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Openly located communications and control instruments in the bathroom reduce the aesthetics of the room, so they try to hide them in boxes or closed niches, trimmed with the same tiles as the room. At the same time, access to hidden mechanisms is provided by installing secret hatches in the partitions.

The first examples of such devices were made of plastic and did not include ceramic finishing, so the hatches, hiding the highways, stood out on the tiled surface. After improvement, viewing devices began to be produced from reinforced plastic or metal, which increased their rigidity and made possible finishing hatches with tiles.

Aluminum hatch AluKlik Revizor

Modern plumbing hatches - “invisible”, offered by manufacturers are high-quality products various designs and sizes, in which special hidden hinges and locks of several types are used, for example, aluminum hatches for AluKlik Revizor tiles or steel Charcon inspection devices. Accordingly, the price of such devices, depending on the dimensions and used technical solutions, varies from two to several tens of thousands of rubles, and the cost of installation can be even higher.

It is difficult to make a hatch on your own that is not inferior in quality to commercially available finished products. However, if it is necessary to install a viewing device irregular shape or optimize the traditional design, having the skills to perform plumbing installation work and knowing the technology, it’s still possible to make a hatch under the tiles with your own hands.

To make an inspection hatch for a bathroom yourself, consider the following details and technologies:

• requirements for the viewing device;
• hatch designs;
• production of components;
• hatch assembly - “invisible”.

Requirements for the viewing device

An “invisible” inspection hatch in a bathroom, regardless of design, must meet the following requirements:

• functionality - the dimensions and format of the hatch must ensure the possibility of servicing equipment hidden behind the partition;
• strength and rigidity - for long-term trouble-free operation and safety of the ceramics laid on it;
• tightness - in order to protect hidden communications and devices from open contact with water in the bathroom;
• thermal and sound insulation of the sash - to prevent the formation of condensation on outer surface doors and noise reduction from water movement (in the sewer riser);
• aesthetics - concealment in a closed position and arrangement of internal surfaces.

Invisible inspection hatch provides quick access to utilities

Failure to meet even one of the listed requirements will lead to a loss of aesthetics of the bathroom cladding and problems with technical condition hidden equipment.

All inspection hatches, regardless of type, consist of a frame frame, a flap (door) with special hinges and a locking device. To ensure a tight connection between the door and the frame, a sealing gasket made of rubber or caoutchouc is installed, and the concealment of the hatch on the lining of the walls or floor of the bathroom is achieved by finishing front side sashes with ceramic tiles.

Manufacturers of “invisible” hatches offer three types of inspection devices:

• hinged - hatches with one or two doors, which, when opened manually, move the entire area away from the wall or floor, and then swing open on hinges;
• sliding - inspection windows with a manually retractable door that then moves parallel to the wall;
• push-action – structures that open and close when you press the sash, under which there is a lock with a spring-type mechanism.

Floor hatches are made of aluminum or steel of a certain thickness

From listed types for secret hatches installed in the bathroom, for making them yourself, it is more advisable to choose a hinged type of device, suitable for installation in the wall and floor, with affordable prices for components and relative simplicity self-installation.

Manufacturing of components

The material used to make the “invisible” hatch depends on the size of the viewing device and the capabilities of the performer. When the dimensions of the inspection window do not exceed the size of one or two tiles, the design of such a product can be simplified. If the dimensions of the hatch, and, consequently, its weight after finishing with tiles, are significant, it is unreasonable to save on materials.

Let's consider two options for manufacturing a viewing device:

• lightweight devices for small openings;
• fully equipped hatches.

Lightweight, small devices

An inspection hatch for arranging a small opening can be made without hinges. The role of the sash in this case will be played by ceramic tile, on the back side of which around the perimeter, depending on the size, you need to stick 4–6 fixing magnets. If the concealing partition in the bathroom is made of plasterboard, then to the opening in it with inside A steel frame of such size is attached with self-tapping screws that its edges protrude from the landing niche and serve as a counter part of the magnetic fastening.

Proper installation of the inspection hatch will solve the problem of access to hidden systems drainage

The sharp edges of the steel frame in the opening are processed with a file for safety purposes.

The dimensions of the fixing magnets are selected (sharpened) in such a way that the front surface of the tile – the plug – is at the same level with the wall cladding. This hatch is opened using a removable suction cup handle. You can use such a device on the bathroom floor only in places without load on the “leaf”, for example, in the floor of a built-in closet.

If the partition is made of brick, then to fix the tiles - doors with magnets around the perimeter of the end of the opening, use self-tapping screws to fasten pieces of steel angle cut to size.

A standard inspection hatch can be made in two ways: from scrap materials, or using special components, copying the manufacturers’ technology. The choice of manufacturing method depends on the dimensions and degree of responsibility of the device, which are determined by the operating features of each specific “invisible” hatch. Let's look at both of these technologies.

Making an inspection hatch from scrap materials

The frame box is made of steel angle or profile rectangular section 60x40 or 50x30 mm in size, which are connected by electric welding followed by grinding the weld seams with a grinder. Then from the specified profile it is necessary to make the frame of the hatch flap, which should fit into the box with a gap of 2 mm on the sides.

The inspection hatches include a hinged door with a locking mechanism

A square steel bar is welded along the inner perimeter of the box so that the door in the closed position lies flush with the front plane of the box. Then the door is secured in the box on furniture hinges using metal screws, having previously cut out round landing slots for them in the door frame. The number of hinges depends on their quality and the weight of the sash.

Instead of furniture hinges you can use a more advanced mechanism for opening doors without handles (Push to open), or a push system. The price of a set of this fittings is much higher, but it is justified by the design advantages.

A sheet of OSB (oriented strand board), the dimensions of which should cover the hatch frame, is attached to the manufactured frame of the sash using self-tapping screws.

Before installation, OSB must be treated with a hydrophobic composition to protect it from moisture.

To secure the closed door in the box, a system of furniture magnets or a ready-made lock of one of the types offered by manufacturers is used.

Manufacturing an inspection hatch from ready-made components

Unlike devices made using improvised means, only special fittings are used when assembling these hatches. As a rule, when making such a device yourself, you use drawings or a working sample of the product.

The frame and frame of the hatch flap are manufactured using the technology described above. Then an aluminum sheet 3-4 mm thick, the size of which should cover the frame, is attached to the frame of the sash using self-tapping screws or rivets.

Based on the operating characteristics and location of the hatch, select the type of hinges and locking device. The product is assembled and components are adjusted according to the instructions for the fittings, after which the steel structural elements are coated with two layers of anti-corrosion paint.

Conclusion

Independent production of a wall or floor inspection hatch that is not inferior in quality to finished products is complex work that requires professional skills. But make an inspection window with your own hands simplified design, capable of satisfying the needs of monitoring hidden equipment in the bathroom, with knowledge of manufacturing technologies is quite realistic and economically justifiable.

If the house has a cellar, you need to make an entrance to it. This could be a door or a hatch. As a rule, in private homes the choice is made in favor of the second option. Next, let's look at how to equip do-it-yourself cellar hatch. Drawing the design, or more precisely, how to compose it, will also be described in this article.

Relevance of the issue

There is no point in arguing about the benefits of a cellar in the house. He not only acts as utility room, increasing the area of ​​the house, but also ensures that the floor of the first floor is always dry and warm. Its arrangement, however, requires considerable investment. In addition, you must have certain skills and knowledge of building codes.

Those owners of private houses who have sufficient quantity funds, entrust the arrangement of the cellar and its entrance to professionals. Other owners prefer to do the work themselves.

Usually, basement provided for by the project. Accordingly, at the design stage the location of the hatch into the cellar is determined. It should be arranged so that the lid does not interfere with walking or touch furniture. It is important to consider appearance hatch to the cellar. Lid should be made of a material that is in harmony with the surrounding environment. Before starting work, it is necessary to think through the details and take into account the nuances.

Features of drawing up a hatch into the cellar

When drawing up a diagram, you should determine:

• The place where the hatch will be located. As mentioned above, the lid should not interfere with movement around the room and should not touch surrounding objects.
• Optimal cellar hatch dimensions. Minimum internal parameters 75x75 cm.
• The material from which the hatch will be made. It should be light but durable.
• Materials for thermal insulation and ensuring the tightness of the structure.

Floor hatch to the cellar often equipped with a smooth opening/closing system. In houses where there are small children and animals, a fixing device is also provided.

To prevent unauthorized access to the cellar, the hatch can be equipped with an electric drive.

Material selection

It depends on a variety of factors. When choosing, the material from which the walls of the house are made is taken into account.

For example, in wooden structures, boards and sheets of plywood are used for the cellar hatch. Cut according to drawing required sizes, treated with special impregnations. Within a few days, the composition should be completely absorbed into the wood. After this, the actual installation begins.

The cellar hatch can also be metal. To install it you will need:

• Steel sheets with a thickness of 0.5-1 and 3-4 mm.
• Angle 40 or 50 mm.
• Door hinges.
• Styrofoam.
• Rubber compressor.
• Grinder and cutting wheels.
• Primer.
• Welding machine.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Drill with drills.

How to install a cellar hatch with your own hands?

As mentioned above, the first thing to do is to draw up a drawing. It is necessary to calculate everything accurately so as not to redo the work.

Before that, you need to prepare the material and tools. The blanks are cut according to the drawing and the support is installed. It is attached to the flooring.

The edge of the shield must be treated with longitudinal slats. Insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam) is placed in the sheathing.

After the main activities have been completed, it begins external finishing. Typically, the material from which the floor is made is used.

Nuances

If you have the materials and tools, you can make the blanks yourself. However, as a rule, owners turn to metal depots. In workshops you can order blanks according to individual sizes.

When choosing steel sheet for a metal hatch, it is necessary to take into account that its size should be larger than the size of the manhole and slightly overlap it.

The corners must be placed at a distance of 5-10 mm from the edge. Stiffening ribs should be installed in the center of the structure.

Welding of parts is done without gaps. The finished cover is cleaned and primed.

It is necessary to lay insulation in the internal voids. It is covered with plywood or another steel sheet.

The hatch is installed on the hinges using anchors.

Don't forget about the seal. He will provide protection flooring and additional insulation.

For installation you can use door hinges, if the hatch is made of lightweight material(trees, for example). For a heavy metal structure, it is better to choose more reliable hinges.

Smooth ride

It makes it much easier to use hatch to the cellar. With shock absorbers The lid will close smoothly, which will prevent injury. When installing the mechanism, you must keep the cover open.

You can make the lid move smoothly different ways. One of the most popular is the use of spring hinges used in car hoods. Such option will do for light metal or wooden hatches. The fastening must be carried out so that the lid can be opened perpendicular to the floor.

Another option is gas shock absorbers. They are used if the manhole cover is heavy. In stores you can find various shock absorbers of different capacities, suitable for any design.

Pen

It is usually made folding or hidden. Some craftsmen cut a recess in the lid. Removable handles are also a common option. They have one important advantage: the hatch cannot be opened by small children.

When making a hatch with your own hands, it is advisable to use simple inexpensive options that do not involve working with metal products.

Electric drive

As mentioned above, this mechanism prevents unauthorized access to the cellar by strangers. There are several ways to install the electric drive. Let's consider the simplest option.

For installation you need:

• Electric motor.
• Duralumin pipes.
• Sheets of steel.
• Welding machine.
• Grinder with cutting wheels.
• Cable.
• Current source.

The mechanism is installed directly on the lid. In this case, it is recommended to leave some margin for opening the hatch (that is, the lid should open slightly less than 90 degrees).

The mechanism operates quite simply. The signal is sent using remote control, rotation begins in the system, and accordingly, the lid begins to move. Lifting is provided by a rod. You can also close the hatch using the remote control.

Retractable system

To install it you will need:

• Steel sheets 5 mm thick.
• Two electric motors.
• Metal rollers.
• Three position switch.
• Current source.
• Cable.

This design is more complicated than described above. However, it allows you to make the hatch cover almost invisible. The entire mechanism is located under it and does not take up much space.

Hatch for tiles

As in all previous cases, a drawing is developed. It displays the following parameters:

• Box dimensions (width, length).
• The thickness of the opening and frame.
• Loop locations.

Before installation cellar hatch for tiles a level base is created. A screed is used for this. Alignment is carried out in several stages:

• The level of the floor covering is determined. In this case, you should take into account the thickness of the tile (about 8 mm), as well as the adhesive layer (about 4 mm).
• The solution is prepared, the beacons are set.
• The opening of the future hatch is flanged. In this case, you need to leave 10 cm around the perimeter to support the lid.

The screed is performed using standard technology. After the solution has hardened, the hatch is tried on. It is applied to the opening. At this stage, it is recommended to pre-lay out the tiles.

The cladding begins from the corner of the wall, which is located in plain sight. Trimming and laying tiles when finishing the opening begins after installing the frame for the hatch cover.

Finishing

The ends are designed in a certain order. It is necessary to perform the following steps step by step:

• Attach the frame to the niche and level it using a building level.
• Existing gaps between metal frame and the screed must be filled with mortar. For its preparation, cement grade M-500 is used. The solution must completely harden.
• Trim the tiles and cover the remaining area around the opening.
• The slopes of the niche must be leveled. To do this, beacons are installed, cement mortar is applied and leveled.
• The slopes are tiled.
• Before the glue dries, it is recommended to fix the tiles with tape and place demarcating crosses.

Installation and lining of the cover

The hatch can be installed on hinges or using any of the mechanisms described above. After securing the cover, you can begin finishing it. If the floor covering is tile, then it can also be laid on the hatch. In general, as practice shows, the most different materials. The main thing is that the appearance of the hatch is in harmony with the interior design. At the same time, of course, we should not forget about the technology of laying this or that material.

IN wooden houses hatches are usually not finished. They are simply covered on top with linoleum or other covering.

Conclusion

In general, making a cellar hatch yourself is not difficult. The main difficulties may arise at the design stage and during sizing calculations. At these stages, you need to take into account many nuances, including the expected load on the lid, the frequency of visits to the cellar, its purpose, the features of the items that will be there, and much more. To store large items you need a large hatch.

It should be remembered that when tiling the hatch, its weight will increase significantly. Therefore, when preliminary calculations you need to determine the most suitable hinges or closing mechanism. We should not forget about the stiffeners. Their number will depend on the dimensions of the lid. Standard hatches of minimum size (75x75 cm) are provided with 1-2 stiffening ribs.

Particular attention must be paid to safety. It's about not only about operation, but also about installation of the structure. The opening will have to be kept open while the hatch is being installed. In this regard, if there are small children or animals in the house, access to the work site should be limited for them.

We should not forget about the insulation. If it is not placed in the structure, heat will escape through the lid. It will also help prevent heat loss. In addition, it will soften the contact between the cover and the frame.

The basement not only serves to store food, but also acts as a utility room in which certain things are stored. The vast majority of modern basements are planned in such a way that the entrance to it is either invisible or decoratively decorated in accordance with the stylistic design of the door.

Peculiarities

Today there are many options ready-made structures cellar hatches various types. Installation can be carried out independently, depending on the complexity of the chosen design and the skills of the buyer.

Hatch doors are divided into three types and classified according to the method of opening.

1. Swing. The operating principle is similar to conventional front door– on one side the cover is fixed with hinges, and on the opposite side a lock or simple latch is mounted.
2. Removable. These models are the most budget-friendly and easiest to install. This door is simply placed on top of the hatch opening.
3. Sliding. This option is more applicable for an outdoor cellar. The principle of their operation is to move the door along guides.

The finishing of hatches also has a number of features suitable for laminate, floor tiles or linoleum. If the floors of the house are made of natural wooden materials without additional coatings, the choice of finishing material for the hatch cover is obvious. If there is any complex finishing material, it is better to make a choice in favor of aluminum and steel structures. Their appearance is similar to shallow rectangular container. Upon completion of installation work, its frame is filled concrete mortar, and the completely dry surface is covered with the required flooring finish.

Making and insulating a cellar with a staircase in a private house with your own hands is not at all difficult if you follow the recommendations of specialists. Don’t forget to choose the right curtains for the device, a lifting mechanism, an easy-lift manhole, and multi-lever elements.

There must be a hidden handle and a suitable lifting mechanism, as well as finished decorative elements.

Drawings and designs

When drawing up a drawing, several factors must be taken into account.

1. The location of the cellar hatch, which is selected so as not to impede free movement in the room and not to affect surrounding objects.
2. The most suitable hatch size in accordance with the required parameters. Minimum size for comfortable use it is 75 by 75 cm.
3. The material from which the hatch is made. It must meet high strength, but at the same time have minimal weight.
4. Materials that will ensure tightness and thermal insulation of this structure.

Floor hatch covers for cellars are often equipped with additional smooth running systems. If there are small children or animals in the house, fixing devices are provided. To avoid easy access to the cellar, the hatch is equipped with an electric drive.

Design principles for additional functions

Smooth operation is designed to make the hatch easier to operate. Its lid is equipped with shock absorbers, which ensures smooth closing to prevent injury. When installing such a mechanism, the cover must be open. There are several ways to equip the lid with a smooth operation.

• The most popular is spring, which uses spring hinges, like a car hood. It is suitable for lightweight hatch structures made of metal or wood. The door fixation is positioned so that it opens perpendicular to the floor.
• And also apply gas shock absorbers. Used for hatches with heavy doors.

As a rule, such hatches are equipped with folding, hidden or removable handles. The advantages of such options are preventing children from entering the basement. In the case of self-production, it is better to use simple, inexpensive options that do not require the use of metal products.

Electric drive structures. The electric drive is installed in several ways. For installation itself simple option you will need:

• electric motor;
• duralumin pipes;
• steel sheets;
• welding machine;
• grinder with cutting wheels;
• cable;
• current source;
• three position switch.

For full operation of the mechanism, the hatch cover must open less than 90 degrees. It is driven by a rotation system, opening or closing the lid using a rod. Control is carried out by remote control.

The retractable system is more complex, but allows you to make the hatch cover almost invisible. Its installation will require:

• steel sheets 5 mm thick;
• two electric motors;
• metal rollers;
• three-position switch;
• current source;
• cable.

A hatch for floor tiles requires the development of a drawing that shows the parameters:

• width and length of the hatch box;
• frame and opening thickness;
• loop location

Installation of such a hatch requires a level base, so a leveling screed is poured before its installation. To do this, you need to perform several operations:

• Determine the level of the floor covering, taking into account the thickness of the tiles and adhesive layer of approximately 12 mm.
• Prepare the solution and set up the beacons.
• Bead the opening for the future hatch, leaving about 100 mm around its perimeter for support for the cover.
• After the solution has hardened, preliminary fitting of the hatch is carried out.
• Tiling should begin from a corner located in a visible place. The finishing of the opening occurs after installing the frame for the hatch cover.

To design the ends, you must follow the following procedure:

• install the frame, leveling it, guided by the building level;
• fill all existing gaps between the frame and the screed with the solution;
• after the mortar has completely hardened, the tiles are laid in the area around the opening, with the necessary adjustments and trimming of the tiles, for this purpose beacons are installed, then the cement mortar is poured and leveled;
• slopes are also tiled, up to completely dry adhesive layer, it is recommended to fix the tiles with tape, having previously installed demarcating crosses.

The procedure for installing and lining the manhole cover

The hatch is installed on hinges using any of the above mechanisms. Then the finishing of the fixed lid begins. To do this, you can use floor tiles or other finishing material. The main requirement is that its appearance is in harmony with the rest of the room design.

In wooden houses, hatches are usually not finished, but simply covered with linoleum or other material. For example, you can use laminate.

How to do it?

For achievement visual effect in the absence of a cellar hatch, its covering must fully correspond to the covering of the entire floor. That is, if it is wood, then the hatch cover should be made of the same wood. Or if it is parquet, then the hatch should look the same.

Standard cellar hatch. The hatch cover is made with a slight reduction in size so that it fits completely into the opening of the basement passage. The resulting gaps should not exceed 5 mm. First of all, to wooden flooring four timber supports are nailed down, which will serve as a support for the lid. Floorboard blanks are made 80 cm long. Then a square of 79 by 79 cm is cut out of plywood. A gap of 1 cm is placed between the hatch and the floor, this helps prevent deformation from moisture and temperature changes.

The sheathing of the inside of the hatch is done with short slats or slats 79 cm long. Parts made of wood must be covered with at least one layer of drying oil. This is done to protect them from exposure to moisture and fungus.

The height of the hatch must correspond to the rough and final coating and consist of three layers:

1. a plywood sheet on which a lathing of slats is stuffed;
2. insulation is placed in the space between the slats;
3. onto the slats, fixing the insulation, stuffed finishing layer from the board;

It is better to nail the top layer parallel to the floorboard. This design is lightweight, so it is suitable for mounting on regular hinges on the basement side with a gas closer. A plastic box has its advantages, but is more expensive.

The thickness of this entire structure must correspond to the thickness of the floorboard.

A metal structure should be stronger than a wooden one. Making a lid for it yourself is problematic. To make it, a base is cut out of a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. Along the perimeter of the base from the inside using welding machine The corners on which the stiffeners are attached are welded. There is insulation between them.

The entire total area of ​​the lid is divided into 4 equal parts. When working with metal, it is necessary to clean all seams. The width of the insulation must fully correspond to the width of the corner. The insulation layer is fixed on top with a sheet of steel or tin using self-tapping screws. To make the entrance frame, the corner is cut into fragments according to the size of the hatch opening. Next, the corners are welded to each other and fixed to the concrete with anchors; one of the sides of the frame will act as a support for the hatch. A seal is attached to its protrusion to retain heat and protect it from excessive friction. The cover itself is connected to the entrance frame using reinforced hinges with a gas closer. Floor tiles ideal for finishing the kitchen.

Almost every owner of a private house builds a basement in his own home for storing canned goods, vegetables from the garden and other products. A reliable hatch into the basement allows you to provide reduced temperature And optimal humidity in the cellar. Often the entrance is located on the floor in the kitchen or hallway of the house.

The access to the cellar can be closed either with a full door or with a floor hatch. The second option is more acceptable, since floor hatches save living space. The entrance to the basement should fit into the interior of the house and not stand out as a rectangular spot on the floor. An invisible floor hatch can hide the existence of a cellar from prying eyes. Such doors completely merge with the flooring in the room; often they do not even have handles or hinges installed on them.

Most hatches have rectangular shape, although if desired, you can install a semicircular door to the basement. In addition, the cover material varies. Doors are made of wood, plywood or metal.

Technical requirements

The choice of location for installing the manhole must be made based on following rules:

1. The entrance should be located in an inconspicuous place, but not near a wall. This requirement is due to the fact that the perpendicular surface will prevent the hatch doors from opening.
2. If the entrance to the basement is located in the kitchen, then it should be in a place where it is not planned to install any kitchen furniture. Open lid the hatch should not touch tables, cabinets and furniture elements.
3. The door leaf must support the weight of a person. It is best to strengthen it with additional iron partitions or a frame.

The hatch in the floor must have dimensions that will correspond to the dimensions of the owner. The minimum area of ​​such a hole is 75x75 cm. With a smaller opening, lowering and removing food from the basement will be extremely problematic. It is worth immediately considering the shape and location of the handle.

The entrance to the cellar is equipped with special supports, on which shutters are subsequently installed. For safety, it is better to attach at least four posts.

The hole must be hermetically sealed, otherwise cold air will leak into the living space. In addition, the weight of the manhole cover should be taken into account. If it turns out to be too heavy, then it is equipped with special springs or an electric drive for more convenient operation.

Design Features

To attach a hatch to enter the basement, you can use ordinary door hinges. These are reliable fasteners that require a minimum of effort and cost. It is advisable to use them only for light wooden covers.

Another way to organize the entrance is to use hood hinges from the car in the hatch design. Spring-loaded latches allow you to secure the door in a stable position. Thanks to the lifting mechanism without special effort even a fairly heavy door opens.

Metal structure the door makes it not only strong, but also prohibitively heavy. In this case, the hinges must have shock absorbers. In addition, you can build something like a safe door using an electric motor and several aluminum pipes. But such a cover can only be opened if the engine is connected to a source of electricity.

Operation and care

The basement door requires periodic maintenance as it is exposed to strong temperature changes and exposure to high humidity. About once a year, the hatch hinges and shock absorbers should be thoroughly lubricated.

On wooden door From time to time, solutions are applied that repel moisture and prevent the development of fungus. The metal hatch should be cleaned of rust and painted.

How to choose material and type of construction

When constructing an entrance to the basement, the door material is selected based on its location. If the hole is installed in the corridor, and people will walk along it every day, then the cover is made of sheet metal to ensure reliability and safety.

If the choice of installation location falls on a remote corner of the kitchen, then you can make a door made of wood. This option is suitable if parquet is laid on the floor or wooden plank.

In respect of design features It’s difficult to give universal advice. The most important thing is that the hatch cover does not interfere with movement around the room, supports the weight of the owners and does not attract attention.

Making a basement hatch with your own hands

To make your own wooden basement hatch with shock absorbers, we will need:

• saw;
• hammer;
• brush;
• screwdriver.

Necessary materials:

1. flooring boards;
2. timber for supports;
3. plywood;
4. nails, screws;
5. hinges with shock absorbers and handle.

All work is performed in the following order:

• First, from the side of the manhole, supports are nailed to the flooring of boards on which the lid will rest.
• By using circular saw saw the boards into blanks, the length of which will be 0.5-1 cm less than the width of the hatch box.
• A rectangle is cut out of plywood. Here you need to subtract 1 cm for the gaps between the door and the floor.
• All wooden parts covered with drying oil, which repels moisture and prevents the development of fungus.
• Laths for sheathing are stuffed onto a layer of plywood. A layer of insulation should be placed between the slats. Boards are attached on top of the slats.

It is important that the height of the hatch matches the height of the floor. It is advisable to select a material that will match the width and thickness of the boards laid on the floor. The manufacture of hatches of this design does not require large expenses or experience in construction.

Size calculation

Drawings of the entrance to the basement are drawn up individually. It is recommended to follow the standards when calculating the dimensions of the manhole.

Optimal size the hatch is 80x80 cm. In this case, the doors should be no more than 79x79 cm. plywood sheet It is better to choose a thickness of at least 10 mm, and a layer of wood - 25 mm. To make a metal hatch, you should use 1-3 mm sheet steel.

Features of installation under tiles

The best way hiding the hatch in the cellar is disguising it as tiles. For this purpose, the manhole cover is made in a special way.

A blank corresponding to the size of the hatch is cut out of sheet steel. Along its perimeter, corners are welded to form the sides. Reinforcement is welded inside the walls to form cells for the tiles. After installing the hatch, the solution is poured onto the fittings. Tiles are laid on top.

You can provide access to communications hidden under the tiles by making an inspection hatch with your own hands and installing it on the wall. This will reduce installation costs and will not take much more time compared to choosing a ready-made structure.

Installation of special plumbing hatches is required, first of all, in bathrooms and bathrooms. They provide access to communications, meters, filters, control units and even water heaters hidden behind tiles walls or, in rare cases, floors. With the help of such structures, which fit perfectly into the interior, it is easy to check the condition of pipes and water meters and replace them. Making an inspection hatch with your own hands is not difficult, although to do this you should know the specifics of manufacturing and installation.

What is an invisible hatch?

There are two types of inspection hatches. The usual option is affordable and easy to install, but is noticeable on the wall. Invisible hatches are not noticeable, but require more time and experience to install. can be purchased by choosing from a range of well-known manufacturers (Praktik, Hago and Lukeland). But it is more profitable to make a plumbing hatch with your own hands, disguising it with tiles; it will be much cheaper.

Selection of tools and materials

In order to make and install a hatch under the bathroom yourself, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Push-to-open mechanism, which allows door opening without handles;
• moisture-resistant plasterboard (except for options with brick or concrete wall) and plywood;
• wooden beam;
• reinforced mesh;
• PVA glue and tile adhesive;
• the ceramics itself is the size of the entire surface for cladding, since its installation will be carried out immediately after installing the hatch;
• drill and screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• tape measure and pencil.

The material for the door and hatch itself can be plywood, chipboard or OSB - it all depends on the number of tiles glued to it. The more ceramics, the stronger the structure should be. The most stable option is oriented strand board, while plywood is suitable if the door is designed to only accommodate one tile. When choosing OSB, the thickness of the opening part of the hatch must be at least 12 mm.

Creating a frame and door

After selecting the materials for making the frame and door, measurements are taken to determine their dimensions and the location of the hatch is planned. It is advisable to install it in such a way that it is easy to get to. If the location of the hatch is possible only in hard to reach places, it is worth considering a non-usual swing structure doors, but a hinged one (if there are obstacles at a distance of less than 120 mm from the hatch) or a sliding one.

It is recommended to choose a door size that is a multiple of the cladding elements. For ceramics with a width and height greater than 25–30 cm, homemade inspection hatches for the meter can be the same size as one tile. And to access key communications, a door of at least 400x600 mm should be provided, the same area as 4 standard 20x30 cm tiles. Big sizes do not always increase the ease of use of the hatch. And in order not to waste extra time and materials on the structure, it is not recommended to make it too high or wide.

Tip: Dimensions can also be selected according to the dimensions of the opening in a brick or concrete wall. Moreover, they may not coincide with the parameters of the tile, but the distance between the edges of the door and the ceramics glued to it should not be more than 5 cm on the side of the hinges and 7.5 cm on other sides.

In the process of planning the location and size of the door, it is necessary to take into account what material the enclosing structures are made of:

• if the basis for laying the tiles is concrete wall or brick, you should focus on the dimensions of the existing niche;
• mounting homemade hatches under the tiles in plasterboard, the opening is reinforced with a frame made of a metal profile.

Having decided on the size, you should choose the number and location of hinges for installing the door. For a regular hatch, two fasteners are enough. For a large one - three or four, located at a distance of at least 100 mm from each other and about 1-2 cm from the edges of the door.

Installation stages

You should start installing a bathroom inspection hatch with your own hands by creating a frame. For plasterboard walls the installation process is simplified, since the profiles that reinforce the opening can act as the frame of the structure. And the lining of the inner perimeter of the hatch is sheathed with strips of the same OSB from which it is made. When installing inside a more durable wall, wooden blocks are installed along the edges of the niche with communications or devices.

The next step is to install the hinges on the door, and their counterparts in the right places on the frame (but only on one screw). Next, it is necessary to carry out a test installation to determine the correct installation of the fasteners. The installed door must be in the same plane as brick wall or with drywall. In the second option, the hatch is tried on with the plasterboard part already glued. After checking, the mating parts of the hinges are finally secured with a second screw, the door is installed and its position is adjusted again.

The process of installing ceramics on a plumbing hatch under tiles with your own hands is as follows:

1. The outer part of the door is degreased and;
2. The wooden surface is smeared with PVA glue;
3. Glued on top plaster mesh(using a spatula);
4. After the glue has dried (at least 12 hours), an adhesive solution is prepared;
5. The tiles are glued onto a nylon mesh;
6. The installation of the remaining ceramics continues.

Advice: The tiles should continue to be laid from the inspection hatch. First, the row is completed to the end (or 2-3 rows in height), and then the laying under the door continues. Thus, the arrangement of the ceramics will not be disturbed, and the hatch will be invisible.

After installing the tiles on the wall on the sides of the door, the location of the hatch relative to the plane of the wall is additionally checked. If it protrudes or, conversely, is too recessed inward, you can once again adjust the position of the fasteners. And in order to simplify the adjustment, the push system is installed last.

Video on how to make a homemade plumbing hatch yourself