and the so-called “dew point,” the point where condensation forms when warm and cold air collide, moves outward.

If we carry out insulation from the inside of the room, then condensation will form between the wall and the insulation layer - the waterproofing we installed earlier serves to protect against this.

Insulation of the loggia facade will require permission from the architectural committee

But insulating the façade is not always possible. Firstly, this requires special equipment and a team of trained professionals. Secondly, for such work it is necessary to obtain permission from the city’s architectural committee and from the management organization, since the facade of the building is common property.

And if it faces the main street, then unauthorized violation of the uniform architectural appearance of the building by installing insulation on the walls can be considered an administrative offense.

Floors

Floor joists are made from thicker bars

It is advisable to insulate floors using denser types of insulation. Dense polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is perfect for these purposes.

Before laying the insulation on the floor, you should also install a frame, the cells of which will be filled with insulation. But, unlike the frame on the ceiling and walls, on the floor it should be made of thicker and stronger bars, and the step between them should be reduced to 0.5 m. This will allow the flooring to withstand the weight of several people and furniture that will be placed in room.

You can also install a warm infrared floor on top of the insulation, which will perfectly heat the loggia

A floor covering in the form of thick plywood or boards is mounted on the frame. On top they can be covered with laminate, parquet and other decorative elements.

Another option for floor insulation is to create concrete screed on top of the insulation. Penoplex is ideal for this, having a density of up to 35 kg per cubic meter, which is twice the density of polystyrene foam. In this case, you can do without installing the frame.

Penoplex is laid in two to three layers directly on the base plate in such a way that the joints of the sheets of the two layers do not coincide with each other. Fiberglass is glued over the sheets plaster mesh or reinforcement is made in the form of thin metal rods. After this, a layer is poured concrete mortar or ready-made self-leveling floors and leveled.

As a final flooring Can be ceramic or granite tiles, laminate, etc.

Communications liner

An option for heating a loggia can be a water heated floor

To make the loggia truly warm, you will need to install heating here. It’s worth saying right away that you should not try to install here heating radiators and connect them to the system central heating. According to the operational standards of apartment buildings, the owner of the apartment does not have the right to arbitrarily make changes to the circuits of the heating system.

Therefore, the most realistic option would be to install systems electric heating. “Warm floors” performed best in this case. This system consists of insulated wires that begin to heat up when connected to power. As a result, the floor of the room is heated, and the air is heated from it.

Rolled heated floors are convenient for quick installation

The main advantage of the system warm floors is that the most comfortable temperature here is created in the lower half of the room, where people usually are. Warm floors can be produced in two versions:

1. In the form of insulated wires, which are intended to be hidden in the thickness of the concrete screed.
2. In the form of ready-made rolls that can be laid directly under the floor covering.

Other effective options for heating a loggia include infrared refractors. In this case, the room is heated due to infrared radiation, which transmits thermal energy internal surfaces of the room, from which the air is heated.

For greater efficiency, such heaters are placed on the ceiling or on the walls and can be made in the form of panels or a special film.

Decorative finishing

Drywall will allow you to create multi-level surfaces

After all the work on insulating the loggia has been completed, you can begin the final stage of work - decorative finishing. As a material for finishing a new warm room, you can choose exactly the same one that is used to finish the rest of the rooms of the apartment.

The most functional option is drywall. With its help you can create any decorative surfaces and structures: from multi-level suspended ceilings to arched entrance groups and decorative niches.

Plastic ones would also look good. Wall panels, dropped ceilings made of polyvinyl chloride. Among the latest innovations we can note solid wood finishing balsa wood. Classic finishing options in the form of various types wallpaper or wooden slats - lining.

In general, there are a huge variety of decorative finishing options. Therefore, the choice of style, design and material can be left to the taste of the apartment owner. The main thing is that the design new room completely satisfied the owner, then this one small room can become your favorite place to relax or work.

IN Lately more and more apartment owners in multi-storey buildings decide to expand their area by adding a balcony. This is an excellent option if you figure out how to properly insulate it from the inside and equip it.

If the balcony is not glazed, windows must be installed before insulation. It is better to choose high-quality double-glazed windows without saving, because the amount of heat in the apartment depends on them. Elements window designs should fit together as tightly as possible so that drafts do not penetrate into the house.

The balcony is the part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are starting to equip their balconies as additional space, for example, Personal Area. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to properly insulate the structure from the inside.

Stages of insulating a balcony

In modern technologies for insulating open hanging structures(balconies) four types of materials are used as internal insulation: foam plastic, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Let's consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

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1. First, existing cracks are sealed. You need to carefully examine the balcony and determine their location. You can fix the problem with the help of polyurethane foam, even if the cracks are quite wide, you just need to choose a high-quality one, for example, “Macroflex”, “Soudal”, “Moment Montazh”. After the foam has dried, the excess is trimmed with a utility knife.

2. Waterproofing the balcony from the inside. For these purposes, you can use penetrating waterproofing "Aquatron", "Penetron" and the like. They are applied using a brush, roller or spray method. The advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it penetrates into the walls, making them more resistant to low temperatures and more durable. In addition, waterproofing eliminates all microcracks that are not visible to the naked eye.

3. Laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, you can use polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, penoplex, mineral boards, etc.

Laying vapor barrier. You can use polymer “breathable” membranes, vapor barrier films “Izospan”, “Rockwool” and the like, or, as a last resort, penofol, which is laid with the foil side facing the apartment. So the heat leaving the room will return back.

4. Exterior finishing ceiling and walls on the balcony.

Insulation option in which there is no additional insulation

This technique can be used provided that materials with low vapor permeability are available ( we're talking about about materials such as polystyrene foam, penoplex, or extruded polystyrene foam).

No. 1. Insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose polystyrene foam as insulation, then the sequence of work is as follows:

After all the cracks have been sealed and waterproofing has been completed, the surface is treated with a primer deep penetration, for example "Ceresit". This can be done with a brush or spray. The primer is poured into a bucket or other container that you don’t mind, then applied to the surface. Carefully work on the walls, ceiling and floor to achieve maximum adhesion of the insulation boards to them.

After applying the primer, you must wait at least six hours, then continue work. If the wall is made of slag concrete, then the primer is carried out twice.

We rested - let's continue. Unpack the polystyrene foam boards. They are attached with glue and fasteners. The glue must be prepared according to the instructions and mixed thoroughly. Then apply it to the first sheet, which is glued to the surface (do not forget to retreat three centimeters from the edges, and leave small gaps between the sheets). Install polystyrene foam sheets in a checkerboard pattern.

Whether to install a vapor barrier or not is up to you. In this case, it is not necessary to do it.

Installation of reinforcing mesh. When all the slabs are securely fixed to the walls or ceiling, the reinforcing mesh should be installed. To do this, the surface of the slabs is treated with glue, and fixed at their corners. perforated corners. The reinforcing mesh is rolled onto the glued surface with a roller, then another layer of glue is applied. When the wall is dry, it is primed and plastered.

No. 2. Balcony insulation with penoplex

Penoplex is actively used for insulating rooms. You can attach it to the surface using bitumen mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

So. Waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied around the perimeter of the insulation board. It's enough. After application, wait a couple of seconds and fix the slab on the insulated surface. The next slab is laid end to end with the first one. After two days, you can additionally secure the slabs with dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in in a similar manner which is described above. Finish at your own discretion. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels; they look very original.

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed sheathing. A lining is mounted on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is construction recommendation perform insulation on the outside of the building. However, when insulating balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and correct selection materials so that in the future the work performed will not lead to wetness of the walls, corners and ceilings inside the external structure.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Important! When installing, the foil should be located on the side of the room. The internal heat of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between outer wall(ceiling, roof) and frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on what kind of cladding will be used in the future.

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little internal space on the balcony by installing sticks with a rectangular rather than square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

All racks and horizontal lathing strips are installed below the level. Fastening vertical racks to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal strips are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. The cotton material itself is breathable; it easily allows gaseous substances (air, steam) to pass through.

Considering that when internal insulation the point of condensation formation moves into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the penetration of steam or air from living quarters into the construction wool. For these purposes, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finishing.

Interior decoration

Purpose interior decoration:

1. Close the heat insulation material from the living space.
2. Create an aesthetic inner covering walls of a room or insulated loggia.

Exist various materials for interior decoration of balconies (plasterboard, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lattice frame, finishing is done by hanging various types of panels: plywood, MDF, wood or plastic lining.

Finishing clapboard is performed by covering the walls with wooden (or plastic) car panels that have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and tightness of fastening. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper simulator wooden covering, laid along the inner walls of the balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Wooden car panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, and have sufficient rigidity for flooring. Plastic lining you can sheathe the ceiling of the loggia, the floor is covered with wood; as for the walls, both types of carriage coverings (plastic and wood) can be used here.

It is recommended to start clapboard cladding from the corner. Each panel is checked for verticality with a level and fixed to the sheathing with a special fastener (clamp). You can fix the carriage panel with small nails.

After finishing, the inner surface is treated with a compound that protects the wood from moisture and destruction.

Problems encountered when insulating a balcony internally

1. When covering walls, ceilings and floors with insulating material, the area of ​​the room inevitably decreases. And this drawback is not the only one.

2. In many structures, condensation often occurs, which is difficult to get rid of when everything construction works have already been produced. Why does excess moisture appear?

The insulating structure installed on the balcony includes the following elements:

1. external fencing located on the street; insulation material; warm room.

Air masses tend to get out, and their moisture, passing through the insulation, settles on the outer fence in the form of condensation. The insulation gets wet and completely loses its performance characteristics.

Warm vapors, when faced with a cold fence, also turn into a liquid state. Excess moisture in the room causes many problems: for example, mold or rot. wooden elements designs. That is why you need to know how to properly insulate your balcony.

This can be done from the inside in two ways.

Hydrobarrier

A hydrobarrier is a special design that prevents moisture condensation on the outer fence. Its installation technology includes certain stages:

1. installation of vapor barrier;
2. finishing with facing materials.

The hydrobarrier makes it possible to use even materials that do not tolerate moisture when insulating from the inside. Polyethylene or foil serves as insulation.

Important! All seams must be sealed with construction tape.in order to best insulate the balcony.

The disadvantage of this insulation method is that the walls cannot breathe.

Insulation without additional insulation

It is possible to insulate a balcony from the inside in this way only if there are materials with low vapor permeability: polystyrene foam, penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam. The design includes:

1. fiberglass mesh, also mounted with glue; finishing.

Advice! For better fastening For insulation, you can use plastic dowels.

No adhesive is required for thermal insulation with polystyrene foam. This material is applied to the insulated surface using a sprayer, foams and dries.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNIKOL LOGICPIR Balcony is suitable for walls, ceilings, floors. saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.

1. retains heat thanks to its unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W/m°K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W/m°K);
2. protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (flammability group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
3. will last for many years (the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Advice! When insulating a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam, it is better to make a layer of material about 80 mm thick. The vapor permeability of extruded polystyrene foam is lower than that of simple polystyrene, so its layer can be even smaller.

Floor insulation

After insulating the balcony walls, the floor should be insulated. If you correctly calculate the amount of insulation and the thickness of its layer, you can make the floor on the balcony at the same level as in the other rooms.

At the first stage of work, the slab is cleaned of dirt, debris and fallen plaster. Then the floor is covered with foil and penofol. The second stage is attaching the sheathing, previously cut with a jigsaw. Insulation boards are laid between its beams ( better than foam), and the gaps between them are filled with foam. The final stage is the installation of flooring, linoleum or parquet and baseboards.

This design can raise the floor on the balcony by about 150 mm.

Electrically heated floor

You can also insulate the floor using modern technologies. Then the balcony will be practically no different from other rooms. Installing electric heat tracing is a relatively simple process, but the energy costs add up significantly.

To heat the balcony floor from the inside, a special electric cable is installed.

Important! The cable must not be exposed to moisture under any circumstances.

Components of the insulating structure:

Ceiling insulation

Advice! If the neighbors living on the floor above have already insulated their balcony, there is no need to insulate the ceiling.

The most optimal material for ceiling insulation is polystyrene foam. It weighs very little, which is very important in this case. Its main layer is complemented by foil, which acts as a vapor barrier and heat reflector. The foiled polystyrene foam is fixed with polyurethane foam glue and disc-shaped dowels. All seams are sealed with special metal tape.

The foam is attached to aluminum hangers using the same combined method.

Important! The insulation sheets should fit together as tightly as possible.

All cracks are filled with polyurethane foam with special care, so every, even the smallest, hole can make all work completely useless.

You can insulate a balcony from the inside either on your own or by using the services of professionals. However, these construction works can be simple if you use tips and carefully understand the technology.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step photos and instructions

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Mistakes when insulating a balcony