Paving slabs in the country house or in the yard country house is capable of performing not only a decorative function, but also a utilitarian one. In order for it to look beautiful and easily withstand the load placed on it, it must be laid correctly.

Many homeowners prefer to have hired specialists handle the process, believing that they will perform all the necessary operations in the best possible way. But some people don't trust employees, and prefers to carry out all important manipulations independently.

How possible is it to lay paving slabs with your own hands? It is quite possible to do this, the main thing is to have it at hand step by step instructions. It describes in detail the sequence of all upcoming operations and the order in which they are performed.

Laying the yard with paving slabs: preparation

Before starting work, you need to think it through carefully and draw up a plan. This will guarantee a long and reliable service life of the manufactured coating. Tiling the entire yard is not very rational or cost-effective.

But paths are necessary on any site - it can be quite difficult to do without them. Therefore you need to calculate required amount paths, their size and configuration, so that they connect residential building with various outbuildings and other buildings.

Then, in any weather, the homeowner and his household will move along neat, clean paths. And green spaces will suffer much less.

Why paving slabs? This material is increasingly used in both industrial and private construction.

The advantages of this road surface obvious. The installation work is not particularly difficult. The tiles do not “float” during hot weather and do not burst from severe frost.

It looks beautiful and is easy to care for. The tiled area allows moisture to pass through well, which is beneficial for both the soil and plants.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles

Important notes to help you lay tiles correctly

You should not start work immediately after rain, especially during it. The soil and pad must be well dry. To prevent the tiles from starting to creep after some time, humidity levels should be minimal.

Laying paving slabs: progress of work

To carry out the work you will need cement, curbing, sand and the tile itself. The required tools are pegs, usually a tamper, a broom, nylon thread, a rubber hammer, a trowel and a level.

We start by marking the site, or rather, by determining the contour of the future path.

The site is marked with wooden pegs, which are connected with a nylon cord. It must be properly tensioned and level, as it will become a guide when laying the tiles.

To properly arrange the base, you will have to cut and remove the layer of turf, then level the resulting surface, moisten it and compact it with a special tamper.

• If the soil is dense enough, then often it does not need such manipulations. Plant roots and stones found in the soil must be removed.
• If the soil is not removed, the path will seem to be slightly raised above the surface of the site. The consequence of this may be its erosion by rain or melt water.
• The resulting compacted bed is covered with gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm high.
• If the path is intended for the movement of cars, then this figure should be increased to 40 cm. (Geotextiles can be laid under and on the gravel).
• To level, sand is poured on top - its thickness should be approximately 2 cm.

Border for paving slabs

What is the border for? Its purpose is to prevent the tiles from spreading and highlight the path. Is its use mandatory?

No, often when laying a path with tiles they do without additional finishing. The base under the curb must be carefully leveled. It is best to place it on a special concrete castle. For paving slabs in a private area, it is quite possible to use a plastic border.

Preparing the base: options for laying paving slabs

Grounds under paving slabs can be different - there are three types in total. Depending on the type of base chosen, the method of laying the tiles also changes.

On the sand. The space between the stretched cords or borders is filled with sand. The thickness of such a pillow should be 5-6 cm. The sand is well soaked and left to dry, after which it is leveled and compacted. The tile is placed lightly wet sand(never wet).

On concrete. There can be two options: when a concrete base is already available, and when it is installed specifically as a substrate for tiles. This method considered not very rational.

The point is that the cement monolith retains water (does not allow it to pass through). It accumulates between the tiles and the base - when severe frost freezes, causing the track to deform.

On a cement-sand cushion. Another sand layer of 3-4 cm is poured onto the prepared base (with the soil removed, leveled and compacted), and a reinforcing mesh is placed on it. Next, a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of four to one is placed on it.

Technology for laying paving slabs

The tiles should begin to be placed from the lowest point in the upward direction. Competent masonry should be carried out “on your own”.

In other words, when doing work, the specialist moves along an already laid path so as not to endanger the prepared foundation. If a circular method of installing tiles is used, then the activities begin in the center of the picture.

Individual tile elements should be placed diagonally, and not in even stripes. This will make it easier to align them during the process. First, a rope is pulled along the width of the future path, along which the initial row of material will be aligned. Every two or three times the correctness of the horizontal is verified by a level.

The tiled element is placed in the place prepared for it, and brought to the correct position by soft tapping with a hammer.

If necessary, you can add sand underneath it. A gap of 2-3 mm left between the tiles is usually enough for moisture to escape. To ensure that the gap has the same size over the entire distance, you can use special crosses. But in practice they usually do without them.

Turnkey tile laying: grouting

In order for a hand-made path to be beautiful and wear-resistant, you will have to take care correct processing seams. They are usually filled in two steps.

First, dry sifted sand is applied to the freshly prepared path. Using a brush or broom, it is leveled over the surface and swept into the seams.

The next layer that should be poured onto the path is a sand-cement mixture or sand. They treat him the same way as the first.

Then, using a sprayer or using other available means, the path is moistened quite intensively - until puddles appear. If there is a border, then the distance between it and the tiles is also filled with the mixture. You can purchase a factory-made mixture for joints.

In order for a paving slab path to serve for a long time, you need to know how to properly care for it. This coating does not require any special procedures: it should be swept regularly and washed occasionally.

Then she will retain her original appearance and remain elegant for as long as possible. In winter, you should protect it from damage by not using rough metal products - shovels, ice picks and crowbars.

Contrary to popular belief, laying paving slabs yourself is a completely feasible task. This is one of the options for improving the area in the country or next to country house, which can be completed without outside help. In the article we will talk about the technology of laying paving slabs with our own hands, we will analyze detailed step-by-step instructions, and also show diagrams, photos and video materials.

You should carefully calculate the expected dimensions of the site before starting work on its marking. It is best to make the length and width of the paving area multiples, based on the size of the prepared paving slabs, in order to avoid cutting them. The most durable methods for laying paths are made from solid tiles, so you should avoid cutting them. Having finished with the calculations, you need to measure the area to be laid using pegs and a cord stretched between them, as well as a tape measure. Do not forget that you will need to make a small groove around the perimeter for the curb.

After marking the paths, it is advisable to take a walk along the intended route, because then you will need to walk along it many times. If everything suits you, then you can start next stage work.

The first stage is the selection and preparation of a site for paving slabs. Of course you need to see if there is necessary tools. You will need:

• pins or stakes (made of metal or wood, it doesn’t matter);
• rubber hammer;
• building level (for adjusting tiles);
• a hose with a divider or a large watering can (if there is no water supply);
• broom;
• rake;
• a flat, long object (channel, pipe or corner).

After making sure that you have the necessary equipment, you can begin to work.

To do the job well, you need to know how to lay paving slabs correctly. The guide below will help you complete this task.

We use pegs to mark the boundaries of the area where installation is planned. If you plan to fence with sidewalk curbs, then you should leave a small margin.

For tiles measuring 25x25 cm, it is logical to make the length and width of the area multiples of a quarter of a meter. If the tile is 30x30 cm, then in multiples of 30 centimeters, and so on. This will eliminate the need to cut the tiles and make the structure more durable.

Leveling the site

During the installation process, the main task for high-quality coating The prepared, level base will serve as paving slabs. It should be leveled over the entire area so that you don’t have to redo anything later.

The turf must be cut from the marked area. This will ensure that the root system is removed, which will to some extent prevent plants from growing in the tile joints. Such work is also useful in that it prepares the base for bedding, thanks to which the surface can be leveled. Now we are trying to achieve level ground on the site. We do this by cutting off hills and pouring soil into depressions and holes.

During this stage, it is also necessary to take care of the presence of a drain for water, for which it is enough to make a slight slope of the base. We carefully treat the formed surface with a rake and compact it.

If the soil is soft, it should be moistened and compacted well to prevent shrinkage in the future.

Subsequent work on preparing the marked area

Having completed work with the relief, you need to fill 2 layers on top, the first of which consists of gravel, and the next of sand.

If the coating will be used to park a car on it, then the best way suitable styling paving slabs on a concrete base.

Each layer must be compacted thoroughly perfect size which range from 3 to 5 cm. In some situations, geotextiles are placed between gravel and sand, which prevents the gravel from mixing with sand, but does not prevent the outflow of moisture.

Preparing the embankment layer

Here, the general case of laying tiles in a country house can be divided into two options. The first is laying paving slabs on concrete base, the second is the use of materials that allow installation without cement, for example, on sand. Optimal height embankment about 7 cm. On the marking stakes we stretch a fishing line or rope along the selected level.

At the same stage, you will need to determine the water drainage line. Stagnant water can erode the base of the tile.

Installing a border

We install the border in front of the fill. Prepare a small trench for installing the border and pour a 5 cm layer of sand on the bottom. The depth of the trench is selected so that 60% of the height of the stone is under the paving.

The curb must be installed in such a way that it can withstand not only a child’s steps along it, but also a collision with a car.

As already noted, in order to avoid trimming, paving slabs should be laid according to exact calculations, based on their dimensions. If you can’t do without trimming, use a grinder with a cutting wheel for concrete. How are paving slabs with cut edges laid? The same as solid tiles, but in this case more attention should be paid to laying out the pattern.

After determining the level of the base, we fill the area under the paving slabs with sand, compacting it. Then we level the sand along the tensioned levels with a rake, adjusting it to a smooth surface with a pipe (channel, corner). You should have a level area. Now it needs to be moistened with streams of water (without pressure to avoid washing out).

Laying tiles

When laying paving slabs on sand, carefully press them to the base and, if necessary, knock them down rubber mallet. Do not forget about the drawing that you are laying out, since the pattern must go sequentially and in accordance with the intended scheme. When the tiles are laid, it is advisable to run a vibrating plate over them for additional compaction. As a result, the surface will be absolutely smooth, each tile will “grow together” with the base, and water will not accumulate on the surface.

To lay tiles on bends and turns, it is necessary to increase the gap between them, and their maximum width should not exceed 0.8 cm. In general, special tiles with rounded edges (“Classic” model) are sold for laying turns and bends. It is better not to use rectangular tiles for this.

All that remains is to fill the finished area of ​​paving stones with sand and scrub it with a hard-bristled brush. At this stage, the work is essentially completed and the new sidewalk can be used.

Sand poured into joints and onto the surface should not contain organic materials and salts that can cause efflorescence.

In addition to a beautiful sidewalk, you can learn great skills that you can easily apply to the foundation of your new paving business.

Worth mentioning minimum requirements for basic maintenance of new paths. First of all, paving slabs, like any other coating, require systematic cleaning from dirt and dust. Given this fact, it is better to opt for dark-colored tiles that do not require thorough cleaning. Patterned paths must be washed regularly with a brush and detergent.

Particular attention should be paid to the cleanliness of paths in winter time of the year. It is strictly forbidden to use metal and sharp objects in the process of caring for paving slabs, for example, crushing ice, etc.

Under no circumstances should you sprinkle salt on paving slabs, as it will corrode not only the ice, but also the top cement layer of the tile.

If you decide to use special means, then it is better to check it on an inconspicuous area of ​​the tile, since there are many chemicals that can ruin the appearance of the path. It is not advisable to coat paving slabs with paints or varnish to avoid losing the original appearance and aesthetic appearance, especially since they can easily ruin the coating. We sincerely hope that our article will help you in your work.

Photo

Video

This video will help you in laying paving slabs in your country house:

If option self-installation If you are not satisfied with paving slabs, then you should take a responsible approach to choosing a company!

Scheme

And now you can get acquainted with the schemes for laying paving slabs:

- an obligatory stage in the arrangement of any local area, because paths make the area not only more comfortable, but also aesthetically pleasing. For these purposes, you can use the most different materials, but most often the choice falls on paving slabs. There is nothing surprising here: it has a lot of advantages, and the technology for laying the material is so accessible that literally anyone can do it with their own hands. To correctly lay the path and thereby improve the area of ​​the dacha, you only need to follow the step-by-step instructions - we suggest you read them further.

So that you have no doubt about the advisability of using this material to create country paths, let’s consider the main advantages:

• A large selection of shapes, shades, as well as textures - tiles make it possible to implement any design idea and create a harmonious landscape ensemble.
• Ease of use - there are no puddles left on the paths made of paving slabs, since all excess moisture leaves through the tile seams.

Paving slabs are convenient and durable

• Durability - the material does not deform under constant impact scorching sun, precipitation and sudden temperature changes. In addition, the tiles are durable and low abrasion, so they can withstand long-term intensive use - over 15 years. But even if some area of ​​the coating is damaged, it can always be restored by replacing several tiles.
• Ease of installation - laying a path will not be difficult even for those who have never dealt with such landscaping work. To make sure of this, consider the technology of laying tiles step by step.

Stage 1: Selecting a pattern for laying tiles

First of all, you need to decide how you will lay the tiles - the shape, size and amount of material for the path depends on this.

The most common schemes:

• Classic ordering is the simplest installation method, which involves placing paving slabs one after another. Most often, square or rectangular elements are used - they are easier to fit together.

Advice. To give such a rather simple track originality, you can combine different colors and tile textures.

• With an offset - one more traditional way laying: tiles are placed so that their joints do not coincide. The combination is actively encouraged here different colors and textures, but the shape of the elements must be uniform.
• Herringbone - laying at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Rectangular or shaped elements can be used. Complex option herringbones - wickerwork: paving slabs are also laid at an angle, but alternating - lengthwise and crosswise. To make the pattern clear, it is recommended to use only two colors.

Paths made of paving slabs look very modern and beautiful

• Chess - laying square two-color tiles in a checkerboard pattern. Although this option is simple to implement, due to the play of colors it looks very impressive.
• Geometry - various geometric patterns are formed from tiles: squares, rhombuses, zigzags, etc. The composition is created by using elements of different colors, but the same shape.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

When you decide on the installation scheme, you can go to buy tiles from hardware store. When choosing a product, focus not only on its design, but also on performance indicators: slip level, maximum permissible weight loads, processing capabilities (trimming, painting).

Advice. To correctly determine the number of tiles, it is better to draw up a simple plan diagram in advance: indicate the shape and dimensions of the planned path. Subsequently, taking into account the area working area and the dimensions of a specific tile, you can easily calculate the required volume of material.

In addition to the paving slabs themselves, you will also need:

• dry cement;
• sand;
• fine crushed stone or gravel;
• small pegs - wooden or metal;
• mallet - rubber or wooden;
• Master OK;

Before laying tiles, the surface should be leveled

• level;
• tile knife;
• tamping;
• profile;
• geotextiles;
• twine.

Stage 3: Laying on a concrete base or sand bed

A properly prepared base is a guarantee of successful installation country path, so this stage needs to be thought through in detail. The first step is to mark the future path: mark its boundaries, drive pegs around the perimeter and connect them with twine.

Advice. If the site has clay soil, take care of drainage: make longitudinal and transverse slopes in the resulting trench so that moisture flows to the edges.

And now we need to decide the most important question: What kind of base will you lay the tiles on? There are two options:

1. Sand pillow. First, you need to lay a layer of sand on the ground - 5-10 cm in height. Compact it and moisten it. Lay geotextiles on top. Then lay a layer of crushed stone or gravel - also 5-10 cm in height. Walk along the base with a tamper and add up to 5 cm more sand. After this, perform the final moistening and compaction of the pillow. This base option is only suitable for narrow and short paths.
2. Concrete base. To begin, fill the trenches with a layer of sand - about 5 cm. Moisten and compact the base. Then cook cement mixture: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fill the trench with the resulting composition - the layer should be 4-5 cm. Be sure to level the concrete with a trowel. This base option is more durable than the first, so it is suitable for paths of any size.

Laying tiles on a sand bed

Stage 4: Tile laying technology

The last stage is the direct construction of the path from paving slabs. You only need to start laying from yourself - this way you will not deform the prepared base. According to the chosen pattern, install the first tile, adjust its position and fix it to the base, carefully tapping it with a mallet.

Focusing on the first element, lay the entire track, keeping gaps of 2 mm. Tamp each tile with a mallet so that it “sits” firmly into the base. Periodically check the height of the covering - if you notice that some element is laid unevenly, use a trowel to carefully lift it, adjust the position and re-fix it on the track.

After the paving slabs have been laid, fill the seams with either sand or a dry cement-sand composition. Then remove excess filler and thoroughly moisten the gaps. The seams should be tight, since they will bear part of the load that the track will take on.

Advice. To fill joints, use only clean sand that does not contain any organic impurities so that vegetation does not soon appear between the tiles.

You can walk on the paved path only 2-3 days after its installation.

Laying paving slabs is relatively inexpensive, but effective way ennoble local area. As you can see, arranging paths does not require professional skills or complex tools - it’s quite possible to make paths with your own hands. So carefully study the step-by-step installation instructions and you can safely get to work.

How to lay paving slabs: video

The many advantages of paving slabs make it a material that is increasingly being chosen for arranging paths and sidewalks. Regardless of the purpose of the sidewalk, we can find thin and thick tiles in the form of paving stones. There are options that meet the requirements for sidewalks, driveways, and even allow you to make a road for heavy vehicles.

Unfortunately, despite the many advantages that this material has, it also has a rather serious drawback. The cost of its installation and leveling is approximately twice its cost. That's why many people are looking to save on installation costs by trying to handle the entire process themselves, especially when installing paving in their own yard, driveway, or deck.

Is it possible to lay paving slabs on sand without sand? How to prepare for work and what is required for it? Which sand is best to cover? How to avoid the most common mistakes and, finally, how to correctly lay paving stones on sand step by step? You can find everything in this article necessary advice and recommendations on these issues.

How to design a sidewalk surface?

Before you start laying, you should think about the layout of the path. You need to plan the width and pattern to minimize the need to cut the tiles. This will allow you to work faster and without unpleasant surprises in the form of cracking slabs, curved elements or installation difficulties.

Photo. Cutting tiles is quite a fiddly job, so it's best to avoid it if possible when planning your path pattern

When planning the layout of a deck or walkway, we must also consider water drainage. Can be arranged different variants water drainage:

1. linear outlet;
2. in the form of gutters in the sidewalk;
3. plan for elevation changes.

The height difference is planned towards the ground adjacent to the tile, for example, into a lawn. It should be borne in mind that the surface of the pavement should be raised above the surrounding area so that we can avoid its contamination by water flows, in addition, this facilitates the penetration of water into the ground. Correct location will allow the tiles, even after rain, to dry quickly and be always clean.

When purchasing tiles, you need to pay attention not only to their decorative qualities, but also to their thickness. Various sizes suitable for various purposes. Tiles 4-6 cm thick are used for paving pedestrian paths, sidewalks, or decorative strips around the house, while for surfaces with increased load (entrances to the house and garage), you need to choose an option with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm.

Before you start, you need to prepare the following tools:

You will also need following materials:

• sand;
• cement.

Carrying out the work step by step

Creating a sidewalk always includes several stages, which, depending on many parameters (type of soil, nature of use of the sidewalk, pattern) may differ slightly from each other.

Stages

The following general stages can be distinguished:

1. Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment.
2. Marking and preparation of the site.
3. Installation of curbs.
4. Laying tiles.
5. Grouting and final work.

Most installation work different tiles will be the same, with a difference in step 4. Depending on the type of paving: stone, paving stones or paving slabs, the material is laid slightly differently, using different reasons.

Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment

Laying the tiles begins by transferring the project to the ground. It is important to plan the shape of the path or pavement, determine the location of control points, preferably where it is important to ensure that the pattern is laid correctly or where there are some changes that need to be taken into account. For planning, pegs and string are used to “draw” the shape of a path, platform or road.

Marking and preparation of the site

Work begins with the formation of a recess that corresponds to the course of the sidewalk. The depth of the excavation depends on the use of the sidewalk - the higher the load, the greater the depth should be, since the thickness of the base should be greater. The following depth is recommended:

• for sidewalks, paths, terraces - the depth should be from 15 to 20 cm;
• for more loaded areas, for example for car paths, this depth is at least 50 cm.

The depth of the excavation also depends on the type of soil:

• on sandy soils it may be less;
• on clayey ones, where it is necessary to remove the impermeable layer, the recess should be larger.

On small areas usually performed excavation manually, and large areas It is worth using specialized equipment that can be rented.

The soil from the recess must be carefully selected. Soil can be moved to the site, especially if its volume is large, and transportation will require professional equipment. It is important to select all fertile layer soil, as it is very valuable and can be used to create flower beds and beds.

The bottom of the recess must be level, smooth and correct form– if we plan drainage in the form of a height difference, the bottom of the pit should be properly formed when planning the drainage. The difference should be about 1 - 2%. Once all the required soil layer has been selected, you can begin compacting the site.

Installation of curbs for paving slabs

To clearly define the course of the pavement surface and give it the desired stability and durability, you need to install curbs. The edges of the curb are fixed to a cement foundation. Curbs take a lot of load from the surface, so they should be installed very carefully and diligently. They are a frame that enhances the surface of the sidewalk. The edges should be planned so that their surface is flush with the surface of the tile. The transition from the surface to the curbs should be smooth. The size of the border, as well as the tiles, depends on the type of substrate, as well as on the nature of the use of the surface. Curbs can vary in thickness, height and strength.

Drainage installation

Drainage is installed on the prepared surface.

Water drainage can take two forms:

After the above work, you can begin preparing the substrate. This work takes place in several stages, depending on what kind of soil we have and what kind of surface we plan to create. Preparing the base can be done in several ways. The base consists of several layers:

• native soil;
• crushed stone;
• bedding, sometimes without a layer of crushed stone.
  

After removing the fertile layer, the soil is strengthened. For this purpose, remove the backing with a shovel, and then mix this layer with cement. Mixing is done using a rake. After completing this work, compaction is carried out using a manual or mechanical tamper.

Then they make the base. This is a layer that can consist of a mixture of screenings, gravel, crushed stone or clay, the thickness of which ranges from 5 cm and above - depending on the use of the sidewalk. Then base layer it is leveled, compacted and the bedding is scattered on it.

Which sand is best to work with? The backfill is usually fine sand or sand mixed with cement. This layer is not compacted, it is simply leveled and installation begins. Sand will compensate for any possible curvature of the path, which should not be too large! Depending on the type of paving slabs - stone or concrete, and also depending on the type of substrate, these steps differ from each other, which will be described below.

Laying paving slabs should begin after opening all packages. This will avoid possible color differences between products from different batches. When laying the sidewalk, you should use elements from each package.

Laying tiles with your own hands - video

Laying stone paving slabs and paving stones

Stone paving slabs are used in open areas and in private households, both for roads and on sidewalks, ramps or platforms. It looks very stylish and elegant, and works well in households decorated in both classic and modern styles. You can find stone tiles in the market that vary in size, thickness and shape.

Stone paving stones

Stone sidewalks require the use of stone curbs. Sometimes they also work well with curbs made of cobblestones, which, like others, must be attached to a concrete base. The base for paving stones is gravel, screenings or a mixture of both. A layer of fine sand is poured onto such a base and then the paving stones are laid. If the soil is permeable and you plan to use it for walking paths or driving with light loads, then you can abandon the gravel layer and lay stone paving stones on a layer of sand 5 cm to 20 cm thick.

Stone paving stones are laid 2 cm above the level. After laying, each element is driven in with a rubber hammer, then the cracks are filled with fine-grained sand, sweeping it into the cracks. This arrangement is ideal for patterns such as waves, fans or circles.

If you plan to lay long stone cobblestones in a pattern with lines, you may need a base in the form of crushed stone 17 - 23 cm thick. A layer of sand is poured onto it and then laying is carried out.

Stone tiles

Stone paving is most often used in pedestrian areas and the process is similar to the paving stone installation above. The tiles are laid on sand, a layer of which is 15 cm thick - on permeable soil. An area with impermeable soil where water stagnates is not very good decision. Therefore, in this case, two layers will be used as a foundation: the first (which is deeper) - gravel mixture, i.e. a mixture of sand and gravel of various fractions (15 cm thick), and the next layer is sand in a layer having a thickness of 2 - 3 cm.

If we lay large tiles, you don't always need to use curbs. To stabilize the entire structure, cementitious fixation can be used.

Concrete paving stones today is the most popular solution for sidewalks, primarily because of its attractive price, and also thanks to good technical parameters And large selection options. Unfortunately, sometimes due to excessive patterns and colors in the composition, we get an ugly, tasteless and tacky result. Therefore, when choosing paving stones, it is important to think carefully about the design of the sidewalk or area with which it will be paved.

Concrete paving stones are currently produced in four thicknesses: 4 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 10 cm.

Depending on the purpose, different material thicknesses are chosen:

• 4 cm – for sidewalks or decorative strips around the building;
• 6 cm – for areas with low load (pedestrian and light transport roads for cars weighing up to 3.5 tons);
• 8 cm – for street roads and parking lots;
• 10 cm – roads for heavy vehicles, buses and other heavy-duty vehicles.

Most often, concrete paving stones are produced in various colors. There are exquisite options, the surface of which is decorated with crumbs, and the texture can be more decorative. There are also products that are deliberately aged or stylized, hence their great popularity.

The advantages of this material include relatively simple assembly, dismantling or repairing any damage. Concrete cubes are also very resistant to stress, abrasion or external factors.

Concrete paving stones

This type of coating is laid in accordance with the type of substrate and the purpose of the surface (pedestrian, driveway):

The paving stones should be placed 1.5 cm above the level, the joints should be about 2-3 mm. The seams are filled with sand and the surface is wetted so that it settles. This is repeated until the seams are completely filled. Then the surface is cleaned and, if necessary, compacted with a vibrating plate plastic cover.

Paving stones have many advantages, which is why they are often used as paving paths and sidewalks in private homes.

Paving slabs today are produced in large quantities, which is facilitated by the development of mini-productions. Thanks to this, paving slabs are becoming more accessible and popular: today, most paths on personal plots and the sidewalks near the cottages are paved with it. But before you start landscaping the area adjacent to your house, you need to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly.

Laying paving slabs

Paving slabs are also called paving stones. She most often has rectangular shape. There are many installation schemes. Most often, the most traditional ones are used: post, herringbone, brickwork.

Paving stones are attractive because they are easy to lay, so they are used for landscaping paths of any type. Areas where several colors of material are used look especially good.

Tiles can last a very long time if correct installation. The base for the paving stones should be a cushion of sand and crushed stone. It can be installed in any case, regardless of the chosen installation method: mortar or dry mix.

In order to further strengthen the base, a concrete screed is placed on top of it.

Technology for laying paving slabs

The type of base (crushed stone or concrete) depends on the thickness of the tiles and the requirements for the material. First of all, the turf is removed from the laying area to a depth of at least 15 cm. The area is cleared of roots, debris and plant seeds. After this, the site is subjected to longitudinal and transverse planning, taking into account the slope necessary for the drainage of rain and melt water. If necessary (for example, in the case of clay soil).

The next action is tamping or rolling the area: any of the following is suitable for this known methods. To lay the curb, grooves are dug. After this, a five-centimeter sand cushion. A side stone (curb) is installed in the grooves, and liquid concrete is also poured in a small amount.

In order to avoid deformation of the paved area during operation, roadbed covered with geotextile, which uses 2 layers of black mulching material such as Agrotex, Spandbond or Agril. This is especially important in slightly heaving soils.

Medium-fraction crushed stone (5...20 mm) is poured onto the bottom of the site in a layer of 20 cm: this is necessary where vehicles can enter. Water is poured directly from above and compaction is performed. It is enough to cover non-heaving soil with a 15-centimeter layer of moistened coarse sand. The following options are possible here.

1. Filling with moistened sand and then leveling it using a lath.
2. Moistening the sand, rolling it, leveling and laying reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 50×50 (the bond is not used). Then a dry mixture 3...4 cm thick is poured over the mesh with further moistening.
3. Placed on crushed stone without compaction cement mortar 2...3 cm thick. Sand is also not poured in. The solution is prepared from M150 cement in the proportion: 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. In some cases, tile adhesive can be used: the increase in price is justified by greater strength and reliability. In this case, the glue is applied to a concrete screed with a thickness of 5 ... 10 cm.

The paving stones are laid on the finished pad, after which they are compacted using a vibrating plate or mallet. It is necessary to observe the level of laying the tiles and form the profile of the path immediately. A slight slope towards the edges from the center is mandatory: this is necessary for water drainage. After this, the dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto the tiles and distributed along its seams. Then the excess mixture is swept out with a brush and the paving slabs are watered with water, which must penetrate into all the cracks and seams. After some time the mixture will harden.

Some nuances and tricks

When purchasing paving stones, you should take into account the waste generated during pruning. The amount of waste depends on the method of laying paving slabs, as well as on their shape. For example, when laying diagonally, waste increases compared to laying parallel.

If it is necessary to split the tile, it should first be cut with a grinder. That is, just cut, and not saw it completely. This method helps prevent the formation large quantity dust generated during cutting.

The tiles, laid on a concrete base with a reinforced pad, are able to withstand the weight of a heavy vehicle (including a truck). It is necessary to select the thickness of the tile depending on the conditions of its use: thinner ones are intended for pedestrian paths, and thicker ones for roadways (entrance to a garage, parking lot). However, in any case, the preparation of the base should be taken seriously, and the technology for laying tiles should be strictly followed: the service life of your path or site depends on this.

Video with site preparation.